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eIOH:N" ITKANCIS GAI^AUP BK X.A FlEKOUSE
f/>!^/^^V^ /y tJ/.^yafc^^A/ey
THE VOYAGE
OP
LA PÉROUSE
ROUND THE WORLD,
IN THE YEARS 1785, 1780, 1787, AND 1788,
WITH THE NAUTICAL TABLES.
Arranged by M. L. A. MILET MUREAU,
Infpeftor of Fortifications and Member of feveral literary Societies at Paris.
»«>4>e«
TO WHICH IS PREFIXED,
NARRATIVE OF AN INTERESTING
VOYAGE FROM MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE,
AND ANNEXED,
TRAVELS OVER THE CONTINENT,
With the Difpatches of La Péroufe in 1737 and 1788,
BY M. DE I ESSEPS.
TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH.
Illujîrated with Fifty-one Plates^,
> IN TWO VOLUMES. .
VOL. I.
^HINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, PICCADILLYt
1798.
c
4^
Mo
\l
«^^/.{yv-^iî• C^« > ^. ; A^rf • ?>'"^^3) .~jv^^> ( * ^vj
THE
TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE.
^••»^«4
NAVIGATION, the moft important bond
of the great fbciety of mankind, has in
the prefent age been advanced nearly to perfec-
tion. It has been employed for purpofes the
moft honourable to its patrons, to its condudors,
and to human nature, and its narratives have ex-
cited a more univerfal intercft than any other
branch of literature. It has perfcàl:ed the hiftory
of man, united the extremities of the earth in
the mutual intercourfe of peaceful commerce,
and notwithftanding the temporary ftorms of re-
volution, has chara<5lerifed the prefent century as
its peculiar asra.
Englifhmen, who have fo much to boaft
among contending nations, will proudly remem-
ber that Cook ftands in the higheft rank both as
a navigator, and a bcnefaiftor of his fpecics :
while France, our conftant competitor, whether
in difcovery, in commerce, or in the arts, has at-
tempted to rival us even at the extremity of the
A 2 globe,
THE TRANSLATORS PREFACE.
globe. With that fplrit of emulative ambi-
tion which has ever marked her charadcr, Ihe
planned the voyage detailed in the following
pages ; Ihe configned to the perils of the ocean
men of the dccpcft fcience, and moft brilliant
talents in France, and her vefTels failed with
an aufpicious promifc of the happieft fuccefs.
Their ill fated end is now but too ftrongly con-
firmed. Europe will deplore that an expedition,
which, like that of Cook, may be called a circum-
navigation of charity and benevolence, fhould fb
fatally terminate in the dcflru^ion of all who
embarked in it, and of a commander who feem-
cd to vie with his great prcdcceflbr in the vir-
tues and benevolences of a wife and prudent
chief. Honourable and candid in his rivalfliip,
he feems to exult in beflovving a juft tribute of
applaufe on him, whom he confiders as his
archetype, while his own narrative is modeft
pcrfpicipus, interelling, and important.
To a commercial nation, it is particularly de-
firablc to receive the earlieft and moft accurate
information of every geographical difcovery.
But while we regret that fcience and curiofity
have been fo long ungratified, and that the com-
piler of the narrative was not from among the
aftors in thefc novel fcenes, few of whom efcaped
the general cataftrophe ; it is fome confolation
that the original journal, as the Editor aflurcs us.
THE TRANSLATOR 3 PREFACE.
is moft faithfully adhered to, without ever
deviating from the fenfc and meaning of the
narrator. M. Millet Mureau appears to have
juftly conceived the duties of the undertaking,
and the execution docs honour to his tafte and
judgment. Verfed in the accounts of former
difcoveries, and the fcicnces allied to navigation,
he has illuftrated the work by many valuable
notes, for which, however, he is often indebted
to our countrymen Cook, Dixon, Portlock and
others ; and when he ventures to differ from the
opinion of his author, fubmits his own with a
candour entitled to applaufe.
In one inftance he has deviated from his ac-^
cuftomed liberality, in an unfounded fufpicion
of the veracity of Hearn. But this he retraits
in a preliminary difcourfe *. He conftantly pro-
fefles rather to colledl materials for the fpecula-
tion and enquiry of others, than to form iyftems
for himfelf, a pradice to which he declares him-
felf an enemy.
* Vide page xxxii. Where, as if it was his fate to wreak
all his calumny on an opponent invulnerably fecurc in the.
armour of integrity, honour, and fidelity, he aims an invidi-
ous attack at that gentleman, which the publication of his
narrative previous to the following pages, has rendered equal-
ly invalid with the former accufation, and muft again expofe
him to the fame humiliating recantation,
A 3 In
TH£ TRANSLATOR S PREFACE.
In reading the narratives of thofc who have
viiited favage nations, it is impoilible to avoid
contemplating with fclf-exultation, the fuperi-
ority of civilized Man over a Jîaie of nature^
which if it means any thing, fignifics a ftatc of
ignorance, where cunning and treachery almofl
univcrfally prevail. The mind is ftrengthened
by the cultivation of the arts and fciences ; Man
in fociety alone perceives the mutual advantage
of reciprocal good faith, and virtue flourifhes un-
der the banners of truth and general utility :
while the ignorance of the Indian, which renders
his pleafurcs uncertain and tranfient, is compen-
fated by no one fupcriority of enjoyment, either
mental or corporeal : nor does the moft finilh-
ed picture of favage life exceed a mere abicnce
of care, or that inaélive unintcrefting tranquillity
which civilization alone can render fecure.
To expatiate further on the utility of this ex-
pedition is unneceflary» The Public intereft and
curiofity, which ever anticipate works of this na-
ture, will not have been diminifhed by the un-
happy fate of La Péroufe, his paiTcngers and
crews.
Accuracy being no lefs important in a tranila-
tor than veracity in a traveller, the Engliih Edi-
tor has been folicitous rather to convey the true
meaning of his author, than to decorate his lan-
;; guage
;r/,r
I. i
THE TtlANSLATOR'i PREFACE.
guagc with graces foreign to the original. This
principle, itfelf fufRciently obvious, acquires ad-
ditional force from La Péroufe's exprefs defire ;
he wiftied, that to avoid facrificing fenfc to
found, as might happen in the unpoliftied phrafes
of the fea, and other technical terms, his narra-
tion, iliould it be publifhed without his infpec-
tion, might be committed to the care rather
of a feaman than a man of letters.
With this fimple declaration the Tranflator
would have fubmitted himfelf to the Public, had
not a competitor appeared, whofe agents, with
the petulance of ungenerous rivallhip, have mif-
reprefented his defign, and accufed him of muti-
lating the original. Had it been poffible fooner
to complete the work, this calumny could not
have been fupported for a moment; and the Au^
thor only laments, fmcercly laments, that the
Public in general have feldom the inclination or
the opportunity to enter into a comparifon of the
feparate merits of thoie who appear as candi-
dates for their favour. He is therefore unwil-
lingly compelled to urge his claim to their pro-
teélion, by ftating his defign and plan in the exe-
cution of the work.
Confidering the Narrative and Tables of the firft
importance, particularly to the man of fcience
and the navigator, he has given thele, together
: A 4 with
/
THE TRANSLATOR S PREFACE.
\vith all the memoirs and corrcrpondcncc in a
complete and accurate tranflation. The tables in
particular mull be viewed as the guide of future
navigators, the clue to conduél them through
the labyrmths of the South Sea Iflands, the bea-
con to warn them from rocks, and Ihoals, and
breakers, and to dircd their courfc through the
mifts of the ocean. To have omitted thefe, or
to have negle£lcd their accuracy, would have been
to endanger the lives of others, and render the
labour of navigators fruitlefs. Of the preliminary
papers, however, which are by no means equally
important or interefting, it appeared more dc-
firablc for every clafs of readers to perufc, at moft
a copious abridgment, comprifing every ufeful
information without the circumlocution and
redundancy, fo frequent in official papers. To
no Ens-lifliman could a detail of thcfc minu-
tia?, or voluminous catalogues of French names
compofmg tlic crews of the vcixcls have been
ufeful. It is with no fmall fatisfadlion that the
Editor has availed himfclf of the vacancy this
fuperfluous matter has alibrdcd, to introduce
a comprehcnfive abridgment of another ex-
pedition, that of M. de 1 vcifeps over-land to
Kamtfcliatka, which is no lefs intereftinsc in it-
felf thanby its conncilion with that of La Pc-
roufc, of the narrative of whofe voyage it feems
'■ '^' , . ;■'■-, ^
i..
p.
THE TRANSLATOR S PREFACE.
to form a part. A full and accurate tranflatîon
is alio i^ivcn of the voyage of the Spanifli navi-
gator Maurillo ; and the vvhc^le illuilrated by
additional notes of tlie Tranflator.
Of the Engravings, which arc numerous, little
need be faid. They are cafily compared, and
fcarcely need challenge comparifon to obtain the
moft decided preference. In the conditions of
publication yf9;*/y plates are promifed, but the en-
couragement fliewn to the work during its pro-
grefs, has induced the Publifiicr to encreafe their
number toffty-one.
It mull- be noticed, however, that many of
the original drawings having arrived in France
without corrcfponding defcriptions, arc fo pub-
liflied ; the French Editor having only ventured
to add an account of a plant from Chili, written
by M. Ventinat. In one place in particular the
figiu-cs have been numbered, though unaccom-
panied by any reference in the work.
r -i^ 1
LIST
/
• LIST OF PLATES* - V ,j
: ' '" " VOL. I. • >'':'*^v:, i,>Aîi^-:^H:t!^,';
■ 'liil PAGE
Portrait of La Péroufe, to front the Title.
Cliart of a Part of the Great Pacific Ocean - - _ cxv
Chart of the World 1
View of the Ifland of St. Catharine ------ 27
.Drefs of the Inhabitants of La Conception - - - - 53
Natives and Monuments of Eafter Ifland - - - - 70
Canoe of Eafter Ifland ---.--___- 75
Anchorge of the Frigates at Mowee ------91
Chart of the N. W. Coaft of America ----- i05
Wreck of the two Boats at Port des Français - - - 135
Canoe found at Port des Français (with the Skin ufed
inftead of Planks) --^----_-_ 145
Plan of Port des Français --------_i46
Blackbird of Port des Français --.---_i5o
Eftabliihment at Port des Français for the filhing Seafon 154-
Drcfs of the Inhabitants of Port des Français - - 156
Woman of Port des Français -------.15g
Canoe of Port des Français - - - - - - . -I6+
Partridge, Male and Female, of California - - - - 201
Promerops or Bee-eater of California - - _ _ . ihid.
Great Sea Urchins of the N. W. Coaft of America - 222
Echini Marini --------__-: 223
View of Macao ------_-___- 254
Chart of the Difcovcries in the Seas of China and
Tartary -----_-._--_._ 269
View of Cavita - ---------__ 271
Parao, a Pafl!àge Boat of Manilla ------ 272
Drefs of the Inhabitants of Manilla ------ ihïd.
LIST
LIST OF PLATE3.
VOL. II.
PAGE
Frontifpiece, reprefenting Navigation, to face the Title.
Sarambeau, a filhing Raft of Manilla ----- 5
Champan, a Chinefe Boat -------- 6
Boat of Formofa ------------17
Japanefe Boat ------------21
Japanefe Boat, front View --------23
Drefs of the Inhabitants of Langle Bay 44
Nifhani, Aoucantouroi and Erougantoi, Inhabitants of
Langle Bay ------------51
Canoe of the Orotchys ----------67
Drefs of the Inhabitants of Caftries Bay - - - - 68
Tombs in Caftries Bay ------.-- 70
Orotchys, Inhabitants of Caftries Bay ----- 72
Canoe of the Betchys ----------75
Canoe of Tchoka ----------- 90
View of Company's Land ---------93
View of St. Peter and St. Paul, at Kamtfchatka - - 138
Part of the Ifland of Maouna, and Plan of the Creek ^^
du Maflacre ---- ------- isi
Maflacre of Meflrs. de Langle, Lamanon, and ten
others ---- --------- 133
Plan and Views of Eafter Ifland ------- 248
Geometrical details of the Monuments of Eafter Ifland 254
Infers --- 280
Poulettes 324
Male Cotton Plant of Chili -- 440
Female Cotton Plant of Chili 442
Kamtfchadale Caravan (Leflcp's Travels) - - - - i
DIRECTION»
DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER
For placing the Letter-Prefs and PJateu
VOL. I. .
Title, Preface, Contents, Lift of Plates.
Compiler's Preface, and Preliminary Difcourfe.
Decrees of the Aflembly, and Preliminary Inftruftion».
Narrative of aii interefting Voyage from Manilla to Saint
Blaife.
Voyage round the World.
VOL. IL '[
Voyage round the AVorld.
Excurfion to TenerifFe, Supplementary Papers, &c. ^
Tables (hewing the Courfe of the Bouflble and Aftrolube. ^
Travels, over the Continent.
The Plates to be placed in each Volume according to the
Lift in Vol. L with Silver Paper between each.
*^* The Binder is requcfted to pare the bottom of the
Plates before inferting them, left the top of the Engrav-
ings fhould be cut.
CONTENTS.
"'I'..
CONTENTS.
««oeiix
MISCELLANEOUS CHAPTER.
PACK
The Coj?ipiler^s Preface • • i
Preîhnïnary Dïfcourfe xv
Extraâl from the Minutes of the Municipal Court
of the City and Community of Morlaix xlii
The Frigates of the King of France, La Boujfole
and Ï Afirolahe, commanded by Mejfrs. de La
Péroufe and De Langle, failed from the Port of
Brefl, In June, 1785 xïv
Decree of the National AJfcmhJy, of February
^th, 1791 xlxi
Decree of the National AJfcmvly, of April 22^,
1791.... I
. Memorial from the King, toferve as particular In-
JlruBions to the Sieur de la Péroufe, Captain m
the Navy, commanding the Frigates la Boujfole
and TAjirolabe — 26/// June, 1785 li
Part Flrjl.— Sketch of the Voyage liii
Part Second. — Objeâis relative to Politics and
Commerce Ix
Part Third. — Operations relative to Agronomy, -^
Geography, JSavlgatlon, Phyjlcs, and the dlf- Aï-O
ferent Branches of Natural Hljiory Ixvii
' > - . c .%>> i^. <^... V Part
CONTENTS, VOL. I,
PAOB
Part Fourth. — Cotiduâi to be ohferved toward the
Natives of the different Countries Ixxii
Part Fifth. — Precautions to he employed for pre^
ferving the Health of the Cre^vs Ixxv
Extraits from M. de la Pêroufé' s general Inflruc-
tions Ixxx
Southern Atlantic Ocean ibid.
Great South Sea Ixxxiv
Great Equatorial Ocean Ixxxv
Great Northern Ocean , Ixxxvii
Supplement Ixxxix
Letter from M. le Marefchal de Cajiries, to M.
de Condor cet. Secretary to the Academy of Sci-
ences xc
A digejled Alemoir, for the Ufe of the learned and
fcientific Perfons about to embark under M. de
la Pêroufe , ibid.
Geometry, Aflronomy, Mechanics xci
Phyfics , . , xcii
Chemiflry ibid.
Anatomy , xciii
Zoology ibid'
Mineralogy. ........................ xciv
Botany ibid.
Ohfervations of M. Buache.-^Thefe indicate the
Parts of the Ocean in which New Difcoveries
may moft probably be made xcy
JLxamination of the Nature of the Air .,....,... xcvi
Specific Gravity of the Air .................. xcvii
Examination of Water ibid.
Que/lions propofed by the Medical Society to the
Gentlemen who are to accompany M. de la Pê-
roufe, read in the Sitting of May 2,\ , 1785 xcviii
Sketch
CONTENTS, VOL. I.
PAOI
Sketch of Experiments to he rnade for preferving
Water on Ship'board from Corruption, commu-
nicated by the Abhê TeJJter, of the Academy of
Sciences, ar^ of the Medical Society civ
Memoir to direât the Gardener in the Labours of
his Voyage round the World \ by M, Thouin,
: fîrfl Botanical Gardener , cvii
Part Firfl. — Choice, Nature and Culture of the
Vegetables to be tranfported from France ibid.
V art Second. — Of the gathering of Vegetables that
may be ufeful to Europe, and of their Preferva-
tion on the Voyage , cviii
A lift of Seeds to be packed up for the Expedition cix
Vegetables to be tranfported in their natural State cxi
Inventory of Goods and Merchandize to be given in
Prefents or Barter ibid.
Lift of the Names of the Officers, Scientific Men,
Artifts, and Seamen, embarked on Board of the
Frigates la Boujfole and r Aflrolabe, July 1785 cxii
SPANISH VOYAGE.
Narrative of an interefiing Voyage from Manilla
to Saint Blaife, in J780 and 178I cxv
Departure from Sifiran, on the Eajlern Coajl of
Luconia , cxxi
Departure from Refuge Harbour, in the IJland of
Don Martin de Mayorga c\
Departure from the Road of Umata, in the I/land
of Quam, the Capital of the Marianas, fituated
in 30° 10' N. Lat. 1\^ 28^ Lon^r. of Manilla clxii;
Extraât from the Narrative of a Voyage made in
1779? b J^^^ Francis Anthony Maurelle, En-
feigne de Frégate, in the Service of the King of
Spain, for the Difcovery of the Weft Coajt of
^ori^h America clxvi
/%
\
CONTENTS, VOL. I. ,, .
I
LA PEROUSE's VOYAGE.
CHAP. I.
PAGE
Ohjeél of the Voyage and Equipment of the ttvo
Frigates ; Jiay in Brejl Road — Pajfage to Ma- •• >•
deira and Teneriffe-, Jiay in thofe IJlands — Ex- • -
curfion to the Peak — Arrived at Trinidad — .:
Touched at St. Catharine s on the Coajl of
Brafil 1
CHAP. II.
Defcriptlon of St. Catharine s — Ohfcrvations and
Events during our Jîay — Departure from St. ..
Catharines — Arrival at La Conception 27
CHAP. III.
i
Defcrlptlon of Conception Bay — Manners arid Cuf-
toms of the Inhabitants — Departure from Tal-
caguana — Arrival at Eafler IJland 47
CHAP. IV.
Defcrlptlon of Eajier Ifland — Incidents and Events
ivhich took Place there — Manners and Cufioms
of the Inhabitants 64
■ . CHAP. V. :,<r
Excjirfon of M. de Langle Into the interior of -
Eafler I/land — New Obfervatlons on the Man-
ners and Arts of the Natives, the Qualify and
Cultivation of their Soil, ^c 78
CHAR
1/*":'. ' " '' ' ^' • .. , * ;
CONTENTS; VOL. I. j
CHAP. VI.
PAOX
Departure from Eafter Ifland-^jlftronomlcal Oh'
Jervations — Arrival at the Sandwich Iflands —
Anchorage in the Bay of Keriporepo, in the
JJland of Mowee — Departure from that Ifland 83
' CHAP. VII.
Departure from Sandwich Iflands — Signs of ap^
proaching the Coqft of America — DeJcriedMount
St. Elias — Difcovery of the Bay of Monti — Our
Boats reconnoitre the Mouth of the great River
Behring f and a very deep Bay — The favourable
Report of jeveral of our Officers induces us to
put into it-^Dangers incurred in enter ing-^De- ^
Jcription of this Bay, which I named French-
mans Bay and Port — Manners and Cuftoms of \,\.
the Inhabitants'— Barter with them — Journal of
Tranfaâlions during our flay 104
CHAP. VIII.
Continuation of our ftay in Port des Français—"
Dreadful Misfortune when on the Point of de-
parting— Hiftory of this Event — Return to our
jirft Anchorage — Departure 127
Written Injlruâlions delivered to M. ^Efcures by
M. de la Pêrouje .- 130
Narrative of M. Boutin , 134
/ CHAP. IX.
Defcfiption of Port des Français, its Latitude and
Longitude — Advantages and Inconveniences of ,,
that Harbour-^ Fegetable and Mineral Produc-
\
C0NTBNT8, VOL. I.
PAor
tions — Birds, Fifi, Shells, Quadrupeds — Man-
ners and Cuflonis of the Indians — Their Aris,
Arms, Drejs, and Dijpojition to Theft — Great
Pre/umption that only the Ritgiam have a Com-
munication indireâity with theje People — Their
Mujic, Dances, and PaJJion for Gaming — Dif- ^;
fertation m their Language 1^6
Remarks on the Language of the Indians of Port
des Français 1 66
A.
CHAP. X.
Departure from Port des Français — Exploration
of the Coafi of America — Bay of IJlands — Poi~t
of Los Remédias, and Port Buccarelli of the
Pilot Maurello — Croyère Iflands — IJlands of San
Carlos — Defer iption of the Coajl from Crofs
Sound to Cape HeSor — J great Gulph or Chan-
nel—-Exaât Determination of its Breadth —
Sartine Iflands — H^oody Point of Capt. Cook —
P^erification of ourTime-keepers — BreakersPomt
•—Necker IJlands — Arrival at Monterey
v^
CHAP. XI.
Dejcription af Monterey Bay-^Hiftorical Account
of the two Californias, and the Mijftons there —
Manners and Cujloms of the converted, and of
the independent Indians — Grain, Fruit, and
Leguminous Plants of every Kind — Quadrupeds y
Birds, Fijh, Shells, &c. — Military Conjlitution
of theJe two Provinces-^^Particulars relative to
Commerce, &c
-I. -
Z
'^
i\
log
- -■«■ ,t
A
A
'A\fV
195
.iUi r CHAP. XIL
a
Agronomical Ohfervations — Comparijon of the Re-^'-'T'
fults obtained by the Dtftances of the Moon from *'V
the
'Vim
M
;.t£W
CONTENTS, VOL. I,
YAOX
ih Sun, and hy our Tiyne-heepers^ ii'hich Jerved
as the Groiind-'worh of our Chart of the Ame-
rican Coajl — Reafons for thhiking out Labours
deferve the cmfidence of Navi^atvrs — Focaint^ *»•
iary of the Language of the 4ijferent Tribes in
the Vicmity of Monterey y with Remarks on ihe'ir
Pronunciation 2W
aiAP. XIII.
Departure from Monterey — Our projeâled Route
for crojtng the Weft em Ocean to China — Vain
Jearch for the Iflatid of Nueflra Senora de la
Gorta^-^Difcotyery of the JJland of Necker—^
We meet with a Sunken Rock in the Night, wt
which we were nearly cajlmvay — Dcfcrtption of
this Rock'^Determination of its Latitude and
Jjongitnde — Fain fearch for the Ifland of La
^Mira and Garden Iftand-^We make the JJland
of AJfumptioriy one of the Marianas or Ladrones
— Defcrtption and true Place of this IJland, both
in Latitude and Longitude — Error in the ancient
Chart of the Marianas — We determine tht La-
-'i titude and Longitude of the Bajhe'e JJlands—^
We Anchor in the Harbour of Macao 231
CHAP. XIV.
Arrival at Macao — Stay in the Road of Typa—
Polite Reception of the Governor — Defcription
of Macao — Its Government — Population — And ..
Relation with China — Departure from Macao-—'
Our Land-fall in the IJland of Luconia — Un-
certainty of the Situation of the Banks of Bulinao,
Manjiloq, and Marivelle — We enter the Bay of
Manilla by the South Channel, having tried the
. North in vain — Marks for working into the'
Bay of Manilla without Danger — Anchorage
at Cavita t 248
im7 lïBï'
CHAP.
CONTENTS, VOL. I.
CHAP. XV.
FAOB
jir rival at CavUa — Manner of out Reception hy
the Commandant — M, Boutin, Lieutenant de
Faiffeau, is difpatched to the Governor General
at Manilla — Reception of this Officer — Details
relative to Cavita and its Arferuil — Defcription
of Manilla and its Environs-^Its Population —
Dijadvantages refulting from the Government
there efiahltjhed — Penances, at which we were
prefent,, during Pajion Week — Impofts on To-
oacco^-'Inftitution of the New Philippine Com-
pany— RefleéHons on thatEftabli/hment — Details
J relative to the Southemmoft Philippine IJlands-^
Continual Wars with the Moors, or Mahome-
tans, of thefe JJlands — Stay at Manilla — Mili-
tary State of the IJland ofLucoma 269
\
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I ftS ., •. *'. .: . , ■.- . ♦ .«ïii'ifc'»«* \h-
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■71
■^
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THE COM-
THE
COMPILER'S PREFACE.
»«^«4
^X^HE Public, inured to the painful impreiHon
•*• which muft have been produced by the lofs
of the two vcflcls employed in the unfortunate
expedition committed to the charge of la Péroufc,
will be furprized.at the publication of the journal
of his voyage. The decree of the Conflituent
AiTembly, which has ordered the impreffion of
the charts and memoirs tranfmitted by that na-
vigator, muil> however, have announced that we
were not entirely deprived of the fruit of that
expedition. His fagacity engaged him not only
to fcizc, but to feek for opportunities of fending
his journals to Europe. It were to be wiihcd that
the felf-love of the learned gentlemen, embarked
with him, had permitted them, in like manner,
to forego the fruit of their labours ; we fhould not
have had to regret the almoft total lofs of them.
La Péroufe, occupied with the difficult and
numerous details, which the command of an ex-
pedition as important as perilous rendered neççf-
fary, conftrained at every ftep to excrcife judg-
VoL. I. a ment
tt
u
THE COMPILER S PREFACE.
ment and forcfight, and confcqucntly to modify
his ideas conformably to circumilanccs, could
not poflibly collcél in their order, nor digcfl me-
thodically, the materials which were one day to '
enable him to compofe the hiftory of his voyage.
Thofe materials mull have appeared ftill more
deflitute of form in the eyes of a Compiler who
had no part in that enterprize.
As nothing that can ferve to promote the pro- •
grefs of the human mind ought to be negleéled in
voyages of difcovery, pcrfons of fciencc and artifts
conflitute an ciTcntial part of fuch expeditions :
on their return, each one arranges his own ma-
terials, and gives to the particular objecfl in which
he was employed that degree of pcrfedion of
which he believes it to be fufceptible : from a
judicious union of thefe different parts a com-
plete relation is obtained, in which the particu-
lars appear in connexion, and every thing is in
its proper place. In the prcfent cafe, through a
fatality which has no example, our new Argo-
nauts have all perilhed ; and I am called upoa
alone to fupply, by colleding what could be fav-
cd from the ihip wreck, the true and energetic
touch of navigators,, who would not have faid a
word but what confided with their perfonal ex-
perience. _. i- , i . o^ , ^»
In complying, not without reludance, with
• *• .
m
THE compiler's PREFACENT,
the ibllcltations which induced mc to engage in
this painful though honourable undertaking, it
•was impoiTible for mc to overlook the difHcultics
which I had to encounter in a work, all the parts
of which no human faculties could equally cm-
brace.
The Public will undoubtedly regret, with mc,
that the ex-marine-minifter, Fleurieu, now a
member of the National Inflitutc and of tho
Board of Longitude, a fcholar of rare and dif-
tinguifhed merit, who at firft exprefled a ftrong
inclination to undertake himfelf the compilation
of this work, has been obliged by circumflances
to abandon his defign.
The fame intereil which induced me to ma-
nifeft, from the tribune of the Conftituent Af-
fembly> the moft ardent zeal for the publication
of this voyage, for the benefit of the refpeélablc
widow of la Péroufe, prompted me to direét the
choice of government to a perfon poûeifed of >
maritime talents capable of replacing the gentle- •
man who had been firft appointed to the tafk :
but France had already loft, in a great meafure,
the moft diftinguifhed of her naval officers ; the
reft were fully employed, or had voluntarily re-
tired. The minifter could feledl only one who
had at leaft made a ftudy of the mathematical
fciences and of phyfics, the eiTential bafis of fuch
a 2 a work.
't.
<
If»; THE COMPILER S PREFACE. '-
a work. The choice of a man poiTeiTed, in a fu-
perior degree, of thoie fciences was beildcs con-
formable to the intention of la Péroufe himfelf ;
for he wrote to one of his friends in words near-
ly to this effeO: : *' Should my journal be fent to
" the prefs before my return, let care be taken
" not to commit the compilation of it to a man
" of letters : for he will either take upon him to
** facrificci to an agreeable turn of expreffion the
" proper term, which may appear to him harfh
'* and barbarous, but which the feaman and the
" man of fcience would prefer, and will in vain
'* look for ; or elfe, putting afide all the nautical
" and aftronomical details^ and defirous of pre-
** fcnting to the world an interefting romance
** merely, he will commit, through want of that
" kind of knowledge which his education may
" not have permitted him to acquire, errors
" which {hall prove fatal to my fucceflbrs : but
" feledt a compiler well verfed in mathematical
" fcience, one who is a mafter of calculation,
" one capable of combining my data with thofc
" of other navigators, of reélifying the miftakes
" which may have efcaped me, without making
" others of his own. Such a compiler will go
" to the bottom of the fubjeft ; he will fupprcfs
nothing eiTcntial ; he will prefent the techni-
cal details, in the blunt and rough, but concife
«ilile.
((
tc
THE COMPILER S PREFACE. V
*' ftilc, of a fcaman ; and he will well difcharge
** the cruft repofed in him by fupplying my de-
*' feds, and by publilhing the work fuch as T
*' myfelf would have wiftied to make it."
Having made this wifh of the author my con-
ftant rule, I advife that clafs of readers who have
amufement for their fole obje£t to proceed no
farther ; I have not laboured for them, but only
for the feaman and the man of fcience. 1 h^ye
endeavoured, in a work whofe fubftance ought
to have a preference to the form, and in which
fidelity as to fads and exadnefs of expreffion are
the moft important qualities, to be clear and pre-
cifc ; I have niade no facrifice to grace at the ex-
pence of truth. This acknowledgement is all
the apology I make, at the lame time that it {o-
licits the indulgence of the reader.
In this view I have rcligioufly reipeded the
character of flyle employed by each author, fim-
ply adapting its forms to the received ftandard of
language : but when any idea ftruck me which
could ferve to conned others, an expreffion which
might complete an image, render it more promi-
nent, or give to the phrafeology more harmony,
without altering the fenfe, I thought myfelf at
liberty to employ it.
The work which is now prefented would un-
doubtedly have been much more valuable, had
a 3 it
. V
Vi THE COMPILER S PREFACE.
it proceeded from the pen of the cx-minifter,
Fleurieu, enriched as it muft have been with his
various and profound literature : I am bound at
the fame time to declare, that I have confulted
him whenever 1 found myielf in doubt ; and I
have ever found in him that complaifance and
that modefty which are the infeparable atten-
dants of real fcience and talents.
If to colleâ:, to difpofe, to digeft in a proper
manner, all the parts of fuch a work, was a dif-
ficult undertaking, the details relative to its pub-,
lication, the pains, the refcarches, the exertions
of every kind, which the moft indefatigable zeal
alone could have iupported, and the delays
neceiTarily occafioned by unforefeen accidents,
feemed to render it impraflicable.
The impreffion had been decreed in 179I
and no commencement was made in 1 7Q3, the
asra when the labour devolved on me. A paper
currency continually decreafmg in value, diflblv-
ed the engagements made with artifts, and
with undertakers in every department, almoft
as foon as formed, or induced them to op-
pofe to my efforts a moft difcouraging indo-
lence, which formed its calculation on the prof-
peel of a more fortunate futurity ; an opinion,
bordering on delirium, which then produced a
forced accommodation to the times, in contra-
. I. didion
. I
i»
« «
VII
Lifter,
:h his
nd at •
fulted •
and I ^
;e and
attem-
proper
a dif-
s pub-
ertions
lie zeal
delays
idents,
1791,
)3, the
^ paper
diffolv-
;, and
almoft
to op-
; indo-
le prof-
opinion,
luced a
contra -
didion
THE COMPILER S PREFACE.
didion to the truth of hiftory, of the denomina-
tions, the ufages of very different times, laid me
under the neceffity, in this refpeft, of remaining
paffive for more than a year ; finally a new pa-
per money, and embarraffment in the public
finances, when gold and filvcr again appeared in
circulation: thefe have been the phyfical and
moral caufes of the delay to which I have been
forced to fubmit.
In order to enable me to eonciliate the diffi-
culties of compilation, arifing out of the difîiculr
ties of the moment, it had been powerfully re-
commended to me to write the hiftory of this
voyage in the third perfon. By thb* means tranf-
formed into an hiftorian, and appropriating to
myfelf the materials intrufted to me, I removed
the navigator to a diftance, that I might place
myfelf between the reader and him. This pro-
pbfal has not feduced my. vanity ; I have facri-
ficed it to the intereft which always infpires the
man who relates what he has felt, who defcribes
the painful fituations through which he has paiT-
cd, and renders you the affociate of his pleafures
as well as of his diftrefTes.
If circumftances have involved me in fetters
and obftacles during the progrefs of my labour,
the refult will at leaft demonftrate that Govern-
ment has not ccafed to protect the arts and
'» a 4 - fcicnccs
V ,
i
-iiil
via THE COMPILER s PREFACE.
fcienccs through the whole courfc of the moil
aflonifhing of revolutions, which has excited
againft it a war as general as oppreilive.
1 have explained the nature and difficulties of
the undertaking ; it is now incumbent on me to
fay fomething refpeéling the form of the work,
of its diftribution, and of the care employed in
the execution in every material point.
The title of Voyage round the World which I
have given it, though not in ftridnefs of ipccch
due to it till the return of la Peroufe into one of
our French ports, will affuredly not be difputed,
as we may confider a voyage round the world to
be completed, when, taking his departure from
Europe, the navigator has arrived in China after
doubling Cape Horn and croiling the South Sea.
Befides, have not our navigators fumifhed, dur-
ing the year of naval refearch which followed
their arrival in China, a career much longer,
more brilliant and more perilous, than that of
fimply their return to Europe ? 'ïi « r: .:^^
The work, coniifting of four volumes in oc-
tavo, and of an Atlas in quarto *, is divided in the
following manner :
.The firft volume contains all the preliminary
* The Paris edition, from whence the plates of this
tranflation are engraved, is four vols. 4to. and a folio vo>
lume of plates.
' ^ a '* ' ' pieces
THE COMPILER S PRFACE. IX
pieces relative to the expedition; I have only
added to it the tranilation of a Spaniih voyage,
the manufcript copy of which has been tranf-
mitted by la Péroufe, and which I could place
no where elfc without rendering the volumes of
a fize too unequal.
A celebrated author refcued from oblivion the
magnanimous felf-facrifice of d'Affas, who de-
voted his own life to favc the French army,
calling aloud. Here am /, Auvergne, that is the
enemy. The Society of Natural Hiftory at Paris
had the merit of fixing the attention of the re-
prefentatives of the nation on the expedition of
la Péroufe, by the petition which they prefented
the 22d of January 1 701. The National AfTem-»
bly delayed not a moment to take it into confi-
deration, however important the other fubjedb of
deliberation in which they were engaged, i
The two decrees which were the refult of thb,
as honourable for the Affembly as for the perfons
who were the objeft of them, are placed at the
head of the work. They breathe humanity and
fcnfibility, and will announce for ever, to every
one who fhall form the refolution of walking in
the footftcps of la Péroufe : " When thou fhalt
" have performed thy career through the quickr
" fands and dangers of every kind which furround
*^ thee, thou mayeft reft aflured, ihouldft thou
■M
^
:-.{(
È
THE COMPILER S PREFACE.
■►^^
%.
•f
«
" fall by the way, that a grateful country will
** honourably enrol thy name in the temple of
" Fame."
I have not reftriéled myfelf to the pradice of
preferving the names of only the officers and
fcientific men employed in fimilar expeditions :
the publication of an exaél lift of the fliips' crews
appeared to me to be an a<ft more conformable
to juftice and to the fpirit of the French govern-
ment ; and I farther thought that this regifter
might be henceforward the only mortuary ex-
tract which the families of our unfortunate na-
vigators could produce. i
Thé inftru<5lions and the geographical notes
which follow, for which 1 am indebted to the ex-
minifter of the marine, Fleurieu, are a model too
precious to be with-held from the public eye :
they conftitute befidcs the only reply that I mean
to give to a note of George Forfter, which has a
tendency to difcredit the motives purely relative
to the advancement of the fciences, which de-
termined this expedition. It fills me with regret
to think that a man whom 1 efteem Ihould have
expreffcd himfelf thus in his Hijiortcal and Pk^
turefque Tour along the Banks of the Rhine, vol. i.
pag. 311, of the French tranflation. r .[ ..
" At the period when the interefting and ill-.
" fated la Péroufe took his departure to make
ib\i - ' • ^ " new
t
'^
»
' will
)le of
ice of
5 and
ions :
crews
mablc
)vcrn-
îgifter
ry cx-
,te na-
- -■ A
notes
:he ex-
iel too
: eye :
mean
1 has a
elative
ch de-
rcgret
THE COMPILERS PREFACE.
<* new conquefts for commerce and philofophy,
** a minifter prefcnted to the Council a memorial
V refpcding the incalculable advantages of that
" entcrprize. This memorial, though a long
<* one, was read with avidity ; ncverthelefs it con-
" tained but a fmglc idea, and here it is : Would
** you wt/hijtre, faid the minifter, to divert the at-
** tention of your fuhje^is from that dangerous an-
** gkmania, from that pajpon for liberty ^ the de^
" dared enemy of peace and good order ; amufe
" them with new ideas, deceive their hours of lei/ure
by images, whofe poignant variety may furni/h
aliment to their frivolity. It were much better
that theyfhould employ themf elves in cotUemplat"
ing the ridiculous tricks of a Chinefe monkey, than
<* that they fhoujfd perftft in the prefent fafhion of *
" running mad after the horfes and the philofophers
** of England'*
The fécond and third volumes comprehend the
journal of the totality of the voyage, and tables
of the track of the two frigates, in which is to «
be found the refult of the aftronomical and me-
teorological obfervations. fHm».n.'^> jh/>r^ ^%%d4. k. •
We {land indebted to the progrefs made in
aftronomy for the means of determining, at pre-
fent, the longitude at fea to a high degree of prc-
ciflon. To announce that the aftronomer Da-
gelet, a member of the Academy of Sciences, un-
*'. . «
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it
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* 1 :^ ^ '
^C
dertook
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I*
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Xll
THE COMPILER S PREFACE.
dcrtook the fuperintcndancc of this part of the
labour, is to infpire the moft complete confidence
reipeding its exadnefs, and that of the tables and
charts which refult from it. ^'^ >
If the journal does not in every point coincide
with the tables of the fhip*s track and with the
charts, it arifes from the impoflibility of delay-
ing the imprcffion of the journal, till they were
completely verified. At any rate thefe differ-
ences are neither frequent nor coniîderable ; when
they occur, the preference ought to be given to
the tables, and efpecially to the charts» which
were executed under the diredion of the firfl
hydrographer of the marine, Buache, a member
of the National Inflitute and of the Board of
Longitude. I am bound here to acknowledge,
with particular refped, the folicitude which that
gentleman has difcovered to fupport rne in this
important part of my engagement.
Through the whole courfe of the work, the
longitudes, which are indicated by rio particulaf
meridian, are reckoned from that of Paris.
I have endeavoured to be cxad in the orthor
graphy of proper names of perfons and places ;
but thefe lafl being as various in the relations, as
the languages of their authors are different j it
was necefTary to adopt, in tranfcribing fuch
^ords indicative and merely of convention, the
;^iu:jr%.ij orthography
-'^
THE COMPILER S PREFACE.
of the
idcncc
les and
)incidc
th the
delay-
Y were
differ-
when
ven to
which
le firft
lember
)ard of
/ledge,
:h that
in this
orthor
places ;
ons, as
;nt; it
5 fuch
3n, the
graphy
orthography tnoû generally received, by combin-
ing it with the idiom of the country. s
The fourth vohime is compofed of memoirs,
or detached pieces tranfmitted to government by
the fcientific gentlemen employed in the expedi-
tion, and of thofe which I was able to collc<fl.
I had, for this purpofe, made application to the
late Academy of Sciences, and to individuals
whom I fufpeAcd to have kept up a correfpond-
cnce with the co-operators of la Peroufe, in order
to obtain fiich memoirs as they might have com-
municated : but this labour was fruitlefs ; I could
procure only thofe of which I found fomc fcattered
fragments in the journal of phyfxcks, and I was at
pains to place them together in this volume.
I have added, in the courfe of the work, a va-
riety of notes, wherever I thought they could be
ufeful; and I have diftinguilhed them by the
initial letters of the words. Compiler's note.*
In order to facilitate refearch, I have terminat-
ed the work by a general table of the fubjcdb
contained in it.
The number, the magnitude and the beauty of
the engravings and charts, made me determine
to give them together in a feparate atlas, and of
a larger fize. I thought that a national work,
executed with fo much care, well merited fuch a
* In this tranflation, by the words— ir^wj^ Editer.
prefer vative
>*
>- m
%
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^
^*^"
XÎV
THE COMPILER S PrtEFACE. .
prcfervativc precaution. If it is not generally
approved, I have this to fay for myfelf, that fuch
is the form of the beautiful edition of Cook's
Third Voyage, publifhcd by order, and at the ex-
pence» of the Englifh government.
I have been under the neccflity, in order to
bring the work at length to conclufion, to dif-
tribute among a great number of engravers, the
drawings at firft committed to five artifts of emi-
nent ability : from thi^has refulted an unavoid-.
able defeél in point of uniformity and perfection ;
I have done my utmoft to render this as imper-
ceptible as it could be.
If this work be fuch as the Public had a right
to expedt from the materials put into my hands,
and after the unexpeéled lofs of our navigators,
my moft pleafing recompcnfe will be to reflet,
that I have fulfilled the views of Government,
and that I contributed my efforts towar<l that
monument of gratitude which it meant to rear
to their memory. ^
:i.-'iu
'■tr-i; '^
•»■ - - - H
/.n^^A-Sw-V^v. • v<,5i ;; ...
h'
PRELi-
w
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE
BY
THE COMPILER.
r
i
ALL Europe, in the favourable reception given
to the rehitions of the modern voyages round
the world, appears to have manifeilcd a wifli to pro-
mote the progrefs of, the phyfical and natural fci-
ences: but, it mull be acknowledged, among the
numerous amateurs of works of this kind, fome have
nothing in view but amufement merely ; the objcél
of others is to ellabliih, by means of a felf-compla-
cent comparifon between our manners and cuftoms,
and thofe of favagcs, the fuperiority of civilized man
over the reft of mankind : men of fcience alone, and
they are few in number, fearch for and find in them,
almofl always, materials which conduce to the in-
creafe of their ftock of knowledge. *^
The relations of voyages of difeovery may be reck-
oned among the mofl interefting books of modern
hiftory, Man, naturally fond of what is new and
extraordinary, tranfports himfelf in thought into dif-
tant regions; he identifies himfeif with the naviga-
tor ; he partakes in his dangers, his pains, his plea-
fures, and becomes his infeparable companion from
the diverfity of objects which attach him, and which
furnifh a confiant fupply of aliment to his curiofity.
In this lafl point of view, there can be no doubt
that extracts from voyages, fuch as thofe which Pre-
voft has given us, diiengaged from all the dry and
tirefome details which refpedl aflronomy and navi-
gation, may be more agreeable to read than the works
at
»
>|pi
^K
*
*• #
»rt
Hf..-
m
#.»•
IRA PRELIMINARY DISCOURS!?. » ^
at large ; but fuch cxtradls arc not the Tources front
which the mariner and the man of fcicnce derive
their fupplics, bccaufc the materials thus paflcd
through the crucible of the man of letters, from
which they iflTued light and brilliant, no longer pre-
fent the folid principle which conftitutcs fciencc, and
which is deftroyed by the change it has undergone.
The authors or tranflators of works of the fame
kind with the prefent, have almoft all of them given
an enumeration of the voyages which preceded the
one they were publifhing, and of the difcoveries
which had refulted from them. They thus exhibited
a piélure of the fucceffive acquilitions which geo-
graphy had made, at the fame time that they indi-
cated the works which gave an account of them. I
iTiall not repeat this detailed enumeration, which may
be fouj;id elfewhere, but fatisfy myfelf with giving a
more complete chronological lift of the principal na-
vigators to whom we are indebted for difcoveries in
the South Sea :
Magellan, a Portugucze, in the fervîcc of Spain
Garcia de Loaes or Loayfa, a Portugucze, idem
Alphonzo de Salazar, a Spaniard
Alvar Suvacdra, a Spaniard
Ferdinand Grijalva and Alvarcdo, Spaniards
Gaétan, a Spaniard
Alvar de Mendana, a Spaniard
Juan Fernandez, a Spaniard
Drake, an EnçUlhinan
Thomas Candifh, (Cavendifh) an Englifhman
Sir Richard Hawkins, an F.nglifhman
Alvar de Mendana, a Spaniard
Oliver de Nort, a Dutchman
Pedro Fernandez de Quiros, and Luis Vacs de
Torres, Spaniards - < ,
George Spelberg, a Dutchman
Le Maire and Schouten, Dutchmen
L^Hermite, a Dutchman
Abel Tafman, a Dutchman
Anthony la Roche, a Frenchman
Cowley, an £ngU(hman
}
1519
15L'5
1525
1526
1537
1542
1667
1576
1577
1586
1594
1595
1598
160G
1614
- 1616
- 1623
- 1642
- 1675
- 1683
Dampicr,
» .
1519
1525
1525
1526
1537
1542
1667
157G
1577
1586
1594
1595
1598
1606
1614
1616
1623
1642
1675
1683
)ampicr,
• V'j
xvii
1687
1687
1689
1693
1699
1703
170»
170rt
1712
1715
1719
PRELIMINAllT DISC0UR8R.
Danipler, an iLn|;lifhman -
DuvicH, an Enghfhman ^ •
John Strong, an Englilhraart - - > «
Gemelli Carreri, a Neapolitart * -
fieauchéne Gouin, a Krcnclimaii
William Funnel, an Engiiihman ^
AVood Roecr, an Kngliiuinan *•
LquIs Feuillet-, a Frenchman • -
Frczier, a Frenchman - •
(jentll de la Baibinais, a Frenchman
John Cliperton aftd and George Shelvocke, j
Englilhmcn - - }
Ro^gewein, a Dutchman
Anion, an F-nglilhman m
Le Hen-Uvignon, a Frenchman - - •
Byron, an Englifhman
Wallis, an Englifhman
Carteret, an Engliftiman •> , * *
Pages, a Frenchman - - -
Bougainville, a Frenchman
Cook, an Engliftiman »•
Survillc, a Frenchman * - *
Marion and du Clefmeur, Frenchmen
Cook, an F^ngliftiman
Cook, Clerke and Gore, Englifhmen
Cook's laft voyage was hitherto known only by the
tragical end of the illullrious commander of that ex-
pedition, when France, availing lierfelf of the leifure
procured by the peace which hud juft been conclud-
ed, confidered it as n duty which (lie owed to her
own rank among the firll maritime powers, and ftill
more to her zeal, and to the means which (he pof-
feflcd for the advancement of the fcicnces, to ifliie
orders for a voyage of difcovery, that (he might con-
cur in carrying to perfedlion the knowledge of the
globe which we have fo long inhabited. If progrefs
has been made in modern times in the explor;^tion of
unknown regions, if the pofition of each of the
known parts of the globe is henceforth fixed, in a
word, if every ftep vvc take biings us nearer to the
objcdl in view, we owe all to the improvement of
Vol. I. bi ' aftronon\ical
1722
- 1741
- 1747
- 1764
- 1766
- 1766
- 1766
--•1766
- 1769,
- 1769
- 1771
- 1772'
- 1775
u m
\ I
♦
é
;isi;;
Kvlii tRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
aftronomical knowledge. This fcience gives us, in
the dillances of certain "ftars, whofe motion is calcu-
lated with extreme preciflon, an infallible bafis by
which we are enabled to determine, with an accuracy
fafficicnt for the fecurity o( navigation, the longi-
tude in the middle of an immenfe ocean, where, till
now, it had been impoffible to fettle it, except to an
approximation in a great meafure arbitrary, which
expofed the navigator to mi flakes of ferious import-
ance. This benefit of aftronomy enfures, for the
time to come, the fuccefs of our expeditions, and
the perfe6ling of geography.
Means undoubtedly exift for accelerating this
happy refult of Scientific refearch ; and this is the
place to fuggcft fome ideas refpeéling an objeâ of fo
great magnitude. Thefe means might be combined
into a iyftem, in a fpecies of Gongrefs to be compofed
df» agents commiflioned by the principal maritime
powers, which might wi(h to participate in the glory
of fuch an enterprize. . , i
^^ The Congrefs, confifiing of aflronomers, hydro-
graphers, and feamen, would make it their bufinefs
to retrace all the ancient difcoveries not complete-
4y verified till now ; they would prefent a pic-
ture of allthe parts of the globe where difcoveries
•are Hill to be made, to be completed, or details to he
'coinmunicated ; they would prepare a view of the
ifeafons in every latitude of the two hemifpheres, of
the prevailing winds, of the raoonfons, of the cur-
Tents, of the refreftiments, of the affiftance to be ex-
ceeded, &c.
iOpon fuch a bafis as this, a general inftru6^ion
might be draWn up to be given to the commanders
of a great expedition ; and in order to prevent the
direélion of feveral projeéls to the fame object, the
totality of difcoveries to be made might be divided
among the maritime powers, regard being had to the
'à^; ;;,::^£ii' .ro jrfi u r ,ii - . ,polièffions
i
^
PRELIMINARY DIS^ÇOURSE.
XIX.
us, 111
calcu-
las by
luracy
long^-
;re, till
t to an
which
m port-
er the
m, and
ig this
s is the
aof fo
mbined
impofed
laritime
le glory
hydro-
bulinefs
mplete-
a pic-
coveries
ils to be
of the
leres, of
the cur-
o be ex-
|)oflè{rions and re^tlcments whiqh might refpedively
î^cilitatc the execv<tion of fuch enterprifes.
if England, Sp^in, Holland, Portugal, Ruffia,
the United States, and France, were to agree to de-
fray the expence of ^n expedition every three years,
it is next to a certainty that geography, in lefe than
twenty years, wguld be brought tp 9- ftate q( perfec-
tion.
France would unqueftionably have continued to
favour the prqgrcfs of geography, unlefs, for feverai
years paft, interefts of a far different importance,
and an expenfive war, uudertai^en to maintain them,
had entirely occupied her, and concontrat^ed all her
refources : but peace, by recalling in a great mea-
fure the attentiqn of government to the arts and
fcicnces, promifes us new expeditions to be jfet on
foot to promote them.
When fuch enterprizes are fet afloat with enlarg-
ed views, all the fcicnces are gainers by them.
Though the philofopher is not fond of Ihiking ins
place, the refults of voyages do not the lefs on thjat
account become a province of his domain : prompt
to collect the obfervations of the mariner, he makes
himfelf mailer of his ideas, unfolds theni, çonneâ;s
them with the general iyftem, by analyzing.and claf-
fing the fcnfations which produced them, and thus
give a new life to all the parts of the fcicncc.
If navigation thus improved muft powerfully con-
tribute to extend the boundaries of human know-
ledge, it is the part of government to ftimulate in
this refpedl the efforts of talent, to reward its fuc-
ccfîès, to collect ai)d publifh the difcoveries, to re-
ceive and to refle6t all the irradiations of thought,
all the views of genius, and to attach to itièlf, oyer
every point of the globe, the men who by their me-
rit and their labours appertain to every country and
to e-ery age, without regard to their opinion refpecft-
ing events already removed to a diftance from us,
• ' h :i and
XX
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
and of which nothing but the refult need to be
fcen, and which may become favourable, when on
the re-eftablifhment of general peace the propofed
plan may be put in execution. o^;' ^ '''■
This plan would, bring forward the difcuffion of
fomc important queftions in geography, and particu-^
larly of that of an univerfal meridian ; for there is
no geographer but has experienced' the inconvc-'
niences arifing from the difference of meridians on
which our charts have been laid down. It is necef-
fary to guard continually againft falling into errors ;
the fmalleft comparifon to fettle between two me-
ridians requires an operation of addition or fub-
traétion. This confufion is occafioned by naviga-
tors employing refpe6lively, in the formation of their
charts, the meridian adopted by their nation, or even
by their frequently affuming one of their own. On
the other hand, fome in reckoning longitude pro-
ceed from the weft, others from the eaft, counting
up to 3Ô0 degrees. Others, and they arc the majori-
ty among the moderns, have divided their longitudes
into eaftern and wcftern : now, the difference be-
tween the meridians of the obfervatorics of Europe
being the fame for the meridians of their antipodes,
it is found, by this divifion to the eaft and to the
weft, that one longitude was, as in our hcmifphere,
wcftern to the one, whereas it was eaftern to the
other. From this miftakes have refultcd, which it
would be eafy to avoid by reckoning longitude uni-
formly up to 3()0 degrees, and by a general agree-
ment to proceed weftward. The only objcélion
againft this mode of reckoning is, that it does not
conftantly give, by the progreftion of the degrees,
an idea of the diftance ; that is, that up to 160 de-
grees, the meridian of the antipodes, it is clearly
perceptible that degrees mark diftance ; but on pro-
ceeding from that point, every one is not in a con-
edition to comprehend that at 200 degrees of longi-
tude,
XXI
to be
hen on
ropofcd
ffion of
)articu*
.here is
iconvc-'
É
ians on •
m
I necef-
errors ;
wo mc-
or fub-
naviga-
o( their
or even
n. On
ide pro-
ounting
majori-
igitudes V
ncc be- ^
Europe
itipodes,
•-. ^'-
I to the
" «
lifphere,
to the
vhich it
jde uni-
1 agree-
-"■
)bicélion
loes not
degrees.
\
160 de-
'■k
> clearly
t on pro- ^
n a con- "^
)f longi- 1
tude,
u
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
tnde, the diftance from the meridian where the
reckoning commenced is lefs than at 180, whereas
by faying l6o degrees of eaft longitude, inftead of
'400 degrees of longitude, one fenfibly perceives
where he is. .;^fl> '.nr,;
It innft be admitted that the objeélion againft
numbering the degrees up to 3Ô0 is very feeble, re-
gard being had to the merit of a procefs fimple and
fccured from error ; a merit which fhould make us
overlook the inconiidcrable number of perfons who
will not learn to comprehend the fmallnefs of the,
didance between their . own meridian and that of
/ • * . "»< , .
'JSnO
**' r%vt fr »f"|
33y
The advantage refulting from the mode of reck-
oning longitude up to 300 degrees, is however a
matter of little importance compared to that of the
adoption of a common meridian to fcirve, in future,'
as the bafis of the geography of all nations. It is
abundantly fcnfible that the felf love of each of them
will make inceflTant efforts to cry up and prefer its
own. Putting afide every conlideration of this fort,
tlie meridian which, it would appear, is the mod
proper to afîlnne, in that it pafîès over very little
land, and leaves the meridians of the maritime pow-
ers of Europe to the eaû, is hat of the remarkable
peak which Nature feems to have placed in the midft
of the ocean, to ferve as a pharos to navigators ; I
mean the peak of Teneriffe. > A pyramid conftrué^-.
ed at the expence of the aflbciated powers might be
raifcd on the point through which the meridian line
fhould pjifs ; and aboard of aftronomers, chofcn from
among the members of the propofed congrefs, would
determine, by a feries of operations, the exaét dif-
ferences between this common meridian, and that of
the grand obfervatories 6f the two worlds.
Thcfe operations, to which the perfeétion of the
means we poilefs would enfure the higheft degree
of aceiiraey, mufl remove all uncertainty of calcu-
b 3 lation.
liM
Fà'éttM'M4HY Diëcôurié'É.
i
lâtiôri, réfjjiecfting thé c|uffntities to be addtd or ftib-.
tfa6!ed, in ctxmparing meridian' wrth melfidian ; they
^ôuiM ârtriihilate the difièrencés produced in the re-
fold of their com pariibii obtained at different epochs,
and which may be taken for errors, if we lofë iîght
ôif thÎ6' fdéïj that ftfîronomers, after rtèw obiêrVtftiôfts,
madte with ^eatér attention, aiïd by the affiftance of
bettet iti^uiMûtÉf have changed the relations of
diûàù^ fettled between the Meridians of the obfer-
Vatories of Paris and Greenwich. That diftance,
\(rhich was fixed at 2^ I9', is now afcertained to be
Q^ 20^ : tvAy], if a rigorous precifion were exa<fted, it
ought to be carried to 2° 20/ 15^ or 9' 2l" of
tiiWCi mâkihg allowance fot the flattening, fuppof-
iftg it T^rVij according to the ôbfervâtions of the
âfti-bÀônîcfi Lalande, with whôfé rnerit the world is
well aeqttâiKftëd, and whofe calculations unite, to a
Very high degree^ perfpicuity and precifion.
The idea of a common meridiàft, which I j^refènt
dt the heaki of a journal of an important voyage,
arofe from the reflexions fuggeflfed to me by the ex-
amination of that work, while employed 'in thé la-
bour of compilation ; it fmiled upon me as I proT
cççded in that undertaking : it pofîibly may rtot be
tiniverfally relifhed ; but I mufl be permitted to form»
a wifh for its adoption, till the inconveniences^ttend-
ihg it, if there be any, are poin1?Rd out.
Thii neW meridian leaves, at Icafl, our immenfe
geographical materials in all their value ; were it
not for that, the idea of it ought to be rejc<Sted, as
i reject:, for the prefent, though with no fmall re-
g;ret, that of tbo new divifion of the circle, becaufe
it prefents- tbe ferious deftéï of almoft annihilating
them. This needs to be explained, and cannot be
çonfidered as a digrefîion from my fubje6i:.
Morç tbam any one I am acquainted with the
partifan of decimal calculation, which has been
treated with fo much accuracy in the writings of
. ' . the
«*
XXIU
or fub-
; they
thç ré-*
epochs,
h fight
ancç of
ions of
; obfer-
iftance,
d to be
6led, it
21" of
fuppof-
oC the
^^orld is
te, to a
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
the learned and ingenious Borda, as well as in tboffî
of the other members of the temporary board of
weights and meafures; I cannot however difguife th^
inconveniences of the divilion of the circle into 40Q
degrees. They are fuch, that it would require thf
lapfe of feveral ages, from the epoch of its genepw
adoption, completely to obliterate theno,, during
which it would be neceflatfy to preferve both divi»
fions, in order to facilitate the labour of comparing
our new charts with thofe of other powers, and: wijth
the ancient materials in geography.
If the portion of time known by the name of
day admits of the decimal divilion, the fun„ in his
annual revolution, caonot be reduced tp it. ^nqç
there is, therefore, in nature, a boundary at which
decimal calculation ftops, and as it cannot divide the
period of a folar revolution, wherefore ibould it bç
adapted to the cUviiion of the circle ?
It will be alleged, that this divilion of the circlç
into 400 degrees is perfectly in unifon with that of
the day into ten hours, of the hour into JOG mi^
mîtes, -and x)f the minute into tOO féconds; which
makes one degree of the circle correfpbnd to two
minutes and a half of time. It v^'ill be farther ob-
fcrved, and with good reafon, that the balis of all
meafurements, called mèfre, being taken in nature,
and formed of the ten-millionth part of the quarter
of the meridian, there relults from it a natural de-
cimal divilicMi, as the degree is found to contain
a bundled thoulknd metres, or twenty lçagues*of
five thoufand metres each : but thefe advantages,
and that of prefenting, in general, a confiant fcale
in the degree, and its fubdivifions, cannot counter-
balance the inconveniences which refult from the
changes propofed.
The grand idea of rendering weights tnd mea-
fures uniform, has produced the fublime one of
looking for the ftandard of them in nature. That'
b 4 flandard
XXIV
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
ilandard is precifely fuch, in faél, as we would have
found it among a nation well informed and new to
us, had it made the fame progrefs in the arts and
fciences, and had it conceived, as we have done, the
projcift of eftablîfliinfç the uniformity of weights
and meafures, by feeking the bafis of it in nature.
f>, -What opportunity more favourable for difcuffing
tïie advantages and the inconveniences of adopting
an uniformity of weights and meafures, and that of
the decimal divifion, than that of a congrcfs, con-
lifting of the reprefentativcs of the moft illuftrious
fcientific focieties in the world ! If the different
governments would agree to admit this uniformity
in every cafe in which it would be deemed ufeful,
its fimultapeous and univerfal reception would double
the benefit of it ; and then would be the time to
make the greateft effort to overcome the difficulties
of its application to the divifion of the circle ^nd the
meafurement of time.
What power preferably to France would hence-
forth, by an influence equally extenfive and com-
manding, realize the plan of fuch a congrefs ?
As grca:t in her enterprizes as in her conceptions,
in her operations as in her views, fhe determined,
as 1 have faid, to fet on foot a voyage of dif •
covery; the proje<ft agreed upon was adopted
by government : the preliminaiy inftructions will
demonfirate that it was as vaft as ably conceived,
in the totality and in the details. A commander
i n chief, of acknowledged ability, was requifite
to condu6l the expedition : La Péroufe was fc-
le(5led. His exertions, and his conftant fucceflès,
in military marine enterprizes, had inured him to
the approach of every fpecies of danger, and ren-
dered him fitter than any man to purfue the painful
and perilbus career of a long navigation over un-
known feas, and through the midft of countries in-
Ji'abited by barbarous nations. | feel an obligation
tQ
PRELIMINARY DISOQURSB,
XXV
d have
lew to
ts and
ne, the
v'cights
ture.
cuffing
lopting
that of
s, con-
jftrious
ifferent
formity
ufeful,
double
time to
[lenities
md the
hencC'-
com-
ngrefs ?
sptions,
rmined,
of dif-
idopted
ns will
iceivcd,
mander
equifite
;\'as fc-
icceflcs,
him to
îd ren-
painful
rer un-
tries in-
ligtition
ta
to the reader, on this fubje<^, to enter into certain
details reipc(^ling tl?e life of this çclebrateçj ^pd jU-
fated officer.
John Francis Galaup de la Péroufe, commodore
in the navy of France, was born at Albi, in the year
1741. Admitted at an early age intq the marine
fchool, his firft attention was turned toward the il-
luftrious navigators who had raifed the reputation of
their country, and from almoft the firft moment he
formed the refolution o( purfuing their tract; but,
enabled to advance but by flow degrees in this diffi-
cult career, he prepared himfelf, by feeding his mind
in advance with the fruit of their labours, to become
one day their equal. Hq had united betimes experi-
ence to theory. He already completed eighteen naval
campaigns, when the command of the laft expedi-
tion was cpnfided to him. Appointed midfliipman
November 19, 1756, he fcrved at firft five cam-
paigns in a war with England : the firft four on
board the Célèbre, the Pomone, the Zephyr, and the
Cert; and the fifth on board the Formidable, com-
ïnanded by St. André du Verger. This vefïèl was
pne of the fquadron under the command of the Ma-
refchal de Conflans, when it fell in withi the Englifh
fleet oft' Bellifle. The fliips of the rear divifion, the
Magnifique, the Hero, and the Formidable, were
attacked and furroundàd by eight or ten fail of the
enemy. The engagement commenced and became
general ; it was fo defperate, that eight yeflels, Eng-
lifli Or French, went to the bottom during the aélion,
or run a-ground, and were burnt on the coaft of
France. The Formidable alone, more roughly
handled than the reft, was taken after a vigorous
refiftance. La Pcroufe difplayed Angular bravery in
this combat, and was feverely wounded. . ^^
Rcftored to his couptry, he ferved in the fame rank
three campaigns more on board the Robattc : here
1
1
II
XXVI PRELIMINARY DTSCOUKSE.
he diftingiiiOied himfelf in feveral trying fitiiatiôhs|
and his rifing merit began- to attraél the attention of
his fupcriors.
Odober ift, 1764, he was promoted to the rank of
iignal officer. A man of a lefs active difpofition would
have enjoyed the fweets of peace ; but a paflion for
the pFofeffion wRich he had embraced, permitted
him not to remain unemployed. It is fuMcient, in
order to form a judgment of his indefatigable acti-
vity, to cad an eye over the outline of his military
and naval exiftence from that era up to the year 1777 ^
He was.
In 1765, on board the Adour, armed en flute; 10
1766, on board Le Gave, armed en flutes 1*^4^3
1767, he commanded T Adour, armed en ^ute 5
1768, he commanded the Dorothée y ^ ^iyM tnjp
1769, he commanded the Bugalet ; iâî^/aife
1771,00 board the Belle-Pdule; ^^ iff sagiuq
1772, ibid; •-'•^ ■^ ' '-*-' r ...J-jD-'ijHl-biSKjë
He commanded the Seme, en flute,
and Les Deux Amis, on the eoaft of
Malabo; his lieutenant^s commiit
lion bears date April 4th, 1777V
Î.'
jpff*
T
3773,
1774,
1775,
1770,
1777,
JV/
' The year 1778 rekindled the war between France
and England ; hoftilities commenced June 1 7th, by
the capture'of the Belle-Poule.
In the year 1 779, La Péroufe commanded the Aroa^
zone, one of the fquadron under the command of vice-
admiral d'Eftain-g. Appointed to cover the landing
of the troops at Grenada, he anchored within piftoU
fhot of one of the enemy's batteries. In the engage-
ment of this fquadron with that of admiral Byron,
he was charged with carrying the orders of the com-
mander in chief over the whole line. Finally, he
captured, on the coall of New-England, the Ariel
frigate.
-*:
PRELIMFNARY DISCOURSE.
XXVlt
fiigate, and affiftcti in the capture of the Expcri-
incnt.
Appointed Captain April 4th, 1780, he com-
manded the frigate Aftrea, when being on a cruize
with the Hermione, commanded by Captain La
Touche, he fought, July 2 Hi, a very obftitiate battle
with fix Englifh (liips of war, fix leagues off the north
cape of rifle Royale. Five of theje fhips, the Al-
legiance of 14 guns, the Vernon of the fiwnc force,
the Charleftowu of 2», the Jack of 14, and the
Vulture of 20, formed a line to receive them ; the
fixth, the Thompfon of 18 guns, kept out of can-
non (hot. The two frigates advanced together upon
the enemy with all their fails fet. It was feven
o'clock in the evening when the firft gun was fired.
They extended the Englifh line to leeward, to cut
off all hopes of efcaping. The Thompfoîi kept ftill
to windward. The two firigatcs manoeuvred id dex-
teroufiy, that the Englifll little fquadron was fooiv
thrown into diforder: in little more than half an
Jiour, the Charlefl:own, which bore the commodore's
pendant, and the Jack, were obliged to fi:rike ; the
other three fhips woukl have (hared the fkme fate; had
not the night favcd them from the purfuit of the
two fi-igates. "* '>
The year after, the French government formed
the defign of taking and deftroying the Englifh fet-
tlemants in Hudfon's Bay. La Péroufe was deemed
a proper perfon for executing this painful fervice, in
feas of difficult navigation. He received orders to fail
from Cape Français, May 31ft, 1782. He com-
manded the Sceptre, of 74 guns, and was attended
by the Afl'rea and Engageante frigates, of 36 gunS
each, commanded by captains De Langle and La
Jr-lUe : there were embarked on board this fquadron
200 infantry, 40 artillery men, four field pieces, two
mortars, and 300 bombs.
July 17th, became up with Refolution Ifiand ;
but
XXVIU
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
II
but fcarccly had he advanced 25 leagues In Iliidfon's
Strait, when he found his (hips entangled among
the ice, by which they received conliderable da-
mage.
Oh the 30th, after a confiant ftruggle with ob-
ftacles.of every fpecics, he got fight of Cape Wal-
lingham, fituated in the moù weftcrly part of the
ftrait. In order to arrive cxpediliouily at Fort Prince
of Wales, which he propofcd immediately to attack,
he had not a, linglc moment to lofc, the rigour of the
feafon obliging all vefîèls to quit thofe fens early in
September : but as foon as he had fairly entered
Hudfon's Bay he was involved in thick fogs ; qnd
on the 3d of Auguft, when it began to clear up, he
faw himfelf furrounded by ice as far as the eye
could carry, which forced hirn to make for the cape,
He triumphed nevert^clefs oyer tjicfe obllaclcs ; and,
toward evening on the 8th, having defcricd the flag
of Fort Prince of Wales, the French fliips made for
it, founding till they came \yithin a Ic^igue and a
half, and anchored in 18 fathom water, pn a bottom
of mud. An officer, fent to reconnoitre the ap-
proaches to the fort, reported that the yeïiçls could
be fafcly moored a little vvay*ofF. La Pcroufc hav-
ing no doubt that the Sceptre alone could not eafily
reduce the enemy, ftiould they refift, made prepara-
tion for efteé^ing a landing in the night time. Though
retarded by the tide and the darkncfs, t!ic boats
reached the land without meeting any oppofition,
about three quarters of a league from the fort. La
Péroufe, obferving no defenlive difpofition made,
though the fort appeared in a condition to make a
vigorous reliftancc, ordered the enemy to be fum -
moned. The gates were thrown open ; the gover-
nor and garrifon furrendered at difcretion.
This part of his orders being executed, he fct f'lil,
Auguft 11, for Fort York: in order to reach it, he
bad to encounter, dangers .Aill greater than thofe
which
PRELIMINARY DiSCOUllSB. XXlK
which he had hitherto experienced ; he failed in fix
or fcven fathom water, along a court of continued
rocks and quiekfands. After running through rifles
innumerable, the Sceptre and the two frigates difco-
vercd the entrance into Nelfon's river, and anchor-
ed, Auguft 20th, about /ive leagues from (hore.
La Péroufe had taken three decked boats at Fort
Prince of Wales ; he font them, with the Sceptre's
b»at, to reconnoitre Hayes' river, near which ftands
Fort York.
On the 21ft of Auguft, the troops' embarked on
board the boats ; and La Péroufe, having nothing to
fear from the enemy by fea, thought it his duty to di-
reél the debarkation in perfon.
The ifle of Hayes, on which Fort York ftands^ is
fituatcd at the mouth of a great river, which it di-
vides into two branches; that which pafles before
the fort is called the river of Hayes, and the other
Nelfon's river. The French commander knew that
all the means of defence were placed upon the for-
mer ; there was befides a veflcl belonging to the
Hudfon's Bay Company, carrying 24 nine pounders,
moored at the mouth of the river. He determined
on forcing his way up Nelfon's river, though his
troops would have, in this dire6lion, to perform a
march of about four leagues ; but he thereby gained
the advantage of rendering ufelefs the batteries plant-
ed on the river of Hayes.
He arrived on the evening of the 21 ft, at the
mouth of Nelfon's river, with 250 foldiers, the mor-
tars, the cannon, and provilions for eight days, that
there might be no neceflily to depend on the (hips,
the communication with which was extremely diffi-
cult. La Pérou fe gave orders for the great boats to
anchor in three fathoms water, in the mouth ol' the
river, and advanced himfclf in his long-boat, with
the fécond in command Langle, the commander of
the troops to be landed Roflaing, and Monnëroii,
■ . captain
^1
ui
IM'.
rtx
PRSLIMIKART t)I8C0U|lSf;.
captom of nrtillcry, to found the rivca* and examine
the banks, on which he apprehended the enemy
might have provided fomc means of defence.
• This operation demonftrated that the river wns ifi •
accelKble ; the fmallcft boats could get no neorer thon
about a hundred fathom, and the bottom from tbflt
to the dry land was a fo^t mud. He thought it pru-
dent, therefore, to remain at anchor, and to wait for
the return of day-light ; but the tide lofing much
more than he had reckoned upon, the bouts were
lefl dry at three o'clock in the morning.
Irritated by this obftaclc, but not in the leafl dil^
couraged,aU the troops difembarJced ; and after having
walked for near a mile in the miid up to mid-leg,
they at length gained a green field, where they drew
up : thence they marched in order towards a wood,
^'herc they laid their account with finding a path
which would lead to the fort. No one could be dif-
covered, and the whole day was employed in feek-
ing for roads which had no exiftence.
La Péroufe ordered Monneron, the captain of
engineers, to trace one by the compafs through the
middle of the woods. The execution of this ex-
tremely-painful fervice difcovered that there were
two leagues of a morals to be crofllèd, in which the
men frequently funk up to the knees in mud. A
gale of wind, which fprung up in the night, forced
the reftlcfs La Péroufe to return to the (hips. He
reached the fiiore ; but, the tempeft continuing, he
could not get on board. He availed himfelf of an
interval of moderate weather, and next day reached
his (hip, an hour before a fécond gale came on. An
officer, who fet off at the fame time with him, was
ihipwrecked : he had, as well as his boat's crew, the
good fortune to gain the land ; but they could not
return on board till the end of three days, naked
and perifliing with hunger. The Engageante and
the
*
((
îre were
PRBLIMINARY DISCOURSE. XXXl
the Aftrca loft two anchors each, in the fécond gale
of wind.
Neverthelefs the troops arrived before the fort on
the morning of the QAihy after a very troublcfome
march, and it was furrendered on the firft fummons.
La Péroufc ordered the fort to be dcftrayed, and the
troops immediately to re-embark.
Thefe orders were rendered ineffc6lual by a new
gale of wind, which expofed the Engageante to the
grcatcft dangers ; her third anchor broke, as well as
the tiller of the helm, and her longboat was carried
away. The Sceptre likewife loft hers, her pinnace
and an anchor.
At length fine weather returned, and the troops
were re-embarked. La Péroufe, having on board
the governors of forts York and Prince of Wales, fet
fail to bid adieu to thofe latitudes, abandoned to
llorms and ice, in which military fucccfs, obtained
without the flighteft refiftance, had been preceded by
fo much pain, danger, and fatigue. ^,
If La Pcroufe, a&« military commander, was under '
the neceflity of conforming to the ftri<Sl orders wJiich
he had received of deftroying the enemy's fcttle-
jnents, he forgot not at the fame time the refpeét due
to calamity. Having difcovcred that on his approach
fome of the Englilh had made their efcape into the
woods, and that his departure, confidering the de-
ftruélion of the fettlements, ej^pofed them to periili
with hunger, and to fall defencelefs into the hands of
favages, he had the humanity to leave thc^jfi provi-
iions and arms.
Can there be, on this fubjeâ, an elogium more
flattering than this fincere acknowledgment of :m
Englilh feaman, in his relatiçn of a voyage to Botany
Bay ? *^ We are bound to recolledl with,gratitu*:ki, in
" England efpecially, that humane and geaerous
** man^ for the condutâ which he obfcrved in a<iling^
under
9EXX11
l^nELI^flNÀRt DÏSCÔUllStf.
** under orders to dcftroy our fettlements in Hud-
" fon's Bay, in the courfe of the laft war." .k^ùm
After a. teftimony fo juft afid fo conformable to
truth, and at a period when the EngHfli nation haà
acquired fo much merit with the friends of the arts
and fciences, by her zeal td publiih the refahs of the
voyages of difcovery which fhe has Ordered, fhall wd
be under tlie neceflity of reproaching another Eng-
lifh military chàraéler with a breach of faith pledged
to La Péibufe ?
Governor Hearh had, iri 1 77'2'i perfcJi'mcd a joutney
over land, toward the north, taking his departure
from Fort .Churchill ; a journey of which the detailed
account is expeAed with much impatience. The
manufcript journal of it was found by La Péroufe
among the papers of that governor, who infilled that
it (hould be reftored to him as his private property;
This journey, however, having been undertaken by
orders of the Hudfon's Bay cciinpany, in the vievir of
acquiring farther knowledge of part ci{ North Aiuc-
rica, the journal might well be cdnfidered to belong
to that company, arid, cortfeqtiently, to have devolved
to the conqueror i neverthelefs. La Pcroufe, from
motives of pure benevolence, yielded to the folicita-
tions of Governor Hearn ; he reftored him the ma-
nufcript, but under the exprefs condition that he
would have it printed and publifhed immediately
upon his return to England. This condition does
rot appear to have been hitherto fulfilled : but it is
to be hoped that the remark now made, and laid be-
fore the public, will produce the effe6l intended, or»
at leafl:, induce the governor to make it known whe-
ther the Hudfon's Bay company, from an averfion to
have the proceedings of their commerce difcloled,
has forbidden the publication of it.*
* This anecdote had not come to my knowledge when* I wrote
the note to be found in a fubfequent part of this volume.
The
w-
#'
XXXIU
1 Hud-
lable ta
ion has»
;hc arts
s of the
(hall wei
er Eng-
plcdged
joutney
epafture
detailed
e. The
Péroufe
ifted that
pidpcrtyj
taken by
e vieviT of
:th Avjc-
o belong
devolved
fe, from
folicitu-
the ma-
that he
cdiately
Ition does
but it is
laid be^
idcd, or*
>WD whe-
erfion to
.ifcloled,
len'I wrote
The
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
The era of the re-eftabli(hment of peace with Eng-
land, in 1783, terminated this naval campaign. The
indefatigable La Pcroufe did not enjoy long repofe ;
a more important expedition awaited him : alas ! it
\vas to be his lafl. He was deftined to take the com-
mand of an intended voyage round the world, for
which preparations were making at Breft.
I (hall not conform to the common practice, by
indicating beforehand the track which our navigator
purfued through the two hemifpheres, the coafts,
and the illands, which he explored or revifited in the
Pacific Ocean, the difcoveries which he made in the
feas of Afia, and the important fervices which he
has rendered to geography : I make this facrifice to
the Reader, whofe curiolity will rather be excited
than anticipated, and who will undoubtedly be bet-
ter pleafed to follow our navigator himfelf in his
courfe.
Hitherto I have coniidered La Péroufe only as the
military man and the navigator : but he defervcs to ^
be equally known for his perfonal qualities ; for he
was not lefs capable of gaining the afFeélions of men
of all countries, or of commanding their refpeét, than
of forefeeing and overcoming the obftacles which hu-
man fkgacity is permitted to furmount.
Uniting to the vivacity of the inhabitants of
ibuthem countries, an agreeable humour and an even
temper, his gentlenefs and amiable gaiety made his
converfation to be always eagerly courted. On the
other hand, matured by long experience, he joined
to uncommon prudence that firmnefs of character
which is the portion of a vigorous mind, and which^
ftrengthened by the painful kind of life to which a fea-
man is doomed, qualified him for attempting, and for
conducing, with fuccefs, the molt arduous enter-
prizes. ^ ^
From the union of thefe different qualities, the
Reader, himfelf witnefling his inconquerable patience
Vol. L € in
XXXIV
.^■
#,
PHEttMtNAllY DISCOURSE.
in jeitértioii* governed by circumftanceis, tWifeVéré
cdridu6l which hisforefight ditîtatcd, the ifieafures of
bfécdiitibtl ^hith he ethpîôyed with the people whom
lie vitod, will not bie gi-eatly Mohiïhèd at theberte-
fîcéhl arid moderate, as Virell as circumfpe6l, b^àyi-
ôur of La Pérdufé toward thc^j at the cohfidencej
nay fometimès tnè deréretice, >^hich hé eXprëflèd fbf
iîk ôMcërS, atitî at the bàtfefnal iriarfe Avhich he exer-
cîféd over hiècré^s : notnrngthat could interleft thétn,
either by preventing their diftrei^, or prortiorting' thfeir
Welfare, efàâpèd his vigilance ôi- his folicitude. Not
tvifhihg to convert a fcientiltc enterprise intoa riiér-
Câïitile f^ëculatiôh, and lèâViilg eiltirely the profits bf
the ôbje(ftà bf interchange as a beiient folely to thié
feàth'en of the 'ci^éw, he referviéd foi* himfdf the fatis-
fa^f^iort of refi:é'aihg that îte had been ufpful to Ws
courrtly aild tb the fciences. PerFëétly well ïfecortdfed
in his attentions to the . prefervation of their health,
iiO ilUvi^tbr eVei- performed â Voyage of fo Tong du-
f^foirt, Si- bf 'fufch vaft extent, throngh ah jrlcciîànt
charijg'e tjf bliriiate, with çre%s fo healthy; ï'Ctv, bri
th^ir ârnVàï àt Nbw Hoïknd, iffer bfeing thirty
iWoh^h's at ^, ah^ rtltîVïing bVà- ^ track of mbre tha'ri
liîitreèii thouïàtid leagues, mty were in as good health
as when they left Bluett. ' ^ ' "f'^
> Maiter of himfdf,' and hevfei' giVing way tb flrft
?Ài|!)i^eiffîons, he ^as in â condit?ôïi to reduce to prac-
tice, eitJècial'ly on this expedition, the precepts of a
found phriofophy, friendly to humanity. Wèrfe
lïiore dïfporfed to cortipôfe his clogium, ftecefïàïily
ifolated and ijicafrnplete, than to leave "to the Reader
the pîeafurë df formitig an èftimate of him from faéls
clothed with all their d'rcû'i^ftanccs ; and of foùrid-
irig a judgment on his writings taken together, t
might qtibte a multitude of pafîàges from his jourrial,
the charadler and turn of which faithfully paint the
man, and whicli I have preferved as 'k precious trèa-
fuVe. I might fhciw him, in a pafrtiiiularfnaiiner, ad-
',: • héring
\Ti
''^H
narti
-Wk
Ti
'°H
is to
fwk
regre
r-^m
hlyc
they
^
PRSLIMIRART DISCOURSE.
XXXV
feVcfd
ires of
whoni
iberie-
àehayi-.
idenccj
fled fbi^
le exer-
ft them;
) a 1^^'
jrôfitsdf
y to thé
the fatis-
al to Ws
fecotidfed
ir îïéàl!<^>
Totig du-
; for, bti
g tïiirtj
ibrethaÎTl
ly to -fiift
[e to prttc-
iepts of a
Wèrfc
lecelîanîy
le Redder
from fafts
ûf foù^â-
lôgcthér, t
lisjburtial,
paint the
IcioUs trfca-
laiftflér, ad-
hering
r;
hcring Tcmpuloufly to that article of his i»ftru6lions,
engraven upon his heart, which directed him to avoid
the fhedding of a (ingle drop of human blood-; hav-
ing followed it conftantly through a voyage of fuch
length, with a fuccefs due to its principles ; and,
when attacked by a barbarous horde of iavages, he had
loft his fécond in command, a naturalift, and ten men
of the two crews, notwithftanding the powerful means
of vengeance which he jpoflèflèd, and motives fo ex-
eufable to employ them, he reftrained the fury of his
men, fearing to strike a fingle innocent vidlim among
thoufands of the guilty. ) H ?
Equitable and modeft, as well as enlightened, we
(hall fee with what refpedl he makes mention o( the
immortal Cook, and how zealous he is to do jufticc to
the great men who had preceded him in the fame
career.
E<}ually juA to all. La Péroufe in his journal and
in his correfp' -' lence, difpenfes with impartiality the
jraifes to vvhv' > coadjutqirs are entitled. Helike-
' wife makes g. . \.l mention of the ftrangers who,
in diffèrent parts of the world, received him with
kindnefs, and pmcured afliilance for him. If go^
vernment, as there is no room to doubt^ means to
fulfil the intentions of La Peroufe, it owes to thefe
laft a public token of acknowledgment.
Valued according to his worth by the Engliih na-
vigators who had an opportunity of knowing him,
they have given him an unequivocal teftimony of
efteem in their writings.
All who enjoyed his intimacy have pronounced his
juft elogium, but it would be endlefs to defcend to
particulars. ,^.. «<
To fpeak, however, of his virtues, of his talents,
is to recolleéfc his misfortunes, is to awaken our own
I regret : the idea of the one is henceforward infepara*
I bly conneded with the recolleélion of the other ; and
they lay the foundation for perpetuity of a monu-
6 2 " ' ment
'■*
XXXVl
PRELIMINART DISCOURSE.
ment of forrow and gratitude in the heart of every
friend of the fciences and of humanity. If I feel any
emotion of delight at the clofe of the painful labour
which this work required, and after the care and
trouble which it coft me up to the day of publica^
tion, it is undoubtedly at this in fiant, when I am per-
mitted to be the organ of the French republic, in
paying to his memory a tribute of national gratitude.
La Péroufe^ after his lafl letters from Botany Bay,
was to have gone to the Jdc of France, in 1778.*
The two following years having clapfed, the impor-
tant events which occupied and fixed the attention
of all France, could not divert her attention from the
fate which feemed to threaten our navigators. The
firft expreilions of folicitude on the fubje<Sl, the firil
accents of fear and forrow, ifTued from the bar of the
National Afîèmbly, through the organ cf the mem-
bers of the Society of Natural Hiflory. i\
" For thefe two years," faid they, " France has to
" no purpofe been lookii^g for the return of M. de
" la Péroufe ; and thofe who take an interefl in his
perfon and in his difcoveries, are totally in the dark
as to his fate. Alas ! that which they fufpeâ, is
perhaps Aill more terrible than tnat which he ac-^
tually endures ; and perhaps he has efcaped death
*• only to be fbbje(5ted to the inceflant torment of a
" hope continually reviving and continually difap-
** pointed ; perhaps he may have fufFered fhipwrccfc
" on one of the illands of tne South Sea, from whence
" he flretcbes forth his hands toward his country,
** and in vain experts a deliverer. ^ . . "
" It was not in the purfuit of frivolous objeéls, or
" for his private advantage*,that M. de la Péroufe has
** braved danger of every kind ; the generous nation
" which was to have reaped the fruit of his labours,
** owes him likcwife her interefl and her aid."
* See vol. ii. extraftS from Wo léttefs of La Péroufe, dated Bo- ^J
tany Bay, February 7th, 1788.
«We
(C
((
((
<c
i
»
*
#
i#
<{
(t
€t
PRELTMINAHY DISCOURSE. XXXVli
* We are already informed of the lofs of many of
his companions, fwallowed up by waves, or maf-
facred .by favages : cleave to the hope which re-
mains tous, of recovering fuch of our brethren as
may have efcaped the fury of the billows or the
rage of cannibals ; let them return to. our (hores,
** were they even to die of joy in embracing this land
*' of liberty. " . ; , - .
The demand of the Society of Natural Hiflory,
r-eceived with the moft lively interelt, was followed
up foon after by the law which dirededthe arming of
tvvo frigates to go in queft of La Pepoufe.
The motives which diékted this decree, the very
terms of the report difcover the tender and afFeéling
rntereft whjch our navigators had infpired, apd the
ardor with which, from a defire to find them ao^ain,
a lingle ray of hope was eagerly catched at, without
refleiâing on the great ^crifices which this voyage of
refearch demanded.
" For a long time our vows call for M. de la Pé-
** roufe, and the companions of his glorious, too pro-
^' bably, alfo, of his unfortunate voyage,"
" The Society of Naturalifts of this capital is come
'f to tear afunder the vail which you dared not to raife
" up ; the mourniiîg which they have announced is
" become univerfal ; and you have appeared to em-
" brace, with tranfport, the idea which has juft been
" fuggefted to ydu, of fending out ihips in fearch of
*f M. de la Péroufe. You have given orders to your
" committees of the marine, of agriculture, and .com-
merce, to prefentyou with their views mfpeking an
objed io deeply interefting : the fentiment which
appeared to determine your refolution, has likewife
" didated their opinion." *
" There fcarcely remains to us the confolation of
doubting on the fubjed: M. de la Péroufehas'
f' fuflfered fome dreadful difafter."
" It is impoffible for us reasonably to hope that
c 3 his
if
it
it
tc
et
]^^F
■#.
^'
*
xxxviii
PREtlMTINART DISCOURSE.
ff
Ï
*' his vçflèls are at this moment ploughing the fur-
** face of the deep. That navigator and his com-
*' panions are either now no more ; or elfe, thrown
^ on fome.difmal ihore, loft in the imineniity of
^ innavigable feas, and confined to the extremities
" of the world. They are, perhaps, contending
" with inclemency of climate, with ferocious animals,
" with men, with all nature, and calling for afïift-
" ance on their country, which can only fcwrm con-
** jcétures about the calamity which may have bc--
** fallen them. Stranded, perhaps they are, upon
** fome unknown coaft, upon Ibme barren rock ;
** there, if they have been fo fortunate as to fell inta
'* the hands of a hofpitable people, they breathe ;
** but neverthelefs, ftill implore your aid ; or if they
** have been cafl upon a bare folitude, wild fruita
** and fhell-filh are the only fupport of their cxift-
** ence :. fixed on the Ihore, their eyes travel along
** the face of the ocean in fearch of fome aufpicious
" iail which might waft them back to France, to
" their families, to their friends."
" Reduced to embrace an idea which is, perhaps,
" nothing more after all than a pleating error, you
"are difpofed undoubtedly, as we are, to prefer this
** conjeéhire to the overwhelming idea of their totat
"lofs: it is that which the Society of Naturalifts
** of Paris have juft prefented to you ; it is that
«which M. de la Borde had before imprefled on
every heart pofïèffing fenfibility, in a memorial
read before the Academy of Sciences.'* > '
" But if you are affeûed, if you are flruck with this
idea, it will be impoffible for you any longer to give
yourfelves up to impotent regret: humanity re-
quires it ; we muft fly to the rçlief of our brethren.
Alas! where (hall we go to look for them ? Whom
have we to interrogate concerning their dcftiny ?
Is it polfible to explore all the coafts of feas in fome
" meafure unknown ? Is it poflible to touch at a'l
' the
cc
(t
«
C(
tf
tt
(S
<(
^'
-. .f
#
PSBI.lMmi.EY PISGOVUB. xxx!i
^f the ifland* of thafe iipmenfc afcbipeleigos which
*f préfent <b many dangers to the mariner î Is it pof*-
« fible to vifit all the gulfs, to penetrate" into all the
" bays of the ocean ? Is it not even poffible, on
** reaching the ifland which might contain thcro, to
** land on one point, and leave them on another ?5^
/^ The difficulties are undoubtedly great, the fuc-
*« cefs is more than hopelefs.; but the motiye of the eii-
'^ terprize is powerful . It is poffible that our ill-fated
" brethren may be flretchin^ out their arms toward
*' us, it is not impoflSWe that we ihouhX reftore them
" to their country ; and henceforth are no longer
*^ permitted to recede from an attempt which cannot
" but do us honoiM?. We owe this intereft to the
" men who have devoted themfelves; we owe it to
" fciences, which are expééling the fruit of their re-
^' fearches : and, what ougiitto incrcafethis intereft,
" M. de la Péroufe was not one of thofe adventurers
^' who thruft themfelves on great enterprizes, either
to procure for themfelves an illuftrious nan'e, or
to make them fubfervient to the raifing of the r «for-
tune; he had not even difcovered the ambitioi^ of
*' commanding the expeditibn entrufted tto iis caire ;
f* he could have wiftied it had been in his power to
*' refufe it; and when he accepted the commande
^' his friends well Jknew that it wap an a^t of pure re-
" fignation '*
**^ Fortunately we know the track to bepurfued in
" a rcfearch fo painful; fortunately we can put iàtO
^* the hands of the peribns to be charged with this
" afFe6ting miffion, the conducing thread of the
" perilous labyrinth which they have to trace."
" The propofal of a refearch which humanity ,en-
** joins, cannot be carried to this tribune to be comr
batted by the maxims of parfimony, or to be dif^
culfed by cold reafon, when it ought to be decided
purely by feeling." . .
i>à" This expedition will be to M. de la Péroufe, or
c 4 « to
((
((
((
it
(e
6(
xl ^y-
PRBLIMINART DTSCOURSB.
%'
((
to his memory, the mod glorious reoompence with
" which you can honour his fervices, his felf-dedica-
" tion or his misfortunes. Thus it becomes a great
" nation to difpenfe rewards.**
«^t« Afts like this confer celebrity on the nation alio
*' which has the fpirit to perform them; and the fen-
*' timent of humanity which gives them birth, will
" characterize the age in which we live. It is no
*' longer to invade, and to ravage, that the European
" penetrates into latitudes the mod remote, but to
*' introduce into them enjoyment and benefits; it is
" no longer to rob them of corruptive metals, but ta
** fubdue thofe ufeful vegetables which contribute to
" the fupport and delight of human life. FiDally,^
** there will be feen, and the favage tribes will not
" be able to contemplate it without the mehing» of
" lympathy, there will be feen, at the extremity of the
" globe, pioufly afieélionate navigators demanding
** information with intereft, concerning the deftiny
** of their fellow failors, of the men and the deferts,
** of the caves and the rocks, and even of (helves and
" quickfands ; there will be feen on feas the mc^ per-
" fidious, in the linuolides of archipelagos the moll
''dangerous, around all thofe illands peopled with
" anthropophagi, men wandering about in fearch of
** other men, to precipitate themlelves into their
" arms, to fuccour and to fave them." '
Scarcely had the (hips difpatched in quefi of La
Péroufe taken their departure, when a report was
circulated that the Captain of a Dutch vefTel failing
through the Admiralty Iflands, to the weft of New
Ireland, had perceived a canoe manned by the natives,
who appeared to him to be dreiled in the uniforms of
the French marine.
General d*Entrecafteaux, who commanded the
new expedition, having 'put in to the Cape of Good
Hope, heard this report. Notwithftanding its want
of authenticity and of probability, he did not heiitate
" a lingle
'«
-.fr
TltBLIlllNART DI8COUB8B.
^
a fingle inilant; he changed the track which ho
had propofed to purfue, and flew to the place which
the report indicated. His zeal having bc«n foUowed
with no manner of fuccefs, he recommenced his le-
fcarch in the order prefcribed by his inftru£ti6ti%' -
and he iinifhed it without being able to obtain the
flighteil intelligence^ or any thing that had the Iha-
dow of probability, refpedtmg the fate of our unfor-
tunate navigator.
The caufe of the lofs has been reafoned upon in'
France, in various ways. Some perfons, unacquaint-
ed with the track which remained for him to purfuo
from Botany Bay, and which is traced in his laft
letter, have alleged that his (hips muft have been
caught in the ice, and that La Péroufe and all his
companions muft have periOied by a death of the
moil horrid form. Others have taken upon them to ^
affirm, that before his arrival at the Ifle of Franjce,
I toward the clofe of 1788, he had become the vidUm.
|of the violent hurricane which had proved fo fatal to
the Venus frigate, for (he was never more heard o^
^«nd which had entirely difmailed the frigate Reiblu-
tion.
Though it be impofîible to difpute the afïèrtion of
thefe lafi, at the fame time it ought not to be admit-
ted without proof. If it is not the true account»
La Péroufe muft probably have periftied through
ftrefs of weather, on the numerous (hallows which /
line the (hores of the archipelagos which he had yCt
to explore, and which General d*£ntrecafteaux aélu-
ally reconnoitred. The manner in which the two ;
frigates always failed, within reach of voice, muft
have rendered the fame accident common to bolh ;
they muft have (hared the difafter which had (b nearly
befallen them November 6th, 1786^ and been fwai-
lovved up before they could reach land.
The only hope which can remain is, that they may
have been (hipwrecked on the coaft of (bme uninhabit-
ed
#
km
•4 i^Und S il) tki9 c«f9 thoi^B^y Ml exiil romii indi^
yMMs ofthe two creinfs, or» orie^jf the innumtjrablo
ifiwMili of ^hoTe urçJiipeliçgQ»; Fat from the tracks
iitheito puf<He4, they may h^ve «fcaped all fcarch
VMldfe i^fthem, and m$y wver ag^in rcvifit their
«mnit'y* e^Qfspt i^om )tJ»«» eflfe^ftof ebancc whieh may
iboii % (hi|^ th^t iva^i ft9 ti)i9y «ve prc^iably deprivsci of
all «fi^birQ^si^r liuildiiii; one.
Wc cannot, however, but admit, the obfervation,
^klfit Ihe ^«giW pepform very loiig voyages in canoes
fimf>lyi nod WfJ m»y jwdgp, oo mrpeelingtlie chart,
Ifeot a* Oiir (hipwreok(^d ffiamen had got aihbre, whe^
Hm «^OR a d^«rt jflflnd, or among favages who
Ipirtd th«irU^ they mighfc, have been able, in the
C0|}^« of pioe years, to approach nearer and nearer
Ion place irom which th^y couM convey news of
tbewfolvQ*; for it i^ prob*bie, that they would have
Jittwipted^very thing to deliver themfelves from
t^iiaie of W»*»«ty md fequeftration inexpreflibly
wohfe ihfto ^th. If* theni out: hopes be not enT
jlipely Mf)ii^i«^dj they are »t ieaH extremely faint.
: A flftvig^tor has emitted a declaration of his hav-
ing proofs of the ihipwrcck of La Péroufe. The
•Relier wijl jydgeof the confidence due to them,
irofo h^ di^po&tion, of w^h I ihall giyt an exaâ
pQpy^ wjtbottt prefumiQg to mftke any other obferva-
taoattiian that of comprijig the author with himfelf,
flod 4i{ eontrafting hi& ftfiirmatian with the relatioi\
M Bougw«îviJle.
-tfki ■ ■ ' . ■ J il'y,'-
Exiraû from the Minutes of th* Municipal Court of the
1 City and Community of Morlaix,
>t€i
'** QfOFge Bpw«n, commander of the flaip Albc-
*' flf^rk, bowjid from Bombay to JU>ndon, and
<< brought into Morkiis^i htmg i^terr^ated whether
^< he i^ any ](^QOw|jsdge of X<a P^oufe, who had
>*< left Ffmfi^ 91^ * vpya^ rom3«l t^ie world, replied
"that
;jv
r^
Ê
^t*-
•t!s
%'
TRBtlMINARY UlftCOVlWa. xKîl
« that in December, 179'» ^^ himfolf faw, oil hif
« return from Port Jackfon to Bombay, brt thécôftO:
« of New Georgia*, in the eaftern ocean, the wr«cl;
« of M. de La Péroufe*» vôflel, floating on the wa-
« tcr+, and that in his opinion it wa» cart of à
« veflTel of French conftfuAion ; that he did not go
<* on ftiore, but that the natives of the country oam6
« on board his fhip î that h* could not comprehend
« their language, but that by thfeir fign* he had
« been enabled to undedland that a veflfel had oc^nô'
« aihore in thofé latitudes i that tliefe ijirtivet Un-
« derftood the ufc of feVerâl pieces of iron-worlf,
« of which thfey were curioufly fortd j' and that he,
« the Examinee, had exchanged fevetal articles- of
** iron ware with thofe' Indians, for glafs-warc and
** bows Î as to thé idharaéter' of thofe Imliano, that
** to him they appeared pea6eable:|:j and better in-
** formed than the inhabitants of OtSheitc, as they
*^ had a perfe<ft knovi^ledgc of works of iron ; that
" their canoes were fînifhedîn a verylUperior ftyle:
" that when the natives "werte on boavd his (hip, hé
" had not' as yet any knowledge of ' the wreck in
" queftioh, and that in éôafting along the land, he
•* perceived it by the help of a great fire kindled on
^' ll^ore, toward the middle of the i^ght^ of Decem-
T
f Seen again by Shortland, a lieutenant in the Engli<]b navy, in
Ï788 ; but difcovered in part by Bougainville, the captain of a
French ihip, in 1768; and ftill Urtber by Survillç, caf^ain of one
of the Eaft India Company's thips, who g^ve it the name of the
country of the Arfacides,— French Editor.
f La Péroufe could perith only in 17B8. I leave it to thofe who
are acquainted with the effeâs of the waves of the fea on a ihip»
wrecked velTel, to judge whether this wreck could ftill exilt floating
on the water, at the end of December, 1791. — French Editor.
X Thofe Indians, charaéierized as^ peaceable, attacked the boats
which Bougainville had fcnt aftiore for water, upon their coming
into Choifeul's Bay. — French Editor.
§ It IS undoubtedly furprizing, that the wreck feen by George
Bowen, and aflfirmed to be that of the veflel of La Péroufe, and of
French conftruélion, which fuppofes it to have been confiderable
in
#
-, ' ^%
#
*
XIÎV PBBLIMINARY DISCOURSE.
** ber 30, t7Ql ; that, but for this fire, he would
** probably have run aground on, the rocks of Cape
*.' Deception. The Examinee delares that, in all this
'5 part of New Georgia, he obferved a great number
** of cottages or huts ; that thofe Indians were of a
*f robuft form, and of a gentle character, from whence
**,hù prefumes that if M. dc I«a Péroufe, or any of
** hit fl)ip*s company, got on fhore, they may ftill
^ exift^i and that, to his knowledge» of all the (hips
<^ which have navisated in thofe latitudes, no one, ex-
f* cept thftt of M. de Bougainville, the Alexander, the
^ FriendOiip of London» that of M. de la Péroufe,
** tnd kis own^ were ever on that part of the coaft :
^ that of conieauence he prefumes this to be the
*• wreck of M. de La Péroufe*8vefrel-(-, as the Alex^
** «ider went to the bottom in the Strait of Macaila,
¥ and the Friçndfhip reached her port in England.
^ Being tnterrogated whether he had feen -on the
** natives of the country any article of drefs which
^ Indicated a eommunication with Europe, replied,
^ that thdê Indians were naked ; that the climate
is very hot, and that, by their iigns, he underiiood
that they mufk have feen ihips before that time ;
that .he perceived in the poileiiion of thof^ Indians
nets for Hiding, the threads of which were of
flax, and whoife mefhes were of European manu-
facture § ; that he had out of curioiity, taken a
u
#
u
k
1» in <|aantity, ind examined clofijy and with minute attention, k
here found to have been perceived only at midnight, by the light
of a fire kindled on the land.— -/rmc/& Editor,
* Bougainville, obliged to irepel by force, the attack of thofe
ladtaos» captured two of their canoes, in which he found among
other articles, a human Jaw half bmltdj an evident proof of their
teincmen-eaters,)— />«««& Editor,
fThe Engliih captain no longer ilates it as a matter of cer>
tainty, that the wreck which he faw, was part of the ihip of La
Péroufe ; it is now no more than fimply a prefumption.-— JFi-^r/^
Editor.
§ Bougain^lle found m the canoes which fell into his hands, netj
vjith
'P.
W'.
fniaH %
PRBLtMUfAHY DI8C0U1IB<
kW
•€^
" fmall piece of erne of them, from which it would
** be eaiy to judge that the materials and the workr
" manfhtp were both from Europe." . <
Such are, up to this day, the only indications ob-
tained refpeéting the fate of our navigator. - , ',
The public documents, always fubfifting, of the
track which he purfued, and of tl^ countries which
he viiited, are the medals flruck on occalion of hb
voyage, and left or dillributed by La Pérouic in tbo
courfe of his progrefs. There had been ; delivered
to him about a hundred, partly filver, partly copper^
and fix hundred of different metals. The remainder
of his route being known, thefe medals may cie Jlay
indicate to us nearly the place where bis diiafter iuitci'-
rupted it.
The medal relative to the voyage having betomc
an hiftorical monument, and being within- the pro-
bability ofprefenting itfelfto future navigators inthci
fame track, I cannot redd my inclination to defcriilfs
it, though I did not think myfelf bound to get it en*
graved. It has, on the one fide, the effigies of thd
king, with the ufual infcription ; the reverfc is io*
fcribed with thefe words, furrounded by tWo oIi\^
branches bound with a knot of ribband : ^ -y^
, ' <
Thefrigatei of the King of Frattcty Xd BouJoU ditâ
TAftrolahe, commanded by Mejfrs. de La Péroujh
and De LangUy failed from ihe port of Brefty itf
June, 1785.
■•■ -' ii\s
So many precautions employed to enfure the fuc-
cefs and authenticity of a great expedition, the ex-
penfe which it occafioned, the vexation and calami*
wth m^sof a very deKcate threud and mofl ijrtritHy woven. It il
probable that their perfeAncA led Gf<Jige Uowen into ao error.—
JFretuh EdUsr,
:. ■ ■ • if
i>
♦
-;f
1,»
' '' '
ty with which it is attended, will excite a doubt îrï
the minds of certain prejudiced ahd fyftematic gen-
tlenfen, whether this trouble and anxiety are com-
pensated by the reciprocal benefit which nations de-
riy# K ^-n yo3rBges of difcovery. Though I myfelf
have relufed to acknowledge as a benefit the intro-
duction of our domeilic animals, and of fome fari-
naceous vegetables among lavage tribes, comprired
to the fhifoiief refulting to them from the falfe or
fuî^erfîciàî notions which our principles fugged to
them^ and from the fudden communication of our
mariners and tulloms ; I fay, that after having given
thcin detached particulars of knowledge, which they
Hre infcapable to extend or to apply, vegetables and
animals which they neither preferve nor perpetuate^
to abandon them to themfeJves, is to render fruitlefs
the dcfire excited in them to know and to enjoj', it
59 to make them miferable; but that to inftruét
them waduàîfy in order to civilize them, to form
them Into orderly col^onies, before attempting to
khakc them p6R(hed nations, and not to communi*
tjate to them new wants and hew modes of ading^,
withotit givin^them, at the fame time, the means
of providing^ the one, and <Â ferving themlelves
advantageoufly oli the other, is to prepare and enfure
to their fKjfteri^ the happy refuits <m the eïcpanlion
pf the human faculties.
if there could refuît to us as to them iniconve-
hienoes from tht^é communications, when the- rela-
tions are fo different, the great advant^es which
the arts and fciences derive from voyages of difco-
very, cannol be reafonably difputed. Qyilized, man
feels the neceffity of proportioning his acquirements
in knowledge, and his eigoyments, to the capacity of
his underftanding, and to the extent of his defires.
The navigator, as he advances, difcovers new pro-
duélions beneficial to humanity ; he alcertains the
4ifferent points of the globe, and gives fecurity to
' ■■ -■■■■ -,-,.*■■ his
♦
1
his own l'otite and to tkt ôf otheffe ; hé têâchéé Utt
to form a judgment of otir fellov^ orèatureà frofti ft
greater nlimber of felatîdns, artd éVery ftep of his
)rogrefs is a new ap^iroximatiôn - té^Vftf ft .thè kttOW-
edge of man arid of nature. It is great, it is nobie',
thus to incur expenfe and to encounter danger for
the benefit of fociety at large, and for the increafe of
true riches.
If fome philofophers have condemned voyages irt
general, becaufe expeditions undertaken from am-
bitious and interefted views, have exhibited a6fs of
barbarity following in their train, it is undoubtedly
becaufe they confounded them with voyages merely
of difcovery, which have for their objedt the com-
munication of bleffings to favage nations, and the
ïi enlargement of the field of fcience.
'^ Thefe benefits, it will perhaps be alleged, are the
price of their blood, becaufe thefè favage tfibeSf
'3 are to be reflrained only by muftering a force, wfaich^
becoming fatal to the navigators themfelves, occa-
fions a double crime in the eyes of philofophy and of
nature.
Let us confult the navigators who have made
themfelves known by their moderation ; their rela-
tions demonftrate, that by employing the meanis
which prudence diélates, it is eafy to reflrain favages
by the difplay of force fimply : foon conceiving an
attachment, from benefits received, to navigators
whom they refpeél, they are fufceptible of gratitude^
and confequently of every other moral feeling.
Juflice mufl be done to the motive which haa
mifled thofe philofophers ; that refpeélabïe motive is
humanity. We ought, then, henceforth to be
agreed, as to the condudl of our navigators, in ob-
ferving their extreme tendernefs where the life of
favages is concerned, who deflroy one another on
the ilightefl pretext ; in contemplr.ting the ferocity
^ " of
#-
§•
%
Slviti PKELIMINART BISCOUBSE.
of theie laft, ibflened down by civilization, and the
immenie quantity of blood Ipared by the abolition of
human faerifices, (b ibocking to humanity, and yet
fi> generally praâifed among favage nations.
^15
•'a^,Jf;it'
'¥■■:■ ra-
il A 'Ji:,-i..
"15^.,
II
«
1
• ' f< I
'•fi.
xrn^
...... i;;r«f^
**(
.,,..r^
A*:
f RELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
xlix
DECREE
I
OP THE ,
NATIONAL ASSEMBLY,
bp FEBRUARY pTJi, l791.
THE National Àfîèmblyj hhving îieard the report
of the united Gomtnittees ipf agriculture, com-
merce, atid the marine, decrees,
'that the King bfe requefted tb iffue ordéfs io all
imbaiïàdors, t-clidcnts^ cbhfuis, national agents, em-
;mployed ât the courte bfiltit févefkl maritime powprs,
to ufe their influence ^ith the reipèétive iovereigns
It whofe courts they refide, in the name of burnanity,
ind of the arts and fcienees, to charge all nayigators
id agenfs whatever, who a^l under their inftrpcr
ions, in whatever place of the globe they may be,
^ut efpecially in the foutherij parts of the South Sea,
make every enquiry in their power refpedljng the
o French frigates Boujfoh and V AJirola];>e^ com-
janded by M. de la Péroufe, and a|fo refpec^ing
Lheir crews, in the view of obtaining fuel? informa-
tion as may afcertain their cxiftence or their fhip-
^reck ; to the end that, in cafe M. de la Péroufe
md his fellow navigators fhall be found or heard of,
lo matter in what place, all pofîîbîe affiltance may
)e given them, and means procured for affiftingthem
|o return to their country, as well as for enabling
mem to recover and carry off Whatever property they
nay p .flefs : the National Aflembly beconiing- bound
indemnify, and even to rewat-d, according to the
Importance of thé fervicé, the pferfoh or perfonS who
mil lend afliftance to thefe navigators, obtain infor-
lation concerning them, or fo much as procure for
•"ranee the reftitution " of fuch yapers qr clher eAdts
Vol. I. 4 0|'
%
n
'-*
:;.'!
%
1 PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS,
of whatever kind, which belonged, or might have be*
longed to their expedition.
Decrees, farther, that the King be requefted to
ilfiie orders for the equipment of one or more fliips,
on board of which (hall embark men of fcience, na-
turalifts and draughtfmen, and to inftruél the com-
manders employed in the expedition, to fulfil the
twofold million of fearching after M. de la Péroufe,
agreeably to the documents, rules and orders which
fhall be given them, and at the fame time to purfua
refearches relative to fcience and commerce, taking
every meafure to render the expedition, independently
of the enquiry after M. de la Péroufe, or even in the
event of recovering him, or of procuring intelligence
concerning him, ufeful and advantageous to navi-
gation, geography, to commerce, to the arts and
fciences.
Compared with the original, by us the Prefident
and Secretaries of the National AfTembly. At
Paris, this 24th of February, 1791.
(Signed) duport, Prefident ;
»••»;>««
J'
i.
DECREE OF
THE NATIONAL ASSEMBLY,
op APRIL 22d, 1791.
V r
THE National Aflembly decrees, that the relations
and charts fçnt by M. de la Péroufe, of part of his
voyage, up to his arrival in Botany Bay, be printed
and engraved at the expence of the nation, and that
this expence be defrayed out of the fund of two mil-
lions ordered by article xiv of the decree ofAugull
3d, 1790 ; 5 .,; -..
^.„ : Decrees,
,l:li: I
t have be*
juefted to
nore fliips,
ience, na-
the com-
fulfil the
la Péroufe,
ders "which
3 to purfue
rcc, taking
ependently
even in the
ntelligence
IS to navi-
e arts and
e Preiident
bmbly. At
pfident ;
ecretaric^
y.
i ^d I.
the relations
f part of his
, be printed
3n, and that
I of two mil-
;e of Augull
Decrees,
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. H
Decrees, that as foon as the edition fhall be com-
pleted, and as many copies fet apart as the King may
be pleafed to difpofc of, the reft fhall be fent to Ma-
dame de la Péroufe, together with a copy of the pre-
fçnt decree, in teftimony of the public fatisfaéîion
with M. de la Péroufc's devotednefs to the general
welfare, and to the improvement of human knowledge
and ufefiil difcovcry ;
Decrees, that M. de la Pcroufe fhall remain on the
>lift of naval officers till the return of the (hips dif-
Ipatched in fearch of him, and that his pay be remit-
|ted to his wife, conformably to the difpofal which he
had made of it previous to his departure.
Compared with the original, by us the Prcfident
and Secretaries of the National Aflembly. At
Paris, this 25th of April, 179I.
(Signed) REUBELL, Prcfident ;
GOUPIL-PREFELN •\
MouGiN-ROG^uEFORT [Secretaries
ROGER }
MEMORIAL FROM THE KING,
^ojerve as particular Injlru allons to the S'leur de la
i^^ Péroufe^ Captain In the Navy, commanding the Fri'
gates la Boiijfole and TJJirolahe.-^lQth June, 1785.
Ills Majcfty having given dire»5lions to equip in
|he harbour of Breft the frigates la Bonfible, com-
nanded by the Sieur de la Peroufc, and I'Aftrolabe
3y the Sieur de Langle, captains in his navy, to be
îmployed on a voyage of difcovery ; hereby notifies
b the Sieur de la Péroufe, whom he has appointed
tommnnder in chief of thefe two veficls, the particu-
br fervices which he will have to execute in the courfe
It the important expedition committed to his care.
d 2 The
in PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
The different objedls which his Majcfty had i^
view, when he ifïùed orders rcfpeding this voyage,
render it neceflary to divide the prefent infl:ru6tions
into fevcral heads, in order to explain with greater
clearnefs to the Sieur de la Péroufe, his Majefty's par-
ticular intentions as to each of the objeéls which are
to engage his attention.
The firft part will contain his itinerary, or the
fketcb of his voyage, according to the order of the
difcoveries to be made, or carried to perfeélion ; and
%q this will be annexed a colledlion of geographi-
cal and hiftoric notes, to ferve him as a guide in the
various refearches which he is to purfue.
The fecpnd part will treat oi' objeds ^dative tp
politics and to commerce.
The thifd will explain operations relative to aftro-
pomy, to geography, tp navigation, to phylics, and to
the different branches of natural hiftory, and will re-
gulate the feveral funtSlions of the aftronomers, the
naturalifts^ the hiftorians, the fcientiiic charaélers, and
the artifts employed in the expedition.
The fourth part will prcfcribe to the Sieur de la
Péroufe, the cqndu6t which it may be proper for him
to obferve with refpeft to the favage nations, and the
natives of different countries, which he may difcover
pr have occafion to vilit.
Finally, the fifth will indicate to him the precau-
tions to be obfcrved for the prefer vation of the health
of his crews *.
len
* The particulars detailed, in the original worlc, under each of
thefe heads, are numerous, ami to the generality of readers would
probably appear tedious and uriiicterefting. Inftead, therefore, of
giving an sxaél tranflation, the çaft<!M' thinks himfelf warranted to
prefent a concife and general view of de la Péroufe 's inftruétions,
that the reader may not be detained too long in the threfliold.
ç^ ^■*.^.»;*?»,if*ijf i
^Mi:r
,._ i./j.JUJ'uiv'î i^\:^l::Lj-^-:'j :.:;;J'i.,',rr'
w J " PART
c
th
ly had in
lis voyage,
[i{lru6tions
ith greater
jefty's par-
, which are i
geographi-
uide in the
i relative to
ive to aftro-
yfics, and to
and will re-
nomers, the
ira6ters, anà,
Sieur de la
Dper for him
)ns, and the
fiay difcover
the precau-
)f the health
. - .r >* î ■
, under each of
f readers would
d, therefore, of
îlf warranted to
e's inftru£lions,
threfliold.
^ï
•fART
iiRELIMINÀRY INSTRUCTIONS i t «S
PART FIRST.
Sketch of the Foyage,
ON leaving Breft de laPeroufe isdireéled to fteerfor
Madeira, and there take i n wine, and thence for St. Jago,
to complete his wood and water, andlay in rcfrefhments i,
he is to crofs the line in the 29th or 30th degree of
weft longitude from the meridian of Paris, and try to
hit Pennedo de San-Pedroj and fix its pofition ; td
proceed to Trinidad to wood and water, and on leav-
îing it to run into the latitude of Ifle Grand de la
oche, but to delift from looking for this ifland, if
he docs not fall in with it before reaching 50° weft
liongitude : He is to run into the latitude of Terre
*^e la Roche, Cook's Ifle of Georgia, and confine his
iifit to its fouthern coaft, hitherto inexplored. He is
"en to look out for Sandwich Land in about 57^
uth, and having afcertained its extent, to fteer for
aten Land, try to double Cape Horn, and anchor
Chriftmas Sound, on the fouth-weft coaft of Terra
el Fuego, and take in wood and water. In the
vent of being unable to get to the weft by the winds
nd currents that oppofe that pafîàge, he is to make
r the coaft of Brafil, touching if necefîàry at Falk-
nd's Iflands, which prefent a variety of accommoda-
ons to the mariner. He is afterwards to pafs Strait le
air, or double Staten Land by the eaft, in order to
f each Port Chriftmas Sound, which, at all events, was
"|o be the firft place of rendezvous for the fliips in
'^afe of feparation.
On leaving Chriftmas Sound, he is to fliape his
ourfe fo as to cut the meridian of 85° weft in tha
titude of 57° fouth, and purfue this parallel up to
5° of longitude, in queft of Drake's Port and Land.
e is then to proceed to cut the meridian of 105°
the parallel of 38°, and continue in it to 115°
d 3 longi-
liv J»IIBLIMINAIIY INSTRUCTIONS.
longitude, looking out for land faid to be difcovered
by the Spaniards in 1714. He is then to get into
the latitude of 27° 5' on the meridian of 108° weft,
looking out for Eafter Ifland, where he is to anchor,
and execute a particular article of his inftruélions.
He is thence to return to the latitude of 32° on the
meridian of 120° weft, and keep on that parallel to
135°^ of longitude, in fearch of land feen by the
Spaniards in 1773- Here the frigates are to feparate.
The firft is to proceed to the intermediate parallel
between l6° and 17°, and perfevere in it from 135°
to 1 50° to the weft of Paris, and then fteer for Ota-
heite, it being prefumable that in this track new in-
habited iflands may be difcovercd. The fécond fri-
gate, from the fame point of departure, is to run into
25° 12'' fouth latitude, and endeavour to keep in this
parallel, beginning at the meridian of 131° or 132*^,
and look out for Pitcairn's Ifland, difcovercd by Car-
teret in 1767» in the view of afcertaining its longitude,
becaufe the exaél knowledge of its pofttion would
ferve to determine that of the other iflands or lands af-
terwards difcovercd by Carteret. On leaving Pitcairn's
Illand, the fécond frigate is to fteer weftward arid
then to the north-weft, looking out in fucceffion for
the iflands of the Incarnation, of St. John Baptift,
of St. Elmo, of the Four Crowns, of St. Michael, and
of the Converfion of St. Paul, difcovercd by Quiros
in 1606, and fuppofed to be fituated to the fouth-eaft
of Otaheite. The fécond frigate will thus, in a north-
eaft courfe, arrive at the meridian of 1 50° weft, and
at 19° fouth latitude, and then fteer for Otaheite,
where it is prefumed both veftels may arrive about
the end of April ; and this to be their fécond place
of rendezvous. ^
De la Péroufe's ftay at Otaheite is limited to one
month ; he is then to vifit, on his way, the iflands of
Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, Bolabola, and the other
Society Iflands, to procure fuppl'^mental provifions
to
iiP
difcovereJ
3 get into
108° weft,
to anchor,
iftru6lions.
32° on the
: parallel to
;en by the
to feparate.
iate parallel
from 135^
eer for Ota-
ack new in-
3 fécond fri-
, to run into
keep in this
Bi^or 132*^
ered by Car-
ts longitude,
fition would
s or lands af-
ing Pitcairn's
Tllward arid
ucceffion for
John Baptift,
Michael, and
;d by Quiros
:hc fouth-eaft
IS, in a north-
50° weft, and
for Otabeito,
J arrive about |
• fécond place
imited to one
the iflands of
and the other
tal proviftons
to
M
^ïlËLIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. Iv
to furnifti the inhabitants with ufeful European ar-
ticles, to fow grain, to plant vegetables, trees. See.
which might hereafter aftbrd fupplies to the naviga-
tors of thofe remote feas. He is to fteer to the north-
weft, from the Society Iflands, to get into the lati-
tude of the iftand of St. Bernard of Quiros, about
1 1° fouth, but not to purfue his fearch after it be-
yond the meridians of 158° to 102° weft longitude :
he is then to get into the parallel of 5° fouth, and to
the meridian of l66° to 107°, and then fteer to the
fouth-weft, and, in that dirc(5lion, crofs the fea which
wafhes the northern fliores of the archipelago of the
Friendly Iflands, where he will probably find others
inhabited which have not yet been vifited by any Eu-
ropean. He is to look for the ifland of Bella Nacion
of Quiros between the parallel of 1 1° and that of 1 1°
30', from the meridian of 169° to 171° longitude;
and for the Navigators' Iflands of Bougainville one
after another, and thence proceed to the Friendly
|Ifles for refrefhments. He is then to get into the la-
ftitude of the Ifle of Pines, fituated on the fouth-eaft:
point of New Caledonia, and afcertain whether that
land be a fingle ifland, or compofed of feveral. If
he can make Queen Charlotte's Iflands, he is to try to
reconnoitre the ifland Santa-Cruz of Mendana, and
determine its extent fouthward. Should contrary
winds prevents this, he is to make for Deliverance
Iflands, and afcertain whether the Terre des Arfacides,
difcovered by Surville in 1769, is not compofed of a
clufter of iflands, which he will endeavour to particu-
larize. P>om Cape Deliverance he is to fteer for En-
deavour Strait, and in paflling it, try to afcertain whe-
ther the land of Louifiade be contiguous to that of
New Guinea, and examine the hitherto inexplored
coaft from Cape Deliverance to the ifland of St. Bar-
tholomew. He is defired to furvey the gulf of Car-
pentaria, paying clofe attention, at the fame time, to
the ftate of the north-weft- monfoon, fo as to make
d 4 fure
!(
Ivi PnELIMINARY IN5XBUCTI0NS.
fure of his paflage rouncl thp fputh-w^lV point of the
ifle of Timor beifore the txycMticth of Novcrnber.
In cafe he Ihcjuld npt have be.en able to procure re-
frefhments, whercs ne may have touched (ince he left
the Friendly Illc^, he is to. ftpp at Prince's Ifland, at
the entrance o.f the ftri^its of Sui^da. On leaving it,
and quitting the channel to tjic north of New Hol-
land, he will Ihape his courfe fo as to exan>\ne the
vveflern coaft of tha,t jand, and begin his furvey as
near the equator as the wind will pendit. He is then
to take a more particular infpcétiun of its , foythern
coafl, which will bring him to the extremity of Van-
Dienian's Land at AflYen,turp Bay, or Frcdric-Henry
Bay ; from whence he wjll m§kc for Q)ofc's Strait?,
and anclior in Queen -Ch(ar|qttc's Sqund (ituated in
tiia^ (Irait, which fepara,tes_ the two iflands whereof
New Zealand is formed. This port is to be the third
place of rendezvous to the flïfps in cafe of feparation.
Here he can rçlit, and provide himfelf with refrçfh-
rrients, wood, and water. It is prefumed thjit he mpy
be in a condition to fail frpm this port early in March,
1787.
On leaving Cook's Straits, he is to get into the pa-
rallel of 41** to 42°, and keep in it till he reach the
meridian of 130** weft. He is thence to ftand to the
north, in order to get to windward, and into the la-
titude of the Marqucfas, where he is to ftop, and
take in necefîàries in the port Madre de Dios pn the
weft coaft of Ifte Santa Chviftiana, called by Cook
Refolution Bay. This is to be the fourth rendez-
vous in cafe of parting company. About two months
are allowed for this pnliage.
On quitting the Marqnefus, if the wind permits,
he may vilit fomc of the iflands to the eaft of Sand-
wich liles, he is then to proceed to thefe laft and lay
rn provifions, but to make no ftay. Thence he is to
make the bcft of his way toward the north-weft coalt
of America, ftauding to the north as f^r as, 30^, to
get
•ocurc rc^
ce he left
Ifland, at
leaving it,
vcw Hol-
irnine the
furvey as
le is then
1 . ibythern
ty of Van-
ric-Henry
i's Strait^,
[ituated in
s whereof
e the third
feparation.
th refrçih-
lat he may
in March,
mto the ,pa-
reuch the
and to the
:ito the la-
ftop, a,nd
>ios on the
:l by Cook
th rendez-
wo months
id permits,
t of Sand-
ift and lay
ce he is to
-weft coaft
as 30^ to
get
» '^1
prbliminAry instructions. Ivit
^et ontpf the trade windg, and gain that coaft in the
latitude 36° ac/, at Punta de Pinos, fouth of Port
Monterey. He is fuppofed to reach this from the
10th ta the 15th of July. In profecuting his rc-
fearches he is to avoid the parts which have been fur*
vcyed by Cook, but carefully to examine whether
there muy npt be fome river, gulf, or inland lake,
forming à, communication with Hudfon's Bay. He
is to purfue his furveys up to Behring's Bay and
Mount St. Elitis, viftting ports Biicarelli and de lots
Remedios, difcovcred by the Sipaniards in 1775.
Hence he is to dirc<Sl his courfe toward the Shumagin
Iflands, near the pcninfula of AJaika, and then vifit
the archipelago of the Aleutian IHands, and after
them the tvv:o. clufters of iflands to the vvcftward,
whofc number and true pofition.are unknown, and
which all together forn), with the coafts o( Aiia and
America, the gnrnd, northern bufin or gulf. Having
completed this furvey, he is to flop at port Awatfcha,
;or St. Peter and St. Paul, on the fouth*ea%rq*cxtrc-
niity of the pcninfula of Kamtfchatka, which he may
reach toward the 1 5th to the 2Qtb of September ; and
this port will betfcbe fifth rendezvous in cafe of fepa-
ration. Here he will provide himfelf with nccelia-
ries,and procure information requifite toward making
fure of provilionson his return thither in 1788 ; and.
order matter^ fo us to be ready to put to fea by the
10th of Oaobcr.
He is to coaft along and examine. all the Kurile;.
Iflands, the north-eaft coaft, the eaft, and the fouth
of Japan ; and, according to the ftate of the wea-
ther, extend his refearcbes to the iflands on the eafl:
and on the fouth of the Japanefe, and to the Lekeyo
Iflands, as far as Formofa. This furvey finiflied, he
is to put into Macao and Canton, or Manilla, accord-
ing to circumftances. This port will be the fixth:
rendezvous in cafe of feparation. It is prefumed he
may reach it by the. end of 1787. . „,.
Here'
• i -
J
I I
Here he is to refit and victual his fliipp, and wnit
in port the return of the fouth-wcft moiifixjn, which
nfuully fcts in about the beginning of March, with
permiiflfion, however, to remain till the firft of April,
ii' the crews have need of longer refl, and if he fliall
judge that a navigation northward would be hazard-
ous prior to that period. From this port he is to
ihape his courfe To as to pafs through the (Irait which
feparates Formofa from the coaft of China. He is
carefully to examine the wcftern coaft of Corea, and
the guÛ of Hoan-hay, taking care not to (land in
too far, but always to keep it in his power cafily to
weather the fouth coaft of Corea with a foulh-wcft
or fouth wind. He is then to examine the callcrn
coaft of this peninfula, that of Tartary, where a pearl
fifhery is eftablifhed, and that of Japan oppofite to it.
He is to pafs the ftrait of Teflby, and vifit the lands
known by the name of Yeflb, and that which the
Dutch call Staten Land, îind the RuflJians the Ifle of
Nadezda, of which we have no certain information,
He will now finifh his furvey of the Kurilc Iflands,
and force his way through the frith which feparates
fome of them, as near as poflible to the fouthcrn
point of Kamtfchatka ; and come to an anchor in
the port of Awatfcha, the feventh rendezvous in cafe
of feparation. i> :;.*b
Having there refitted and victualled, he is to put
to fea early in Auguft, and run into the latitude of
37*^ 3(y north, on the meridian of 180°. Hence he
is to ftccr weftward, looking out for land faid to be
difcovered by the Spaniards in 1610, and to profccutc
this refearch to the meridian of 105° eaft : he is then
to fteer fouth-wcfl, and fouth-fouth-wcfl, looking out
for the iflands fcattered over thofe Teas to the north-
eall of the Marianne Iflands. He may put into Ti-
nian, but regulate his flay there, and his courfe after-
ward, by the north-eafterly nionfoon, which does not
fet in, to the north of the line, till 0(5lober, fo that, on
; . leaving
10(1 waîl
n, which
•ch, with
:)f April,
' he (liall
haziirci-
he is to
lit which
He is
orea, and
iland in
cafily to
3ulh-well
ie cnllcrn
re a pearl
>fite to it.
the lands
'hich the
he Ifle of
ormation,
e Iflands,
feparatcs
fouthcrn
anchor in
us in cafe
is to put
atitude of
Hence he
faid to be
profccutc
lie is then
oking out
;he north-
it into Ti-
urfe aftcr-
1 does not
fo that, on
leaving
MBLIMtNARY ÎNSTHUCTtOÎÎS. Iljt
leaving Titican, he may have it in his power to furvey
the New Carolinas^ to the fouth-weft of Guaham, one
of the Mariannes, and to the cad of Mindanao, one
of the Philippines. This furvey to be purfued us far
as St. Andrew's Iflands. He is after that to flop a fort-
night at Mindanao to take in provifions and refrelh-
ments; then to fleer for the Moluccas, and anchor
at Ternate to take in farther fupplics. As the nion-
foon will not permit him to pafs the Straits of Sunda,
he mufl: avail himfelf of the variable winds near the
equator, to pafs between Ceram and Bourro, or be-
tween Bourro and Bouton, and endeavour to force a
paflage between fome of the iflands to the eaft or
weft of Timor. Having then probably run beyond
the parallel of 10^ fouth, he will find himfelf out of
the north-weft monfoon, and be able with eafe, with
the wind from the eaft and fouth-eaft, to make the
Ifle of France, which will be the eighth rendezvous
for the fliips in cafe of feparation.
He is to remain there no longer than is abfolutely
neceflary to prepare for his return to Europe. On
leaving it, he is to run into the mean parallel between
54** and 55° fouth, and look out for Cape Circumci-
fion, difcovered in 1739 by Lozier Bouvet. CroiTmg
this latitude at 15° eaft, he will continue in the fame
parallel to the meridian of Paris, or of no longitude,
and then give up the fearch. Should he then judge
that the (hips are not fuffieiently provided with ne-
ceflàries, he is to put into the Cape of Good Hope
to fupply them. This to be the ninth rendezvous in
eafe of feparation.
He is to endeavour, on his return to Europe, to
make Cough's Ifland, and thofe of Alvarez, of Trif-
tan d'Acunha, of Saxenberg, and Dos Picos, and if
he find them, afccrtain thar true pofition. He will
then fleer for Brefl, where he will probably arrive in
July or Augnft 178g.
Though this is the track flcetched for M. de la Pé-
roufc.
It p *_
it' ' PiEilMINARY XKStBUGTIONS.
roufe,1n his Majefty's iriflru6lions, he is veiled never-'
thelefs with a ailcretionary power of deviating from
it according to circumftances, provided that the main
«►bjeél of tlie expedition be kept continually iii view.
PART SBCOIÏD.
A :r r
H
OhjeÛs relative to Politics and Commereei
I. The ftay which the Sienr de la Péroufe is iè
make at Madeira^ and at St. Jago, will he too fhort
to admit of his obtaining exaél information refpeél-
ing the ftate of thofe Portugueze colonies ; he will,
however, procure intelligence refpe<Sling the force
which Portugal keeps up in them, refpeéling the
trade which the Engliih and other nations carry on
there, and refpeéling the leading obje(^s which it
may be interefting to k«now. ,,;, ,,' ' | r
II. He will afcertain whether the Engliih have en-
tirely evacuated Trinidad, whether Portugal has form-
ed an eftablifliment in it, and of what it coniifls.
HI. Should he hit the Ifle Grande de la Roche, he
will fatisfy hinifelf whether it contains any fafe and
commodious harbour, capable of fupplying wood and
water ; what accommodation it prefents for the for-
mation of a fettlement, in cafe the fouthern whale-
^(hcry ihould attra<!^ French adventurers that way ;
whether there is any poil which could be eaiily for-
tified, and defended by a fmall garrifon, at a diilance
fo great from France.
IV. He will examine Georgia in the fame view.
But this ifland, being in a higher latitude, "prefents
lefs attraélion, and the ice which obilruéls the navi-
gation during part of the year, would probably dif-
courage the fidicrmcn from making this a place of
rendezvous or retreat. -; , f r : . , i ^ I < .. »
V. The iflands of the great equatorial Ocean pre-
fcnt few fubjeds of obfervation relative to politics
and commerce, from their immenfe diilance, except
perhaps
m
i
»3
me view.
?REHMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. Ixi
perhaps to the crown of Spain. M. de la Përoufe
is, however, dire<Sied to attend tQ the dimate, and
the produfftions of the different ifles of that ocean
which he may vifit, to the manners and cuftoms of
the natives, their religion, form of government, mode
pf making war, arms, veflels, diftindive charaéler of
each tribe, what they have in common with other
favage, and with civilized, nations ; and the particu-
iar diftindion of each. In fuch of thofe iflands as
have been viiited by Europeans, hé will endeavour
to find out whether the natives could didinguifh the
different nations of their vifitors, and what opinion
they may have formed of each of them in particular,
^c will enquire what ufe they have made of the va-
rious articles of merchandize, metals, tools, ftufFs,
&c. introduced into their country. He will inform
himfelf whether the beads and birds left by Captain
Cook in fome of them have multiplied ; what Euro-
pean feeds and pot-herbs have thriven bed ; what
mode of culture is employed by the iflanders ; and
what ufe they make of the produce. He will exa-
mine the fadls related by former navigators, and fup-
ply their omiiîions.
At Eafler Iflarjià he will fatisfy himfelf whether the
human fpccies is there on the decreafe, which Cap-
tain Cook's obfei*vation and belief render credible.
On touching at Huaheine, he will try to get ac-
quainted with Omai, whom the Englilh navigator
iettlcd there in the courfe of his third voyage, and
learn what treatment he received from his feilow-
iflanders after the Englifh were gone, and what ufe
he himfelf had made of the knowledge he mufî have
acquired in Europe, tow ard the improvement of his
own country.
VI. In his furvey of the iflands of the great equa-
torial Ocean, and thecoads of the continents, fhould
he meet at fea any vefîèls belonging to a foreign
power, he will condud himfelf conformably to the
• - modes
jxa PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
modes of behaviour eftablifhed among polifhed and
friendly nations ; and on meeting any fucb in a port
pertaining to a nation confidcred as favage, he will
concert meafures with the commander of the foreign
veflel, efFeélually to prevent all altercation between
the crews which may happen to be on (bore together,
and to fecure mutual affillance in cafe either fbould
be attacked by the iflanders.
VII. In his viiit to New Caledonia, Queen-Char-
lotte's Iflands, the land of the Arfacidcs, and Loui-
liade, he will carefully examine the natural produc-
tions of thofe countries, which being lituated in the
torid zone, nnd in the fame latitude with Peru, may
open a new field of commercial fpeculation, and,
without trufting to the exaggerated accounts given
by the ancient Spanifh navigators of the fertility and
riches of fome of the illands which they difcovered
in this part of the world, he will obferve only that ap-
proximations founded on geographical combination,
and on information derived from modern voyages,
furnifh room to think that the land difcovered by
Bougainville in 1768, and by Survillc in 176q, may
be the illands difcovered by Mendana in 1567, ^"^^
fincc known by the name of Solomon's Iflands, from
their real or fiippofcd fruitfiilncfs.
He will examine, with equal attention, the north
and weft coafts of New Holland, thofe parts particu-
larly which, being within the torrid zone, may par-
take of the productions peculiar to countries fituated
in the lame latitudes. • ::!;r.i:n"t :LK.vyr î ,
VIII. He will have to repeat the fame enquiries at
the iflands of New Zealand, of which the relations
of Englifh navigators have given an ample detail.
But, during his flay in Queen-Charlotte's channel, he
will make it his bullncfs to find out whether England
has formed or proje6led any fcttlement there, and in-
form hiinfelf or Lhe fpot refpccting the llatc, ftrength,
and object, of fuch eftablillimeiit.
..X. If
I . '1/
m
m
led and
I a port
he will
; foreign
between
ogether,
r ihould
;n-Char-
id Loui-
produc-
'A in the
eru, may
on, and,
nts given
tility and
ifcovered
that ap-
ibination,
voyages,
*vercd by
769, may
567, and
nds, from
he north
parti cu-
niay par-
s iituated
quirics at
relations
)le detail.
annel, he
England
, and in-
ftrength,
i.X.
u
PRELIMINART INSTRUCTIONS. îxîÏÏ
IX. If in reconnoitring the north-weft cwaft of
America, he (hall fall in with any forts or fa^ories
belonging to his Catholic Majefty, he fhall carefully
avoid giving offence to the officers commanding fuch
fettlements, and improve the ties of blood and amity
which unite the two fovereigns, as the means of pro^
curing fuch affiftance and refrefliments as the country
may afford lîe will endeavour to obtain information
refpeaing the ftate, ftrcngth, and objeél, of thofe
Spanifh fettlements. He will enquire at what lati-
tude peltry becomes procurable ; what quantity tiic
native Americans are abJe to furnilh ; what articles
are beft adapted to the fur trade ; what conveniency
prefents for forming an eftablifhment on that coaft,
fuppofing this branch of commerce were to engage
the attention of the French merchant, in the profpe^t
of importing peltry into China, where it would find
a certain market. He will likewife procure informa-
tion re (peeling the fpecies of Ikins to be purchafed,
-• and vvhether that of the otter, which fetches the
higheft price in Alia, is the moft common in America.
He will bring to France famples of all the different
furs he is able to procure : and as, in the profecution
of his voyage, he is to {top fome time in China, per-
haps touch at Japan, he will inform himfelf what
fpecies of Ikin promifes to have the eafieft, fafeft, and
moft lucrative fale in thofe two empires, and what
benefit France may derive from this new branch of
commerce. Finally, he will endeavour, during his
ftay on the coaft of America, to difcover whether the
Hadfpn's Bay fettlements, the forts or fadlories of
the mterior» or any province of the United States,
have opened through the imervention of wandering
favages, any intercourfe of - ommerce or barter with
the tribes on the weft coaft. • ' - -. v^ ;» i ,.
X. It is probable that in vifiting the Aleutian
1 (lands, and the other clufiers to the fouth of the
great bafin of the north, he may fall in with fome
. / Ruffian
ma
Jxîv PRELIMIXÂÎIY ÏXSt'kÛCl'IONS.
Rufîîan rcUleiTients. He will try to find 6lit their
conftitutron, thfcif force, their objc6t ; what is the
navigation of the Ruffians in tl^ofe feas, what flîips,
what men they employ ir» it? how far their com-
jnerce extends ; whether any of thofe iflcs acknow-
ledge the fovcreignty of Ruffia, or are all indepen-
dctit ; finally, whether the Rikffians have not been
advancing nearer atid nearer to the continent of
Aorjerica. He will avail himfelf of his ftay at Awat-
icha to extend his information on thefe particulars,
and to procure, at the fame time, all pojflible light
refpe6ling the Kurile Ifles, the land of JcfJb, and the
empire of Japan.
XI. He will ejçamine the Kiiriîe iiles and the land
of Jefib with all poffible cirGumfpej5\ion, not only in
the view q{ obje*6ts relative to navigation in feas un-
J:nmvn to Europeans^and underftood to be tempeftur
ous, but alfo in coniideration of the intereourfe which
may take placte with the inhabitants of thofe coun-
tries, whofe character aiid manBriu mud have an af-
finity to thofe of thjB Japanefé, who may have fub-
jugatcd part of them, and maintain a communication
with the rcfi. As Ruffia extends her fovereignty over
only fome of the Kuriles, adjacent to Kamtfchatka,
he will examine whether, among the fouthern and
independent iflands, fome one may not be found on
which, in cafe pf a peltry trade being opened for
Frarxe, it might be pofifible to form a fettkmerit or
factory, which could be fecured againft every infult oq
the part of the iflanders.
XII. He will reconnoitre the eafl: and north-eafi:
coaft of Japan) and anchor in fome of its ports, to
obtain certain information whether its government
aïftually oppofes invincible obfiacles to all cfmblilli-
nient, to every operation of cqmmercc or barter on the
part of the Europeans ; and whether, by the attrac-
tion of peltry, an object at once of utility and luxurv
10 the Japanefcj it might not be |)aiîible to prevail
i .,. .. oil
^beo
[acqi
Iflcs
pil
)n
f)\it their
it is the
lat iliips,
cir com-
acknow-
indepen-
not been
Linent of
at Awat-
irticulars,
ble light
>, and the
I the land
ot only in
1 feas un-
tempeflu-
iffe which
ofe coun-
ave an af-
have fub-
mnication
gtity over
ntfchatka,
hern and
found on
3cned for
lemerit or
y iiifult on
north-eafi:
ports, to
)vern merit
cfuibliili-
rter on the
he attrac-
nd luxui'v
to prevail
on
\t
PREf-IMINARY INSTRUCTIONC. IxV
on the ports to the eaft and north-eaft, to admit vef-
fels loaded with this commodity, and to give in ex-
change the teas, the filks, and the other productions
of their foil, and the articles of their manufaélure.
xiii. On his arrival at Macao, he (hall take the
mcafures neceflTary to facilitate his wintering at Can-
ton. For this purpofe he will addrcfs himfelf to the
Sieur Vieillard, his Majefty's conful in China, and
engage him to take the proper fteps with the Chinefe
government to obtain permifîion. He will avail him-
felf of his ftay there, to acquire accurate informa-
tion rcfpeéting the rétual ftate of commerce between
European nations and Canton, under every relation
which it is of importance to know. He will procure
intelligence of every particular that may affift his far-
, ther navigation in the feas north of China, on the
[ coafts of Corca and eaft Tartary, and all the other
Uands to be vifited in thole parts. He will fecure, if
poffible, a Chinefe and Japanefe interpreter, and a
^^uffian one for his fécond call at Avvatfcha ; making
fn agreement with them for the time they are to be
- in the fervice of the fhip, and on his return, will put
them athore at Mindanao or on the Moluccas.
XIV, He mufl be apprized, that Japanefe pirates
f(-metimes fwarm in the fea furrounded by Japan,
Corea, and Tartary. The feeblencfs of their veflels
renders no other precaution necefiary, except being
on his guard againft furprize by night : but it might
be of advantage to hail one of them, and engage him,
by prefcnts and promifes, to pilot his Majefty's (hips
on the excurfion to Jcflb, part of which is fuppofed
to be under the dominion of Japan ; in pafling the
ilraits of Tciiby, with which the Japanefe muil be
acquainted ; and in reconnoitring fuch of the Kurile
. Illes as they are in the habit of frequenting. Such
pilot might likewife be ufeful in viliting fome port
n the welt coaft of Japan, in cafe circumftances
ould not have permitted him to land on any point
Vol, I. e * of
<,
lU
)!,t i \l I
liiN
Ixvi PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
of the eaft or north-eaft coaft. But whatever ufe may
be made of fuch pilot, he is not to be trufted impli-
citly. M. de la Péroufc will likewifc, if poflible,
engage fomc fifhermcn of the Kuriles to pilot him
through the iflands adjoining to Kamtfchatka. He
will thus endeavour, in flanding northward, to com-
plete his furvey of the iflands which he could not re-
connoitre on his way from Awatfcha to Macao, and
to fupply on the weftern coaft of Japan, what he was
not able to accomplifh on the euft and north-eaft.
His furvey of the coafts of Corea and Chinefe Tar-
tary muft be taken with great circumfpcélion ; the
Chinefe government being extremely punélilious, he
ought not to dil'play his colours on that coaft, nor
permit any operation which might give oftence, left
it fhould be refentcd on French Ihips trading to
Canton.
XV. In examining the Carolina Iflands, known only
by name to moft of the nations of Europe, he will
take care to inform himfelf whether the Spaniards
have formed any fettlement there. He will endea-
vour to acquire the knowledge of the produélions of
thofe iflands, and of all thofe which he may difcovcr
to the norih-caft, and to the weft-fouth-weft of the
Mariannes.
XVI, In flopping at Tinian he vvil! procure infor-
mation refpeéting the fettlements, the ftrength, and
the commerce of the Spnuiards in thnt archipelago
and its vicinity. He will make the fame inquiries at
Mindanao, to Icaj-n, as far as pofîibie, the political,
military, and commercial ftate of that natiori in the
Philippine Iflands.
xvii. During his ftay at the JMolucca;'! he will care-
fully intbrm hin)l'clf relpcélinfr the fituUici and the
commerceof the Dutch in thofe iflands, ai.i particu-
larly in the view of knowing what advantages miiil
reluit to the commerce of England, from the lil)erty
which that power has obtained by her late u'caty of
pcacf
ir ufe may
îed impli-
f poffible,
pilot him
atka. He
1, to com-
ulcl not re-
/lacao, and
hat he was
north-eaft.
linefe Tar-
6lion ; the
^iUous, he
, coaft, nor
>fFence, left
trading to
:nown only
pe, he will
; Spaniards
will endea-
du6lions of
ay difcovcr
weft of the
t)cure infor-
ength, und
iirchipelngo
inquiries at
he political,
at ion in the
le will care-
■,ci and V-\c
m particu-
ntiiiics muft
the lil)erty
tc treaty of
peace
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. IxvH
peace with Holland to navigate and traffic through
the whole extent of the Adriatic leas ; and he will
endeavour to find out what ufe England has made of
that liberty, and whether (lie has yet been able,
through this channel, to open any new vein of com-
merce with that part of the world.
XVIII. Should he put in to the Cape of Good
Hope, he will procure accurate information refpeél-
ing the aétual ftate of this colony ; of the force which
Holland, or the Dutch Eaft India Company, keeps
up there fince the peace, and of the ftate of the old
and new fortifications which defend the town and
anchorage.
XIX. In all the iflands, and in all the ports of con-
tinents occupied or frequented by Europeans, where
he may touch, he will prudently, as far as circum-
ftances permit, make every enquiry which may enable
~ im to difcover, in detail, the nature and extent of
he commerce of each nation, the fea and land force
^'hich each keeps up, the relations of intereft or
frienddiip which fubfift between them and the chiefs
r natives of the countries where they have fettle-
ents, and, in general, every thing that concerns
olitics and commerce.
':>''>"i-
PART THIRD.
\Operatioiis Relative to AJironomy^ Geography^ Nav'tga-
tmiy VhyJlcSy and the different Branches of Natural
Hiflory.
I. Two aftronomers having been appointed to a6l
funder the orders of the Sieur de la ?< roufe, on the
expedition entrufted to his charge, and the two fri-
Igates being furnifhed with all the inftruments of
laftronomy and navigation which need to be ufed by
Jfea or land, he will take care that, during the courfe
lof the voyage, neither of them neglc6l any opportu-
e2 * nity
Mê
Ixviiî PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
nity of making fuch aftronomical obfcrvations as may
to him appear ulbful.
Tlie objc6l of grcatcft importance toward the fafc-
ty of navigation, is to afccrtain, with precifion, the
latitude and longitude of the ])laccs where he may
land, or in fight of which he may pafs. He will ac-
cordingly dire6l the aftronomcr employed on board
each frigate to obferve, with extreme accuracy, the
movement of the marine time-keepers, and to avail
himfelf of every favourable circumftance for afcer-
taining on fhore how far the regularity of their mo-
tion has been kept up during the run, and to con-
firm, by comparifon, the change which may have
taken place in their daily motion, for the purpofe of
keeping an account of that change, in order to de-
termine with more precilion the longitude of the
iflands, capes, or other remarkable points which he
may have reconnoitred in the interval of the two ob-
fcrvations.
As often astheftate of thefky will permit, hemufl
have lunar obfcrvations made to afcertain the longi-
tude of the veflel, and to compare it with that which
the time-keepers indicate at the fame infiant : he will
take care to repeat obfcrvations of every kind, that
the mean refult of different operations may procure a
more prccifc determination. On paffing within fight
of any land where he does not mean to ftop, he will
take care to keep as nearly as pofilble on the parallel
of that point, at the infiant of obferving the meri-
dian altitude of the fun or any other fi;ar, from which
to' calculate the latitude of the fhip ; and continue
in the fame meridian at the moment of making ob-
fcrvations for determining her longitude, in order to
avoid all error of pofition or calculation of diftance,
which might injure the exaélnefs of determination.
He will, every day that the weather permits, obferve
the declination and inclination of the magnetic needle.
. On
Ml
%1
►ns as may
d the fafc-
îcifion, the
re he may
^e will ac-
l on board
:nracy, the
id to avail
for afcer-
f their mo-
md to con-
may have
purpofe of
rder to de-
ude of the
s which he
the two oh-
Tiit, hemuft
1 the longi-
r» that which
ant: he will
y kind, that
ay procure a
; within fight
ftop, he will
1 the parallel
ig the meri-
; from which
and continue
■ making ob-
5. in order to
\ of diftance,
elcrmination.
rmits, obferve
srnetic needle.
^ On
FRELIÎvIINAKY INSTRUCTIONS. IxiX
On arriving in any port be will choofe a convenient
fpot on which to pitch his tents, and raife his portable
obfcrvalory, and place a guard over it.
Befide obfervations relative to the determination of
longitude and latitude, for which every known and
pradicable method is to be employed, and thofe for
afccrtaining the variation of the compafs, he will not
fail to obferve every celeftial phenomenon, which may
be perceived ; and, on every occafion, procure for
the aftronomers all poffible alHllancc toward enfuring
the fuccefs of their operations. His Majefty is pcr-
fuaded, that the naval officers will manift'ft a proper
zeal to make themfelvcs, in concert with the aflro-
nomers, every obfcrvation tending to improve navi-
gation ; and that they, in their turn, will be eager to
impart to the officers the fruit of their ftudies, and
the theoretic knowledge wliich may contribute to-
ward the perfection of the nautical art.
On board each of the frigates there muft be kept
a double journal, on which fhall be entered every
day, both at fea and on fhore, the aftronomical ob-
fervations, thofe relating to the employment of time-
pieces, and all others. Thcfe obfervations (liall be
entered rough, that is (imply indicating the quantity
of degrees, minutes, &c. given by the inftrument at
the moment of obfervation, without any calculation,
only pointing out the error of the inftrument em-
ployed, if it has been afcertained by the ufual veri-
fetions. Each of the aftronomèrs to keep polfef-
fion of one of the journals, and the refpedlive com-
manders the other. The aftronomer fhall befides
keep a fécond journal, containing, day by day, all the
obfervations made, and add, for each operation, all
the calculations leading to the ultimate refult. At
the end of the voyage the Sieur de la Péroufc fhall
take pofièffion of the two journals kept by the aftro-
nomers, after their truth has been certified by their
fignatnres. . ,. .
e 3 II. When
IXX PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
II. When he (hall (lop at places which it may be
of importance to know in a military view, he will
have the country furvcycd by the chief engineer,
who mud give him a circutnltantial report of all
his remîirks, and of the plans he may have prepared.
He will have exac^ charts drawn of all ihe coails and
idands he miiy vifit ; and if they are already known,
he will afccrtain the cxaétnefs of preceding naviga
tors. For this purpofc, in navigating along coalts
or in fight of idands, he mud have them very exactly
furveyed with the quadrant or azimuth compaf<;, ob-
fervingthat the furveys, the mod to be depended on
for con drudging charts, are thofeby which one cape,
or any other remarkable objeét, can be laid down by
another.
He will employ the ofdcers of the frigates, and the
geographic engineer, carefully to lay ilown plans of
coads, bays, ports, and anchoring grounds, which he
may have an opportunity of infpeéting, and affix to
each plan indruétions which (hall exhibit every thing
relating to the appearance and bearing of coads, the
getting in or out of harbours, the mode of anchorage
and crofs- mooring, and the bed dtuation tor water-
ing ; the foundings, the quality of the bottom, the
dangers, rocks and (hoals ; the prevailing winds,
breezes, monfoons, the length of their duration, and
the period of their change ; in a word, every nautical
detail that may be ufeful to a mariner. All plans of
countries, coads, and harbours, mud have duplicates,
one copy to red with each of the captain>< ; and, at
the end of the voyage, the Sieur de la Péroule ihall
take poficdion of the whole, with the indrudions re-
lative to them His Majffty leaves to him the fixing
of the era when the deched boats are to be put to-
gether, which are on board each frigate in pieces :
hi<; dop at Otaheitemay be the proper ieafon. I'hefe
boats may be employed to advantage in attending the
frigates, whether on exploring the archipelagoes litua-
. i. .'■ . . , ' . i ted
i"
i(.4
"%
es, nnd the
;n plans of
5, which he
ind affix to
every thing
confis, the
' anchorage
1 tor vvater-
)ottom, the
ling winds,
LU'ation, and
ery nautical
Ail plans of
; duplicates,
ns ; and, at
éroule iliall
mêlions rc-
n the fixing
be put to-
e in pieces :
fon. Thefe
tending the
lugoes litua-
ted
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. Ixxi
ted in the great equatorial Ocean, or furvcying in de-
tail the parts of the coafi, and in founding bays,
harbours, paflhges, and, in a word, on every fervice
that can be performed by a vcHel of finall draught
of water, and capable of carrying feveral days pro-
vifion lor its crew.
III. I'he naturalifts appointed to make obfervations
analogous to their feveral purfuits, arc to be employed
each in his peculiar department. M. de la Péroufe
will prefcribe the objeèls of refcarch, and dillribute
the proper infiruments and apparatus, taking care that
no one have a complicated talk, but that the zeal and
intelligence of every individual may produce their
complete cffeét toward the general fucccfs of the ex-
pedition. He will communicate to them the memo-
rial tranfmittcd by the Academy of Sciences, point-
ing out the particular obfervations recommended to
their attention.
He will in like manner communicate to the fur-
geons of the fhips the memorial of the medical So-
ciety, that they may purfue their profeffional re-
fearches to advantage. Both in the ])rogrefs of fail-
iniT, and. in port, he will have ajournai kept on board
both vefit'ls of daily obfervations made on the ft ate of
the weather, the winds, the currents, the variations
of the atmofphere, and every thing relating to meteo-
rology. W hen in port he will obferve the genius,
charaéler, manners, cuftoms, temperament, language,
government, and number of the inhabitants. He
will examine the nature of the toil, and the produc-
tions of the different countries, and every thing re-
lative to the natural hiûory of the globe. He will
colleét natural curiofities both of the land and of the
water ; and have them claHed, with a defcriptive ca-
talogue of each fpecies, mentioning the places where
they were found, the ufes to which the natives apply
them, and, if they be plants, the virtues afcribed to
them. He will likewife colled and clafs the cloth-
e4 ing,
%>.
^.
V**'. -n.:
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Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716)872-4503
Uxii FREUMmABY INSTRUCTIOJÎÇ,
ing, arms, ornaments, furniture, tools, mufical inllru-
ipents, and all other efFeéls ufed by the different na-
tions he may vifit, and every article muft be labelled
and numbered correfpondently to the catalogue,
tje will direél the draughtfmen to take drawings
of all the remarkable land views and iituations, por-
traits of the natives, their peculiar drefs, ceremonies,
paftimes, edifices, boats, all the land and fea produc-
tions of the three kingdoms, if drawings of thefe ob-
jets appear to him likely to facilitate the compre-
benfion of defcriptions given by the fcientific gentle-
men on board. All drawings made on the voyage,
all boxes containing natural curiofities, with descrip-
tions of them, and the colledlions of ailronomical
obfervations Iball, at the end of the voyage, be put
into the hands of the Sieur de la Peroufe ; and no one
of the literati or artifts (hall referve to himfelf, or for
any other, any article of natural hiftor}', or other ob-
jeâ, which M. de la Peroufe (hall deem worthy of a
place in the colleélion de(igned for his Majefty.
IV. Before entering the port of Breft, at the end
of the voyage, or before his arrival at the Cape of
Good Hope, (hould he flop there, he (liall take pof-
feffion of all journals kept by the naval officers, ailro-
nomers, literati, artifts, pilots, and all other perfons ;
enjoining ihem, on their word of honour, toobferve
9 profound filence rcfpeéling the object of the expe-
dition, and the difcoveries made, with an a(îurance
that their journals and papers (hall be reftored.
PART FOURTH.
Conduâf to he objerved toivard the Natives of the dif-
ferent Countries.
The relations of former navigators have difclofed
the charaéiers and manners of part of the different
nations with whom be may come into contad:, both
in the iflands of the great fouthern Ocean, and on the
I ) : north-
FREUMINABY XNSTRUCTIQVS. UxiU
north-weft coaft of America. He is thereby pre»
pared to imitate the good conduél of fome of his prc-
decefTors, and to (hun the faults of others.
On his arrival in any port, he will endeavour to
ingratiate himfelf with the chiefs, by expreffing be-
nevolence, and making prefents ; he will fecure the
refources which the place furniihes for fupplying tho
wants of his (hips* companies, and employ all honour-
able means of forming intimacy with the natives.
He will find out on what European commodities they
fet moft value, and make up a proper afibrtment which
may encourage them to barter. He will fee the ne-
ceflityof ufing every prudent precaution to maintain
his fuperiority againll a multitude, without employing
force; and, however well received by favnges, he
muft ever (hew himfelf in a flate of defence, left fe-
curity on his part might tempt them to come on him
by furprize. In no cafe fhall he fend a boat on (hore
but what is provided with arms and ammunition, and
commanded by an officer, with orders never to lofe
[iight of the boat under his charge, and always to leave
fome men to guard her. He muft not permit any
officer, feaman, or other to lleep on (hore, except on
duty ; and perfons obliged by adual fervice to pa(s
the night on land, (hall retire betimes to. the tents
creeled to fervc as obfervatories and magazines, with
a guard placed over them under the command of an
officer, to maintain good order among the feamen
and foldiers, and to prevent, by adtive and unremit-
ting vigilance, every attack or entcrprize of the fa-
vages. He will take care to have the (hips moored
within reach to protedl the fettlement, and give in-
ftruélions to the officer on guard refpe6ling the (ig-
nals to be made in cafe of alarm.
Thefe difpofitions being made, he will prepare for
providing fubliftence, and other neccflaries for the
(hips' companies ; and, having made a feleétion from
the commodities with which the frigates are furnilhed,
he
Ixxiv PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
he will form a magazine on fhore under protection
of a guard : but as all the iflanders of the South Sea
have an irrefiflible propcnfity to fteal, he will take
care, that they may not be tempted by the fight of
too many obje(5ts in one place, to have no more goods
brought afhore every day but what are fufficient. for
the daily demand. He will regulate the value of
thofe exchanges, and never allow the rate once fixed
to be exceeded, left by giving, at fii*ft, too high a
price for the articles to be procured, the natives fhould
afterwards refufe to deal on lower terms He will
open but one magazine for both frigates ; and on
purpofe to maintain good order and prevent abufe,
he will fpecially charge an officer to treat with the
favage?, and to felc6t the petty officers or others, who
fhall under his own infpe61:ion perform the duty of
the magazine. No officer, or other perfon on board,
fhall be permitted, under any pretence, to carry on
any fpecies of barter, without exprefs permiffion from
the Sieur de la Péroufe, and after the rate of exchange
is fixed. If any of the crew fhall be found ftealing
the effeéls of the (hip, or any of the commodities
fet apart to be exchanged, he muft have him punifh-
ed feverely according to law, and more efpecially fiich
as being in the fervice of the magazine have abufed
his confidence, and fecreted goods for carrying on a
fniudulent trade. * He will ftri6lly enjoin all under
his command to maintain a good underftanding with
the natives, and try to conciliate their friendfhip by
fair-dealing and kindnefs, and prohibit them, under
the moft rigorous penalties, to take by force what the
inhabitants refufed voluntarily to fiirrender.
The Sieur de la Péroufe will, on every occafion,
treat the people he may vifit with gentlenefs and hu-
manity ; he will zealoufly exert himfelf to ameliorate
their condition, by procuring for them the ufeful pot-
herbs, fruits, and trees of Europe ; by teaching them
the method of cultivation, and the ufe they ought to
make
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIQNS. IxXV
make of thofe prefents, the obje^ of which is to mul-
tiply on their foil the prod «étions ncccfîâry to nations
which derive almoft all their fullcnance from the
ground.
Should imperious circumftances, againft which pru-
dence ought to provide Jn an expedition of fo long
duration, ever oblige the Sieur de la Pcroufe to ufe
fuperior force, to procure the necefîàries of life, that
force is to be exerted with the utmort moderation,
and every tranfgreflion of orders to be punKhed with
extreme rigour. In every other cafe, if he cannot
make fure of the fricndfhip of favages by kind treat-
ment, he will endeavour to over-awe them by terror
and threatenings, but never have recourfe to arms,
except in the laft extremity, that is, in cafes of felf-
defcnce, and when moderation might endanger the
[(hips, and the lives of Frenchmen entrufted to his
Icare.
His Majefty will coniider it as one of the aufpici-
)us circumftances of the expedition, that it terminate
I'ithout coding the life of a fingle individual.
PART FIFTH.
'Precautions to he employed for preferving the Health of
the Cre^vs.
The Sieur de la Péroufe being fully apprized of his
[Majelly's wifhes, that the propofed expedition, fo far
from proving injurious to favage nations whom he
lay vi(it, Ihould rather procure for them bleffings
which they want, muft furely feel what particular at-
tention he is bound to pay to the prefervation of the
:revvs under his command.
The thips are amply provided with every article that
:an either prevent the" difeafes of the fea, or check
their progrefs, as alfo with thofe which are dcligned
as fubftitutcs for ordinary provifions, and to corred
^heir bad etFeds. He will take care that thefe cor-
dials
Ixxvi VRE1.IMINJLRY INSTRUCTIONS.
dials and correctives be fcafonably applied, and with
Utoderation ; and will pay fpecial attention to the re-,
fources which may prcfent themlelves in the port»
where he may touch, to procure refrefhments and
wholefomc food, in order to correct the effeét of a
long ufe of faked provifions. He will ufe his own
difcretion in direéling the proper mode of flowage of
the frigates, and when in port, will caufe to be in-
fpe(Sted and aired fuch parts of the provifions as dif-
cover a tendency to decay, in the view of flopping it»
progrefs.
He will negledl no opportunity of procuring freflî
fifh for his men, and of frefliening bis falted fiorcs
by the methods put into his power, and fuccefsfully
pradtifed by late navigators. He knows well that one
of the precautions which moft cffcélually contribute»
to the health of fcamen, is unremitting attention to
cleanlincfs, both in their perfons and in the (hips.
He will employ for this purpofe all the known me-
thods of ventilation, fumigation, perfuming for fweet-
ening and purifying the air in the hold, and between
decks. He will every day, if poflible, caufe the fea-
mcns' hammocks and bedding be expofed to the air :
and that they may not ncgle6): perfonal cleanlincfs,
he will divide them into parties, and confide the in-
fpcéiion of each divifion to an officer, who fiiall once
a week report to the captain the flate of the clothing,
and the wants of his particular charge, and, upon an
order from.M. dc la Péroufe, the fupplemental cloth-
ing which has been put on board fhall be diftributcd
among the crews, according to the regulation laid
down by the commanding officer, and as circum-
ftances may require.
He will cftablifb the moft exaél difcipline on board
the frigates, and carefully guard againlt every relaxa-
tion in this refpeél. But the feverity necefiary to all
fcrvice, efpecially during an expedition of feveral
years, will be tempered by the confiant expreffion of
^ ' ^ . r . ^ the
PRELIMX17ART INSTRUCttOKS. IkXVÎI
the paternal regard which he owes to the compa-»
nions of his labours ; and the King, knowing the fen-
timents with which he is animated, rcfts alTured that
he will unremittingly cxcit himfclf to procure for
them all the accommodation and comfort compatible
with the interefts of the fervice, and the obje<$l of
the embnrkntion. His Majefty could not give a more
diftinguiflied mark of the confidence he repofes in
the Sicur de la Pcroufe*8 zeal, capacity, and pru-
dence, than by cntrurting to his charge one of the
moft extenfive enterprifes ever projc<5ted. Preceding
navigators in the career of difcovcry have left him
great lefibns and examples ; but the King is perfuaded
that as ambitious of gloiy as his predeceflbrs, as zeal-
ous for the extenfion of ufeful knowledge, and as
perfevcring, he will one day merit himfelf to fervc as
a model to thofe who, animated by the fame fpirit,
aim at the attainment of the fame celebrity.
NOTE.
In forming a plan of navigation for the expedition
^confided to M. de la Peronfe, the objeél was to point
lout a trad not pnrfued by former navigators; this
[appeared the furcft method of multiplying difcovery,
[and of promoting the great work of attaining a com-
Iplete dcfcription of the terreftrial globe. It was ne-
[ceflàry, however, to indicate iflands already known, as
I places of call where he was fure of procuring the
[means of fnbfiftence, by the aid of barter for the com-
fmodities with which he was provided, and adapted to
I the taftes of the iflanders. But in pointing out to
■the French commander ports already frequented, he
iisdireéted to find his way to them in tracks not
[hitherto purfued, and the commodities to be ex-
changed confift of many articles yet unknown to the
jiflandersj which will convince them that the importers
belong
IxXviii PRELIMINART INSTRUCTIONS*
belong to a nation different from any of their former
vifitors. Various principles of calculation have been
employed to eftimate the duration of the feveral runs.
In open feas the (hips are Aippofed to m«kc 30 leagues,
under the trade winds, in 24 hours : 25 leagues only
have been allowed to the fame fpace of time, in la-
titudes where it is prudent to lie to in the night ; and
only 20 leagues when the (hips are on difcovery, and
in this cafe a certain number of days is added, to
make up the time employed in reconnoitring. On
thefe data are founded the durations of the runs and
reftings, but the whole fubmitted to the direélion of
unforefeen events and circumftances. The whole
voyage will necefl!àrily exceed four years : the objeéls
in view could not have been accomplithed in Icfs time.
The periodical returns of the monfoons, to the north
and fouth of the line, are data to which the courfe
muft be fubjecSted, and which mightily impede navi-
gation in certain feas. This confideration has re-
quired various combinations to regulate particular
courfes, fo as not greatly to incrcafe the total dura-
tion of the voyage. The (hips are amply provided
tvith flores of every kind, more than lufficicnt for
four years, making allowance for the incidental fup-
plies to be expected at the various flopping places.
Captain Cook's laft voyage lafted four years, two
months, and twenty-two days, and his (hips were not
provided as the King's will be. From the known
character of M. de la Péroufe, his voyage, it is ex-
pected, will leave nothing to future navigators, but
the merit of giving more circumftantial details re-
fpeéling fome portions of the globe.
All that remains is to indicate the method employ-
ed in conlîruéling the hydrographie charts, to be
tranfmitted to the commander, when approved of by
his Majefty. ,
A firft chart of the Southern Ocean has been pre-
pared, on which are traced-, after the journals of na-
- vigators,
m
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
Ixxix
vigators, the courfes which led to difcovery, and thofe
arc indicated which are ftill to be made or verified.
This chart is conftructed after the bed French, Spa-
nifh, Enghfh, and Dutch charts, and regulated by
aftronomical oblervation, by which the pofition of the
principal points of the continents and iflands have
been determined. The extent of the great Ocean,
commonly called the South Sea, or Pacific Ocean, has
rendered it necefîàry to divide it into three belts or
zones; the 1(1 contains the great Southern Ocean,
or the fpace contained between the antarélic polar
circle and the tropic of Capricorn ; the 2d is the
grand equatorial Ocean, or interval contained be«*
tween the tropics; and the 3d, the grand boreal
Ocean, or the fea (ituated between the tropic of can*
' cer and the arélic polar circle. As the courfe pre-
fcribed is not to extend beyond the 60th parallel,
[north and fouth, it was unneceflary to trace on the
:harts the great boreal polar, or the great fouthern
)lar Oceans.
In order to prepare a chart of the Great Ocean,
le journals of all the navigators of the paft and pre-
sent century have been examined ; their detailed
)lans have been confulted, and, by reducing the fcale,
lave been brought into the general chart. All the
Lnown tracks of ancient and modern navigators are
traced on it, to bring into one view recent and ancient
lifcoveries, and to prove, in fevcral cafes, their iden-
tity. This general chart is the refult of all that has
)een produced by navigators and geographers up to
this day. To prefent in detail the materials employ-
would fill a volume. It is deemed fufficient to
fubjoin to the King's inftnidions to M. delà Péroufe,
fonie geographical and hilloric notes on parts that
need to be detailed ; and to the general charts of the
[jreat Ocean will be added thirty-l'even other charts
^r original manufcript plans of the lefs frequented
)arts of thofe fcas.
EX-
hsx
PRSCIMIKARY INSTRUCTIONS.
EXTRACTS
From M. âe h Péroufi's General Jnfiruâiiont,
iGth June, 1785.
HIS Majefty authorizes the Sieur de la Pcroufc to
grant to his crews a bounty of fome months pay, the
quantify to be regulated by circumftances, but that
tJie amount of the bounties for the whole voyage
fhall not exceed a year's pay to each crew. Befulcs
thefe bounties, which he is to announce to the petty
officers, feamen, and foldiers, in cafe they have merit-
ed them, he will inform the two crews that it is his
Majefty's intention, that the pay of fuch as may die
on the expedition, reckoning from the day of their
death, (hould go into a mafs to be diftributed, as a
farther bounty, among the furvivors of the crews to
which the deceafed refpeâively belonged ; and that
his pay up to the day of his death be accounted for
to his family, as well as the value of his effeéls, if
they have been given away.
NOTES GEOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORIC,
To hefuljoined to the Memorial from the King, tofervt
as Particular Injtruélions to M. de la Pérouje, Cap-
tain in the Navy, and Commander of the Frigates la
Boujfoleand AJirolahe,
SOUTHERN ATLANTIC OCEAN.
1 . The three rocks, fituated S. S. W. of St. Jago,
one of the Cape de Verds, as well as the French bea-
con and breakers feen by the Ccfar, in 1730, S. S. E.
of the fame ifland, are laid down after the Englifh
chart of the Atlantic, publifhed at London, in 1777.
2. Pennedo de S. Pedro. The latitude is 55'' north,
as M. Daprès fays he obferved in 1 750 : he fettles its
'■ > , . longitude
PRfiLlMINARY INSTRUCTIOirff* JkXXÎ
longitude at 2p" weft of Pari , but from later an4
more accurate obfervation, it appears to be 34' mor^
to wertward.
3. The ihoals near the line arc laid down confor-»
mably to the inftru(5lions of the Neptune Oriental.
4. The fmall Illand of St. Paul, fecn in the fàmo
latitude by the (hip of Ic Vaillant, is laid down after
Sailing Direéiions for the Eaji Ituiies, London 1781 ;
but it differs 35' as to longitude.
5. Fernando do Noronha, is laid down conformably
, to Captain Cook's determination 3° 53' fouth, 34^
1 63' 60" weft from Paris.
6. St. Matthew's Ifland was difcovered by a Por-
tugueze, in 1525, but had been difcovered 87 year$
)efore. It is laid down after the general chart o^
book's third voyage. Its polition is however ftill un-
îrtain.
7. The Iflands Fernando Po, Prince's, St. Thomas,
id Annobon, are placed according to obfervations
lade by Varella, a Spanifh navigator, in 177Q) a»
ider ; Fernando Po, 3° 28' north, 6° 30/ weft from
iris; Prince's, 1° 30' north, 5° 2' weft ; St. Tbo-
kas's, 2(y north, 4° 34' weft ; Annobon, 1** 25' fouth,
25' weft. Conformable to thcfe longitudes, thofe
Cape Vcrd, Sierra Leone, the Iftands of Los, and
le Cape of Grood Hope, where obfervatioos have
sen made in like manner, the pofttions of the dif-
Irent points on the weft coaft of Africa have been
igulated.
8. Afcenfion Iftand is placed agreeably to Cook's
fervations ; middle of the ifland 8° fouth> l6° 50^
ft from Paris.
9. Ifland of St. Helena is likewife placed confof-
ably to Cook's and Halley's obfervations, at fort
mes, 16° fouth according to Halley, 8° 11' weft,
cording to Cook. But according to Dr. Maflcelyne,
-yal Obfervcr at Greenwich, the latitude of St. He-
a is 15<* 55' fouth, and its longitude, from an ob.*
Vol. I, 4* fervation
IXTIXÎÎ nfBLIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
fcrvation niaHc by liimfelf on the firll of Jupiter's
fatellites, is 8" 9' weft.
10. Thelfland of Trinidacl is pl.iccd accordinp^ to
its diflancc from Cape Frio, on tlie coati of Brafd, as
given by Daprès ; north coail, '10° 1b' fouth, 'à1° \b'
Weft from Paris. Dos Picos is placed after the Duteh
charts, fubje^tinjç its pofttion to that of Trinidad.
1 1. Iftes of Martin-Vas, are three rocks lying re-
latively to each other north and Ibuth, excepting the
moft northerly, which is thrown a little more to the
weft : their extent is not above a mile. Bouvet fays
that they are eight leagues diflant, and lie \ nortli-
eaft from Trinidad, being in the fume latitude with
that ifland.
12. Iftand of Afccnqaon, on the coaft of Brafd is
placed after Daprès, 20° 'lb' fouth, 38° weft. This
pofition fuppofes its diftanee from Cape Frio to be
120 leagues.
13. Rock difcovered in 1692, and Rock under
water in 1701. Thefe dangers are placed after Dal-
rymple's chart of the South Sea.
14. Saxenburg, and ifland difcovered by Linde-
man, a Hollander, in lt)70, in 30^ 45'! fouth, and
a^bout IIP weft. ' ."
- 15. Kattcndyke is laid down after Dalrymple's
chart, and the general chart of Cook's third voyage.
• l(). Iflamls of Triftan d'Aeunha; their pofition is
regulated after Daprès, who fixes them between 3/"
1(/ and 37*^ 45^ fouth, and from 16" 30' to 17<^ weft,
after a mean refult between the difterent runs of fc-
veral ftiips, which give 34° for the ditterence of me-
ridian bt^tween thofe ifles and the Cape of Good
Hope, which is 1 ÇP 3'' 45" eaft of Paris. Hnllcy places
the fouthmoft of them in 37" 25'' fouth. Befides the
anchoring ground on the north of the largeft, there
is a fort of harbour to the ealt of the fouthmoft point,
fiot vifible in running down the coaft, from the vaft
quantity of canes thrown down and floating acrofsin
. . certain
.\
Jupiter's
ordinpc to
' Brafil, as
h,3'2° 15'
the Dutch
Tinidad.
.8 lying rc-
ccptingthe
nore to tlic
Bouvet fays
ie J north-
ititude with
; of Brafd is
weft. This
Î Frio to be
Rock under
cd after Dal-
|a by Linde-
' fouth, and
Dalrymple's
bird voyage,
eir pofition is
between 37"
to 17*^ ^'^^'
ht runs of fc-
rence of mc-
ape of Good
Hallcy places
Betides the
largeft, there
Ulhmoft point,
from the vaft
ating acvofsin
certain
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. Ixxxiîî
^e^tnin winds. It is about half a mile broad, and
three fourths deep, in form of a horfe-fhoc It has
28 fathoms water at the middle of the inlet, and 14
near thelhorc: the depth is likewife 14 fathom in
the middle of the length, and 10 at the head of the
harbour ; the bottom is black fand, and good holding
ground.
17. Ifland of Diego d' Alvarez, is laid down after
the general chart of Cook's third voyage, and its bear-
ing and dillance from the Iflands of Triflan d'Acunha,
according as they arc given in that chart, 38" 53'
fouth, 13° weft.
1 8. Gough's Ifland, fo called from an Englifh Eafl:-
India captain, who dilcovcred it in 1715. It is very
[high land, in 40" 1 5' fouth, and I" 57' weft of Green-
iwich, that is, 4" 17' weft of Paris. Vincent, com-
[mander of the Oftcrley Eaft-Indiamnn, found it in the
latitude indicated by the difcoverer, but from his own
calculations, he reckons the longitude to be fixed too
ar to the eaft by fome degrees. This iftand is not
Inown to French navigators : but as it may lie in
"^e way of Ihips going dire^Hy to India or China,
irly in the feafon, without touching at the cape, it
Ippears an interefting objccl to afcertain its true po-
ttion, and M. de la Péroufe, it is hoped, may be able
accomplilh this.
19. Tile Grande de la Roche can be laid down only
)y conjedlure, from a relation extraded and tranflatcd
rom a Spanilh geographical workj printed at Ma-
Irid in 1 690 *. In laying down the Ifle Grande, its
ïofition has been regulated by that of the firft land
\'hich la Roche had difeovered to the eaft of Staten
The French compiler here introduces a long quotation from
1c above-mentioned Spailifli Work, containing an account of la
Locbe's palTage round Cape Horn, and fubiequent difroveries,
'•hich we omitted, as foreign to the defign of this publication. For
ie fame reafon we have not tranflated many other tedious quota-
onsand diil'uflions.
f 2
Land,
IxXîdv PRÏLIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. '
Land, and which has recently been re-difcovered,
and called by Cook the Ifland of Georgia. There is
reafon to thtnk that the Ifle Grand of !a Roche is the
fame land which had been difcovered by Americus
Vefpuifus, on his third voyage, in 1502.
20. Terre de la Roche, the Georgia of Cook, and
laid down by him between 53** 57' and 54° 57' fouth,
and between 40° 33' and 37** 54' weft.
21. Sandwich 7^nd, difcovered in 1775 : it is laid
down on the chart conformably to Cook's journal
and determination. "^'^'^
22. Chriftmas Sound, on the fouth-weft coaft of
Terra del Fuego, laid down after the journal and charts
of Cook*s fécond voyage.
^ ; ' GREAT SOUTH SEA.
23. Drake's Ifland and Harbour, placed by geo-
graphers in 180 or 200 leagues W. S. W. from Cape
Horn. Many accounts of Drake's voyage round the
world have been publifhed in England ; they differ
eflentially from each other refpeéling the pofition of
the lands difcovered by that celebrated navigator,
after his paûàge through ^he ftraits of Magellan. It
is not to be doubted that, if the weather favour M.
de la Péroufe, he will one day furnifli a verification,
which fhall ferve to deftroy for ever an error in geo-
graphy. Cook, in 1769, and Furneaux, in 1775,
purfued trades which, if thefe lands exifted at the
place aiîigned them by geographers, muft have en-
abled thcdTc navigators, if not to fee them, at Icaft to
perceive fome lign, fome indication of land ; and it
is well known that neither of them difcerned the
flighteft trace.
24. Theodore Gerard's Land. He was among the
firft Dutch navigators who made a voyage in the
Great Ocean ; he was driven by a ftorm in 1599, as
far as 64® fouth, where he difcovered a xnountainoHS
j'iv,A ; ' I . country '
laced by geo-
W. from Cape
age round the
id ; they differ
the poiition of
ted navigator,
Magellan. It
ler favour M.
a verification,
a error in geo-
;aux, in 1775,
exifted at the
muft have en-
lem, at Icaft to
I land ; and it
difcerned the
was among the
voyage in the .'
rmin ISgQ, ^
a OTOuntainous
country
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. IxXX^
country covered with fnow, refembling Norway. It
is laid down at l6° Weft of the meridian of Gape
Horn.
25. Land faid to have been feen by the Spaniards
1714, but of uncertain exiftence and pofition. It id
placed on the chart of the Great South Sea, 33° fouth,
and between 108** and 109° weft. This pofition
agrees with the opinion of Cook.
2Ô. Ealier Ifland, difcovercd in 1722 by Rogge-
wein, a Dutchman, and vilited by Cook in 1774, who
determined its pofition. The Spaniards touched here
in 1770, and called it San Carlos. They place it at
.27" 6^ fouth, and 208° 19^ from the meridian of Te-
jnerifF, or 110° 41'' weft from Paris, that is, they have
[carried it about 1 1 degrees too far to the eaft. The
[variation of the con^afs was there, according to the
ipaniards, in 1770, 2° 30^ north-eaft,
27. Illands faid to be fcen by the Spaniards in
773, 32° fouth, and. 130° wcfl: from Paris. «This
)fition has been adopted by Cook, but is ftill dif-
iutablQ.
GREAT EQUATORIAL OCEAN.
28. Iflands of this vafi Sea, between 26° and 10°
fouth, in the fpace contained between 130° weft, and
170° eaft of Paris. For all thefe M. de la Péroufe is
referred to the voyages of B)'ron, Bougainville, Car-
teret, Wallis, Furneaux, and Cook, as containing
iîvery neceflàry geographical, phyfical, and hiftorical
detail, for the purfuit of his objeé^. For the illandâ
lanciently difcovercd in thofe latitudes, he is referred
jto the chart conftruélcd on the obfcrvations made by
iMendana, Quiros, Torrez, Maire, Schouten, Tafm.^n,
land Roggewein, with inftrii6lions to verify, by his
:)wn obfervation, the miftakcs of the ancient, re(^ifie(l
by modern, navigators. For this purpofe he is fur-
^iHied with an abftrad (1) of Magellan's voyage, in
f3 1519;
I (
IxXXvi PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
1519 ; (2) of Mendana's, in 1507 ; (3) ofMendana's
fécond voyage, in 1 595 ; (4) of the voyage of de
Quiros and de Torrcz, in l6o(3 ; (5) of the voyage of
le Maire and Schouten, in 1 ()l6 ; (6) of Abel Tafman,
in 1642; (7) and of Roggcwcin, in 1722.
29. New Caledonia. It docs not appear that the
ancient navigators knew any thing of this ifland. De
la Péroufe is referred to Cook's details of it, who dif-
covcred it on his fccond voyage, and to the chart re-
lative to its difcovery.
30. Santa Cruz, difcovercd by Mendana on his fc-
cond voyage, or Egmont and Queen Charlotte's
Iflands, vifited by Carteret, in 1767.
31. Terra del Efpiritu Santo, difcovcred by Quiros
in 1606; or the Great Cycladcs of Bougainville, in
1768, and the New Hebrides of Cook, in' 1774.
All this part has been laid down on the chart of the
Gfcat EcjUfitorial Ocean, after Cook's journal and ob-
fervations.
32. Land of the Arfacides, difcovercd by Sur-
villc, in 1769. At the moment of difcovery, the la-
titude of the vefîel was 6^ 57^ fouth, and her longi-
tude, by calculation, 1 52° 28^ eaft of Paris. But this
longitude, corre^led by that of New Zealand, as de-
termined by Cook, mutl be 1 53^ 45'' at the point
where land was firft deferied.
33. Terres de la Louifiade, difcovercd by Bougain-
ville, in 17C8. La Pcroufc is here referred to Bou-
gainville's voyage.
34. Endeavour Straits, between New Holland and
New Guinea. La Pcroufc is here referred to Hawkcf-
worth's collection of voyages round the world, vol.
iii. p. 610, &e.
35. North and wcfl coafts of New Holland. There
is nothing to offer that can be deemed authentic or
fufficicntiy detailed refpeéling this part of the grcateft
ifland in the world. La Pcroufe is referred to Dam-
];ier's voyages, for the north coafl, and to de Brollè's
Naviiratlonâ
Mendana*s
yage of de
c voyage of
)el Tafman, M
ar that the
ifland. De
it, who dif-
le chart rc-
la on his fc-
Charlotte's
?d by Quiros
gainviile, in
i'l774.
chart of the
rnal and ob-
•ed by Sur-
fvcry, the la-
d her longi-
is. But this
aland, as de-
at the point
by Bo n gain -
rrcd to Bou-
Holhind and
d to Havvkcf-
e worldj vol.
lUand. There
authentic or
)f the greatell
rrcd to Dam-
to de Broiîè's
Navic;ations
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. IxXXvH
Navigations aux Terres Aullrales, for the north and
weftern coafts, and he is furnillied with a copy of the
foundings, and other particulars extraélcd from the
journals of the Englilb navigators who have more re-
cently vilited thofe parts. î
36. Van Dienicn's Southern Land, part of the fouth
of New Holland. Confult Cook's fécond and third
voyages.
'37. New Zealand. Cook's voyages fupply every
thing to be wilhed on this fubjci'^, as they contain,
beiides aftronomical and nautical obfervations, and
defcriptions, all the particular plans and charts con-
flruéted by Engliih navigators. . .-,
38. The Marquefas de Mendoqa, difcovered by
Mendana, in I ago, and re-difcovered by Cook, in
1774, to whofo relation reference may be had for
every thing that concerns their defcription and geo-
graphical polition.
39. Nublada, Rocca Partida, and others, E. S. E.
of Sandwich Iflands. They are laid down on the chart
of the Great Equatorial Ocean, after that of Anfon's
voyage, and which is copied from one found on board
the Manilla galleon which he had captured.
40. Sandwich Iflands, difcovered by Cook, on his
third voyage, in 1778. To him and Captxiin King
we owe every detail which has reached us refpeéting
thofe iflands.
^ GREAT NORTHERN OCEAN. • , -
41. North -weft coafts of America, from port Mon-
terey, lituated toward 36^ 42^ north, to the Aleutian
Iflands. In tracing the chart of thofe coafls of the
Great Boreal Ocean, for the ufe of M. dc la Péroufe,
the geographical pofitlons laid down by the Spaniards
are combined with thofe of Cook, which laft ferve to
re(^ify the former. He is defired to verify fa6ts by
his own obfervation, and is referred to Cook's third
f4 voyage,
IxXXviii fRELlMlNAllY INSTRUCTIONS.
voyage, and the charts annexed to it, as well as to
thofe which make part of the M. S. collection.
42. The Aleutians, or Iflands of Foxes, and others,
which are fuppofed to be fituated to the W., the W.
S. W., and the W. N. W. of thcfc. Cook vifited
only thofe of Oonalaflika, the ftraits which feparate
them, and a few of their harbours. The other ifles
of this clufter, and thofe fituated more to the weft
are known to us only from the Ruffian accounts of
them, which are too inaccurate to be depended on.
De la Péroufe will confider them merely as a voca-
bulary, and look out for thofe iflands as if they were
abfolutely unknown. He may however confult Coxe's
work entitled, Di/coveries of the Rujftans.
43. Port d'Awatfcha, or St. Peter and St. Paul, at
the extremity of the peninfula of Kamtfchatka. He
is furniflied with a particular plan of this port, on a
great fcale, differing from that in Cook's third voyage,
to which he is referred on touching there.
44. Kurile Iflands. Captain Gore, who fucceeded
Cook and Clorke in the command, vifited none of
them. Muller fays, that Yefo or Jejfo is the name
given to all the iflands denominated by the Ruflians
Kurtljki or Kuriles. The moft northern of them is
very near the fouthmofl: point of Kamtfchatka. They
are 22 in number, and at no great diftance from
each other. The inhabitants are fuppofed to be fuf-
ccptible of friendfliip, hofpitable, generous, and hu-
mane. Coiifult Cook's third voyage.
45. Land of Yeiib or Jeflb. The Japanefe con-
found this with the Kuriles, but they are generally
believed to be different. Cook has thrown no light
on the fubjcdt. De la Péroufe is furnifhed with a
copy of the chart conflruded by the Dutch, which
prefents a detail of all their difcoveries in thofe feas.
46. Eaft coall of Jajian, A chart of a fmall por-
tion of it is to be found in Cook's third voyage, and
nautical obfcrvations relative to it.
47,
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS» Ixxxix
47. Lekeyo Iflands, to the S. W. of Japan. Buache
[has given extracts from all the letters of zniilionaries
[relative to thofc iflands.
48. Great Ifland, populous and rich, faid to have
3een difcovered by the Spaniards about 1600. Re-
ferred to a paflhfre in the Philofophical Tranfadlions
)f the Royal Society for 1674, for fome particulai's
relating to this ifland.
IS port, on a
bird voyage,
0 fucceeded
ited none of
is the name
the Ruffians
of them is
hatka. They
iftance from
ed to be fuf-
)us, and hu-
apanefe con-
ire generally
own no light
nifhed with a
Dutch, which
n thofe feas.
a fmall per-
1 voyage, and
SUPPLEMENT.
49. Caroline Iflands. Of thefc a particular chart
fas been conftruéled after that of Father Cantova,
id the relations of other miflSonaries, which have
Den printed as a Supplement to the Hiftoire des Na-
Bgation aux Terras Auftrales, by de Brofîès.
50. An iflandio the fouth, between Mindanao and
le Moluccas. Confult, for all this part, Forftcr'4
lyage to New Guinea.
|5 1 . Straits the eaft and weft of Timor. M. do la
Iroufe is referred to Dampier's voyages for inflruc-
ms which may afïift him in navigating the (hips
[rough one or the other of thofe ftraits, as the wind
id other circumllances may dircél.
52. As to the Ifle of France and Cape of Good
lope, he is referred to the Neptune Oriental of Da-
^s, and the inftrudlions fubjoined.
53. Marfeveen and Denia ; two little iflands known
the Dutch, and furnifning them a fupply of wood,
id yet their pofition is not determined. Cook re-
rets that it was not in his power to look for them,
'hey are laid down cotiformably to the pofition given
k'm on the general chart of his third voyage ; Mar-
yeen, in 40*^ 3(y fouth, and 2° 45' eaft. of the Cape
■ Good Hope ; and Denia in 41^ fouth, and 3«eaft
" the Cape.
54. Cape, or Ifle, Circumcifion, difcovered January
'* 1739, by M. de Lozier Bouvet, Its pofition is
V" ftill
■■ .-v
m
•*'
XC PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
ftill undetermined ; having efcapcd the refearches
both of Cook and Furncaux, and all poilcrior navi-
gators ; ami the difcovcrer not having fixed it with
fufiicient accuracy.
!>«•»•«':
LETTER
From M. le Marefchal de CafirieSy to M. de Condor ctt,
Secretary to the Academy of Sciences.
Dated Ferf ailles, March, 1785.
IN this farther preliminary piece, the Marefchal
informs the Academy of his Majcfly's relblution to
itilic orders for a voyage of difcovery round the globe,
and explains the general and particular objects which
it had in view. He calls upon them to digelt a memoir
containing a detail of the dilicrent phyfical, aftro-
nomical, geographical, and other obfcrvations proper
to be made, both by fea and land, to dirc6l and aflil't
the perfons to be employed on ihe expedition ; and
concludes with exprefliiig a wifh that the illumina-
tion of that learned body, co-opcraling with the zeal
and exertions of the naval ofilccrs might be produc-
tive of the happicft effeéh on the progrefs and im-
provement of icience.
This produces, on the part of the Academy,
A DIGESTED MEMOIR,
For the life of the learned and fcleutific Ferfons ahii<
to embark under M, de la Féroufe.
To reduce this fummary to all poffible order an(i
pcrfpicuity, the Academy collcCls, under one pointe:
view, oblervations relative to feveral branches of fc:-
ences, allied by the nature of their objcét, thougij
"*"" cultivatcti
PBEHMINAKY INSTRUCTIONS. •
[cultivated by diflerent defcriptions of men.
Ihcad of the memoir they place in one clafs.
xci
At the
de Comîorcut,
me es.
[be Marefchal
s reiblution to
.und tbe glob",
• objects which
Lligeit a memoir
phyfical, aftro-
hvations proper
Àirca and afl'.Û
xpcdition; aud
t the illmnina-
g with the zeal
ght be pvoduc-
ogrefs and ii^i-
Academy,
ifc Perjons alw''
éroufe. .;--.
llible order aii^]^
uder one point et i
branches of ^ |
r objca, thoiig^^ ;
cultivat^^' •
0
GEOMETRY, ASTRONOMY, MECHANICS.
They recommend, as peculiarly interefling, to ap-
Iply unremittingly to afcertain the length of the pen-
fdulum of a fecond's vibration, in different latitudes,
from a perfuafion that an aggregate of operations to
, this effe6\:, carefully performed by the fame pcrfons,
Vith the fame inftruments, would be invaluable ; they
lerefore intrcat the navigators to purfue this objedl,
'ith all poffible exaélnefs, wherever they flop.
The determination of longitudes being a primary
)je6t to navigators, they are requefted to prefervc
le original calculations of obfervations of longitude,
the diftance of the moon from certain flars, that
cafe fome aftronomer Ihould afterwards, by new
|fervations made on land, correal the principles
;h may have determined the longitudes in quef-
I, that correélion may be emj)loyed in its turn, to
:ify the calculation of thofe very longitudes,
[avigators know before hand the moment of the .
lipfes to take place during their voyage, and the
;es where they will bevifible. They are requefted
>t to confine their obfervation to the inftants of be-
ining and ending, but to delignate the progrefs
h all polîible precifion.
The phenomena of the tides arc too interefting to
imen to be overlooked. They mult carefully mark
double tide of every day. And fome perhaps need
be informed, that we have no accurate obferva-
»ns of the tides on the weft coaft of Africa, on that
America, any more than of the Moluccas and
lilippincs.
Obfervations relative to geography being fuggeftcd
his Majefty's inftrudions, the Academy wilf only
■)join a few remarks communicated by M. Buachc
;lr geographic alipciate.
PHYSICS.
:fcii
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
PHYSICS.
Under this head the navigators arc dircéled to
' Flake accurate obfcrvations of" the daily variation of
tiie magnetic needle, every time they go on Ihore,
and at fea whenever the weather permits : to keep
an cxa6l account of the height of the barometer,
near the equator, at different hours of the day ; and
try to afcertain whether, as fome have remarked, the
mercury flands an inch higher on the weft coaft of
America than on the eafl : to employ fmall air bal-
loons to detennine the height at which the winds
llowing in the lower region of the atmofphere change
their dire6lion, and the courfe of thofe direâions ;
and to prepare themfelves to give an accurate ac-
count of the currents in the various parts of the
globe. They are defired to obferve the auroras,
boreal and auftral, and examine their height and
amplitude ; and to mark every circumilance which
may ferve to explain the phenomenon of water-
^uts : to make frequent experiments on the dif-
ferent degrees of temperature of the fea, and its
faltnefs in different latitudes, and at different depths:
to examine and diftinguifti the floating ices they may
meet ; and to obferve more clofely the phenomenon
of the light which fometimes fliines on the furface
of the fea, in the view of afcertaining its real caufe.
CHEMISTIIY.
To throw light on the theory of gas, it would be
of importance to afcertain whether or not the air is
purer or contains more vital particles, at the furface
of great extents of fea, than elfewhere. ' They arc
defired to enquire whether fedative fait is found in
the lakes of the countries they vilit, as it certainly
is in fome we know. They may probably meet with
mineral
• ••
xcin
PIELIMINARY INSTEUCTIONS.
mineral alkali, and will examine the fubflances with
which it is mixed, its diftancc from the fca, &c. in
order to trace the procefs of nature in producing
the alkalization of marine fait. They will obfcrvc
in the fevcral countries they vifit, the colours cm-
ployed in dying, the fubftances whence they arc cx-
tradcd, and the mode of application.
.'X
ANATOMY.
Befide attention to the exterior of the various
tribes of the human race, comparifon might be ex-
tended to the interior pails. The ikuJl and os hyoides
of a full-iized body might be procured, among a
people fenfibly differing from Europeans in the form
of the face, or of the whole head, and thus know-
ledge might be acquired refpe<fting the varieties of
I the human fpecies from the form of the bones of the
head. The proportions of the human figure, in dif»
iferent nations, might be compared with thofe which
limners obferve in reprefenting beautiful nature, by
lividing the height, taken in a (Irait line, into eight
>arts, from the heel to the crown of the head. The
limenfions moft accurately to be afcertained are,
the length of both arms, extended from tip to tip of
the middle fingers ; the length of one ann, from
the arm-pit to the tip of the middle finger ; the cir-
[cumference of the head, at the height of the fore-
head ; that of the cheft, at the paps ; that of the
belly, at the navel. Examine whether, in countnes
where the men are of extraordinary itature, there be
fix lumbar vertebra, or only five ; enquire what is
the duration of life, and the age of puberty.
ZOOLOGY.
The hi/loire naturelle générale & particulière, and
the ornithology of Brifion are recommended as mo-
dels.
Xciv PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
dels. In examining uncommon fliells, the objcdl
fhould be to difcover all that are to be found on the
fame coaft, the predominant fpccics, and the con-
formation of the animals they contain ; to compare
the petrified fhell-fifli of different latitudes, with the
•live ones in the fcas adjoining, and to difcover whe-
ther the petrefaélions of Europe have their living
analogies in diftant fcas.
MINERALOGY.
The examination of the ftrata which form the cor-
refpondcnt coaffs of a firait, or the foil of an ifland.
on one fide, and that of the continent which front?
it, on the other, will lead to form a conclufion whe-
ther a coaft be of ancient or recent formation ; , whe-
ther an ifland is adjacent to the mouth of a river, or
has made part of the continent. Obferve, in fmall
•iflands, and parts of continents that can be examined
in detail, at what height above the level of the fea
marine depofits arc found in horizontal ftrata. Try
to afcertain whether mountains, compofed of hori-
;zontal and calcareous ftrata, diminifh in height as
you approach the equator. ColIc6t as great a num-
ber as poflible of cryfializations. To this is fub-
joined a lift of the fpecies exhibited in Daubenton's
nomenclature. They will procure fpecimens of the
mofl fingular woods and marbles; and they will fa-
tisfy themfelves whether cryftais, which become elec-
tric by fimple heat, manifcll the polltive or negative
elc(5lricity at one of their extremities, relatively to
their pofition. ' v"i v ^ v; ; -
%* yf
BOTANY.
f t.v
Let their refearchcs be direéled to objects of
utility, fuch as the knowledge of the plants ufed by
différent nations for food, medicine, or in works of
art.
^i|^
:m
lof
, the objc6l
bund on the
id the con-
to compare
les, with the
lifcovcr whe-
thcir living
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. XCV
art. Let them make a rich and varied coUed^ion of
the grains of exotic trees and plants, picked up in a
temperature, not greatly different from that of France,
whofe productions, naturalized to our climate, may
one day enrich our plantations, and adorn our mea-
dows.
. r
brm the cor-
of an iflancl
which fronts
iclufion w he-
nation ; whc-
of a river, or
2rve, in fmall
I be examined
vel of the fea
1 ftrata. Try
ofed of hori-
in height as
great a num-
i this is fub-
1 Daubenton's
cimens of the
they will fa-
become elec-
e or negative
relatively to
to objeéls of
Dlants ufed by
or in works of
art.
OBSERVATIONS OF M. BUACHE.
Tkefe huUcate the Parts r>f the Ocean in which Knv
Difcoveries may mojl frobahly be made. rr
1. IN the fouthcrn divifion of the Pacific Ocean
there are two fpaces hitherto very little known, and
n which there is every rcafon to hope that new lands
luay be found. The firfl is that iituatcd to the fouth
' f Eallcr and Piteairn Iflands, between 30° and 35"
I. and the fécond fpace, which dcfcrvcs to be more
larticularly reconnoitred, is that contained between
e New Hebrides and New Guinea.
2. The northern part of this ocean, flill lefs known,
ay open a field of ftill more extenfive difcoverv.
b the fouth of the Mariannes, between 5" and \qP
there is a chain of iflands, divided into fevcral
luûers, and extending more than 25*^ in longitude ;
nd which are known only in a vague dcfcription,
^ nd from a chart conlkucted on the report of fomc
. '/.xjf the iflanders, who were thrown by a llorm on the
;,!|1fle of Guaham. The part ofthofc leas to the north
,ofthe Mariannes, or to the caft. of Japan, are cquallv
[unknown, only we have fufiieient indications that
his fpace contains a conlidcrable number of. iflands,
nd thefe very interelling ; one particularly of great
.'xtent, about 300 leagues eafl of Japan, whither its
nhabitants come to trade. The land of Jeflo can-
' ' • ' not
xcvî
MELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
not poHîbly bc fuch as the £ngli(h and RufTians
have reprefcntcd it.
3. On the weft coaft of America, to the north of
California, the river of Martin d'Apuilar may afliir-
edly be found again, in the latitude of 43°. He was
one of the pilots of Scbaftian Vifcaino, whofe voyape
through thofe feas is highly intercfling. It were to
bc wUhed that fomc information could bc obtained
refpec^ling the inland nations to the north of Cali-
fornia ; and that on the return, the iflands of Dcnia
and Marfevecn, to the fouth of the Cape of Good-
Hope, could be explored. The navigators would do
well to procure for us the names given by the na-
tives to the iflands they may difcovcr, and a voca-
bulary of names given by them to objedts the moll
remarkable^ and of the firft importance.
EXAMINATION OP THE NATURE OP THE Alll.
In order to determine the degree of its falubrity,
in different latitudes, and at different elevations,
the application of nitrous air feeras the moft fimplc
and mofl infallible. The firft requifite is to procure
nitrous air, nearly pure. That produced from the
folution of mercury by the nitrous acid, is the purcll ;
for want of it, that obtained from iron may be ufed.
Introduce 200 parts of nitrous air into the eudiome-
ter ; add to it loO parts of the air to bc proved, and
obferve the number of parts remaining after abforp-
tion. Subtradt this remainder from the fum of the
two airs, multiply this refult by 40, and divide the
produdt by lOQ^ the quotient will exprefs the quantity
of vital air contained in the 100 parts of the air ex-
amined. Make a memorandum of the height of the
barometer and thermometer. •; '^ ■
SPECIFIC
PRBLIMINART INITRUCTIOMI.
leva
the north of
r may aiiUr-
3°. He was
hofe voyape
It were to
be obtained
rth of Cali-
ids of Denia
pc of Good-
)rs would do
n by the na-
and a voca-
361s the moll
THE AlU.
■ its Hilubrity,
\i elevations,
c moft fimplc
; is to procure
ccd from the
is the purcft ;
may be ufed.
the eudiome-
3 proved, and
T after abforp-
ic fum of the
md divide the
fs the quantity
of the air ex-
t height of tbe
SPECIFIC
SPECIFIC ORAVITV OP THE AIR.
The navigators muft have a globe of glafs fitted
to their air pump, which they ean cshauu and fill
at picafure. fiy wdphing this globe full iin(i empty,
the fpecifie gravity of air, in dltFercnt luritades, will
be thus obtained. During ca< h experiment the
height of the barometer and thermometer muft bo
accurately obferved, and the operator provided with
a very cxaél balance, capable of afcertaining the
I gravity with eafe, to the precifion of half a grain.
EXAMINATION OP WATER.
They are referred to the experiments of the Abbé
Miappe, and the refults of them publiflied by M. de
'aflini. Thefc may affift them in determining,
ipon a fingle voyage, the degree of faltnefs of al-
loft every fea. They only need, for this purpofe,
very accurate hydrometer; which may likewife be
jployed for determining the fpecifie gravity of the
Iter of lakes, rivers, and fprings ; and by joining
thefe ibme experiments made with re agents, an
lea may be acquired not only of the quality, but
*:ewife of the quantity of (alts contained in thofe
raters. When a particular water (hall appear to
krefent any thing interefiing, a part of it may be
bvaporated, and the refiduum put up, carefully la?
ïllcd, to be more clofely examined at the end ùf
le voyage.
■•«»■■
•■''■,/t .-■,.'
■>;r;;,.I
.1
VftL. t
V,::-k
QUESTIONS
XCVlll
PRELÎMIîTiniY INSTRUCTIONS.
QUESTIONS
'T/T^i
Propofed hy the Medical Society to the Gentlemen whu
are to accompany M. de la Vêrouje^ read in the
Sitting of May 31, 1765. >ç>(|'l • rT
As thefe queftions are numerous, they are exhi-
bited under titles which form fo many heads of me-
dical refearch.
I. ANATOMY, PHYSIOLOGY.
Struâîure of the Human Body, and Funéliom of its
],,- Organs. ,,■,,.„,., <,,.. ,,.:. .
THE defcriptions of moft travellers, on this fiib-
je»5l, are known to be exaggerated and erroneous ;
but more exaèlnefs is expeéled from the fcientific
perfons who accompany M. de la Pérou fe, and they
are requefted to obfcrve the following objects with
peculiar attention :
1 . The ordinary ftrudlure of both fexes ; the
great and fmall diameter of the head ; the length of
the upper and lower extremities, meafured from the
elbow to the tip of the middle finger, of the thigh to
the extremity of the great or fécond toe ; the cir-
cumference of the pelvis ; the breadth of the chcft,
of the fhoulders ; the height of the vertebral co-
lumn, from the firft vertèbre of the neck to the fii-
crum.
2. The form, the colour of the Ikin, and its dif-
ferent regions ; as alfo of the hair and nails.
3. The particular form of the fcuU ; that of the
face, particularly of the forehead, of the nofc, eyes,
ears, mouth, chin, teeth, tongue, the hair of the
head and of the beard. Thefe parts of the body
iflanders are accuflomcd to deform in various ways.
4. Procure an exad defcription of the procefN
an<l
mtlemen whi
read in the
ley are cxhi-
leads of mc-
un3lons of its
, on this fub-
»d erroneous;
the fcientific
lufe, and they
; objeéls with
. „„, f ■ ^ ;
th fexes; the
, the length of
fured from the
of the thigh to
toe ; the cir-
h of the chcft,
e vertebral co-
neck to the fa-
cin, and its dif-
id nails,
ill; that of the
f the nofc, eyes,
the hair of the
rts of the body
in various ways.
of the procelN
■^
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. XcJX
and the fnbftanccs employed in making indelible
marks on the Ikin, and all other circumftanccs rela-
tive to fuch disfigurations.
5. The defect, exccfs, or different confornriation
of varions parts of the body ; are thefe the uniform
produâion of natural organization, or the effedt of
certain particular pra(^iccf> ? Are there ambidexters,
or is the right-hand univerfally pre-eminent ?
6. The comparative ftrcngth of the men, capabili-
ty of bearing buithens ; of walking, running, as to
time, and fpacc.
7. The fei; /es of Teeing, hearin.or, fmellirlg. Docs
the acutcncfs of one feiifc impair that of any other ?
8. The voice, diftinétnefs of articulation, the mode
of cxpreliingjoy, pleafure, foirow.
9. The age of puberty in both fexcs, the men-
ftrual flux, pregnancy, child-bearing, fuckling, pro-
portion of males and females.
10. Proportion of deaths before the age of puber-
y : the medium length of human life in ditFercnt cli-
atcs.
1 1 . Frequency or flownefs of the pulfe, which 13
Europe from Ô5 to70 in a minute.
1 2. The affinity between the colour of the fkin
,and that of the humours.
13. Are there men with milk in their breafts ?
What is to be faid of the hermaphrodites of Louifiana ?
"s the fexual inclination periodical among favages ?
ÏI. HEALTH. ' : ^ :,'•>
i. . '
^0/ fjje Jir, Water, Food, Bahtauons, Chthing, Ex-
ercije, Pajkns^
1. Air in different places to be tried by the eudi-
ometer ; higheft and lowed temperature in the lun
nd in the fhade, dryncfs, humidity, gravity, elalli-
ityj elcdlric ilate j divifion of feafons ; prevailing
,. ..-. J V ', • ' ga winds,
V
li
'^^., ; . PRÈtiMlNiâV iNStRÙCtioké.
winds, their variations ; the nature of the meteors,
fnow, hail, rain, thunder, hurricanes, water- fpouts ;
corruption by vapours or emanations.
2. Examination of fca-water ât various depths and
diftanccs from land ; frefli and brackifh water, the
nature of fait contained ; what fort the natives drink,
mineral waters, cold and hot ; made drinks, fweet or
fermented ; their mode and materials of preparatiort,
the fubftances of which they are compofed, their ef-
fe6l, particularly the kava defcribed by Anderfon.
3. Aliments. Vegetable or animal food, or both ?
Seafoning, cookery, times of eating, quantity ? Do
they ufe fait ? The refemblance which their roots,
fruits, &c, have to our pot-herbs } Their farinace-
ous plants, the fern of New Zealand, fugary fub-
flances ? ' ' ' ." ,' . v '; '■'• • ■^'
4. Habitations, their form, extent, openings, ex-
pofure, of what foil, of what materials, what (belter
they afford, drynefs, humidity ? Do the natives re-
fort thither during the night, the whole year round,
or occafionally ? What numbers to one houfe ? On
what do they fleep ? Are there tribes who always live
in the air ? Their clothing, form, materials, varie-
ties ?
5. Employments of both fexes, labour, exercife,
how far conducive or injurious to health ?
6. Paffions, manners, leading chara<5ler ? Prac-
tices favourable to the fecretidn of humours, chew-
ing tobacco, betel, &c. fmoking, friétions, undlions,
bathings, with their effeéls, particularly that of tat-
tooing ?
III.
DISEASES.
. . . ; 1 . Are there arc any acute difeafcs or fevers among
thofe iflanders ? "VV^hat eruptive diforders ? Does
the fmall-pox exift ? What is its progrefs, its ra-
vages ? Is inoculation praélifed ? Is the fmall-pox
any where endemical ? What other contagious or
epidemical
le meteors,
ter-fpouts;
I depths and
water, the
itives drink,
ks, fweet or
preparatioil,
ed, their ef-
nderfon.
>d, or both ?
antity ? Do
1 their roots,
eir farinace-
fugary fub-
ipenings, ex-
what ihelter
le natives re-
year rouiid,
5 houfe ? On
ho always Hve
Lterials, varie-
'**»*■
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. CI
epidemical difeafes ? Have they been vifited with
the plague ? Arc children fubjcdl to the tetanus and
the croup ?
2. To what are we to afcribe the frequency of
tetters and ulcers in (bme of thofe ifliinds ? To oily
un étions or the flinging of infers ? Do thefe breed
in them frequently, as in the ulcers of hot climates ?
Are the ulcers which corrode the face cancerous ?
Are they fubjed to the ieprofv, the loufy diftemper,
and the dracuMCuius ?
3. Does the venereal difeafc exifl among them ?
Docs it appear to be natural, or to have been import-
ed ? The mode of cure ? In what (late is it in the
Friendiv or Society Ifliîids ? The fymptoms ? Is
it true that the gonorrhea is unknown among thofe
iflanders ?
4. Is the fcur\7 endemical in any particular lati-
tude ? What its fymptoms and ravages in hot or
cold climates ? What its cure ?
5. Are the rickets known in thofe countries ? Do
I nervous, convulHve, fpafmodic, but efpecially epilep-
tic diforders exift among them ? Are children fub-
3^9; to any ilhiefs, particularly convulfions, while
they are teething ?
6. Arc there any perfons, male or female, particu-
larly charged with tending the fick ? What reme-
dies or procèdes do they employ ? Are there hofpi-
tals, or do they fcclude patients of certain clafTes from
fbciety ? ,^ c. ,r, '.•...,-..,,..; .- ■..„,.> , -.J.'- .■
IV. MATERIA MEDICA. ' "
The navigators will inveftigate the virtue of the
phmts whofc favour and other phyfical properties may
communicate to them any medical information. The
foliowing articles arc f^binitted to their confidera-
tion :
1. Examine the tafte, the fmell, of the roots,
woods, barks, leaves, flowers, fruits, and feeds of the
g 3 vegetable
■(
I
l|!lr;i
ctl PRELIMINAIIY INSTRUCTIONS. .
vegetables of countries imperfcélly known, and com-
pare them with the different vegetable lubllnnces
ul'ed as medicines in Europe, and make ilie fame ex-
periments on the faps of trees, as well as on animal
fnbfianccs.
2. Obfcrve the remedies ufed in warm coimtriesto
counteradl peculiar difordcrs, and even dcfcribe the
fuperftitious proceHcs which arc frequently the only
medicine of barbarous nations. '•' n"';^'» i.^h •
3. Try the deco61ions of fome of the emollient,
aromatic, acrid plants, on cutnticons difordcrs.
4. Employ meirr.ry in fric'^ion in venereal cafes,
and aflift the iflaudcrs in delivering themlclves fora
this terrible fcourge ; above all, obfcrve the cfFcds of
mercury.
Difcover whether certain fudorific vegetables have
not an anlivenereal virtue in thofe iflarids. 't
6. Difc(;vcr whcihcr there may pot cxift, in fome
warm countries, plants analogous to the jefu it's bark,
the fimarouba, the ipecacuanha, the camphor, the
opium, Src, and whether the iilands produce emetic
or purgative plants which might be turned to good
jiccount.
7. Procure information, and ma]^e obfcrvations on
the properties of the anaeardium, which is faid to be
a cure ibr infanity ; on the virtues of the tekphmm
and of the granum niarimim, which the Grecnlanders
prefer to the coehlearia asanantifcorhutic ; onWin-
ter*s bark, the root of Belaage, of Columbo, and that
of Juan Lopez.
8. What nations ufc poifoned arrows, what fub-
ilanccs they employ for this purpofe, what antidotes
to counterad their deleterious action, and, above all,
whether fait and fugar poflTcfs this quality ?
g. Examine the animals, particularly ferpents and
venomous fiOies, and difcover the caufe of this dan-
gerous property in tbcfe laft, and the means of pré-
vention.
10. Colica
cm
and com-
lululanccs
c fame ex-
on animal
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
10. Colled carefully the remedies, internal and
external, which are applied as fpecifics, the mode of
preparation, of application, the dofes, the efFeéls,
and the period of the difeafe at which they are ad-
mi ni ftered.
11. Put up in a fcpîirate herbal the plants or
parts of plants which are ufed as food, medicine, or
poifon.
emollient,
irrlcrs.
crcal cafes,
ilclves from
he cfFc6ls of
ctablcs have
Is. —I
.ift, in fome
jefuit's bark,
amphor, the
duce emetic
ncd to good
crvations on
is faid to be
he telephmm
jrccnlandci"S
ic ; on Win-
ibo, and that
s, what fub-
hat antidotes
nd, above all,
^yj ■"■■
ferpcnts and
Î of this dan-
ncans of prc-
10. coiica
-m
CHIRURGERY.
i.i
1. Arc diflocations, fra6lures, ruptures, and chi-
rurgical maladies, in general, common among peo-
ple who live in a ftate of nature ?
2. What means do they employ for curing thofe
diforders ?
3. Have they particular inftruments ? What is
[their form, of what materials, how ufed ? Buy fome,
and make a colle6lion. - ru,
4. Are circumcilion and infibulation pra6tifed ?
^ow is the operation performed ?
5. Are there any perfons, male or female, parti-
ularly entrufled with the treatment of fuch and
iich a chirurgical cafe, as of the eyes, ears, teeth,
" in, child bearing ?
6. What is the form and nature of their warlike
inftniments, that of the wounds they inflidl, the mode
of treatment and cure ?
\ 'A-
(Signed) mauduyt.
VIC-D AZYR,
DE FOURCROY, and
THOURET.
\^i tht LouvrCj Z\ft May, 1789. :'^
";' %.'.%
\ ,,..
.;">>. ii*'ti • r
''-;j«.j-.iv inti :'
\ /, ,;.-'^T
J ■;'
g 4 - •^v '. , ' •
SKETCH
. \
iw.
to
'î>;:
SKETCH
CÎV PtBilMIWARY INSTRUCTIONS.
0/* Experiments to he made for preferv'mg Wafer on
Ship' hard from Corruption, communicated by the
•' j4hbé Teffier, of the Academy of Sciences , and of the
V- Medical Society.
.ui.
TWENTY cafks of equal fize are to be fele^ed on
the voyage, (iniilar to thofe which contain the reft of
the frefli water ; thev are to be of the fame wood,
and hooped as the otners, flowed in the fame part of
the (hip, and without any particular precaution.
1 ft Experiment. The water with which two of the
calks are to be filled, muft firft be boiled for half an
hour. There are no infeéts' eggs which can ftand this
degree of heat without perilhing. Mark the calks
No. I . E. B, No. 2. E. B. the initials of eau ùotiillie,
boiled water. ;» . r*. a
2d Experiment. Let the infi''le of other two be
impregnated with quick lime diftblyed in boiling wa-
ter, repeating the operation twice or thrice ; for this
purpofe a brufh mufl be ufed, and ftrongly applied to
the ftnves and feams, that the lime water may pene-
trate the deeper. It is plain that one of the ends muft
be out when this is doing, and the infide of it muft
be likewife impregnated before it is replaced. Thefe
two are to be filled with water which has not boiled,
and marked No. I . E. C. S. No. 2. E. C. S. the initials
of eau chaulée implement, water limed fimply.
3d Experiment. This is to combine the two pre-
ceding, by filling the two caiks, impregnated as be-
fore, with boiled water; let the one be niarked No.
1 . E. B. C. the other No. 2, È. B. C. the initials of
eau bouillie, chaulée, boiled water, limed.
4th Experiment. To two cafks of wa+c*. boiled
and liined as before, add four ounces of the fpirit of
vitriol for every 250 pints of water, Paris meafure,
marked
r^m
f
FRELIMINART INSTRUCTIONS.
C?
)e feleéled on
in the reft of
{^me wood,
fame part of
;caution.
ich two of the
ed for half an
can ftand this
ark the caiks
of eau ùoulllie,
other two he
in boiling wa-
hrice; for thi?
igly applied to
jter may pene-
■ the ends muft
fide of it muft
placed. Thefe
bas not boiled,
I. S. the initials
fimply.
le the two pre-
regnated as be-
be niarked No.
the initials of
id.
f wa+c. . boiled
of the fpirit of
Paris meafure,
marked
marked No. 1 . No. 2. E. B. C. V. the initials of eau
iowllie, chaulée, vitrioVtsée, boiled water, limed, vitriol-
ated.
5th Experiment. Fill two other caiks with frêfh wa-
ter neither boiled nor limed, and add the vitriol in the
above proportions, and mark them No. 1 . No. 2. E.
S. V. the initials o{ eaujimpïe, vitriolisée, plain water,
vitriolated.
6th Ex{)eriment. To two cafks of boiled water add
the vitriol as before, and mark them No. 1. No. 2.
E. B. V. the initials of eau bouillie, vitrioliséej boiled
water, vitriolated,
7th Experiment. Let two caiks be tarred over on
the ou tilde, and filled with boiled water without any
internal impregnation, and mark No. 1. No. 2. E. B.
G. E. the initials Q(eau bouillie, goudronnée extérieure'
ment, boiled water, tarred externally.
8th Experiment. Impregnate with lime internally,
in the 2d, 3d, and 4th experiments, two cafks of
iled water, and likewife tar then» on the outfide.
ark them No. 1 . No. 2. E. B. C. G. the initials of
rau bouillie, chaulée, goudronnée, boiled water, iimed^
rred.
Qth Experiment. Let two be tarred fimply on the
©utfide, and filled with plain water which has not
boiled, marked No. 1. No. 2. E- S. G. E. the initials
o( eaufmple, goudronnée extérieurement, plain water,
tarred externally.
10th Experiment. Fill two with plain water, with-
out any preparation whatever, external or internal, of
either the water or the calks. This experiment is an
objc(5l of comparifon with all the others. .i'
The water is not to be boiled till the calks are quite
ready, and they muft be filled immediately, left other
mleds fhould depofit their eggs in it; and it is ob-
vious that all the experiment calks Ihould be clofely
bunged up. When, from the heat, the reft of the
water w board begins to corrupt, each of the expe-
riment
tn
J'nELIMIN\RY INSTRUCTIONS.
riment calks ought to be examined at the fame time,
and their taiîe, fmeJl and tranrparcncy obferved ; the
gravity niuft be tried by the hydroftatical balance,
and the temperature, by introdueing the thermome-
ter into the cafk ; in an equal quantity of eaeh fort,
an equal quantity of dry pulfc, fuch as had been ufed
before fliiling, mull be boiled ; finally, an equal
quantity of the foap formerly employed, mUll be dif-
(blved in equal quantities of the fcveral waters.
Carefully remark if infe6ls are forming in them,
of what fpceies, trace their metamorphofes, preferve
fome of them in fpirits to be brought home. If the
neceflities of the Ihip's company permit, the remain-
ing calks of the ten experiments ought not to be
touched before arriving in a different climate, and
flill in a latitude where common water will corrupt ;
in thiscttfe, let them be examined as beforCif; i ';
. An exa6l account muft be kept of every thing
done and obferved in the experiments, to be figned
by M. de la Péroufe, his officers, and the naturalilts
on board. It is to be wiihed that each of the fhips
fhould repeat the experiments at the fame time.
Double obfervations will confirm each other, and
carry the fa<5l up to demon fi^ration. The experiment
water will be as good as any other, and fo no room
will be ufelefsly occupied. : -.nf, ^]y^
M. de la Péroufe is requeficd to fign two copies
of this fketch, together with the author of it, each
of the parties to keep one, as a tefi:imony of the en-
gagement he enters into with the public, to fuperin-
tend experiments which n^ay tend greatly to promote
the comfort of navigators.
^^'1/it RamhouiUet^ May IQth, 1785.
(Signed)
'î^ilii
V
TESSIER.
LA PÉROUSE.
'■^k.iQiii 'h}ii,iMy ■^iUi'-^tiriii kViifi-:* -tf
^3ff • &#?'i04aJS'> ■ ,,^€moa^'4;| îiË^t:gasi; ^tmm . memoir
inonii'r
ÎRELIMIKARY INSTRtfCTIONS,
cvn
MEMOIR
To àireB th. Gardener in the Labours of his VoyagB
round the îVorîd\ hy M. Thouin, frji Botanical
Gardener.
The obied which this branch of the expedition has
\ m view is two-fold ; to fend to the inhabitants of
newly difcovcred eountrics the vegetable productions
lof Europe which may be ufeful to them ; and to re-
' ceive from them in return fuch of their produdlions
as are calculated to enrich Europe. This memoir is
accordingly divided into two parts correfponding to
this double objeét of mutual benefit.
PART FIRiT.
Vioice, Nature and Culture of the Vegetahks to h
tranfported from France.
Nutritious plants defcrve the preference ; the
loicc. therefore, muft be made among our legumi-
nous plants, and mofl valuable trees. Such as need
io preparation in order to be ufed as food, muft have
[he firft rank ; and thofe which need only to be
)n[l.xl to become eatable muft occupy the fécond.
To thefe limits we ought to reftriét the prefents
/hich we mean to make to a race of men who, def-
titute of vcflels proper for boiling, could make no
lie of vegetables that require this mode of cookery.
^lants of erfy culture ought to have the preference.
No f:ec]« to be put up but of laft year's growth,
)errecliy matured and found. Some need only to
)e kept from air and moifture, others muft be laid in
;arth or fand, to prcferve their germinative power,
""he gardener is di^eéled to mark and label every par-
cel, and arrange the whole conformably to a written
catalogue. On arriving at a place where he pro-
)ofcs to fow, he muft examine the temperature of
the climate, and obferve whether the native plants,
particularly
/•'
cvni
9ll^l.IMINAIir INSTRUCTIONS.
1 1
I ft
particularly annuals, arc in a flate of growth, mat»,
rity, or decay. This will direél his choice of the
proper fec^, and afpciSl. The time of the y^ear muft
be carefully attended to, as well ^s the nature of the
(oil. Let him try to engage the natives to aflift in
the labours of the field. Befides more regular cul-
ture, every time he walks abroad he ought to be pro-
vided with an aflTortmcnt of feeds, to be fcattercd
about occafionally where they are likely to fpring.
He n)uft keep a regular journal of all his operations
and their refults, which will furnifh points of com-
parifon towards perfe6ling the art.
particular direélions are then given refpedling the
packing and carriage of growing plants, both by land
and water.
PART SECO^^D.
0/ the gathering of Vegetables that may he ujeful lo
^urope, and of their Prefervation on the Voyage.
Tihe collection muft confift of l . Seeds : 2. Bulbs
and fleiby roots of vivacious plants : 3. Slips of va-
luable trees, the feeds of which cannot be procured.
Seeds to be gathered when ^ choice 't to be had, and
in a (late of perfeél maturity ; but in cafe o(f a (hort
ftay, they muft be taken on the plant though imma-
4;ure, and all means employed to vipep them on the
pafîàge ; and every chance taj^en of procuring a pre-
cious vegetable to Europe. Attention mull be paid
to the manner of putting up even perf6d;ly ripe
ibeds. Thofe which grow in hulks, pods and cap-
itules, mull remain in their envelopes, ?Lnd thefe tied
«up to prevent Ujeir opening ; the faipe (:are mull be
taken of cojjes, and m general of all dry Iruits, s
5mall (beds growing in eaJls, clullers, panicles, mult |
be picked entire with (lalks of five or fix inches long,
and all communication between the germ and the
air prevented : they mud be carefully cleared of all
infedls and their eggs. Samples of every fpecics of
plant,
1
I
:f
% ai
'Em.
J cl
fïiÊLiMtiffARy msntucTiotié. cît
plnnt, and its refpeélive feed to be marked and
numbered. Naked feeds of the fize of â ha£el-tiut
or upward, require a different preparation. They
muft be left expofcd to a free air for fome time, to
fweat off the fuperfluous moifture, and perfect their
maturity. When packed up they muft be depofited
in fuch parts of the fhip as arc leaft expofed to varia-
tions of the iitmofpherc, and equally fecured againft
exccflive dryncfs and humidity.
It cannot be doulned that the trees and plants
which may be ufcd as food are of the firft import-
ance, fuch as the fern whofc root fervcs as aliment to
the inhabitants of New Zealand : thofc ufeful in the
arts will occupy the fécond place ; fuch as are orna-
mental to our gardens, the third ; and the fourth
will comprehend thofe which are only proper for a
I botanical collc6lion. The quantity gathered (bould
|be in proportion to the climate of the country.
|Where the temperature is analagous to that of Eu-
rope, there can be no rifk in taking a great deal : iti
"lottcr climates lefs will ferve, as the feeds need hot-
)eds and frames to raife them, only a few can be
Ppreferved ; unlefs it were an objedi to props^te
them in our Eaft or Weft India fettlements. GjI-
le6t more in the laft periods of the voyage than in the
firft. Forward, as opportunity prefents, collections
already made, with proper information.
Diredions follow refpe6ling the mode of packing
and conveyance, and of culture during the voyage;
and a lift of ncceflaries to the gardener in the dif-
charge of his office.
A Lift of Seeds to be packed up pr tile Expedition,
FIRST DIVISIOX.
Subftances which need no preparation to become
food.
•"i"
5 Jt-
tntJïTS
riEUMlNARY INSTRUCTIONS.
FRUITS OF TREES.
Seeds of apples, pears, grapes, goofcberric!*.
Stones of peaches, apricots, plums, cherries.
Ahnouds. Nuts.
FRUITS OP HERBS.
Seeds of melons, of different kinds ; artichokes,
white and violet ; Guinea pepper.
LB<}UMINOUS PLANTS.
Seeds of celery of all varieties ; chervil, crcfl'es,
pariley, purflain, golden ; forrcl, lettuce, cabbage
and coos ; fmall lettuce for cutting ; wild fuccory.
ROOTS.
Onions white and red, turneps of various forts,
radiflics, garlic, flialot.
L
SECOND DIVISION.
Subftanccs that need no preparation, but roafting,
to become food.
ROOTS.
Potatoes, carrots of all varieties, chiroui, parfnips,
faliify, Spanifli and white; beet-root, red, white and
yellow.
^ FARINACEOUS SEEDS.
Wheat of different fpccies, maize of all varieties,
buck wheat, or black corn ; Piedmontefe rice, barley
of different forts, oats of every variety, rye.
THIRD DIVISION.
Produ6lions not eatable till boiled, and Ihcrcfore
proper only for nations provided with vellcls fit for
this fpecies of cookery.
Peas of all forts, kidney-beans of all forts, garden-
beans of every variety, lentiles, the large fpecies;
chick-peas, white and red ; lupines, vetches, white
and black; fenugreek, white-muflard, egg-plant,
\? - ' V cabbage,
11
!;■
]k;,^B \\[
'^M s^
tai
PRRLIMIN ^RY INSTRUCTIONS. CXI
cabbage, white and red ; ixniipion and mufliroom»
nicumbcr, gourd, calabiidi, orach, chard-boct, to-
bacco*
l\'gclablcs to be tranfportcd in their tuitural State,
FRUITI^C TREKS AND SHRITBS. ,
Ajjplc-trcc, rc<l < alville, white, rennet, d'apî ;
Knglilli beurre pear-tree, bon chrétien, cniflàne,
St. Germain ; vine, golden chaflelas, nuifcadine,
lailln (le Corinthe ; peach, grolle mignonne ; nec-
tarine, ])hun, reine-ehmde, mirabelle, large dama-
Icene of Tours ; apricot, common, peach ; fig, white
angeli(ju(*, violet ; cherry, Montmorcnci, black-
heart, white-heart ; olive, native ; Portugal quince,
black mulberry, garden cheftnut, walnut, thin-dicU-
cd ; almond, thin-Hielled ; Maltefe ralpbcrry. y
LEGUMINOUS PLANTS,
Potatoes of every variety, Jerufalem artichoke, gar-
lie, fhalot.
Weft-India fwect-potatoe and yam to be taken in
at the Cape de Verd illands, at the Cape of Good
Hope, or in North America. *"»
SHRUBS FOR PLEASURE.
Rofe, hundred-leaved ; lilach, tuberofe.
a
INVENTORV
Of Goods and Merchamiiz.e to be given in Prefents or
Barter. k
Thcfe confift of all forts of iron, copper and lead
ware; clothes, fi(hing-nets and hooks, mirrors,
glafs, crockery, trinkets, coins, jewellery, ftufFs,
woollen, linen, filk, tape, cordage, paper, &c. &c,
to the amount of 58,305 livrer. The articles con*
tained in M. Thouin's inventory, 2,330 livres. In-
ftruments
cut
FRRLIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS.
firumehts of aftronomy. navigation, phyfics, &c.
and books purchafed in France, 17,034 livres. Ar-
ticles purchafed in England, about 6*000 livres. Bc-
fides thefe, clîcnce of fpruce, malt, and other anti-
Icorbutics, to the value of 30,000 livres. The total ex-
traordinary expence for the expedition about 1 50,000
livres, 62501. fterling, excluiive of the table of the
fdièntilic gentlemen and artifts.
*^ This is followed by a lift of aftronomical and other
infftruments for the ufe of the navigators, and a ca-
talogue of books of voyages, of aftronomy, naviga-
tion, phyfics, natural hiftory, and others, and the pic-
iirhinàry matter concludes with a
LIST OP THE NAMES
Of the Officers^ Scientific metiy Artifis, and Seamen^ em-
barked on Board of the Frigates la Boujfole and
TJftrotabey July, 1785.
LA fiOUSSOLE.
\ M. de la Péroufe, Poft-captain, Commander in
Çhjef, employed as Chef de Divifion^ and made Chj
SEfcadre, November 2d, 1786.
Ï
LIEUTENANTS.
De Clonard, made Pofl. \\.\t\,^
I D'Elcures. ' *"^'"^
ENSIGNS.
Boutin, made lieutenant. May ift, 1786, and Ma-
jor, April 14th, 17 68.
De Pierrevert. •
i. . Colinet, made fous-lieutenant dc vaifîèau. May
1^.1786. ..... v,.(/ .-.:
MARINE GUARbs. t! !*/
., ^el de Saint Ceran, put afhore at Manilla, April
iB'th, 1787.
■De Montarnal.
■i?vt^î|;j
VOLUNTEERS.
PRELIMINAllY INSTRUCTIONS.
cxiîi
VOLUNTEERS.
De Roux Darbaud, and Frederic Broudou^ both
promoted on the voyage.
VOLUNTEERS.
ENGINEERS, SCIENTIFIC MEN, AND ARTISTS.
Dc Monneron, Enginner in Chief.
Bernizet, Geographical Engineer. r
Rollin, Surgeon -major.
Lepaute Dagelet, Profe(îbr of the Military School,
Aftronomcr.
De Lamanon, Natural Phiîôfopher, Mineralogift,
Mctcorologift.
L'Abbé Mongès, Naturalift, and Almoner.
Duché de Vancy, Draughtfman of Figures and
[Landlcapes.
Prevoft le Jeune, Botanical Draughtfman. ,
Colignon, Botanic Gardener. . - *
Guery, Clockmaker. ; j; '* ': -
Warrant Officers
Gunners and Fufileers
Carpenters, Caulkers, and Sail-makers
Topmen, Steerfmen, and Sailors
Quarter Gunners _ - -
Supernumeraries • •
Domeftics f»
Supplementary - » .
9
8
10
38
12
7
l'astrolabe.
M. de Langle, Commander.
De Monti, Lieutenant.
ensigns,
Freton de Vaujuas.
Daigrement.
De la Borde Marchainville.
Blondella.
Vol. L
MARINE
CXIV
tRELÎMIXARY INSTRUCTIONS.
MARINE GUARDS.
De la Borde Boutervillicrs.
Lîiw de Laurifton.
Raxi de Flalîàn.
SClkNTif IC MEN AND ARTISTS.
Monge, Profeflbr of the Military School, Aflro-
nomcr.
De la Martiniere, Do6lor of Medicine, Botanift.
Dufrefiie, Naturalift.
Le Pcrc Receveur, Naturalifl: and Almoner.
Prevoft, Botanical Draughtfman.
Lavaux, Surgeon in Ordinary of the Navy.
Leiflèps, Vicé-conful of Rufîia, Interpreter; put
afhore at Kamtfchatka, and intrullcd with M. de la
Péroufe^s difpatehes to Paris. »
Warrant Officers - - 8
Gunners - - - - 8
Carpenters, Caulkers, and Sailniakers 1 2
Topmen, Steerfmen, and Sailors 42
Quarter Gunners - - J 1
Supernumeraries. '^ " - - - y
Domeftics '^ - - 7
Supplemcntaries - - 11
L« 4..'»>j-i'.,i «Ijjjvi.'if.i ,;;^-. :.
NARRATIVE
^inimHiaifii »ii»Mi II ii^w»»»^fw^»»<|yiii ■ mi n hv^. ■-•<■>' viijufiiy.i-i -rf^
k
)1, Aftro-
iotanift.
ler.
I
Lvy.
retei
■; put J
de la ^
8
.
8
« '
1*2
42
11
y
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7
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Y'f^-f
x'hMVfit .'
^^ n "Br.n
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^RRATIVE
stm.
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t/Û
I
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OK
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4l
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d
%
Tropic
m
Utfl
Ifi6
\
\
\
dtll^UJtÙI '
\*utt»!.
{"Eniiutt pa-)iu \
Bam/.
\:
WUHtiJ.
i '\Hopef.
, Amtinfura/.
• f «rjtnurnui/
— It'u/oa ; i,- liV, — I
F KI É X J H.Y • ■ • • 1 S I.FS I
of Caprtrorn
'{,-^: {
\
77te namiv o/' LHand^' luuicrà'nfd.arc
thOxte w?uch were .'«r// lH' MaureQe .
IVgrrcs of f^ongitudf Kaftuf Taris.
170 176
hiV
■ !f:-\
ekdak. JVf£ta67^ .
NARRATIVE*
OF AN
INTERESTING VOYAGE
FROM
MANILLA TO SAINT BLAISE,^
In 1780 and 1781.
»e-M«»asB
IMMEDIATELY upon my arrival at Manilla,
the commander of the frigate that carried me thi-
ther difembaiked the maritime forces which he
brought, flationed them at the port of Cavita J for
its defence, and appointed me major of the troops :
:it the fame time defiring that 1 would take a plan of
|ihe harbour and its environs. The objcét of this
»i-vas to fix on the moft advantageous fituation for
[placing the force to oppofe the defcent of an enemy.
The governor fitted out the frigate La Princefla
[for an expedition which he thought to keep fecret.
[When the frigate was ready to fail, I received orders,
[very unexpededly, to take the command of it. The
jfurprife which this unlooked-for appointment occa-
[fioned me, my entire ignorance as to the obje(5t of
the r xpedition, the fear of feeing my miflion thwart-
ed by the neccffity of fome engagement, were to my
* The Spanith originals of this narrative, and the following ex.
Kra(îl, were lent by La Pcroufe ; the trandation is the work of A.
^i. Pingre, and the rorrefponding chart compofed according to
Ihcfe accoinits ; and the ancient journals is by Buanche, member
bf the national inftitute. — French Editor.
t It is well known that Manilla, in the lOand of Luconia, is
file capital of the Philippine Ides. Saint-Blaife, or Saint-Bias, is a
na-bonr on the weftern coaft of Mexico.
X Cavita is three leagues from Manilla,
h 2 mind
•-. t
.J5- (
I \
•v —
'«;?*. Vf
London J^ublislwd , . Ui^iu't •tj.i
w
m
1
ri •
<HlH{tfJtlttl
^
■I
•I i
P ;i
11
VS
f^
■7*»^
•«1
NEW
HRHKIOKS
^
%
'..
\
É ■
€ K* A Jli T ^V^'^
of a part of the
Great fa^jifïc
.;; OCEAN,
theEaajt l^outbËaftof
mà\f; (he Itack ofûie ^aiiù/i l-fif/ati
IdlViucesa comnuindiu/ <J »
}onI"'ranc?Aii touio Muurelle,
in J7Hi.
.p
Troptc
las
m
ififi
\
\
\
\
J.t1i^ujtin I
fùtp^l
\
I'Enikntpertlu
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fforn/.
^•?S
-X'l' ^*^«^/. .*//.
nmij.
\Hcptl.
tt^é
J^nJoùUùnY
• erJntt
urti/.
FKI 4 XI) LV^-^ • '•' 1 8 l,R8
JonthiUtlnHl ^.
hJMiirtor ■
.•■«if/*:
of Cupriconi
Note. rgj^uetl-
JTte nanuv o/' /j/a/idf uttiicrit'iu'd.arc
t/ii>jte whù'h were xwen liv Maurello.
Drgrres of tongitudr F.aftof itiris.
IJO 176
hIV
J,om1on PublisheU, Uif/iuH -ij, ijt^, fy IJA^/i/rdtUf. flltCtu67^' .
lilt
CXVl INTERESTING VOYAGE PROM
mind the fource of a thoufand anxieties : but the go-
vernor reprefented to me that this commiffion would
do me as much the greater honour as the objed was
more interefting ; that (hould the enemy think of
feeking me, which he would not be backward in do-
ing, the expertnefs and aftivity of my manœuvres
would be a proof of my ability ; and that, in fhort,
the fuccefs of my expedition would be of material
advantage to our Sovereign. Thefe expreffions were
fo powerful an incitement, that I confidered myfelf
particularly honoured by the governor's having cho-
fen me for this expedition, in fuch critical circum-
ftances. I accepted the command, and failed the
24th of Auguft, after receiving from government a
fealed packet, containing inftrudions and orders for
my obfervance, and the port whither I was defired
firft to repair. This packet I was not to open till
twelve leagues diftant from Cavita.
The 25th, being at thediftance prefcribed, I open-
ed the packer. 1 vvas enjoined to make the port of
Sifiran*, there to wait the final orders of government,
always keeping on the watch to repel the attacks of
the enemy, who without doubt would endeavour to
intercept me/ fliould they come to blockade Ma-
nilla.
The winds fell, and becoming contrary, were againfl
my getting clear of the ifles. 1 in confequence bore
up conftantly on difFeient tacks, making every pof-
fible effort to gain the weather gage; but I could
not overcome the current, which forcibly put me
back, running f oin the point of Efcarfea'j-, which it
was out of my power 10 tlouble. I was then under
the neccffity of coming to auchor, at ten o'clock in
* Sifiran is a harbour on the eaftern coaft of Luconia, almoft
directly oppofite to Manilla, being but t6 min. more foutherly than
that city .
t This point, the port of Las Caleras, the Ifl.s Tiaco, and St.
Bernn-(i, are firir ted id tin rhiiii;el or (Irait which divides Luco-
nia from the other Philippme iflanda.
the
\'
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE.
txvii
the morning, near this point oppofite Galeras Bay,
in 2 s fathoms, and a fandy bottom. ;•>*>•);.
At half paft three on the morning of the 30th the
wind changed to the weft, but it was fo violent that
I drove from my anchors. 1 wanted to put to fca,
but the current prevented me, and even drifted me
towards the port. 1 was in ten fathoms water, and
let go an anchor that was the fport of the current
and winds, which trelhened more and more, fo that
I foon found myfelf in only five fathoms water. I
let go a fécond, and by the affiftance of the flieet an-
chor, which I caft witti great velocity, I got further
from (hore, from whence 1 was only about the fliip's
length dittant ; and thv)ugh ftiil detained wiihin. the
point of AlagaiiLan, which forms the port of Galeras,
Î could neverthelefs get under way, but it was by
leaving an anchor, (heet anchor, two cables, and a
iheet cable faft in the rocks*. At nine o'clock in the
mornmg I doubled the point, and although the wind
abated in getting to the third quarter -j-, I neverthe-
lefs, by a prefs of fail, fuccceded in coming to anchor
at eight o'clock in the evening of the 31ft, under
flielter of the Ifland of Tiaco, to quit it again on the
morrow.
I again put to fea on the ift September, and at
four o'clock in the evening found myfelf a quarter
of a league to the north of St. Bernard. Thence I
lliaped my couife for paffing between the Cantadu-
anes J and Luconia : as this route muft bring me to
the narrovveft pafl'age between the breakers and this
* I have much abridged this, as well becaufe the detail would be
ufelefs and tirefome, as becaufe there are fome palTages which I do
not comprehend, either through |ny own want of knowledge, which
however I do not believe, or through the fault of the copier, who
may have mutilated the original.
t The Spaniards divide the horizon into four quarters: the firft
extending from north to eaft, the fécond from eaft to fouth, the
third from fouth to weft, and the fourth from weft to north.
X This ifland is oppofite to the moft fouth-eafterly part of Luco-
nia; its fouthern point is almoft parallel with Siiiran.
h 3 ifland.
CXVIU
INTERESTING VOYAGE PROM
ifland, I at ten o'clock brought to, and found myfelf
at day-break of the 2d, diflunt ten leagues from Can-
taduanes. I fct every fail, and at half pad eleven
had reached its mod north-weftern point, and pafled
at a very Hiort diftance from the laft iflots in the vi-
cinity of that point. Thence 1 fteered W. S. VV.,
and to W., keeping clofe to the wind to gain
Sifiran, which port 1 neared at fix o'clock in the
evening.
I Hood off and on all night, and the following day,
3d, came to anchor at two o'clock in the afternoon,
and moored the frigate in the bell poffible manner,
in expedlation of the laft orders which were to be
fent. As foon as I arrived I employed myfelf in ex-
ercifing the men in every thing which might be of
fervice for our defence, in cafe we fhould be attacked,
and had it occurred, all were fufficiently accuftoni-
ed to the ufe of arms. I alfo wrote to the governor, \
informing him of my arrival at Sifiran, and requeft-
ing his final orders.
Sifiran is fituated in the vicinity of very high
mountains, which render the air extremely damp.
From thence likewifc arife the continual hurricanes
I experienced during my day there. The perpe-
tual damp occafioned difeafes among my crew, of
which I lod one failor.
i We were thirty or thirty- five leagues from the
neared inhabited parts ,* and to have a communica-
tion with them it were neceflary to climb {\.eei>
mountains, inhabited by favages, which rendered
this communication extremely difficult. It was nor,
in confequence, without the greated trouble that I
fucceeded in procuring fome of the refrefhmenrs
which I thought would be of fervice to us in the
courfe of fo long a campaign. ... J» ,
To replace the two cables and (heet cable I had
lod, 1 requedcd the alcade, or commander of this
province, to get me new ones made, which he did,
and
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE. CXlX
and fcnt thcni as foon as finifhed. I in like manner
afked for fonie anchors, but there was not one to
the bcft of his knowledge throughout his whole ju-
rifdiétion.
On the loth November an officer came on board
and put into my hands a great box, containing dif-
patches refpedlino; jus Majelty's fervice. The go-
vernor-general ordered me lo fend, with the utmoft
expedition, this box to his excellency the viceroy of
New Spain, and to that effe(ft, to make fail towards
the port of St. Blaife, or Acapulco, as I (liould judge
mofl: expedient. 1 immediately got ready for my
departure; but two iucceflive tempefts delayed mc
till the 2 111.
To fail from the Philippines to New Spain, the
vcflel mud leave in June, the wefterly winds which
then blow, carrying the fliips to theeallofthe Mari-
anne Illands : at any other time a fuccefsful voyage
could not be hoped for. I therefore confidcred my
felf as on the eve of undertaking a voyage abfolutely
new, on tracks of fen, till then, almofl; unknown.
Though a navigator might even have taken a courfe
finiilar to mine, had he the fame winds ? Had he
fleered the fame points ? Had he gone through
the fame parallels or meridians ? I might therefore
conclude the courfe I took had never been before
attempted by any navigaior.
I had nothing mo e at heart than the faithful exe-
cution of the orders entrufted to me, and to render
my expedition u(eful to his Majcfty's fervice, and the
welfare of his fubjects. This fentiment animated me
in furmounting my apprehenfions with refpeft to the
abfolute ignorance I was in as to the courfe I was to
take. My knowkdge went no further than New
Britain j and even in that run I might meet with aa
infinity of iflands, of which not the leaft veftige was
to be found on the marine charts.
M. de Bougainville, who failed from the eaft of
b 4. New
CXX INTERESTING VOYAGE FROM
New Guinea to the Cape of Good Hope in the fame
iiland, gives the pofuion of only two fmali ifles, which
he called the Anchorets, and a group of other flat in-
fignificant iilcs, which he termed Mille Ifles* (Thou-
fand Iflands). He has doubtlefs placed them in their
proper latitude : but befides thcfe, not a day paflcd
withoiitdifcovcring others onalllidesjofwhich any one
may eafily be convinced by looking over my chart.
The only choice left me, and which I took from the
firft moment of my expedition, was to employ the
moft fcrupulous attention, and exercifc the moft un-
ceafing vigilance during the whole courfe of our na-
vigation, to acquit myfelf with honour of the com-
miflion with which i was charged in fpite of the con-
tinual riiks I had to encounter.
Though I had quitted a port from whence I could
have been fupplied with every thing neceffiry for fo
long a voyage, 1 at the fame time was thereby fpared
much diltrcfs. My fhip's crew were attacked by
difeaie more or lefs acute : the provifions, preciic-
ly fuffic ient for fix months, were for the moft part
fly-blown and putrified; the water, limited to fe-
venty pipes and forty barrels, without regarding the
■wafte, was a fupply veiy infufficient for a voyage of
fuch a length, anl the cordage was fuch that it broke
the fiiH time it was ufed. 1 defired from the alcade
fome tar, of which we were abfolutely in want, but
there being none in the province, 1 fupplied its place
with pitch. Though all thefe reafons left me almoft
' deftitute of hope, my zeal for «he King's fervice fuf-
fered no abatement ; and I prepared myfelf to un-
dergo all the calamities with which the nature of our
provifions and the ftate of the rigging threatened me.
* Bougainville did not give this group the name of Mille Ifles,
but l'Echiquier. ,
[ I'
:J,y ;, I.
» ■ V
Departure
/( "',i.'
KANILLA TO 8T. BLAISS.
CXSl
Departure from Sijiran, on the eaftern co^/i of Luconia,
1 4" 20^ N, tat. \ 26° 3 \f weft of St. LncaSt 9r Luear,
in California^ 121° lof eaft of Partly 20' weji of St,
Bernardf in the Mouth of the Strait,
I PUT to fca the 21ft November with flight
breezes at Ë. N. E. and by £., which Toon becom*
ing ilrong, and being diredly contrary, 1 ran upon
digèrent tacks, to gee to the north, and clear the
liland of Caiktuadanes. Thefe winds carried me to
latitude 16*^ 14', which 1 obferved on the 30th. I
then bore away to S. S. £., and again faw the iiland
on tlie 3d December: its bearing was fouth ea(t by
a quarter fouth, didant 6ve lengqes. 1 concluded
that the currents* had thrown me back a° 2b' to the
weft, notwididandmg the correction I made in my
N. N. W. courfe.
In this pofition, where I was detained by the
winds, which prevented my fteering S. E., I was af-
failed by a heavy mountainous fea, and extremely vio-
lent winds, which frequently obliged me to lay to
under the fore fail, taking every poilible method of
getting to windward, to enable me to continue my
voyage.
The 9th December, after running on different racks,
I found myfelf again in fight of the Cantuadmes,
from whence I took my final departure, the (out hern-
mod point bearing W. N. W. 3° weft, at the dif-
tance of ten or twelve leagues, which made me iti
13^ z4''lat and 122^ 2(/ long, eaft of Paris, and \i/
eaft of St. Bernard.
We then had tolerably fair frefli breezes from the
third quarter, of which I took the advantage to run
eaftward till the 14th, when the winds veei U E. N.
* Befides the currents the K-e-way had undoviV>Ied on tlie direc-
tion of the courfe ; but it was Kopaiently upon ijjg \;iUculation of
this lee-way that the courfe had been correded»
E. E.
CXXll
INTERESTING VOYAGE PROM
E: E. and E. S. E. This change obliged me to keep
two points nearer the fouih. The i8th, according
to one of the charts on whicli I had laid down my
courfe, I mud have been weft of the Martyr ifland
at feven leagues diftance j and between the 20th and
21ft came upon that called the Triangle: but by
another chart, I was on the 19th near the Yap Ifland,
or Great Caroline, and on the 20th, off the Pelew
]flands, without having obfcrved either of them : but
there could be no other caufe for the fhort and bil-
lowy fea which we had, than the proximity of the
Carolines or New Philippine Iflands, agreeable to
their fituation on the French chart. i ? -y:
On the 29th, croffing the line, I entered the fou-
thern hemifphere. The winds then came from the
third and fourth quarter, fufficiently freQi, but inter-
rupted by frequent calms, which much incommoded
us, owing to the excefl'ive heat which they occafion*-
ed. I then fteered in the fécond and firft quarter,
next to the eafl:, not however lofing fight of my de-
fign to bear up rather to the fouth, and fail in
with the wefterly winds, which muft predominate in
the higher latitudes. Steering this courfe we remark-
ed many large trunks of trees, birds of different
kinds, boobies and others called dominicos. In this
fame courfe Ï propofed taking an obfervation of the
Mille Ifles, the mod northerly and eaftcrly of which
Bougainville places in his chart at 1^ 10'' fouth, and
— — •* eaft of Paris. I accordingly met with them
on the 7th January; they extended from the 38th
degree of the fécond quarter to the 9th of the third -f-.
The latitude of the mofl: north- eafterly one was pre-
cifcly as laid down on the chart, but its longitude
* The longitude is wanting in the M. S. It is 13g deg. 30
min. by Bougainville's chart. As to the reft the Mille Ifles are
clearly the fame as his Exchiquier.
t Their extent mull then have been from the eaft 38 deg. fouth,
to ibuth 9 deg. weft.
according
cxxiii
: MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE.
according to me 141° 12' eaft of Paris. I deter-
mined on coafting thefe iflands as near as poffible,and
took an infinity of their bearings which, together
with the way the frigate made, enabled me to de-
termine, with the utmoft precifion, the pofition of
twenty-nine of thefe iflands that we have difco-
vered. There are undoubtedly many others in
the fouthern part, of which we could not take ac-
count. It is impoffible to defcribe, on the chart, the
extent of each, when fcarce any in the longed pare
is one league. They are all flat, and covered with
trees; fome are furrounded by reefs which join
them to the neighbouring iflands. On thefe reefs
the fea breaks, bur ihe breakers are only perceptible
at a fliort difi:ance. I continued to near thefe iflands,
fo that I pafled the moft northerly at the diftance
only of two miles. At fevea o clock in the evening
I defcried many fires on the moft eaftern ones, and
could not but be very much fuiprifed at feeing fuch
faiall portions of land inhabited.
Quitting thefe iflands, 1 fl.eered to eaft, a quarter
rorth-eaft; and on the 8th difcovered to the fouth,
three degrees eaft, diftant five or fix leagues, two
iflots, which I named the Hermits ; and in the even-
ing of the fame day faw the Anchorets at the north
and weft, diftant five miles ; I found them precifely
in the latitude given by Bougainville. We at the
fame moment defcried two fmall iflots to the eaft ;
I pafled to the fouth of them at midnight, at a
league diftant; I called them the Monks.
Thence I bore away for the north coaft of New
Britain; but on the loth, fcarce had the day broke
when 1 difcovered other iflands to the S. S. E.* This
and the following day I ran the length of the moft
wefterly, at a reafonable diftance. I took every pof-
* It is in the M. S. fudoefte : it (hould undoubtedly be read Ai,
defte, or fud-fiièfte, fouth-eaft, or foutli-fouth-eall ; all that follows
proves that this ifland could not be weft of the frigate.
fibU
CXXIV
INTERESTING VOYAGE FROM
fibjc method by means of bearings to make myfelf
acquainted with its true fituation, and am fure that
its northern coaft is eleven leagues long, and with-
out douht proportionably wide : far beyond the
plains, wnich extend to the fea fide, are feen many
high mountains. The chart gives its perfpedive.
Beyond this are four other flat iflands, covered with
trees, the coafts of which, rifing in fucccffion, are
bold and free from reefs, and 1 doubt not in the
channels which feparate them is good anchorage,
where fliips may be fufficiently flieltered from the
wind and fea. ; ^
, The inhabitants of thefe iflands, feeing me on the
jith two miles diftant from their moft eaftern point,
came near in their canoes to the number of twelve,
befides many others which did not put to fea. Cu-
rious to know the charafter of thefe iflanders, 1 lay
to : they came along fide, but would not venture
qn board : they carneftly requefted fome food, and
prefled us to come to anchor between the ifles. We
threw them fome cocoa nuts, and pieces of bifcuir,
which they fcramblcd for with great eagernefs, and
»lmoft fought to obtain ; but when they faw at the
poop a, net containing fome garden fl:uff, they ufed
their utmofl efforts to reach it with long wooden
hatchets. All this was a convincing proof of the
dreadful flate in which they lived ; and fo far from
Jioping for any rcfrefliment from them, I faw they
iwanted it themfelves more than me. I was therefore
from necefTuy conflrained to leave them in their mi'
ferable flate. I faw no difference between them and
the negroes of Guinea; colour, hair, lips, eyes, every
part feemed to correfpond. The only arms of thele
people were arrows, but without bows to flioot with.
The points were armed with very clumfy flints ; they
had alfo fome fifhing nets, which undoubtedly fur-
nifhed them with their principal article of fubfiftence
Purfuingmy track, on leaving this ifland, to which
I gave
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE. ' CXXV
I gave the name of Don Jofeph Bafco, I difcovcrcd
in the evening of the fame day fix others, and named
the moft wefterly of the two neareft the fouth, St,
Michael, and the moft eafterly, Jefus Maria. Their
coafts are more extenfive than I (hould have con-
ceived from the bearings I had an opportunity of
taking; for the mountains are very high, and the
diftance I was at did not permit me to overlook the
wliole extent of the coafts.
I at the fame time coafted along two other iilands
at a diftance of two miles. The moft wefterly I call-
ed St. Gabriel, and the moft eafterly St. Raphael :
between thefe and the two preceding ones were two
very fmall iilands, that of the north was called Flat,
or Low Ifland, and the fouth Oven Ifland. Thence
ftanding as before to the eaft, I found 1 was at mid-
night to the north of three iilands, which I named
the Three Kings.
On thfj ^th I left a very fmall iflot at the 38th
degree o* \ third quarter, (S. 38° W.) at fix lea-
gues diftai/wc. ' ' "
At half paft one in the afternoon of the fame day
we defcricd at N. E. 3** E. another ifland eight or
nine leagues off. It pfefented to our view a very
high mountain ; and fufpeding it to be Ifle Mat-
thias, which the French chart places north of
New Britain, I fteered E. N. E. to get nearer to it,
and convince myfelf of its fituation. At fix o'clock
in the evening the bearing of the mountain was ac
the zid degree of the firft quarter, (N. 22° E.) at
the diftance of fix or feven leagues ; and its fitua-
tion, determined by our bearings, did not leave a
doubi of its being Matthias Ifland.
1 continued the fame courfe to find out Stormy
Ifland, placed on the French ciiart more to the eaft.
This ifland certainly has its proper name. We in-
ceflantly, during the whole night, experienced ftrong
gufts of wind, and a high Tea. Neverihelefs, on the
13th,
CXXVl INTERESTING VOYAGE PIIOM
13th, notwitliftanding the fogs and frequent Ihowers
which began with the break of day, we difcovered
at the nordi-weft by north, at feven leagues dif-
tance, another which feemed fmaller than Stormy
Illand, as reprefented on the chart; but its diftance,
and the circumflance of the horizon being far from
clear, might have made it appear lefs than it in
fad was. latlaftjudged this cither to be Stormy
Iflûiid, or a little one very near it.
As, according to my obfervations, I found the fou-
thern point of Matthias Ifland to be in latitude 1^
23^ and the French chart places it 2° 10'', I thought
it better to give iliis laft up, and I placed this illand
on my chart in the latitude I concluded it to be in
from the obfervations I made at noon, and which I
believe to be very exadl*. I have corretfled the la-
titude of Stormy Illand in the fame proportion. The
pofition of theie two illands, fo clofc one to the\
other, are doubtlefs fubjeA to the fame error.
On a comparilon of my longitude, reckoned from
Matthias Illand 144° 20' eaft of Paris, with that of
143*^ 35', which is affigned it on the chart *{", I found
my point, according to the chart, vvas erroneous by
I*' \tf towards the weft. Siippofing the difcovercrs
of this ifland to have accurately afcertained its dif-
tance by the Cape of Good Hope of New Guinea J,
I correfted the longitude of 143*^ 39'' eaft of Paris,
which I obtained ac noon for that of 144° 34' which
was the refult of the longitude of Matthias Illand.
* The latitude ot the fouthern point of Matthias Ifland is i deg.
38 min. in Bougainville's chart.
f The longitude of the ûune point is on the fame chart 14c deg.
10 mill. «Stormv Jilaiul is there reprefented double: the middle
ot the moiV eaitern iilnnd is there i deg. 45 min. lat. and 145 de^i;.
37 min. long Bougainville faw, but took no obfervation of thcle
ifiands. . ■•' . :. , ■ «
% Modern navigators would rather regulate the dirtance of this
ifland by Cape St. George, whofe geographical fituation is bettti"
llciermined tluii tlmt ol the Cape of Good Hope ot New Guinea.
.■ '. • idif-
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE.
CXXVll
fhowers
covered
jes dif-
Stormy
iiftance,
far from
n it in
Stormy
the fou-
itude 1°
thought
lis illand
to be in
which I
I the la-
)n. The
e to thev
1 diftributed this well-timed corredlion over the pofi-
tion of the iflands I before difcovered. I there-
fore fixed my new point of departure in long. 144^
The fame day, 13th January, I came in fight of
an extenfive coaft ; the fécond and third quarter of
the horizon (throughout the whole of the fouth) was
loaded with clouds, thick fogs, and tornadoes. If
the weather became fine, it foon changed again, fo
that it was impoffible for me to determine what land
I faw. I believe it to be, however, the coaft of Nevr
Britain, as well becaufe, the following days, we con-
tinued to difcover portions of land, which could only
belong to a large ifland, or continent, as becaufe that
in coalting ihel'e fliores we diftinguilhed very high
mountains, fiich as are rarely feen in fmall iflands.
In the afternoon of the 14th we faw a high moun-
tain in the foulh-weft, and a coaft of great extent
from eaft to weft. Theie was no doubt of its being
a coaft of New Britain. 1 could not exadly afcer-
tain ils bearing, being twelve leagues diftant. I at
the fame time pafl'ed near three other iiles, which
bore from me S. by S. W., to the moft northerly
of which I gave the name of St. Francis ; it
was two leagues and a half offj the middle one I
called St. Joleph, and the third St. Anthony : the
latter was diitant feven leagues and a half. After
pafling them, we at midnight faw a little illand at 10^
of the fécond «quarter (E. 10^ S.) which 1 named St.
Peter. - ; ..... :. . ■■ y ■."■
We faw two iflands on the 1 5th ; at noon they
bore S, E. 8° S. ai the diftance of ten leagues. Tho
moft weftern was termed St. Laurent ; the moft eaft*
ern St. BLiife.
From the 1 5th to the 17th the winds were light
and changeable from the Hrft to the fourth quarter :
on the lyih a Imall ifland came in view, to which I
g^ve the appellation of St. Hyacinth ; its bearina;
CXXVlll
INTÈRESTmO VOYAGE f «OM
58°of the third quarter, or W. 32° S. diftant ten
leagues.
On the 1 8th we difcovered, eight miles off, three
other iilands, one of which runs from north to fouth ;
the m« ft wtfterly was named St. Rofe, the large one
Refuge liland ; and the fmall one, very near the fore-
going, Madalene. The fame day we faw, to the
louth-weft of Refuge liland, a coaft covered with
very high mountains. I fuppofed myfelf twelve
leagues from its (hore, in the direâion of 65^ of the
firft and third quarter (N. 65° E. and S. 6^^ W.).
This was the only affiftance I had in determining the
poiiiion of this iiland.
I at firft doubted whether this land were not part
of New Britain : but was afterwards convinced of
its being the ifland of St. John, reprefented on the
French chart as a large ifland, and (ituated in the pa-
rallel where I obferved it * ; the more fo, as we had
feen numberlefs little iflands (ince that of Matthias,
none of which could be taken for the ifland of St.
John.
The 19th at fun-rife we faw two very low iflands,
both of which run from N. W. to S. W. at fix
leagues diftance : they were feparated on a narrow
ftrait, open on the S. W., which we named Les Cai-
mans. ,>^. !^i ,■
At fun-fet we came in fight of two iflands towards
the fouth ; the moft northerly, which was very fmall,
had the name of St. Anne, the other St. Barbe j by
my bearings the length of the coaft of the latter was
feven miles.
* I (hould like to know by what French chart our navigator
fleered. The Ifland of St. John \% placed, according to a chart of
Fleurieu, in 3 deg. 45 min. lat. 150 deg. 3a min. eaft of Paris:
but by Carteret's Voyage, (French edition, 410.) the chart of which
is on ia larger fcale, the latitude is 4 deg. 19 min. long. 153 deg.
3 min. ealt of Greenwich, 1 50 deg. 43 min. eaft of Paris. Carte-
ret obferved this ifland. The author of the Di/coveriei of the French^
page 300, (Englilh edition, printed for Stockdal ) is decidedly for
4 deg. lat. and 151 deg. 30^ min. eaft of Paris.
At
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE.
CXXIX
At day-break the center of a large illand, which I
named Don Manuel Flores, bore S. 5** W. at the
diftance of 13 leagues ; upon it was oblerved a pretty
high mountain, and its coafl appeared to run from
E. S. E. to W. N. W. for the fpace of fix leagues. -
At eight, o'clock in the morning we got fight of
nine iflots, which I did not doubt of being the On-
tong Java of the French chart. The latitude of
thefe iflands is precifely the fame as thofe which is
afTigned to the centet of Ontong Javn on the chart.
1 (leered diredly for them to get at .ear as poflîble,
and obferved that thfey were furrOunded by a fand-
bank which cannot be feen till within ttvo miles of
the coa'fti Near the edges of this bank we faw,
above the water, at fliort diftances, fome fmall rocks
a very little way from the fand-bank itfelfé /
The bank leaves a narrow opening on the fouth
coaft, oppofite to which the hititude was by obferva-
tion 4^ 53''; we were but two cables' length from
this mouth j which leads to a gulph where the fea is
perfeftly ftill, and where is a fccure harbour, if ne-
ceflary to put in for wood or water. This gulph is
Iheltered on the north by the iflots : we gave it the
name of Princefs's Harbour. On the chart we have
given a very correét plan of this port, pafling it near
enough to be anfwerable for the accuracy of the
urart'"* . ,1 ». • vi* .-'i*^ ^
* Ontong Java, (or Jaba, vyhich is all one to the Spaniards) was
difcovered they fa^ in 1616 by Maire and Schouten. They enu-
merated twelve or thirteen iflands, but did not obferve them any
thing like fo ntar as our navigator. At a diftance they could nor
have ken fome very low (lips of landj which conneéled two parts of
one ifland, and thus they defcribed one ifland as two. In 1 767 Car-
teret difcovered, ifl the fame latitude, nine iflands which he con-
ceived to be the Ontong Java of Schouten. Théfe ifles eitended
tiom the N. W. «quarter W, to the S. E. a quarter E. for the
Ipace of about fifteen leagues, one of which is very extenfive;
whereas Ontong Java does not extend three leagues, and all the
'llands of which it is compofed are verv fmall. Notwithftandin«
NT .-. * . • I ■ *■'
OJL. I. \ ihï
cxxx
INTERESTING VOYA»!^ ¥ROM
From thcle illots, which arc not above a mile fVom
each other, iflucd out about fixty canoes which ap-
proached us within a (hon gun-fhot; but the wind
being favourable, I did not think it worth while to
wait for them, but flood on always in the fame
courfe. They returned to their iflots, on which it
appeared to me impofTible for human creatures ta
fubfift. We faw there a tolerable number of palm-
trees, which no doubt bore fruit, and by this and
the help of filh> thefe iilanders drag on their mifera<
ble life.
After leaving Ontong Java I continued my way
^ith gentle 'pieafant winds during the day, but
ftormy in «"he night, which obliged me to keep a
ftrid look but for whatever might offer itfelf to our
view, and recommended a fimilar vigilance to all the
fhip's company. They at once faw the rifks we had
to encounter ; confequently no fboner was an object
defcried in the horizon, than I was informed of it;
the ifland obferved, and the danger avoided..
I failed the Z2d without feeing any land, but the
night being dark we heard at tea o'clock a dreadfiï)
roaring in the N. Ë. and faw wideof the Oiip*s quar-
ter, at an incoriiiderable diftanee, the iêa all white
with foam. I wa^ obliged to bear away to the S. VY.
until the noife of this Ihoal, which 1 called the
Snorei*, were no longer heard. I then flood again to
the eaft as before.
If themany accidents which occurred during my voy-
age be taken into confideration, the conftancy I inva-
riably ïhowed in my aim at two obje^ of equal mo-
ment, yet direclly oppolîte one to the other, may be
eafily conceived. My commifTion required the ur-
ihis, we flittll en(ieavt)iir to prove that the nine iflands of our navU
gator, as well as thofe of Carteret, Maire and Schouten, are one
and the fafne groupe, diftinét frotn the Ontong Java of Tafman.
* Fleurieu takes this SnOrer (Le Ronfleur) to be the fame rock
as the Candlemas Shoals of Medana, which is not innprobable.
■ - mod
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE.
CXXXl
ihod celerity, and confcquently obliged me to prels
every fail without a moment's lofs of time. On the
other hand the tornadoes under the line only took
place during the night ; the winds then frefhening
cotiiiderably, rendered the air dark and gloomy,
emitting thunder and lightning. During the day
there was almoft a perfedl calm, and I could there-
fore take advantage of the night alone to get for-
ward; At one time I fell in with land during the day,
at another during the night. Prudence undoubted-
ly required me not to expofe myfelf to dangers which
tnight in an inflant put an end to the very aim of the
voyage j but I might thereby have experienced a de^
Jay which had been prejudicial to my commifldon. I
therefore fupplied the defeft of tardy prudence by
the mofl aétive vigilance in looking out for every ob-
iUcle that might prefent itfelf, and profiting by every
favourable breeze^
For the remainder of January the winds were lights
and blew between N. N. W. and N. E. j obliging
me either to purfue my courfe eafterly, or in the fé-
cond quarter ilext to it. I therefore encreafed my
fouthern latitude, without having it in my power to
bear up to the north, the wind conftantiy blowing
from the firft quarter, except a few puffs which came
from the fourth and fécond quarter, and of which I
took advantage by nearing the line: but the calms
were fo fréquent, that the longeft way I Tnade in
twenty-four hours was but 70 miles.
Frorti the commencement of February the cajms
were yet more confiant : from the 6th to the 17th
our longeft run being 40 miles, and commonly only
from 12 to 15. I in vain endeavoured to pafs to the
north of the line, in hopes of doubling the weflem
fhoals of St. Bartholomew* : light airs from the N.
N. W^ and N. N. E. obliged me to fleer in the
* This I guefled at, as the M. S. gives no intdltgiUe meaning :
1 think my guefs is tolerably right.
i a .. fourth
CXXXii I{ïTERESTING VOYAGE FROM
fourth quarter to a point fo near weft, that I loft the
longitude I gained in the eaft at the expence of fuch
multiplied hazards. Thcfe reafons induced me again
to keep my way in the firft quarter, in hopes that the
eafterly winds would loon facilitate my getting north-
ward of the line.
As my voyage was Icngthing, Î took the pre-
caution from the 20th January oT leflening the ordi-
nary ration of bread, two ounces per man, befides
an ounce lefs in the pound, which 1 took oft' the mo-
ment we embarked : but on the i6ih February, fee-
ing that time did not ameliorate our condition, and
confidering that we were at fufl only vidualled for
fix months, that the 70 pipes and 40 barrels of water
put on board were not near fufficient for that fpacc
of time only J that where I then was, in S. lat. 3^ 32'
and long. É. from Paris 1 74^ 8^ with fcarcely pro-
vifions left for three months, and a very infufficient
quantity of water, I concluded that neceflity required
the diminution of a ration more, which I ordered
from that day, reducing it to two thirds.
Our diftrefs was infinitely increafed by the innu-
merable quantity of cockroaches* which infefted our
fliip. The bifcuit was much lighter than when tirft
put on board ; but what difcouraged me molt was
the ftate of our water cafks, which we not only found
empty, but frequently unlerviceable, the cockroaches
having perforated the ftavcs by holes as big round
as two fingers.
After moft ferioufly refleding on all thefe ctrcurn-
ftances, I conceived that it was not poflîble for me
to continue my courfe north of the line, without
putting into fome ifland to replace the water 1 had
* Cancrelas, or Kakerlaquer, is a coleoptorous infeél like a cock-
chaffer, but larger and much flatter; it foils and devours every
thing. It is faid to be called ravet at the Antilles ; the cockroaches
of the Ifle of France feemed to ms much larger than the ravet oî
St. Domingo, but thev are equally tormenting. .
■ '* loft.
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISB. éXXXiii
loft. • I could not flatter myfclf ihat I fliould reach
the Marianne iflands in time. The rcfult of my rc-
fledions was (he refolution of ftanding for Solomon's
J (lands, which I was then 107 leagues weftward
of; hoping the winds, which blew from the North,
would not prevent this, and from thence 1 might
with greater feciirity and fpeed reach the Prcfidio
of Monterey.
1 therefore made fail for Solomon's iflands ; but the
winds blowing uninterruptedly from the firft quarter
next the North, obliged me to drive infenfiblv to
the South. The 20th February, I found myfelf 17
leagues weft of the Cape of Santa Cruz or GuadaU
canar. We then began to meet with breezes from
E.N. E. and E. ; which made me lofe all hopes of put-
ting into, or even getting fight of Solomon's iflands.
Finding myfelf therefore in 12^8. lat. I was compel-
led to take the refolution of getting into the fouth-
crn hemifphere, confident that I (hould full in
with fome iflands where I could remedy the extreme
dearth to which I was reduced ; at the fame time
not without the hope, after having traverfed 29 or
22 degrees of latitude, of meeting with winds favour-
able for carrying us eaftward, which I could not
promife Hiyfelf in navigating in the north, unlefs by
pufliing on to 44 or 46 degrees, and keeping clofe to
the wind, which would have been an infinite lofs of
time ; and even in adopting this courfe, I muft ftill
have put in to the Mariannes.
After thefe and other reflexions which never ceafed
to torment me, I refolved to fteer in the fécond quar-
ter (between Eaft and South) purfuing that courfe
while the eafterly winds would permit. On the
26th I faw a fmall ifland, which 1 immediately ftood
for, hoping to caft anchor and take in water there.
The crew leaped for joy, thinking that this ifland
would put an end to all their wants ; their joy
equalled their diftrefs, but not tor long : when with»
, - ' . i -5 in
CXXxiv INTIIISTJNO VOYAOt PROM
in two miles of the iiltnd, we clearly faw, that (o Ut
from any anchorage, not even a boat could get aQiorc.
It was abfolutely barren ; on its mountain, ^bich
was by no nncâiis fmall, there was not a Angle tree to
bç (et^- This was named Bitter liland.
On the 27th WÇ difcovered an ifland direâiy a-
bead, on which was a very high mountain» its tutp.
mit apparently burnt, but the declivity, covered with
trees, difplayed an agreeable ver()ure. We plainly
diftinguifhed many cocoa-nut trees, which ftrength-
cned my defire to bring ^o i but the lightncfs otihc
breeze would not fuffer me to get nearer than about
a league from its weft fide, from whence came many
canoes with cocoa-npts and bananas, s^nd exchanges
immediately commenced. The Indians came on
board with ^he mod perfed confidence; he who
commanded them muniftfting the moft tender friend-
(hip, dancing on tf^e deck, and fipging feveral fongs.
Among other prefents, he gave us a large kind of
counterpane, lijcc blptting-paper, but compofed of
two or three fons of (heeis interwoven with each
other, to give more ftrength to the texture. I re-
turned his civility, and he retired well fatisfied. He
told me that this ifland, of which he was the chief,
was called Latte, fertile in different for^s of fruit,
with foft water in alnindance, and that I (hould find
good anchorage. This news was very fatisfaélory,
but, for my own part, 1 could difcover po place
where 1 could be fecurely flieltered.
In ftretcbing round the ifland to Icok for a good
anchoring place, we faw at E. N. E. about 1 2 leagues
off, other iflands not fo high, but of greater extcnt|
with feveral channels between .them ; the wind faint
but favourable for our appro;vch. The perfpedtive of
thefe illands promifing abundant relief, 1 borp up for
them.
The calms and light contrary airs, which I ex-
perienced on the ift of March, was of piany days
diiratipflj
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE. CXXXV
duration, but on the 4ih, after fcveral tacks, I ran
into an opening, formed by thefe iflands, at N. NY.
and came to anchor in 45 fathoms, at a fhort didanco
from land, whence we faw within the gulph, houfes,
abundant plantations of banana and cocoa-trees,
very fatisfai^tory appearances as to water, which laft
was nearell our hearts ; and in Ihort, in the inte-
rior of this groupe of iflands, many harbours, where
vefl'els might lay in fafety from the rage of the winds
and fea : (o that we were thoroughly perfuadcd of
our mifery being at an end.
In the evening of the fame day, we drew vp the
anchor, and as the depth of water confiderfxbiy *n-
creafed, 1 gained the o(fing by fliifiing the anchor
to the water's edge (or between wind and water) fo
that it would be ready to let go again. As foon tin
it was weighed, I again tacked towards the port, ifnù
the 5th at day-break, anchored in 38 vares (about îj
fathoms*) bottom of fand and ftone, ,twc cables*
length from the fliore, in a cçcqk where, the evcn/ng
before, I had feen the houfcs.
Every day which 1 Iqil in getting .near ^thefe ifland?,
from fifty to a hundwd canoes came along fide,
bringing pigs, fowl^ banana^, and potatoes, which
had fomeihing of the flavour of cuftard ; fome of
thefe potatoes were five vares long,''!" and in thickncfs
about thetilze of alully man's thigh ; the leafl weighed
three pounds. They offered us, likewtfe, a kind of
cloth wotven from >the bark of the palm-tree, others of
a finer make, an4 laftly, fome of the cloaks or counter-
panes, refembling blotting-paper, of which 1 h^.xn
already fpqken^ the counterpanes, particularly, they
held in high eftimation. All the commerce was c^v-
ried on aver the fliip's ftern. The iflanders wmited
* I. think it (hould be 38 tathc-i(>s.
t The Spaniili word popa or {^apa, fiffnifies a kind of panada,
made with milk, with which infaiitj are red. It feetns very jultifi-
able to fufpeâ exagg<(ration in the length of the potatoes.
.= U in
/
CXXXVi INTERESTING VGYAGK FROM
in change for their fruit and produce of their manu-
failures, hatchets, adzes, and other cutting inflru-
ments ; but I forbade, under the fevereft penalties,
^Int any Ihould be given, and 1 believe I was obey-
ed. They were, therefore, obliged to content them-
felves with bits of cloth or ftuff. My crew cut their
Ihirts, jackets, and trowfers into pieces, and with
thefe bandages procured pigs, and other refrefli-
ments. On account of ihefe provifions, I fufpended
the allowance of meat, and reduced that of the bread
to one half.
The Indians who came on board prefTed me to go
into the interior of their archipeligo ; each pointed
out his ifland, affuiing me I (hould there find water
and every thing elfe I wanted : the equis or captains
ihewed me the greateft friendfliip as they arrived,
and I endeavoured not to be in their debt. Many
fat down at the table with me, though they only par*
took of their own fruits. I imagined that thefe
iflanders were divided into many cafts or tribes, from
the number of their equis j but, on the other hand, I
obferved among the whole the greateft harmony.
We were likewife vifited by women, whofe coun-
tenances were by no means dilagreeable; their cloth-
ing confifted in a kind of petticoat, which reached
from the waift to the feet ; the men were drefled the
fame. I admired the fine bulk of the latter ; fome
of them whom I meafured being fix feet four inches
high, and large in proportion, and thefe by no means
the talleft. It is certain that the fhortefl: of thofe I
fiiw, equalled the talleft and ftouteft of my (hip's
company. Thefe iflinders are in general tall and
robuft
We no fooner caft anchor than I received a pre-
fcnt of fruits fent by the Tubou ; the meflenger be-
ing, as I was told, his Ton. This name of Tubou,
which the equis repeated with a particular tone of
lifledion — what can it fignify- ? I then thought that
it
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE. CXXXVIl
it tlenoted apparently the eqvii of the ifland, near
which we were, who muft hold fome pre-eminence
over the others, on account of their refpeclful man-
ner of treating him. Whatever it might be, 1 re-
ceived his fon in the befl poflîble manner, from the
wifli to conciliate his friendfliip, that we might meet
with no impediments in our operations, when we
went to take in water, and that he might, on the
contrary, favour us with all his authority.
From eight in the morning the frigate was fur-
rounded by a hundred canoes : the cr:es of thofe who
manned them and bartered around the Ihip, were fo
Ihrill, that it was not poffible to hear each other on
board. Neverthelefs, this fame hour they informed
us that the Tubou was coming to pay us a vifu, who
no fooner approached, than all the canoes which
were on our {larboard fide difperfed. I received
the Tubou with every poffible mark of refpeâ:. His
age and enormous fize had deprived him of the
agility neceliary for getting on the deck; fo that his
cqnis, whom till then I had confidered as little kin<;s,
were under the neceffity of fupporting him on their
Ihoulders, while he mounicd the ladder. He was
followed by his wife, who furpa. "*d in beauty all the
other females I had feen on this ill.md ; and I could
almoft at once have fworn that Ihe was daughter of
fome European, fo ftriking were the graces I re-
marked in her ; and not being at moft in her twenty-
fifth year, youth ftill added to her charms. They
both took their feats on the watch-bench , and all
the others profoundly proftrating themfelves, kifTcd
the feet of the Tubou. He brought me as a prefent
a canoa * load of potatoes. In return, I decorated
both of them with a fcarf of flame-coloured filk, from
the neck to the waift, to which 1 ("upended by a
flefli-colonred ribband, two large piaiires flumped
* The Spauifli term canoa, means boat ; but the boats of the
South Sea were probably only canoes,
V'ith
'I
.1.1
NT
CXXXVkii INTERESTING VOYAGE FROM
with the refemblance of our auguft fovereign. I at
ttic fame time dillributed feveral reals* with the
fame ftamp, to l)c at a future period incontroveriible
proofs of our having put in here. The fubordination
of the equis towards the Tnbo^l was fuch, that none
o( them dared to be feated in his prefence : even his
fon, who before his arrival aifoéted a naajeftic gra-
vity, was now as refpeiftful as the others. 1 can ù.y
with truth, that the Tubou fcarcely honourçd them
with one or two wards. Ï conduded them to the
date cabin ; they wiere (Irucjk with admira^ioiB at the
fight of the equipment of the frigate and other
things which 1 (hewed them. In Qiort> quite fatis-
fied with the reception they had met with ; they re-
tired, after giving me unequivocal aliurances of their
mod fincere friendfliip, and a thoufand embraces,
with which the good old man inftantiy overwhelm-
ed me.
To avoid the excefTes which the crew gften give
themfelves up to when they go afhore, I pwbjilhcd
an order, threatening with fevere penalties, any one
that Hiould difturb thofe iflanders, under whatever
pretence.
I defired -my men, notwithftanding., to keep them-
felves at all; events on their guard ; and to give the
Indians an idea of the power of our arms, I ordered
a few guns to be fired againft the rocks ; the noife
produced by the bullets and cafe (hot infpired them
with the greateft fe;ir, and they intreated that î would
not repeat it. This difcharge in the prelence of
Jwelve or fifteen hundred perlons produced the de-
iîred tffed, infpiring them with the dread of our
arms, which I hoped in the fequcl they would not;
put me under the ncccflTity of employing againft
ihem,
f On the 6th I chofe from among ray complement,
• The piaftre contains 20 reals ; the real is w«rth a trile more
than two pence half penny of oui- nioney.
iifieen
I
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE. CXXxU.
fifteen meo, well armed with mufkets, piHiols, fwords
and cartridge, and embarked with them in the boar,
which carried four fwivels j we landed on the beach^
which I found covered with men and women,
whom I made difperfe, and brought up my force, in
order, under arms, at about ten varcs * from the
boat ; the fwivels were pqinted againft the crowd of
Indians, in cafe we mould perceive any hoftile
movement.
The Tubou*s fon offered to condufl one of my
men to a running ftrcam of water; but after having
walked for half an hour and afcended a fmall hill, he
fdid they were ftill at fome diftance from ii ; the perfon
\ fent thought proper to come back to the beach,
where I waited his return. I had, however, funk a
well on the beach, which, when on aievel with the fea,
gave water though not fit to drink. I caufed another
to be dug twenty vares from the beach, wilhing to
avoid ihe receffity of weighing anchor, and taking
the frigate n\ore within rhe archipelago, where they
^ave me the moft pofitive afllirance of finding water.
To do that \ mud give up many days, and I did not
like to lofe tjme.
On the 7th, I was in my boat, with a detachment
well armed, and an Indian accompanied rne to one
of the places wherethey told me I might be fure of
water; but this water was too far from the (hip.
After filling a few barrels I returned, with the rçfo-
lution of continuing the well I had begun. I went
on (bore th<? fame day, always taking like pre-
cautions; the work of the well advanced, which I
l^^t in fuch a ftate as to be able to afford us water on
the morrow.
Tlie Tubou or king, came to pay me a vifit in
great pomp; the equis were ranged in two files,
M/itlx venerable old men at each extremity ; walking
* The vareï» equal to abovt three feet.
before
C^V "^ IKTF.nKSTING VOYAGE PHOM
before the king. The Tnbou, as a proof of his (eir-
der friendfliip, careflcd aud embraced mc a hundred
times. His retinue fat down, making a large circîe,
in the fame order which it arrived in. Two carpets
made of palm were brought; the king (lit down on
one, and made his fon be feated on the other, at his
right hand. The whole kept a profound filence;
thofe only near the king and whofe great age cer-
tainly made the mofl refpedable, faithfully repeating
all his wordG. Some roots were foon brought, with
which they made a drink in a kind of troughs. By
the faces of thofe who drank it muft be very bitter.
This refrefbment was ferved up in veflels made of
banana-leaves. Three or four yoang Indians prc-
fented it to the Tubou and me firft. The illander
neareft the Tubou pointed out thofe who were to
drink ; the others were not offered any. Roafted
potatoes and perfeélly ripe bananas were afterwards
put before me, of which 1 eat. Soon after two canoes
appeared full of the fame kind of provifion, to be
divided among my foldiers. This refrefliment over,
the Tubou returned home : I returned the vifir, ap-
pointing the firft pilot to command in my place, vvith
orders to let nobody approach under any pretext
whatever. The Tubou received me in the beft pof-
fible manner; the queen foon appeared, preceded by
eight or ten young girls, from fixteen to eighteen
years of age, all of whom v\aited upon her; fome
drove away the flics which might incommode her,
on the others flie leaned. She was wrapped up in
many cloaks which made her look extremely fat. She
receiving us with a fmilino; countenance, gracioufly
repeating the word li'ey, hiey, liley, which fignifies
very well or welcome. After the firft vifit, 1 made
but few others, left the Tubou (hould ftrip himfelf
of all his clothes to put on me, which is confidered as a
fignal mark of favour. The king gave me two great
doradoes
MAtîiLLA to ST. BLAtSE.
cxli
doradoes * and one of his weapons, which was no-
thing but a ftick of acanaf painted of different co-
lours. I returned on board, hoping to get water on
the morrow.
Our well being completed, in the evening of the
8th, we began to draw water, to the great aftônilh"
ment of the Indians ; but it was fo bad that we were
compelled to give up this method of getting afupply.
I this day made a fécond vifit to the King and Queen,
who never miffed fending, every evening, a great
quantity of roafted potatoes, undoubtedly from a rt>
colleftion of the lar^e number I had to feed. As foon
as I was affured of the unhcalthinefs of the water near
the fea, without hopes of finding any but at a great
diftance from the bank, owing to the proximity of
the mountain, I weighed anchor and brought to in
another bay, at a league and a half or two leagues
diftance. On weighing one of the anchors, the cable,
which was in ufe for the firft time, abfolutely failed,
all the ftrands of which it Was compofed having bro-
ken ; the whole length of the cable was entirely rot-
ten and unferviceable. I fried to fifh up the anchor
but in vain, not being able to (lay long, and the
depth of water giving me but little hopes of meeting
with it'eafily.
The new bay was perfedly proteded both againft the
wind and fea, which I fome days after experienced,
the weather being extremely violent out at fea, with
a wind from the N. and N. \V. and 1 perceiving no
other effeft from it than a guft now and then, which
came from that diredion. I was at anchor in 32 fa-
thoms in a bottom of fand and Oone ; fome hills,
which formed the harbour on the north fide, co.n-
pletely Iheltered us ; the bottom all around us was
rock.
• Dos dorado Î. The Spanifh word dorado, taken adject ively,
fignifies gilt, fubftantively, i know no other meaning than dorado,
a well-known fifh.
t I am ignorant of this kind of wood,
Oa
cxiii
INl'ERESTIXO VOYAGE FRO^
On th« 9th, we began taking in water, at onl^
live vares dillance from the beach. The work went
on fader than I wanted it, the equis having com-
manded their Indians to roll our cafks, but when
the Tubou came no one befides himfelf dared to give
any more orders.
The loth, nth, and 12th, we got as liiuch water
as we chofe to put on board i an innumerable quan-
tity of canoes came however to barter, and fheir con-
fidence in us was fuch, that many pafled the night
and (lepi on board.
During this time, the king invited me to a feaft,
which he dcfigncd preparing for that purpofci. When
I went alhore on the 12th, 1 faw in the thick wood
near the port a vail circular fpace, which had been
cleared with fuch care, that not the lead vedige of
what it had been, remained. A little after, the In-
dians went two by two to the Tubou*s houfe With
long poles on their flioulders, from which were
fufpended many potatoes, bananas, cocoa-nuts, and
filh. Thefe, by the dire<5tion of the Tubou, were
taken to the newly cleared camp, where they were
piled, in a cubical form, to the height of two
vares. The equis and venerable old men came to
condudt the Tubou, who took me by the hand, and
we repaired to the vaft circle, where upwards of 2000
Indians waited our coming. We took our feats on
the carpets of palm prepared for that purpofe, as did
all the people, always keeping each caft or family
diftinct, as they never mix with each other*
. The king then made me an offer of all the fruits»
and had them taken to my boat, which they com-
pletely filled. The porters being returned to their
refpedtive pods, a profound filence was obferved,
while the king fpoke; ihofe who had the right, from
their age and dignity, of fitting near him, repeat-
ing all his wordSé Not knowing to what this tended,
I ordered ihofe of my foldiers, whom I had left
au, were
MANIILLA TO ST, BLAISE. CXiiii
in command of the firil pilot, to hold themfelves in
fead'mefs to fire both with their muikets and piftols,
ihouM they perceive any hoftile movement. A
ftrongTobu ft young man now ftepped forward froca
the ranks, the right hand placed on his breaift,
and ftriking his elbow with his left, making many
gambols round the place oppofite the groupe of diif-
I'crent tribes to himlelf. One of another tribe then
ftepping out with the fame geftures, they begam so
ivrcltlc, Jaymg body to body, clofing with, and irc-
pelling each other with fuch animodty, that dieix
veins and nerves fwelled and extended prodigioiiHy.
At laft one of them fell with fuch violence, that I
thought he would never rife again ; he neverthelefs
got up all covered with duft, and retired without
daiiag to turn afide his head. The conqueror pre-
fcnted himfelf to do homage before the king; while
thofe of his tribe fang, but whether in praife of the
conqueror, or coniem|7t of the vajiqutthed, i can-
not lay.
Thefe wreftling combats laded two hours j one of
ihe combatants had an arm broken, and I faw others
receive terrible blows. While this wreftling lallcd,
other champions with their hands and wriits bound
with thick cords, which frrved inftead of gauntlets,
4)refented themfelves. This kiuJ if comb.it was far
more dreadful than the wrcllling, ilie comb.uams,
from the commencement, ftriking at-.ihe fo ehead,
eyes, cheeks, and all parts of the fice, while thoic
who received the blows became more impetuous and
ardent. Some weic felled to the ground by the firft
blow. The alfcmbly regarded thcle com bats with
ft certain degree of refpett, and all wcie not indifcri-
minaiely admitted to thcm^
Some women, particularly thofe who attended on
the Queen, aflifted at this fête, and 1 found them
quite otherwife than what they had hitherto appeared
«0 be. 1 had not judged of them imfavourably , bat on
;v . • this
CXIÎV IXlTîRESTlNG VOVAGE PROM
this day ihcy were clothed in their beft attire, with
tiicir mantles well plaited and tied up in a knot on
the left fide, chapleis of large glafs beads round their
necks, the hair carefully drelfed, the body waflied
and perfumed with fwect-fcented oil, and fo clean a
fkin, that they would not have futfered the fmalicll
particle of fand to remain on itj they completely'
fijccd my attention, appearing more beautiful than
ever.
The King ordered the women to fight with their
fids like the men, which they did with fuch fury,
that had they not been feparated now and then, they
would not have had a tooth left. The fpc(5\acle
touching me to the foul, I intreated the King to
conclude the combat, which he did ; and all applaud-
ed the companion 1 had for thefe young ftmales.
The Toiibou, after this defiring an old woman,
who carryed a tin bottle at her neck, to fing, which
fhe did for half an hour without ceafing, at the fame
time with fuch accompanying geftures and adion,
as might have led us to take her for an adrefs de-
claiming on the ftage.
' The entertainment at length concluded, and we
returned with the King to his houfe, where 1 found
the Qiieen, who received me with her cuftomary
marks of regard : 1 afked her why flie was not pre
fent at the feafl, to which (he anfwJ'éred, that tliofc
forts of combats were by no means agreeable to her.
The bands of friendlhip were fo clofely tied be*
tvveen us, that theTubou called me his hoxa or fon.
I took leave of the Queen and him, and returned to
embark. The beach was entirely covered with the
natives, who loaded my people with a thoufand
carefles for having condefcended to aflTift at the feaft.
The conquerors even took me on their flioulders
and carried me to the boat. The Tubou, who from
his houfe faw this crowd, and knew how much I
fuffered when the Indians mixed with my men, or*
de red
MANILLA TO ST. BLAIS£. Cxlv
^éred his captains to purfiie them, and he himfelf
went into fvjch a paflion, that he ran out with a great
flick, ftriking fuch as came within his reach. All
faved themfelvcs in the woods but two, worfe mauled
than the refl, who were left for daad on the fpot; whe-
ther they recovered I do not know.
Nothing; now prevented my putting to fea, which
I was refolved to do on the 13th, but a guft of
wind from the N. and N. W. that rofe the fame day,
and biew almoft diredtly into the channel through
which I muft go out. The wind rofe higher and
higher, notwithllanding which» the fea at our an»*
choragc was fcarcely agitated more than ordinarily ;
for all that, and riding at three anchors, the Iheet
cable gave way and I remained with the hope* and
third anchor only.
On the 15th, the wind fomewhat abated; but
when I worked Ihip to get under way, the cable of
the hope broke, fo that I had now nothing more to
hold by than the third anchor. Thefe accidents,
joined to the crofles I met with in the courfe of my
navigation, much difconcerted me. All my cables
were rotten, as were the haliards, flieets, tacks, braces,
ropes, and, in a word, all my tackling -j~. The bad
ftate of my rigging left me in the dreadful cxpefta-
tion of lofing the only anchor I had, and Ihould
that happen, I could not but confider my lofs as cer-
tain in thofe didant climates.
To remedy our moft immediate want, I fattened a
cable to a neighbouring rock, which, conjointly with
the remaining anchor, ferved to hold me faft. I alfo
employed fot]ie of the men to endeavour to look for
and fiQi up the two loft anchors ; after a labour ot
• Is the name of an anchor in Spain.
t I here omit a long detail of the damage the tackling fuftained,
and a tedious ftory of the author's complaints ; that would not be
very amuHng to the reader ; beiides which there are feveral errors
«n the manufcript.
Vol. I. k twenty-
cxlvi
INTE&EBTINO VOTAÔB FHOM
twenty-four hours we found it ufelefs, the water being
too deep.
The vexations whereby I was tormented, did not
permit me to accept an invitation the Tubou
gave to aflift at an entertainment itmilar to what he
had before given on my account : but this prince, who
called me his fon, and undoubtedly loved me as fuch,
did not forget to fend every evening two baikets of
potatoes, fome fowls, and fi(h. He ordered the
whole great quantity of provilions which had been
got together for this new feaft to be brought to mej
and came feveral times to the frigate, often dining with
me, and afterwards taking his afternoon's nap on
board.
On the i6ih, I endeavoured to fet off, and the
wind being contrary, ran upon different tacks, and
altiiough the current wasalfoagainft me, and the gut
fo narrow as hardly to give me room to tack abdur,
J found myfelf at the laft tack to windward of all the
points ; but a furious fquall blowing direâly in my
teeth, threw me back among the rocks through which
I was fteering. I was now more than ever perplexed,
having no choice left but to return to my old har-
bour, let go the anchor, and carry a cable fpeedily on
fliore to hold me in the bed manner that was poffible,
I, on the i8th, fent my firft pilot in the boat toibund
another channel, (hut in, it is true, by feveral iilands,
but which, however, promifed us an eafy entry with
the' then prevailing winds. The pilot, on his re-
turn, affured us that the channel had throughout a
good bottom, entirely free from (helves, and the paf-
fage large enough for running on tacks if requifite.
1 accordingly got ready for going out on the 19th,
and at two o'clock the fame afternoon, had cleared
all the iflands, which was all that 1 could then defire.
The, Indians and Tubou were not prepared for
this feparation which they undoubtedly were much
affeded with : the king and queen took leave of me
with
1IAI7ILLA TO éT, %LAïÈÉ»
cxhrii
with the greatefl demonftrations of forrow, and tht
Indians, in their canoes, accompanied us till we were
out of their archipelago.
This port, which I named Refuge Harbour, is
formed by three tolerably large iflands and feveral
fmailer ones. The whole group I called Don Martin
de Mayorga. The port is fituated in iS** 36' fouth,
and 179** 5/ eaft of Paris. There may at all times be
found the moft favourable (belter : ihe winds blow-
ing in vain with their greateft fury, the fea could
not be more tranquil, and the hurricane itfelf
lofes its pouer. At entering between thefe iflands,
whether by the W. N. or S. W. channel, the depth
is from fifty to fifty-five fathoms, bottom of ftone and
fand, which fame depth continues to ihe center of
the gulph two cables length from (hore, when it is
only from thirty -five to forty fathoms. In fome creeks
the depth decreafes even to twelve or fifteen fathoms.
In this place are neither Ihoals nor reefs ; the ancho-
rage muft, however, be chofen by the plumb, in fome
bays the bottom being partly earth* and partly fand.
The fertility of the earth is fuch that it cannot but
promife a favourable harveft. An immenfity of cocoa
and banana trees, ranged in rows with the moft de-
lightful regularity, are feen all around, much potatoe
ground, as may be concluded from the great quantity
fent on board, with other roots very pleaiant and nearlf
of the fame fpecies. Lemon trees, fugar canes, fruit
much refembling apples, oranges, &c. In (hort, two
or three equis having once condudted me to a fruit-
ful country, I admired the order with which every
thing was difpofed, no weeds being fuffered to grow
among the plants : their roads are kept up with a care
worthy the imitation ofche moft polilhed nations.
Seeing the zeal they had for agriculture, I gave them
fome beans, maize, a few grains of allfpice and rice,
* Should not this be roci infieactof earth. w
k a explaining
cxlviii
XNtBRBSTINO VOYAGE FBOM
explaining their ufes, and aifuring them that they
would fucceed in their beft foil.
They cultivate (hrubs all ranged in order, fimilar
to the banana trees, the bark oi which (hrubs ferves
for their cloaks or counterpanes, they likcwife make
a kind of petticoat of it.
Their condud during our (lay, is a proof of the
confidence they placed in us ; it was ndt in my power
to do the fame in this refpe(^, never going on (here
without a detachment which infpired them with terror.
Neither did they give us the leall caufc of complaint
but in their inclination to Heal, a pafTion which In-
dians cannot furmount. Every time they came on
board, whatever cloaths or iron work fell into their
way, they confidered as a lawful prize. They drew
through the port holes or windows whatever they
could carry away. They even dole the chains fpm
the rudder, of which 1 complained to the king, ^ho
gave me leave to kill any one I might furprife in the
ad} and I was affured that he had not only difcover-
cd but put to death the authors of the above men-
tioned thefr. Our vigilance was increafed, and we
furprifed fome of the iilanders taking away frelh
chains from the helm j we fired a piftol at them, of
whom one fell dead : it was a leflbn for thofe on
board or aftern of the frigate, who cried out, chiio
(thief) fama (dead).
I ufcd every method to find out if they had any
kind of religion, whether they adored any creature or
faife gods ; but we obferved nothing that could even
make us fufpedt it.
We could eafily pronounce the words of iheir lan-
guage, and they as eafily repeat ours ; a (lay of a
tew months would have put it in the power of the
one and the other toufe both languages indifferently.
If my misfortunes had not totally abforbed me, I
Ihould have coUefted all the words of their language,
which could fcrve for holding converfation wirh thtfc
Indians.
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE. Cxll'x
Indians. In the little intercourfe 1 had with them» I
gathered the names of all the part;^ of the human
body, a» well as of the numbers as far as ten.
They allured me ihat two frigates had put into
their iflands, tiic captains of which, with five or fix
officers from each, had llept on (liore, and gave them
thaplcts of glals beads, hatchets *, and adzes.
The i6th of March, when I got ready for fetting
off, ih'jy told me that two fimilar veffels with mine,
were then making fail to the N. W and they en-
tered into fucha detail that it was impoflible to doubc
the truth ot the fa^.
The equis, from cuftom, carry a mother of pearl
fliell, fufpended from thpir neck, and have the two
fmaller fingers of the hands cut off clofc to the roots.
The T«il)ou ufed his utmoll endeavours to induce
me to go with the frigate to his ordinary place of '
refidcnce, where I Ibould find vegetables in greater'
abiintlance. I fliould certainly have acquiefced in
hisdefire from thefirll: invitation, had the natureofmy
commilfjon permitted itj and the rather as I fliould
have found, by his affurance, as well as that of all
the other Indian^;, a better Ihelter and afiiHance in
repairing my rigging.
During my Ihort (lay in this port, I could not
find out what where the funéHons of the equis,
how they were didributed, what the nature of the
Tubou's authority was, and how far his power ex-
tended. In the latter days of my remaining there, in
particular, fuch was my chagrin that I thought of
nothing but fetting (ail. This, indeed, I am fure of,
that but for the unfortunate accident of lofing my ca- '
bles, which expofcd me to a thoufand dangers, I ,
never Ihould have made a plealanter (lay ; fince be-
fides a fufficiency of water and the repair of twenty-
five eiiîpty unfc;rviceable calks, we found for the (hip's
* We may conclude from thence that the frigates were Spanifli, '
ai went thofe of which we are going to fpeak. »
k 3 compani(î^
d INTERESTING VOYAGE FROM
companies more refreftimcnts even than we fhould
have had in our own ports; fo that they did not re-
gret the demi-ration I difcontinued, having been
provided for feveral days. Some who were fo afflidled
with the fcurvy as to be given over by the furgeon,
recovered their heahh, and in (hort we had met with
a prince, whofe inclinations were fo favourable to-
wards us, that he was conftantly clafping me in his
^ms, and offering all the provifions he had.
tJ jrif-
»»^^<
■V. !^U
Departure from Refuge Harhour, in the IJlatid of Don
Martin de Mayorga, in Lat. 1S°. 38^ S. and 179».
52' E. from Paris. • - ' '
ON the 20th of March, having weathered all the
islands, I kept as clofe to the wind E. N. E. as ky
in my power, running fouth-eaft on the neareft points
to it. In this track we difcovered E. S. E. 7°. S.
a very elevated island, fifteen or lixtcen leagues dif-
tant; and at fun-fet three other islands, which ex-
tended from S, to W. S. W. 50\ W. at a diftance of
five leagues from the moft eafterly, which obliged me
to tack at 9 P. M. At one o'clock I again re-tacked
to the fouth, to approach thefe islands. We per-
ceived in thofe nearer to us forty-eight fîres.
On the 2 1 ft, at fun rife, we counted ten iilands
on the ftarboard, and fix on the larboard fide* We
pafîèd betwe::n them on the fouth, through wide
channels which they form. We faw none of them,
a-head, until, come to a vart gulf, when we difcovered,
at five or fix leagues diftance, iflands out of number,
making a very extenfive circumference, in the center
of which we were. In traverfing one of the ftraits
formed by thefe iflands, we had taken foundings ;
the plumb made it five fathoms, but only tor an in-
ft^t, the moment after the depth having greatly
increafed.
fe MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE.'^ cl?
increafed. Seeing myfelf furrounded by (o many
low iflands, or fmall iflots, between which were left
many channels, I attempted to fail through one of
thefe openings, but as we approached we perceived
that they were obftrudled by rough (helves, which
would not let me fail through the fouthern part. I
rcfolved to bear up wefterly, towards the very lofty
iflands we had defcried in the evening, at a great
diftance, not doubting that I muft find in its vici-
nity a free paiiage out of this archipelago. ' '
From the break of day, fucceflively arrived many
canoes laden with the fame fruits and provifions as
thofe of the preceding iflands. The exchange began,
fhreds of linen being the price of their commo-
dities.
The Tubou of this ifland fent me two pigs and
feme cocoa nuts, and invited me to come to the
illand, where he refided. He afterwards came him-
felf on board, when he told me be would entertain
me with the feat of wreftling, and that he would
colleél for my crew a heap of potatoes, as high as
our main-maft. He appeared jealous of the good
reception that the Tubou of Mayorga had given us.
I gave him to underfland that I would comply with
his wifhes as foon as I fliould be to the fouth of the
ifland before us, but they all agreed in informing me
that the paflhges were fhut by ihoals and reefs, andi
that on the contrary I fliould find fufficient depth by
taking the courfe of the Tubou's Ifland and the
•high one that I was already fleering for. Although
I was aifured by all that this great equi was fovereign
of forty-eight iflands, which they named to me in
the moft minute detail ; I did not perceive that they
had the fame afll:6lion and refpeéi for him as thofe
of Refuge Iflands had. Immediately, on his coming
on board, he put his beads of mother-of pearl round
my neck, as a token of clofe friendfliip ; and alter
having paflTed five or fix hours, returned to one of
k 4 the
i ■ il
i
■ *
Clii INTERESTING VOYAGE FROM
the iflands, in the expeélation that I (liould jojn him
to-morrow. . " **e^î
• I ran clofe along many {helves, and at fun-fet
found myfelf to the eaft of St. Chriilopher* Islands^
at (ix leagues diftancç, clear of the little flat islands :
but as the wind frefhened from the eaft, I remained
all night under very little lail, that I might not expole
myfelf to run upon any unobferved islot.
I gave this group of islands the name of Don Jo-
feph de Galvez. The fouthern cape of the Tubou's
Jsland is in lat. 19°. 39^. and long. 179°. 38^ W. of
jParis. .)■;, t. .: " ;!i-
At day-break of the 22d I ran under a prefs of fail
as near fouth on the next point, as poffible ; and in
following this tra6l we faw two islands before us,
which I called the Adders, beyond which was per-
ceived a great ridge, the breakers whereof were f«jen
very far ; it was five leagues from us.
The prevalent winds from the call and north
eaft, drove us forward, by which we continued our
navigation more eafy in mind, finding ourfelves de-
livered from the dangers whereto we had been ex-
pofed, as well by the islands as reefs. We faw
nothing more till the 24th, when we difcovcred in
the third quarter (between S. and W.) at fevcn
leagues diftancc, a fmall island, which I named The
Solitary. On the 27th we faw another W. S. W.
3" W. ten leagues diflant, to which I gave the
name of Vafquez. >.^; T ; , ' . --■. •■ v :'~ •
From the night of the 27th to the 28th, the wind
became outraoicous, and the fea ran very bioh. At
midnight I was obliged to lay to, till day-break,
when the weather became mild, and I fiood towards
the weft, with a light north-caltcrly wind.
On the 29th, iinding myfelf S. lat. 25". 52^ and
* What in this ifland of St. Chriftophei? Can it be the lofrv
ifland whic.i was mentioned, and to which that name was given?
It fliould have been explicit on this head.
reckon-
MANïtLA TO 3T. BLAISe. : cîiîî
reckoning myfelf 179° 17' eaft from Paris, the
wind veered to the weft, of which I took the advan-
tage to make fail to the S. E, a quarter E. wifhing to
bring myfelf more to the S. and at the iamc time
gain fome longitude towards the eafl. This route
I purfued to the 3d of April, on which day, in 30o
lat. and 174° 22'' long. Vv^. from Paris, the'wind fell
almoit into an abfolute calm.
In fuch circumitances, and on account of the con-
tinual complaints that the fhip bread was not eatable,
I thought it advifeable to look into it myfelf. When
I faw the aélual iiate in which it was, I could not
but regard my fituation as the molt dreadful, to
which thofe who navigate unknown feas, witliout
hope of any relief, can be reduced. Never Oiall I
call to mind that forrowful moment, without the rc-
çollcdtion of the fpedlacle which then came to my
view, picrcin,^ and rending my very heart. I can
witli uuth alîirM), that if God had not fuftained me
in that deplorable moment, I fiiould have fallen in
the utmoll dcfpair, feeing no appearance of being
able to continue our way.
I ordered the firft pilot, Don Jofeph Kqfquez, the
fécond, Don John d' Echeverria, and all the fea
officers to attend, and made the furgeon, Don Pedra
Carvapl, reporter of the counfel which we were
going to hold, and of the deliberations which fliould
be there taken. I conducied them, one after ano-
ther, to the bread-room, when we found millions of
cockroaches ; to convey an idea of the number of
tbefc infects, they muft nave been fccn by the eye.
This plague had fo infefted our frigate, that the holy
Father was obliged to exorcife them more than once.
For my own part, I took care to diltribute in the
cabins, bread-rooms, and throu2:hout all the fhip,
veflels* rubbed over the inlide with honey mixed uith
t*
* In the text it is wrote fpitting pots.
i !
Ill
m
■i ^•
[ugar ;
CIÎV INTERESTING VOYAGE PROM
fugar ; each clay brought me a large pail full of thofe
inieéts. I thus confumed almoft my whole ftock of
honey, while their number did not perceptibly di-
minilh. '
The bread, at firft opening the room, appeared
untouched, but near the partitions the bifcuit had
entirely diHippeared, and the floor prefented to view
nothing but a heap of bran and duft. From the
dimunition of the allowance, which order I ifliied on
the l6th of February, and from the drawback of
one ounce in each pound, which took place from the
time we left Sifiran, there ihould remain 8225lb. of
bread, (ï6 oz. to the lb.) withoi^t reckoning the other
provifions, which were in tolerable abundance : but
on that day I faw myfelf reduced to two great boxes
of dull rather than bread*. I had the three calks of
referve opened, which were well bound with iron
hoops, properly coated with pitch. There was no
appearance of their having contained any bread, they
were full of cockroaches alone.
.1 finally took the precaution of picking out as
much bread as poiUble, and inclofing it in the flag
and arm chcfts. On weighing it I found it to be
lOOOlb. weight. (l6 oz.) In the fécond place I col-
lected all the potatoes that remained among the crew,
but the provilion having been given out a fortnight
before, hardly two bafkets full could be obtained.
Thirdly, I had all the pigs and other animals killed,
except fome fowls which were kept for the fick, for
whom I abb preferved the little honey remaing from
the flock I took in at Sifiran. The fourth precau-
tion I thought necefiary to take, was inftantly to
fufpend even the allowance of bread, and to diflribute
per hc:i i to the fhip's company a fmall ration of pota-
loc?. from the piovifion which I made of them with
chc Indians, three ounces of pork and one of rice.
In all this my only aim was to prefervc life until I
I again abridge here.
might
MANILLA TO ST. BLAlSb. cW
might be ill a iituation to grant them more abundant
fupport. In (hort I refolved to divide with them my
provifions, referving as a laft refource, the two cheils,
which I looked upon as facred.
After all thefe refolutions, I took counfel with tho
officers already pointed out. I reprefcmted to them
my proceedings fince the firft: of January, what bread
ought to have remained, and what did adlually re-
main. I told them that I the more willingly laid be-
fore them the precautions I propofed taking, as they
had themfeivcs fuffered from the retrenchments I
thought it my duty to make, retrenchments which
had caufed me to be treated like a tyrant, as having
a bad heart, and as a man who had laid aiide every
fentiment of humanity : that we were adually 1760
leagues from Peru, 1 240 from Guaham in the Mari-
anne iflands : that the winds were favourable for ei-
ther the one or the other of thefe tracks, fave fome
calms or croflcs which muft always be expected in
fuch voyages; that they had themlclvcs fecnthe flate
of oar victuals; that, in fhort, I entreated them to tell
me how they would conduél themfclvei if they had
the command of thefhip in fuch circum (lances. All
unanimoufly anfwered, that death .alone could be
worfe than our prefent Itate ; that of the two routes
propofed, although either of them gave but very lit-
tle hope of fafety, they could not difpenfe with choof-
ingthat of the Mariannes, and trying whether they
could not get fome affiftance at the iflands of Mayor-
ga, not having a month's provifions. In the end the
firft and fécond pilot fupported all their rep cfcnta-
tiuns ; and myfelf, convinced that iheir advice would
be beft, befides, being unwilling to be at all accef-
fary to the lofs of fo many unhappy nien. or be obrti-
natc againlt what feemed to me moft to the King's
interetl, I gave orders for fleering to the north, with
the intention of getting forty leagues to the eailward
of thefe iflands, where I had already found, and hop-
ed
I..
Ï
Clvi INTERESTING VOYAGE PRQM
cd again to find refrcfhments. This refolution, how-
ever, I did not take without a pain ftill more acute
than that which I had felt on infpeéting our provi-
fion : I would rather have chofcn death than to run
again to the north ; and had I not given way to rca-
Ibn, I fhould have taken the mad refolution of piir-
fuing our navigation eaftward. The calmnefs of my
mind entirely forfook me; I was far from experiencing
that tranquillity wherewith I have borne up againil an
infinity of croifcs in the dangerous voyages for dif-
covcries * I had undertaken. The refleéfion that we
had no other choice left was not fufficient for my tran-
quillization,cfpecially when Ireflcéled that thisttate of
diftrefs manifcfted itfelf precifely at the time when we
furmounted the difficulties of our navigation, when
we had reached a latitude where wc could not but cx-
pe6f favourable winds, and with which I thoughtirve
might terminate our voyage. It is neverthelels cer-
tain, that if this whim of myfelf feeing into the flate
of our provifions had been a fortnight later, our great-
elt happinefs would have been to if ay in fome dcfiirt
iflandj if we had had the good fortune to fall in with
any. And even in the fituation wherein we found
ourfelves, if the refrefhmcnts fumidied i;s by the In-
dians had not been fo plentiful, I could then have
taken no other part, than to look out for fome land
whereto we could fly for refuge. It was then truly
by an aél of Providence that we M\ in with the iflands
of Mayorga, whence we had drawn fuch eflential af-
fiftance. With variable winds which blew from all
points of the horizon, I from the 4th of Ai)ril follow-
ed a northerly courfe, or that which rpproached it
neareft in the firft quarter (between N. r id E.). On
the 9th a breeze from S. E. to N. E. Legan to pre-
vail, which I availed myfelf of to get forty leagues c:i(t
* Wliat fervice would not this navigator be of to geographv,
would he communicate his dilcoveries to the public ?
of
MANILLA TO 9T. BLAISE. clvîî
of thele iflands, that I might afterwards i\nd them
with lefs difficulty by following their parallel.
The wind on the 1 6th abated, but on the 18th it
increafed, and was accompanied by ovcrcaft weather
and rain in abundance; we laid to all night. At day
break we ran for thefe iflands, but the current carried
us fome minutes to the north : the bad weather af-
forr''îd us no opportunity for taking an obfcrvation,
befules which, thefe iflands being very low, we did
not perceive them. We faw to the N. W. the ifland
,vl)ich lies S. W. 7° S. of that of Lattc, upon coming
near to which we recognized Latte at the diftance of
fix leagues, the refult of which was, that my reckon-
ing was thirty miles aftern of the frigate, and that we
had confcquently pafled between the two groupes
of the iflands of Galvez and Mayorga, at a fliort dif^
tance from both, which continual fogs and a cloudy
horizon had prevented our feeing.
As the only hope whereby the courage of my
failors was fuftained, was being able to gain the
ifland of Mayorga, I hauled my wind as clofe as
poflible, and reefed the topfails ; but the fca run-
ning high, the wind flrong, and the night dark,
obliged me to give up the idea of landing on thefe
iflands, convinced that I could not approach them
(which was at any rate very doubtful) without loflng
many days. My complement was difcouraged by the
fight of its wretched ftate, the wcakncfs of which was
f.iCh, that to hoifl: a topfail, the men of both decks
were frequently obliged to put all hands to the work.
The mofl rigorous hofpital diet could not have en-
feebled them more. Tu cheer up their fpirits, I
made them confldcr, that in our preient track, we
muft infallibly fall in with other iflands, where tbjy
might recruit their flrcngth. That the winds were
favourable, and that we every dav advanced in full
fail towards the end of our fafterings. Tranquillized
by this reafoning, they became caim under tiicir at'-
fiictions. On
civiiî
II^TfiRÉSTÏNG 1^0tA6É rROM
On the 2lft we difcovered at N. N. E. and E. N.
E. two iflands, which I named Cônfolation, becaufe
iriy crew there found fome relief, having obtained po-
tatoes, pigs, bananas, cocoa nuts, and fowls, which
the iflanders brought during the thirty hours I laid
off the coaft. Had the weather not been fo rough,
the refrefiiments would have been more plentiful ;
however, the (hip's company, by their barter, in which
their apparel was not fpared, and at the rilk of being
left abfblutely naked, made provifions for more than
a week, whereby the failors recovered their ftrength,
and were better enabled to fupport the laft misfor-
tune which awaited them. * '
As, at our approach to the ifland, we faw a very
great number of canoes, laden with provifions, com-
ing to meet us, I fufpcnded the fcanty allowance
which I furnifhed from my own ftore. It is eafy to
conceive my obje6l in this parfimony.
' The Indians of thefe, iflands fpeak the fame lan-
guage as thofe of Refuge Ifland, and their charadler
of mind is the fame. Such was the confidence they
rcpofed in us, that nineteen of them flept on board,
whether we would or not, and the next day we were
obliged to rid ourfelves of them by force.
They were defirous for me to land in their ifland,
when they would exchange a great many large hogs
with us, the fmall fize of their canoes only permitting
them to bring lelîèr ones ; but time being precioiis
I contented myfelf with feeing that no one neglected
himfelf, and that every provifion was made that cir-
cuTillanccs would admit of.
The 22nd at night I flood to the N. N. W. with
a light wind from the north*, and in this track dif-
* There is fome miftake here. I cannot think that the Spaniards
could, with a northerly wind, have fleered N. N. W. It muft
certainly be read either a north eajîerly ivhu/^ or a courfe to the
iv. N. ir.
.. covered
MANILLA TO 8T. BLAISE*
di
IX
covered on the 24th another ifland, which I named
Maurelle. The wind became calm, except fome
fqualls and tranfient puffs from the north eaft, that
prevented my Handing for the idand before fun fet.
A fouth callerly wind then fpringing up, I approach-
ed it within three leagues, but night coming on, and
the diftance being too great for the litttle canoes of
tlie Indians, made two of them, coming under fail,
and, no doubt, laden with refrefhments, return.
The winds continued to blow from the firft and
fécond quarter (from N. to E. and E. to S.) fomc-
times frelh,»*and then fo faint that they fell into a
calm. I took advantage of every favourable mo-
ment, and found myfelf, on the 3d of May, in 6®
lat. In this pofition we found a very low ifland,
lurrounded with a fandy fhore, tenninating in one
impenetrable reef, near which I could reach no bot-
tom with a line of upwards of 50 fathoms. The
illand was covered with a thick plantation of cocoa-
nut trees*. This fight was the more agreeable to
the fhip's company, as the provifions obtained at
Confolation Illand were exhaufted that very day.
I fent the long-boat, armed, to try to bring us a
good fupply of cocoa-nuts ; this the breakers of the
reef prevented. The frigate, however, got fo near
the coaft, that the natives fpoke to us from the beach,
but we could dcvife no means of getting nearer.
However the Indians put their canoes to fea with
extreme difficulty, the reef being a great impedi-
ment. They reached us in great numbers, though
the hazard of the navigation had prevented them
from bringing but very few nuts. They endeavoured
to tow the frigate, by fallening feveral lines to her
* It will be prefently feen that this ifland was called TJland of
Cecal. Cocal fignifies a plantation of cocoa palm', (cocotaie) but
I did uot dare to liik that term.
prow
CÎX INTEllKSTlKb VOVAÔR P»0^<
prow, and paddlinp^ ail at once tov/ards the ifland,
from whence they flung ropes to haul us in. Si:<
hours having paflcd without their beinff able to cfTccfi
it, and feeing noprofpedl of ultimate luccefs, I made
fail towards the N. W. ?'
The inhabitants of this iflot already began to vary
much in their prot iinciation of feveral words, com-
mon to the other iflands. They were fo fmearcd
over with paint, that one might have taken them tor
images of demons. They, for the moft part, had
long beards, hanging down upon their breafts. Near
the cocoa-nut ])lantation there were fo many huts,
placed in fuch excclL'nt order, that the population
of the ifland might be concluded to be confider-
able.
On the Gth I was under the nccefïîty of reducing
the allowance of bread to rive ounces, pork two,
and beans two, which I drew from my own private
ilock, there being no more in the king s flores ; and
although I thought it impofîible for any crew to
fupport nature with ten ounces of bad vi6luals, the
dreadful flate of our provifions did not permit mc
to give out more. . ,t \)<v- . v i- >.
The fame day, in the evening, we faw another
ifland lower, but much larger than the preceding
one. I named it St. Auguflin, and left it fix leagues
to the S. W.
We had, in recrofïing the line on the 13th, fqualls
from every point of the compafs. All the remarks
I had made on the flate of the horizon, fnice leav-
ing Cocal Iflands, convinced me that we had left
many lands to the cafl, which no doubt compofe,
with Solomon's Iflands, a firing more or Icfs open to
the fouth of the cquinodlial line.
During the fhort time that the allowance of*brca(i
remained at fix ounces, there was not a iinglc man
among the crew but complained of a weaknefs in
the
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE. clxi
the ftomach. The whole of them were Co feeble
that all hands together could not hoiû the fails
without great difficulty, which forced us frequently
to difpenle with manoeuvres that would have been
of great utility.
On the 22nd I calculated that I was upon the
(hoals of St. Bartholomew. Prudence would have
uiKJoubtedly required me fometimcs to lay to during
the night, particularly as the wind was not only
pretty frefh but even violent ; but I was too much
affected with the lamentable ftatc of my crew, the
majority of whom were attacked by the fcurvy, ow-
ing to the bad quality of the bread. I crowded fail,
aiKJ the extreme vigilance I recommended to every
individual of the (hip's company, fupplicd the place
of thofe precautions which, under any other circum-
Itanccs, I fliould have taken.
Our latitude on the 24th, was 13° l6^ N. and all
danger over ; I therefore fleered W. by N. W. for
Guam, the capital of the Marianas, where I came to
anchor on the 31 ft, in Umata road, and foon re-
ceived the necefîàry affiftance for properly viélualling
my ftiip's company. As I had only one anchor, too
little to truft to in the road, I fent an exprefs to Don
Phillip Zerain, governor of the ifland, whom I made
acquainted with the adtual flate of my vefîèl, and
the objedl of my commiffion, defiring him to put
me in a liate for fctting fail as foon as poflible ;
declaring that however bad the condition of my
fails and rigging, I was neverthelcfs refolved to
make the belt of my way for New Spain, to place
in the hands of his excellency the viceroy of Mex-
ico, the important difpatches with which I was
charged. I added, that I hoped he would facilitate
my being furnilhed with provifions, of thofe articles
of food indifpenfable for fo^long a navigation. That
I did not demand the provifions with which it is
cufiomary to furnifh king's fhips, they would not
Vol. I. 1. have
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Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716)872-4503
fclxii INTERESTING VoVAGtE FIt(5^f
have been found" in this prefidio, but fuch as could
be got together in the ifland, provided that their
quantity might make them equivalent to the ordi-
nary provilions.
The governor took upon himfclf to judge of every
thing neccflary for the fuccefs of my commiihon.
Conceiving the confequence of not being driven by
the wind out of the roadftead while my crew wcra
bereft of food, he fent fifteen days' provifions in rice,
maize, and hogs, on board, without difcontinuinç
the daily refrefhments we were furnifhcd with for the
re-eflabliflimcnt of the health of thofe afflicted with
the fcurvy, and preparing my crew for a new voyr.ge.
He likcwifc ordered to be brought from a prefidio,
ten leagues from Umata, a very old anchor, wanting
it is true a quarter of the llock, but I repaired it fo
as to make it fit for fcrvice, and by the help of ano-
ther wooden anchor, which I conftru6tcd with my
carpenter's aiîiftancc, we were, at the end of eight
days, riding at three anchors, though not to the
entire fiitisfaétion of the crew.
Nothing now remained for us but to procure wa-
tei^, to afiurc our fubfiftence whether at anchor or
under fail. Since my arrival I had fuccelîivcly put
on fhorc all my empty water cafks. It was not long
lince they had been filled at the iflands of Mayorga.
What then mud be our aflonifhmcnt, when wetounJ
only two pipes of water left, one of which wanted a
whole barrel of being full ! I rcquefted the governor,
his major, and all my crew to be witnefies with ihcir
"own eyes of this enormous wallc. All returned God
"thanks for his having faved us frojn the imminent
danger with which we were threatened.
As all the flavcs and heads of the barrels were eaten
throughout, we were obliged to repair them anew;
but after this labour, the pipes which before held fix
barrels, now contained only four ; befides we coiilJ
only mak*^. up 48 pipes from thcfe wrecks. The
govcr-
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE. clxul
gnvcrnor feeing the infufiiciency of this fupply, fent
on board 30 cannes^ each holding eight quartiUos *.
This fuccoiir was certainly unequal tO the raragè we
had reafon to fear from our deflru6live infé6ts. I
however took courage, hoping that in the abundance
of our provifions they would ealily fatiate themfelves.
The eatables I procured, without coll: to the royal
treafure, were 140anègues| of maize, dp of rice, 30
pia:s, 20 young bulls, (perhaps oxen) 45 • ' • t
of dried meat, fait, butter, lamp-oil, brandy made of
cocoa nuts for the crew, 6o cocoa nuts for the hogs,
and all the other articles of importance necefïîiry fora
(hip. Under more favourable circumftances we fhould
not have been fatisiied with fuch provilions. I now
got every thing in readincfs for fetting fail on the 20th
June 1781, for new Spain, to complete the fulfil-
ment of a commiffion, the refult of which might be
highly beneficial to the welfare of the State;
ie*jc<«4
Departure from the Road of Umata, in the IJIand cf
Guam, the Capital of the Maria?ias, fituated in 30®
10^ N. Lat. 21" 28^ Long, of ManiUa.
Ï GOT under way the 20th June, ahd onte more
experienced the great weaknefs of my cablesj par-
* This is probnhly a rtiiftake. Accortiing to Pàuâlons Treatife
m Weight s and Meaf lires, &c. the thirty Cannes, of eight quartiUos
each, would only have held 12c Paris pints, and above one haJf
lefs, or only fixty pints, by Sejournaht's Diétituiaïy. This aflift-
ance would have been very trifling. It muft apparently be read
800 or 8000 quartiUos.
t The Anegue, or rather Fanegue, contains very near four
bufliels and a half, Paris meafure.
} This abréviation probably means Ancgoes. The author has,
however, el'fewhere ufed it for Ar-cbes. The arrobe, for fubftances,
is a weight of twenty-five pounds, forty-five arrobes would only
make, therefore, 1125 pounds, which would not be a very great
itock. ît.ii.?wYfji'}c-y Wj . imn :p;:if ^
1 2 ticularly
Cliiv INTERESTING VOYAGE FROM
ticularly of that attached to the anchor which the
Governor had procured. The anchor was fcarcely
got out of the water before the cable broke, and the
fh\p in cafting having greatly increafed the depth of
water, it funk beyond the reach of the cable.
The feafon permitted us to take a northerly courfe,
the winds from È. and E. N. E. carried me to lat.
20^ !(/. We were afterwards becalmed for feven
whole days, during which time we only moved with
the currents, whereby we were drifted to the N. W.
' On the 3d July, in 24'» 26' lat., the wind of the
fourth quarter (between W. and N.) began to blow
now with great violence, and then more faintly ; it
carried mc on the 7th to 25° g^ lat., and I then fup-
pofed I might be off the Great- Volcano Ifland. This
route we continued to the 1 1th, when finding my felf
in 27« 52' of Iht., I judged that I might l?e 25
leagues to the eaft of the ifland of Bad-Shelter, and
that 1 had cleared all the firing of the Marian Iflands.
The wind then veered to the third quarter, (between
S. and W.) and I flood to the N. E., always endea-
vouring to get a higher latitude, for the purpofe of
falling in with a frefh weflerly wind. Arrived at 40^
lat., I fleered E. by N. E. as dw as the winds vould
permit, but finding that I was in lat. 43°, long. 179<*
28' E. from Paris, the wind fhifted to the fécond
quarter (between E. and S.) and it became fo violent
as to oblige me to lie by two days. t -: sS;
. The 5th Augufl the wind blew from the N. W.,
I fleered E. by'S. E. till the 13th. In this interval
the wind came from every point of the com.pafs, fixing
at lafl in the fécond and firft quarter. I availed my-
felf to the utmoft of thefe variations to proceed eait-
- ward.
•^ On the 30th I was in N. lat. 37» 5', and I reckon-
*ed my longitude 144° 17' W. of Paris!, and 200
ileagucb from Cape Mendocino. The wind being
then in the fourth quarter, I flood eaftward until the
\ . . • 3d
¥s
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE. clxV
3d September, when we faw fea-weed, and trunks of
fir-trees floating on the water, the firft (ign of thç
proximity of the northern coaft of California. To get
nearer it I bore up E. S. E.
The fea on the 4th changed colour, and the fight
of fome fmall birds was a confirmation of our not
being far from a land which we fhould not be long
before we came in fight of. ,
On the 8th I was off Point Pedernales or Gun-
Flints, at the difiance of five leagues. Thefe bearings
placed me in 123° 3'' long. W. of Paris. By reckon-
ing I was in 130° 34'', lb that my calculation was
122 leagues wrong, by which I made myfelf too
much to the well.
On getting fight of this Point I made for Cape St.
Lucas. In the way I palled to the cad of the liland
of Guadaloupe at the diftance of eight leagues. The
weather was calm for fome days, after which on the
20th, I came in fight of Morne St. Lazarus, and was
on the 22d, near C;ipe St. Lucas.
On the 2ôth after fome calms, during which I was
almoft always within fight of the land of this Cape,
a terrible hurricane arofc, that in the fpace of fix
hours went round from the cafl to the north, weft
and fouth, with fueh violence, that notwithftand-^
ing the impetuofity of the fea, which was againft
us, we ran feven miles and a half an hour under
the fore-fail only. Doubtlefs we fhould have
been dilmafl.ed, had the tempeft continued much
longer.
The fame day, when the hurricane had fubfided,
I let every fail and fl:ood for the Maria Iflands, which
I doubled to the north on the 26th and 27th at
night, and anchored in the roadftead of St. Bias, in
lat. 210 3(y long. 107° 6' W. of Paris. I was fo for-
tunate as to bring home my crew fafe and found,
notwithftanding the horrible havoc made by the
cockroaches in our provifions, and the mifery which
1 3 was
Clxvi INTERESTING VOYAGE FROM
was the rcfult of it, with the lofs of only two men,
one of whom died in the Port of Sifiran before our
departure, and the other was attacked by a phthifis
when he embarked *.
F. A. MAURELLE.
,St. Bias, lyth September, 1781, on board
the La Princeffa Frigate.
»»>N-»4
Extraâifrom the Narrative of a Voyage made In 1779^
hy Don Francis Anthony Maurelle, Etifeigne de Fré-
gate, in the Service of the King of Spain, for the DiJ-
covery of the Weji Coaji of North America.
THE Spaniards have within a few years under-
taken three voyages for examining the v.efl coaft
of North America. In the firft, l3on John Perez,
firfl: pilot, got as high a3 55° lat., and on his returji
twice reconnoitred the coafl between this point
and the port of Monterey. , ,
V For the fécond voyage, undertaken in 1775, a fri-
gate and fchooner were fitted out. The command cf
the fchooner was given to Don John Francis dc la
Bodega y Quadra, lieutenant de vaifllcau. Don Mau-
relle, who accompanied Don de la Bodega, and was
then but a fécond Pilot, had given a iketch of this
expedition, a copy of which fell into the bunds of
the Englifh. Sir Daines Barrington publiflicd an
Englifh tranflation of it in England, and Captain
Cook mentions it in the account of his third voyage.
But Captain Dixon, in the narrative of his voyage in
* I have not added any remark to the account of this voyage
which Maurelle has termed interefting ; but as in hydrogiaphy, the
leaft exaft journals may be ferviceable in fome degree, notwith-
ftanding the fomewhat fevere judgment of La Pcroufe upon it, in
the extraét from his correfpondence in the fécond volume, I
thought it might be of iife to fome navigators, or throw light on
fome geographical difcuflions.— /><:«c;& Eiiitor.
' • thcfe
MANILLA TO ST. BLAI8B. clxvi|
thefe Teas, accufes Don Maurelle of manifoft falfe-
hood ; according to him it is an indilputable fadt,
that this officer has never been in the feas where he
loads of having made fruitlefs rcfearches. The ac-
cnlation is ftrong, and if well founded^ Don Man-
lellc is entitled to no conHdencc what ver. " We
" endeavoured," fays this navigator, " to find out the
" ftraits of Admiral Fuentes, though we had not hither-
" to difcovei'ed the archipelago of St. Lazarus through
" which we failed. After all thefe unavailing re-
" fearchcs, we can pronounce this (Irait not to be in
" exillencc." There, fays Captain Dixon, fpcaking
of Queen Charlotte's Iflands : " the fituation of thefe
" ii^ands, viz. from 54° 20' to 51» 50'' N. lat., and
" iio'.n 130" to 133° 30' W. long, evidently fhews,
" that they arc the archipelago of St. Lazarus/' Buf
is it fully proved, that what Captain Dixon calU
Queen Charloties JJlandSf is really a groupe of fcveral
iflaiuls ? " 'i here is every reafon to believe it, by con-
*' fidcring the number of fniall ftraits which have
" been fccn in ranging along the coaft." But may
not thefe fmall ftraits be nothing but creeks, none
of them having yet been penetrated ? Captain Dixon
had other aftiiirs to attend to ; his obje6l was not to
make difcoveries, but to purchafe fine furs cheap, and
fell them dear at China. Neither is he the author of
the narrative. It is, he fays in the introduélion, by
a perfon as little verfed in a literary career as aecuf-
toined to a maritime life. But Captain Dixon tells
us in the introduélion, I hat he has carefully corre6fed
what relates to navigation. The whole is, undoubt-
edly, very well correéled ; but to fupport the errone-
ous opinion which people appear to be in as. to the
reality of Admiral Fuentes' dilcoveries, it vvere un-
neceliiu-y to tax with jmpofition a n^ivigj^tpr vvhofe
fole objc(9: was to make dilboyerjes.
Maurclle's difcoveries, in this fécond expedition,
extended to the 58th degree of latitude. Don Maur
relic has particularized them on a chart, which may
... 1 4 probably
clxviii iNTETiESTii^ô voVagé prom
probably riot have fkllen into the hands of the Eng-
lifh : thé Spaniards will perhaps publifh it, arid the
difcovcries of Maurclle may then be combined with
thofe of Cook and Dixon. Don de la Bodega, and
Don Maurelle, difcovered, among other places, in
55° 18' lat., the entrance of an harbour, which they
fuppofed to be a good one, and named it the Entrance
of BucareUi, in honour of friar Don Anthony Maria
Biicarelli y Urfua, Viceroy of Mexico, who fpared
nothing, as far as depended upon him, to facilitate
the fuccefs of thcfe expeditions. He difcovered alfo
two very good harbours ; that of Guadelupa in sy'»
1 1', and Los Remedies in 57° IS''. Cook, in his third
voyage, faw thefc harbours, but did not put in there.
A third expedition was, in 1777, ordered by the
King of Spain, whereby he intended to complete the
exploration of the N. W. coaft of America, from
58" to 70°. Don Bucarelli equipped two frigates;
the la Princeflîi commanded by Don Ignace Arteaga,
lieutenant de vaillèau ; the Favourite, by Don de la
Bodega, who took Maurelle, then enfcigne de fré-
gate, as his fécond captain. Their firft place of ren-
dezvous was agreed to be at the entrance of Buca-
relli, where they were to take in wood, water, &c.
On the nth February, 1779, they left the har-
bour of St. Bias, which they place in lat. 21° 30' N.,
arvd long. 107® 6' W. of Paris. They arrived the 3d
May at the entrance of Bucarelli, the geographical
lituation of which is, by this account, in lat. 55° 18'
N., and long. 139° 1^'' ^- of Paris. There docs not
appear to be ground for calling in queftion the accu-
racy of the latitudes determined by Don Maurelle; the
fame cannot be faid of the longitudes, which were pro-
bably only determined by account. According to an
bbferyation taken by Cook the preceding year, of the
coafts near the entrance of Bucarelli, that entrance
muft be very nearly 227° E of Greenwich, or 135 j°
W. of Paris.
V ' .i * V,» J •.•«,""■
/»i-/ -l.'/;i' .•-■/>( ,;;
The entrance ot Bucarelli intfoduced the Spaniards
into
MANILLA TO ST. BLAlÔfi.
clxix
into a vail gulph, where they anchored the 3d May
in a port, as they fay, inferior to none in Europe.
They named it Port of the Crofs (La Crux.)
Don Maurelle was difpatched on the 18th of May
with the two long boats to furvey the gulph all round.
In this expedition, which lafted till the 12th of June,
he took the bearings of all the capes, iflands, and
principal parts of the great gulph, and delineated all
the creeks, bays, and particular ports. All tbefe bays
and harbours are, fays he, good and fecure. He
named thcnn all, and afterwards conftruéled a large
and very exa6l plan of the whole of the great gulph.
It ismuchtobe wiftied that this plan were made public,
as well as the chart which he compofed of the coafis
and iflands difcovcrd by the Spaniards in the courfc
of their expedition. The chart would not, however,
be fo efl'ential as the plan, the fame coaft having been
vifited the year preceding by Cook, though fome
particulars might be found upon it which had ck-aped
the Englifh argonaut. Don Maurelle met with but
few habitations in his expedition, feeing only one vil-
lage, fituate at the top of a fteep mountain, which
could only be afcended by a flight of flops, or rather
wooden ladder, whence if the foot flipped, one mufl
fall down the precipice.
The Spaniards were not long in the port of the
Crofs (La Cruz) without being vifited by the Indians
in its vicinity. Traffic commenced, the Indians giv-
ing them furs, ami various trifles, for glafs beads,
pieces of old iron, &c. From this barter, the Spa-
niards were enabled to form a pretty good idea of
their genius, ofîcnfive and detenfive weapons, manu-
fadlures, &c.
They are of a clear olive colour, many of them
having notwithflanding a perfeetly white Ikin. Their
countenance is well proportioned in all its parts.
They are robufl, courageous, arrogant, and warlike.
They cloath themfelves, apparently with the fur of
one
clxX INTERESTING VOYAGE PROM
one or more undrcfied ildns of otters, fea wolves,
benades, (a ipecics of deer) bears, or other animals
which thoy take in the chace. Thcfe drefljes cover
them from the neck to the middle of the leg. Se-
veral of thtm wear boots of fmooth Ikin, not unlike
the Englifh boots, ej^cept that thofc of the Indians
open before, and arc laced m|V vyith a ilrjng, Th ir
hats arc woven from fine bark of trepifii Vbc form of
which is like a funnel or cone. At the wrift& tlujy
have bracelets of copper, iron,' c»r for vvaat (it* thcfe
metals, fins of whale ; and round the neck, necklaces
of fmall fragments of the lone ol" fifti, or otIi'".r ani-
mals, or even copper necklaces as thick as two fingers.
Their ear-rings are of motl cr of pearl, or plates of
copper, on which is emboiiul a topaz-coloured lorin,
accompanied with jet beads. Tiicir hair is long and
thick. They ufe a comb very like ours to hold it
together in a fmall queue from the middle to its ex-
tremity ; a narrow ribbon ol coarfe linen woven on
purpofe, ferves as a ligament.
They wear alio as a covering a kind of fearf *,
about a varc -{- and a half long, and a vare wide, wo-
ven like the peillons % of Peru, with a fringe half a
quarter of a vare wide, the thread of which is regu-
larly twilled.
The drcfs of the women is a proof of the modelly
and decency of their manners. Their phyliognomy
is agreeable, their colour frelh, their cheeks of a live-
ly red, and tlieir hair long, which they plait into our
trefs. They vyear a long robe of fmooth Ikin tied
* In the Spanifb it is algunas prefadas I do not know whether
prefada fignifies any thing but a green colour. Prefadas is perhaps
written for frafadas, a covering. P. for F, and f for z, frequently
occur in the manufcript.
t The Spanifh vare is about three French feet in length.
+ The Spanilh peillon is a fpecies of ancient robe, which is yet
in tile at Peru. I have not been able to find out of what texture
it was. • f/. 'Uii-j-F^'TUfi -tei^Vi:;»; i;;';oi')
about
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISB. clxXI
about the loins, Ibmcthing fimilar to that of a nun ;
it covers thcin from the neck to the feet : the fleeves
reach down to the wrifts. On this gown they put
many ikins of otters, or other animals, to defend
tlicni from the inclemency of the weather. Many of
them, if better drelled, mig:ht difpute the prize of
beauty with the fined: Spanilh women ; but not con-
tent with the charms bellowed upon them by nature,
ihev have reeourfe to art, not to embelli (h but dis-
fiirure themfelves. All the married women have a
larfje a[)crture in the lower lip, which is filled upbv a
piece of wood of an ov;il form, the fmalleft diameter
of which ii nearly an inch ; the older a wpnjan i%
the j;reater is the extent of this beautiful ornament.
It renders them frightful, particularly the old wo-
men, whofe lip, deprived of its natural fituation, and
drawn down by the weight of this admirable jevi'el,
neceiliirily hangs in a very difagreeable nuumcr.
The girls only wear a copper needle, which crof icji
the lip, where the ornament is intended allerwarcU
to be pfaeed.
Thefc Indians ufe, in war, cuirafîès and flioulder
pieces, not unlike, in workmanfhip, the \vh;debonc
flays of Europeans. Narrow boards form, in fome
meafure, the woof of this texture, and threads are the
warp; by thefe means the whole is very flexible, and
Jeav es the arm a free motion for wielding the wea-
pons. They wear round the neck a large coarfe gor-
get, which covers them up to the eyes, and their
head is protected by a helmet, ordinarily made of
the head of fome wild beafl. From the waift to the
feet they have a kind of apron of the fame tex-
ture as their cuirafs. Laftly, a fine ikin* hangs
from the fhoulder to the knee. With thefc arms
* In the Spanifli it is written quera, which I do not believe to be
a Spaniûi word. 1 fuppofed thdt it flioul'i be made caera, the name
of a fpecies of ikin garment.
they
clxxii IlfTERESTINO VOYAQE FROI^
they arc invulnérable to their enemies ; but they
cannot move with equal agility as if they were lefs
encumbered. Arrowa arc their otîcnfive weapons.
Bows, the (Irings of which are woven, like the large
firing of our bell mufical inlbuinciits ; lances four
vares in length, headed with iron ; knives of the fame
métal, longer than European bayonets, a weapon
which, however, is not common among them ; fmall
hatchets of filex, or green ftone, fo hard as to cleave
the clofeft wood, without turning its edge.
The pronunciation of their language is extremely
difficult, fpçaking from the throat with a motion of
the tongue againft the palate. The little ufe the wo-
men can make of their lower lip is a great impedi-
ment to the plain nefs of the language. The Spa-
niards could neither pronounce nor write the words
they heard. ,
Thefe Indians, from their vivacity and attention to
keep the market, eftablilhed at the port, well fup-
plied, it may be concluded, are tolerably laborious.
They continually brought ftuiFs, well woven, and
{haded with different colours ; (kins of fea and land
wolves; ottei-s, bears, and other fmaller animals. Of
thefe Ikins fome were ravv,others drefled. At this mar
kct we alfo found coverlets * of common cloth, inter-
mixed with brown and black colours, very well woven,
but in fmall quantities. Large ribbons of the fame,
which might be compared to that of the Spanifh offi-
pers* mattrefîès. Skeins of thread, of which this
ploth was made ; wooden trenchers, prettily worked ;
little boats, or canoes, painted of fevcral colours,
the figures of which reprefcnted heads with all their
parts ; perfect imitations, in wood, of frogs, which
Opened like fnuft' boxes, and ferved for them to keep
their trinkets in ; boxes, made of fmall planks, of a
* TrrfaJas again occurs here. I fupp ofcdyraîflJar, bed cover-
lets, were iveant.
cubical
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE. clxxiti
cnbical foirn, three quarters of a vare on each (ide,
with figures of difFereot animals, well fkctched, on
the oulfide, the covers mndc like the etwees of
Flanders, having indented edges, fo as to fliut into
the body of the box ; animals of wood, both tcrref-
trial and aerial ; figures of men, of the fame mate-
rials, headed with helmets, to reprefent the heads of
different beafls ; fnarcs and nets for fifhing ; copper
necklaces and iron bracelets, which they would not
part with, but at a very high price ; and beaks, from
whence they drew a found like that of a German
flute. The principal officers picked out from this
merchandifc what they liked beft, leaving the reft to
the difpofal of the (liip*s company.
The Indians perceiving that the Spaniards were
very dainty in fifli, did not let them want for choice.
Thofe of which there was the grcateft abundance
was falmon, and a kind of folc or turbot, three varos
and a quarter long, and proportionably broad and
thick; alfo cod, pilchard, and fi(h refcmbling trout.
Hence it may be inferred, that this gulph muft be well
filled with fifb. The banks likevvife arc lined with
fhells. The quantity of mother-of-pearl that thefc
Indians cut up to make ear-rings with, awakened
the curiofity of the Spaniards, who endeavoured to
find out whether thefe people had not in their pofîèf-
fion, or the country did not produce pearls or pre-
cious flones. Their refearches were fruitlefs, find-
ing only ilones, which they judged to be of a me-
tallic quality, and which they put on board the Ihip,
not having the necefîàry means for cxtraéling the
metal they might contain.
The food of thefe Indians is frefh or dry fifh,
boiled or roafted ; herbs and roots, the produce of
their mountains, and that in particular called in
Spain fea-parfley ; and, laftly, on the flefh of ani-
mals which they take in the chace, which muft un-
•doiibtedly
CÏXXÎV INTERÉSrmG VOYAGE PRCnVf
doubtedly be very plentiful, by the great number of
dogs they breed up for that purpofe.
The Spaniards perceived no veftige of wor(l)ip
among them, except their fometimes bending to-
wards the fun, but whether as an a6l of devotion,
they could not afccrtain. Don Maurclle, in his ex-
pedition round the gulph, found, in two iflands,
three bodies laid in boxes, limilar to thofe before de-
Icribed, and decked in their furs. Thefc biers were
placed in a little hut, on a platform of the branches
of trees.
The country is very hilly, the mountains very
high, their Hope extending, in almoft every inftancc,
down to the leti. The foil, limeftone, is notwith-
ftanding covered with a very impenetrable foreft
of lofty, thick, and lirait pine trees. As their
roots cannot Ihike deep into the ground, the vio-
lence of the wind often tears them up. The)i rot,
and change into a light mould, in which grows a
bufhy thicket, wherein are found nettles, camomile,
wild celery, anife, a fpecies of cabbiige, celandine,
elder, wormwood, forrcl, and, no doubt, along the
rivers, many other plants.
t The Spaniards favv ducks, mews, divers, kites,
ravens, geefe, cranes, goldfinches, and other little
birds, to them unknown.
The trafHc between the Spaniards and Indians was
perfe6lly undiflurbed ; the former always keeping
upon their guard, rendy to defend themfelves in cilc
of attack, the others contenting themfelves with
Healing to their utmoft, fecretly if not obferved, and
openly if they thought they were the ftrongcfi. For
tlie better maintenance of peace, the Spaniards flut
their eyes to petty thefts ; but if any were committed
too much to their prejudice, they feized upon feme
canoe, or pcrfonnge of diftimSlion, which was not
releafed till reliitution was made ; but this was at-
tended with no bloodflied.
The
MANILLA. TO ST. BLAISE. clxXV
The defire of procuring iron, cloth, and other
(lutft, was ^vith fome Indians, prevalent over pater-
nal love, they felling their children for fome vares of
ftuffs, or broken pieces of iron hoops. The Spaniards
purchafed, in this manner, three young boys, one
live or (ix, the other four, and the third nine or
ten years of age ; not to make flaves, bat Chriltians
of them ; hoping, at the fame time, to derive from
them ufeful information as to the nature of the
country and its inhabitants. Thefc children were
fo rejoiced at being with the Spaniards, that they
concealed themfelves when their fathers came on
board, for fear of being returned to their parents.
"With the fame view two little girls had likewife been
bought ; one, very ugly, fcven or eight years old,
the other younger and better made, but lickly, and ,
almoft at death's door.
The oldeft of the boys appeared to have a vivacity
of fpirit and undcrfianding by no means common ;
he foon made himfelf beloved by the whole crew.
He (ignified, by very expreflivc figns, what his
countrymen meditated, what they ought to do, and
what was the end they propofed. He took the fol-
(liers by the hand, condu6led them to the depui of
arms, put the mulkets in their hands, made ligns for
them to be charged, and give fire upon fuch or
fiich a canoe, but to fpare fuch and fuch another,
which belonged to friends. The environs of this
port are therefore inhabited by different tribes ini-
mical to each other.
At the new and full moon the fea rifes in the
harbour of La Cruz to feventeen feet three inches
Englifh ; the water is there high at a quarter paft
twelve at uoon. The iowell: tides are fourteen feet
three inches ; he night tides exceeded thofe of the
day by one foot nine inches.
The fouth, Ibuth-eaft, and fouth-weft winds being
aUvays accompanied by fogs, and continual rain,
the
Il
ekxvî INTERESTIirG VOYAGE FILOU
the Spaniards quitted La Cruz on the 1 5,th of June,
end gainçd the port of St. Anthony, with the in-
tent of getting with greater eafe out of the gulph,
with the firft north- wefterly winds, which they eould
not do till the 111: of July,
The l6th of July they difcovered, half a league
to leeward, a (hoal, which they calculate to be in
lat. 59° 2' and bng. * 147'»46^ They at a great
diftancefaw Mount St. Elias, whofe fummit they fay
equals that of Orifba in height.
The 17th, at noon, Cape St. Elias bore W. 40° N.
at three leagues diftance. Its latitude they eilimate
at 59" 63^ its longitude at 149° 2(/. The charts
reprefent an ifland in the vicinity of this cape : the
point of this ifland neareft the cape bore N. 18^
W. five leagues ofF. The two points formed be-
tween them a channel three leagues wide. From
the cape the coaft runs to the north, inclining a Ijttle
towards the north-weft. In this part they diftin-
guifhed large bays, which they think muft be well
■ftieltered harbours.
^ This ifland, fays Don Maurelle, is larger than is
laid down in the charts. The Spaniards, being but
half a league diftant, difcovered a (hoal to the S. W.
They got fight, on the 18th, of a vaft gulph W. of
Cape St. Elias, ten leagues in depth. On the 20th
two canoes of a fingular conflrudlion came along fide,
very thin boards or planks form the wood work, which
are attached to each other by indifferently fi:rong
cords, leaving however fpaces between them; fothat
without the ikin, it would make a true flceleton of a
boat. This ficcleton is furrounded completely with
ikins of animals, leaving a round aperture only at top,
•which ferves as a girdle for him that manages the ca-
noe, and to prevent the water from getting in at this
♦ All the latitudes are to the N. the longitudes to the W. of
Paris. We have already obferved, that thcfe longitudes cannot
be depended upon.
orifice,
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE. clxxvli
orifice, the conduilor cloathes himfelf with a (kin
made of bladders, tied exactly to fit the edges for the
opening. Thefe canoes, it is conceived, mufi: be very
light. Their form is exadlly that of a harp, their
prow having a fimilar curve to that whereon the
(brings of the harp are faftened.
The Indians who manage thefe canoes were cloath-
ed with a Ikin jacket, which was a fufficient protec-
tion againft the cold. Their hats refembled thofe of
the inhabitants of the port of Bucarelli, large glafs
beads were the pendants they wore at their ears.
Their fiihing inftrumcnts are worked as if by a lathe
with the greateft nicety, à great rod, blown up blad-
der, harpoon, the point of which is bone, and a long
cord made with the entrails of animals properly twift-
ed. They flrike the otter or fea wolf with the har-
poon, which thus ftruck attempts to dive, but is pre-
vented by the bladder, and the Indian foon draws him
within reach. The young Indians embarked at Bu-
carelli were defirous of communicating with tl>efe,but
they neither undertlood the other. Thefe two canoes
induced the Spaniards to put in at the neighbouring
coaft, where they came to anchor the 20th of July at
midnight, but early they next day they gained a creek
which bore from them north, difl:ant one league.
They were fheltered from N.W. to the N. and S ; a lit-
tle further in they would have been proteéled from
every wind. This port, which they named St. James's
Harbour, lies in lat. 00° l6' and long. 157° 52'. To
fatisfy themfelves whether they were near an illand
or continent, they fentofFthe long boat, which after
having failed fix or feven leagues to the N. N. W. re-
ported that the coafi: turned E. whence they con-
cluded that the land near which we were at anchor
was an island *. i» • ' • -
' ^ :... .^^. fy .y • -■ ,..:\:r^-n -.-.-- Six
* Upon a thorough inveftigation, T think that this port is near
Cape Hinchinbrooke. Cook took no obfervations about this Cape,
You L m joeither
Clxxviii INTERESTING \'OYAGE PROM
Six canoes of Indians about 26 cubits long and 4
wide, lined with white ikins, and by no means unlike
the European boats in conftrudion, paid a vilit to the
Spaniards. Before approaching, they hoiftcd three
flags, the firft of a carnatic colour, the fécond white,
and the third blue ; but they ftruck them before they
came along fide. Their wives accompanied theni,
whofe fex is diftinguifhed by glafs beads or other bau-
bles hanging from both fides of the mouth. They
are in other refpe(?ls nearly the fame in drefs as thç
women of Bucarelli.
The commandant having been once a fifhing in
the long-boat, it was very foon filled with fiih of an
agreeable flavour, which they called pargo muhto, but
the fi(h of which there was the greateft abundance in
thofe feas, is falmon, the pargo mulato being only
plentiful in the little creeks which line the (horc,
The Indians inhabiting this country are robuft,
tall, and large in proportion, induftrious, and thieves.
The points of copper with which all their arrows arc
tipped, made the Spaniards believe that there arc
mines of this metal in the country. s
The 28th July our navigators weighed anchor to
double a point which they ïiw in the S. W. 50° S. at
1 1 leagues diftance (probably the fouthcrn point of
Montagu Island). They wilbcd not to lofe fight of
land, but the rain and fogs would not always permit
them. They lay from the 30th to the Sift, when
they found themfelvcs m the vicinity of a group of
islands extending from S. S. W. to S. S. E. They
came to anchor on the I ft of Auguft to the S. of one
of thefe islands, which they named Isle deRegla(Rulc
neither tlid Dixon. The long boat could have penetrated into the
bay, which is called Rofe Bay upon Dixon's Chart j and feeing it
entirely ciofed to the E. its courfe might have been continued to-
wards the coaft running to the N. N. VV. As for the reft, I think
the tranfcriber may have written for lonj^irude 157 min. 52
deg.; long. 153 min. 52 deg. — The naanufciipt abounds with
faults. - ^ . .. ^ . .
■ ■ ' Lland).
and A
unlike
to the
I three
white,
)re they
I them,
ler bau-
They
as the
hing in
II of an
Jato, but
iance in
ng only
jore,
I robui^,
thieves.
ows arc
here arc
ichor to
)0° S. at
d into the
d feeing it
itjnued to-
ft, I think
; mill. 52
iinds with
MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE. ' clxxi»
Island). They place it in 155° 52^ of longitude by ac-»
count, and SQ" 8' of latitude by obfervation *. Don
Maurclleis of opinion, that thefe islands form what
on Bellin's chart, engraved in 1 766, is called Cape St,
Enmgene ; the latitude is the fame. The Ruifians
obferving this groupe at a diftance, might not have
fecn the intermediate channels which divide it into
fcvcral islands, and therefore taken it for a point of
Terra Firma. The island of Regla had many others
towards the fouth.
On the 3d of Augufl the flcy being clear, a moun-
tain, certainly higher than the peak of TencrifF, en-
tirely covered with fnow, was fcen to the N. W. 7" N.
at more than 10 leagues diftancc. In the evening
by twilight, it was obfcrved to vomit torrents of thick
fmokc. The crater from whence thefe torrents ifliicd
was a little more eafterly than the fummit of the
mountuin ; it was thought to be a volcano. Near this
another was obfervcd, very high, whereon was not the
Icafl appearance of fnow ; it bore W. N. W. 8" W.
at the diftance of 1 5 leagues. Two others were after-
wards remarked, the bearing of the higheft of which
was W. S. W. 4"» S. 13 leagues ditlant ; the two
latter, although high, were lefs fo than the preceding
ones, and they were notvvithftanding entirely covere4
with fnow.
On Regla Island were found fome fmall huts, fca
wolves juli lkinncd,andagrcat number of birds' heads,
but not a finglc inhabitant. After two or three days
ilay, a canoe appeared at one of the neighbouring
* On the chart of Prince William's Sound (Cook's third voyage,
vol. iii.) ts a place that might be talcen for the groupe of iflands, of
which the ifland of Regla makes a part ; it is to the S. W. of Mon-
tagu liland, about lat. 59 min. 8 deg. long. 210 min. 30 deg. to
4odeg.E. of Greenwich (or iço min. 40 deg. to 50 deg. W. of
Paris). Cook pafled about 15 leagues to the weftward of thefe
iflands, Dixon as much to the eaft. Thefe iflands may not be high
enotigh to be feen at this diftance ; they may alfo be more wefterly
than is imngipcd. •< ^ 1 n/)'*
points.
■fr fj
JCiC iN'tÈafeôTIÎJè VOYAGÉ, ETC.
points. The Indians uttered fome words, but ivould
hot come to the frigates. The expedition of tho
Spaniards terminated at this island, which they quit-
tec! the 7th of Auguftj and anchored at St. Bias the
a7th of November. From Cape St. £lias to the
Island of Regia they took bearings with the greateft
minutenefs, of all the islands^ capes, and bays which
they recogniged ; but the winds and currents, very
frequent, and violent, in thefe feas, drove them off
the coail oftener than they would have wifhed, and
Was prejudicial to the accuracy of their eflimated
route; If, however, they publifh the chart which
they have conftruélcd according to their bearings,
their obfervations, in conjunélion with thofe of Gapt.
Cook, La Peroufe, and Capt. Dixon, will contribute
in a conliderable degree to bring the geography of that
part of the coaft of North America to perfeétion.
il
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JVYAGE
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IN THE YEARS
1785, 1786, 1787, and 1788.
CHAP. I. ^
OBJECT OF THE VOYAGE AND EQUIPMENT OP
THE TWO frigates; STAY IN BREST ROAD-
PASSAGE TO MADEIRA AND TENERIFFE ; STAY
IN THOSE ISLANDS EXCURSION TO THE
PEAK — ARRIVED AT TRINIDAD — TOUCHED
AT ST. CATHERINE'S, ON THE COAST OF
BRASIL. , <„
THE voyage of Ellis to Hudson's Bay, in 1747,
had by no means answered the expectation of
those who had advanced the fund for that enterprize.
Captain Bouvet, on the first of January, 1739f who
thought he had discovered land in 54" south lati-
tude, which it now appears probable was only a
mass of ice, had, by this mistake, retarded the pro-
gress of geography, and the ancient spirit of dis-
covery appeared almost extinguished. The makers of
systems, who delineate continents and islands in tiie
retirement of thecloset, concluded thatthepretended
CapeCircumcision was the northernmost point of the
southern continent, the existence of which appeared
to them necessary to the equilibrium of the glob? ♦.
The
Those who maintain the existence of a southern continent,
will deem the assertion of La Pérouse too b(»ld. Yet, without pre-
tending that Cape Circumcision belongs to a field of ice rather
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v/,,/^ I'lW.lJl/l,
.I.AHfnS(ul|.'
LA PÉROUSE's voyage
[1785.
The event of those two voyages might not unrea-
sonably discourage individuals, who, from a mere
spirit of curiosity, were sacrificing considerablesums
to an object which had long ceased to attract the
attention of the various maritime powers of Europe.
In 1764, England fitted out a new expedition,
the commandof which was entrusted to Commodore
Byron. The accounts of that voyage, and those of
Wallis, Carteret, and Cook, are generally known.
In the month of November, I766, M. de Bou-
gainville set sail from Nantes, with the Boudeuse
than to an island* ; without resolving the idle problem of a southern
continent, since it nnust be situated in a latitude by which it will be
for ever insulated from the rest of the globe, I shall observe, that
the first voyages of Cook round the south pole have fully deter-
mineci the question ; and that the arguments of Le Monnier, to
prove that Cook did not seek Cape C'ircumciaon in its true longi.
tude, are not of the least importance t* But while I am declaring
my opinion in favour of the existence of a southern continent, I do
not believe that continent necessary to support the equilibrium of the
globe. What, indeed, could be the effect of so small a protuberance,
on so enormous a mass, when the least variation in the specific gra-
vity of its internal component particles would be sufficient to couii.
terbalance any inequality, however great^ on its surface.
Though C'apiain Cook professes a hope that no more mil he said
of a southern continent ||, it will perhaps be of service, some ages
hence, to determine the progress which the ice may make towards
the equator ; and thus establish a proof of the ingenious theory
of BufFun, tliat the earth i» gradually losing it» heat. But it will
require many centuries to establish a probable system : for navi-
gators have met with ice in a higher or lower latitude, at the same
periods of different years. Those engaged in the whale fishery
who go annually to Spitsbergen, have, it is said,, once penetrated
within one degree of the pole ; and a passage to the north appears
to have been navigated by I^orcnzo Ferrer de Maldonado, oi"
whom I shall elsewhere speak ; but this has never since been met
with by our roost intrepid navigators, who have been constantly re-
pulsed by the ice. — Nufcufthe French Editor.
* Capf a\n Cook having passed consUlerably to thR southward of the land
discovered by Bouvet, Cape Circumcision cannot possibly belong to a southern
continent.
+ Ste the Memoirs of tlie A cademy of Sciences at Paris for the yea» 1 76(î,
p. fi65 J the year 1779, p. 12 ; Cook's Second Voyage, vol. iv. p. 109, and
ibllowiiig pages ; Cook's Third Voyage, vol, i, p. 435, and following pages,
(I Cook's Third Voyage, vol. iv. p. 120,
frigate,
1785.
nrea-
mere
îsums
et the
Lirope.
lition,
lodore
lose of
Lnown.
eBou-
udeuse
I soutlievn
it will be
erve, that
jUy deter-
onnler, to
rue longi-
dedaring
nent, I do
rium of the
tuberance,
^ecific gra-
it to couu.
•uill be Said
some ages
ikc towards
ous theory
But it will
for navl-
at the same
hale fishery
penetratei
)rth appears
dorado, ol'
e been met
instantly re-
ird of the land
g to a southern
the year liefi,
v.p. 109, and
»llowing pages,
frigate,
1785.] itOUND THE world; $t.
frigate, and a pink called l'Etoile. Steering nearly
the same course as the Enjçlish navigators, he dis-
covered several islands; and the account of his voy-
age, written with animation, has not a little contri-
buted to inspire the French with that taste foi drs-
covery which had just revived with so much energy
in England.
In 1 77 1 , M . de Kerguelen was sen t upon a voyage
towards the southern continent, the existence of
which no geographer at that time had even ven-
tured to dispute. In December, of the same year,
he descried an island : but the weather prevented
him from completing his discovery. Full of thô
ideas which he entertained in common with all men
of learning in Europe, he did not doubt but he had
discovered a cape of the southern continent. His
eagerness to announce this news, did not allow him
for an instant to delay his return ; and he was rccei ved
in France as a second Columbus. A ship of the
line and a frigate were immediately equipped to pro-
secute this important discov^ery. The choice of ves-
sels so unusual for such an expedition, would alone
be sufficient to demonstrate that enthusiasm had for
a time banished reflection. M. de Kerguelen had
orders to lay down achartof the supposed continent
he had discovered. The ill success of this second
voyage is well known. Even Captain Cook, ^hat first
of navigators, could not have succeeded in a similar
enterprize, with a ship of 64 guns, a frigate of 32,
and 700 sailors. He, perhaps, would have declined
tliecommandjor obtained amoresuitableequipnient.
At length M. de Kerguelen returned to France with
as little information as before, and discoveries were
no longer pursued. The king died in the course of
the last expedition, and the war of 1778 directed
every attention to far different objects. It was not,
however, forgotten that our enemies had the Dis-
covery and Resolution at sea; and that Captain Cook,
B 2 labouring
y LA pérouse's voyage [7855.
labouring to enlarge the sphere of our knowledge,
deserved to be considered as a friend by all the na-
tions of Europe*. .
The principal object of the war of 1778 was to
sefcure the tranquillity of the seas, and was accom-
plished in 1783. The same spirit of justice which
had recourse to arms to procure for the flags of those
nations which were weakest by sea an equal respect
with those of France and England, should, during
peace, be directed to whatever is most conducive to
the felicity of mankind. The sciences, by softening
our manners, have contributed more perhaps than
the laws themselves to the welfare of society.
The voyages of the various English Navigators,
by M'hich the sphere of science was enlarged, had
merited the just admiration of the whole world.
Europe had paid due veneration to the great talents
and exalted character of Captain Cook : but, in a
field so vast, succeeding ages will but furnish new
objects of science to develope. Strange coasts will
long remain to be explored ; plants and trees of new
kinds ; birds and tish of unknown species are yet to
be described; minerals to beanalized; volcanosto
beinvcstigated,and nations to be studied; on whom,
perhaps, we may bestow ne\C means of happiness.
For, to the inhabitants of the South Sea, a new spe-
cies of fruit, or a farinaceous plant, which we may
* Every consideration engages me here to recal to view a fact
equally, glorious to the French, and to him who became the object
of their urbanity, amid the horrors which the policy of war renders
necessary.
At the period of hostilities against England, in 1778, orders
were issued to all ships of war that should meet the Discovery and
Kesolution, commanded by Captain Cook, to let them puss without
interruption ; and so far from treating them as enemies, to furnish
them with every needful supply.
' Thus it is that a great nation manifests a religious respect for
useful discoveries, and for the improvement of science. — Frcnc/i
.Editor.
, introduce
quent x'i\
^eavin^T
race.""
J785.]
ROUND THÏ WORLD.
«
introduce among them, are benefits of inestimable
value*.
These reflections suggested the project of a voy-
age round the world; and learned men of every de-
* But can the advantages to be derived from a new farinaceous
plant, a new species of fruit, or even tlie introduction n{ domestic
animals stand in comparison with that mass of evils whicfe must re-
sult to these people from the introduction of European customs and
manners ?
Examining this problem in the different views of philosophy, of
policy, or even of religion, considering what they now enjoy ; and
well persuaded that nev/ desires can only sprmg from a knowledge
with which they are yet unacquainted ; we must, 1 think, most
ardently wish that they may long continue to enjoy that felicity,
that unalterable tranquillity which can only be founded on the sa-
tisfaction of the heart, the tender pleasures of sentiment, the unre-
strained enjoyment of sympathy, and an obedience to the laws of
nature and simplicity.
The following passages, extracted from Cook's third voyage,
come in support of my opinion :
" When the Adventure arrived first at Queen Charlotte's Sound,
in 1773, Mr. Bayly fixed upon this place for making his observa-
tions ; and he, and the people with him, planted several spots with
Jinglish garden-seeds. Not the least vestige of these now remained.
Though the New Zealanders are fond of this root (the pota-
toe), it Was evident that they had not taken the trouble to plant a
single one (much less any of the other articles which we had intro-
duced) ; and if it had not been for the difficulty of clearing ground
where potatoes had been once planted, there would not have been
any now remaining." Vol. i. p. 125.
" These two Chiefs became suitors to me for some goats and
hogs. I gave to Matahonah two goats, a male, and female with
kid; and to Tomatongeauooranne two pigs, a boar and a sow.
They made me a promise not to kill them ; though I must own I
put no great faith in this. The animals which Captain Furneaux
sent on shore here, and which soon after fell into tne hands of the
natives, I was now told were all dead. Vol. i. p. 13 1 .
" He said (i.e. Taweiharooa) that the Captain of her, during
his stay here, cohabited with a woman of the country ; and that she
had a son by him about the age of Kokoa ; who, though not born
then, seemed to be equally well acquainted with the story. We
were also informed by Taweiharooa, that this ship first introduced
the venereal disease among the New Zealanders. I wish that subse-
quent visitors from Europe may not have their share of guilt, in
4eaving so dreadful a remembrance of them amongst this unhappy
race." Vol. i. p. 141.
B3
script ion
.* V»
§ LA ^ÉROUSE*S VOYAGB' [WS.
Bcription Mere employed in the expedition. M. Da-
gelet, of the Academy of Sciences, and M Moniçe*,
both Professors of Mathtmatics in the Mih'tary
School, were appointed astronomers ; the former
embarked on board ttie Boussole, and the latter in
the Astrolabe.
To M de Lanianon, of the Academy of Turin, and
correspoiidiniç meinberof the Academy of Sciences,
"was allotted the department of Geology or natural
history of the earth and atmosphere; the Abbé Mon-
gès, Canonof St. Geneviève, E^homï the Journal de
jPA^.s7yi/c,analizingand examining minerals, andge-
nerally tosupeimtend thediftenni branches of na-
tural philosophy. M de la Maitinière, Doctor of
Physic, graduated at Montptlier, was appointed by
M. de Jussieu to the botanical departtnent. He was
assisted by M Collignon,<)neof the Kin»*'» gardeners
■who, on the recommendation of M. Thouin, was to
cultivate and preserve the plants and seeds we might
be able to bring back with us to Europe. Messrs.
Prévost, uncle and- nephew, were engaged to make
drawings of the various objects of natural history.
M. Dufresne, a great naturalist^ and very expert
in classing the différent productions of the earth,
>vas appointtd for that purpose by the Controller
General. And, lastly, JVJ. Duché de Van cy received
orders to paint the dresses, landscapes, and in gene-
ral whatever cannot, as it often .lappens, be other-
wise described. All the learned bodies of the king-
dom were upon tijis occasion earnestly desirous of
testifying their ?eal for the improvement ot the arts
and sciences. Tlie College ot Physicians and ihe
Academy of Sciences each addressed a memorial to
the Marshal de Castries, on the most important
objects for ou., attention during the expedition.
* The health of M. Monge became so had from Brest to Te-
ncriff'e, that he was obliged to return to I'^rance.
The
l7S5i] '. BOUND THE WORLD. #
The Abbé Tessier^ of the Academy of Sciences,
proposed amethod of preserving fresh waterfromcor-
ruption. M. du Fourni, Military Architect, furnished
observations on trees, and the method of taking the
level of the sea. M. le Dru addressed to us a me-
morial, directing our attention to the variations of
the compass in different latitudes and longitudes ;
and presented us with a dipping-needle constructed
by himself, the indications of which he requested us
to compare with those of the two dipping-needles,
sent us by the British Board of Longitude. I ought
also to express my gratitude to Sir Joseph Banks^
who having been informed that M. Monneron co«ld
not procure a dipping-needle in London, was pleased
to lend us those which had been used by the cele-
brated Captain Cook, which I received not without à
sentiment of religious respect for that great man.
M. Monneron, Captain in the corps of engineers,
who had attended me in my expedition to Hudson^s
Bay, embarked as principal engineer. His friend-
sliip for me, as well as his partiality for the sea,
induced him to solicit this appointment. He was
engaged to lay down bearings and draw plans. M.
Bernizet, geographical engineer, was his assistant
in this department.
In fine, M. de Fleurieu, an old naval Captain, sui-
perintendant of the ports and arsenals, himself drew
up the necessary charts for the voyage ; in addition
to which he furnished us with a complete volume of
notes and disquisitions of great learning, upon the
different navigators from the time of Columbus to
the present day. This public testimony of gratitude
is due to him for the information he lias commu-
nicated to me, and the friendship of which he has
given me such repeated proofs*.
The
* The arts and sciences will share most deeply in the regret
which all Europe must feel for the loss of our navigators. The
B 4 immense
«
LA PÉROUSE S VOYAGE
[1785.
The Marshal de Castries, Minister of Marine, who
had recommended me to the King for this com-
mand, had given strict orders at the different ports
that we should be supplied with every thing requi-
site to ensure the success of the voyage. Lieute-
nant-General d'Hector, who commanded the fleet
at Brest, entered into his views, and attended to
the particulars of my equipment with as much
zeal as if he himself was to have conducted the
expedition.
Being indulged with the choice ofall the of-
ficers, I appointed to the command of the Astro-
labe, M. de Langle, a Captain in the navy, who had
commanded the Astrée in my expedition to Hudson's
Bay, and had given, on that occasion, the strongest
proofs of talents and exalted character. A hundred
officers proposed themselves to M. de Langle and
myself for this expedition; and all whom we se-
lected were distinguished for their scientific accom-
plishments. On the Q6th of June my instructions
"were sent me; and on the first of July I set off for
Brest, where I arrived on the 4th, and found the
equipment of the two frigates in a very forward
state. The embarkation of different stores had been
suspended, because it was necessary for me to choose
between articles of exchange with the savages, and
provisions with which I would gladly have stock-
ed myself for several years. I gave the preference
to articles for barter, thinking they might procure
us fresh provisions ; when those on board would
be nearly spoiled by keeping. We had also on
immense collection made by their learned coadjutors, unda part of
their notes have perished withihem. This voyage, highly interest-
ing in its present state, would have presented a moït valuable whole,
had it not been for this tragical event. If any hope be still per-
mitted, its rays are very feeble, and every day destroys the small
remains we arc yet willing to cherish.
•' ""' "' ■•"■ ' . . , : ' board
ms,]
nOUND THE WOULTD*
^
n we se-
board the frame of a decked bo t*, of about SI tons
burthen, two Biscay shallopsf, a sp ire main-mast,
a rudder cheeky and a capstan. In shorty my ship
contained an incredible quantity of stores M. de
Clonard, my first Lieutenant, had stowed them with
that zeal and intelligence of wliich he has afforded
such frequent proofs. The Astrolabe had taken on
board exactly similar articles. We were in the road
on the 11th; but our vessels were so encumbered
that it was impossible to heave at the capstan. We
took our departure, however, in a fine season, and
were in hopes of reachinjç Madeira without meeting
with bad weather. M. d'Hector ordered us to take
in harbour moorings, that we might have nothing
to do, but slip our cables when the wind should
permit us to sail.
On the 12th we were reviewed. The same day,
the astronomical clocks by which when in harbour
we were to verify the daily rate of the time-keepers,
were put on board. These had been accurately ob-
served for afortnight. Messrs. Dagelet, and Monge;
with the other men of science and the artists had
reached Brest before me : Messrs. de Langle and
d'Escures had observed the rate of the time-keepers
before the arrival of the two astronomers; but un-
fortunately the astronomical clock by which they
were regulated, was found sp bad, that it was ne-
cessary to begin the whole process anew.
In the evening of the 13th; M. Dagelet sent me
the following note ; . ^ .
*' Upon our arrival at Brest we found an astro-
nomical station established in the garden belonging
to the Commissioner's house^ where Messrs. de Langle
* A very strong kind of flat-bottomed vessel, used in Holland
and Flanders, well calculated lor inland navigation. — French Editor»
t Barca longa, long boats, very narrow at the extremities, and fit
for navigating a swelling sea, — French Editor,.
an4
m
LA pérouse's voyage
[1785.
and d'Esciires were engaged in making observations,
in order to ascertain the rate of the time-keepers.
But as the instruments of the Academy of Brest,
and particularly the astronomical clocks they had
used, were in the very worst state, they found it ne-
cessary to refer every comparison of the time-keep-
ers to No. 5jl5*, which was in the observatory.
When our instruments were set up on shore, I de-
termined the rate of my clock by the altitude of
the sun and stars ; every day comparing the time-
keepersj No. 18 and 19, by means of signals from oq
board, and of which I drew up the following table ;"
No. 18
«
No. 19.
; , tf'-- ' ' !■■ ■^s•^' '.-
LOSS OF TIME,
LOSS OF TIME,
according to mean
According to meaa
iOays of the Month.
Time at Paris.
Time at Paris.
28th June
3&
4«"
8
27'
51" 0
30 ib.
S7
7
1
27
47 7
1st July
37
19
0
27
45 0
2 ib.
37
31
0
27
44 2
3 ib.
37
39
5
'47
45 4
4ib.
37
51
8
27
44 0
' Sib.
38
5
0
27
42 0
6ib.
0
0
0
27
42 1
7ib.
38
36
7
ditto
', 8ib.
38
49
3
ditto
5ib. ,,
39
3
0
27
48 8
. 10 ib.
39
13
6
27
42 5
. 11 ib.
39
27
0
stopped
12 ib.
0
0
0
0
36 6
13 ib.
0
0
0
0
36 4
The westerly winds detained us in the road 'till
the first of August ; during which time we had fogs
* All the time-pieces on board the two frigates were invented
' and constructed by Ferdinand Berthoud, who has distinguished
them by numbers.— jR-encii Editor,
t :'- and
1785.] ROUND THE WORLD, ■ 11
and rain ; and though 1 was fearful lest the health of
the crews should suffer from the humidity of the
weather ; yet, in \9 days, we only put one man on
shore, who was in a fever.
It set sail from Brest -road on the first of August,
Nothing interesting occurred on my passage to Ma-
deira, where we anchored on the 13th. The wind
had heen constantly fair, a circumstance exceed-
ingly favourable to our vessels, which, from having
too muchweight forwards, steered very badly. Dur-
ing the fine nights of this passage, M. de Lamanoa.
noticed those luminous particies in the salt water,
which proceed, in my opinion, from the decomposi-
tion of marine substances. Were this light produ-
ced by insects, as many natural philosophers assure
us, they would not be spread in such profusion
from the pole to the equator, and would be most
abuitdanl in particular climates*.
No sooner had we cast anchor at Madeira than Mr*
Johhston,anËnglish n)erchant,sent on board my ship
a boat-load of fruit. Several letters of recommenda-
* Ace rding to the result of the experiments presented by Ri-
gaud, in 1768, to the Academy of Sciences at Paris, we cannot
doubt the existence of polypi, or luminous anima. s in sea-water.
I cannot discover on what \.-a ^'érouse can rest an assertion combat-
ted by Godeheu, who observed near the Maldives and on the Mala-
bar coast, places where the sea is more luminous than in the parts
of which our navigator speaks, and that the water was covered
with small luminous anitua s, discharging an oily liquor which
swam upon the surface and emitted a phosphoric light when agi-
tated
I therefore blievc the existence of these animalculœ, supported
by the observations of Noliet, Roy, Vianella, Grisellini, &c. 1
amalso ofopm!0.>, that the phosphoric oil of certain fish arriving
at the surface of the water, prt/duces, in part, the luminous appear-
ances obï'trved throughout the surlaceof the ocean.
In support of my opinion 1 shall cite the effect of the oil of
the borita, which becomes luminous when agitated. 1 may also
refer to the observations if Forster upon the phosphoric light of
sea-water, at the end of Cook's second voyage ; and those ol La-
lande. Journal des Savans 1777. — French Editor.
lion
12
lA pérouse's voyage
[1785.
tion from London had previously reached him, which
greatly excited my astonishment, as I was entirely
ignorant of the persons by whom they were written.
A kinder reception than Mr. Johnston gave us, we
could not expect from our own friends and relations.
Having paid our visit to the governor, we went to
dine with this gentleman, and the next day break-
fasted at the delightful seat of Mr. Murray, the Eng-
lish Consul, from whence we returned to the town,
and dined with M. Moutcro, who was Chargé des
Affaires of the French Consul. During the whole
of that day, we enjoyed every pleasure the most
select company or the most marked disposition
to oblige, could afford, and were at the same time
filled with admiration by Mr. Murray's beautiful
villa. From the prospects presented by this charm-
ing situation, our attention could only have been di-
verted by the consul'shandsome nieces who soon con-
vinced us no kind of beauty was wanting to this en-
chanting spot. Had not unavoidable circumstances
prevented, it would have afforded us great pleasure
to have passed some days at Madeira, where we had
met with so polite a reception. But the object of our
going on shore could not then be accomplished.
The English having raised the wine of this island to
an exorbitant price, we could procure none for less
than 13 or 14 hundred livres per ton, though it was
sold for 6 hundred livres atTeneriffe. I tbereforeor-
dered every thing to be prepared for our departure
nex.t day, which was the l6th of August. The sea-
breeze did not subside till six in the evening, when we
immediately got under sail. 1 also received from Mr.
Johnston a great quantity of fruits of various kinds^
a hundred bottles of Malmsey, half a hogshead of
dry wine, some rum, and some preserved lemons.
The most flattering civilities from this gentleman,
distinguished every moment of my stay at Madeira.
We reached Tcneriffe after a passage of only thjec
days,
1785.]
ROUND THE WOltLD^
19.
(lays, and anchored there on the 19th, at three in
the afternoon. On the 18th, in the morning, I made
Salvage island, the eastern part of which I ranged
at the distance of half a league. It is very healthy ;
and though I had no occasion for sounding, I am
persuaded there are a hundred fathoms water within
a cable's lengtlt of the shore. There is not a single
tree on this island which is not entirely parched
up, and appears to be formed of strata of lava, and .
other volcanic matter. We took several bearings
to determine its direction.
The observations of Messrs. Fleurieu, Verdun and
fiorda, leavenothingtobe accomplished with regard
to the islands of Madeira, Salvage and TenerifFe.
The sole object therefore of ours was to verify our
instruments, and the rate of our time-keepers, which
had been determined by M. Dagelet at Brest, with so
much accuracy, that we could rely upon them for
the longitude during several days. Our landing at
Madeira was very convenient for ascertaining what
degree of exactitude we might expect from them.
The longitude we had observed in sight of land, and
referred to that of the town of Funchal, did not dif-
fer more than three minutes of a degree from that
determined by M. Borda. The short stay we made
in this island, did not allow us to erect an observa-
tory. Messrs Dagelet, d'Escures, and Boutin, only
made some sketches from the bearings taken when at
anchor, which I have not laid down, as they may be
found in many printed voyages. We were employed
on the 1 8th ofAugust in taking observationsoff Sal-
vage island ; and 1 think its longitude may be fixed
in 18" 13' west, and its latitude in 50° 8' 15" north.
Upon my first arrival atTenerifle, I employed my-
self in establishins: an observatory on shore. Our in-
struments were set up there the Qid of August, and
we ascertained the rate of our astronomical clocks
by correspondent altitudes of the sun or stars, in or-
der,
I'll
1»^
LA PÉR0U5E*S VOYAOfî
[178^.
dcr, as soon as possible, to vc ity the motion of the
time- keepers belonging to the two tVigitcs. The
result of our observations, provided that the error of
No. 19 had only been 18" too slow, since the
13thofJuly,thelastdayc)f our observations at Brest;
that our watches, No. 9 and No. ^5, had also been
too slow ; the former 1' 0" 7, ami the latter no more
than 28": thus in the space of three-and forty days,
the greatest error was but a quarter of a decree of
longitude. After some days oï uninterrupted obser-
vations and comparisons, we established the daily
motion of these clocks. M. Dagelet found that
No. 19 gained about 2', 5b in ^4 hours; No. 29
about 3" 6; and No 2.5 about O" 8. It is upon these
principles this astronomer has drawn up the table of
their apparent motions, pay ingdue regard to the cor-
rections required by the variations which different
temperaturesproduce, according to thedegrees of the
thermometer and of the arches of tiie balance-wheel.
M. Dagelet had his doubts on the mode of construct-
ing the table of variation for N o. 1 9, according to the
few data furnished by the experi ments made at Paris.
He thought it would be very advantageous for those
who make use of time-keepers, that the number of
experiments should be augmented, and fewer terms
left uncalculated, in the intermediate steps which lie
lias been obliged to pursue, in order to obtain these
data ; especially where the arches of the balance
would enter into this species of correction, which
renders a table by double entry necessary, and leaves
a doubt respectingthe manner in which theordinates
of the curve should vary. He made experiments on
the simple pendulum on the 27th, 28th, and 29th, of
August, and observed the number of oscillations in
a given time, in order to determine the force with
■which bodies gravitate in different latitudes. Seve-
ral observations of latitude and longitude were made
at Santa-Cruz, in Teneriffe, which, we think, may
ROUND THF. WORLD,
15
«7'
1785.]
be fixed at 18" 36' 30" west longitiule, and 2^"
30" north latitude. At len<;th we concluded our
labours by experiments on the dipping-needle. But
we found little agreement in the results, and only
mention them to prove how far this instrument still
remains from the degree of perfection necessary to
procure it the confidence of astronomers. We pre-
sume, however, that the quantity of iron with
which the soil of Tenerifte is impregnated has great-
ly contributed to the extraordinary variations we
remarked.
On the 30th of August I set sail with the wind
blowing fresh from north -north-east. We had
taken on board each ship sixty pipes of wine : and
were obliged to unstow half our liold, in order to get
at the empty casks destined to contain it. This
took up ten days ; a delay which was, in fact, oc-
casioned by the dilatory conduct of those who sup-
plied us with this wine from Orotava, a small town
on the other side of the island.
I have already given an account of the manner in
which the astronomers employed their time. Our na-
turalists also wished to improve theirs while they re-
mained in the road of Santa-Cruz ; and therefore
set off for the Peak with several oliicers of both ships.
M. de la Martinière collected herbs in his way, and
found many curious plants. M.de Lamanon measur-
ed the height of the Peak with his barometer, which
at the summit of the mountain fell to IS inches, 4
lines ~ : while by an observation made at Santa-
Cruz, at the same moment, it was at 28 inches 3
lines. The thermometer which at Santa-Cruz indi-
cated 24 degrees and a half, was, at the top of the
Peak, stationary at 9'. I leave every one at li-
berty to calc-ulate the height ; for this method is so
loose, that 1 prefer giving the data without the re-
sults*. M. Monneron, Captain of the corps of
* Those who would wish to make the calculations ^^Ul find the
data
16
LA PEROUSES VOrAGE
[1785.
Engineers, also made an excursion to the Peak, in
order to take its level as far as the sea, which was
the only mode of measuring this mountain that
had not yet been attempted. Local diffjculties,
if not absolutely insurmountable, were unable to
stop him, as he was extremely conversant in these
pursuits. He found that the natural obstacles were
much less than his imagination had suggested. For,
in one day he had completed every thing in which
there was any difficulty. He had reached a kind of
plain, very elevated, but easy of access, and in pros-
pect beheld with the greatest joy the termination of
fiis labours^ when he experienced, on the part of his
guides, difficulties which it was impossible to van-
quish. Their mules had not drunk for three days ;
and neither entreaties nor money could induce their
drivers to continue their stay. Thus when he con-
sidered his labour almost finished, Avas M. Monneron
obliged to leave imperfect a work \vhich had cost
him incredible pains, and considerable expence;
for he had been obliged to hire seven mules and
eight men to carry his baggage, and assist him in
his operations In order, however, not entirely to
lose the fruit of his labour, he determined the prin-
cipal points, and one day more would now be suf-
ficient to complete the level, and afford a conclusion
more satisfactory than any hitherto produced by all
the different travellers.*
The
data here omitted in every work of experimental philosophy. But
if they wish to calculate with some degree of accuracy in this me-
thod of measuring elevations, at best very liable to error, they
should not omit such corrections as relate to the temperature of the
air. Ihe difference of the logarithms of the heights of the baro-
meter in lines gives the height in toises at If) degrees and a quarter
OÏ the mercurial thermometer, on which the point of boiling wa-
ter is 80 ('egrees. The two hundred and fifteenth part should be
substracted for every degree of cold. See De Luc, Enquiries on
the Modification of the A tmosphere. --FrcncA EdUvr,
* The work of Monneron here announced has not reached our
hands.
1785.]
Slight hsL\
ii
1785.] HOUND THE WORLD* JT
The Marquis Branciforte, Governor-General of all
the Canary islands^ and Field Marshal, never ceased
to shew us the greatest marks of friendship during
our stay.
We were unable to depart before three o'clock
in the afternoon of the bOth of August, and were
still more encumbered with stores than at our depar-
tore from Brest. But these were c^'minishing every
day, and we had nothing but woou and water to pro^
cure 'till our arrival at the Islands of the South
Sea. With these two articles I intended to provide
myself at Trinidad ; for I determined not to touch
at the Cape de Verd Islands, which at this season
are very insalubrious, and the health of the crews
was of the first importance. To preserve this I gave
orders to fumigate between-decks, and the ham-
mocs to be taken down every day from eight o'clock
in the morning 'till sun^set. But that every one
might have sufiicient time for sleep, the crew was
divided into three watches^ so that eight hoursofrest
succeeded to four of labour. Having no more hands
hands. Tliere is reason to believe he had left his operations in such
a state as to be prosecuted by any other traveller. I imagine he
made use of the water-level, notwithstanding the inconvenience of
this instrument on very steep declivities. If his operations had
been finished, he would have decided the dispute between those
who, measuring the Peak each his own way, have assigned it \ery
diffèrent heights.
However defective, however tedious and difficult this mode of
measuring heights may be, these inconveniences vanish before
one much in the habit of such employments. It is evident it
cannot require more than a thousand stations; and supposing,
though almost impossible, an enor of three lines in each sta-
tion, that these errors should not be mutually corrected, and that
they should be always />/m5, or always minus, a thing still less pos-
sible ; there would at last be an error of only three thousand
Knes, or 90 feet 10 inches French. This difference, though barely
possible, is nothing when compared with that of the various tra-
vellers. For Heberdeen ascribes to the Peak a height of 2,409
toises or fathoms; Feuillée (Memoirs of the Academy of Sciences
for the year 1746, p. 140) 2,215. Bouguer 2,100, and Verdun,
Borda, and Pingre, 1,904 French Editor,
Vol. I. C on
LA pérouse's voyage [\7H5i
on board than were inrlispensahly neces'^ary, this ar-
rangement could only takepiace in calm weather;
and I have heen under the necessity of reverting to
the ancient custom when sailuiir in stormy seas.
Nothing renrarkahle occurred during our passage as
far as the line. The trade- wind» left us in 1 4degrees
N lat and hiew constantly hetween W, and S.W.
'till ue reached the line, and obliged nie to run
down the coast of Africa, m hich I did at the dis-,
tance of 60 leagues z . s i ,
We crossed the line on the §pth of Sfptemher, in
18" of W. longitude. I could have \u4ied, as my
instructions were, to have passed it more to the west*
ward : but fortunatelv the wind drove us always to
the eastward, otherwise it would have been im-
possible to have made Trinidad, the wind being S.E.
at the line, and coivtinuing îhere 'tiM we reached
20' 25' N. latitude: so that I always eat close to
the wind, and was unable to get int.> i titudeof
Trinidad nearer than about 25 leagues I,» ihe cast of
that island. Had I made Pennedo de S. Pedro*, I
should have found great dithcuUy in doubling the
eastern point of Brasil. I passed, according to my
reckoning, over the shoals, on which the ship Le
Prince thought she had touched in 1747. We had
no indication of land, except some birds called fri-
gates, which followed us in pretty large flights from
the 8th degree of N. to ' he 3d degree of S. latitude.
During all that time our ships were surrounded by
tunnies, of which we took but few, they being so
large and heavy, that all ourfishing lines broke with
their weight. Each of those we caught weighed at
least sixty pounds. .^
The dread which some navigators entertain ofbe-
îng,atthis season, becalmed underthe line, is found-
* To touch at this ÎBland wa» no part of my instructions, it be-
ing only suggested as advantageous, if it should not lie out of my
track.
, . j '''"'. ed
l7SSiJ
ed in err
only one
dant as i
Thefe;
into the I
Clerical.
drives shi
I been b<
should ha
.;. 1
1785: J HOUNP THE WORLD. )9
ed in erFor. We were not a day without wind, and
only once had rain ; when, indeed, it was so abua*
dant as to fill 25 casks.
The fear of being driven too much to the eastward
into the bottom of the gulf of Guinea is equally chi«
merical. The S. E. wind is soon met with, and even*
drives ships too rapidly to the westward ; so that had
I been better acquainted with this navigation^ t
ghouM have steered away more large with the S. W*.
wind which constantly prevailed to the N. of the
line, and I should then nave crossed it in the lati-
tude of 10 degrees. This circumstance would have
permitted me to run, with a free wind, on the pa*
rallel of Trinadad. A few days after our departure
from Teneriflè, we left those serene skies only found
in the temperate zones : instead of which, a dull
whiteness, between fog and cloud, always prevailed»
The horizon was contracted within lest than three
leagues ; but after sun-set the vapour was dissi-
pated, and the nights were constantly tine.
On the 1 1th of October we took many obser*
vations of distances between the sun and moon, in
order to ascertain the longitude, and prove the rate
of our time-keepers. By the mean result of ten
observations taken with quadrants and sextants,
we found our longitude 25° ii' VV. Tliat indicated
by the time-keeper. No. 19, at three in the after-
noon, was 85" 47'. We afterwards repeated the
lame sort of observations. r
On the li2th, about four o'clock in the after^
noon, the mean of ourobservationsgavt* aô" ai', and
at the same moment the time-keeper. No. 19, gave
£6° 53' for the longitude of the ship. On compari*
ion, it appears that the longitude indicated by the
time-keeper. No. 19, is I'i minutes more to the
W. than that obtained by observation. By these
operations we have fixed the longitude of the islands
of Martin- Vas and Trinidad. We have also ascer-
C2 tainëd
sd
LÀ PéRÔrSE^S VOYAdE
[im*
tained tlieîr latiturles with great exactnesâ, not only
by takings the su^^s meridian altitude witlvpreciv
sion. hut also a jrreat number of altitudes near the
meridian, and reducing them al! to tlie true time
from noon, inferred from corresponding altitudesr
Tlie greatest error arising from this method cannot
exceed twenty seconds.
On tiie l6'tb of October, at ten in the morning,
we descried the islands <»f Martin- Vas five lea&:ues
to the N.W. They ought to have been seen in
the uest, hut the currents Ijad driven us 13 miles
to thestiuthward in the night. The winds unfortu-
nately having blown, till then, constantly from the
S. E. ohii<»ed me to make several boards, in order to
r.ear those islands, which I passed at about the dis-
tance of a league and a baif. Having accurately de-
termined their situation, and taken several bearings
to enable me to delineate relative positions on the
chart, I hauled close to the wind, on the starboard
tack, steering for the island of Trinidad, distant
from Martin- Vas about nine leagues W. by S.
These islantlsof Martin-Vas are,in fact, mere rocks;
the largest of which may perhaps be a quarter of a
league in circumference : there are ihree little
islands, separated fromeach other by small intervals,
which, seen from a distance, appear like five heads.
At sun-set I made the island of Trinidad, bearing
W. 8" N. . The wind being constantly at N.N.W.
I passed the night in standing off and on, keeping
to the E.S. E. of tlie inland. When day appeared!
continued on the land tack, hoping to find smoother
water, under shelter of the island. At ten in the
morning I was but two leagues and a half from
the S. E. point, which bore N.N.W. ; and I per-
ceived, at the extremity of the creek formed by that
point, a Portuguese flag hoisted in the middle ofa|
small fort, surrounded by five or six wooden houses.
The sight of this flag excited my curiosity; and Idf-I
♦ ' tenniud
J785.J
terminée
gence c<
English.
J785.] HOUND THE WOULD. 21
termined tosenda boat on sliore to procure intelii^
gence concerning its cession and evacuation hy the
English. For I already began to perceive, that at the
island of Trinidad I could procure neither the wood
nor water wanted A few treesonly could bepi-rceived
onthesummitofthemountains The sea broke every
where so violently, that it could not be supposed a
boat could easily land. I therefore resolved to beat
up with the wind on the beam all day, in order to
be at day -break sutliciently to windward to gain the
anchorage, or, at least, to send my boat on shore. At
niglit 1 hailed the Astrolabe to apprize her of my
imended manœuvre; and added, tiiat we should ob-
serve no order in tacking, as, at sun-rise, the creek
of the Portuguese establishment was to be our
rendezvous. 1 instructed M. de L^ngle, that
whichever of our ships should be nearest thesiiore,
should send a boat to ascertain the resources this
port might offer. The next morning, October 18th,
the Astrotabe being but half a league from shore»
sent off her long-boat under the command of M. de
Vaujuas the lieutenant, accompanied by M, de la
Martinière and Father Receveur, an indefatigable
naturalist. They went quite up the creek, between
two rocks. But the surf was so great, that the boat
and her crew would infallibly have been lost, but for
the prompt assistance of the Portuguese, who hauled
the boat upon the beach to shelter it from the fury
of the sea. Every thing was saved excepting a small
anchor. At that station M. de Vaujuas counted
about two hundred men, of whom I.^ only were in
uniform, the rest in their shirts. The governor of
this establishment, which being quite uncultivated,
is not worthy the name of a colony, told him the
governor of Rio Janeiro had, about a year before,
caused possession to be taken of the island of Tri-
nidad. He either did not or pretended not to know,
that it had been previously in possession of the Eng-
Cs lish;
f M
irè LA ï>É rouse's vôr AGS tl785i
liâh ; hut we cannot depend much on any thing
hientioned to M. de Vaujuas in this conversation.
The governor, who thought himself under the necesi
sity of disguising the truth on every subject, pre-
tended that his garrison consisted of 40() men, and
that his fort was defended by £0 pieces of cannon;
though we are certain there was not a single battery
in the establishment. This officer so much dreaded
our discovering the miserable state of his govern-
ment, that he would never permit M. de la Marti-
nière and father Receveur to leave the beach in
search of plants. After having manifested to M.
de Vaujuas every external mark of politeness and
good- will, he pressed him to return on board, as-
suring him the island produced nothing; that sup-
plies of provisions were sent every six months from
Hio-Janeiro ; that he bad scarcely a sufficiency of
wood and water for the garrison: and even these
he was obliged to procure at a great distance on
the mountains. 11 is detachment, however, assisted
us in launching our long-boat.
At day-break 1 sent a boat on shore under the
command of lieutenant Boutin, accompanied by
Messrs. de Lamanon and Monneron ; but I forbad
M. Boutin to land, if the Astrolabe*5 boat had ar<
rived before him : in which case he was to sound the
road, and make as accurate a survey as possible in so
short a time. Accordingly M. Boutin did not ap-
proach within musket-shot of the shore; and in all
his soundings he met with arocky bottom, mixed with
a small portion of sand. M. Monneron took a draw-
ing of the fort with as much exactness as if he had
been on the beach ; and M. de Lamanon was near
enough to perceive that the rocks were nothing but
basaltes^j or substances that had been in a state of
fusion, the remains of some extinguished volcanos.
• A stone of a dose texture and brilliant fracture, strikes fire
-with a fluit, and may be used as a touch -stone.
' This
ma,)
This op
brough
canic, !
found n
accord!
tin, it \
Trini(|a(
determi
Catharii
vhere tj
use' .or
admiral.
wants. ]
Catharin
178^.1
AOUNP tHE WQULP.
m
This opinion was confirmed by father Receveur, who
brought on board a ti;reat number of stones^ all voU
canic, as well as some of the sand, which was only
found mixed » ith fragments of shells and coral. As,
accordinjç to the report of M. Vaujuas, and M. Bou-
tin, it was evident we could not, at the island of
Trinidad, get either the wood or water we wanted, I
determined immediately to steer for the island of St.
Catharine on the coast of Brasil. This was the place
where the French ships, bound for the Sputh-sea,
use'' /ormerly to touch ; and at which premier and
admiral Anson found an abundant supply forall their
wants. In order not to lose a single day, I gave St.
Catharine's the preference to Rio-Janeiro, where the
necessary formalities would haveconsumed too much
time. But, in shaping my course for St Catharine's,
I wished to be assured of the existence of the island
of Ascension, which M. Dapr^s has placed 100
leagues W. of Trinidad, and only 15 miles more
to the southward. According to Xh-e Journal of M.
Ponceldela Haye, who commanded the Renommée,
I was certain several navigators, and among others
Frézier, a very well informed man, thought they had
landed on Ascension island, when ^ in reality, they had
only been on thatof Trinidad. Notwithstanding the
^authority of M. Poncel de la Haye, I conceived this
point of geography required fresh illustration. The
two days we passed to the southward of Trinidad,
enabled us to take bearings from which M. Ber-
nizet delineated the plan of the south-side of the
island. It differs but little from that of Doctor
Halley, which had been sent me by M. Fleurieu.
The view painted by M. Duché de Vancy is so
■remarkably accurate, that it will alone prevent any
«avieators that may land on the south side of Tri-
nidad from falling into an error. That island
presents to the eye nothing but a rock almost naked
and barren; where no verdure, up shrubs, are
C 4 seen
24
LA PtR0USE*8 VOTAÔE
ti784r.
iseeti but fn tlie narrow defiles of the mountains. It
is in one of these val lies to the S. E. of the island
Hvhich is only about 300 toises broad, that the Por>
tuguese have formed their establishment.
Nature had never designed this rock to be inha<
bited, for it can furnish neither men nor animals
with subsistence. But the Portuguese are fearful
lest some European nation may avail themselves of
its vicinity to establish a smuggling trade with
Brazil : and to this motive alone we must ascribe
the eagerness they have discovered to seize upon
an island, which^ in every other point of view, must
be a mere burthen.
■'■ Latitude of the largest of the Martin- Vas isles,
20* 30' 35" south.
Longitude, by lunar observations, 80* 30' west.
Latitude of the south-east point of the island of
Trinidad, 20" 31' south.
Longitude, by lunar observations, 30* 57' west
On the 1 8th of October, at noon, I stood to the
westward for the island of Ascension till the nightof
the 24th, when I abandoned the search. I had then
run 1 15 leagues west ; and the M'eather was suffi-
ciently clear to see 10 leagues a-head. Thus, I may
aver, that having directed my course on the parallel
20° 32' with a view north and south of, at least,
twenty, and having laid-to every night, after the
first 60 leagues, when I had run the distance per-
ceived at sun-set — I say, I may aver that the island
of Ascension exists not from the meridian of Tri-
nidad to about seven degrees west longitude, be-
tween the latitudes of 20° 10', and 20"* 50', my view
having embraced the whole of that space.*
On
'' i
• La Pé rouse may be right in advancing that navigators have er-
roneously itnaghied they landed on Ascension Island, while, in
ftict, they touched at that of Trinadad. Not attending to the re-
semblance which runs through the former description* of theK
two
• Il
have n
accoun
the Be
ters b)
178.5.3 . ROUND THE WORLD. - S$
On the 25th of October we experienced a most vio-
lent storm. At eight in the evening we were sur*
rounded by an horizon of fire; while lightning burst
from every part of the heavens. A cone • of lire ap-
peared on thepointof the conductor: a phenomenon
which was not confined to our ship : for the Astro-
labe, not being furnished with a conductor, had also
the
two islands, proves that they have committed this error. For, froA
these charts, they might indifferently suppose they were on the one
or the other, their latitude being nearly the same, and their longi-
tude very imperfectly ascertained. But these proofs are not suffi-
cient for the enlightened geographer ; whereas the authentic testi-
mony of Daprès, in his Jyeptune Orientait page 10, and the minute
and very different plans which Dalrymple has given of these two
islands and appearance, prove, beyond doubt, they are not the
same.
Had La Pé rouse felt greater confidence in the materials furnished
him, he might on this subject have made a very easy calculation.—
TheW. long, of the north coast of Trinidad, was there fixed at 32*
15', and he himself found that of the S. £. point no more than
30» 57'.
According to the meridian of Rio-Janeiro, which is fixed at
45° 5', the coast of America, under this parallel, may be calcu-
lated at 43<* 30'. Daprès fixes the longitude of Ascension Islanxlat
38°, because he believes it to be 120 leagues from the coast. 1
have reason to think it still nearer. Hence, it is evident. La Pé-
rouse has not pushed his researches far enough, and that having
sailed about seven degrees upon this parallel, afler his departure
from Trinidad, he abandoned his object at the very moment of its
attainment.
To the data of these two authors, so valuable on account of therr
exactness, whom I have just cited, I shall add, that since writing
this note I have accidentally met with a navigator (Lépine, a half-
pay lieutenant) who has touched at both these islands, and who,
not being provided with instruments, to determine their longitude
with precision, has only fixed their latitude.
That of Trinidad at 20» 22'
That of Ascension at 20° 30'
He thinks the latter 120 leagues from the coast of Brazil.
* I am not in the least astonished that a ball of fire should also
have rested on the mast-head of the Astrolabe, knowing from the
accounts of La Férouse, that this ship was never out of hail of
the Boussole. Every one knows that when the electric fluid en-
ters by a point, it appears as a spart, but in flying off from one
. Jia»
LA I>£llOUSE*S VOrAOE
[1785.
•the Same appearance on her mast-head. From that
liay the weather was constantly foul till our arrival
^t St. Catharine's; and we were enveloped in a
fog thicker than those on the coast of Brittany in
' the
bas the appearance of a luminous cone. The earth is the grand
rrservnir of electric matter, and water is its best conductor. It
api^ears then that when a low cloud, negatively electrified, passes
^ve* u vessel, the masts and yards serve as conductors, and we see
conic 6re from nil the extremities directed towards the cloud.
^ It is evident that h vessel furnished with a conductor, must have
.at its point a cone of a much more beautiful appearance, on ac-
count of its chain, wlii( h has a diiect communication with the sea ;
.while without that instrument it only communicates the fluid, by
means of tarred wood, which is a very bad conductor.
On the same principle we may i-ometimes observe electric fire on
the surface of the sea, of whicn the following experiments are a
convincing proof, and may be depended on, as 1 have frequently
.performed tiem in my closet.
' Electrify a quantity of water in a vase of glass or metal ; but,
,in the latter case, place it upon an insulated stool. Then, in the
dark, present your finger to the surface of the water, not close
enough to draw sparks, but so as to make the water rise, when a
luminous cone will arise in the direction of your finger.
In this experiment the finger produces the effect of a cloud. But
it will be said, perhaps, that the sea does not, like the bason, con-
tain a superabundant quantity of electric matter. Should this
■argument leave any doubt, the following experiment may be made :
T?.ke a metal bason filled with water ; let this bason communi-
cate with the earth, by means of a chain or any otiier conductor;
electrify strongly the outside of the Leydcn vial, by which the in-
side will be electrified negatively : place this vial upou an insulated
stool, that you may be able to take hold of it by the outside with-
out discharging it. Then present the knob of the bottle at a
certain distance from the surface of the water, as you did your
. finger in the former experiment, and you will produce the same effect.
If in the first experiment, instead of your finger you make use
of the knob of the vial electrified minuSj you will produce a
stronger eiTect, as the electric fluid will make a greater effort to
escape from the water when electrified plus into the vial, which is
electrified minus.
, This principle once laid down and demonstrated, will deve-
lope the theory of electric vapours producing explosion, which are
much more frequent than h generally imagined. But this digres-
.sion, which has no connection with the subject, would lead me too
far.— JFrtwcA Editor,
■ the
the
^
%S»k
1785.1
the midst of \
Knvenibcr, b
therontineot
•fooiyMitd.
then bore nc
iMtj and the
- Though ou
^yn, wc had i
èfciitiiate, thi
en the health
•f excellent q
<ionthatexp(
did our utriio
mcouragrd t
tUl ten, whec
iiiiii
îi'
91SCRIPTI0
• TIONS A»
D£PARTr:V
AT lA CO
npHE isla
lioadth fron
leagues in th
the continent
Od the point
çityofNossa
comroahdery
nuqS/xt ino
vko^^Sfh ; dtïd '
^^ifT'iïng to F
<heyear 171^
who escaped
1785.]
ROUND THl WORLD.'
tt
tbf midst of winter. We cast tnchnr on tke ScH of
Koveniber, between the ialaod of St Catharine and
therontineot, in seven fathoms water, with a bottom
•f oosy sattd. The middle of tlie island of AlvarediO
then bore north-east, Fleming's lalahd south by
Aut, and the island of Gal north. .<,
" Though our voyage had now continued ninety-si»
days, we had not one man on board sick, Thechang«
èfcliiiiate, the rains and fogs, had produced no eff'eci
on the health of the crews. But our provisions w^r«
•f excellent quality ; for I had neglected no precau^
tion that experience 04 prudence coîaUÎ suggest. Wd
did our utmost to ke^.p up \\\t\< cheerfulness, and
encouraged them to ddiice ev^r y ni^ht From cigh*
till ten^ whenever th<i we&th<^f would vermit. :i
«,:SKK«.^
,/*.' r
CHAP. IL "-w -H\y»
BSSCRIPTtOV Of 3T. CATVi,AK(W£'?i-'-OU<t'j:FVA'*
• TIONS AND f.VEMTS DtTitllsil OUR tiTAY —
DEPARTrRE FROM ST. CATM AEiNL's — Aiift W/, Ï,
AT LA CONCEPTSOST. ^^ a
THE island of St. Catharrae extends from 27'
19' 10", to 27' 49' south latitude ; and its
lieadth from east to west is not, rnor3 ^han two
Wgues in the narrowest part, It is separated from
tbecontinentonlybyachannelofSCCcoisesinwidth.
Oo the point at tbe mouth of this struit is built the
city of NossaSenhom '1 el D?stevro, the capital of this
COmroandery^ w!iere the governor resides. It con-
tains, ;^t }ri0&t, 3000 inhabitants, and about 400
fco^fSfi, ; 'dtïà wear^a very agreeable appearance. Ac-
4^;/rding to Frézier's account, this island served, in
(he year \7\% as an asylum for a set of vagabonds,
who escaped thither from different parts of Brazil^,
w. ' ' '^'' and
i
ÛB LA pêrouse's votacet [1785;
àncf were but nominally subject to Purtugnl, as they
«cknowledgtd no lawful authority. The country is
go fertile that they were able to subsist without any
snppliesfromthenei^hbouringcolonies, and as they
were destitute oF money, they could neither offer
a temptation to the avarice of the governor-general
of Brazil, nor inspire him with a hope of subduing
them. The vessels which touched there gave them
nothing in exchange for provisions but clothes and
shirts, of which they were almost destitute. Not till
towards the year 1740 did the Court of Lisbon esta-
blish a regular government in St. Catharine's, and
the parts adjacent on the continent. This govern-
ment esetends from north to eouth 60 leagues, from
the river St. Francisco to Rio-Grande. Its popula-
tion amounts to âO,000 ; but I have seen so great
a number of children in some families, that I think
it will soon be more considerable. The soil is ex-
tremely fertile, and produces, almost spontaneously,
all sorts of fruits, vegetables and grain. It is co-
vered with trees that are always green ; but so inter-
mixed with briars and thorns, that the forests are im-
passable, without cutting away with the hatchet;
besides which they are intiEsted with serpents whose
|)ite is mortal. Their houses, both on the island and
continent, are all on the edge of the sea : and the
woods, which surround them, yield a most delight-
ful fragrance, from the abundance of orange- trees,
and other aromatic plants and shrubs, with which
they abound. But, notwithstanding these advan-
tages, the country is very poor, and absolutely des-
titute of manufactures; insomuch, that the peasants
are almost naked, or covered with rags. Their soil,
^hich would be very suitable for the cultivation of
sugar, cannot be employed for that purpose without
slaves, whom they are not rich enough to purchase.
The whale-fishery is very productive, but the crown
has conferred an exclusive right to it on a company
at
1*7851
BOÙNt) THÉ WOtlîJ.
m
at Libbon This compan;»* lias, upon the coast, three
great establish. nents, where they take about 4^>0
whales every year, the prodiiee ot* vvhich, both in
oil and spermaceti, is sent to Lisbon, by way of Rio-
Janeiro. Of this fishery the inhabitants are merely
spectators, for it yiebis them no profit ; and if
the government do not relieve then), and grant
them immunities or other encouragen^ents, one of
the finest countries on the face of the globe will
languish for ever in the depression of poverty, and
become useless and burthensome to the mother*
country.
The approach of ships to St. Catharine's is very
easy. Eighteen leagues in the offing there are 6&
fathoms water, over a bottom of soft mud, gradually
shoaling till within four cables length of the shores
where there is still four fathoms water.
The ordinary channel is between the island of AU
varedo and the north point of St. Catiiarine*s : but
there is another between the islands of Gal and
Alvaredo, which however requires yet to be exr-
plored. Our boats were so much employed during
our stay, that I could not take the soundings.
Tlie best anchorage is half a league from Fortresf
Island^ in six fathoms, oozy bottom, the citadel
bearing S. 3" W. the fort on the larger point S. 6*
E. There are several wateiing places both on the
island and the continent; and that creek may be
chosen where the wind renders the landing most easy.
This consideration is of great importance ; for the
navigation of boats is very ditficult in this har-
bour, which is two leagues wide as far as the bight
where the town stands : and there is a violent surf
always breaking on the lee shore. The tides are
very irregular : and the flood comes in between
the two cliannels lying north and south Up to
this bight it rises but three feet.
It appeared that our arrival had spread great terror
" ■ _ through
m
liA PâHOUSE*S VOYAOE
[1785.
tb'^^ugh the whole country. The different forts fired
several alarm ^uns, which determined me to cast an-
chor early, and send my boat on shore with an offi»
cer. to make known our pacific intentions, and our
•want of water, wood, and refreshments. M. de
Pierrevert, whom I empio} ed on this occasion, found
the little garrison of the citadel underarms, con*
sistinjj: of 40 soldiers, commanded by a captain, who
immediately dispatched anexpresstothc city, toGo*
yernor Don Francisco <le Baros, Brigadier-General
of Infantry. He had been apprised of ourexpedi»
tion bv the Lisbon Gazette ; and a bronze medal-
iion thut I sent him left no doubt' respecting our
"object in touching there. The most precise and
«peedy orders were issued, that every thjng neces-^
l^ary sliouid be furiiii>hed us at a fair price : an<l an
officer appointed to each frigate, who was entirely
<at our command. We sent him with the clerks of
Jthc commissary of stores to purchase provisions of
Ahe inhabitants. On the 9th of November I re^
moved nearer the fortress, from which I had hi-
^jtherto been at some distance. I went, the same day,
.with M. de Laiigle and sevei al officers, to pay a visit
;to the commander of this post, who saluted me with
1 1 discharges of cannon, which were returned by my
*iship. Next day I sent my boat, under the command
'Ot Lieutenant Boutin, to the city ot'Nossa-Senhora
xlel Desierro, to make my acknowledgements to the
.Governor for the great abundance his atteutiops
procured us. Messrs. de Monneron, de Lamanon,
-and tlie Abbé Mongès. accompanied this officer, to-
gether with M. de la Borde ^vlarchainville, and Fa-
rther Receveur, who had been «iispatched by M. dc
iangle for the same purpose ; they were all received
with the utuu)st politeness and cordiality.
'■ Dim Francisco cie Baros, governor of this com-
mandery, spoke Fiençh with perfect ease, and his
rcomprehcnsive knowledge inspired us with the
f ,,,:».,/ •' * 'fuliest
ROUND THE WORLD
• T
91
fullest confidence. Our friends dined with him,'and
were informed at dinner, that the supposed island of
Ascension had no real existence» although the Go-
vernor-General of Brazil had, upon the testimony of
M. Daprès, dispatched a vessel the preceding year
tosurvey ViW ihc points formerly laid down as parts of
that island ; and the captain of the vessel having
found none of them, it had heen expunged from the
charts, that an ancient error might not be perpetuat-
ed*. He added, that the island of Trinidad hari al-
^yays formed a part of the Portuguese possessions^
and that the English had evacuated it on the first
requisition of the Queen of Portugal; the English
minister adding that the nation had never given its
sanction to this establishment, which was no more
than a private adventure.
At eleven o'clock the next day, the boats of the-
Astrolabe and Boussole returned, and announced
an early visit from the Major-Geueral of tiie co»
lony, Don Antonio de Gama, who did not how-
ever arrive till the 1 3th, when he brought me a most
obliging letter from the Governor. The season was
so far advanced that I had not a moment to lose.
Our crews enjoyed the finest health, and I had flat-
tered myself on my arrival that I should provide for
all our wants, and be reaHy to set sail iu five or six
days. But the southerly winds and the currents were
so violent, that all communication with the land was
* It would be injurious to the improvement of navigation, and
fatal to navigators, to adopt this metliod of effacing from our chaits,
islands formerly discovered, because they have been sought in vain»
or their position uncertain, through paucity of the means of laying
them down accurately at theperiol of their discovery.
I ought to oppose this method the more earnestly, as I have
proved the existence of Ascension island. In thus effacing islands
from the globe, we become, in some measure, responsible for the
dangers incurred by navigators when they fall in with them,
luUerl into security by their charts ; whereas, iflaid down, though
uncertain, yet by rousing the attention of the navigator, they may
•ssist him more easily to find them,— ^JprewcA Editor .
frequently
32 , LA pérouse's voyage [1785.
frequently interrupted ; a circumstance which re-
tarded my departure.
I had chosen St. Catharine's in preference to Rio-
Janeiro, merely toavoidthe ceremonious formalities
of great cities, which always occasion a loss of time.
Eut experience taught me that this harbour united
several advantages. Provisions of every kind were
extremely plentiful; a large ox cost eight piastres,
a hog of 150 lb, weight cost four, and turkeys
were sold for a piastre the pair. We had only to
throw the net in order to draw it up full of fish.
Oranges were brought on board and sold to us at the
rate of 500 for less than half a piastre, and vegetables
were also very reasonable. The following fact will
give some idea of the hospitality of this good people.
Sly boat having been overset by the surf, in a creek
where the crew were cutting wood, the inhabitants
whoassisted in saving it, obliged our sailors who had
been cast away, togo into their beds; sleeping them-
selves on matts in the middle of the room which was
the scene of this affecting hospitality. A few days
after, they brought on board the sails and masts of
the boat with its grapnel and flag, objects of great
Talue in their estimation, and which would have
proved of the utmost utility in their canoes. This
people are good, obliging, and of gentle manners;
but they are very superstitious, and jealous of their
wives, who never appear in public.
Our officers shot many birds of most brilliant
plumage, among others a rollier, a bird of a re-
markably fine blue ; which, though not described
by Buffon, is very common in this country.
Not having foreseen the obstacles which detained
lis twelve days in the road, we did not land our
astronomical clocks, supposing we should not Heat
anchor more than five or six days; a circumstance
which, however, caused but little regret, as the sky
was constantly cloudy. We thcrefoi-e determined
V Î ' the
1785.]
^ ROUNp TUE WORLD.
33
the longitude of this island by thç moon's distance
from the sun^ and accordinig ^to our observations,
the most north-easterly point in St. Catharine's,
may be fined m 49' 49' W. longitude, and 27" 1^^
S. latitude. .
On the evening of the l6th, every thing being oii
board, I sent my packets to the Governor, who had
undertaken to send them to Lisbon, where I ad^
dressed them to Mv de Saint- Marc, our Consul-
general ; every ope being permitted to write to his
family and friends. We flattered ourselves with
setting sail the next day, but the north wind, which
would have been so favourable to us had we been
out at sea, detained us in the bottom of the bay
till the 19th of November. I then weighed at
break of day, but the calm oblisjiug me to cast'
anchor again for some hours, I did not clear all the
islands till night. ' '
We had purchased at St. Catharine's oxen, hogs,
and poultry sufficient for the ship's crew for more
than a mouth, and had added some orange and le-
mon trees to our collection, which, ever since our
departure from Brest, had been well preserved in
cases made at Paris under the eye and direction of
M. Thouin. Our gardener was also furnished with
the seeds of oranges and lemons, grains of rice,
maize and cotton, and in general every species of
esculent plant, of which navigators have described
the inhabitants of the South Sea to be destitute, and
which are more analogous to their climate and mode
of living than the pot-herbs of France, of which we
alo») carried an immense quantity of seeds.
The day of my departure I sent to the Astrolabe
ne\v^ signals of much greater extent than those we
had hitherto used. We were going to navigate in
the midst of fogs, and in the most stormy seas ; cir-
cumstance: which required additional precautions.
It was also agreed with M. de Langle, that in case •
Vol. J. D of
d4
LA P£liOtf8£'S VOTAÔE
[1785.
of separaéioB our first rendezvous should be Port Sue-
cesi, in the Straits of Le Maire, suppOHi»iiç us not to
Jiave already passed beyond its latitude by the 1st of
Jatiuary and the second, Veiius Po^nt. in the island
ot Otaheite. I further informed htm, that I should
limtt my researches in the Atlantic Ocean to
risle Grande de la Roche, having no longer time
to seek a passage to the southward of the Sand-
wich Islande. I then rci^retted extremely that I
CouKI not begin my researches to the eastward; but
I did not dare to pursue a n>easure so contrary to
the plan adopted in France, because in that case I
could no whire have received the Minister's letters
which had been announced to me, and which might
contain the most important instructions.
The weather was very fine till the 28th, when it
blew a very heavy gale from the east for the first
time since our departure from France ; and I saw
with infinite pleasure that if our ships sailed very
badly, they behaved very well in foul weather, and
would be able to withstand the rough seas we had to
encounter. We were then in 35* .4' south lati-
tude, and 4S 40' West longitude : I steered E.S.E.
becauNC i pu posed in my search after I'lsle Grande
to get into Ui> latitude ten degrees to the eastward of
the place assigned it in the difierent charts. I did
not shut m^y eyes to the extreme difficulties I should
have to struggle with ; but, in all events, I was under
the necessity of running very far to the westward in
order to reach the Straits of Le Maire ; and all the
way I should make on that point of the compass,
pursuing the parallel of Tlsle Grande^ brought me
nearerthe coast of Patagonia, the soundings of which
I was obliged to take before I doubled Cape Horn.
The latitude of ITsle Grande not being perfectly de-
termined^ it was more probable I shpuid meet with
it in plying between 44" and 45" of latitude than
if I steeredii direct course in 44" 30^ as I might do
m
fta sailing
constant
the east I
It will
advantag
40 days i
five heav
my cours
On the
parallel oi
34" W, lo
taken the
the sea-W(
many day
and petre
but in the
These fi
hopes alivi
T7ewere n
quietude \
back to th
Maire, wl
before the
I kept
till the S4
longitude
cemberabî
island of
goémon at
ofiand, sij
made the
our daily ri
* If risle
n»p« with in<
signed him,
its nosition h
«Itrectivejourr
5anus,tberea
» the positioJ
1785.] nOUND THE WORLD. SS
fa sailing from west to east, the wind blowing as
constantly from the west in these latitudes as from
the east between the tropics.
It will presently be perceived that I derived no
advantages from these considerations, and that after
40 days fruitless research, during which I met with
five heavy gales of wind, I was obliged to direct
my course for my ulterior destination.
On the 7th of December I was on the pretended
parallel of I'Isle Grande in 44** 38' S. latitude, and
34* W. longitude, according to a lunar observation
taken the preceding day, when we saw a species of
the sea-weed called goémon pass us, and were for
many days surrounded with birds of the albatross
and petrel kind, which never approach the land
but in the season for laying.
These feeble indicia of land, however, kept our
hopes alive, and reconciled us to the dreadful seas
\re were navigating. But I was not without dis-
quietude when I considered that I had 35** to run
back to the westward, as far as the Straits of Le
Maire, which it was of great importance to reach
before the end of January.
I kept plying between 44** and 45*" S. latitude,
till the S4th of December, and ran down 15* of
longitude on this parallel, and in the 27th of De-
cemberabandoned my attempt, being convinced the
island of La Roche had no existence*, and that the
goémon and petrels by no means prove the vicinity
of land, since I met with sea-weeds and birds till I
made the coast of Patagonia. The chart on which
oar daily run is traced will exhibit the track I followed
* If I'Isle Grande de la Roche could hare been placed in the
maps with morecertdnty, LaPérouse, in traversng the |>an]lel as-
àgned him, might have been assured that it did not exist. But ai
its jwsition has never been exactly determined, on account of the
dcKctive journals of Anthony de la Roche, and Vespucius Ameri-
canuSftbc researches of La Pérouse only prove that it docf not exist
in the position indicated.— frcnM Editor,
0 2 — *^ much
36
LA PÉROUSES VOYAGE
ims
much more' clearly than these details, and I am con-
vinced th >t navi<4:ators who may succeed me in this
research will not be more fortunate than myself:
but they ought not topursuethiscourseexcept when
they are steerinpf E. towards the Indian Ocean, where
it is not more difficult or more tedious to run 90' on
this parallel than on any other; and if they find no
land thpy will at least have pursued a course approach-
in ir the object. I am persuaded I'lsle Grande, like that
of" Pep is, has merely a chimerical existence*, and
that the report of La Roche, who pretended toha^e
seen great trees there, is void of all probability, vit
is very rertain thit in 45" nothing hut shrubs can
be found upon an island placed in the midst of the
southtTii ocean, since not a single large tree is.to
be found on the islands of Tristan d'Acunha, a lati-
tude infinitely more favourable to vegetation.
On the 25tli of December, the wind settled in the
S. W. quarter, and continued there several days,
which obliged me to steer VV N.W. and quit the
parallel I had constantly followed during 20 days.
As I had then passed the point assigned in all the
maps to risle Grande de la Roche, and the season
was far advanced, I determined to steer that course
which would most accelerate my progress to the west-
ward, much fearing lest I should be exposed to dou-
ble Cape Horn in the stormy season. But the wea-
ther was more favourable than I hoped. The heavy
gales ceased with the month of December, and the
month of January was nearly as pleasant as that of
* I know that New Georgia, as mentioned in the Journal of La
RocHp, has a^ain been found, but I am mu* h in doubt whether
we ought to ascribe \o him the honour qf this di8cx>very. Ac-
eording to hi:» Journal there is a strait of ten leagues b^ tween the
Isle of Bird? and Georgia, while in reality this strait is not more
than one league; a mistake *oo great for the most inexperienced
mariner to maite, had he been speaking pf the same place. It is
however from the former place ihc dcpartute should be taken, in
order to pldCe risle Grande between 43° and 54" of longitude, for
I have crossed every meridian from 33" to 60" withoutd scoveringit.
July
\ I
ROUND THE WORLD, ^j
37
1785.]
July on the coasts of Europe. The wind only blew
from the N.W. and S.W, But we were able to
carry all our sails ; and these changes of the wipd
were always so distinctly aunounced by the appear-
ance of the sky, that we were certain of the moment
when the wind was going so shift, and were there-
by enabled to run on the most advantageous tack.
The moment the horizon became hazy, and tbe sky
cloudy, tbeS W. wind shifted to the west, and two
hours afterwards it came round to the N. W, : on
the contrary» when the haziness disappeared we were
lure the wind would not be long before it came
round by the W» to the S W. I do not believe
that during 66 days sailing the wind veered from
N. to S. by the E. more than J 6 hours.
We had some days of calm weather, with a
smooth sea, during which the officers of both fri-
gates formed shooting parties in the boat^and killed
a considerable quantity ot fowls with which we were
almost always surrounded. This sport, which was
generally productive, procured fresh provisions for
the crew, and it often happened that we killed a
sufficient quantity to make a general distribution.
The sailors not only preferred them to salt meat,
but 1 believe they contributed infinitely more to
keep them in good health.
in our different excursions we killed nothing but
albatrosses of the large and small kind, witii four
varieties of petrels. These birds when skinned and
highly seasoned were nearly as good as the wild
ducks eaten in Europe. Tliey have been well de-
scribed by the naturalists who accotnpanied Captain
Cook, and are the same as those of which Messrs.
Banks, Solander, and Forster have given the most
satisfactory descriptions.
At length on the 14th of January we came into
the soundings of Patagonia, in 47" 50' S. latitude,
and 64° 37' W. longitude, according to our last
-^ D3 . lunar
38
LA P£R0V8E*S VOTAOB
[1785.
lunar observations, for which we never suffered any
opportunity to escape when the weather was fa*
vourable. The officers of the ship were so accuse
tomed to it, and seconded M. Dagelet so assidu*
ously, that I do not believe our greatest error in
longitude could exceed half a degree.
On the 21st we made Cape Fair-Weather, on the
north point of the river Gallegos, on the coast of
Patagonia, being three leagues from the land in 41
fathoms water, over a bottom of small clayey
stones about the size of peas. Our longitude d&
termined at noon, differed from the chart in Cook%
second voyage only 15', which we were more to the
eastward. We sailed along the coast of Patagonia
at a distance of between three and five leagues
from shore.
On the Sad at noon we set Virgin's Cape, bear-
ing four leagues west. This land is lowana without
verdure. The view of it given by the editor of
Admiral Anson*s Voyage appeared to me very ex-
act, and its position is determined with perfect ac-
curacy in the chart of Cook's second voyage.
The soundings as far as Virgin's Cape always
bring up soft mud, or those small stones mixed with
ooze, which are generally found in a line with the
mouths of rivers. But on the coast of Terra del
ï'uego we had always a rocky bottom, and only
from â4 to 30 fathoms water, tHoughat the distance
of three leagues from the land, which makes me
think this coast is not so bold as that of Patagonia.
The charts of Captain Cook have determined
with the mt>8t perfect accuracy the latitude and
longitude of the different capes of this coast. ^ -^-^^^
The bearings of the coasts are delineated from
exact surveys, but the minutise, in which consists
the security of navigation, have not been attended
to with sufficient care. Neither Captain Cook nor
any other navigator can answer for more than the
tracks
LI
1785. J
19UND THE WOEID*
99
tracks they have followed, and the soundiogi they
bave taken ; and it is possible that in smooth water
they may have passed bv banks and shoals» which
did not then break, so that this navigation requires
JDlinitely more caution thaa that of our European
continents.
I have entered into these particulars with a view
to point out the degree of confidente to be placed
in these sort of charts, doubtless the most accurate
th^t can be constructed in a rapid passage over a great
extent of sea. It was impossible for the old navi-
gators, before the method of taking iunar observa-
tions, to approach this degree pf precision, which is
such, that within 20 minutes, I can rely upon the
points we hav^ veritied, as fully as on the longi-
tude of the observatories of London and Paris.
On the S^th, at twp o^clock^ I had Cape St
Diego bearing south one league, that beiug the
western point of the Straits of Le Maire. ! had
since the morning kept at that distance from the
shore, and foUoi«ved on Captai h Couk*s chart the
bay where Mr. Banks landed in search of plants,
Mobile the Resolution waited for him under sail.
The weather was so favourable that it was impos*
sible for me to shew the same compliance to ou** na-
turalists. At three o*clock I entered the strait, hav-
ing doubled point St. Diego at the distance of about
|of a league, where there are breakers which I believe
do not extend more than a mile : but, having ob-
served the sea to break more m the olhng, I steered
S.£. that I might increase my disiaiice from the
breakers. I soon perceived this appearance wa^
occasioned by the currents^ and that the reefs of
Cape St. Diego were at a considerable distance.
Asitblew fresh from the north ward,anditwasiiHny
power to approach Terra del Fuegb, I ran ;ilongit Kalf
aleague from the shore. The wind wassotavourable,
and the season so far advanced, that I deteniiiae^
D4 immediately
ié
LA Vt house's TOTAOÉ
[1785.
immediately tri give up the idea of touching at Suc-
cess Bay, and ehdeavour to double Cape Horn, f
considered that it was impossible to provide every
thittg I Wanted iri less than ten or twelve days, and
that this time had been absolutely necessary at St.
Catharine's ; because, in these open bays where the
sea breaks with violence on the shore, for half the
day béats cannot land. If to these inconveniences
were added the south winds, which might have for
some time detained me in Success Bay, the fa-
vourable season would elapse, and I should expose
tny ship to dangers, and my crew to fatigues, very
prejudicial to the success of the expedition.
'These considerations detetitrfned me to steer for
file island of Juati Ftrriandezi whichlay in my course,
and Whe^e Î could prAcufc wood' and water, with
s^ime refVesihments tar superiorto the penguins of the
Stfaijt. At thîs'timel had not one sick man on
bodrd. Fourscore casks of water remained unbroach-
cd, and Terra del Fuego has been so often visited and
described, that Pcould not flatter myself with ad-
ding to what had beeh already said of it.
During od^ pUssage through the strait of le Maire,
the savages, according to custom, kindled great
fires to induce lis to anchor. We observed one on
tlrc north point of Success Bay, and another on the
north point of Valentine's Bay. I am persuaded,
with Captain Cook, that ships may anchor indiffe-
rently in all these bays. There is plenty of wood
dndVater, but doubtless less game than at Christ-
itias Harboiir, oti account of the savages who fre*
qubnt them great part tyf the year.
^^ While navigating this strait about half a league
from Teri'a del Fuego, we were surrounded by
whales, who, it is evident, had never been disturbed,
for our ships did ftot at all alarm them. 'J'bey
swam majestically within pistolshot of us, and-^will
remain sovereigns of these seas, till fishermen wage
V • - ., on
1785.]
ROUND THE WOBII).
41
on them the same war as the adventurers of. G rven*
land do in the north. There is not, perhaps, a bettef
spot on-all the globe for this fishery. Vessels voiild
find anchorage in excellent bays, abounding^ in
wood and water, as M'ell as some antiscorbutic herbs
and sea-fowl, and their boats, without quitting them
more than a league, might take all the whales they
wanted to complete their cargoes. Their only in-
convenience would be the length of the voyage>
which would require nearly five month» for, the
passage out, and the same.:hii)nie ; an d^, I believe,
these latitudes can only be frequented during the
months of December, Janudry^and February. 13
We were unable tomakeany observations respect-
ing the current of the StrUits, for ve entered th^m at
three o'clock ini the afternoon^ when the moon was
fiédaysoldj.andtheycamMus'with violence to the
southward till five, when the tide changed. But as
we had a fresh breeze from the nortfi, we stemmçd
it with ease; The horizon was so foggy towards the
east, that we.had not perceived Statin Island ; frotki
which, however, we could notbe five leagues distant,
that being the whole breadth of tbe Straits But we
had passed so near Terra del Fuega, that.wf^obserVed
with our telescope some savages lighting g.f eat fires,
their only means of communicating thçïr desire of
inviting vessels on shore. Another motive yet more
powerful, determined me to abandon my design of
putting into Success Bay. For I had been' a long
time forming a new plan, on which 1 could not de-
termine till after I had passed Cape Horn, ^irunr^ii
My design was to go to the N.^W,) coast of An?e*
rica that year; a route which, although, l had
received no such instrucMons, I kn^w had only
been suppressed through fear that I should not have
time to perform so lonji a vo3îage before winter : for
this plan would otherwise have united a great num-
er of advantages. In that qase 1 should pursue a
, V» ne\y
43
lA pâbouse's voyage
[1785.
new route» and cross latitudes, vhere I might
posiibl3[ discover many unknown islands. I should
also visit much «ooner all the places of my desti-
nation, for which a stay of two years had been allot-
ted in the northern, and (wo in the southern hemi-
sphere, my instructions expressly permitting me to
execute his Majesty's commission in the manner
which should appear to promise most success to the
expedition; for the final adoption of my plan, there-
fore, I only waited to know at what time 1 should
arrive in the South Sea.
'■ I doubled Cape Horn with much greater facility
than I expected : though I am now convinced that
this navigation is not more hazardous than any other
in these nigh latitudes. The dangers we dreaded
were only the chimerical oifspring of an ancient prêt
judice, which ought no longer to exist, and which
the reading of Anson's voyages contributes not a
little to support among navigators.
On the 9th of February I was off the mouth of
the Straits of Magellan, in the South Sea, steering
for Juan Fernandez. By my reckoning I had passed
over tlie supposed situation of the land which Drake
pretended to have discovered ; but I lost little time
in search of it, being convinced it did not exist.
Since my departure from Europe, the tracks of the
ancient navigators had occupied all my thoughts.
But their Journals are generally so ill compiled, as to
aiford little more than hints and conjectures ; and
those geographers who are not seamen, are generally
ignorant of these matters, and unable to investigate,
with critical accuracy, accounts which require a
strict and distrustful examination. Consequently
they have laid down islands which never existed but
in charts, and, being mere phantoms of the imagina-
tion,soon disappearedbeforeour modern navigators.
In 1578, five days after his departure from the
Straits of Magellan, Admiral Drake met with very
(ji V heavv
178^.] ROUND THE WORLD, v' éH^
heavy gales of wind in the greatsouthern ocean, which \
continued near a month. It is difficult to follow him |
on his various courses, but at length he touched at ;
an island in 57° S. latitude» where he landed and re- <
marked great flights of birds. Then, running to the i
northward for the space of SO leagues; he fell in with -
otherislands inhabited by savages possessedof canoes.
These islands produce woodand antiscorbutic plants.
Who but would recognize, from this description, t
Terra del Fuego on which Prake landed ; and, pro- ^
bably, on the island of Diego Ram ires, which lies
nearly in the latitude of Drake's pretended island ?
At that time Terra del Fuego was unknown. X^
Maire and Schouten had not discovered the strait
which is named after them, till 1 616 ; and the ge-
neral opinion before that time had always been, that
there existed in the southern, as well as in the
northern hemisphere, a continent - hich extended to >
the neighbourhood of the poles. The southern part
oF America was thought to be intersected by straits,
one of which, like Magellan, they supposed they had
discovered. These erroneous ideas were calculated
to mislead Admiral Drake, who was carried by the
currents 42 oi iS degrees to the eastward of his reck-
oning, as it has happened since to a great number of
other navigators in the same latitudes. This opi-
nion, so probable in itself, amounts to a certainty,
when we reflect that a ship of the same squadron
which had stretclied to the northward, while the
Commodore stood to the southward, re-entered the
Straits of Magellan which it had just quitted : an
evident proof that it had made no way to the wes^t-
ward, and that Admira! Drake had not passed beyond
the longitude of America. We may add, that it is ex-
tremely improbable that an island so far from tlie
continent, and in 57° latitude, should be covered
^vitb trees, when none are to be found on Falkland's
Islands, which are situated only in 55" ; that nei-
ther
m>ii
h'S^^M
^•0
«# 4
1 44
LA PÉROUSES VOTAGE
[178.
ï <her on these last, nor on Staten Island, whicliis
, 1 -separated from the continent'by a strait of only five
•Ï leagues wide, is there a single inhabitant; and, lastly,
? the description which Drake gives of the savages,
. ? thfcir boats, trees and plants, suits the Pécherais so
well, and in general coincides so exactly with every
other account of Terra del Fuego, that 1 am un-
able to conjecture why Drake's Island still pre-
serves its place on the maps.
• The W.S.W. winds, therefore, being favourable
for my getting to the northward, I did not suffer
time so precious to be lost in this vain research, but
'continued my route to Juan Fernandez. But on
examining my stock of provisions, I found we had
very little bread and flour, having been obliged, as
well as M. de Langle, to leave 400 quarters at
Brest for want of stowage. The worms also had got
■ -into the biscuit; not that they had rendered it
uneatable, but had reduced the quantity about a
fifth. On these considerations I preferred Concep-
L tion Bav to the island of Juan Fernandez, well
knowing that part of Chili to aboutid in grain,-which
was cheaper there than in any part of Europe, and
that I should there find all other provisions in plenty,
and at the most reasonable price. I therefore shaped
my course somewhat more to the eastward.
The 22d, in the evening, I made the island of
Mocha, which is about 50 leagues to the south of
La Conception. Fearing I should be carried by the
currents too much to the northward, I had been
induced to haul in for land ; a precaution which I
now think was needless, it being sufficient to get
into the latitude of the island of Santa Maria, which
it is necessary to make, taking care however not to
approach it nearer than about three leagues, oiiac-
' count of the sunken rocks tliat extend very far out
from the north-west point of the island.
When that point is doubled you may range along
''- the
1785.] ROUND THE WORLD.' 45
the land, there bein^ no lona^er any hidden danger,
except within a small distance of the shore. At the
same time you are in sight of the Mamelles de Biobio,
two mountains of which the name indicates the
shape. It is necessary to steer a little to the north-
ward of the Mamelles for the point of Talcaguana.
This promontory forms the western limit of Con-
ceptioij Bay, which extends abciut three leagues
from east to west, and as many in depth from north
to south. But the mouth of the bay is contracted
by the island of Quiquirina, which is situated in the
middle and forms two entrances. Of these the
eastern passage is the safest and most frequented,
being about a league broad ; whereas that to the
west, between the island of Quiquirina and the
point of Talcaguana does not exceed a quarter of a
league, and is full of rocks, through which a passage
ought not to be attempted without a very skilful
pilot.
Soundings are found upon the coast from the
island of ISanta Maria to the entrance of Concep-
tion Bay. Three leagues in the offing we found 70
fatlioms water over a bottom of black inud ; anti
30 fathoms in the bay, in the direction of E. and W.
From the north point of the island of Quiquirina
the soundings gradually decreased to seven fathoms
within two musket-shots of the land. There is ex-
cellent anchorage in all parts of the bay, but there
is no shelter from the north winds except off the
viilaoe ot Talcaguana.
We doubled the point of the island of Quiquirina
at two in the afternoon, but the south winds which
had hitherto been so aiuch in our favour were now
become contrary. We therefore made several boards.
taking caie to keep our lead going. We looked for
the town of Conception wiih our telescopes, which
from the cnart of Frézier we knew must lie to the
south-east, and in the botlomofthe bay, but could
not
*'-^i>'^MI>i
fh
46
LA PER0U8ES TOTiLOE
[1785.
not discover it. ^t five in the evenings pilots came
on board, who informed \\s, that town had been de-
stroyed by an earthquake in 175 1, and did not then
exist ; and that the new town had been built on the
river Biobio, three leagues distant from the sea. From
thesepilots we also learnt, that ourarrival was expect*
ed at La Conception, letters from the Spanish Mini-
ster having already reached them. We continued
working to wind ward^ to approach the bottom of the
bay ; and at nine P.M. we anchored in nine fathoms
water, about a league to the N.£. of the ?inchoraKe
of Talcaguana, whither we were to remove in the
morning.
About ten o'clock that evening, M. Postigo, a
captain in the Spanish navy, came on board my ship,
with a message from the com mandant of La Concep-
tion. He slept on board, and^ at day-break, depart^
eâ, to give an account of his mission, having first
suggested to the pilot we had taken on board, the
most convenient place for us to anchor. Before he
took horse, hoM'Cver, he sent us some fresh provisions,
fruits, and pulse in greater abundance than was ne-
cessary even for the whole crew,, whose healthful ap-
pearance seemed to excite his surprise. No vessel
perhaps had ever doubled Cape Horn, and arrived
at Chili, without having several sick on board, and
there was not one in either of our ships.
''■ At seven in the morning we weighed, and being
tow^d in by our boats, we dropped anchor in the
creek of Talcaguana, at 11 A.M. on the S4th of
February, in seven fathoms water, over a bottom of
black mud, the middle of the village of Talcagua-
na bearing S. 21° W;, Fort St. Angustin S.,and Fort
Galves near our watering place N.W. S" W.
Since our arrival on the coast of Chili, we had
ievery day taken lunar observations. Our longi-
tudes differed very little from those laid down by
Don George Juan. But as we had reason to believe
.'^4^
our
17UJ.]
AOUMD ttlE WORLU.
47
our present method of taking them very ^perior
to that made use of in 1744, we shall lay clown
the northernmost point of the island of Santa Ma-
ria, in 37° r S. lat. and 7A° S5' 45* W. lonpf. and
the middle of the village of Talcaguana iu 36" 42f
21" S. lat. and 75" 120' W. long, according to the
observations made by M. Dagelet fiotn our astro-
nomical tents, erected by the sea side.
The plan delineated by Don George Juan is made
with so much accuracy, that we had only to verify
it; but Mr. Bernizet, our geographical engineer,
added a partdf the course of the river Biobio, in or-
der to shew the situation of the new town, and the
road leading to it.
?4^m CHAR HL *^"- •
PESCRIPTION OF CONCEPTION BAT — MANNERS
AND CUSTOMS Of THE INHABITANTS — i)E-
PARTUHE FROM TALCAQUANA — ARRIVAL AT
FASl'KR ISLAND.
THE bay of Conception, is one of the most
commodious that can be found in any part of
the world. For though the tide rises six feet three
inches, the water is smooth, and there is scarcely any
current. It is high water here at the full and change
ofthe moon, at 45 minutes past one. The bay is open
only to the north winds, which never blow but iti
the winter — that is, from the end of May to October.
In this season also the rains fall, and continue
throughout the monsoon, for so we may denominate
constant winds, which are succeeded by others from
the south, that continue to blow for the rest ofthe
year^ und are accompanied with fine weather. The
only anchorage, sheltered from the NE. winds»
in tlîe winter, is before the village of Talcaguana^
on the south-west side. '"=**' •»'•*' -V'' -• - «fr^ .
At
■i
/'/
4ê tA P£ROUSE*S VOTAAE [1785.
At present there is no other Spanish settlement in
this bay, the ancient town of Conception, as I have
aliFeady mentioned, having been destroyed by au
earthquake in 1751. It then stood at the mouth of
the river St. Pierre, on the east of Talcaguana, and
its ruins are still to be seen^ though unlike the re-
mains of ancient magnificence in the other hemi-
sphere. Their duration will be short, the build-
ings of this country being only of clay, or bricks
baked in the sun, andthe roofs covered with scallop
tiles, as in the southernmost provinces of France.
'' After the destructioïi of this town, which, during
the earthquake, was rather swallowed up by the sea
than by the land, the inhabitants dispersed, and en-
camped in the environs. It was not till 1763 that they
made choice of anotherspot, situated about a quarter
of a league from the river Biobio, and three leagues
from the ancient town of Conception, and the vil-
lage of Talcaguana. On this spot they built a new
town, to which the bishopric, the cathedral, and
the religious houses were transferred. The houses
consisting but of one story, that they may be
the better able to resist the shock of earthquakes,
which occur in these parts almost every year ; this
town occupies a great extent of ground.
The inhabitants are about 10,000; and here is
the residence of the bishop and a colonel of horse,
who is the military governor. The bishoprick is no-
minally bounded on the nonh by that ofSant-Jago,
the capital ot Chili, where the governor general re-
tides ; and on theeast by the Cordilleras, and extend-
ing on the south as far as the Straits of Magellan.
But iv; true liaiit is the river Biobio, about a quarter
of a k ague from the town. All the country to the
south ot that river, with the exception of the isle of
,Chiloe, and a small circle round Baldivia belongs
to the Indians, who cannot be deemed subjects of
the Spaniuids, wfth whom they arc continually at
ff. ' • . war
1785.1 ROUND tnR WORLDS ' 40
war, which renders the Spaniih governor*8 ofRce at
oDCe difficult and important. To him is entrufted
the command of the militia of the country as well
as the regular troops, from which he derives a great
influencé over the inhabitants, whofc civil governor
is the coiTegidor. The defence of the country alfo
refis folely with him; fo that between war and nego-
tion hé finds inceflant employ. A new adminiftra-
tion is now forming, which perhaps will differ little
from that of our colonies, and the authority will be
divided between the governor and the intendant.
In the Spanifh colonics it ihould be obferved, there
is no fupreme council ; thofe who are invefted with
the king's authority are alfo, with fome legal affift
ants, the judges in all civil actions. Hence it is
obvious, that juftice being adminiftered by officers
of unequal rank, the opinion of the fuperior draws
with it that of his inferiors. He therefore is, in
fa6t, the fole judge ; and to expccSl that great mif-
cbiefs will not enfuc from fuch an adminiftration, is
to fuppofe him endowed with unufual talents, and
fuperior to all paffion and prejudice.
The whole world does not afford a more fertile
fpot than this part of Chili. Corn produces iixty
fold, and the vine is equally abundant, the fields are
covered with innumerable flocks, which, without
requiring any care, multiply beyond all calculation.
The only care necefîàry is to keep feparate the dif-
ferent property of individuals ; and oxen, horfes,
mules and fheep herd together in the fame enclo-
iures. A large ox is ordinarily worth eight dol-
lar , u Iheep three quarters of a dollar ; but there
are no purchafers, and the inhabitants kill every year
a great quantity of cattle, the Ikins and tallow of
which are fent to Lima. They alfo cure fome pro-
vifions for the confumption of the fmall coafling vef-
fels which navigate the fouth feas.
No difeafe feems peculiar to this country, but
Vol. I. E ^ * there
60 lA PÉROU8E*6 VOYAGE [l785.
there is one very common that I fliall not name,
which thofe who are fo fortunate as to efcapc often
Tive to a great age ; for at La Conception I met with
fcvcral who had attained an hundred years.
Notwithftanding fo many advantages, this colony
ÎS far from making the progrefs which might have
been expec^led from a fituation the mort favourable
to great population, but the influence of the go-
vernment is in conftant oppoiition to that of the
climate. The fyftem of prohibition exifts at Chili in
its fnlleft extent. This kingdom, of which the pro-
du<f^ions would, if increafed to their maximum, fup-
•p\y all Europe ; whofe wool would be fufficient for
the manufaé^ures of France and England, and
whofc he«ls, converted into fait provilion, would
prodtice a vaft revenue— -this kingdom, alas ! has no
commerce ! Four or five fmall veHèl^ bring every
year from Lima, tobacco, fugar, and fome articles of
European manufacture, which the miferauie inha-
bitants can obtain only at fécond or third hand,
after they have been charged with heavy cufloms
at Cadiz, at Lima, and laftly at their arrival at
ChiH ; in exchange they give their tallow, hides,
(bme deals, and their wheat, which, however, is at
fo Imv a price, that the cultivator has no induce-
- ment to exterid his tillage. Thus the balance of
trade is always againft Chili, which, with all its
gold * awJ articles of exchange, can fbarely pur-
cbalè fugars, tobacco, ll«fFs, linens, cambrics, and
even the hardwares necefîàry to the ordinary wants
of life.
Ftom this very eonciib defcription, it is evident,
that if Spain does not change her fyftipm ; if the
freedom of commerce is not permitted; if.thedu-
*i'!L^.ftrdm]fifto the accounts wliich hnve been tranimittcd toitif,
the gold which they procure annually in the archbilhoprick of
Cgficeptioi) cannot be eftimated at more than 200,000 piaiteis, A
plantjttion at St. Domingo affords a revenue ftiJJ as large.
■ ties
1785.] ROUND THE W011L9. 51
ties on fdrdgn manufaélures are not reduced : in
(hort, if they lofe fight of the political axiom, that
a \tty fm^l taxation, on an immenfe confumption,
is far more produ<5live to the treafury, than a duty
fo he&vy as to annihilate the confumption itfblf, the
kingdom of Chili will never attain that flourilhing
condition which its happy iituation appears to pro-
mise.
Unfortunately for this country it pit)duoe8 a fmall
quantity of gold, and the bedà of almoft all thfc rivers
are enriched with that metal. The inhabitant rtiay
gain half a dcHIar a day merely by waftiitig the foil ;
but, as provifions are extreme]^ abundant, want does
not excite him to labour. Deprived of all communi-
cation with 'fbreignersi he is e<)ually ignorant of our
arts and luxury, and can feel HO déiii?es for thfem,
fuffidently ftrong, to overcorne his inactivity. The
land, therefore, remains uncleiared, and the mofl ac-
tive are thofe who fpend a few hours in wafliing the
fartd of the river ; an occupation fo eafy, that It be-
coines unnecéflary for them to learn any trade. Thus
the houfes c^ the moft opulent are almoft deftitule
of furniture, and the only Workmen of La Concep-
tion are foreigners.
The drefs of the women conflfts in a plained pet-
ticoat, of thofe ancient gold and iilv^cr fluffs formerly
manuiaélured at Lyons. Thefe p)fctticoat$, which ate
referved for grand oocafions, are tmrtsferred, like
jewels, to the different individuals of a family, and
pafs from grand-nw)ther to grand-dbughter. Su€h
ornaments, however, are only within tlw; reach of fi
few, and tiie reft have fcarcely clothes to cover their
aakedneft. i^ i;î-. ./.^({i
It is the kikawfs, rather than the credulity or lU-
perftition, of the inhabitai^tSi which hais filled thi«
kingdom ^ith convents, b(&th for meft and ytuman.
The former tnjoy much more liberty tiian in «toy
other cùuutry t and thé misfortiiue of having* ùofûmjl^
E2 to
5a LÀ J»éR0USE*8 VOYAÔE [l785.
to do, of bctonging to no family, anà being con-
demned to celibacy, yet without fe|)aration from the
world, ot confinement to their cells. Unavoidably
renders them the word members of focicty in Ame-
rica. Their effrontery cannot be expreffed. I have
fcen them remain at a ball titl midnight, feparated,
-it is true, from the company, and placed among the
fervants. No one gave more exa(ft information to
our young people concerning places which priefls
(hould know, only to interdict them.
The inhabitants of La Conception are much ad-
dieted to theft, and the women are extremely com-
plaifant. They are, however, but a degenerate race,
mixed with Indians : yet the inhabitants of the firft
rank, the true Spaniards, are extremely polite and
obliging. I fhould be guilty of grofs ingratitude, if
I did not paint them in their true colours. I (hall
endeavour to do it, by relating the hiftory of our
vifit.
I had fcarcc anchored before the village of Talca-
guana, when a dragoon brought me a letter fromM.
Quexada, who was governor, ^ro temporff and aflured
me we Oiould be received as fellow countrymen;
adding, with the mod perfeél politenefs, that the or-
ders he bad received on this occafion, were exadly
in unifon with the fentiments of his heart, and of ail
the inhabitants of La Conception. This letter was I
accompanied with all kinds of refreihments, which
every one was anxious to prefcat us; but we could
not confume fo many objects, and we fcarcely knew
even where to place them;
ti; Being obliged to devote my fidl attention to the I
refitting of my fhip, and getting up our aftronomical
clocks and quadrants on fhore, I could npt iminc-
dialtely make my acknowledgments to the gover-
nor^ though I waited with impatience the moment I
içrhen I migh^ difcharge that duty. He, however,
pnevéntcd me by coming on board, attended by the
- . - principal!
I
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(716) 872-4503
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o^ç&éodhccolùny. :,lM^vimtd the vi^
ï^nkàhfMéà^ tm^ and fevei«|r
We wè|fftfi9çeded t^y a 40»
ring 4)uarteiv
•ùéMii, 9B well #i
i^||lie oummi^
# lMi>e ^m li
^M. Sabteto^a
l|i!^nd a<r night
^^ fi|ijmisip4i|adiiB»iif tb^
■^I0j^'' of . thfifc Indies; fill: irery diiFcrcnt
)0$i 1^; Wlpçb we h«d lipiifc!<|uaintçd. A
'^■-^mi^éÊÊmmi^hêM'éii^^md faiiened
:|%|ielim t1lç^wai|l| frtped ilocKingg of
fptol^LjM^,!? Ilbi%#at the to^^
i<M^;IÉ0#fii!i!imè;.lti*^^ made
ItMNMol^MjN €^ C^ili. Their
ler^éii4'f}lf^i4pdil|n^É9^ toupee»
I, which lyi^^own iHl^j%iNi^NM^ Their
icç3 a^ iiiUally of gt^ ç0 m^êf^tjmd are
with two manttllftô ^. «tekfi, i^ ftrft of
th^ ^afméh er 9w^rm^M vmci&m^ cloth
C0foiir8, m^^mm* W«i% or ro^ Thefc
rB^tiltiNt^ver the ImdêM the ladiei^^hen
In tNi».4NelS) and in ^d weather; hut
^ h(tH#§.they lay them inl|iek)^$> and tl^yi
|^fÉ»f^,# ^e manitilla; eoaïlamly f^hi^i^^ar
lApt$jp^e>r koce% in whii^^Miei of JU
...^^.^: — _2 — "«-^-^-acçifal^t.H^FhtfjiùsS'in je-;
J^]^«i&9^city in Europe wber© foi^elgi» na- :
^r» ¥r0|ila h^ received in a soioher So, engaging
illve»' . ' .' H ' •^f^/^.t:-- ^*'
iji^ll concluded about midn^ht, ^Mr» Saba-
nie not beii^ capable of accommodating j^l^
^^^' aiid pmeii^n, caéh irthabi^fÂ^*^^*^
ij^'çniwp^^.v.--'
64 LA Béaouftï's toyaoe [l785.
«fib-ed tîiem a bed, and wc were thus divided into
the different quarters of th'e city.
- Before dinner we had viiited the principal inhabi-
tants; and, in particular, the bifhop, who was a
man of intelligence, of amiable manners, and' that
exemplary charity fo frequent among the Spanifli
bifhops. He is a Creble of Peru, has never been in
Europe, and owes his elevation to his virtues. He
cxprefled to us the regret Mr. Higgins, a colonel of
horfe, would feel, from having been detained by the
Indians during our fbort ftay within his government.
The praifes every one beftowed on that officer, and
the general efteem for him, made me regret that cir-
cumilances prevented our feeing him. A courier,
however, was fent to him, and his anfvver, which
arrived before our departure, announced a ipeedy re-
turn ; for he had juft concluded a peace with the
Indians glorious to his adminiflration, and particu-
larly neceflbry to the people under his government,
whofe diftant dwellings are expofed ta the depreda-
tions of thefe favages, who mafikcre the men and
children, and carry the women into captivity.
The Indians of Chili are no louger tbofe ancient
Americans whoni the arms of Europeans infpired
with terror. The vaft multiplication of horfes fprcad
over the immcnfe deferts of America, and Jhat of
cattle and ibccp, which are alio extremely numerous,
have made Arabians of thefe people ; and we may,
in all refpe^s, compare them with the inhabitants of
the defarts of Arabia itfelf Conftantly on horfe-
back, to them journeys of 200 leagues are mere ex-
cui»lions. They travel with their flocks, feed on their
ftefh, their milk, and fometimes on their blood • ;
and they cover thrai&lves with their fkins, with
which they make cafques, cuirafîès, and fhiclds. Thus
has the introdaélion of two domellic animals
m
^ I have been aflùred, thçy fometimes. open the* veins of their
c^e and horfes, in order to drink their blood.
America,
1785.] ' BOUND THl WOtULD. 65
America, produced the moil ilrikin^ effi^(5t on tbe
manners of all its inh&bitantS) from St. Jage to tt^
ilreights of Magellan. They now no longer IbUow
any of their ancient cuilonw, no longer iecd on the
fame fruits, no longer wear the fame cloathing, and
have a much flronger refemblancc to the Tartars, or^
the inhabitants of the borders of the Red Sea than to
their own anccftors, who lived two centuries ago»
It is cafy to conceive how dangerous fucb neigh*
hours are to thé" Spaniards. How can they be pur-
fued in fuch long expeditions, or how prevented front
alîèmbling in a (ingle point, a nation fpread over a
conntry 400 leagues acrofs, and thus forming an ormy
of 30,000 men?
Mr. Higgins had the good fortune to gain the good
will of theie favages, and thereby rendered the moil
fignal fcrvice to the nation which bad adopted him ;
for he was a native of Ireland, defccnded from one o(
the families there who have been perfecUted on ac*
count of their religion, and ancient attachment to
the houfe of Stuart. 1 cannot deny myfelf the pfea*
fare of fpeaking of this loyal officer, whofe manners
are fo accordant with thofe of every nation. Like the
Indians I alfo granted him my entire coniidence aftc*
an hour's converfation. His letter was foon followed
by his return, and I waâ icarcely informed of it when
hie arrived at Talcaguana. Again I was anticipated,
for a colonel of cavalry is fooner monnted than a
French failor ; and Mr. Higgins, who was charged
with the defence of the country, was a man of al moll
nnequalled activity .' In {)olitenef9 and attention he
exceeded, if poffible, the M. Quexada. His kiftd*
ncfs appeared fo fincerc and engaging to all the
Frenchmen, that no expreiîions could convey out
lentiments of gratitude. As we were indebted to all
the inhabitants for their politcnefe, we refolvcd to
give them a gerkeral fate before our departure,
and to invite to it all the ladies of L» Concept
E 4 ■ tion.
5Û , LA piROUBB*ft VOTAOE [i7S5.
tiôn. A large tent was therefore pitched by the iide
of the fea, where we gave a dinner to 150 vifitors,
who had the complaifance to come nine miles to ac-
cept our invitation, which was followed by a ball,
fire-works, and a paper balloon, large enough to af-
afford them an intereiling fpe6lac1e.
^ The next day we made ufe of the fame tent to
give a great dinner to the crews of both our fhips,
when we all fat at the fame table ; M. de Langle and
myfelf at the head, and every officer, down to the
laft of the failors, placed according to their rank on
board. Our plates were wovoden platters, and gaiety
and pleafure fmiled in the countenances of all the
failors, who appeared more healthy, and a thoufand
times happier than on the day of our departure from
Brefl.
The Colonel of cavalry gave a fête in his turn,
and we all went to La Conception to attend it, ex-
cept the officers on duty. Mr. Higgins came to meet
us, and conducted our cavalcade to his houfe, where
a table was laid with 100 covers, to which all the
officers and inhabitants of diilinélion were, with fe-
veral ladies, invited. At each courfe a Francifcan
Jmprovifatore recited fbme verfes in celebration of the
union between the two nations. At night there was
a great ball, attended by all the ladies in their beft
dreflfes, and fbme officers in mafks performed a very
elegant ballet. It is impoffible to form a more
charming /^^^ in any part of the world. It was given
by a man whom the whole country adored, and to
foreigners who had the advantage of belonging to a
nation reputed the moft gallant in Europe.
But thefe pleafures and this good reception did not
induce me to lofe fight of my principal objed. I
announced, on the day of my arrival, that I fhould
fail on the 16th of March, and that fhould our vefTels
be refitted, and^our wood, water and proviiions be on
è^rd before tjjat time, every one fhould have liberty
.... ' . to
1785 J ROUND THE WOBLD. 67
to go and amufe himfelf on ihore. Nothing could be
better calculated to accelerate our work than this pro-
mife, of which however I dreaded the effete as much
OS the Tailors defired it ; becaufe wine is very abundant
in Chili, where every houfe fells it, and the wives of
the inhabitants are almoil as complaifant as thofe of
Otaheite; yet no irregularity caufed me to regret the
indulgence I had granted. .
During our ftay at Talcaguana, M. Dagelet re-
gularly made companions, to afcertain the rate of <
our time-keepers, with the refult of which we were
extremely well pleafed. , No. 19 had only loft Si"
per day upon the motion of the fun, fincc our de-
prture from France, which is a difference of but
half a fécond from its daily rate at Breft, and one
fécond from that at TenerifFe. The fmall time-
keepers, Nos. 25 and 29, had Varied fo much as not
to deferve our confidence. ^^
On the 1 5th, at day break, I made the fignal to
prepare for failing; but the wind than fettled in
the north, whereas, during our whole flay in this
road, it had been conftantly between fouth-fouth-
weft and fouth-weft. The breeze ufually came on
at ten in the morning, and ceafed at the fame hour ;
or earlier at night when it had begun earlier ; on
the contrary, it continued till midnight, if ii had
begun at noon ; fo that there were about twelve
hours of breeze and twelve hours of calm. This
rule conftantly prevailed till the 15 th, when the wind,
after an abfolute calm and exccffive heat, fettled
in the north. It blew very fre(h from that quarter,
with much rain during the nights of the 15th and
16th ; and on the 17th, about noon, a light breeze
fprung up from the S. W. with which I got under
fail, altho* it was very feeble, and only carried, us two
leagues out of the bay, where we remained in a dead
calm and a heavy fvvell, in confequence of the late
northerly winds. We were furrounded during the
whole
> >
» *
$6 LA PiROU»E'£ TOTAGE [l765v
whole night, by whales, vrliich came fo near our ihips
that they fpouted water on board. Yet not on inha-
bitant of Chili ever harpooned a fi(h ; for Nature has
laviihed {o many riches on this kingdom, that fc-
veral ages will elapfe before this branch of induiliy
will require to be cultivated.
SI, On the 1 Qth the fouth winds permitted me to fland
oft' from the (liore, when I ihapcd my courfe to the
eaflward of the iiktnd of Juan Fernandez, which I
did not make, becaufc its fituation has been fixed
according to the obfervations of Father FeuiUée at
La Conception,^ and it is impoiîîble there iliould be
an error of ten minutes in its longitude.
On the 23d we were in 30° 29' S. latitude, and
»5° 51' W. longitude by our time-krepery No. 19,
whofe rate iincc our departure from La Conception
was fo perfeâly exaél with that of No. 1 8, which
was on board M. dc Langlc's ihip, that their refults
did not differ two minutes of a degree till our arrival
at Eafter Ifland. In the cold clhiiates in the neigh-
bourhood of Cape Horn it was othcrwife, for it ap-
pears that the table of tempterature given to M.
Dagelet by M. Berthoud at Paris, was not correâ.
The difference was fo confiderablc, as to occafion an
error in the longitude, by No. 1 8, of more than s
degree, between the Strait of Lc Maire and our ar-
fival off the coail of Chili.
On the 2>4tb the wind fettled to the eaflward, and
did not vary five degrees till we were about 120
leagues from Eafter liland. On the 3d of April, in
27® 5' S. lat. and 101*^ W. long, we bad the wind
from N. K to N. W. and we faw the only birds we
had met with ikiœ we pafled the ifland ot Juan Fer-
nandez, except one or two tailk-vents, that we bad
&en in a run of Ô0O leagues. This frequent change
of wind is the mofl certain lign of land, though nar
tuealitts pei-haps will find it diâBcult to explain how
the ioiâuence of a, ûasiii ifland in fo immenfe a fea
. . ' fhould
17S$.] ROUND TBS WORLD. 9A
(hotild extend to 100 le^mies. Nor is it enough lor
a navigator to prefumc that he is that diftance from
81) ifland, becaufe nothing points out to him in what
point of the compafs he may fall in with it. The
iireélion of the flight of birds after fun^fet afforded
me no information ; and I am fully convinced, that
in all their motions they have no other objeél than
the pnrfuit of pi-ey. I have at dufk obfcrvcd fea-
brrds dire<^ their flight towards ten. different points
of the horizon ; and I am of opinion that from fuch
an appearance the mod enthuiiaftic augurs would not
have ventured to diaw any conclufion.
On the 4th of April I was only 6o leagues from
Eafler Ifland, when I faw no birds, and the wind was
N. N. Ë. and it is probable that had I not known the
cxaâ iltuation of the ifland, I (hould have imagined
I had paiïëd it, and ihould therefore have put about.
Bat I made thefe refieétions at the time, and ! muft
acknowledge that the diicovery of iilands is to be
attributed to chance, and that very often the acuteft
calculations from theory have only mifled fuccecding
navigators.
On the 8th of April, at two in the afternoon, I
made Eafier Ifland, bearing W. 5^ S. diftant twelve
leagues. The fea was then very high, and the winds
northerly ; it had been fhifting chiring the laft four
days, and had veered round from N. to S. by the
W. I am of opinion that this variation was not oc-
cafioned folely by the proximity of a fmall ifland,
nor is it probable the trade winds are confiant in this
fealbn in the 23d degree. The point I perceived was
' that to the eaft ward. I was thca precifely in the fame
place where Capt. DÀvis, in 1 686, had fellew in with
an iltand of fand, and twelve leagues further to the
weftward, a land which Captain Cook and Captain
Dalrymple took for Eafler Ifland, and which was again
found in 1722 by Roggewin. But thefe two fea-
men, though very well inforrafid^ did not fuliicjcntly
attend
i
60 LA rÂBOU8K*8 TOYAO£ [l785.
attend to the account of Waffer, who fays, (Rouen
edit. p. 300) '' That Captain Davis, departing from
GallapagoSy with an intention of returning to Eu-
rope by Cape Horn, and of only putting into the
ifland of Juan Fernandez, experienced in 12® S.
lat. a terrible (hock, and thought he had touched
upon a rock ; he had then conûantly direéled his
courfe to the fouthward, and reckoned he was 15o
leagues from the continent of America ; but he af-
terwards learnt that at the fame moment an earth-
quake took place at Lima.
*' Having recovered from his al^rm he continued to
run S. S. by E. and S. W, as far as IT 20', and, he
fays, that at two in the morning they heard a-head
the noife of a fea breaking on the ihore. He lay-to
till day, when he faw a fmall ifland of fand, which
was not furrounded by any rocks. He approached
it within a quarter of a mile, and perceived, fur-
ther on, bearing 12 leagues to the well ward, a great
land, which he took for a group of iflands, on aC'
count of the intervals between the diiFerent capes.
Davis did not fui-vey it, but continued his courfe
towards the ifland of Juan Fernandez." But Waf-
fer fays, that this little ifland of fand is 500 leagues
fmm Copiapo, and 600 from Gallapagos ; but it has
not been fufficiently obferved, that this refult is im-
poflible. If Davis, in 12^ S. lat. and 150 leagues from
the coail of America, had made a due S. S. E. courfe,
as Waffer relates; as it is evident this buccaneer
captain mud have fleered with the eafterly winds fo
frequent in thefe feas, in order to perform his inten-
tion of going to Juan Fernandez, we muft conclude
with M. Pingre, that there is an error in the figures
of the quotation of Dampier, and that the land feen
by Davis, in lieu of being 500, is only 200 leagues
from Copiapo. It would then be prqbable that the
two iflands of Davis are thofe of St. Ambrofe and St.
Felix, which are a little more to the northward than
• • Co-
«
«
«
M
li
«
I ^
1785.] KOUND THE WOkLOr. : 6l
Cdpiapo'. But the buccaneer pilots were r H fô mi-
nute, and feldom took the'latitude within 30 or 40
minutes. I (hould have fpared my readers this g;eO'>
graphical diflcrtation, had I hot to oppoTe the opi-
nions of two. juilly celebrated Teamen. I ought,
however, to obferve, that Captain Cook was in doubt,
and declared he would have decided the queilion,
had he had time to get into a higher latitude to the
eailward of Eaûer ifland. As I ran down 300 leagues
on that parallel, without feeing the ifland of fand,
1 am of opinion, no doubt ought to remain ; and the
problem appears to me completely folved •.
During
• While I adopt the folution of this problem riven by La Pé-
roufe, I ought to give a complete view of the proo^ refultmg from
the journals of other navigators.
It evidently appears, as Pingre, Cook, and La Péroufe obferve,
that there is an error in the figures of Dampier, and that the pre-
tended land of Davis can be only sôo leagues from the coaft of
America.
I agree with. La Péroufe, that the methods of computing the lon-
gitudes were fb erroneous in the time of Davis, that we can only
rely on the latitudes. Thus it is by the account of Waffer, that we
may delineate the track of Davis at his departure from the Galla-
pages Iflaods, at which time be ûeered fouthward, as far as the
twelfth degree of S. lat. whCtr lie experienced a terrible (hock, &c.
He had cbnijtantly fleered fon^nward, and reckonied that he was 150
leagues frbrti the continent bf ÂÏB«rica. ' "";"
Inobfervii\gëu the chart the ftiip's pilacethusdefcribed, we fliall find
that he was nearhr ip the 87th degree of W. long. He continued kis
coiirfe fouthwtit'd, S. bv E. arid'S. W. as far as the land difcovered
in zf 20' S. lat By t^us folloWihg tke track of Davis, it appean
he muft have been about abo league» fiom Copiapo, 600 from the
Gallapagos, and i* to the S. E; or the' S. point of the fhuation in
which the, inlands of St. Felix aiyd St. Ambrofe are laid down in the
French ma|js. Itnîayeafily therefore be perceived, that the great
landfeen by Davis r2 leagues to the fûuthward,'muft be that of the
iilandstif St.Felix ahd St. Ambrofe, and thatUie ifland'of fand mufl-
be à few leagues to the eadward of thefe iltands.
In order to eftablifli this; let us r<;view the fituktton pointed out
for the pretended land of Dav'is, and fot* the illands St. Felix and
St. Ambrofe, as well as the journals o^ 'ibe dîfferehr navigators. '
The Ehpliih maps place tl^efi?- iflartds firfr5oS^iat; the French
in 25", and thofe of Green from 26» ao' to 87».* •• ^ ■ • *
..l-t-^iî -,-,■_ -^ :,•,■,:.-■■,,,■ ; Cook
■/*,
61 LA ri&OU8B*S T0TA9E [l785.
During the night of the 8th of ApHl, I coailed
Eafter Iflasid, at three leagues di (lance. The wea»
ther was clear, and the wind had veered round
from North to S. E. in Icfs than three hours. At
day-break I (leered for Cook's Bay, which is the
moft fheltered from the winds between N. and S. by
the Eail, in the whole ifland. It is only open to
the Weft winds, and the weather was fo fine thit
I had hopes they woiild not blow for feveral days.
At eleven o'clock I was not above a league from the
anchorage. The Aftrolabe had already dropped
anchor, and I did the fame very near her : but the
water deepened fo rapidly, that the anchors of both
Cook agrees that he miiTed the true latitude of thefe idondj,
rather in confequence of havins relied on the table of latitude»
and longitudes, in RobertfonV Elements of Navigation, tbau
on Or ' ' ' "' ' ' '^ i^ 1 J Î .t
hood I
and 31, ^ ,
St. Felix'and St. Annbr«(é, which muft exift in the 27th degree,
and of which he perceived feme ûgiis»
^f Xa Pcroufe, when coming from the edlvt^ard, and running down
)oo leagues on the parallel of Ëafter ifland, could not fee either
the land of Davis, which did not exift, or the iflands of St. Felix
and St. Ambrofe, whofe longitude is bçtv^een 26 and 27 degrees to
the eaûward of that ifland. It is therefore evident^ 9$ Cfaptaiii&
Cook and Dalryinple thought, that llafitr ifland, which was founil
again by Roggewem in i722,,d9not bç the land of Davis. .
It is alfp evident, that t(ie Iflandi. of St. Felix and St. Ambrofe,
cannot exifi in the fituation laid down in the £B^li|h noaps : for
as Cook remarks, Davis would then have fallen m with tnem ia
his track. And it i» evident, that the Iflands of iSt. Felix and St.
Ambrofe cannot exifl ia the fituation laid down in the French
maps, in conformity with that defcribed by Rebertfbn ; for thea
Capt. Cook would have feen them. ^
It appears then aknoft «demondirative, that the land of Davis
does not.exifl, but that there aie^ Iflands in the 27th degree of S.
latitude, about 9fi6 leàsues from Copiopo, which «rf no other
than the Iflands of St. FeHx and St. Ambrofe, kid flown erroae-
«uflv in all die maps; and that thcfe Iflands are. the pretended
landof Davisk Such^ at. leaA, is tny opinion, after acomparifpn
of the journal pf tlic dii&oçnt davigators. It is alfo the opinion
of a ipodern navigat^c, . |f^|i{|h eâàauû)»n,, î„ M. Bougain-
:ioo'> - . * «lips
- (
1785.1 lOUilft TRB WORtd. (A
(hips came home. Thus wc were obliged to purchafe
again, and make two boards to regtiin the anchorage.
This contrariety did not abate the ardour of Uie
Indians who fwam afler us to a league off (hore^
god came on board with a laughing carelefs air,
which gave ine the bed opinion of their cbaraiSier.
Men of a more fufpicious turn would have feared,
when we got under fail again, that we were carrying
them off from their native foil. But the idea of fuch
pcrfidv did not fccm to prcfcnt itfelf to their mindh.
NuKcdand unarmed, in the midft of U8, a (impie
(Iring round their middle fupportcd a bundle o£
herbs that hung down before. Mr. Hodges, the
painter who accompanied Capt. Cook in his fccbnd
voyage, hflfi fuccceded very ill in pourtniying their
phyfiognomy, which is generally agreeable and tx^
trciBcly various ; and has not, like that of the Mar
lays, Chincfe, and inhabitants of Chili, a general
charaéler that is peculiar to themfelves.
I made fcvei-al |>refent8to thefe Indians, who pre •
fen^ pieces of pointed cloth, half an ell long, tx>
naib, knives, and beads. Even thefe yielded to
their fironger inelinution for hats, of which how^-
cver wc had too fmaU a quantity to give tcf many df
them. At eight in the evening I took leave of iny
new guefts, giving them to widcrltand by figns,
that at day- break I fhould go ailiore. They then
went dancing into their boat, and threw themfelves
into the, fea, two muâcet (hots from the fhore, on
which the billows broke with confiderablc forcq.'
They had taken the precaution of making liulc
packets of my prefents, and every one placed tbofe
which belonged to him on his head/ to fccure them
from the \vat^r.
CITAP.
ûé
LA PJ&R0U8E*S VOYAGB
CHAR IV.
ri785.
DESCRIPTION OF RASTEjt ISLAND — 'INCÎDENtS AND
EVENTS WHICH TOOK PLACE THERE MANNE88
AND CUSTOMS OF THE INHABITANTS.
COOK*s Bay, in Eafter Ifland, is fituated in
27" iV S. lat. and 111'» 51^ 30" W. Ion. and
is the only anchorage that is (heltered from the
S. E. and E. windà, which ufually blow in thefe
leas. With weflerly winds it is very dangerous : but
from that quarter, however, the wind never blows, till
it has veered round by the Eaft to N. E., to the N.
and from thence to the Weft. There is fufficient
time, therefore, to get under way ; and, at three quar-
ters of a mile in the ofRng, no danger is to be feared.
This Bay is eaiily known. For after doubling the
two rocks off the fouth point of the Idand, and run-
ning along fhore at the diftance of a mile, a fmall
Creek may be perceived, which is the moft certain
land mark. When this creek bears E. by S. and the
two rocks abovementioncd are {htit in with the point,
there is anchorage in twenty fathoms water over a
bottom of fand, at three quarters of a mile from the
fhore. Further in the offing there is no bottom but
in thirty- five or forty fathortis, and the depth of the
water encreafes Co rapidly that the anchor does not
hold. The landing is eafy at the foot of one of the
fîatues, of which I fhall prelently fpeak.
At day-break I ordered every thing to be made
ready for us to go on fhore, where I had reafon to
expert I fhould meet with friends, as I had loaded
with prefents thofe who had come on boarc^ the pre-
ceding evening. I was too well acquainted with
the accounts of the different navigators, to be igno-
rant that the Indians are but grown up children,
whofe délires the light of our property would fo
'> . u. . . . ilrongly
•■•I. , ».
1785.] ROUND THE WOtlLD. 63
ftrongly excite, that they would take every pollible
method to get poflfeffion of them. I was therefore
convinced that I mull reftrain them by fear, and
gave orders that this expedition fhould be accom-
panied with a little warlike train. We put this in
execution, with four boats and twelve armed fol-
diers. M, de Langle and myfelf were followed by
all the paiïèngers and officers, except thofe who
were neceflary to carry on the duty on board our (hips.
Thus we formed a body of about feventy perfons,
including the crews of our boats.
Four or five hundred Indians waited for us on the
ihore. They were unarmed, and feveral of them
covered with pieces of white and yellow ftufF; but
the greater number were naked, feveral were tat-
tooed, and their faces painted red. Their cries and
their phyfiognomy equally exprefibd their joy, "as
they advanced to give us their hands and afllfl us in
landing.
This part of the Illand has an elevation of about
twenty feet, and the mountains are about feven or
eight hundred toifes from the fea, to which the foil
has a gentle declivity from the bafes. This interval
is covered with a kind of herb, which I believe to be
fit for pafturage. It grows on the furface of large
ftones, that lie loofe upon the earth, and appear
precifely limilar to thofe of the Ifle of France, called
in the country giraumoru, becaufe they are in general
of the fize of that fruit. Thefe very ftones, which
were fo inconvenient to us in walking, are a very
valuable prefent from nature. They keep the earth
cool and moift, and fupply the place of that falutary
Ihade which the inhabitants have imprudently ba-
niftied by felHng their trees. This praétice, which
has expofed their foil to be burnt up by the fun,
and precluded the exiftence of floods, rivulets, or
fpriugs, muft have taken place in very remote pe-
riods. The iflanders were ignorant, that in the
Vol. I. F fmall
69 tA RépOÏTSÊ'S VGYAGB: [l7B5.
^aîl iflandsof fuch an immenfe ocean, the cooU
Hiêfs •of a iiiml coveit;d with trees can alone detain
and condcwife clouds, and thus fceep up an almoft
<30«tinïial rài"!! upon the mountains, which may
^read on every (ide into fprings and rimlets. Iflands
flopriVtd of this àdvantî^e, ftre fubjeéi to a honid
: "di^oU^ht, which gfachialiy deftroys the plants aiid
#irttb^y and relators the land almoft uninhabitable.
M. de Langfe and myfelf did not doubt that this;
^" pe©pie owed their unfoit«nûte iituation, in this rc-
' fpeél, to the imprudence of their anceftoi-s ; and it
w probable^ thnt other Iflands of the South Sea arc
only watered, becaufe fortunately they have inaccef-
' fible mountains, where it has been impoflible to cut
wood. Thus has nature veiied her greater liberality
to the latter behind the cloîtk of avarice, and by
concealing her exuberance in reccfles which it wa?
«mt of their power ta invade. A long Hay in the
Ifle of France, which bears fo flrong a refemblance
to Eafter Ifland, has tm»ght me that the trees never
ftioot again> uhlefs fheltered from the fea breezes
l)y other trees or by Walls. And it was the know-
ledge «f this circnmftnnCe that explained to mc the
eaiife of the deX'al'tirtion of Eafter Ifland, whole in-
habitants have much Icfs caufe of complaint from
the eruptions ot' their volcanos, which have long
1?>een extinguiflicd, tlian from their own imprudence.
But as man accommodat'es binafelf to every ^tuation^
with Bioi'e t;nfe than any other anitnal, thefe iflandefs
j^ppeared left unfortunate to me than they did to
Cai>t. Cook and Mr. Forfter, who arrived there after
». long tedious voya^, eat up with fcur\^, and in
want of every tlirng. I'hey found neither wood,
water, nor pigs : a few tbwh, bananas, and pota-
toes can, in fnch circumftanœs, afford bnt poor
Ajpplfcs. Accordingly their ae/:ouM8 bear iItc mafi'ks
of their more lanpleafant Iituation. Otfrs was in-
" ' ' . iinitely more happy. Our cre^ €i^oy«d> porfei^
****wi .-''*■- ..,.,..... ■ -^ ^ -health;
17 $50 ÏIOUND THE WORLD. 6/
health ; we had taken on board m Chili whatever
neceliàries we wanted for feveral months ; and all
we dciired of the inhabitants, was to afford us an
opportunity of conferring benefits. We brought / >
them- goats, (heep, and pigs; and we had feeds of
oranges, lemons, cotton, maize, and in general every
ipecies of pUnts moft likely to thrive upon their
loil.
Our firft Care, when we landed, was to form d , . .
ring of armed foldiers, enjoining the inhabitants to
leave this fpace void. Then pitching a tent, I had
the prefents intended for them, and the different
I'pecies of animals to be left, brought on fhore. But
as I hyl exprefsly forbidden the foldiers to fire, or
even with the butt end of their mulkets, to keep oflf '
the Indians who might be troublefome, the foldiers
therrifelvcs were foon expofed to the rapacity of tlïolè
iflanders, vvhofe numbers rapidly encreafed. They
amounted at the leafl: to 800, out of whom full 150
were women. The phyfiognomy of many among
the latter were agreeable, and they offered their
tàvors to thofe who were willing to give them pre-
fents. The men endeavoured to induce us to com-
ply, and while tli^ women lavifhed their careflcs on
us, took our hats from our heads, and our hanA-
kercbiefg from our pockets. They all fcemed to
be accomplices in thefe thefts, for they had fcarcely
comiuitted them, when they all took to flight at the
iiime inftant, like a covey of birds. But observing
that we made no ufe of our mulkets, they returned ,
a few minutés; afterwards, renewed their carefies,
ai\d watched a favourable moment to commit new ■
thefts. Thefe manoeuvres continued all the morn-
ing : and as we were to leave them at night, and fo .
Ihort a fpace of time did not admit of our giving->^*x'..-'
them much inftru6lion, wc only amufcd ourfdves ;
with obferving the artifices thèfe iflanders employed •,
to rob us. In order to remove every pretext for any
F 2 kind
7
08 LA pérouse's voyage [1785,
kind of force, which might have produced unfor-
tunate confequences, I declared that I would replace
the hats that might be taken from the foldiers and
failors. Thefe Indians were unarmed. Only three
or four, among fo great a number, had a kind of
wooden club, not in the lead formidable. Some
of them appeared to have a flight authority over
the others, and taking them for Chiefs I diftributed
Tome medals among them, which 1 hung about
their necks with a chain. But I foon difcovered
that thcfe were in fad the very men who were the
moil notorious thieves ; and although they feemed
to purfue thofe who dole our handkerchieft, it was
eafy to perceive they were fully determined not to
overtake them.
^ Having but eight or ten hours to remain upon the
ifland, . and being deiirous not to lofe that interval
of time, I confided the care of our tent, and of all
our efFe6ts, to M. d'Efcures, my firft lieutenant, to
whom I alfo gave the command of all the foldiers
and failors on Ihore. We then divided ourfelves into
two parties, of which the iirft, under the orders of
M. de Langle, was to penetrate as far as poffible
into the heart of the Ifland, to fow the grain in fuch
fpots as fliould appear bed adapted to their culti-
vation ; and to examine the nature of the foil,
plants, agriculture, population, monuments, and in
general every thing interefling among this very ex-
traordinary people. Thofe who were able to go
over a great extent of ground, joined his party, and
he was accompanied by Meflrs. Dagelet, Lamanon,
Duché, Dufrefne, Marti nière, Father Receveur,
M. Abbé Mongès, and the Gardener. The fécond
party, of which I made one, vilited the mortuments,
the platforms, and the houfes and plantations, within
a league around our quarters. The drawing of thefe
monuments^ given by Mr. Hodges, prefents but a
feeble idea of the objects we faw. Mr. Forfier
thinks
I785.J » ROUND THE WORLD. ÔÇ •
things they are the work of a people much more
conficlerable than the prefent inhabitants of thc/
ifland ; but his opinion appears to me unfounded*
The largeft of the clumfy bufts on thefe platforms^
or that we meafured, is only fourteen feet fix inches
high, feven feet fix inches broad acrofs the (boulders,
three feet thick in the belly, and fix feet broad and
five feet thick at thebafe. Thefe bufts, I fay, may
he the work of the prefent race, whofe population I
believe, may, without exaggerating, be eftimated atr
2000. The number of women appeared nearly
equal to that of the men, and I faw as great a num-
ber of children as in any other country. For though
in about 1200 inhabitants, whom our arrival had
drawn together round the Bay, there were not more
^lan 300 women, I (hould from thence only con-
jeélure, that although the men came from the ex-
tremity of the ifiand to fee our fhips, the women,
either becaufe more delicate, or more occupied with
their children and families, were left at home ; and
wc only faw thofe who inhabited the environs of
the Bay. This opinion is confirmed by the account
of M. de Langle, who found, in the interior of the
ifland, a great number of women and children ;
and we all explored the caverns where Mr. Forfter
and fome of Capt. Cook's officers thought the
women might be concealed. Thefe are fubterraneous
dwellings, of the fame form with thofe I fliall here-
after defcribe, where we found fmall faggots, of
which the largeft pieces were not five feet long, and
did not exceed fix inches in circumference. We can-
not, however, difpute that the inhabitants had con-,
cealed their wives when Capt. Cook vifited them
in 1772, but I could not difcover their motive ; and
it is perhaps to the kindnefs with which thofe navi-
gators condudled themfelves towards this people,
that we owe the confidence they feemed to place in
F 3 us,
Î
|8
118, ttndlby which wp were enibkU to :juid|^ 1i||ié^
of their pOpoUriiotii i ndt ' " • * >
. All tlitt motiamcitits now raniaià|i^i^ Ind 4|jr il)«dkf
M. Dudi^ bat givieti «ttekaâ^ di«Àra^>#^v^
aiieioiii,^i4 are placoti io a J;#id ^^^Àvi^dv br ii^4'
lire to p»i^vtt'% -.^^û&n- >- . ^- ^ ^
ofthe côid&l mpH
hav« here ^i^tuM
the ihapeof a
\rhiieiied with ÎÎ
Vfhhh aire only an
ed 01» the fea-fhorei :attâ Mb
to tts fcy laying hittifi#^^*bi'if'^;
objeâ: of t^cfe heapfe
hisihûftds towards HcâVÇH^^-
belief in a future exiftencew *
tt» adapt Inch an Gptfii0fi^;^iûid[|^ tiii
thciw far from pofleffir^ tSai
fervcd them repeat thé (Êii
M. de Langle, who traveHèd hi
the country, having rep04rt©d?Jiie ^p^ fltç^'l''^
now no doubt on tlje Ailj^é4â,)and t^^fe^ afl
officers and paflèngers entôjl^MÉ' a
Yet we faw no trace of any iyKj|lÈlUS'M'Ojïi^
them ; for Ido not think tfeèir Tfelàt i^w^ <^tf.
taken for idols, notwithfta<i<^>g the ^Indians «il
have fhewn for them a fji^i^^pf ^fièrâtion. ■ 11^
colbflàl bufts, of which J ^^^IltàMljf given the
meniions, and which fd^dently provéthe little |^
greft^|^<^y<havrtiàde in fcmlptiire, are ^put ou| of a
volcslM^reciiJÉiion known atodfig>nat^i'alif)6 ^ the
ïimmmMp^* a iloïie '%^%ift wii^' friabl&^lîèà
iewirir Captain Cook's offictw rhâMé 3^|»dffit 'if
ratght be a faditious fubftanco cotopofe^ of ihortar
/ ib^ufate<it
ii«i^
m^
t*Sç«»^
N^'
a'
^. ■/?.
4
iiiiiiiiiip
Pi,i
I k
' l! 'Il
j'YI' Mil
w
~^J^m
î^s
^^^m
,. ; ■: . ^
. ,^-««^./
r»^<
I^^^^^H^^^^BPw'
m
V
■■*%
îndurflted'bj
^ how they
«weight wi
tiowev^ ceri
ftone, and tl
Jong, and flu
very wolj Ci
much great
hundred mei
not be rqon
the marvello
which is upt
fon to believ
jfland it ig bt
be king ovei
live on yaiT)
and thefe I
witr, bee^pfp
of^chiçfin^
I cap only
thefe people
and whoro I
hpwçver, by
Jiave gone bç
jïCQUâiiiiJed,
pcjirççly t
mA I i\m pei
eknt tQ pi
)-fîar. Sycb
life has led
eaith are in
fjert^in their
village or a <
whjeii \y4S n
in himidth.,
* T^iisbayfe
pot have Jjçttp iç
-^ 1
*s
jndurflted' hy the qi? , ït only remains to b^ fa^plwQ-
^ how they havt bq^p ^^le to r^iCç fg Ç0«6deççkb\c
* weight without the «id of p^achinee. We wç^e
iowev^ certnin they wçr^ of ^ very light; v<?lc^nic
ilone, «nd thî^t by mean» ^fiev^a fivQ w (ix ^«^tlnQms
Jong, and Aiding iloBes uqdwnciitb, us CaptiiiQ Çopjc
very wolj CKpIains, they might be aW^ tq r«^i(<? -a
much greater weight-: aii <)pergtion for whiç^ an
hundred men wowld bç fufiiçicnt, and there wowW
not he room hr a greater number to a^. Tfaiis
the marvellotts djfappeftrs, «àturç r^ega^ns h^y lapilli,
which is not the prochu^^pn of 9rt, and there is re«-
fon to believe thî^t \( no new monuments ador»\ tj^e
iiland it ie boeayf^ tl^r^ ^1 conditions ar^ eqvi^I ,• tp
be king over a people wfjip are alnioil naked and
live on yarn? and potataos, excitçs little jealoyfy ;
find thefe Indians, never having any oçcftfion fei*
mr, beeaufei they have no iieighbovr^j ha^'^î no need
of a chiçf Invpfted with any coniiderabio a^thoi-ity.
I ca|i only hazar^l eonjeé^wres on the manners of
thefe pçople, Y'hofp language I do not ynderftand,
3od whom I bflvp (^cnhiii for a day, I \va§ affii^^d,
hpwçver, by the ejtpcricnce q{ othar navigatoi's who
Ibavegone bçf^M'p, wjtli whofe «iccounts I am j^rfv^^ljy
ftCQuainted, and to thefç Ï adtied my own reflc^^tions.
Scarcçly the teflth part of thiC i^^nd is çqltJViVtc^l,
mA I am perfqaded thftt three d.ays labpur js (i]i}\-
fieat to procure the M\^^ iuhi]i\mç^ for a
ypar. Sych facility in pr^vidipg for the want$ pf
lifii has led mP to beU<?vç the productions of the
earth are in common, particularly .as 1 am almpft
«certain their hoUf^^ ai-e commoft, at leaft to a whole
village or a djCtfié^. I ifl^af^r^d one of thpf^ hpjuf^s
whieh \ya6 near us* ; it ^as 3DP feet i;i length, èO
in J3r^»a4tii, ft94 in th? m^Ah ten in h^ght^ Jits
fctt'm wfts that of ;^ çflfto^ invertçda and thfife w^s no
* T^iis tiaiife was not yet fijiiflied, {€( that Captain Cook could
cot have Ipirfl Hf ,
F 4 entrance
7î LA péROOSB's VOYAGE [l785.
entrance except by creeping on the hands through
two doors, both lefs than two feet high. This
houfe, which would contain more than two hun-
dred peribns, could not be the refidcnce of the chief,
for there was no furniture, and fo great a fpace would
have been ufelefs to him ; with two or three other
houfes not far diftant, it therefore forms a village.
There is probably in every diftric'ît a chief who
particularly fupcrintends the plantations, of which
Captain Cook imagined he was the proprietor. But
if that celebrated traveller found fome difficulty in
procuring a fufficient quantity of potatoes and yams,
it muft be attributed not fo much to a fcarcity of
thofe vegetables, as to the neceffity of obtaining an
almofl: general confent for their fale.
I cannot venture to fay whether the women are
common to a diflridl, and the children to the repub-
lic, but it is certain that no individual of the Indians
appeared to have over any one women the authority
of a hulband. If, however, they are individual pro-
perty, their mailers are very prodigal of their rights.
Some of their dwellings are, as I have already ob-
ferved, fubtcrraneous, but as a proof that there are
marfhy places in the interior of the ifland, others
are conftru6led of rufhes, very neatly arranged,
which afford a perfed fhelter from the rain. The
building refts on a bafe of hewn ftone*, 18 inches
thick, in which they have bored holes at equal dif-
tances to admit poles which bending archwife, form
the roof, the fpaccs of which are filled up with a
thatch of reeds.
• '• The identity of thefe people with the other iflan-
ders of the South Sea, as Captain Cook obferves,
cannot be doubted, for their language and national
phyfiognomy are the fame, their manufaélurés alfô,
made from the bark of the mulberry, though thefe
trees are very rare, having been deftroyed by the
* Thefe (lones are not granite, but folid lava.
* ■ droughts.
î785.] ROUND THE WORLD. 73
droughts. Such as have fiirvived are only three
feet high, and thefe they have even been obliged
to encompafs with walls to fecure them from the
winds : it is remarkable that the height of thefc
trees never exceeded that of the walls by which
they arc fhcltercd.
I do not doubt that in former periods of time
thefc iflanders have enjoyed the fame produdlions
as the Society Iflands. But the fruit trees mufl:
have pcrifhcd by the droughts, as well as the pigs and
dogs to whom water is inoifpenfably nccefliiry, while
man, who at Hudfon's Bay makes whale oil his be-:
veragc, can accuftom himfelf to any thing, and I
have feen the natives of Eafter Ifland drink fea-water
like the albatrofs of Cape Horn. We were there ia
the wet feafon, and finding a little brackifh water in
fome hollows on the fea-fliore, they offered it to m
in gourds : but it was rejeded by the moft thirfty
of our crew. I do not flatter myfclf that the pig»
which I prefcnted them will multiply ; but I hope
that the goats and fheep which drink little and love
fait, will fuccecd there.
At one iri the afternoon I came back to the tent
deiigning to return on board, that M. de Clonard,
my fécond Captain, might go on fhore in his turn. I
found almoft all my people without hats or handr
kerchiefs ; for our gentlenefs had encouraged thefc
plunderers, nor was I at all diftinguifhed from the
reft. An Indian who had afîîfted me in defcending
from a platform, took away tny hat, and as foon as
he had rendered me this fervice, ran off at full fpccd,
followed as ufual by all the reft. I did not how-
ever caufe him to be purfued, for being nearly
ail in the fame ftate, I would not alone enjoy the pri-
vilege of being fheltered from the fun, and therefore
continued examining the platform ; a monument
which has given me the higheft opinion of the ta-
lents thefe people once poiiefied for building, for
^ ' ' ■ here
rVSai
^■tr
,r
fi LA pinOTTSE's VOTAOR [l785.
here the pompous word architcdlurc cannot be ap.
j)licd. They (com never to have been acqiminted
%i ith any kind of cement, hut they cut and (hnprd
their Itones with perfect accuracy, placing and join-
inp[ them accordiiijç to the rules of art.
I have colleélcd a few famplc« of thefc ilones,
which ure lavas of various denfitics. The lip^htcfl,
and which uiuft confcqucntly be the firft dccoin-
pofed, forms the face towards the land ; that turned
to the fca is conftruéW of a lava infinitely more
rompaét, and 1 know not any inftrumcnt or fub-
(lance which thefe iflandcrs pofiels, hard enough to
tut thefe lad ; a longer ftay on the ifland might havR
sffordcd fome light upon the fubject. At two o'clock
I returned on bojird, and M. do Clonard went oa
thore. Soon after\vards two officers of the Alb'olabc
iarrivcd to inform me, that the Indians ha<l jiill coni-
imitted a robbery, which had occafioned a ronliclcr-
able contert. Some divers had cut the grapnel rope
of the Aftrolabc's boat under water, and carried off
her grapnel, which we did not perceive till the robbers
had got a coiifiderable way into the interior of the
ifland. As this anchor was ne>ceflary to hs, a couple
of officei*», with fcveral ibldies, purfucd them, but
were foon overwhelmed with a fhowcr of floncs.
A mufquet fired in the air without fhot produced
no effeét, and they were at lall obliged to fire a
charge of fmall fhot, fome of which, doubtlel's,
touched one of the Indians, for the throwing of
■fiones then cealed, and our officers were able to gain
the tent in tranquillity ; but it was impoliiblc to over-
take the Indians, who mufl have been aftoniflicd at
our patience, which ali their infults had not been fuf-
iicient to fubdue. ^
They foon, however, returned aroTjnd our quar-
ters, and again offering us their women, we becawe
as good friend'^ as at our firft interwiew. At length,
lÊ>y iîx in the cvcaing, every thing was got on board»
the
. .. . \
1785.] HOUND THB WORLD. 74
the cnnocs returned on (hore, and I made the fîgna)
to prq)nrc to weigh. Before 3vc got under fail, M,
dc Langlc gave me an account of hisexcurfion intotho
interior of the illand, which I (hall relate in the follow-,
ing chapter. He had fowii feeds through all hi'' route,
and (hewn thcfe iflanders every mark of his extrrme
benevolence; yet, I think I ftinll complete lL * portrait
of their character, when I relate, that a kindof rhief,
to whom M. dc Langlc had prefented a male and
female goat, received them with one hand, while,
with the other, he dole his handkerchief.
Doubtlcfs thcfe people have not the fame notions
of theft vvith us. Probably among them no difgraec
is attached to it. But they arc well apprifrd of the
injuiliec ihey commit, for they inflantly fly, to elcapo
the puniihmcnt which they evidently exjjcét, and
which, had we continued on the ifland, we fliould
not have failed to infli(':i in proportion to the offence.
For our our extreme lenity had, in the end, produced
the mod difagreeable confequences.
No one who has read the accounts of modern na-
vigators, can miilake the Indians of the South Sea
for favagcs. On the contrary, they have nuule very
çonfiderablc progrefs in civilization ; and, I believe,
are as highly corrupted as poliiblc, under all the cir-
cumftances of their fituation. This opinion is not
founded on the various thefts they committed, but
on the mani]cr in which thofe thefts were perpetrated.
The moft hardened, unblufliing villains of Europe
are not fuch hypocrites as thcfe iflanders, who earefs
only to conceal fi'aud, and whofe countenance ex-
prelfes not one fentimeiit of the heart. For the In-
dian who had jull received a prefcnt, and appeared
the mofl: eager to render us a thoufand fcrviees, was,
ill reality, ever the moft to be fufpcéled.
They forcibly dragged to us girls of 13 or 14 years
of age, folely with tlic lîope of receiving the reward
of panders. Their repugnance evinced, lliat in them
, thtf
LA PEROUSE S VOYAGE
[1785.
76
the laws of the country were violated, and every
Frenchman disdained to ufe the brutal power which
he thus pofîeflèd.
Ï have found, in this country, fll the arts poflèfîèd
by the people of the Society Iflands, but with much
lefs opportunity of exerciling them for want of ma»
terials. The canoes alfo are of the fame fFiape, but
they are compofed only of very narrow planks, fom
or tîve feet long, and would, at the moft, carry but
ibur men. I faw only three on this part of the ifland;
and I fhould not be furprifed, if, in a fhort time,'
through the want of wood, there (hould not be one
remaining. In faél, they have learnt to do without
them, for they fwim fo perfe6lly well, that in the high-
cll fea they go two leagues out, and fearcb, by choice
at their return on fhore, the places where the furf
breaks with the greateft violence. - ..,,
The coaft feemed to be flocked with very littte flift,
and, I believe, the vegetable kingdom fupplies all the j
food of the inhabitants, who live on potatoes, yams,
bananas, fugar-cane, and a fmall fruit which grows
on the rocks at the iea iide, refembling the bunches
of raifins found in the neighbourhood of the tropics
in the Atlantic Occj^n. We cannct reckon, airimg
their rciburqe?, a few fowls, which, in this iiland, are
fo rnrc, that our travellers did not fee a fingle land
bird, and fea-fowl are by no means common.
. In the cultivation of their land thcfe iflanders fhew ,|
great intelligence, pulling up the weeds> burning
them in heaps, and thus fertilizing the ground with
their cinders. The banana trees are planted in a
ftraight line by the cord. They alfo cultivate the
folanum, morel, or nightfhade, but I know not to
what ufe it is applied. If I had obferved veflbls ca-
pable of relifting fire, I (hould haive fuppolfed that
they drefs it like fpinage, as at Madagafcar or the lile
of France. But they have no other mannerof cook*
jng their vidluals than that of the Society lïlapdSj
[1785.
every
poflèred
th much
I of ma^
ape, but
nks, fou»
arry but
leifland;
ort time,'
>t beone
) without
thehigh-
by choice
'. the fuif
little flfli, ij
ies allthe '
es, yams,
ch grows
Î bunches
he tropicj
n, ani(Big
iiland, are
ingle land
fi. ■ ■ _ •■ ,
iders fhewF ^1
, burning
3und with
inted in a
Itivate the
ovv notto
veflbls éâ-
3oïed that
or^heliie
er of cool»
•ty lïlapâs
1 li, :\wy',l
- '^ '- T ' '(ill',:. " ''i^
w§
'''!i ■ ;
ii .
HPil
■Ëj
II
■f
3
m
^y
V
m'ê
,V 'l::«i!ll
i
': ,.ii .; ' /
it'ïpl,- J l'i
fM^'i
'l-'i!
'iiiiiii!
!i:inili
; liiiliiiin'
rJll
«S'Iii
K<]
I
IM
\!
by diggin
potatoes i
with eartt
in an ovei
The ea
that they
unobferva
our cables
wheel, an
take the d
had fome
fome dou
the lefs, 1
By not ir
we gave c
minds, an<
they were
the mome
So far d
on their i
them with
grain ; in
fheep, wF
change de
with ftonei
I repeat, t
with fuch
dent : but
and, I flati
could no 1
tribute thi
their pracî
be amende
it is chimt
events fin
* Eafter I
LaPcroufe o
11S5.'] ROUND THÉ world; ' 77
by digging a hole in the earth, and covering their
potatoes or yams with hot ftones and coals mixed
with earth, fo that all their food is baked as it were
in an oven. ^..
The care they took to mearurMHy fhip, proved
that they did not behold our works of art with the
unobfervant gaze of fiupidity. For they examined
our cables, our anchors, our compafs, our fteering
wheel, and came the next morning with a line to
take the dimenlions, which led me to think that they
had fome difculfion of the fubjcét on fhore, and
fome doubts remained. But I only efteem them
the lefs, becaufe they are fo capable of refledlion.
By not making ufe of our power againft them,
we gave occafion for one refledtion to arife in their
minds, and even that may perhaps cfcape them : yet
they were not entirely blind to it, fince they fled at
the moment a mullcet was prefented.
So far different was our condu6t, that we landed
on their ifland only to confer benefits, and l(^ad
them with prefents. In their fields we fowed ufeful
grain ; in their habitations we left pigs, goats, and
fheep, which will probably increafe, and in ex-
change demanded nothing; yet did they attack us
with ftones, and rob us of every thing they could ftilfer.
I repeat, that in other circumflances to have behaved
with fuch lenity, would have been extremely impru-
dent : but I was determined to depart in the night,
and, I flattered myfelf, that in the morning when they
could no longer pel ccive our veflcls, they would at-
tribute this fudden departure to our juft contempt for
their pradlices ; and, by this refleélion, they may
be amended. Be this opinion as it may, and perhaps
it is chimerical, navigators are little interefted in the
cvent,^ fince this Ifland * fcarcely affords any re-
'*'' fourccs
* Eafter Ifland, difcovered in 1722 by Roggevirein, appear*;, as
La Pcroufc obferves, to have experienced a revojution both in its
population
i
7 s tA PE110USE*S VOYAO-E [l785.
fources for fhips, and the Society Iflands are not
far diftant.
c.
»e*M«94
'-■i\
. I '.' u •
CHAP. V.
i\
EXCURSION OP M. DE LANGLE INTO THE INTERIOIi
OF EASTER ISLAND NEW OBSERVATIONS ON THE
MANNERS AND ARTS OP THE NATIVES, THE ÛUA-
LITY AND CULTIVATION OP THEIR SOIL, ETC.
** TT SET out at eight in the morning, accompanied
•' ]^ by Meflrs. Dagelet, do Lamanon, Dufrcfnc,
Duché, TAbbé ]V[ongt:s, Father Receveur, and the
Gardener, and went about two leagues to the eaft-
Avard towards the interior of the illand. Our jour-
ney was very difficult over fmall hills covered with
volcanic flones. But I foon perceived paths which
communicated from dwelling to dwelling. VVc took
advantage of them, and vilitcd feveral plantations of
yams and potatoes. The foil of thefe plantations
was a very fat vegetative earth, which the Gardener
judged proper for the culture of our grain ; he
therefore fowed cabbages, carrots, beet, maze, and
eourds. We endeavoured to make the natives iin-
aerfland that thefe feeds would produce fruits or
roots for their fullenance. They underflood us per-
fc6tly, and then fhowed us the bed land, pointing
out the places where they wifhccl to fee our new pro-,
du6lions arife. To thefe leguminous plants, v.c
population and the produ6lions of its foil. We muft, at Icaft, draw
that inference, from the diffeience in the accounts of îhei'o tv\o
navigators. The Reader who wi flics to compare them, may con-
fult the f 'oya^e ^û Rog^^enveiri, pv'wtcd at the Hague, in 1739, f>'
the extraft v.huh the Prefident de Broffes gives in his work, en-
titled,///,?o;;rj ^£ Navigations aux Tents Âtijhales^ vol. ii. îi6, aiui
follow ino pages. — French Editor.
V • ■ , - added
1785.] ROUND THE WORLD. 7Q
added feeds of orange, citron, and cotton, endea-
vouring to make them comprehend they were/ trees,
and that what we had previoufly fown were plants.
« We found HP other flirubs than the paper mul-
berry tree *, and a fpecics of the raimofu or fenfitive
plant : there appeared feveral confiderable fields of
the morel, which they feemcd to cultivate in lands
impoveriflicd by yams and j)otator,s. We continued
our route towards the mountains, which, though very
lofty, all terminate in gentle declivities, and are co-
vered with grafs ; on them we perceived no traces of
floods or torrents.
" After having gone about two leagues to the cafl*
ward, we returned by the fouth towards the fouth
caft fide, which our Ihips had lailed along the evening
before ; and where, with the aid of our telefcopcs,
we IkkI obfervcd feveral monuments. Many of thefe
were thrown down, and it appeared that the inhabi-
tants Itike no care to repair them, while others re*
mained ftanding, vith their platforms half ruined.
Thelargeit of tho.c I meafured was l6 feet 10 inches
high, comprehending the capital, which is three
feet one inch, and of a very light porous lava. It»
breadth, at the fboulders, \sas fix feet feven inches,
and its thicknefs at the bafe two feet feven inches.
Huring at length defcricd a colleelion of hut?^
I direeteci my fteps to this little village as it were, of
which one of the houfes was 330 feet in length, and
in the (hapc of an inverted canoe. Very near thiâ-
hut we obferved tlic foundations of feveral- others,
which now no longer exill ; they are eompofed of
liiva cut into Hones, in which tliere are holes of about
1
I
'■Hi
m
m
1
■^B
IB
^fll
■■I
*.,
Ill
H
I
i
■wn
•I-
III
* Mmis pnpxn/ura, which abounds in Japan, v/here a prepara-
t'ion of the bark isuf'ed for paper. With this bark, which is very
ligneous, the women of Louifiana make various articles, togethcir
■vith tlie filk produced upon the tree, while the leaf affords nou-
Mfliment for the filk-worai. This tree alia grows in France.—
f^^•^ch Edim. '......■■ - - ^_ ■ • '
two
80 . LA PÉKOUSÈ*S VOYAdE [1785^
two inched diameter. This part of the ifland ap-
.peared better cultivated and more populous than
Cook's Bay, and the monuments and platforms more
numerous. On feveral of the ftones of which thefe
platforms are compofed, we remarked Ikeletons
rudely Iketched, and difcovered holes clofed up with
ilones, which, as we conjeélured, lead to caverns con-
taining the remains of the dead. An Indian explain-
ed to us by very expreffive figns, that they were in-
humed there, and afterwards afcended to Heaven.
On the fea (hore we met with feveral pyramids of
flone arranged nearly like balls in a park of artillery,
and perceived fome human bones in the neighbour-
hood of the pyramids and ftatues, of which the latter
had always their backs direéled towards the fea.
" The /lext morning we vifited feven platforms, on
which were ftatues either Handing or fallen. They
only differed in lize, or the ravages time had com-
mitted on them in proportion to their antiquity.
We found near the lall of them a kind of layman or
effigy of reeds, reprefentinga man ten feet high, and
covered with a white manufadture of the country;
the head of a natural fize, the body thin, the legg
pretty exadtly proportionate, and a net hanging to
its neck in the fhape of a balket covered with white
cloths, and apparently containing grafs. . By the fide
of this fack was the figure of a child two feet long,
with the arms crofled and the legs hanging down.
This layman, which could not have ftood there many
years, was perhaps the model from which ftatues are
now creeling to the chiefs of their country. By the
fide of this fame platform were two parapets forming
an inclofure of 384 feet length by 324 broad. We
could, not difcover whether this was a refervoir for
•water, or the outline of a fortrefs againft enemies ;
but it feemed a work left unfiniflicd hy its con-
ilruélors.
Continuing our route weftward. we met aboui
• . twenty
(t
1785.] ROUND THB WORLD. : 81
twenty children under the care of fome women, and
walking apparently towards the houfes I have juil
mentioned*
" At the fouthernmoft extremity of the ifland, we
faw the crater of an ancient volcano, whole fize,
depth, and regularity excited our admiration. It re-
fembled the fruftrum of the cone, whofe upper and
larger balls appeared more than two miles in circum-
ference. The extent of the lower bails may be efti-
mated, by fuppofing the fide of the cone to form an
angle of 30' with a perpendicular ; the inferior bafia
forms a perfeél circle, its bottom, which is marfhy,
containing lèverai confiderable pools of frelh water,
whofe iurface appeared above the level of the fea.
The depth of the crater is at leaft 800 feet.,, vuoâhv/
" Father Receveur, who defcended into the ctSL-^
ter, informed us that the marlh was furrounded by^
thefineft plantations of banana and mulberry trees ;
and it appeared, as we had obferved when coalting
the iiland, that there had been a confiderable falling
away of the land on the fide next the fea, which had
caufed a great breach in the crater, the height of
which is equal to one third of the cone, and its breadth
a tenth of the upper circumference. The grafs on
the fides. of the cone, the marlh at the bafe, and the
fertility of the adjacent lands, prove that the fubter-
raneous fires have long been extinguilhed *, and we
faw at the bottom of the crater the only birds we
met with on the whole ifland : thefe were the water
fwallow. Night obliged us to return towards our
veiTels, when we obferved near one of the houfes we
palTed a great number of children, who fled at our
approach. We imagined that in this houfe all the
children of the diftriâ were lodged, for their ages
were too fimilar to admit of their belonging to the
* On the fide of the crater next the fea is a ftatue almoft emirçly
deftroyed bv tîme, which proves that lèverai ages have eiapkà
fince the volcano has burnt ottt*
Vol. I.
G
two
//
^-tdU -J
S^ LA piftOUSB*8 TOTAGE [ifS^:
two wofn«n who appeared to have the case of thnn.
Near to tikis honfe was an earth- holc, where; yams and
potatoes were drefled in the manner praélifed in the
Society IflandISi
'* On my return to the tent, I gave to three difFe-
rent inhabitants the three fpecics of animals; we def-
tined for this ifland, making choice of thofe which
appeai>ed moA hkely to popagadc.
'* Theiô' vflandcrs are hofpitahle, and frequently
offered us potatoes and fagar canes, but never omit»
♦ed an opportuntty of pluiraering us when they could
eÉfèâ: it with impumty. Scarcely the tenth part of
the Gountry is cultivated, and the lands already ciear-
ed;^ ape in an oblong form, and extremely regular, but
without any kind of inclofure, the reft of the ifland
beiing covetôd with a very coarfe grafe, which ex-
tends to the very fummit of the mountains. It was
then the wet feaibn, and we found the earth moillen-
ed a foot deep. Some holes in the bills contained a
little freih water, but no where did we find anyi pun-
ning ftream. The foil appeared of goodl quality, but
were it advantagcoufly watered, would have a live-
lier vegetation. We did not perceive among thefe
people any implements of agriculture, and it is pro-
bable that when they have- cleared the land, they
make holes with (lakes, and then plant their }uin]8>
and potatoes. We found, though very rarely, a few
bulbes of mimofa, of which thethickeftare only three
inches in diameter at the Ibem. The moft probable
conjectures concerning the government of thefe
iiknders is, that they corapofc but a iinglc nation
divided into as many difbriéls as there are »wr^?« ;
for we Obferved that the villages are built near thefe
cemeteries. It appears that the productions of the
earth are common to all the inhabitants of the fame
diftriCt,. and as men offer their wives ta ftrangers
without the lead delicacy or referve, it may be fup-
pofed they do not belong to any roso. ia particular,
and
''<S^4
atià thftt iê1(m HÉ fchildi^ri are wéatïéd, !hëy àfe dé-
i;/er<îd to ôtJïér t^omen, who itt eJûdh dîftrîét" ài-e
Chtt'ged with theif WAnttgôftieîttt.
** Itl this iflarid we met tvith twice as many men
5(s woitîèn i ahd îf thtfy are not in fàél lefs numerous
than thfe tnén, f hèif appârènt pftucîtyiniift Have adfert
frorii their b«în^ more dôrteftic. Their t^^hole bo^-
j7iilaf iôri riiny hc eftimatéd ht 20001, While the numW
of houfeîs #6 /aW buildirig, and of their children,
gaVe us i^eîtfoft to conclude their Jiôpulation is not oÂ
the decline. But there is groriftd to believe, how-
ever, that the inhabitairts were more numerous tvHert
the iflànd was better' wooded. Had the inhabitants
fufficient induftry to build ciftems, they wbuld tC'
medy one of the greateft misfortunes of their fltua-'
tion, and might evfcn prolong theii* lives^, for we di<f
notice one man that appeared mofié thârt fikty-frVé
years of ase, if we may be fuppdftd to judge with
accuracy or at people We knew fo flliéhtly, àpf whofft
mode of life is fo diffei-etit from àiiT bwri. ' '
ir>(n B Imhiit
iirj'Niyd -^n
**-K-9i
H A P. YL) no-nii ^A
DEPARTtftÊ FÈOSÏ EASTER ÏStAi^D-^ASTRONÔlilîC/At
ÔBâEllVATlC^NS-^ARilïVAL AT THÉ SANDWiCtf
ISLAïnïS-^ANCHORAGE liii tHÉ BAY ÔTP KERIPORÉFÔ,
fN l-kE ISLANjy OP MOWEE^^DEtARTUitE PROM
,0 "K!
jfai.i
; n^mfS
ON quitting Cook'â Èay, \û Eaftér Ifland, Jri the
eveniwgof the lôth, I fteerëdtdtbcs^northWàtd,
coa-fting the iftand by moon light at a league's di(^
ftawce, and I did not lofe fight of it till the next day
at two in the afternoon, though We were theft fréta
it about 20 leagues. The wind blew conftantly be*
ùveen S. E. and E. S. E. till the 17th, but the wea-:
G 2 ther
*lfll
84 LA P£R0U8E*S VOYAGE [l785.
ther was perfectly clear, and did not change and be-
come cloudy till the wind came round to £. N. Ë.
where it fettled from the 17th to the aoth. At that
time we began to catch bon'ttas* which conilantly fol-
lowed our (hips as far as the Sandwich iflands, and
furnJQied every day, during fix weeks, a complete
allowance for the whole of our crews. This wholefomc
food prefervcd their health in the bed ftate ; and after
ten months navigation, during which we were only
twenty-five days in port, we had not one man firk
on board either of our fhips. Wc were navigating
in unknown fcas, and our track was parallel to that
of Captain Cook, in 1777» when he failed from the
Society Iflands for the N. W. coaft of America,
though wc were about 800 leagues more to the eaft-
ward. I had flattered myfelf that in a run of
near 2000 leagues I fhould have made fomc dif-
coveries, and conftantly kept men at the mail
head, . to whom I had promifcd a reward for the firft
who Ihould difcover land ; while, in order to com-
mand a more extenfive view, our fhips kept a-breafl
of each other during the day, leaving between them
a fpace of 3 or 4 leagues.
During this pafiSige, as on all other occafion^., M.
Dagelet never omitted any opportunity to take
lunar obfervations, which agreed fo well with M. Ber-
thoud's time-keepers, that they never differed above
10 or 15 minutes of a degree, and thus became a
check on each other. M. de Langle found his re-
fults equally fatisfadl^ory, and by the difference be-
tween the longitude, by account, and that by ob-
fcrvation, we knew each day the direélion of the
currents. They carried us to the weftward as far as
1^ S. lat. at the rate of about 3 leagues in 24 hours,
where they changed to the eafiward, running with
the fa^ dcgjfi^ gf rapidity as far as 7*^ north, where
* A 6fh, fd caltejl, the oil of which becomes luminous when
agitated.-^ee note, p. z I.
i.^tï . ^ they
1785.] ROUND THE WORLD. 85
they again *refumcd their weflerly dirc6lion. On
our arrival at the Sandwich iflands, our l^gitudc by
account differed about 5° from that by obferva-
tion, whereas, had wc, like the ancient navigators,
po(îè(îcd no means of taking lunar obfcrvations, we
ihould have laid down the Sandwich iflands. 5^ fur^
ther to the eaflward. Doubtlefs it is from this fct-
ting of the currents, fo little attended to in former
times, that the errors of the Spanifh maps have arifcn :
for it is remarkable that the iflands difcovered by
Quiros, Mcndana and other navigators of that nation,
have been again found in thefe later periods, but al*
ways at a greater diflance from the coaft of America
than in their charts. And, I may add, that had not
the felf-love of our pilots been hurt by the difference
which daily occurred between our longitude by ac-
count and that by obfervation, we fhould have found
an error of 8 or 10° in making the ifland ; and con-
fequcntly in lefs enlightened times we fhould have
placed the Sandwich iflands 10° more to the eafl-
ward.
Thefe refledlions lefl me much in doubt concern-
ing the exiflence of the cluftcr of iflands called by
the Spaniards La Mefa^ Los Majos, La Difgraciada.
In the chart which Admiral Anfon took on board the
Spanifh galleon, and of which the Editor of his
voyage has given an engraving, that clufler is placed
precifely in the fame latitude as the Sandwich Iflandsy
but l6° or 17° more to the eaflward. My daily
differences in longitude made me believe thelc iflands
were abfolutcly the fame* ; but what fully convin-
ced
* In the courfe of the years 1786 and 1787, Captain Dixon put
in three times at the Sandwich Iflands, and entertaining the fame
doubts as La Péroufe, on the identity of thefe iflands, and thofe
called Los Majosy La Mefa^ &c. and after having made thefe re-
marks, drew precifely the fame conclufions, as may be feen by the
following extrafls from his voyage.
f'The iflands Los Majos, La Me{h, and Santa Maria de la Gorta.,
G 3 > - laid
'^m
W rug'! Jj, ■'f%\,^:i
8/3 LA ?££QUa|S*S VOVAQE [1785.
çe4 me of it was the npme of Me/a, or T^ble^ given
ty the Spaniards to the iflancl of Owhyhcic. I haa rca4
in CaptaiA King*s 4efcriptIon of this fame jAanc],
that after having doubled the caftcrnmpft poipt thcv
difcovered a mountain called Mowna-iRjoa, which is
perceived a long time before : *' It is, (fays he) flat
at the top, making what is called by mariners table-
land,'" an Pngliih word uncommonly exprp^Tivc of its
form.
Though the feafon was now far advanced, and I
had not a nioment to facrifice before my arrival on
laid down by Mr. Roberts, from i8 deg. 30 miti. to 28 dfg. nortji
latitude, and from 135 deg. to 149 deg. weft longitude,* and co.
Eied by him from a Spanifli M. S. chart, were in vain looked for
y us, and to ufe Maureiie's words, '* // m(^ be p^qtctfu^fd fbqt tit
fucb IJlands ofe to be found \^' fo that their intention has uniformly
been to miflead rather than afflft fucceçding navigators.
" Our obfervntions at nonn« on the 8th of May, gave 17 deg.
** i.min. north latitude, and 129 deg. 57 min. weft longitude : m
** tnis fituation we looked for an iftand called by the Spaniards Rtco
*• Partieh^ but in vain ; however, we ftood to the northward yn-
** der an eafy fail, and Icep^ a good look out, expelling foon to fall
** in with the group of iflan^s already mentioned.
*' From the i ith to the 14th, we lay to every night, and when
** we made fail in the^orning, fpread at the diftance of eight or
•* ten miles, ftanding wefterly; it being probable that though the
** Spaniards might have been correal in the latitude of thefe iflands,
>* yet they might be enfily miftaken feveral degrees in their longi-
*' tude: but our latitude on the 15th at noon being 20 deg. 9 min.
"north, and in 140 deg. i min. weft longitude, which is confi-
** dçrably to the weft ward of any ifland laid down by the Spaniards,
*' we concluded, and with realon, that there mult be fome grofs
** miftake in the chart."
*' On the firft of November, we looked out for Sta. Maria le Gorta,
*♦ which is laid down in Cook's chart, in 27 deg. 50 min north
♦♦latitude, and 149 deg. weft longitude, and the fame afternoon
*♦ failed dircftly over it. Indeed we fcarcely expeéted to meet with
" any fuch place, as it is copied by Mr. Roberts into the above
*' chart, from the fame authority which we had fpund to be erro*
" ueous, refpecling Los Majps and Roco Partida."
* It mud be obfervcd, that Dixon reckons the longitudes weftwarJ, y(\\\\t
Coolt in his 3d voyage reckons them eaftward. For the former having failed
weftv^d to double Cape Horn, found that mode of reckprnng içore natural an(i
conveiiient.
C'J.^
I ..)
the
J765.J KOUVO TUB Wa«LD. '■ li>
the coaft of America, I itnmc(\iately detertnined to
ihape a couHc fo as to denionihtite the truth or
ftlfchood of my opinion. Had I been in an crroT;,
the reAilt mull have brought tfic to a fécond cluf*
tcr o{ iflands, forgotten perhaps for above a century
by the Spaniards, aiul bavu determined their precilli
fituation and didancc, from the Sandwich iflands.
Thofe who know mc bell, ho\v ever, will not fuppoft
I was guided in this rcfearch by any defîre to deprive
Captain Cook of the honour of this difcovery. On
the contrary, filled with adn)iration and rcfpc<ft for
that great man, he will ever appear in tny eyes the
ableft of navigators, and the firft who has prccifely
determined the fituation of thcfc iflands ; explored
their coafls, defcribed the manners, cuftoms, and re-
ligion of their inhabitants; a knowledge, for which,
we muft ever regret, he has paid with hiS life. He
indeed is the Columbus of that country, of the coaft
of Âlafka, and of almoil all the iflands of the South
Sea. Ignorance may, by chance, difcover a few
iflands but it belongs only to great men like him
to leave nothing unexplored that appertains to the
countries they have vifited. Mariners, philofophers,
and naturalifls, all find in his voyages the objeéts
of their refearch. Every man, at leall every naviga*
tor, owes a tribute of gratitude to his memory, and
how can I withhold my fuftrage at the moment
when I am approaching the clufler of Iflands where
he fo tragically finiflicd his career ? "
On the 7th of May, in 8^ N. lat. we perceived
feveral birds of the petrel kind, together with thofe
caWcd frégates and j)aille en culs, of which the two
firft are faid not to go far from land. We alfo ob-
ferved feveral turtles pafs along fide ; and the
Aftrolabe caught two exceedingly good, which were
divided with us. The birds and turtles followed us
as far as 14^, and I have no doubt we were paflling
near fome ifland^ though probably uninhabited ; fcfr
■ ' • G 4 a rock
' 11
1
1
1 1
i H
I
1
1
1'
V !
1 Cr i|
affr
j£^9 1
1
li^H '
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11
il!
f 1
H^IH ^
1 1
^I^BbBB^Hs^^K^IhH 1
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l^^/'ci ^BKh^H^R
Iff'l:
Big MB j
1
P
9wM ^HhI
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PI'
BvS R^S'lB
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1 1
■4ii'"''
bwkhIB 1
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.limii^ÊliM MMIB
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wB 'WMWM !
fl
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i
88 LA pérouse's voyage [1785.
a rock in the middle of the fea is a better refuge to
thefe animals than a cultivated country. At that
time we were very near Rocca-Partida and Nublada,
and I fhaped my courfe to pafs nearly in fight of the
former, if its longitude fhould appear to be accu-
rately laid down ; but I was not willing to run
into its latitude, not having a fingle day to give up
to this refearch. I knew well that in this courfe it
was improbable I fliould fall in with it, and I was
but little furprifed at not getting fight of it. When
we had pafl^d its latitude the birds difappeared, and
till my arrival at the Sandwich illands over a fpace of
500 leagues, we never faw more than two or three in
a day.
On the 1 5th I was in Ip® 17' N. lat., and 130° W.
long, which is the latitude of the group of iflands laid
down on the Spanilh charts, as well as of the Sand-
wich illands, though 100 leagues to the eafl;ward of
the former, and 400 of the latter. Thinking I
fliould render an important fervice to geography, if
I relieved our charts from thefe empty names of iflands
that have no exiftence, and perpetuate errors that are
extremely prejudicial to navigation ; I was defirous
to banifii all doubt, by extending my track as far as
the Sandwich Iflands. I even formed an intention of
pafiiing between the ifland of Owhyhee, and that of
Mowee, which the Englifh had not an opportunity
of exploring. I therefore propofed to land at Mowee
to barter for fome provifions, and to depart with-
out lofing another moment. I knew that by only
partially executing this plan, and running but 200
leagues on that line, I fhould give room for thedoubts
of fccplics. 1 was defirous that not the fmallefi: ob-
jcélion (hould remain to oppofe my conclufions.
On the 18th of May I was in 20^ N. lat, and
I3g° "VV. long., prccifcly on the fpot afligned to the
Spaniûi iflr.nd Difgraciada, and had no indication
whatever of lan4. --'va/' {J •'^«*5il^;^^*;v:;u^^iï^:U . i
1785.] KOUND THE WORLD. 89
On the 20th I paflTed through the middle of
the whole group of Los Majos, and I never had
lefs reafon to think, myfelf in the vicinity of any
ifland. I continued to run to the vveftvvard on this
parallel between 20** and 21^, and at length, in the
morning of the 28th, I defcried the mountains of
Owhyhee covered with fnow, and foon after of Mo-
wee, fomewhat lefs elevated. I crowded fail to near
the land, but was at a diftance of feven or eight
leagues from it at night-fall, which we fpcnt {landing
off and on, waiting for day break to enter the chan-
nel between thefe two iflands, and to fearch for an-
chorage under the lee of Mowcc, near the ifland
of Morokinne. Our longitudes, by obfervation,
agreed fo perfeélly with thofe of Captain Cook, that
having pricked off the ihip*s place, on the Englifh
chart, by our bearings we found a difference of only
10 miles, which we were more to the eaflward.
At nine in the morning I had the point or Mowce
bearing weft 15° N., and perceived a fmall ifland
bearing weft 22° N., which the Englifh were not
within fight of, and have therefore omitted to deli-
neate on their chart, which is, in this part, very de-
fedivc, while all they have laid down from their own
obfervations deferves the higheft praifc. The ifland
of Mowee afforded a moft fafcinating profpeél. I
ranged along it at the diftance of a league, where it
runs into the channel to the S. W. by W. We be-
held the torrents rufhing in cataracts from the proud
fummits of the lofty mourttains, and difcharging theîn-
felves into the fea, after watering the habitations of the
natives, which are fo numerous, that a fpace of three
or four leagu-cs appears to form only a lingle village.
But all the houfes are fituated by the fea fide, and the
ijiGuntains are fo near them, that the inhabitable Ikirt
feemed to be lefs than half a league in breadth. It
would be impoffible to form an idea of the fenfations
this profpçd excited in us, without beinga feaman, and
'■'■•- reduced
('
i
go LA pbrouse's voyage [1785.
redoced; like us, to a bottle of water per day. The
trees that crowned thefe mountains, the verdure, the
bananas, around the dwellings, every thing, except
the Tea breaking with the greateft violence on the
ihore, contributed to enchant us ; and, like Tanta-
lus, we dclcried and devourçd with our eyes, what
it was impoiîiblc for us to reach.
The wind freihened, we were running fix miles
an hour, and I was defirous, before night, to com-
plete the furvey of this part of the ifland, as far as
the ifland of Morokinne, under which I flattered
myfelf we ihould find an anchorage iheltered frcfhi
the trade- winds. This plan, which was the refult of
unavoidable circumftances, did not. admit of my
Shortening fail to wait for about 1 50 canoes that put
off from fhore, loaded with fruits and pigs, which the
Indians propofed to exchange for pieces of iron.
Almoft all the canoes came along fide one or other
of our (hips, but we failed fo faft that they filled with
water. The Indians were forced to let go the rope we
bad thrown out to them . They threw themfel ves into
the fea, fwain after their pigs, and bringing them
back in their arms, hoifi:ed up the canoes on their
ihoulders, emptied the water they had Ihipped, and
got into them again ; endeavouring, by means of
paddling, to regain the fituation along fide of us they
bad been obliged to abandon, and which had been
immediately feized by othens, who fucceffively ex-
perienced iimilar misfortunes. Thus we faw above
40 canoes fuccefilively upfet ; and although the trade
we carried on with thefe good Indians was extremely
beneficial to both parties, we could not poffibly pro-
cure above 1 5 pigs, and (bme fruit, for we were de-
prived of opportunity to exchange near 300 more.
The canoes had oat- riggers, each held from three
to five men, and their medium length was 24 feet,
only one foot broad, and nearly as much in depth.
We weighed one of thatfize, which did not exceed
. . . 50lb.
/ *
J
#
^.]
Vu
mi
*
TOI
û
f$»(bm
fin
m
m win
■j,
at
W/ '
*T.
^çyjifp TH» WOB.LP. g\
vdXhU tbe i(^i«bitanl8 of j^)ç&
çf pQ league», tmvlsrfeot^^-
i fl^ ihjit n(p^w«eii, i|tppi «nd
,> lîçry Wyy. biat t^py jTwflf»
ife 9(|»rj!iK:e4 the munt^lii? fipci^-
,.v .. jo #ff »9»ï5<J» which exhibit^ ;j&
i^ii;ypi|>^qwhithQ4U«, tbcHig it? wrdui©
jpfé, Wc n^ no longer |)crpçîi?«l
lii' the treeg grew even much lefs clofe j the
i^pàpfif^^ oqly of ten or twcjye huts a^ a coq.
Ib di^ance from each other; we every mo^
.^^nd 'iH^uib to regret the isountiy we had
Ê^^ériA- :i<>an(f: np Iheltcr Imt where our eyes
f JB^ fiightfwl ftOf è, from which the lava had fpr-
jpill^ |U(er^fCaibade8 which» -in the|4>tber
)>'^atké^ ÏK^fall fjeom the mountains.
^^ lybg ft^WS. W. by W, as ftr as the
^Ippi ofth^wod of Mowee, I hauled up weft,
(jg^se^^s N. W., to gain an anchorage which
^||r611qEbe hid already taken in 23 fathoms wate^*,
iiUm of grey faod, about a piile frqjn the land.
r<|pn^ Sheltered from the fea breezes by a large
"itiâpped with clouds, which, from time to time,
V|l^ &me very hard fqualls ; and the winds ihift-
inftant, we were inceflantly dragging our
IpSv This road was rendered the more incom-
by ;urrents, which prevented our coming
^ wind, excepting in iqualls, which cauied {o
'%<fca^ that Out boats had the greateft difficulty
However I fent one off immediately to
id rbund oUr fhips, and the officer informed me
j^^<;^ hottpiti was the fame as far as the ihore, that
ll^éer ihoaled gradually, and there were teven
%t two cables length from the beach. But
^#ei|;hlng the anchor, I found that our cable was
abfolutely
i
92 LA PÉROUSB s VOYAGE [l785.
abfolutcly ufelefs; and that there muft be many
rocks covered only with a light thin bed of fand.
The Indians from the villages on this part of the
illand were eager to come on board in their canoc§
bringing us, for traffic, fome pigs, potatoes, banana
roots of pied (le veauy which the Indians called /«r^,
with cloths and fome other curiofities, which form
part of their habiliments ; but I would not permit
them to come on board till the Ibip was anchored, and
the fails furled. I, told them I was Taho •; and that
* A word which, according to their religion, exprefles any thing
that may not be touched, or a confecrated place which they may
)iot enter.
For the fignification of words in the language of the Sandwich
Iflands, we may rely on the vocabulary or Captain Cook, who
made a long (lay in thefe iflands, and in his communications with
the iflanders, poflcfled advantages which no other navigator has been
able to obtain. To all thefe grounds of confidence in him, we
may add the known talents of Anderfon, by whom he A^asfo well'
aflifted.
Dixon gives a vocabulary of their language, in which he makes
faèoo (îgnify embargo, though in his journal he explains the ceremo-
ny of impofing the taèoo in the fame manner as Captain Cook.
The following is a comparifon of feveral words taken from tl^e
two vocabularies, which proves what miftakes may be made when
to a perfeét ignorance of a language is added the uncertainty of the
pronunciation of the words, the manner of exprefling which va<
riçB in aimoû every individual :
CORRESPONDING WORDS TAKEN FROM THE VOCABULRIES.
Rnglijh words. Cook^s. Dixm't.
Cocoa Nuts, Eenèeo, . ...... Ncehu.
The Sun, Hai, Raa, Malarma.
A Gourd, . Aieeboo, Tiba.
AT^»»». {Sc.t;} ^"^""^
Brother, Tooanna, ...... Titunanie.
A Cord, Heaho, , Touro.
Cook's vocabulary, though more perfeô than that of Dixon,
fupports my aifertion. We find the word denoting a wÀman dif-
ferent in two places ; he repeats it without hefitation, and proba-
bly he learned its fignification of two perfons whofe pronunciation
was different, for in one place he writes 'vcabeifie^ and jn the other
maheine,— 'French Edihr. " '
word,
1785.J ROUND THE WORLD. p^
word, which I had learnt from the accounts of Eng-
lilh navigators, produced all the efFedt I could have ex-
peâe^l. M. de Langle, not having ufed the fame
caution, had for a moment the deck of his (hip
greatly incommoded by a croud of Indians ; who
were however fo docile and fearful of giving offence,
that wc made them return to their canoes with the
greatcft cafe. When I had fufFered them to come
on board, they ftirrcd not a flep without our con-
fcnt, their looks betrayed a confiant fear of dif-
plealing us, and their commerce was condu<5led^
with the moft pcrfcd good faith.
Old pieces of iron hoops particularly attraâedT"
their attention and awakened their délire, nor did
they want addrcfs to procure them by the managment ,
of their bargains ; for never would they fell a quan-^i
tity of Huff, or a number of pigs by wholefale, well i
judging it would be more advantageous to demand
a feparate price fcr every article. ^^
Their habits of commerce, and their knowledge
of the ufe of iron, for which, according to their
own confeffion, they are not indebted to the Eng-
liih, are additional proofs of tl^e communication
which formerly exifted between thele people and the
Spaniards*, who, a century ago, had very ftrong
reafons
,-t..,-
U 'E^./c
* It appears certain that thefe iflands were difcovered for the
firft time by Gaétano, in 1542. This navigator failed from the
port of La Natividad, on the weftern coaft of Mexico, in 20, N.
lat. fteering to the weftward ; and after having run 900 leagues oa
tiiat point tff the compafs, (confequently without changing his ia-
tiniiie) he fell in with a gioup of iflands inhabited by favages al«
mod naked. Thefè iflands were furrounded with coral, were
flocked with cocoa-nuts, and feveral other fruiîs, but poflèlièd
neither gold nor (ilver ; he caFed then» the Iflands of the Kings,
probably on account of the day when the difcovery was made ; and
lie named that which he difcovered about 20 leagues farther weft the
Ifland of Gardens. From this account itVould have been impoflible
for geographers not to place the difcoveries of Gaétano precifely in
the fame l^ot where Captain Cook afterwards found the Sandwich
. Iflands.
^ LA PEROÛSê'S VÔtAÔÉ [l7d5.
reafons forr the cortcealmcnt of théfé ifl^ndâ. The
tç^eftcm fta« of America were fôrtnerly irtfefted \^}th
pimies, tvho would have derived fupplies of -fn-ovi-
ÛOM from ihefe iflander», the difficulty of procuring
^hich obliged them to run weft ward towards the In-
dian Seas, or returrt by Cape Horn to the Atlantic
Ocean, When the navigation of the Spaniards in
the weft was reduced to a iiftgle galleon from Ma-
xlilla, I belitvc that teflTcI, \thich Was extremely
rich, V7as limited by the proprietors to a certain
track, which dimimfhed their rifk. Tlrus, by de-
grees, has this nation loft perhaps even the remem-
brance of thefe iflands, retained by Lietit. Roberts
cm the general chart of Cook*s voyage, in their an-
cient fuppofed fitnation of 1 5^ to the eaftward of the
Satidwich Iflands. Their identity however with thefe
Utter being, in my opinion, eflabliftied, I have
w
Iflands.: But the Sp»iifii Editor adds*, that thefe iflands are fliuated
between 9* and 1 1' ht. infteâd of between 19" aind a i* , as naviga-
toris muft conclude froti the traék ^urfued by Gaétano.
. Was the omiflion of thefe ten degrees an en'or in the figures, or
a contrivance of the policy of the Spanifli Court, which had a
ereat intereft, a century ago» in concealing thé fifiiation of all the
lÉinds in thii^ ocean ?
I am inclined to believe it is an error in the figures, for it would
Intve bfeea very bad management to have publiihed that Gaétano
departed h'om 20" lat. and fteered due weu. Had it been their in>
tention to have concealed the true latitude, they might, with a&
little diftculty, have aicribed hir courfe to another point of the
cottipafs.
However this, may be, every thing coincides except the ten de>
gfees, which mud be added to the latitude given them by Gaétano.
Tl«e diftance fronv the coaft of Mexico ; the people; their natural
produâions ; the coaft equally furrounded with coral ; and, laftly,
the extent from north to fouth is the fame : the bearing of the
Sandwich Iflands beingj nearly between the 19° and 21*, as that of
Gaétano is between 9° and 1 1". t
This further proof, joined witk thoie before cited, reduces this
s/eographical qtieflion to the greateft degree of certainty j to which,
however, I may add, that there does not exift any clufrer of Iflands
between the 9° and 11° degree, through which lit» the ufual track
of Ebfi galleons from Acapulco to Manilla.
n .r ■ . ; thought
>•
.- f
1.755.J noim» tan woRid. gs
thought it my duty to expunge them from the for-
face of the ocean.
It was fo late before our fails were furled, that I
\fsà obliged to defer till the morrow my larwliTig on
the ifland, where nothing could detain me but the
advantage of an cafy watering place. Wc (bon pei-
ceivcd, nowever, that this part of the coaft enjoyed
no running ftreams, the declivity of the niowiitains
having direéVed the courfe of the raifls to windward.
The labour of a few days would perhaps fufHce to
render this bleffing common to the whole jfland ; but
thdfe Indians who, m other refpedts, arc greatly ad-
vanced, have not yet arrived at this fpecies of induftry.
Their fprra of government may be learnt from the
accounts of the Englifh, and the extreme fubordi-
nation which reigns among them fufficiently proves
an acknoiwledgcd authority exifts, extending gradu-
ally irpin. the king to the moil inconfiderable chiei^
and uhimately bearing on the people. I was pleaCtd
and entertained by an imaginary comparifon of tïiefe
Indians with tho^ of ËAdcr Ifland, whoie industry
iâ,. at lead, equally advanced ; for the monuments
of the latter evince more intelligence^^ their clotli's'
are better manufaétured, and their bouibs better
conftru6ied,i though their government is fo defec-
tive that no One has the power of fupprcffinjg difor-
der. They acknowledge no authority, and tbough ,
I do not believe them to be depraved, it too com'^
monly happens that licentioufnefs generates difa^eë-
«ble and often fatal confoqnenccs. In this comparir
Ion every advantage was in favour of the Sandwich
Mlaads, notwitbftantUng the death of Capt, Gook
had excited all my prejudice againft theni.- It is tnorô
natural for navigators to regret with anxiety the lofs^
offo ^reat aman, than to examine, in the cooU'
blooded fpirit of inveftigation, whether fomc rafhnels
or imprudence on his part did not, in fome meafure,
compel
9^ * LA PÉB0U8E*S VOYAGE [ijSS,
compel the inhabitants of Owhyhee to (land on their
own defence*.
■ The
• It is but too clearly proved, that the Enelifli were the ag.
frelTors, a truth which they would in vain enoeavour to conceal,
draw my proofs from the accounts of Captain King him*
Iclf, who was the particular friend of Captain Cook, and regarded
him as his father, while the iflanders believed him to bear tnat re-
lation, and who, after a faithful narration of the events which
led to his death, adds: " I was fearful that his confidence might
** at foms unlucky moment put him too much off his guard."
' The reader may judge of the faA himfcif, by a compariibnof
the following circumftances. ' ^ > '
. Cook too inconfiderately gave orders for firing in cafe the work-
men (hould be diilurbed, notwithilanding the experience he had
of themaflacre of ten of Captain Furneaux's crew, occafioncdby
two (hots fired on the Zealanders, who had committed a petty then
of bread and fifh.
. Pareea, one of the chiefs, on daioijing his canoe which had been
feized by the crew, was knocked down by a violent blow with an
oar which (Iruck him on the head. When recovered fi-om the
fliock, he had the gencrofity to forgot the violence committed on
him, and a fhort time afterwards retuvned with à hat that had been
ilolen, which he refiored, and even qcprefled a fear that Captain
Cook Ihould kill on punifli him.
Previous to any other offence hàvhig been committed, except the
ftcaling of the boat, two guns were fired on a couple of large canoes
which were endeavouring to make ofT.
Notwithflandi«g thefe circumflances. Cook marched to the vil-
lage where the king was, and received all the ufual marks of re-
fpcA, the inhabitants proftratins thKnlfelves before him.
Nothing indicated any hoflile intehlions on the part of the
Iflanders, when the boats Rationed acrpfs the bay fired aeain on the
canoes which attempted to efcape, and unfortunately killed a chief
of the higheft rank. " '
. His death enraged the inhabitants, one of whom only fhewed
marks of defiance to Captain Cook by menacing him with a ftone.
On this man Captain Cook fired, but the ball was prevented from
taking ctfeél by the mat with which he was covered: that (hot, how-
ever, becoming the fignal for combat, Phillips was on the point of
being ftabhed, when Conk fired a fécond time whfh ball and killed
the native who was neareft to him : the attack immediately became
more ferious, and the marines and faîlois fired a difchar^e of muf-
quetry.
Already four of the former were kill«d> and three others, toge-
ther with the lieutenant, wounded, when Captain Cook perceiv-
Wg his danger, approadicd the water's- edge, calling to the boats
to
1786.] BOUND THE WORLD. g7
The night was very moderate, with the exception
bf a few (quails, which did not continue fo much as
two minutes ^t a time. About day>break the long;-,
boat of the Aftrolabe was difpatched with Meilrs.
Do Vaujuas, Boutiri, and Bemizet, who had orders
to ibiind a. very deep bay which lay to the N. W.
and where t fufpeéled there was better anchorap:e ;
but this other anchoring place, though equally attain-
ablei was not more commodious than that we already
occupied. According to the account of thefc offi-
cers, this part of the iflarid df Mowee affording navi-
gators neither Wood nor water, and having Very in-
convenient rOad-fteds^ itliiit naturally be little fre-
quented. '
At eight in the niorhing four bdats were ready to
fet off from our two (hips ; the two firft carrying 20
foldiers under arths, conlmanded by M. de Pierre-
vert, one of niy lieutenantSj arid in the two others
Were M. de Langle and myfelf, followed by all the
bafTengers and the officers not on duty. This war-
like train gave no alarm to the natives, who, from
day-break, lay aldngfide Us in their canoes. They
did not follow us on (hore, but continued their traf-
fic, and preferved an air of confidence which their
icountenarices had never before expre(ïèd4 About
l20 people, nien and women, awaited our arrival on
the beach. The foldiers with their officers firft
landed ; we niarked the fpot we nieant to referve
for our quarters^ arid the foldiers, with bayonets
fixed, performed their manoeuvres with the -fame ex-
aâitude as in the prefence of an enemy. The(ê ce-'
to ceafe firing, and come clofe in (hore to re-embark his little
party ; but he \^as the fame moiiient (tabbed in the back and fell
forwards into the fea.
Wemay addj that Cook intending, forcibly oc otherwife, to
carry the king and his family on board ; and having for that
purpofe to penetrate foiiie vràj up the country, made too weak an
arrangeitient fdr his objeél, in taking with him only a detschment
of ten tatu.r-Frencb Editor.
Vol. I. H temonies
QB LA PiROUfSfc's VOYAGE [l786«
remonics made no iinprcffion whatever on the na-
tives ; and the women evinced, by the moft une-
quivocal geftures, that they would grant us every
poflible mark of4heir kindncfs ; while the men, with
a refpedlful demeanor, endeavoured to difcover the
motives of our vilit merely to anticipate our wiflics.
Two Indians, who appeared to have fome authority
over the reft, advanced, and, with an air of confi-
dcrable gravity, making a pretty long harangue, of
which I did not comprehend a fyllable, offered me
each a pig, by way of prcfent, which I accordingly
accepted, and, in return, gave them fome medals,
hatchets, and pieces of iron, which, in their eyes,
are of ineftimablc value. My liberality produced a
great effect, and the women redoubled their carefles,
though their perfons were far from feducing. Their
features were void of delicacy, and their drefs fufFcred
us to perceive that the lyphilis had committed ra-
vages on the greater number. As no woman came
on board in the, canoes, I imagined they attributed
to the Europeans that malady of which they bore the
marks : but I foon perceived that this idea, if it
cxiftcd, had not left a fpark of refentmcnt in their
mind.
Let me, however, be permitted to examine whe-
ther the modern navigators are the real authors of
thefe evils, and if the crime with which they reproach
themfelvcs in their accounts is not, in faét, rather
imaginary than real. That my conjeélures may have
the greater wciglit, I Ihall reft them on the obfer-
vations of Mr. Rollin, a very intelligent man, and
furgeon-major on board my Ihip. He vifited feveral
inhabitants in this iftand who were attacked by that
difeafc, and not only remarked fyniptoms which in
Europe wouM require 12 or 15 years to be gradually
developed, but alfo obferved children fcven or eight
years old infected with this diforder, which they
could only have contra(5lcd at ihc brealL I fliall
* . add,
l^SÔ.J KOUNt) THE WORLD. QQ
tiàà, that Capt. Cook, in his firft voyage to the
Sandwich Iflands, only landed at Atooi and Once-
heow ; and that nine months after, when returning
from the north, he found almoft all the inhabitants of
Mowce, who came on board, infc6lcd with that ma-
lady. Mowee being 6o leagues to windward of
Atooi, fo rapid a progrefs mull excite fome doubts
concerning its origin*. If to thefe remarks we add
the communication which formerly exifted between
thefe iflanders and the Spaniards, it will appear pro-
bable they have long (hared, with other nations, all
the evils produced by this fcourge of the human
race.
This difcuffion was due to modern riavigators,
whom all Europe, mifled by their own accounts,
would for ever have reproached with a crime, the
conduélors of thofc expeditions deemed it impoiiible
to prevent. But their not having taken fufficient
precautions to prevent the evil, is a reproach they
cannot efcape. Were it even demonftrated, that the
introduélion of this malady is not attributable to their
imprudence, it is not equally clear that their com-
munication with thefe people has not increafed its
a6tivity, and rendered its confequences more terrible^ *
After viiiting the village, I ordered a ferjeant and
fix foldiers to accompany us, leaving the reft on the
* It appeaired to Captain Cook, that the inhabitants of Mowee
had been informed of his touching at Atooi and Oneeheow. Cooi'i
^d Toy age y vol. iii. We ought not, therefore, to wonder, that
the difeafe and the news pafled together. Bougainville is con-
tinced the inhabitants of the iflands, at a confîderable diflance from
each other in the Pacific Ocean, keep up a reciprocal communica-
tion. Voyage Aufur du Monde far Bougainville^ p. 21^.— French
EJifor.
t Doubtlefs the modern navigators are juftly reproached f<\
knowingly communicating the venereal difeafe fo the iflands ot the
South Sea ; Captain Cook does tiot difguife it in his accounts, as
>nay be feen particularly from his obferv&tions in bis 3d Voyage,
yol. ii. and vol. 'ûh—Freucb Editor.
H 2 * beach,
Ii:
M
If
m\
ii!!|
ti^iiraiiwf^j)*]
mawmm
P'
■aW
m||^
II'
l.;.''Ji''![^
nS^EH
m|
|r'''i
Ëm
i
'l*' a 'H^SiMMBf
mf
1|;.^^^|
m
Ih
mm
pip^
bBwi
1^4 ^i
0
m
100 LA i'Érousb^s voyagé [ifBÔi
beach, under the orders of M. de Pierrevert, in whofe
care I left the boats, from which not a failor had yet
landed.
Although the French were the firil: of the moderns
who landed on the Ifland of Mowee, I did not think
it my duty to take pofleffion of it in the king's name:
for the cuftoms of Europeans, in this reîpeél, are
completely ridiculous. Philofophers muft, doubt-
lefs, regret there are men who, becaufe armed with
bayonets and cannon, count for nothing 6o,000 of
their fellow creatures ; and, regardlefs of thé moil
facred rights, conlider as an objeél of conqueft, a
land which the inhabitants have fertilized with the
fweat of their brow, and has contained for ages the
tombs of their anceftors. Happily thefe countries
have been difcovered in times when religion no
longer aCords a pretext for outrage and cupidity.
The objedl of modern navigators in defcribing the
manners of new nations is only to complete the hif-
tory of man ; and their expeditions ought to com-
plete our knowledge of the terraqueous globe, lince
the lights they fpread around them are intended only
to tranfmit new happinefs, and augment the means
of fubliftence to the nations they viiit.
J On thefe principles wc have already tranfported to
their iflands, bulls, cows, goats, (beep, and rams ;
we have planted their lands with trees, a.id fown
their fields with grain ; we have carried them uten-
fils to accelerate the progrefs of induftry : while, on
our parts, the fatigues of our voyage would be am-
ply repaid, could we but deftroy that horrid cnftom
of human facrifice faid to prevail in all the Illands
of the South Sea. But, notwithflanding the opinion
of Mr. Anderfon and Captain Cook, I think with
Captain King, that a people fo good, fo gentle, and
fo hofpitable, cannot really be cannibals. It is dif-
ficult to aflxjciate religious ferocity with gentlenefs of
manners ; and fince Captain King relates, that the
pricfts
1786.3 AOUNB THE WORtD. 101
priefts of Owhyhee were their beft friends, I muft
con^^udc, that if gentlenefs and humanity have made
any progrefs among a clafs devoted by their office to
human facrifices, the reft of the inhabitants muft be
ftill lefs ferocious. It is evident, therefore, the practice •
q( devouring human flefti no longer fubfifts, though,
probably, the period of its ceflàtion has not long
elapfed.*
The foil of this country is wholly compoled of
fragments of lava, and other volcanic matter, and •
the inhabitants drink only brackifh water from very
fhallow wells, in fo little abundance as to fuppy lefs
than half a hogfhead from each daily.
During our excurfton we difcovered four little vil-
lages, each containing about ten or twelve houfes,
which are not only covered but built with ftraw, and
(haped like thofe of our pooreft peaHmts ; the rooft
being in the form of a penthoufe. The door, placed
at the gable end, is only three feet and a half high,
admits of no entrance without flooping, and is Ihut
only with a hurdle which any one may open. The
furniture of thcfe iflanders confifts of matts, ftrewed
like carpets, on which they fleep; and their only
kitchen utenfils are very large gourds, which they
ihape at pleafure while green. They varnifh and
delineate various defigns on them, in black ; and I
have feen feveral joined together, fo as to make very .
large vafes, with a glue that refifts moifture, and of
which^ therefore, I was very defirous of knowing the
compofition. Their cloths, of which they have great '
quantities, are made like thofe of the other iflands
from the paper mulberry, but notwithftanding they
* The horror of thefe people at our fufpeéling them of fuch a
praélice, and efpecially when afked whether they had devoured the
body of Captain Cook, confirms the opinion of La Péroufc ; yet
Captain Cook has proved to a certainty its exiftence athong the
New Zealanders ; and it cannot be dilTennbled, that the cuftom of
naking human facrifices, and eating enemies killed in battle, is ge-
lierai in all the iflands of the South Sea.-^/^rrnr^ Edîttr.
H 3 -^ arc
I
102 LA pérouse's voyage [1786.
are varloufly painted, yet, in this manufaôure, they
are not equally ikilful with the latter. On my re-
turn I received another harangue from ibme women
who waited for me under a tree, and prefbnted me
feveral pieces of cloth, for which I returned them
fome hatchets and nails.
The reader muft not expeâ many particulars of a
people already fufficiently known from the account»
of the EngUih navigators, who pafled four months in
thefe iflands, where we remained only a few hours.
The former had the advantage of knowing the lan-
guage of the country, and, therefore, we muft con-
line ourfelves to the hiftory of our own adventures.
_We began to re-embark at eleven o'clock without
the leaft reafon to complain of any mifbehaviour, and
were all on board by twelve. M. de Clonard had
received a Chief, and purchafed of him a mantle, and
a beautiful helmet covered with red feathers; and
had alfo bought more than 1 00 pigs, fome bananas,
potatoes, taroy a great many cloths, fome matts, a
canoe fitted with an outrigger, and other fmall arti-
cles made of feathers and ihells.
At our arrival on board, our fhips were driving,
it blew very ilrong from the E. S. E., and we were
dropping down upon the ifland of Morokinna, which,
however, was fufficiently diftant to admit of our
hoifting in our boats. 1 made the lignai to weigh,
but before we could get our anchor up^ I was oblig-
ed to make fail, and to drag it till I had pafled the
ifland, left I fhould drive beyond the mouth of the
channel. Had it unfortunately hooked in a rock,
arid had not the bottom been fufficiently hard and
level for it not to take hold, I fhould have been
obliged to cut the cable. v
We had not done weighing our anchor till five in
the afternoon, when it was too late to fleer between
Ranai and the weft fide of Mowee. Though it was
a new channel which I was defirous to reconnoitre,
prudence
■A
1786.] ROUND THE WORLD. 103
prudence forbad my attempting it by night. Till
eight o'clock we had baffling light airs, with which
we could not make half a league. At length the
wind fettled at N. E. when I fteered weft, paffing
at an equal diftance from the N. W. point of the
ifland of Tahoorowa, and the S. E. point of Ranai.
At daybreak I Hood in for the S. W. point of the iflc
of Morotoi, which I coaftcd at three-fourths of a
league diftance, and came out, as the Englifti did, by
the channel between the iflands of Wohaoo and Mo-
rotoi. The latter did not appear inhabited on the
fide next us, though, according to the Englifti, it is
very populous on the other. It is remarkable, that
in thefe iflands, the moft fertile and falubrious, and
confequently the nioft inhabited parts are always to
windward. Our iflands of Guadaloupe, Martinico,
&c. are fo perfc6lly fimilar to this new clufter, that
every thing appealed abfolutely the fame, at leaft, in
regard to nayiga .i<./ ,
]\Jefli's. pagel J Bernizçt furveyed, with the
minuteft care ana retention, all the parts of Mowee
and Morokirina we coafted, which the Englifti were
jinabl,e to do with accjuraçy, bgcayfe never within ten
leagues of the land.
On the ift June, At ^x in the morning, we were
clear of all the iflands, having employed lefs than
48 hours in thefe fiiryeys, and, at moft, a fortnight to
cftablifti a geographical point of the greateft import^
ance, as it removes from our maps live or fix iflands
which have no real cxiftence. The fifti that followed
us from the neighbourhood of Eafter Jfland to pur
laft anchorage now dif^ppe^red ; and it is worthy of
remark, that the fame ihpal of fifli acconjpanied us
1500 leagues. Several bonitas, woundçd by our fifli-
gigs, * bore marks impoflible to be miftaken, and we
thus recognized each morning the identity of the
W
* A fmall harpoon.
H4 •
m
s »
104 LA ÏBROUIE'S VOYAGE [l786.
iiih we had obferyed the preceding evening. Doubt>
lefs^ had we not put in at the Sandwich iflands, they
would have followed us 2 or 3Q0 leagues further,
till the climate became irreilftible.
»<«t*e«
CHAP. VII.
D^PARTUKE F^OliI SANDWICH ISLA90S-~SIGNS. oy
AFPROACKING THE COAST pP AMERICA— DESCRIEDf
MOUNT ST. ELIAS PISCOVERY OP THE BAY OP
MONTI— OUR- BOATS RECONNOITRE THE ]V[OUTH
QP THE GREAT RIVER BEHRING, AND A VERY
DEEP BAY— THE FAVOURABLE REPORT OP SEVE-
3^AL OP OUR OPPICERS INDUCES US TO PUT INTO IT
—DANGERS INCUHRED IN ENTERING— DESCRIP-
TIO$I OP THIS BAY WHICH I NAMED ?RENCH-
MAN*S BAY AND PORT-t-MANNERS AND, CUSTOMS
OP THE INHABITANTS-;— BARTER W^TH THEM---
JOURNAL OP TRANSACTIONS DURING pUR STAY.
THE eafterly winds continued till we arrived in
30° N. lat. directing our courfe to the north-
ward with fine weather. The frelh provifions we
Bad procured during our fhort ftay at the Sandwich
lilands, enfured falubrious and agreeable food for our
crews during three weeks, though it was impoffible
to keep our pigs alive for want of water and viduals.
I was therefore obliged to have them falted in Cap-
tain Cook's method. Thefe pigs being very fmall,
the largeft not exceeding 20lbs weight, they would
have been foon corroded, and their fubftance partly
deftroyed, if long expofed to the aélivity Pf fait,
for which reâfon we were obliged to confume them
firft.
On the 6th June, in 30** N. lat. the wind fhifted
to S. E. The iky became watery and dull; every
thing
Great
Ocean
AChart
ofrtip
KoR TH'iŒST Coast
of
Ameri c a
37^6-3
thing anflp
^he trade-v
lofs of tbai
pur health,
flay made
the fun, 01
meridian ^
My fear
menced ot
plear iqter\
the feas, \
foggy, b«t
this opinioi
land, and J
eminence
with, their
penetrated;
flattered uç
by nielapc]
Bay, that 1
^aufe of fciJ
ed, yefib
difppfàd us
large \it9m
between d^
a pair of b
^nd breech
from Cape
My furg
to the cre\y
imce of gi
without pe
the moft fa
he fecretly
certainly r
lion £
* The FrcJ
a mixture of
Put lis h'r/ July tofijyi.èy J.S'tockdale.
]7è6.^ mOUKB .THE WORLD* t^S
thing annpurtced that we hid quitted the track cff
^he trade-winds : I found we (ho^ld fbon regret the
lofs of th^t ierene weather which I^ad ti^^tained
pur health, and by favour of which wej Had every
4ay made obfervatipns of the nioon^s ^ifl^nçe froii^
the fun, or, at lead, con^pared thqlnie fi^ine of the
nieridian with that of our time-keeper$.
My fears were top fpeedily r^U^. The fogs com-
menced on the Qth June, "in 34^ N. lat. without a
plear interval till the I4th, in 41?. I aimed thought
the feas, which divide ÉaixQp^ from Amp'^ica, lefs
foggy, but it would be an error irrevocab»^ to adopt
this opinion ; fpr the fogs of Npya Scotia, Newfpundr-
land, and Hudfpn*s ^ay, enjoy an incontedible pre-
eminence of ppapity, tho^gh th,çy can fcarcely vie
with, their unequalled humidityl This rain of fog
penetrated every ^ilor^s baggage, which not a folar ray
nattered us with the pYofpeâ of drying ; and I knew,
by nielapchply experience in my voyage to Hudfon's
liay, that this ^igid humidity was tne moil eflential
fcaufe of (curvy. Although no fymptoms yet appear-
ed, yet ib long a continuance at feâ mud have pre-
difppibd us aU tp that diforder. I therefore ordered
large braziers to be placed under the half-deck, and
between decks where the feamen lay ; I gave each
a pair of boots, and didributed the dufF waidcoats
and breeches I had kept in reforve finceour departure
^m Cape Horn.
My fur^epn, wl^o (bared M.' de Clonard's attention
to the cre>y, propofed to mix with the morning allow-
ance of grpg * a flight infufion of bark, which,
ivithout perceptibly altering its tade, might produce
the mod fali^tary effets. I ordered this mixture to
be fecretly perfprmed, as the crew would otherwife
certainly refufe it ; but as it waaf unperceived, no
pbjeétion arofe tp this praçStice, which would doubt-
* The French Narrator explains in a note, that this grog was
a inixturc of one part of èraru^ and two parts water.
left
I06 LA piROUSE's VOYAGE [l786.
kfs have been ftrenuoufly oppofed, had it been fub-
mitted to the general opinion^
Thefe precautions, though crowned with perfeél
fuccefs, engroflbd not our leifure during our long
paflage. My carpenter, following the plan formed
by M. de Langle, conftruéled a corn-mill, which be-
came extremely ufeful.
The infpeélors of provifions, convinced that baked
gram keeps better than either flour or bifcuit, recom-
mended our taking out a confiderable ftock of com,
which we augmented in Chili. We were furnifhed
with mill-ftones 24 inches in diameter, and 4| thick,
requiring four men to put them in motion. Being
afliircd that M. de Suffren had no other machinery
for his whole fqnadron, we could not doubt they
were fufficient for our little equipment. But when
we began to ufe them, our baker obferved the corn
was merely bruifed, while four men, though relieved
every half hour, only produced 25tb. of ill-ground
flour per day. As our corn fupplied near half our
fubfiftence, we fhould have experienced the greateft
embarrafifment, had not the inventive genius of M. dc
Langle, with the affiftance of a failor, formerly a
journeyman miller, contrived a fpecics of wind-mill
adapted to our purpofe. At firft he employed, with
fome degree of fuccefs, fails turned by the wind, but
foon fubftituted a winch, and obtaining as perfed
flour as that of ordinary mills, ground two hundred
weight per day.
On the 14th the wind fhifted to W. S. W. The
following meteorological obfervations are the refult
of our long experiei'ice. The iky is generally clear
when the wind is only a few degrees to the north-
ward of weft, and the fun appears on the horizon :
from W. to S. W. cloudy, with fome little rain:
from S. W. to S. E., and even to eaft, hazy weather
and extreme bumidity, penetrating into the cabins
and every part of the Ihips. Thus a reference to thç
'ftatc
r -f^'.^ f-t^
17 86. J ROUND THE WOULD. 107
ftate of the winds will always convey to the reader
the ftate of the atmofphere, and be a ufeful guide to
thofe who may fucceed us in this navigation. Should
readers, who amufe themfclves with our adventures,
take an intereft in thofe who have experienced the
difficulties and fatigues attending them, they will not,
perhaps, contemplate with indifference, navigators
who, beyond the limits of the habitable world, and
after a continual contell with fogs, bad weather, and
fcurvy, have explored an unknown coaft, the theatre
of each romance *, that has found too ealy a reception
lamong modern geographers •}-.
Thîi
^ Such as the voyage of Admiral Fuentes, and the pretended «x>
peditions of the Chinefe and Japanefe on that coafi.
t However extraordinary the accounts of the voyage performed
by Admiral Fuentes, or de Fonte may appear, we cannot venture
wholly to rejeô them, when we compare his chart of difcoverie*
with thofe of Cook, La Péroufe, Dixon, and Meares. It appeari
by the difcourfe pronounced by Buache before the Academy of
Sciences, that Lorencio Ferrer de Maldonado found a north paf-
fage by entering a ftrait in Hudfon's Bay, which is the fame as that
which Adfniral de Fonte fell in with when coming from the South
Seas, and laid down in the French charts as Repuyie Bay. The voyage
of Maldonado appears authentic, and is dated 1588, that of Admi-
ral de Fonte 1640, and unlefs it be proved, that he knew of the
former expedition, and made that the bads of a romance, the coin-
cidence between them mull flill leave fome doubts ; and, in geogra-
phy, every doubt ihould be perpetuated, till it yields to the moft
incontrovertible proofs.
Neither the difcourfe of Buache, nor the Spaniflj voyage which
formed its bafis, are yet printed. Thofe who wilh to know all the
jdifputes to which the vovage of Admiral de Fonte gave birth, will
Hiid them in the followmg works.
Explication de la carte des nouvelles découvertes au nord de la
mer du Stid. Var tk Lificy ûft. Paris y \ 7 52.
. Confîdérations géographiques et phyHques fur les nouvelles dé-
couvertes au nord de la grande mer, appelée vulgairement la mer
du Sud. Par Philippe Buache^ isîc. Paris, 1753.
' Nouvelles Cartes des découvertes de Tamiral de Fonte, &c. Par
Je LiJJf, '^cy Pa'isy ''i 7 5 3^
Lettre d'un officier de la marine ruflîenne à un feigneur de la
cour, &c. A Berlin.
Obfervations critiques fur les nouvelles découvertes de l'amiral
fuentes, &'f. Par Robert de Fçivgmdy.fils^ i^c, Paris, i/SS-
t ..■,,.■. i .. ; ■ ' "• Journal
i.- .
■_ V
•.,''■»■■
1 î » ^^
S!
.RI
'■«■KK
Pllf
I
lOS LA perouse's voyage [1786,
This part of America, as far as mount St. Ellas, in
60^, was merely dcfcriecl at a diftance by Captain
Cook, except the port of Nootka, where he put in.
3ut from that mountain to the point of Alalka and
frozen Cape, this celebrated circumnavigator kept in
with the coaft with all the perfcverance and courage he
was known "by all Europe to pplîèfs. Indeed the explo-
ration of that coaft of America, from Mount St. Elias
ta the port of Monterey, though a moft interefting
pbjeéi: to navigation and commerce, required many
years to perform ; and we were aware, that in the
two or three months which the feafon, and the
vaft plan of our voyage, permitted us at moft to de-
vote to it, we fhould leave many objcéts to be in-
veftigated by future navigators. Many ages, per-
haps, will elapfe, before every bay and port of this
part of America is perfedly known. But the tme
direction of the coaft, the determination of the lati-
tude and; longitude of its moft remarkable points,
will attach to our labours a utility which no fcaman
Vrill difputc.
Since our departure from the Sandwich Iflands, and
till our inaking Mount St. Elias, the wind was fair
without a moment's interruption. As we approach-
ed the land we faw fea weed float by, of a fpecies
abiblutely new to us, confifting of a pipe 40 or 50
feet long, terminating in a ball of the iize of an
orange, and refembling the ftem of an overgrown
onion. Whales of the largeft fpecies, divers, and
gulls, announced the approach of land, which, at
length, >ve defcried on the 23d, at four in the morn-
ing, when the fog difperfing, permitted us fuddenly
to perceive a long chain of mountains covered with
fnow, which we might have feen in clear weather at
the ^iftance of 30 leagues further out. We then re-
Journal hiilorique, Mémoires pour I'hiftoire des fciences et des
beaux arts, Journal des Savans, Journal économique, pur Vanm
jy^l.—Frencè Ediicr,
cognized
1780.] ROUND THE WORLD. lOÇf
cognized de Behriog's Mount St. Elias, whofe fum-
mit appeared above the clouds.
The fight of land, which ufually produces agree-
able Tcnfations aflcr a tedious navigation, caufcd in
us but little efFcdl ; for the eye found no pleafure or
repofe on maiîcs of fnow, which covered a naked and
barren foil. Thcfc mountains appeared at fome dif-
tance from the fea, which broke on a flat 1 50 or 200
toifes high. This black platform, as if calcined by
fire, deflitute of every approach to verdure, afTordcd
a ftriking contrail with the whitcnefs of the fnow
which we perceived through the clouds, and ferved
OS a bafis to a long chain of mountains that fcemed
to extend 1 5 leagues from eaft to weft. At firft we
thought them very near us, their fummits appearing
as it were above our heads, the fnow fpreadinc a light
extremely deceitful to eyes unaecuftomed to it.
But advancing nearer, we perceived below the plat-
form low lands covered with foliage, which we mif^
took for iflands, where we expcdled to find fhelter for
our fhips, and wood and water for the crews. I pro-
pofed, therefore, to reconnoitre thefe iflands at a very
fmall diftance, favoured by the eaft winds that blov/
along the coaft. But they prefently chopped about
to the fouthward, the atmofphere became very black
in that quarter of the horizon, and I thought it better
to wait for more favourable weather, and haul clofe to
the wind which blew dead on the fhore. We had
found ourfelves at noon in 59° Q.V N. lat. by obfer-
ration, and 143^ 23' W. long, by our time-keepers.
A thick fog covered the land throughout the day on
the 25th, but on the 26th the weather was very fine,
and the coaft was vifible, with all its windings, at two
in the morning. I ranged along it at a diftance of
two leagues, the depth of water being 75 fathoms,
with a bottom of foft mud. I was very defirous of
meeting with a harbour, and was foon flattered with*
the belief that I had found one.
'■■ I have
\- f.
"f
lîd LA i»ÉROUSE's VOYAGE [l786.
I have already fpoken of a platform 150 or 200
toifes high, forming the bails of immenfe mountain»
fome leagues in land. We foon perceived to the
caftward a low point, covered with trees, which feem-
ed to extend as far a; this plain, and terminate at a
didance from a fécond chain of mountains further to
the eaftward. We all unanimously agreed, that the
platform terminated at the low point of land covered
with trees, that it was an ifland feparated from the
mountains by an arm of the fea, and that it moil lie
cail and weil like the coail, and, confequently, we
fhould iind in that imaginary channel a commodious
fhelter for our ihips,
I ilcered for this point, keeping our lead going, and
fbnnd the fmalleil depth of water 45 fathoms, over a
muddy bottom ; when, at two in the afternoon, I wa»
obliged to anchor on account of the calm. The wind
had been very faint throughout the day, varying from
weil to north. We had obferved at noon, 59° 4 1' N.
lat., and our time- keepers gave 143° 3' W. long., at
three leagues to the S. E. of the woody point, which
I continued to mi (lake for an ifland. At ten in the
morning I had difpatched my long boat under the
command of M. Boutin, to reconnoitre this channel
or bay, and Meflrs. de Monti and de Vaujuas had left
the Ailrolabe on the fame purfuit, while we lay at an-»
chor waiting their return. The fea was unruffled, the
current fet to the S. S. W. at the rate of half a league
an hour, which confirmed me in the opinion, that
if the woody point was not the mouth of a channel,
it muil at leait be that of a great river.
The barometer had fallen one-fourth of an inch in
24 hours, the fky was very black, and every thing an-
nounced that bad weather would foon fucceed the
dead calm which had obliged us to come to an anchor.
At length, about nine o'clock, our three boats returned',
and the officers declared there was neither a channel
nor a river, but the coail formed a conliderable femi*
circular
)780.] KOUND THE WORLD* 111
circular recefs to the Ni E. with 30 fathoms water,
and a muddy bottom, but without (belter from any
wind between , S. S. W. and E. S. E. which are the
mod dangerous. The fca broke with violence on
the beacn, which was covered with drift wood.
M. de Monti had great difHculty in landing ; and
as he was the commandant in this little expedition,
1 called it the Bay of Monti, They added, that the
caiife of our miftake was the woody point joining
fome land much lower than itfelf, and deftitute of
trees, which gave it the appearance of a termiiia-
tion. Meflrs. de Monti, dc Vaujuas, and Boutin,
had taken the bearings of the difterciît points of thià
bay, and the coincidence of their accounts left no
doubt what to determine *. I made fignal to weigh,
and as very bad weather was coming on, I took ad-
vantage of a breeze from the N* W. to run to the
S. E. and get oft' the coad.
• Doubtlefs it will appear extraordinary I fliould controvert the
opinion of three ofl[icers,and maintain that La Péroufâ could f jrni a
ttiore accurate judgment of the coad from on board. It remains
lor the reader to weigh the proofs of my aflèrtion } and fhould any
doubt ftill remain, to confult the voyage and charts of Dixon.
I maintain that the bay of Monti was the Hation where Dixon
nnchored the 23d of May following, under which he was (heltcred
from every wind by the projeélion of an illand that forms a kind of
mole, which he called Port Mulgrave.
Dixon fays, page 166, " The fituation Mr. Turner had pitched
" on for us to anchor in was round a low pomt to the northwan!,
" about three miles up the bay."
And page 1 70, " Thefe ^flands, in common with the rell of the
" coaft, are entirely covered witti pines of two or three different
" fpecies, intermixed here and there with witch hazle, and various
** kinds of bru (h-wood."
Dixon Hxes the latitude of Tort Mulgrave at $9^ 33', and its
long. W. from London 140°, equal to 142° 20' from Peris. L?
ilk
Péroufe fixes the latitude of Monti Bay at 59° 43', and its lo
r42o 40'.
If the three officers, commiflloned by La Péroufe to explore
the bay, did not go to the head of it, ii' is not furprifing they
jhould think it had a continuation of coa'i^ or toat the iittic
i(lands in that part of it flîould conceal tie channel that feparate»
them from the continent, ■■ ■ Fre^jcb Editor,,
'""' The
^aii
iiâ LÀ pébouse's voyàôb [l78é.
The night was calm but foggy, the wind chang-
ing every moment. At length it fettled in thé
caft, and bliew very frefh from that quarter for 24
hours; X
On t* ^ 28th the weather became fitier. We were
ih 59P 19' N. iat. by obfervatioh, and 142° 41' W,
longi by, our time-keepers. The cbaft was covered
with fog, and we could not diftinguifh the points we
had fet the preceding days. The wind was ftill eafterly,
but the barometer rdfe, and every thing announced A
favourable change. At five in the evening We were
but three leagues from land, in 40 fathoms water, ovet
a muddy bottom, ; and the fog having partly difper-
Icd, we made fketches from our hearings^ which
formed an uninterrupted continuation of our pre-
ceding furvëys, and together with our fucceeding
obfervations moll attentively performed, contributed
to complete the general chart of our voyage. Navi-
gators, and thofc in particular who make geography
their ttudy, will perhaps be happy to learn, that to
give dill further preciiion to the configuration and
outline of the coafls and remarkable points, M.
Dagclet verified and correâed the bearings taken with
the azimuth compafs, by the mutual diftances of
the hills, meafuring the relative angles they fomK
with each other by a fextant, and determining the
elevation of the mountains above the level of the fea.
This method, though not rigoroufly exaét, is yet
fufficient for navigators to judge by the height of à
coaft at what diftance it is from them ;. and in this
manner that learned academieian has determined the
height of Mount St. Eiias to be 198O toifes, and
its fituation eight leagues in land *i
On the 29th of June we were, by obf^rvatioti,
in 3Q» IC/ N. Iat* and 142* 2' W. long, by our time-
♦ Cook fays, Motint St. EliaJ lies ii leagues up the land, in
12« 27' Iat. and 219» longitude from the meridian of Greenwich.
7&irJ Foyage, vol. iii.— — /IrrwcA Editor,
keepers,
Î786.] IrouNï) THE V^roRLÏ). us
keepers, having in 24 hours run eight leagues to
the eaftward. The fouth winds and the fogs conti-
nued throughout the 29th, and the Weather was clear
till the 30th at noon ; though at times we perceived
low lands, but never more than four leagues diftant.
According to our reckoning we were five or fix leagues
to the ealiward of the bay, called by Captain Cook
Behring's Bay, and Our foundings were confiantly
from do to 70 fathoms, with a muddy bottom. Our
latitude, by observation, was 58° 55', and our longi*
tude, by the time-keepers, 141*^ 48^ I ftood riglit
in for the land, under ti crowd of fail, with fome light
airs from the W. S. W. We faw to the eaftward
a bay, which appeared very deep, and which I at
ïirft took for that of Behring. Having got within
a league and a half of it, I diftindly perceived that
the lowlands, like thofe - of the bay of Monti, were
united to a more elevated foil, and that, in fa6l,
there was no bay, though the water was whitifh, and
almofl: frefh, which, with every other circumftance,
announced the vicinity of a river, that mud be
very confiderable to have changed the colour and
the faltnefs of the fea for two leagues in the offing.
1 made the fignal to anchor in 30 fathers, over a bot-
tom of foft mud; and difpatchcd the long-boat, under
M. de Clonard, my fécond captain, accompanied ly
Meflrs. Monncron and Bernizet. M. de Langle had
alfo fent off his long-boat, together with his bifcayan
yawl, under the command of Meflrs. Marchainvillç
and Daigremont. Thefe officers returned by noon,
having kept along the (horc as near as the breakers
would permit. They difcovered a fand bank even
with the water's edgey at the mouth of a great river,
difcharging itfelf into the fca by two confiderable
channels, each having a bar, as at the river of Bayonne,
on which the fea broke fo violently, that it was im-
polTible for our boats to approach it. M. de Cloniird
fpent five or fix hours in an unfuccefsful attempt to
Vol. I. I enter,
:f
^\ ' '.fa
• r ' 'If
114 LA PÉROUSê's VOYAéE [l786.
enter, though he difcovered fome fmdke, which proved
the country inhabited, while from our ihip we per-
ceived an unrufted fca beyond the bank, and a bafin
of feveral leagues in breadth and two in depth. It
is probable that with fmooth water, (hips, or at
lead boats, may enter this gulph ; but as the cur-
rent is very ftrong, and as the fea becomes extreme-
ly rough, from one moment to another over the
bars, the very appearance of this place is fufficient
to deter navigators from approaching it. From the
afpeél of this bay I have been inclined to think it
was here Behring landed ; and it is more probable
the lofs of his boat's crew is to be attributed to the
fury of the fca than the barbarity of the Indians*. I
have retained the name of Behring's River, and am
of opinion the ftrait o( that name has no exiftence,
but that Captain Cook, who pafled at a diftance of
10 or 12 leagues, rather conjeélured than a(Slually
perceived it t.
On
*• Here are two miftakes : firft, it was Captain Tfcherikow,
not Sehring, who loll his boats; fecondly, this misfortune oc-
cured in 50* lat. according to 'Mu\\er.'——f^oyages et tUcouvertts
faites par les RuJ/es, page 248 of the French tranflation.— -/r^«fi
Editor,
f There is no doubt the place which La Péroufe defcribes as
Behring's river, is the Behring's Bay of Captain Cook. It re-
mains only to be known, whetiher the change in the colour and
ialtnefs of the water is a fufficient proof that this bight in the
land is à river, and whether the freflmefs of the water may not be
occafioned by the enormous mafles of ice continually falling from
the mountains, while the colour may arife from the foil of the
coaft or of the beach, where the fea breaks with fuch fury.
But whether it be river or bay, or both (for bays being formed
by mountains ftretching into the fea, there may probably be a river
or a torrent within), the identity of the place is proved in the fol-
lowing manner: Conk determined the opening of this bay to be
in 59* 18' of latitude. La Péroufe was to the weftward of the bay,
and made its latitude 59° 20'.
Cook's longitude, when on board, was 220» 19' E. from
ihc meridi^in of Greenwich, which makes 139» 41' W. longitude,
afid adding a" 20' for the difference between the meridian of Green-
wich
1786.J ROUND THE WORLD. ' ^ 115
On the Ift of July, I got under fail with a light
breeze from the S. W. ranging along the land at the
diftance of two or three leagues. While at anchor,
we were, by obfervation, in 59° 7' N. lat. and 141*^
17' W. long, by our time-keepers, the entrance of the
river bearing N. 17° E. and Cape Fair Weath'^jr ^.
5° S. We (leered along the fhore with a light bie^^ze
from the W. at two or three leagues diftance, and
might have perceived the inhabitants by the help of
our glafles had there been any ; but the breakers
appeared to render a landing impoffible» -
On the 2d, at noon, I had Mount Fair Weather
bearing N. 6° E. being, by obfervation, in 58° 36'
N. lat. and by our time-keepers in 140*^ 31'' W.
long, diftance two leagues off (hore. At two, a little
to the eaftward of Cape Fair Weather, we got fight
of a bight, which appeared a very fine bay, and
ftood in for it. When within a league of it, I fent
oiF the jolly-boat, under the command of M. de
Pierrevert, to reconnoitre it, together with M. Ber-
nizet. The Aftrolabe alfo difpatched two boats,
commanded by Mefïi*s. de Flaflan and Boutervil-
liers, on the fame purfuit. We perceived from on
board a great ledge of rocks, behind which the fea
wich and that of Paris, we have 142" i' W. for Cook's longitude
from the meridian of Paris.
La Péroufe fixes his longitude at 1 42» 2', which makes only %
difference of one minute, Capt. Cook was two leagues farther off
from the coaft.
Cook fdw the opening of the bay bearing N. 47^ E.
La Péroufe, who was two leagues neare.- the coaft, faw that open-
ing bearing N. 33'E. •
Cook was eight leagues from the land, and found 70 fathoms
water over r muddy bottom.
La Péroufe was five or fix leagues from the coaft, and had con-
ftantly from 60 to 70 fathoms water, over a muddy bottom.
Had I not already proved my pofition to demonftration, I
would requeft the reader himfelf*^ to fix Capt. 'Cook's place oa
the map, on the 6th of May, 1778, and that of La Péroufe on the
29th of June, 1786, and purfue their trafts, with due rp^ar 1 to the
variation of the needle, as determined by thofe t'',o navigators,
frmh Editor, . ' -
1 2 water
r-.f;
A ' > 11'
, J.
Il6 LA PBROUSR^S VOYAGE [l7ôÇ,
water was very fmooth. This ledge appeared to be
three or four hundred toifes long from eaft to weft,
and to terminate at about two cables length from the
point of the continent, leaving a confiderable open-
ing ; fo that nature feemcd to have formed, at the
extremity of America, a port like that of Toulon,
though both lier plans and her materials were here
exhibited on a more magnificent fcale, for this port
was three or four leagues in depth. Meiîrs. de FlalTan
and Boutervilliers gave the moft favourable report of
it ; they had gone in and out of it feveral times, and
found conftantly feven or eight fethoma water in the
middle of the channel, and five fathoms within 20
toifes of each extremity, while in the interior of the
tay there were 10 or 12 fathoms over a good bot-
tom. From their report I determined to ftecr for the
ciiannel ; and fent our boats to found a- head, with
orders, when we approached the points, to place
themfelves one off each extremity, fo that the ftiips
might only have to pafs betweea them.
We ibon perceived fome fava'jres making fignals
of friendftiip, by difplaying and waving about white
cloaks and various ikins, in the manner of flags.
Several canoes of thefe Indians were fiihing in the
bay, where the water appeared as fmooth as a mill-
pond, while the ledge was covered with furf by the
breakers.. The feà. was very calm, however, beyond
the channel, and this afforded an additional proof
that its depth was confiderable.
At feven in the evening we attempted the paflige^
but the win.d was faint and the ebb fo ilrong, that we
could not poffibly fterti it. The Aitrolabe was carried
out with great rapidity, and I was obliged to anchor,
left I (hould be fwept away by the current, of which
I did not know the direélion; but finding that it
fet towards the offing, I weighed anchor, and re-
joined the Aflrolabe, ftill undecided what plan to
purfuc in the morning. This very rapid current,
which.
•CO. ' -rf
which our officers had not mentioned, checked my
cagernefs to put into this port. I was not ignorant
of the great difficulties to be encountered in enter-
ing and at coming out of narrow paiîès, where the
tides are very ftrong; and, as it was necefîàry to em-
ploy the fummer in exploring the coafts of America,
I feared a forced continuance in a bay, from which
my departure might require the concurrence of many
favorrable circumftances, would be extremely injuri-
ous to the fuccefs of my expedition. However, 1
pafTed the night, {landing off and on, and, at day-
break, I hailed M. de Langle, and communicated
my opinion to him. But the report of his two of-
ficers was very favourable ; for, having founded both
the ftrait and the interior of the bay, they reprefented,
that although the current appeared fo llrong, they
had fcveral times ftemmed it with their boats. M, de
Langle therefore eftecmed this port very commodious,
and his rcafons appeared fo convincing, that I could
not withhold mv afîènt.
This port, which had been difcovered l)y no former
navigator, is iituated 33 leagues to the N. W. of that
of Los Remedios, which is the extreme boundary of
the navigation of the Spaniards, about 224 leagues
from Nookta, and 1 00 leagues from Prince William's
Sound. Should the French government therefore en-
tertain any defign of eftabliihing à faélory on this part
of the American coafl:, other nations cannot claim the
fmallcft right of oppofition *. The fmoothnefs of
the
♦ Since L3 Peroufe explored the north weft coaft of America,
from Mount ^t. Ellas to Monterey, two Englifh ..avigators have
taken the fame roiite, though merely with commercial views.
Dixon Tailed fropi England in September 1785, in the Queen
Charlotte, accompanied by Captain Portiock, in the King George,
and anchored at 0\vliyhee,onepfjheSandwich Iflands, the 26th May
1786. La Péroufe pafTed by Owhvheç the 28th of the fame month ;
anchored at Mowee on the next day, and, quitting itvpn the 30th,
got fight of Mount St. Elias on the 23d June, 1786: while Dixon
quitted Owhvhee Tune 15th, and having fleered for Cook's River,
I 5 did
pn
118 LA pÉnouafi's VOYAGE \i7s6.
the inner part of this bay was very feducing to U8
who were in abfolute neceffity of changing our ftow-
age almoft entirely, in order to get up fix guns from
the bottom of the hold, without which, it would
be very imprudent to navigate feas * fo frequently
infefted with pirates as thofe of China. To this
place I gave the name of Port des Français, or
Frenchmen's Port.
At fix in the morning we fi:ood for the bay with
the lafh of the flood, the x\fl:rolabe preceded me, and
a boat, as on the preceding evening, was fi:ationed qif
each point. The wind was between wefl: and W. S.
W., the entrance lies north and fouth. Thus every
thing appeared favourable. But at feven, when we
were already in the channel, the wind Ihifted to
W. N. W. and N. W. by W. fo that it was necef-
fary to fhiver the fails, and even to throw all a-back.
Fortunately the flood-tide carried us into the bay,
fetting us along the rocks ori the eaft point, at the
difi:ance of half a piftol fliot. I anchored within the
bay, in three fathoms and a half, over a rocky bot-
toni, about half a cable's length from the fliore. The
Aftrolabe anchored upon a fimilar bottom, and in an
equal depth of water.
did not arrive at the north weft coaft of America till the 8th Sep-
tember, which he ranged along from the entrance of Crofs Sound
to that of Nootka, without being able to come to an anchor.
Leaving that coaft on the 28th of the fame month, he returne4
to the Sandwich Iflands, and not till the 23d of May, in the fol-
lowing year, made Mount St. Elias, and caft anchor in port Mul-
grave. The priority of La Péroufe is therefore fully eftabliftied.
Dixon, before his departure from London, was spprifed of the
expedition from France, but never falling in with the French fhips,
was ignorant of their difcoveries.
Captain Meares, in the Snow Nootka, failed from Bengal in
March 1786; touched at Oonolafka in Auguft, and, by the end
of September, arrived at the entrance of Prince William's Sound,
where he wintered : and it was not till 1788 and 1789, that he
ran down the coaft of America. Of his voyage there is yet no
French trarillation. — French Editor.
* We were to arrive China in the beginning of February.
' , ; . During
)786f| ROUND THE WORLB. IIQ
During thirty years experience at fea, I never faw
two (hips fo near deflrudion ; and to meet that fate
at the extremity of the earth, would have rendered
our misfortune ftill more tragical ; but we were now
out of danger. Our boats were inftantly hoifted
out, and carried out our fmall anchors ; and be-
fore the tide had perceptibly fallen, we warped
into fix fathoms water ; yet our heel touched fe-
yeral times, but fo flightly as not to damage the
fhip. Our fituation would not have been at all
difficuitj had we not anchored on a bottom of
rock, extending feveral cables length round us, very
differently from the report of Meiih. de Flafllin and
Boutervilliers. This, however, was no time for re-
fledlion. It was neceiîàry to quit this dangerous
anchorage, to which the rapidity of the current
was a qonfiderable obfjlacle, and its violence obliged
me to drop a bower anchor. I fcjared each mo-
ment left the cable fhould part, and our fhip drive
QP (hore ; and our uneafinefs was much increafed,
when the wind frefhened much from the W. N. W.
Thus our fhip was clofe in with the land, and her
(lern very near the rocks, from which it was impof-
iible to think pf towing her. I therefore ftfuck the
top gallant mails, and waited for the foul weather to
ceafe, which would have been lefs dangerous, had
we even anchored in better ground.
I feat imm,ediately to found the bay, whence M.
Boutin very foon returned with an account, that he
had found an excellent bed of fand in ten fathoms
water, four cables length to the weftward of our an-
choring place ; but that further up the bay to the
northward, he could not llrikv'î ground with a line of
60 fathoms, except within half a cable of the
ftiore, where he found 30 fathoms with a muddy
bottom. He informed me alfo, that the north weil
wind did not penetrate into the inner part of the
Jharbour, where it was abfolutelv caim.
" ' 1 4 " M. crEfcures
4
1
I
îio LA pA»0c««> voyage ' [1786.,
M. dWcurcs had been difpatched, at the famfr
time, td explore the head of the bay, of which he gave
the moil favourable account. He had gone round
an iiland, near which was anchorage in 25 fathoms
water, over a muddy bottom. No place could be
more convenient for creeling oar obfervatory ; wood
already cut lay fcattered along the fhore, and caf-
cades of the fineft water rolled from the fummits
of the mountains into the fea. He had penetrated
to the head of the bay, two leagues beyond the ifland
"which was covered with ice, and perceived the en-
trance of two vaft channels ; but, being eager to
render an account of his miffion, he did not ftay
to examine them. After this account, the poflibility
of penetrating by thefe chai^nels into the interior of
America prefented itfelf to our imagination. The
wind having fallen by four P. M. we towed up to
the fand-bank which M. Boutin had difcovered, and
the Aftrolabe was enabled to get under fail, and gain
the anchorage of the ifland. I rejoined her the next
day, being favoured with a light Wceze from the
E. S. E. and alîifted by our boats.
During the flay we were compelled to make at
the entrance of the bay, we had been conftantly fur-
rounded by canoes of favages, who, in- exchange for
our iron, offered us fifh, otter Ikins, with thofc of
other animals, and various fmall articles of their ap-
parel. To our great aftonifhment, they appeared per-
fectly accuftomed to traffic, and made their bargains,
with as much addrefs as the moft able dealers of Eu-
rope, but of all the articles of commerce, iron alone
was delired with eagernefs ; fome glafs beads were
alfo taken, tho' rather as a makeweight to conclude
a bargain^ than as the bafis of our exchanges. At
length we induced them to take fome plates, and tin
pots, but thefe articles fucceeded only for a time, and
iron was paramount to all. This mct^l was not un-
known to them, for each had a dagger of it hanging
fron^
I786.J ' ROUND THE WORLD. 1^1
from his neck, refcmbling, in ihape, that of the Indian
cry; but without any iimilarity in the hanf'le, which
was only a continuation of the blade, roumied off
vjrithout an edge. This weapon is kept in a (heath
qf tanned leather, and feemed the moll valuable arti-»^
cle of their polieffions. As we examined iheie poig-
nards very attentively, they informed us by (igns that
they were only ufed againfl bears and other beafta
of the foreft. Some were of red copper, but to thefe
they (howed no marks of preference. This metal is
very common among them, being ufed chiefly for
collars, bracelets, and other ornaments, and to arm
the points of their arrows.
It was a great queftion with us where they procur-
ed thefe two metals. Native copper might poflibly
be found in this part of America, and the Indians
might reduce it into flat plates and ingots : but na-
tive iron has no exifl:ence perhaps in nature, or at
leaft is û> rare, that the greater number of mineralo-
gifts have never feen it. * Thefe people cannot be
fuppofed acquainted with the method of reducing
iron ore to the metallic ftate ; and befldes we had
obferved the very day of our arrival fome bead-neck-
laces and trinkets in brafs, which every one knows
■• *
* Virgin or nsttive iron is very rare, yet fome is found in Swe-
den, Germany, Senegal, Siberia, and the ifland of the Elbe. I
have found it at the village of Eria Longa, two leagues north of
Baflia, the capital of Coriica. It pervaded, in great profofion,
the mafs of a rock fituated on the fea fide, and was conft.intly of
an octaiyral form. The exiftence of native iron is further proved
by the fpecimcns in moft of the cabinets of Natural Hiftory, and
by the opinion of Stahl, Linnaeus, MargrafF, &r.
Since, therefore, iron mines exift in America, it may alio con-
tain native iron : though I do not from thence infer, that the iron
fen by La Péroufe among thefe Indians had that origin. I am of
opinion with Cook, they might obtain it either from the Ruffians
who come from Kamtfchatka, and extend their commerce thither,
or by their connexion with the interior tribes, who receive it from
our eftabliihmcnts on the north eaft coall of America. — I'rencb
Edikr.
td
t rijjfl
m
Kits
10,2 LA pérouse's voyage [178G,
to be a mixture of copper and zinc •. Every cir-
cumftance, therefore, indicated that the metals we
ikw came either from the Ruffians, from the fcr-
vants of the Hudfon*8 Bay Company, from feme
American dealers, who travel into the interior of that
vaft continent, or, laftly, from the Spaniards ; but I
Ihall hereafter ihew it to be more probable thefe me-
tals are procured from the Ruffians. We have pre-
fervcd feveral fragments of this iron, which is very
foft, and as eafily cut as lead f ; from which, perhaps,
it is not impoffible but mineralogifts may difcover the
country, and even the mine where it is produced.
Gold itfelf is not more eagerly delired amonç
Europeans than iron in this part of America, which
is an additional proof of its rarity. In fadi, each
individual poflèflës but a fmall quantity, and they
purfue it with fo much avidity, that they employ
every means to procure it. On the very day of our
arrival, we were vifited by a Chief of the principal
villa|j;c, who, before he came pn board, apparently
addrefîëd a prayer to the fun, and afterwards made a
long harangue, which concluded with agreeable
fongs, very fimilar to the chanting in our cathe-
drals, and accompanied by all the Indians in the ca-
noe, who repeated the fame air in chorus. After the
ceremony, almoft the whole company came on boar^,
* Red copper fufed with zipc forms pinchbecjc ; but to obtaii>
brafs it muft be fufed with calimine.
This laû ipentioned mineral undoubtedly contains a portion of
zinc, but it alfo contains an earth, fome fand, martial ochre, and
not unfrequently galena or fulphure of lead. That which contains
little zinc is, however, unfit for making brafa.
The fcmi-metal zinc whei^ impure, may alfo contain pyrites both
ftf fulphure and iron, as well as lead, pfeudo-galena, and a very
hare!, e:u-thy fiibilam e.
Tlius, 'a.cisfore, it appears, that by fufing red copper with pure
zinc, a veiy tiitfereiit metal is obtained from that produced by fu«
nng It With cuiamme.
■Fiench Editor,
■\ 'i'lii: (|iin!'iy indicates a virgin or native iron. — French EJltor.
r i ' ■• and
J786.] ROUND THE WORLD. 123
and danced nearly an hour, finging at the fame time,
which they do with great accuracy. To this Chief Î
made feveral prefents, till he became very trouble-
fome, paffing four or five hours every day on board.
I was obliged to renew my donations very frequently,
for without them he looked difcontcnted, and mur-if
mured threats, which however gave us no alarm.
No fooner had wc taken up our lituation behind the
ifland, than almoft all the favages of the bay flocked
tl)ither; and the noife of our arrival having foon
ijpread in the neighbourhood, feveral canoes came
loaded with otter-lkins, in very confiderable quan-
tities, which the Indians exchanged for hatchets,
and bar iron. They gave us their falmon at firfl for
old hoops, but they foon became more fcrupulous ;
and we could only procure that fi(h in exchange for
nails, or (onie other fmall inflruments of iron. There
is, I think, no country where the fea-otter is fo
common as in this part of America ; and I fhould
not be furprized if a fadlory, extending its commerce
only about 40 or 50 leagues along the coaft, (hould
colleél annually 10,000 Ikins of that animal. M.
Rollin, furgeon of my (hip, Ikinned, difîèâed, and
fluffed the only otter we were able to procure, which
unfortunately was but four or five months old, and
weighed only eight pounds and a half. The Afi:ro-
iabe caught one, which had evidently efcaped from
the favages, for it was feverely wounded, though
it appeared full grown, and weighed 70 pounds. M.
de Langle had it ikinned, in order to ftulFit, but be-
ing at the critical moment of our entering the bay,
that operation was . not performed with fufiicient
f;are, and we were unable to preferve cither the head
or the jaw.
The fea otter is an amphibious animal, better
known by the beauty of its Ikin than any other de-
scription. The Indians of Port des Français, call
them
111
|, «if: I
• !
^1
I
!
ml
u
124 LA pérouse's voyage [i786.
them Jkeeter ; the Ruffians, colry-merjky *, diftin-
guifhing the females by the word majka. Some na-
tural ids have fpoken of it under the name ofyir/Vo-
viavn^ but the defcription of the /ûricoviemtey of M.
dc Buffon, in no refpedl applies to this animal, which
rcfembles neither the otter of Canada nor of Europe,
On our arrival at our fécond anchoring place
we fet up our obfervatory on the ifland, which was
but a muikct-ftiot from our fliips, and there formed
an eftablifhment for the time of our (lay in this port.
Wc pitched tents for our fail -makers and bfack-
fmiths, depofiting there our water-calks, which wc
fet up afrcm. As all the Indian villages were upon
the continent, we flattered ourfelves with refling in
fecurity upon the ifland ; but experience foon proved
lis to be miftaken. Though we had already found
the Indians wrere great thieves, we did not fuppofe
them capable of executing long and difiicult proje6ts
with perfevcrancc and activity. We foon learned to
know them better. They paflled the whole night
watching a favourable moment to plunder us ; but
"we maintained a conftant watch on board, and rarely
could they elude our vigilance. I even eftabliflicd
the Spartan law, to punifli thofe who were unwary
enough to be plundered ; and though wc applauded
not the robber, we demanded no rellitution, that wc
might avoid quarrels, the tragical confequcnces of
which might afford caufe for regret. I was aware
that our extreme lenity would render them info-
3ent, thouG:h I endeavoured to convince them of the
fuperiority of t)ur arms, by firing a gun fliotted in
their prefencc, to fliew them no diflance could pro-
te61 them ; and diicharged a mufket-ball, bcfor;,- a
large company of them, through fevcral folds of a
♦ ArcordinjT to Coxe, ioity-morjiy, or fea-caftor; the female
«natka \ and the young, when uader five months, medvicdky^ &c.
Fftncb Editor.
. . * cuirafj
1786.] • BOUND THE WORLD. 125
cuisars we had purchafcd of them, after their expreillng
by figns, that it was impenetrable to arrows and
poignards, while our Ikilful fportfmen killed the birds
that flew above their heads. I am certain they never
hoped to infpirc us with fear, but their condudl
proved that they believed our patience inexbauftible.
They prefently obliged me to remove our eftablilh-
ment from the ifland, where they landed in the night,
on the fide neareft the offing, traverfed a wood
impenetrable to us even by day, and creeping on
their bellies, like fcrpents, moving fcarcely a leaf as
they went, contrived to plunder feme of our ef-
fedts without being perceived by the fcntincls. They
had even the addrefs to enter in the night the tent
where Meflrs. de Laurifton and Darbaud, who were
on guard at the obfervatory, flept, and carried off a
mulket mounted in iilvcr, and both their clothes,
though placed under their bolfl:er for fecurity. A
guard of twelve men did not perceive them, nor were
their officers awakened. Wc ihould however have
regretted this lofs but little, had they not taken the
original papers of all our allronomical obfcrvations
fince our arrival in Port des Français.
Thcfe obftacles did not prevent our boats from
getting wood and water ; and all our officers were
continually employed at the head of their feveral
working parties. Their prefence, and the dif-
cipline they maintained, contributed to rcftrain the
favages.
While we were making the fpeedicll arrangements
for our departure, Meffi-s. Monneron and Bernizet
took a plan of the bay, in a boat well armed. I
could not fpare any naval officers to accompany,
them, becaufe they were all employed ; but 1 had de-
termined that they (hould, before our departure, ve-
rify the bearings of all the points, and lay down the
foundings. We propofed afterwards to devote 24
:; - !; . - -I V ' '*.. hour»
.-.1 h. ! •'?'(
V^i"
126 LA PÉROU'SES VOYAfeE ^iHÔ,
hours to a boar-hunt, having perceived fome tracks
of that animal on the mountains, and immediately
after fet fail, the advanced ftatc of the feafon not
permitting a longer ftay.
We had already explored the bottom of the bay,
which is perhaps the moft extraordinary fpot on the
whole earth. To form an idea of it, we muft ima-
gine a balin, the middle of which is unfathomable,
furrounded by peaks of great h eight, covered with fnow,
without a blade of grafs to enliven this enormous chaos
of rocks, condemned by nature to perpetual fterility.
I never faw a puff of wind ruffle the furface of the
water, nor is it diflurbed but by enormous mafîès of
ice, which often fall from five different glaciers, with
a thundering noife that re-echoes from the fartheft
recefs of the furrounding mountains. The air is fo
tranquil, and the lilence fo undifturbed, that the hu-
man voice and the fea birds that lay among the rocks,
are heard at the diftance of half a league. We
hoped to difcover, at the bottom of the bay, chan-
nels that penetrated far into the interior of America.
We fuppofed it might lead to fome great river, of
which the bed might lie between two mountains, and
the fource be one of the extenfive lakes to the north
of Canada. Such was the phantom of our imagina-
tion. We got off in our two long-boats ; MefTrs.
c^ ' Monti, de Marchainvillc, de Boutervilliers, and
jL ather Receveur attended M. de Langle, while I was
accompanied by Meflrs. Dagelct, Boutin, St. Céran,
Duché, and Prévoit. We entered the wefternmoft
channel, where we found it prudent not to approach
the fhore, on account of the falls of ftoncs and ice.
At length, after advancing only a league and a half,
we arrived at a cul-de-fac, terminated by two im-
menfe glaciers. We were obliged conftantly to re-
move the mafTes of ice with which the fea was cover-
ed, to penetrate into this inlet, where the water was
fo deep, that a cable length from fhore wt found
no
1786.] ' • HOUND THE WORLD. . 1^7
no bottom with a line of 1 20 fathoms. Meflrs. dc
Largle, de Monti, and Dagelet, and feveral other
officers, were defirous to afcend the glacier, when,
«fter indefcribable fatigues, and advancing to a dif-
tance of fix miles, paffing with great danger the
deepeft fifliires, they only perceived a contant fac-
ceffion of ice and fnow, without any profpeél of a
termination, but at the fummit of Mount Fair-
weather.
My long-boat '•"maining during this expedition
upon the beach, a mafs of ice, which fell more than
400 toifes from it, caufed fo great a difturbancc in the
water, as to overfet the boat, and throw it a confi-
derable diftance on the Ikirts of the glacier. This
accident, however, was prefently repaired, and wc
returned on board, after finifliing, in a few hours>
our expedition into the interior of America.
I had caufed the eallern channel to be examined
by Meflrs. de Monneron and Bernizet. It terminated
like our's, with two glaciers ; and we both took,
draughts of the parts wc had explored.
tOHH-ei
,; j.V'
:;;,,. chap.viil ; ; . _
CONTINUATION OP OUR STAY IN PORT DES FRANÇAIS
— DREADFUL MISFORTUNE WHEN ON THE POINT
OF DEPARTING HISTORY OP THIS EVENT RE-
TURN TO OUR FIRST ANCHORAGE DEPARTURE.
THE next day the Chief arrived on board better
attended, and more decorated than ufual.
After feveral fongs and dances, he offered to fell me
the ifland where our obfervatory was fixed, referving,
no doubt, for himfelf, and the other Indians, the right
of plunder. It was by no means evident, that this
Chief was proprietor of any land. The government
cf
' -TIL •-
l!28 tA PÉROTySE*S VOYAGÉ [l7^6^
of thefc people is fuch, that the country muftbe the
property of the whole people ; yet, as many favages
were witnefles to this contract, I had a right to con-
clude they jrave it their fancftion, and accepted the
offer of the Chief, though I was perfuaded that the
contrad^ might be invalidated by various tribunals,
fhould the nation ever plead againfl us : for we had
no proofs that the vvitneflès were their reprefentatives,
or the Chief the true proprietor. I gave, however,
feveral ells of red cloth, fome hatchets, iron in bars,
and nails. I alfo gave prefents to all his fuite. The
bargain being thus concluded, 1 fent to take pofîèf-
iîon with the ufual for.nalities ; burying a bottle
which contained an infcription to that effeél, and
with it one of the bronze medals ftruck before our
departure from France.
The principal obje6t, however, of our putting in-
to port, was obtained. Our guns were mounted,
and our. ftowage completed, and we had taken on
board as much wood and water as at our departure
from Chili. No port in the world can afford more ad-
vantages for accelerating this employment, frequently
fo difficult in other countries. Cafcades from the tops
of the mountains poured their limpid waters into our
caflcs as they lay in the boat, and wood ready cut
was flrcwed along a beach wafhed by an unruffled
fea. The plan of Meffrs. de Monneron and Bcr-
nizet was completed, as well as the meafure of the
bafe-line by M. Blondela, by which Mefirs. de Langlc,
Dagelet, and moft of the officers, had trigonometri-
cally meafured the height of the mountains. Wc
have only to regret the papers containing the obfcr^
valions of M. Dagelet, and even this misfortune was
nearly repaired by means of the different notes wc
found. In (hort, we conlidered ourfclves as the
moft fortunate of navigators, to have arrived at fo
great a difhince from Europe, without one of our
crew being fick or exhibiting any fvmptoms of fcurvy.
^ ' But
1786.} * Hound THE WORLD. 4,, 1Q,Q
But the greateft of inisfortunes now awaited us,
without the poiîîbility of prevention by foreiight : ,
and it is with the keeneft ferifations of grief I deli*
neatc a difailer a thoufand times more cruel than all
the maladies or calamities of the mod tedious voy-,
age. I yield unwillingly to the duty I have under-
taken, of relating an event which I will not deny to
have given birth to feelings conftantly fucceeded by
tears, and which can only be allayed by the foothing
hand of time. Each object that prefcnts itfelf, • each
moment that paiîès, but recals the lofs we fuftered, in-
circumllances apparently the moft fecurq from fo.
great a misfortune.
I have already faid the foundings were to be laid
down on the draught of Meflrs. de Monneron and
Bernizet, by the fea-officers. Confequently the yawl
of the Aftrolabe, under the orders of M. de Marchain-
ville, was appointed to be in rcadinefs the next day.
I prepared that of my (hip, as well as the jolly boat,
of which I gave the command to M. Boutin. M.
d'Efcures my firil lieutenant, and knight of St. Louis,
commanded the Bouflble's yawl, and was chief of this
little expedition. As his zeal, however, appeared
fometimes too unbounded, I deemed it prudent to
commit his inllrudlions to writing : and the details of
prudence I required were fo minute, that he alked'
if I took him for a child, adding he had command-
ed fhips of the line. I explained my motives in a
friendly manner, telling him, M. de Langle and my-
felf had founded the channel of the bay two day»
before, and that I found the officer who command-
ed the fécond boat that accompanied us, had pafled
too near the point, on which he had even touch-
ed; adding, that young officers efleem it a point
of etiquette, during a liege, to afcend the parapet
of the trenches, and that the fame fpirit induces
them to brave the rocks and breakers they encounter
at fea : whereas this inconfiderate courage might
Vol.. I. He, occalion
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130 ' LA PÉBOUSE's VOYAGE [l786.
occafion the moft fatal efFeéts in an expedition like
oiirs, where fimilar dangers occur every moment.
After this converfation I delivered him the following
inftruétions, which I read to M. Boutin. They will
explain his miflîon,- and my precaution, better than
a long dilïèrtation.
• Written Jnftru£iions delivered to M. d'Efcures hy
M. de la Péroufe,
' « Before I declare to M. d'Efcures the objed of his
qiiffion, I premife that he is exprefsly charged not to
expofe the boats to any danger, or approach the chan-
nel, (hourd the fea break there. He will fet off at
fix in the nioming, with two other boats under the
" command of Meifrs. Marchainville and Boutin,
** iand found the bay from the little creek to the eaft-
** ward of the two Mammelon or forked hills. He will lay
*^ down the foundings on the chart I have delivered
*f him, or fketch one himfelf, from which they may be
*f transferred. Should the fea not break in the chan-
nel, but only have a fwell, as this work is not prefl«
ing, he may defer the founding it till another day,
" for he will remember that all operations of this
" nature, when performed with difficulty, are ill exe-
^* cuted. Probably the beft time to approach is at
^* flack water, about half pafl eight. Should cir-
" cumllances at that time be favourable, he v ill
" endeavour to meafure its width by a log-line,
" and place the three boats in parallel diredions,
" founding acrofs the channel from eafl to weft. He
*' will afterwards found it from north to fouth. But it
" is fcarcely probable he can take thefe fécond found-
" ings the fame tide, becaufe the current will have
*' acquiried too much ftrength.
- " While M. d'Efcures is waiting for flack water,
" he will found the interior of the bay, particu-
*' larly the creek behind the Mammelons, where, I
^' am of opinion, there is very good anchorage. He
. , «;vill
1786.] ' ROUND THE WORLD. ■ 131
« will endeavour alfo to lay down on the plan the
« limits of the rocky ground and fandy bottom, in
" order to make the good ground perfei^ly known. I
" am of opinion, that where the channels to the
" fouthward of the ifland appear open, towards the
" point of the Mammelons, there is a good fandy
" bottom. M. d'Efcures will verify this conjecture.
" But I again repeat, that I rcqueft him not in the
" leaft to relax from the fevered prudence.'*
After fuch inftruélions delivered to a man 33 years
old, who had commanded men of war, what dan-
ger could I fear ? How many pledges of fecurity did
I not poflefs ?
Our boats put off according to my directions, at
fix in the morning, on an expedition which was at
once a party of pleafure, of information, and of uti-
lity. They were to hunt, and then breakfaft be-
neath the foliage of the trees. I aflbciated with M.
d'Efcures, M. de Pierrcvcrt, and M. de Montarnal,
the only relation I had in the navy, and to whom I
was attached as tenderly as if he were my fon.
Never did a young officer afford me a warmer hope,
and M. de Pierrevert had already acquired what I
expeéled the former very fpeedily to attain.
The feven bed foldiers of the detachment com-
pofed the crew of this yawl, in which the chief
pilot of my (hip alfo embarked to take the foundings.
The next in command to M. Boutin in the jolly-
boat was lieutenant M. Mouton. The Aftrolabe's
boat was commanded by M. de Marchainville, but I
was uninformed whetheraccompanied by otherofficers.
At ten o'clock our jolly boat returned. Sur-
prifed at this unexpeéled difpatch, I enquired of M.
Boutin before he came on board, if any thing had
happened ; fearing, at firft, fome attack of the favages.
M. Boutin's manner iucreafed my alarm, for I ob-
ferved the deepeft expreflion of grief in his counte-
nance. He immediately informed me of the dread-
K 2 ful
h til
\\\i"^''^'
181 LA PÉRÔUSE's VOYAGE {\79^,
fui wreck he had juft witnefïèd, He had himfclf
cfcaped but by the firmnefs of his fnind, which pre-
fented to him all the refources that remained in the
midft of the greateft danger. Obliged to follow his
commander into the midft of the breakers which fet
into the channel, while the tide was running out
at the rate of three or four leagues an hour, it oc-
curred to him to lay his boat's ftern to the fea which
thus pufhed her forwards, fo as to avoid filling while
(he was driven out of the harbour, ftern foremoft, by
the tide. He foon faw the breakers a- head of his
boat, and found himfelf in the open fea. More anxi-
ous for the iafety of his comrades than his own,
he Ikirted the breakers in hopes to fave fome of them.
Though he repeated his attempt, he was ftill driven
back by the tide, till at length mounting on the
ihoulders of M* Mouton to command a more extcnfivc
view, he found his exertions in vain. All had difap-
|)eard, all were fwallowed up ! and M. Boutin re-en-
tered at ilack water. The fea then became fmooth,
and this oiEcer entertained fome hope of the Aftro-
labe's yawl ; having only feen ours go down. M.
de Marchainville was at that tiipe a full quarter of a
league from any danger, in a fea as perfectly undif-
turbed as the beft fheltered port. But that young of-
ficer, urged by too imprudent a generoiity, fince all
affiftance was impoffible, and having too elevated a
mind, and too fearlefs a courage, to make this reflec-
tion while his friends were in extreme danger, flew
to their aid, precipitated himfelf among the fame
breakers, and falling a viâim to his own generofity,
and his difobedience to his commanding officer, was
involved in the fame fate.
M. de Langle foon came on board my fhip qually
overcome with grief as myfelf, telling me, with
tears, that the cataftrophe was even greater than I
thought. For, fîncc our departure from France, he
had made an inviolable rule never to difpatch the two
brothers
Î786.J ROUND THE WOBLU. 133
brothers (Meflrs. la Borde Marchainville, and la Btrde
Boutervilliers) upon the fame duty, and had, on this
occafion, alone yielded to their defire of hunting and
amufing themfelves together; for we had both con-
fidered the expedition in that view, thinking them
as little expofed to danger as in the road of Breft,
or in the fincft weather.
The canoes of the favages came at the fame mo-
ment to announce this calamitous event. The figns
of thefe uncultivated men exprefled their having be-
held the lofs of our two boats, and that afliftance
was impoffible. We loaded them with prefents, and
endeavoured to make them i^nderftand that all our
riches fhould belong to whofoever could faye a Angle
man. i^
Nothing could have afFeéled their humanity to a
greater degree. They ran to the fea fide, and fpread
themfelves on both fides of the bay. I had already fent
my long-boat, under the command of M. de Clonardj,
to the eaftward, where, had any one the good for-
tune to fave himfelf, he would probably have landed.
M. de Langle went to the weftvvard to leave nothing
unexamined, while I remained on board to take care
of the two (hips, with the precautions necefilhry to de-
fend us againfl: the favages, towards whom, prudence
required us to be ever on our guard. Almofi all
ihe officers, and feveral others, followed Mefirs. de
Langle and Cionard, who went three leagues along
the beach, without perceiving the fmallefi: frag-
ment thrown upon it. I had, till then, indulged
a ray of hope : for the mind palfcs with difficulty
from a flate of happinefs to fo profound an abyfs
of grief. But the return of our boats foon diffipated
the illufion, and threw me into a flate of conflerna-
tion and defpair, not to be defcribed by the moft
nervous language.
I fhall give the account of M. Boutin, the friend
K3 .of
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134 LA péROUSE'S VOYAGE (^1786.
of M. d'Efcures, thou^içh we are not agreed as to the
imprudence of that officer.
Narrative of M. Boutin,
" On the 13th of July, at 50 minutes paft five in
** the morning, I quitted the Bouflble in the jolly-
** boat, with orders to foltew M. d'Efcures, who
" commanded our yawl. M. de Marchain ville, with
" the command of that of the Aftrolabe, was to
join us. The inftru6tions delivered to M. d'Ef-
cures by M. de la Péroufe, and communicated to
me, charged him to employ thefe three boats to
*' found the bay, to lay down the foundings, accord-
" ing to the bearings, on the draught which had
" been given to him ; to found the channel, if the
*' water was fmooth, and to meafure its breadth.
♦' But he was exprefsly ordered not to expofe the
** boats under his command to the leaft danger, or
*' to approach the channel, (liould the fea at ail
** break, or even were there any fwell. After hav-
*' ing doubled the wefternmoft point of the ifland,
** near which we lay at anchor, I obferved that the
" fea broke entirely acrofs the channel, and that it
*' was impoffible to (hew ourfelves before it. M.
<' d'Efcures was then a-head, lying on his oars,
" ' and feemingly waiting for me ; but as foon as I had
" approached him within muiket-fhot, he ftood on-
*' ward, and, as his boat rovVed better than mine, he
" repeated the fame manoeuvre feveral times, with-
out my being able to join him. At a quarter paft
feven, having conftantly fleered for the channel,
we were within two cables length of it, when the
yawl of our fhip put about. I followed his mo-
*^ tiens, keeping in his wake, and we fleered back to
" re-enter the bay, leaving the channel behind us..
** My boat was aÔern of our yawl, but within hail,
"an4
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jbçr«^<
I7ô60 ROUND THE WORLD. 133
** and I perceived that of the Aftrolabe a quarter of
Jf » league witi^inlho bay. M. d'Efcures then hailed
s^^ith a ha%h, and iàid-r^T^M think the beft
- we can £ i$ to biea^, for the fea break»
in tile H^Hnel.** I anfwcred— « Ccrtàiflu
4ur labour willbe confined *K>
^ the^ftndv bav, that is onttH
fCffif iHf^* n M. cic Kerrevert, mho
1^* b^tft was going to an^i^/
^ i :tbe (»|ÂeffQ coail, lie perccC^
away by the ebb, which Irfib
hb^ats rowed with the greatell
iÉBjaihJifard, in order to get furtbe^
fâoçi^fi^iciMi^ wMchwas ftill a, hundred ««^kTc»
^f '^il^aipdi i /itutt Éè^^^ no appreheniioQi j»a % get^
, ^^^ tng ikia <Uftaiioe^<»ir only 20 toiies on 0& me we
'fffitM ttfH tJ^I^Di^ on the beach. After pulling
^thatwe
:obraifv)i»f«
fOmu^
end^vo
Candour yawl
*,* we .wcjte thi
lout bein j;abk to ftem m tide,*
lyain, tPgat^tlie eaftem ihore;'
was arbâd^ attempted, though'
i|l«j|p$ that to the weilwiurdf
_ Hbliged to put about again td'
" tb» nortbwm^toftiroidi^lling in the trough of the
<* th« Weii^ers. TktfiisÛ. Teas beginning lo breal?
**; 1^ oear iny boat ; I. dropped my gi^apneh which
<f ji^W^erdid not take botdi and luckily the i^pe*
*f jaQt l^ing ^eni^d to a bench, it ran out thwart end'
^< for end,' ai^d dîfburthençd u« of a weight which'
*/ ^ffh(t have proy/àd fatal. { was inûantly in the
** vm^e q£ top hAavieu leas, wihich almoft filled*
f thetkoat^ Howev^ fhe did not iink, ai\d conti-
'< nued to fleer, f^ tliat I ^ouM always keep her
^ern. to the bi:eakers, which afforded me gteat<
^^^fcopes of ^oapngthe danger.
. f?^ Our yawl litd got to a difUnce white t was*
^; letting , go 4i<K. grapnel, but was not amoiig the
[lii^bitAkerstilll^w minutes afler. I lofl fi^t of
1Ç /hiçr when I fhipped the firû, fea^ but in onjç.of
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ISd I.A péROVâ&*S VÛYAOfe . [1786.
** thofe moments when I was at the top of them, I
** again faw her going down, 30 or 40 toifes a-hcad,
** lying broadfide to, but I could perceive neither
•* men nor oars. My only hope had been her
*' ftemming the current, and I was but too cer-
«^ tain (he muft unavoidably be loft, if ihe fhould
•< be drifted out by it j for to efcape there, a boat
" ** muft be able to anfwer her helm when full of
f water, in order to avoid overfetting ; unfortu-
f' nâtely none of thefe qualities belonged tp our
*' yawl.
** I was ftill in the midft of the breakers, look-i
. " ing out on each fide, and faw aftern of my boat
^ that the waves formed a chain towards the foutb,
^ extending as far as my eye could follow it. The
** breakers fecmed al fo to run a great way out to the
** weftward, and I perceived, at length, that could
^ I but gain 50 toifes to the eaftward, I (hoiild
find a lels dangerous fea. I tried every efïbrt to
<* fucceed in that obje6t, pulling away to (larboard
** between the waves, and at 25 minutes after feven
** J was out of every danger, having nothing to en-
^ counter but a heavy fwcU and a (hort fea, occa-
^* fioned by the breeze from the W. N. W.
** After baling the water from my boat, I confi-
<* dered of the beft means to aflift my unfortunate
^* Companions, but from that time no ray of hope
<^ dawned upon my mind.
** From the moment I had perceived our boat go
^* down among the breakers, I had conftantly kept
*' pulling to the eaftward, and coiiM not get clear of
** them for fome minutes. It was therefore impoffi-
^ ble for men drawn into the middle of fo rapid a
" current to get out of its direélion, which miuft in-
'^ «viitably carry them along for the remainder of the
*' tidij» which mn out to the offing till 45 minutes
•* paft «ight : nor could the beft fwimmer refill,
<* ^VW fpra ^ «wments. the force of thefe waves.
i' Yet
(t
l^ySÔj HOUND THB WORLD. 13/
^' Yet as I could make no reafonable fearch, but in
<' the dire<5lion of the current, I fleered back to the
♦* fouthward, keeping clofc along the edge of tho
f< breakers on my ftarboard hand, and changing m^
** courfe every inftant to get near Ibme lêa-wolve§
" or fea-^wced, which, from time tq tjme, deluded
** my hopes.
" As there was a great fwell, my view became
f« very extenfive, when on the tops of the waves ;
** and I could have perceived an oar or § piece of
" wreck at more than 200 toifes diftance,
" My eyes were foon direéled to the eaftern point
^* of the channel, where I perceived men jnakin?
** lignais with their cloaks. Thefe, as I afterwarcfe
** learnt, were iavages ; but at iirft I took them for
** the crew of the Aftrolabe's yawl, and imagined
*' fhe waited for the turn of the tide to come to our
^* alïîftance ; little did I think my ill-fated friends
** had already fallen vidims to their own generous
f* courage.
» " At three quarters paft eight * the tide having
" turned, there were no longer any breakers, but
** only a heavy fwell ; and I continued my fearch in
" that fwell, following the fct of the ebb, which
" was fpent, but was equally unhappy in my fe-
" cond attempt. At nine' o'clock, perceiving the
*^ flood came fix)m the S. W. that I had neither
" provifions, grapnel, nor fails ; that my crew was
" wet and cold ; and fearing left I fhould not be
♦' able to re-enter the bay, when the tide fhould
^* have acquired its full flrength ; obferving alfo that
" even then it fet violently to the north-eaft, which
** would have hindered me from getting to the
'* fouthward, where only I mufl have continued my
, * Half p,alf eight was the time I 'had appointed in my inftrue-
tions for them to approach the channel without danger, becauib the
current would then in all events have r\m inwards. It wa^ a quar^-
paft feven when the boats were lofl. -. w, • "
/ fearch.
138 LA P£ROUSE*S VOTAOE [1786.
&arch, if the tide had permitted, I re-entered the
bay fleering to the northward.
" The channel was already nearly (htit in by the
£. point, and the Tea Aill broke on the twp points^
" but was finooth in the middle. At length I gained
the entrance, keeping very clofe in with the lar-
board point, on which the Americans ûood, who
made iignals to me, and whom I had taken for
my countrymen. Their geftures exprefled that
they had ièen two veflcls overfet, and not per-
ceiving the Aftrolabe's yawl, I was -but to well af-
** fured of the fate of M. de Marchainville, with
whom I was too thoroughly acquainted to ima-
gine he would refled: on the inutility of the dan-
ger to which he expofed himfelf. Yet as we encou-
rage hope to the lail, a faint poiîîbility ilill flat-
'* tered me that I (hould find him on board, whither
*' he might have gone to procure afïiflanc ; and the
" firfl words I uttered on my return to the (hip were,
" Have you heard of Marchainville ?'* Thejanfwer,
" No, afTured me he was loft.
'* After all thefe details I muft explain the mo-
** tives to which I attribute the conduct of M. d'Ef-
5* cures. As it was impofïîble he fhould entertain
an idea of getting into the channel, his only de-
fign mufl have been merely to approach it, while he
" beheved himfelf at a diftance more than fufficient
to avoid danger : but of that diftance neither he,
nor myfelf,nor the 18 perfonswith us formed an ac-
curate judgment. I cannot fay how far this miftake
is pardonable, nor why it was impofïible to know
" the violence of the current ; for though it may
" be thought I would excufe myfelf, I repeat that
** I believed our diftance more than fufficient ; and
'^ even the appearance of the coaft, which feemed
to fly to the northward with incredible fwiftnefs,
did not alarm, though it aftonifhed me. With-
out running into a detail of all the caufes which
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1786.J BOUND THE WOULD. 13^
<< contributed to infpire us with a fatal confidence, I
" cannot refrain from obferving, that on the very
" day we entered this bay, our boats founded the
" channel for more than two hours, in every direc-
" tion, without finding any current. It is true,
" when our fhips prefented themfelves before it,
*' they were driven back by the ebb ; but the
" wind was fo faint, that, at the fame time, our
" boats ftemmed the tide with the greateft facility.
'• Laftly, on the nth of July, the day of the full
" moon, both our commanders, in perfon, with {&•
" veral officers, founded this channel, went out with
" the ebb,- and returned with the flood, without
" remarking any thing which could afford the leafl:
" fufpicion of any danger, efpecially with boats well
" manned. We may therefore conclude, that on
'' the 1 3th of July the violence of the current was
" occafioned by fome adventitious caufe ; fuch as
*^ an extraordinary melting of the fnows, or tem-
** peftuous winds, which, though they did not pe-
" netrate iptp the bay, doubtlefs had blown ftrong in
" the offing.
** M. de Marçhainville was a quarter of a league
" within the channel, when I was drawn into it, and
" from that moment I faw him uo more ; but all who
" know him will readily imagine what his noble and
" generous charaéler would lead him to attempt. It
is probable when he perceived our boats among
" the breakers, unable to conceive how we could
" poffibly be drawn in by it, perhaps he fuppofed
" a grapnel rope had fnapped, or an oar been loft. At
" that inftant he might have rowed to us, up to the
" edge of the firft breakers, and feeing us ftraggling
*^ with the waves, he would liften to his courage alone,
" and endeavour to pafs through the breakers to affift
" us, even at the rilk of periihing with us. Such
•* a death was indeed glorious for him ; but how
'* cruel muft be its remembrance to him, who, tho*
efcaped
«
((
140 I.A p^rouse's voyage [1786,
♦* efcaped from the danger, can never again behold
*' bis companions who (bared it, or the heroes who
'* came to his afliftance.
•* Far be it from me to omit any eiïèntial fa6^,
*' or miftate thofe I relate. M. Mouton, the lieu-
" tenant, who was fécond in command of my boat,
** is able to correct my errors, if my memory has
^* deceived me. His firmnefs, added to that of the
" coxfwain and the four rowers, contributed not a
" little to our fafety. Even in the midft of the
" breakers my orders were executed with all the ac-
♦* curacy of the moft unembarrafled fituations.
(Signed) <* Boutin."
It now only remained for us to quit with expedition
ft country which had proved fo fatal to us. Some de-
lay, however, was due to the families of our unfortu-
nate friends. Too precipitate a departure would have
left doubts and inquietudes in Europe, where it could
not have been imagined the current extends at moft
only a league out of the channel ; that neither the
boats nor their crews could have been drawn in frorn
9 greater diftance, and the fury of the fca in that
place left us no hope of their return. If againft all
probability any one had been able to return, as he
mull be in fome part of the environs of the bay,
I determined to wait feveral days longer. How-
ever I quitted the anchoring place of the ifland, and
removed to a birth on the fandy flat, at the entrance
on the weftern ihore. I devoted five days to this
pafîàge, which is only a league, during which we
experienced a gale of wind from the eaftward, which
would have greatly endangerfed us, had we not been
at anchor on a good bottom of mud ; happily our
anchors did come home, as we were without a cable's
length of the (bore. The contrary winds had detain-
ed us much longer than I had intended to remain, and
we did not fail till the 30th of July. Eighteen days
after
l^SÔ.] ftOUKD tHB WORLD. l4t
ftfler this event, which it has given me Co much pain
to defcribe, and of which the remembrance will
render me for ever unhappy. Before our departure
we erc6led a monument to the mempry of our brave
companions on the iflnnd, in the middle of the bay,
to which I gave the name of Pl/Je du Cénotaphe, or*
Monument Ifland. M. dc Lamanon wrote the fol-
lowing infcription, which he buried in a bottle, at
the foot of the monument i
*« At the entrance of this port 21 brare Mafiners pertflied.
** Reader, mingle your tears with cur's !
** On the 4th of July, 1 786, the BoulTole and Aflrdabe frigates
«arrived in this port, having left Breft the ift of Auguft, i7«5.
" Through the care of M. de la Péroufe, Commodore of the ex*
" pedition, M. le Vicomte de Lanfle, Captain of the other frigate,
" MefTrs. Clonard and de Monti, fécond Captains of the two ihips
** and of tlie furgeons and other oncers, none of the maladies,
'* the ordinary confequence of long voyages, had then affcâed the
** crews. M. dc la Péroufe and all of us rejoiced that we had con»
" from one end of the world to the other, through all kinds <^
" dangers, and having vifited nations of reputed favages, withotit
" lofing one man, or fpilling one drop of blood- Tiie 1 3th of July
** three .boats departed at five in the morning» to lay down the
" foundings of this bay on the draught. They were under the com-
" mand of M . d'Ëfcures, a lieutenant, and a knight of St. Louis,
** to whom M. de la Péroufe had delivered written inftruétions, ex-
** pre&ly charging him not to approach the current, by which how*
" ever he was drawn in, when he thought himfelf at a fufficient
" diftance. MefTrs. de la Borde, brothers, and M. de FlafTan, who
*' were in the boat of the other (hip, courageoufly expofed them-
" felves to the fame danger, in attempting to aflift their compa-
*^ nions, but, alas! they iTiared the fame fate. The third boat was
" under the orders of Lieut. M. Boutin, who, boldly ftruggling
•' with the breakers, made ufelefs efforts, for feveral hours, to afRft
*' his friends, and was indebted for his own fafety only to the fuperior
" conftruâion of his boat, his own prudence, and that of his fe-
** cond in command, Lieut. M, Laprife Mouton, and the adivity
♦' and prompt obedience of his crew, confifting of John Marie,
«'coxfwain, Lhoftis, ie Bas, Corentin Jers, and Monens, Tea*
<* men. The Indians appeared to (hare in our grief, which is ex<
<' tremc. On this 30th of July, moved and foftened, though not
<' difcouraged by misfortune, we proceed on our voyage.
fm
142
LA PAROUS B*8 VOTAOB
17 è6.
Namn of the Officen, Soldiers, and Sailors, loft on the 13th of July, «t
a quarter pail feven in the morning.
OF THB BOU8SOLI.
Ofieers. — Meflh. d'Efcures, de Pierrevert, de Montarnal.
Ovw.— Le Maître» chief pilot) Lieutor, corporal and cox*
IWain ; Prieur, Fraichot, Berrin, Bolct» Fleury, Chaub, foldiers )
the eldeft not 33 years of age.
or THB ASTROLABE.
Q^rrr/.— MefTrs. de la Borde Marchainvillei de la Borde Bou*
tervilliers, brothers ; and FlaflTan.
Cmu.---Soulas, corporal and coxfwain ; Philiby, Julien le Penn,
and Pierre Rabicr, foldiers. Thomas Andrieux, Goulven, Tarreau,
Guillaume Duqueihe, all three top- men, in the prime of life.
Our Hay at the entrance of the bay afforded us a
fund of information on the manners and cullomsof
the favages, impoflible to be obtained at our former
anchorage. For our Ihips being at anchor near their
villages, we vifited them every day, and as often receiv-
ed caulb of complaint, though our condu6t towards
them never varied, and we conftantly afforded them
proofs of our gentlenefs and benevolence.
The 22d of July they brought us fome pieces of
the wreck of our boats, thrown by the fea on the
caftern ihore, very near the bay, and made us com-
prehend, by figns, that they had buried one of pur
unfortunate companions on the ihore, where he had
been thrown by the waves. Upon this information,
Meflrs. de Clonard, de Monneron, and de Monti,
fet out immediately, direfting their courfe to the eaft-
ward, accompanied by the favages, who had brought
thefe pieces of wreck, and whom we loaded with pre-
fents.
Our officers went three leagues over rocks and
ilones on a dreadful road. • The guides every half
hour exaéled a frefti compenfation, or refufed to pro-
ceed, and, at length, ran into the woods, and took to
flight. Our officers too late perceived their account
to be a mere trick invented to obtain more prefents.
During
f
1786.1 ' ROUND THB WORLD. 143
Durinff their route they faw immenfe forei^s of firs
of thelargeft dimeniions. They meafured fome that
were five feet French in diameter^ and apparently
more than 140 in height.
The account they gave of this artifice of the fava-
'ges created no furprife, for the addrefs of thefe
people in ftealing and cheating is without a parallel.
Meilrs. de Langle and Lamanonr, with feveral ofHcers
and naturaliûs, had, two days before, made an excur-
iion to the weftward, of which alfo thefe fad enquiries
were the objeé)', though purfued with as little fuccefs.
They met with a village of the Indians, lituated on
a fmall river, entirely blocked up with flakes for
catching falmon. We had for fbme time fufpeâed
thefe filh came from that part of the coaft, but were
hot certain till this difcovery fully fatisfied our curio-
fity, and M. Duché de Vancy took a drawing illuftra-
tive of the manner of performing this fifhery *. The
falmon endeavouring to afcend the river, are ob-
ftruéled by the flakes, which being unable to pafs,
they return towards the fea, and, in their paffege,
jneet with very narrow bafkets clofed at the end, and
placed in the angles of this caufeway, when having
once entered, they are unable to efcape. This fifhery
is fo abundant, that both our fhips crews had a great
quantity of fifh during our flay, and each fhip falted
down two hogfheads of them.
Our travellers alfo met with a moraif, which
proves thefe Indians bum the dead bodies, preferving
only their heads, one of which was found wrapped
up in feveral fkins. This kind of monument confifts
of four flrong flakes, fupporting a fmall wooden
chamber, where the afhcs are depofited inclofed in
chefts. They opened thefe chells, unfolded the
fkins which envelloped the he?ids, and having thus
gratified their curiolîty, fcrupuloully replaced every
* This drawing has been loft.
t I have prcferved the term Mra/, becaufes it cxprcfTes, better
than that of tmt, an expoûtion to the open air.
thing
144 LÀ PÀAOUSSV VOTÀOB [1766.
thing în its former il«te, adding ibveral prefents of
glafs, beads, and inUruments of iron. The lavages
who bad witneiïèd this v^fît, fhewed feme marks of
inquietude, but did not fail ipeedily to carry olf the
prefenta our travellera had left ; and other enquirers
going to the ikme place the next day, found nothing
Ut the afhea and head. They alfo left prefents,
which had the fame &te with thofe of the preceding
travellers, and no doubt the Indians wiOied for many
fuch viûtaqts every day. But though they permitted
us, with fome reluâance, to vifit their cemeteries,
they would not fnifer us to explore their huts,
which we were not allowed even to approach, till
their wives, the moft diigufting creatures in the uni^
vcrfe, had been prcvioufly removed.
Every day we obferved a frefli fucceiHon of canoes
entering the bey, and every day we beheld entire
villages remove, and yield their place to others. The
Indians apparently dread the channel, and never
truAed themfelves but at flack water ; and we could
diilindlly perceive with our flai&s, that when they
arrived between the two points, their Chief, or at
leail the mofl coniiderable perfonage among them,
rofe up and flrctched his arms towards the fun, as
if addrefling a prayer to him, while the reil paddled
with all their firenzth. On making fome enquiries
concerning this cultom, we learnt that of eight large
canoes^ leven had been wrecked in the channel fome
time ago, ana one only was iaved, which the Indians,
who had efcaped, confecrated to their Grod, in me-
mory of their con>panions. This canoe which we
had the fortune to fee,, ilands by a moraif where the
afhes of fonie Indians who l^d been wrecked are
doubtlefs depofited.
It bears no refemblance to the canoes of the coun-
try, which are formed only of an hollowed tree, raifed
on each fide by a plank fewed to the bottom ; but
this had ribs, timber, and rails, like our boats.
This
[1786.
ents of
ikvagcft
wrks o(
off the
iquirers
nothing
»refênts,
ecedii))^
}r many
ïrmitted
oeteries,
r hut8,
ach, till
the uni*
if canoes
d entire
sre. I^he
id never
ve could
hen they
sf, or at
ig them,
t fun, ag
: paddled
enquiries
ght large
nel fotne
i IndianS)
in nie-
irhich we
vhere the
eked are
he coun-
ec, raifed
:om; hut
ur boats.
This
IM
%::^'-
m : '
"M*'-,
" «»
.^
V\
:i
m
:»# ■ ■
'¥--■■■ :
;■? V-'.
i7B6,\ ROUND THE WORLD. 145
iJThli irsmiog, which wm very well con(lru<^cd, was
}trtâ\ifiih ikint of the (ba wolf, inliead of planks^
IM9t^ fewed thftfe the . be(^ workmen of Europe
ImW M great dil|Biit V w imhatlug tha^ opera-
htaini^lt thjp |Einiei> wbtftroie Mréjl
WHS
on ûàitkÈ ei^cd Utief ftal
alld<
Was
tajprcvcntl
f^fei*lçrs<ni!'
:t0 çpri#^ this ildlnrcpKf) to
•%ly wlrfin Mmiti'for
ùninhawtedi tHefb irai no
î^^n3 lam p<^adedt1ie unfor-
ip Wreck were (Iran^ers, of whom
ïtijeéluréç tft ^he following chap-
But the moidltifin'èrtts of the "Uekfphiiti a feligi-
1$ tefp^ among all nations of the Jivorld, and I
hknini the violation of an. àfyl^vti reverenced
by images,
r; ;At Icpgth on the 30th of July, at four m the cv6n-
, we ibt'fail ^th a very light "breeze from the
«tij^'^^hich did not go down till we had got about
^reelea^ÇSto the offing, and the horizon Was fo
Wj that We perceived Mount St. Elias bearing
(7w. (variation allowed for) diilant at leaft forty
iSgùés. 'At eight in the evening the entrance of
Pf ^^é bay bore north. We were three leagues off
Jllhbre, having then 90 fathoms water over a inuddy
l^^tom.
jr
{.•■• ■■
C?HAP.
n
vn
m
n
\ià
ï.X
a twfAins
'TSSSSSSii
C
?» -vv.
• ■ - ';■.,■■ •.■■ .ïv <., ■ -■ w,-,. y«! "
1^JB3C&IFTiaK;;OF^>0ÎT 9ES FiâÉ^ÂIS, ITS LATITUDE
.:|^D LONGÎTUliï'^BVAKTi^S AND lK<|b|îVSKI-
.,,^Mk£BA OJf THJ0: HAR10im-*-tBGETABLE Itliii^ lïi.
"jfcERAL PRODUGTidNS BIRÎt)», FISH, SHELL^ jOi^-^r
irln^PEOft — MANNERS ^NJ) CUSTOMS OP T«f ^-
DI^8--»THEIR. ARTS^ AJtMS, DRESS, AND Dis;pèé(r.
, ïi^ f ,0^. THEFT — GREAT, FRESUMPTÏON ^À't
'.01|L1CT»E RUSSIANS HAVE À C9MMU}7ICA,TIO>N IN-
^DliÉEi^TLY WITH THESE PEÛFtE-— TSEïk ll^|iCj
. DANÇ|S^ AND PASSION . FOR OAMIÎ^i^^i^èçfiïtTA-
TIOIJ Qi^ THEIR LANGUAGE* ^^^^S-v
JE 1%, ofynit^ef aie hsarhùtfrp wMch î; nap^
called Poi^ des Fi^èçais, is^tùatecj, acçc^dij^g.
ta o)ir ^iei^îatiDias ajsd thpfe oCSÀ. pagelet in '58^
37^|l. ^ and 1^9° ;6(/ W. %aj|t^^ fîie vai^
H^og^of the cx)inpft(8 is 2B^ towards tbe £ai|, and t||||
jii|i«,«)f th^|^i^fdl9r^% hut the* plan will fpplain ti^l
exti^t ap^direé^KHipr the port hett^ thâti any yelî |
bal dJBicfiMî^^^ ^^ ^^^ 4^y^ of the liew and full i
moqii, ih^^de ridCes fevea i^et and a half, and it is0-
higjh water at one o'clod^ The winds from the
vO^^g, pei^aps from fome unknown caufe, a<5^ With
'fo much violence on the current of the channel,
that I have feen the flood tide enter with the rapidity
of a torrent, though at fimilar periods of the moon,
even a boiit might fometimes have ilemmed it.
I meafurcd, in my excurfions, the bank raifed by fe-
veral tides 15 feet above the level of the fea ; and, it
is probable, that the tides by which it had been occa-
iiolied were thofe of the winter. When the winds
blow violently from the fouth,the channel pafs muft be
impraéticable, and at all times the currents render the
earonce difficult. The getting out requires alfo a con-
' ' currencc
.iÉBt-'.#fjaihB|?. .
-i*>- v.-:»>-t^a**-<t:vi h^afct|fcWttiii--»K».-^'bi.1te«:.'i<<l»|tf- ^
■ji^^'^Wi
PITUDE
ION m-
iin^fi? !
le variii- |
andtlj(^|;
►lain iJâ^i
my veèi f
and lull f
md it ifc-
Tom tfee
a6t With
channel,
Î rapidity
e moon,
lit.
*ed by fe-
; and, it
;en occa-
le winds
s mull be
enderthe
foa con-
currence
I 5
ce
S !90
"S
«a
*«!
g
le.
b
3 ^
6«
g
V
^
f
?
te
»
S
^>
tim
. «^ ■ \, f »-. .
/
vt
'''^'%'
Vj,
; /
%
J786.] ROUND THE WORLD. 147
cuiTcnce of circumftances, which mufl retard a veflel
many weeks, as (he can only get under weigh at high-
water ; the breeze fiom the wefi:, or the N. W., fel-
dom rifes till about ten o'clock, when it is too late
to take advantage of the morning tide : and, laftly,
the eafterly winds, which are contrary, appear to be
more frequent than thofc from the weft, and the
height of the furrounding mountains never permit^
the land or north winds to penetrate into the road.
This port pofïèfîing many advantages^ I have alfp
thought it neceflary to explain all its inconveniences.
in my opinion it would not be commodious for mer-
chantmen trading for furs on fpeculation. They
would be under the neceffity of coming to an anchor
in many bays, making but a (hort ftay in each, be-
caufe thefe Indians fell all their ftock in the iirft week^
and any delay muft be very prejudicial to mere tra-
ders. But a nation dcfigning to form a facSlory fimi-
lar to that of the Englilli at Hudfon's Bay*, cannot
make choice of a better fituation for fuch an efta-
feliflimcnt. A fingle battery of four cannon, placed
on the point of the continent, would be fufficient to
defend {o narrow an entrance, rendered difficult by
the currents ; and fuch a battery could neither be
turned nor carried by land, becaufe the lea alwayp
breaks with great violence on the coaft, where it
would, therefore, be impoflible to make a defcent.
The fort, the magazines, and all the commercial eftar
blifhment, might be ere6led on ITfle du Cénotaphe^
which is about a league in circumference, very capable
of cultivation, and fupplied with wood and water.
The (hips not having to fearch for cargoes, being cer-
tain of finding them already collected at one point,
would not he expofed to any delay 4 forae buoys^
laid down for the interior navigation of the bay,
would render it extremely (life and cfifyj and pilots
would be formed^ who, .knowing th^ Seating and
L2 *^ drift
V,-. • .. 1
h'.M
ifit
■•%-
"V
«r
/-...
148 LA PÉROUSE's X'OYAOE [1786.
drift of the currents at certain periods of the tide,
would enfure the fafety of fhips coming in, and go-
ing out : and, laftly, we found there fo confider-
. able a fupply of otter ikins, that I may venture to
prefume ^ greater quantity could not have been col-
leéled in any other part of America. '
The climate of this coaft feems infinitely milder
than that of Hudfon*s Bay, in the fame latitude.
We found pines meafuring fix feet in diameter, and
140 in height, while thofe of the fame fpecies at
Prince of Wales's, and Duke of York's forts, are fcarce-
ly of a fufficient dimenfion for ftudding-fail booms.
Vegetation is extremely vigorous during three or
four months of the year, and I fiiould not be fur-
prifed to find Ruflîan wheat, and an infinity of other
common plants, fucceed well there. We found ce-
lery, round leaved forrel, lupines, wild peas, mil-foil
t)r yarrow, chicory, and mimulus, in fuch abundance»
that every day, and every meal, the fliips* coppers
were filled with them. We had them in foups, in
ragouts, and in falads, and they contributed not a
little to preferve our health. Among thefe efculents
we found nearly all the field and mountain plants
of France, as the angelica, bouton d*or, violet, and
lèverai fpecies of grafs for fodder. All thefe herbs,
doubtlefs, we might have cooked and eaten without
danger, had they not been migled with fome plants
of the hemlock kind, very acrid, on which we mad©
no experiments.
The woods are replete with llrawberries, rafp-
berries, and goofeberries. We found alfo the elder,
the dwarf willow, difi^ercnt kinds of broom, which
grow in the (hade, the balfam-poplar, /wr^-poplar,
marfaut-willow, yoke-elm ; and, laftly, thofe fuperb
pines adapted for the mafts of the largefl: veifels.
None of the vegetable productions are ftrangers to
Europe, for M. de la Martinière, in all his various
■ - excurfions,
1786.] ROUND TftE WORLD. 149
excurfions, found only three plants which he believed
to be new ; and it is well known the fame may hap-
pen in the environs of Paris.
The rivers were full of trout and falmon, but, in
the bay, we only caught flétans^ * fome of which
weighed lOOlbs, fmall vieilles, -fa lingle ray or thorri-
back, fome caphns, \ and fome plaice. Preferring
the trout and falmon to all thefc fiOi, and the Indians
felling them in greater quantities than we confumed,
we fifhed very little, and that only with the line,
for our confiant occupation never permitted us to
bawl the feine, which required ihe united force of
25 or 30 men to drag it afhore. Mufcles grow in
profufe heap^ on that part of the (horn which is left
(Iry at low water, and the rocks are ai lb covered with
very curious little Upas. In the hollows of the rocks
pre found cornets, and other fhells of the pcrriwinkle
kind. I have feen on the fands cames of a conlider-
able fize, and M. de Lamanon brought from a place
elevated above 200 toifes from the level of the fea,
fome well preferved and very large petrifications of
the (hell, called, by naturalifts, manteau royal, and by
the vulgar coquille de Saint Jacques. This circum-
fiance is not uncommon to naturalifts who could
have found thefe fhells at much greater heights, but
it will Iqng continue difficult to explain, fo as to ob-
viate all objeélions. We never found a fingle (hell
of this fpecies cafl on the fands of the fhore, which
is well known to be the chief cabinet of naturç.
* Orfaîtan^ a flat fifli, longer and narrower than tlic turbot, and
its upper fl^in covered with fmall fcales. Thole caught in Europe
are of a much fmailer fize. — French Editor.
t A fifli in tafte and appearance like a cod, but commonly
larger, though, froni its avidity, caught with equal eafe. — French
Editor.
X This fifli refembles a whiting, though much larger, and its flefli
foft, well tafted, and eafy of digeftion. It abounds on the coaft
^i Provence, where it is called capeldn,— French Editor,
L 3 Our
.,-"',■"1 a» t's^ ' j-v
i'V: ■
m
'*a*.
f
15Ô LA pérôusb's VOYACm [l786.
Our hunters faw in the wcxjds, bears, martens, and
fquirrefs, and the Indians fold us fomc bear Iklns,
both black and brown, together with thofe of the
Canadian lynx, the ermine, the marten, Xht petit grïsy
the fquirrel, the beaver, the monax or mountain-rat
of Canada, and the red-fox. M. de Lamanon took
alfo a mujaraigne^ or fhrew-moufe, alive ; and we faw
fome tanned flcins of the &r/^«rt/ or elk, and a horn
of the wild-goat ; but the moil valuable, tl^jii
moft common Ikins, are thofe of the fef^ÂtlSr
lyolf, and fca-bear. Of birds there are not
different fpecies, but the individuals of each are yi
numerous, and the copfcs were full of linnets, ni^
tingalcs, black -birds^ and water-quails^y^jfe foç
Were very agreeable,, this being tMf^ppI^ |'
The white headed eagle, and vAf^'<fi^Wl^
cies, werefeen hovering in thé ail*} il
killed ^ing-fi{her,and fcTdfida Ve^llBé^!]^
fome Miaming birds, ''tfl^ilrallo^ 'xi^m
t^e hfesk.4îtiltrier, biiàdfetï^ h<^^^
were this ^1|«^ iflle tçdilfet«)d^^|a^
mallards, àhcl pfe t<^ tfe ')lfe «iSf É
jipecie^,. --•-'",;■;', ■■'v:-^ - ■ ■ " ' . ^V-./"' ■■.'"'■':-'■■
;fiâ^;àA|liJ(b nearly jôiîai^ble ^^jfec^^fer te-
îte^'^^lfebe, ' its fcertëpy has no |^âiStti^,aitid J
IOut)tj|hëther the lofty mountains, and deèp^litr^;
of th#Àfps and Pyrenees, affoid fo trem^n^i^ ^
fo piélurcfque, a fpeé^acle, well deferving the aftteti*
tion of the curious, were it not placed ^t the extre-
mity of the earth.
The primary mountains of granite, or of fchift,
covered with eternal fnows, where no trees, no, j^IantSj
are fecn, reft their bafes in the water, and form a
kind of quay along the fhore. Tb^ fides - are
fo fleep, that wild goats cannot climb beyond the
fjrft 2 or 300 toifes ; and all the fleams by which
they
.a. ***!
I / '
Bl-ACKBIR D of FORT des FRANÇAIS.
4i
I'D .
i4'
TuhJu/u 4<\ //v*. ^^ IStockdaU .
t'
17S6.] ROUND THB WORLD. ' 151
they are divided, are converted into immenfe glaciers»
wbofe fummits rife beyond the reach of fight, while
their bafes are wafhed by the Tea, and, at the diftance
o( a cable*s length from (hore, the water r^nnot b«
founded with a line of 6o fathom.
The fides of the harbour are formed of mountains of
the fécond order, only 8 or QOO toifeshigh, decorated
with pines and vejrdiirc, and only covered with fnow
on their fummits. They feemed entirely compofed
of fchifi in the commencement of its decompofition,
Bnd are not quite inacceffible, though very difficult
to afcend. Mefirs. de Lamanon, de la Martinière,
Çollignon, abbé Mongès, and father Receveur, all of
them zealous and indefatigable naturalifis, although
they could not. attain the very fummit, yet mounted
withJnexpreffible fatigue to a conliderable height,
where not a ftone or flint efcaped their notice. Too
well (killed in the hifiory and economy of nature to
be ignorant, that in the vallies may be found fome
fpeoimens of whatever conftitutes the mafs of the
mountains ; they did not fail to colIeA ochre, pyrites
of copper, very friable, though very large, and per-
feélly chryfl:alized grapite, (hoerl in chryftals, granite,
fchifts, pierre de corne, very pure quartz, mica, plum-
bago, and pit-coal, from all which, it is evident thefe
mountains contain iron and copper, though we could
perceive no traces of any other metal.
To a region Ça tremendous nature hag adapted the
inhabitants, differing as much from civilized nations,
as the country I have juft dcfcribed differs from the
cultivated plains of Europe. Equally rough and
barbarous, as their foil is ftony and unimproved, they
inhabit this land only to fpread devaflation, and
waging continual war with every kind of animal,
defpife the vegetable produdions that fpring up
around them. I have, indeed, fecn women and chil-
dren eat ftrawberries and rafpberrics, but, doubtlefs,
fuch food is infipid to men who, on the furface of
L4 the
Ï52 LÀ PÉROUSE's VOYAGE [l78fl.
the enrth, a6ï the part of vultures in the regions of
the air, or wolves and tigers in the forcft. *
The arts of life are there confiderably advanced, and
they have already made great profirefs to civilization.
But that civilization which polifhes manners, and
foftens ferocity, is yet in its infancy ; for their man-
ner of life excluding all fubordination, cxpofes them
to be continually agitated by fear or vengeance, and
being choleric, and prone to violence, we faw them
inceîlàntly raifing their poignards againft each other.
Though fubjeél to famine in the winter, as the chacc
may not produce a fufHcicnt fupply, they enjoy in
fummer the mofl profnfe abundance; for, in lefs
than an hour, they catch lifh enough for the fubfift-
ence of their families during the day. Thus the re-
mainder of their time being condemned to idlenefs,
it is pafled in play, which they purfue with as much
ardour and paflion as the diiîipated inhabitants of a
great metropolis ; and, like them, make it the grand
inexhauftible fourcc of their quarrels. Tf to all thefe
vices were added the baneful knowledge of fome in-
toxicating liquor, I fhould not hefitate to pronounce
thefe people hafteniiig, by rapid ftrides, to total ex-
tirpation.
In vain may philofophers exclaim againft this pic-
ture. While they are making books by the lire-iidc,
I have been traverling the globe for thirty years, and
have aélually witnelîëd the cuuniiig and injufticc of
* An old proverb warns credulity againft the account? of tra-
TcUers, and may, perhaps, prejudice the opinions, anddiminifli the
confidence of fome readers, who may not confider the*ure?.t atten-
tion a nnvigator is interelled to pay to his reputation, the leart de-
viation from the truth being fufticient to provoke a formal cpptra-
diiftion froni the numerous body of wituelFei by whom lie was ac-
companied. If, however, fuch a prejudice, which refl^iftion would
exclude, cannot be prevented, let me recommend, as its certain re-
medy, a çomparifon of our author's account with the details given
by Dixon of the north weft coaft of America, not forgetting that
his voyûge was performed a year after that of La Péi oufe, whofe
journal muft therefore hsve been unknown to him.— jR^nci Ec/hor.
- ' ^C • nations
3me in-
!786.*| ROUND THE WOilLD. 153
nations whom the) j^ourtray as nccefîàrily fimplcanll
virtuous, becaufe little removed from a ftatc of na-
ture. But nature is fublimc only in the mafs, while
(he is ever negligent of minutia;. It is impoflible to
penetrate through woods not thinned by the labours
of civilized man ; to traverfe plains tilled with rocks
and Hones, or inundated by impayable marfhes ; or,
in fhort, to alîociatc with man in a ftate of nature,
becaufe in that flate man is cruel, bafc, and deceitful.
Confirmed in this opinion by fad experience, I have
never had recourfeto that fupcrior force with which
I was intrufted in order to repel the iujufiice of thefe
favages, and teach them there is a law of nations
which ihould never be violated with impunity.
Our (hips were incefllintly funoundcd by canoes
of Indians, who would fufFcr three or four hours to
pafs away before they commenced an exchange of a
few (i(h, or two or three otter (kins; fcized every
opportunity of plunder; ftole every piece of iron
that could ealily be carried away ; and, in the night
particularly,^ tried every means of eluding our vigi-
lance. I iiivited all the principal perfonagcs on
board and loaded them with prcfents, yet thefe very
men, who had been eminently diftitiguilhed, were
never a(hamed to (leaj a nail or an old rag of cloaths.
Whenever they aflumed an air of mirth and docility
I was aflured fome theft had been committed, and
very often merely pretended not to obferve it.
I exprcfsly recommended the children to be ca-
rpfîèd and loaded with fmall prcfents, but their pa-
rents were infenfible to this mark of benevolence,
which I thought common to all nations. The only
rcfliedlion it excited among them was, that by 'dik-
ing to accompany their children when I invited them
on board, they would (ind new oj)portunities for
plunder; and for my inftruélion 1 often had the
pleafure of obferving the father take advantage of
fnoments when we appeared moft occupied with
his
^
154 LA FâBOUSB*8 VOYAGE |l786.
lîiç child, to pilfer and conceal under bU covçrHif 9i
Hkiti every thing within his reach. ^f^
I pretended to dcfîre Tome triflings srticlei of liltle
value belonging to the Indians to whom I h«d^J;ift
made large prcfents, that J might awaken tlifir||ep
ncrolity ; but without effect.
I will readily admit that fociety cannot pofRblj
exift without fome virtues, but I muft c<)nfcis. I h^
not the fugacity to difcover any here. Atwaya quar<r
relHn^ between themfclvcs, indifferent to^ }heir
children, and tyrants to their wtvei, wh^ll^ ihey
/condemn to the mod incefiant and intolerable labour,
1 have obferved nothing among thefe people to in-
duce me to foften the dark colouring of the pi^urc.
Wc never landed without being anned fm4 in a
body, for they greatly dreaded our miiiketl; and
eight or ten Europeans together might command a
whole village. ^-Thc two furgeon-majors of our {h\\1fi
imprudently venturing alone to the chace were at^
tacked by the Indians, who endeavoured to feize
their mulkets, but fortunately without fuccefa> «nd
only two men were fufiicient to drive them away.
A îlinilar accident occurred to M. dc Lcfïèp9» our <
young Ruffian interpreter, when a boat*s crew forf.
Innately came to his affiftancCk Yet thcib holtilitiei?
appeared to them of fo little momentthat they did
not difcontinue their vifits on board, and feemed
never to flifpeet it poifible for ua to make reprifalf,
I give the name of village to three or fouç pènt-
houfes, 25 feet long, and 15 or 20 broad, covered
only to windward with planks or bark of trees, in
the middle of which is a fire with falmon andji?/r-
fnns fiilpendcd over it to dry in the; fmoke. Eighteen
or twenty perlons lodge in each of thefe penthoufes;
the wTjmen and children on one fide, and thib men
on the othen Each cabin appeared to me toéon-
ftitute a tribe independent ofits neighbours; which
pQâèf&d each a boat and a fort of Chief, went
f*^ . out
[1786.
iring «^
m^
pofWy
» I hii4
• quar^
> \hctr
Ki Ibcy
labour,
s to in-
^i^ure.
nd in a
$i and
mmd a
i)r (hi}t|i
irere at*-
0 feize
Ç9, and
1 away.
pf, our w
ew foff.
)^tiIitie^
bey did
feemed
iri^alf ,
icpcnt-
covcrcJ
rees, in
andjfie-
ightcen
ihouies;
hk men .
toeon-
; which
r, went
out :
^-
.«HKC;..
i • J^
s t^'lfki
ITBÔ.^ ROUND THE WOULD. 155
out, left the bay, and carried away their fifh and
wood, while the reft of the village appeared to take
no (hare in their proceedings.
1 am almoft certain this port is inhabited only
during fummer, and that the Indians never pafs the
winter there. For I did not perceive a fingle cabia
iheltered from the rain, and although there were
not at any time more than 300 Indians together in
the bay, we were vifited by 7 or 800 others.
The canoes were continually coming in and goin^
out, carrying with them their houfes and furniture,
which conlifts of feveral little chefts containing their
mod valuable efFe6ls^ Thcfe chells are placed at the
entrance of their cabins, which are more unclean
and llinking than the dens of the moll loathfome
animal with which we arc ycf acquainted. They
never withdraw two fleps for any common occafion
of neceffity, nor in the relief of nature do they feek
any concealment or obferve any myflery, but con-
tinue the converfation in which they are engaged,
as if there was not a moment to be loft; and lliould
this occur during a repaft, refurae their places with-;
out concern, from which, however, they ilo not
ftir two yards *'. The wooden vÊifels in which
they cook their iifli are never wathcd, but ferve
♦ <* The infide of thetr dwellings exhibitsa complent piflure of
' ** dirt and filth, indolence and lazinefs ; in one corner are thrown
** the bones, and remaining fragments of victuals left at their meals ;
" in another are heaps of fifh, pieces of ftinking flefli, greafe, oil,
♦' &c." Dixon's I'yiage, p. 173.
Cook has depifted the naftinefs of the houfes occupied by the
inhabitants of Nootka Sound in the following pafllige:
" The naftinefs and ilench of their hoiifts are, however, at lead
" equal to the confufion. For as4hey dry their fifli within doors,
*• they alfo gut them there, which with their bones and fragment^
" thrown down at meals, and the addition of other forts of filth,
'' lie every where in heaps, and are, I believe, never carried away
" till it becomes troublefome, from their fize, to walk over them.
*' In a word, their houfes are as filthy as hog-fties, every thing in
f' and about them ftinking of fifti, train-oil and fmoke,"
equally
LA PÉROUSe's VQYA»E p7^^»
red hot mats, e^iSii^ykimm^
\0 liîeit food, is completely drefe^j^JChâ^l
4H» |jèjî,açqi;iwnted wi^^ method. Ql;fPftil«*f,f *"
^vi^iililÎK^lililar -tc^ that ùfed by Ibldiers m''eai|ip£^ % *^>.,,
f';P^ei>^|ê^p$.only a lînaH|»ii^the<^ people^ *^'
fifihs^^^St^m^i^oe^^^ GOBiiderable ipacco»
theHîcà Wi^>s "^iiplg^^ about tb$
digèrent bay» like fcati^yes in fçarch of ibod; and
during winter penetiïi^yj^'into the heart of |he coupât
try ta hunt the: cailo^âild 0ber animals, of which
they brpughtJJ« th^ ejtUîfiee. ISfotwithftanding they
always g€^barefopted»lhe fples of their feet are not
^pallous, but continue fo tender they cannot wôlk on
•Iheiloncs;^ a proof they travel only in canoes ox
iwitil ftiowriboes. i
'I'll^ dog being the only animal with whoii^ thçy
bave made any aUiancè, there arc commonly two «p
.three of thosi in a cabiii. Tbey are finall, and. re-*
fembie the^fiiepherd's dog of M. Buffon ; .they dritukli
little or nothiïig, ^ke a wbiflling noife like the ^\''
a^h»c£ J^^l^t «lid are fo ferocious as to bear '
the iànw'âi^ligy to other do^s as their mafters to ci*
;!3?he léeïi prcrcc the cartilage of their nofe iin(|
^^«ars; t^wfeçli their attach various little ornaments»
They fëài^ly^éir breafts^a^ arms with a very iharp
iron inftrunient, whetting it upon theîr teeth as
on a hone. Their teeth are filed down even with '
the gimn with a piece of rough ilone rounded off ,
in the (hnpe of a tongue. Tnty paint thçir faces
and other parts of their bodiçs in a frightful man»
ner, with ochi-e, lampblack, and black lead^^misLed-
* A w'ld beàft between the wolf and the dog, very coriiînon iii
,^{ia, carnivorous, and dangerou? to men. It b*rk» in the nij^t fike
• d»g, but not equally Icud. Its (i^tq is yetlOwiÛi} and is efteeo)'*
'''tliÊmâ
m
canoes ox
tV'f,
'i^;..
1 1 >''
iî- "■"
%.:
m
'=^«
>-i^<f
.'M
■hM'
i''-'::'^-
m
((
178^.] ROUND THE WOHLD. . 157
up with the oil of the fea wolf. During ^eat cefe-
TDonics their hair is long and powdered, and dréflèd
with the down of various fea birds. This feems to
be their greateft luxury, and is refer ved perhaps
only for the heads of families. A plain fkin covers
their (liouldcrs while the reft of the body is abfolutely
naked : but they ufually cover their head with finall
bats of draw very neatly made. Sometimes however .
they wear on their heads a bonnet with two comers,
eagles plumes, and laftly, the entire head of a bear,
in which they introduce a fkull cap of wood. Of
thefe different head-drefles they have great varieties,
but their principal obje6l feems, like their other cuf-
toms, to render them only more frightful, and per-
haps to infpire their enemies with terror.
Some of the Indians had entire (hirts of otter
IkinSj and the ordintiry drefs of the grand Chief was
a (liiit made of the elk Ikin. This veiy drefs
is well known among the fiivages of Canada, and
other nat'':ns on the eailern (ide of America*.
I faw xio tattooing but on the arms of the wo-
men, who have alfo a cuftom which makes thero
fo hideous, that I could fcarcely have credited had
I not been an eye witncfs to it. Every one of them
without exception has the under lip cut acrofs even
with the gums, the whole width of the mouth.
In this incifion they wear a kind of ladle without
handles, which prelies againft their gums, to which
their cut lip ferves as a pad outwards, fo that the
lower part of the mouth proje<Ss 2 or 3 inches-}'.
M. de
* " The chief, who always condiicls the vocal concert, puts on
^' a large cloak, made of the elk fkin, tanned, round the lower
" part of which is one, and fometimcs two rows of dried berries,
*' or the beaks of birds, which make a rattling noife whenever he
*' moves." Dixon's Voyage , p. 242.
f This cuftom appears very general among the tribes who inha»
bit the north-weft coaft of America, from the §0* to the .60% and
;e;!ctend8 even to the favages of the Ifle of Foxes and the Aleutiaa
lilands.
M
ill
mm
mm
-■.' '"i' Mi. >
iff ■''
P É i
îifc'ii'
t5ê lA j>£fiouax^« roTAOS
M. lié Vancy*s drawiilig, wj)ich is t pei&<sijr apt
iî«Sii irëpefeotation of it, will b^ the belt ilkHbitt
^b<i of thiVnsvoll^g ciiilQjp, tbah whicit: tbe^ w|^
èMd perhapv does not afl^ord /Mother e^ufdle dii^
jguftlng. The young girÏB <mJy wear a kini bf bôd«
kin, ^hiiç the married women alone are entitled to
the honours of the ladle *. We fometimes perfuaded
them
Iflarids. Victe die obfenrations of Coxe in hit tfanflation of JV«r-
ffriiu ÙécQsverts Jes Sbtfes^ pages 3d, 54, 104, and 158.
At Port Miiigrave, 59" 3^' north lat. 1 40* 22' wpft from themeri-
<iian of Paris, ** dn aperture is made in the thick part of the under lip,
«* and int.reai(»l b^ degrees in a line parallel with the mouth, and
^* «^ally- long: in this aperture, a piece of wood is conftantly wore,
.** o^ an elKpticftl form, about half an inch thick ; the ibperficies not
*^ ftâti but hollowed out on ea«h fide like a fpoon, thdugh not
'» quitt fo deep j the edges are lifcewife hollowed in the form of
'*< a pully, in order to fix this precious droament more £rmiy in the
** lip, which by this meahs is/requently extended at leaft three inches
." horizontally, and coni*cqueBtIy diftorts every feature in the loiter
^' part of the face. This curious piece of wood is vore only by the
** women, and feeftis to be con0dered as a mark of didinaion, it
*' not beine wore by aUindiicrimtnatdy, butonly thofe who appear-
.** ed in a mperior ftation to the reft." — Dixon's foyage^^. 17a.
At Norfolk Sound, in 57° 3' north lat. 135» 36' weft lone, fiom the
meridian of Paris, "the women, too, ornament, or rather diftort
i** their lips in the fame manner as I have ah'eady defer i bed ; and it
*< fhould feem^ that the female who is ornamented with the largeft
•* piece of wood, is generally moft refpeâed by her friends, and
^' the community in general." — Dixon*s voyage p. i96,
■ At Hippab, one of Queen Charlotte's Iflands in 53^4^' north lat.
1 35' ao* weft 1«^. from the méridien of Paris, ** there were likewife
** aftw women amongft them, who all feemed pretty well advanced
«* in years; their under lips were diftorted in the fame manner to
^' thofe of the women at Port Molgi-ave, and NorfolkSound, and the
■*• pieces of wood were particularly large. One of thcfe lip-pieces ap-
** pearing to be peculiarly ornamented. Captain Dixon wiihed
** to purchafe it. This curious lip-piece meafured three and feven-
"«^idgnth inches long, and two and five^eighth inches in the wideft
'** part ; h was inlaid with a fmall pearJy fhell, round which wai
t** a rim of copper."— £>;>o«'j voyage» p. 208. •
:^ 'Compare alio what Cook fays on the cuftoms of the tavages ^
'^onalauca and Norton's Sound, in 64* 31' N. lat. and 165» 7'
-tbt^. from themeridian of Paris, and of Prince William's Sound,
in^i* it' yo" N. lat. 148» 52' W. long, from the meridian of
î*aris. C<K)k'8 3d Voyage. — -^Fnttcb Editor^,
,. V * ^kmong thefe favages marriage being fubje£l to no formal^: ?
except
M
m the méri-
té under lip,
Kàf#
mi
^ ■^■mf.m.û
A WOMA N'of UieFOR'.r of the FKE^CH .
Puh:June to.ijga.by [StochiaLt.
J •'
1786.3 ROUÎCD THB WORLI). 15^
them to tftke off this ornament, which they confent-
ed to with difficulty, making the fame modeil gcf-
turcs and experiencing the fame embarraiTment uê
an European lady would ihew at uncovering her
bofom. The under lip then fell down on the chin,
^nd this fécond pidure was no lefs hidcou» than
the former;
Yet thefc women, the moft difgufting on earth,
covered with fetid, and frequently untanned, ikins,
excited the deftres of fome perfons who, in truth,
were well privileged for fuch carefles. At firft they
cxpreflcd unwiliingnefs, and declared, by their get-
turcs, th^ ran the rilk of their lives. But overcome
at laft by prefents, they made the fun witnefs of their
rites, and refufed to conceal themfelves in the woods.*
It
except thofe diAated by nature, I am of opinion with Dixon that
the lip-piece is rather thediftini^ion of puberty or of maternity, than
adiftinélion of rank) or the badge of excluHvely belonging to one
man. The refpeft they pay to fuch as . bey this ornament may
originate in this principle, fori cannot fuppofe the privation of
this honour to be a puniflunent in a country fo little civilized,
and where it would be fo eafy to recognize thofe who once enjoy,
edit.
" This curious Operation of catting the under lip of the females,
** never takes place during their infancy, but from every obferva-
*' tion I was able to ntake, feems confined to a peculiar jperiod of
'' life. When the girls arrive to the age of fourteen or fifteen, the
" center of the under lip, in the thick part near the mouth, is (imply
" perforated, aad a piece of copper wire introduced to prevent thie
"aperture from clofing; the aperture afterw'ards is iengthenedi
"from time to time, in a line parallel with the mouth, and the
" wooden ornaments are enlarged in proportion, till they are fre-
" quently incVeafed to three, or even four inches in length, and
** nearly as wide, but this generally happens, when the matron is
" advanced in year», and confequently the mufcles are relaxed; to
" that poffibly old age may obtain greater refpeél than this very
" fingular ornament." Dtxon*s Fixage, p. 187.
* The minutiae of Captain Dixon's defcriplion coincide, in ge-
neral, fo exaftly with thofe of La Péroufe, that I can fcarcely con-
ceive how they fliould differ fo much in their eflimation of female
charms.
Did chance prefent to Dixon an object pei-feélly unique among
hit
1;
l60 LA FjÉROUSB*» voyage [1786;
It cannot be doubted, but that orb is the god of thefe
Feople, who frequently addrefs prayers to him. But
could perceive neither temple nor prieils, nor the
traces of any re/rular religion.
In (ize and ligure thefe Indians differ little from
ws ; their features are greatly varied, and afford no
peculiar charaél:criftic, except in the cxprellion of
their eyes, which never communicate one tender
fentiment. The colour of their fkin is very brown,,
being conflontly cxpofed to the fun ; but their chil-
dren arc born as white as any among us. They havo,
inded, lefs beard than Europeans, but enough, how-
ever, to remove all doubt upon the fubjed ; and the
fuppofition that the Americans arc without beards, is
an error that has been too readily adopted. I havo
feen the aborioincs of New England, Canada, Nova
Scotia, and Hudlbn's Bay, and among each of thofe
nations have found matiy individuals with a beard,
his fpccies? or does the différence of his opinion originate in the
tvell known indulgence of a failor after fo long a voyage? Be that
as it may, he gives the following account :
♦* They are particularly fond of painting their faces with a va-
•^ riety of colours, fo that it is no eafy matter ^o difcover their reaf
•* complexion ; however, y^e prevailed on one woman, by perfua-
♦' (ion, and a trifling prefent, to wafh her face and hands, ani
** the alteration it made in her appearance abfolute';/ furprifed iis ;
*' her cQuntenance had all the cheerful glow of an ijinglifh milk-
" maid ; and the healthy red which fluflied her cheek, was even
*' ^(fdrw//)'»//)' contraftcd with the whitenefs of her neck; her eyes
" were black and fparkling ; her eye-brows the fame colour, and
" moft beautifully arched ; her forehead fo remarkably clear, that
♦* the tranflucent veins were ften meandering even in their minuteft
" branches — in flioi t, fbe was what would be reckoned handfome
*• even in England : but this f mnictry of features is entirely dc«
*' ftroyed by a cuflom extremely lingular." Dixon's f^eyage^ p. 171.
In fuppo't of Dixon, however, I muft cite the Spanifh account
of a voyaj;e undertaken in 1777. written by Don Mau,relio, fécond
Captain of La Favorecida. This navigator, after confirming the
accounts of rhe ridiculous ornamf;nt placed in an orifice cut in the
middle of the under lip, adds: " If better dreflêd, many of them
*' nnight difpute the prize of beauty with the fined wouien of Spain."
Ireuch Editor, ' .
which
/
l786;J ROUND THE WORLD. iQl
which made me think a cuftom of deftroyinff it ha»
prevailed where it does not appear.* In the frame of
their bodies they are feeble, and, in wreftling, the
weakeil of our failors would have thrown the moft
robaft of the Indians. I remarked fome whofo
fwollen legs gave fymptoms of the fcurvy, although
their gums were found ; but I doubt they will never
arrive at a great age : nor did I fee more than one
woman apparently of the age of fixty ; and (he en-
joyed no privilege, but fubmitted, like the reft, to the
«various labours of the fex.
My voyages have enabled me to compare various
nations, and I am certain the Indians of Fort des
Français are not Efquimaux. They have evidently a
common origin with nil the inhabitants of the interior
of Canada, and the northern parts of America.
Cudopis entirely peculiar to themfelves, and a very
* " The voung men have no beards, and I was at fii ft inclined
" to think that this arofe from a natural want of hair on that part,
" but I was foon deceived in this particular, for all the men we faw,
^ who were advanced in years, had beards all over the chin« and
" fome 6f them whi(kers on each fide the upper lip. At thisi fup^
" pofed defeâ among the natives of America has occafioned much
" fpeculative enquiry amongft the learned and ingenious, I took
*' every opportunity of learning how it wasoceauoned, and wa»
" given to underftand, that the young men got rid of their beardi
" by pulling them out, but that' as tney advance in years, the hair
" is fuffered to grow." Dixtuls Vvfage^ p. 238.
An enemy to all fyftems and aiming folely at truth in my re-
fearches, I ihall not difcard the aflertions of^thofe who contradiâ'
La Péroufe, and I believe the reader will derive pleafure firom the
following extraâ from the Lettres Américaines tii Carli, let. ai. :
*' It is not at ail furprifing indeed to fee the Americans without
** beard, or hair on their bodies, fince the Chinefe and Tartars, if
'^ we credit hiftorians, are equally deprived of it. Hippocrates tells
' us the Scvthians of his time were without them. Tne Huns were
pei'b^pstne defcendants of the Scythians ; for, as Fernandez relates,
they grow old without beards, and become adult without the or-
*' namcnts of puberty. The hiftory of Hyton, the Armenian, who
" fled from Tartary m 130^, and became a monk at Cyprus, in-
" forms us the Tartars, particularly thofe of Cata^, have no beard :.
** and how many people in Afia and Africa are in the fame fitua>
'♦ tion!"—Fw/<r/j £<///«r.
«
Vol. I.
M
lingular
ii
':
ti
I
■ -^ 11*11
II
101 LÀ péROUSK s VOTAOE [l786.
lingular countenance, didinguiOi the Efquimaux from
âU other Americans. The former, in my opinion,
refemble the Greenlanders, and inhabit the coail of
Labrador, Hudfon*6 Straits, and a drip of land along
the whole extent of America, up to the Pcninfula of
Alaika. It is doubtful whether Ada or Greenland
was the original country of thefe people, but thnt
quedion is frivolous, and will, probably, remain for
ever problematic and undecided. Suffice it to fay,
the Efquimaux arc a people who delight more in dlh-
ing than the chace, and preferring oil to blood, nay, per-»
haps, to every thing elfe, commonly eat their d(n raw.
The framing of their canoes is always covered with
Ikin of the fea-wolf very tightly dretched. Nimble
and adlive in alt their movements, they differ little
from fea-calves, and wanton in the water with as
much agility ns if naturally amphibious. Their face
is almod fquare, their eyes and bread large, tHeii
figure fhort. Of all thefe charaâeridics not one
Agrees with the natives of Port des Franfais, who are
much larger, meagre, far from robud, and very un-
ikilful in the condru6lion of their boats, which arc
fbrmed of an excavated tree, raifed on each dde with
a iingle plank.
The latter catch fiih like us by dopping the rivers,
or with a line, which they ufe in a very ingenious
manner. They faden a large bladder of the fea-
wolf to each line, and abandon it to the waves. Every
eatioe throws out 12 or 13 lines. When a fifh is
booked he carries off the bladder, and is purfued by
the canoe. Thus two men are enabled to attend 12
or 15 lines, without the trouble of holding them in
the hand *.
\ Thefe
* " I cannot think thjJt this was altogether defigned as an orna-
" ment to their hooks, but that it has fome religiou9 alJufion, and
•• poflSbly is intended as a kind of deity, to enfure their fuccefs in
*' fifhing, which is conduced in a fingular maoner. They bait their
" hook with a kind of fifli, called by the failorsy^«/JIf, and having
*• funk
f
V-
< •
1766.] «OUVD TMI WORLD., lOS
. "Thefe Indianf have made ftr greater progreA in
the arti than in morals, iund their induilry is more ad-
vanced than that of the inhabitants of the South Sea
lAands. I muft, however, except agriculture, which,
by rendering man domeftic, fecuring him a fubdft^
ence, and fubjeéling him to the fear of the land he
has cultivated being expofed to ravages, contributes
more, perhaps, than any other caufe to ibflen his
manners, and render h' m fit for focietv.
The Americans of Porf des Prançats arc acquaint-
ed with the method of forging iron and moulding
copper. They fpin the hair of various animals, and,
with a needle, form of that wool a manufadlure fîmi-
lar to our tapedry. With this web they mingle
llrips of the otter (kins, which makes their cloaks
refcmble the fineft filk (hag. In no part of the world
arc draw hats and baikcts more ikilfully made. They
adorn thele with plealing deiigns ; and fculpture, in
a paflable manner, men and animals in wood and
Hone. They decorate boxes of an elegant form with
(hell-work) and cut the ferpentine ilone into jewels,
to which they give the poliih of marble. Their arms
confifl of the poignard already defcribed, a lance of
^ood, hardened in the fire, or of iron, according to
the riches of the proprietor, and a bow and arrows
ufually pointed with copper. But their bows are in
no rcfpeâ remarkable, and much weaker than thoib
of many other nations.
I fpund among their jewels pieces of yellow amber,
but know not whether it is indigenous, or imported,
like their iron, from the ancient hemifphere, by an
indireA communication with the Ruffians.
I have already mentioned that feven large canoes
had been wrecked at the mouth of the harbour. Their
" funk it to the bottom, they fix a bladder to the ehd of the line as
" a buoy, and ftiould that not watch fufficiently, they add another.
" Their lines are very ftrong, being made of the finews or inteilines
" of animals. One man is fufficient to look after five or fix of tkefe
" buoyg." Dixw's Fyagey p. 174. — Frtné Editor.
M 2 • dimenfions.
iif
104 tA;péROUS£'s VOYAfil
dimenfîons, as taken from the onl^; oine-tliât â^j(Nl«
\^cre 34 feet long by four feet brood,: ànd'iîi;; 'deej»
Thefe large dimenfions qualified themÉ)r eiipeditkni»
of cbniiderable length. They were covered yfx\h the
ikiniof the féa-wolflikë thofe of the Efquiinau^, whkà
led us to imagine the Port des Frànfàh Mia bï^ tm>
poriùm only inhabited in the fiOitng foi^»».. ^ ) We
thought it poiHble that the Ëfquiroi^ux in thefvidi^ >
of the Shumagin Iflands, and «f the penlnfula e^
pldred by Captain Cook» might extend thfeir ,com*
merce tothis part of America^ furniihing itj with iron»
and other articles^ and taking, witfefrdil advantage
to themfelves» the otter-Oiins whioliutb^;!»; «agçny
delirci The form of thefe canoes^ t|^;v|hef grcià
. quantity of ikins we dealt for (probably çolleéied b)e^
for fale to thefe traders), confirm this .oon^c^tire^
whit^h I merely throw out, bécajtïf^^t ^nis to act
count for the iron and other £ulx>p0an articles th|^
jpoiiefs. ' '' :
I have fpokch of the paf^on of thefe. Indians fdr
play. That to wh^ch they devote themftlyts with the
greateft fUry.is a X^tnt of pure hazardv , Th«sy havp
30 fticksi each dim*rently marked in the ftianner ol
dice. Of thefe they hide feven ; each plays in his
turn, and he who comes neareft to the numbers 4»
the feven flicks wins the flake, which is ufimlly a
piece of iron, or a hatchet. This game renders them
ferious and melancholy, though I have often heard
then) fingi and when the Chief came on board>; hs
generally firiV went all round the fhip finging,:!»*^
his arms extended in the form of a crofs, as a%(i
of amity, and then came on board, performing a pan-
tomime expreiîive of battles^ of furprize8,.or 0f death.
The air which pieceded this ballad was pte^ng iaiUl
harmonious^ and, as nearly as we could, note it dov^iii,/^
is as follows** '
* There who have the (Irongeft voices take ditlir àthil^iyilQ
and the women a third above the principal piir^;)Wliile othéÉ,
an oéiave, and often make a paufe of two baTiit the higheft '^'
■'fi
'M
^^'^5^
zàvBRpm
Usaedbio^é
;ni9 to acf
rtiéles Ihjpy
' i ri»
Indians îdt
rfts with the
Thttjr have
<nanner0^
îlays ifihis
umbers «^
) viiiaRy A
ndeiAtbc^
Dften betted
ï board^ ho
ïgingrWÎ<^
3, asa%ti
pyigapa»-
iir0f death,
lè^ngwïd
otcitdown.»
^fttbîffl^
itle otl«IÉ,tiË
: bigheft:'iMP
* ■ 'B
. ■■.VV!v;-;
t786.J
ROUND THE WORLD.
laô
"^^
r-Q
^tajtdjj
»^>
^^
?3zp:
v^
?:q:
ivx
ggg
^^wm
.Ml
;^
i-^H-ï-ïH-
=FFi- irnT"
èJj
'-iJi^i-îS^
ESn-:iidy:-^
v>'
^-/
cip:
^EQ
Î3^
t
i
■fattl^B
!"■■ . fW
M 3
a*C
Hi!:''
;-s ;(,..(,.
.f^
'd'il
'Mil
f*/i''i.iJ
;iRV
mV^
'■mi4;<
>,-*
M S^MiVIÏ
|f.ftï8iyi
]m
M Ms ft.' ' '
Bi
t r, mi
ail r
i i
f m
l6(5 LA piROUSE*S VOYAGÉ [iTSÔ.
M. de Lamanon is the author of the followinjç
Remarks on the language of this nation, of which I
fhall only quote the numerical words, for the fatis-
faélion of thofe readers who wi(h to compare varioua
tongues.*
Remarks BH^lke Langïiage of the Indians of Port
des Français,
One .keirrk.
.-Two theirh.\
iThree neiflt.
^•^ Four taakhoun^
Five keitfchine. f
ISix kîeitouchou,
' '^ Seven takatouchoti,
^ Bight . . . i netjkatouchoii, \
' Kine , TtoueJmk, '
Ten tchinecate.
Eleven keirkrha-keirrk,
^Twelve ieirkrha-theirk^
Thirteen keirkrha-nei/k.
Fourteen keirkrha-taakhoun, f
Fifteen keirkrha-keitfchine, \
Sixteen keirkrha-kîeitouchou.
Seventeen keirkrha-takatouckou,_
Eighteen keirkrha-netjkatouchoti, f
Nineteen keirkrha-kouehek.
Twenty theirha.
* A more comprehenfive vocabulary of the languages of all the
nations vifited by thefe navigators was annoanced, and its pub*
Jication is a juft debt to the afliduity of Meflis. Monneron, Leit
feps, Lavaux, Lanianon, Mongès and Receveur ; but it is not ar<
rived.
f The r guttural) which this nation pronounces (lill inoré harfli*
ly than the German cbr^ is here exprefled by M, as if the French
word rhatîttér were pronounced with a'ftrong and difficult vibra»
tion.
, « . Thirty
ire varioua
1786.] , ROUND THE WORLD.' I67
Thirty .' netjkrha, '■'■■■
Forty . . • • taakliounrha.
Fifty keitj'chinerka.
Sixty Ï . . kleitouchmrha. *
Seventy. . . < takatouchourha, - '
Eeighty netjkatouchourha*
Ninety kouehokrha.
Hundred. ............ tchinecaterha
" Our letters are not adapted to exprefs the lan^
" guage of this nation : for, though they have many
*^ founds fimilar to ours, many of their articulations
** are totally foreign to us. They make no ufe of the
" confonants, b, p, x, j, d, p> v, and notwithftanding
" their talent for imitation, they were never able to
" pronounce the four firft, or the l mouillée* y and.cN
" mouillé. They articulate the r as if it were double,
*•' with a ftrong vibration ; and they pronounce the
" chr of the Germans with as much harfhnefs as the
" Swifs of certain Cantons. They have an articulate
" found extremely difficult to catch, and which we
" could not endeavour to imitate, without exciting
" their rifibility. It is in fome degree reprefented
" by the letters khlrl, which form one Syllable, pro^
^' nounced at the fame time with the throat and the
" tongue. It occurs in the word khlrleies, which fig-
" nifies hair. Their initial confonants are, k, t, n, s, m,
" of which the former are thofe moft frequently ufed.
" None of their words begin with an r, and they
" almoft always terminate in ou, ouls, ouleh, or other
" vowels. Their guttural pronunciation, the. great
" number of Ks, and their double confonants, ren-
" der this language extremely Jiarlh, It is even left
" guttural when fpoken by the men than by women,
" as the wooden ornament they wear ir^ their under
* Of this pronunciation the word mouillée is itfelf aa exampk,
as bagnio is of the g»,-^Tran/Iator's Note.
M 4 «lip,
1
; : »
'te
131
C(
«
cr
168 tA PÉROUSE^S VQYAQE [l786|.
*•' lip, which they call kentaga, incapacitates them
** from pronouncing the labials.
" The harfhnefs of their language is lefs ftriking
when they ling. I was unable to make piany
obfervations on the parts of fpeech they employ,
as it is extremely difficult to con^municate abftraèt
ideas by figns ; but I difcovered that they ufe
" interjetions to exprefs admiration, anger, and
** pleafure, though I do not believe they have any
" articles, for I perceived no words that recur with
' ** fufRcient frequency, or appeared to ferve as con-
" nedives to their difcourfe. They are acquainted
" with numbei-s, for which they have names, but
** have no mode of diftinguiihingthe plural from the
•* lingular, either by a difference of termination or by
** an article. I fhewed them a fea calf's tooth,
** which they called kaourrê, and they gave the fame
*^ name to a number of thefe teeth, without the leaft
** change in the found. Their colledlivc nouns are
'' very few; nor have they fufficiently generalized
^* their ideas to have formed words of abftraâion.
They have not even fufficiently definite ideas to
avoid giving the fame name to objedls perfeâly
diflinét. Thus kaaga figniiies at once head and
face^ and alcaou both chief ^nà friend. \ perceived
no refemblance between this language and that of
** Alalka, Norton Sound, Nootka, Greenland, or the
*' £fquimaux, Mexicans, Nadoelîis, and Chipa was,
^' whofe vocabularies I have collated. I pronounced
^ lèverai words of thefe languages, without their comr
**. prehending any of them, although I varied my pro-
" nunciation as much as poflible; but although there
f* is not perhaps a fingle idea or thing exprelïèd by
" the fame name among the Indians of Port des
" Fr/infais, ^nd the nations juft named, there ought
" to be a great affinity of found between this lan-
/« guage and that of the cntr^mce of Nootka Sound^
a
<t
«(
<€
. t . ..
« .
1786.] HOUND THE WORtD. I69
^ fpr K is the predominant letter in each, and occurs
" in alnnod every word. Their initial confonants and
^* terminations arp very often the fame, and it is not
♦* perhaps impoffible this language may have a com-
" mon prigin with that of Mexico ; but if fo, this
♦' origin mijft be very ancient, fincc their words have
^' no refenjblance, excepts in the elements of words
" and not in their fignification."
I (hall conclude vfiy account of this nation by ob-
ferving, that we perceived no trace of cannibalifm
fimong them, though it is fo general a cuftom among
the Indians of America, that I might even have to
^dd this trait to the pidlure, had they been at war or
|ajç.en a prifoner during our ftay *.
CHAP. X.
PEPARTUP.E PROM PORT DES FRANÇAIS EXPI<ORA-
TION OF THE COAST OP AMERICA — BAY OP ISLANDS
r— PORT op LOS REMEDIOS, AND PORT BUCCAREL-
H OP THE PILOT MAURELLO CROYERE ISLANDS
ISLANDS OP SAN CARLOS DESCRIPTION OP THE
COAST FROM CROSS SOUND TO CAPE HECTOR
A GREAT GULPH OR CHANNEL — EXACT DE-
TERMINATION OP ITS BREADTH SARTINE
ISLANDS WOODY POINT OP CAPT. COOK VERI-
FICATION OP OUR TIME -KEEPERS BREAKERS
POINT— NECKER ISLANDS ARRIVAL AT MONTEE-
R^Y.
THE forced ftay I had recently made in Port des
Français^ obliged me to alter my plan of naviga-
tion on the cpaft of America, though I had ftill time
^ Capt. J. Meares has proved, in his voyages, that the nations who
inhabit the N. W. coa^l of" America are cuiuxhai&r^French Editor,
"-••''tKlii
mm
mm
' ,1' I ■î'Sifl
170 LA pÎ:rodse*s voyage [178(5.
to range along it and determine its direélion ; but it
was impoffiblc to think ofputting in at any other port,
ftill lefs to reconnoitre every bay. All my proceedings
muft now be fubordinatç to the abtblutc neceflity ot'
arriving at Manilla by the end of January, and at Chi-
na in the courfe of February, in order to employ the
cnfuing fummer in exploring the coafts of Tartary,
Japan, Kamtfchatka, and even the Aleutian iflands.
I perceived with chagrin that fo vaft a plan fcarcely
admitted of our defcrying objeé^s at a diftancc,
without clearing up any doubts regarding them ; for
being obliged to navigate within the reign of the mon-
foons, it was necefîàry either to lofe a whole year, or
arrive at Monterey between the toth and the 15th
of September, and flay there but fix or feven days to
take in wood and water, and then traverfe as rapidly
as poflible the great ocean, over a fpace of 120*^ of lon-
gitude, or near 2400 marine leagues: for between the
tropics the deforces are nearly equal to thofe of the
equator itfelf. 1 had the greateft realbn to fear I fhould
not have time to vifit the Caroline Iflands, or thofe to
the northward of the Marianas, in conformity to my
orders. The exploration of the Carolines mufl ne-
ceiîàrily depend, more or lefs, on the quicknefs of our
run, which we had reafon to expedl would be very
long, our fliips being very bad failers. The geogra-
phical fituation of thefe iflands, which are far to the
weflward, (or to leeward) would not, without confi-
derabie difficulty, admit of comprehending them in
the ultimate objedls of my navigation to the fouth-
%vaTd of the line.
Thefe various conliderations determined me to fix
a new rendezvous with M. de Langle, in cafe of our
feparation. I had before appointed the ports of Los
Remedies and Nootka : it was now agreed that wp
ihould only touch at Monterey, which we preferred,
1)ecaufe, being the mofl diflant, we flipuld have more
wood and water to replace. - •
■". Our
17 86. J ROUNIJ THE WORLD. ï7l
Our misfbrtiincs at Pori des Français demanded
fomc changes among our officers. I therefore gave
M. Darbaud, a garde de la marine, and an extremely
well informed man, orders to a<5l as enfeigne ; and to
M. Broudou, a young volunteer, who had continually
given me proofs of intelligence and afïiduity lînce
our departure from France, a commilîion o( lieutenant
de frégate. »
I recommended to the officers and pafTengers to
fell our furs in China, only for the profit of the
failors ; and this propofal being acceded to unani-
moufly and with enthufiafm, I gave M. Dufrefne an
order to a6l as their fupercargo, a commiffion which
he executed with a ikill and affiduity I cannot too
highly extol. He had charge of the purchaie, pack-
ing, aborting, and faleof the various fpeciesof furs ;
and as I am certain there was not a fingle fkin pri-
vately difpofed of, this arrangement gave us an op-
portunity to know with precifion their price in China,
which might have varied had there been a competi-
tion of fellers. This alfo encreafed the profit of
the failors, who were thus convinced their interefls
and their health never ceafcd to be the principal ob-
jeéls of our attention.
The commencement of our new expedition was
far from being fortunate or fatisfa^lory to my impa-
tient expeélations. We only made fix leagues in the
firft 48 hours, with light airs, which during that in-
terval varied from north to eafl, and to fouth, with
fbggy, cloudy weather. We were ftill three or four
leagues from (bore, and within fight of low lands.
We only perceived the mountains by intervals, lb
as to connect our bearings, and lay down with ac-
curacy the diredlion of the coaft. The latitudes
and longitudes of the moll remarkable points we
determined by very good obfervations. I was ex-
tremely defirous the wind fhould permit me rapid-
ly to explore this coaft as far as Cape Edgecombe
> -* h"* "i -■' rïf-ii * I
■N1
r-îiO.
or
172 LA pérouse's voyage [1786,
or Engiinno, as it bad already been Teen by Cpp-
lain Cook, though he paffed it at a confiderablo
diAance ; but his oblervations are fo exac^, that he
«rould only have committed cn-prs infinitely minute,
and I was convinced, that being equally limited in
point of time with thpt celebrated navigator, I could
not pay more attention than him to mirjutiae, which
muft be the object of a feparate expedition, and
would have employed us during fcveral feafons. I
felt the greatell impatience to arrive in 55°, ^nd to
kave a little time to devote to this furvey, as far as
î*4ootka, from which a gale of wind had driven Capt.
Cook 6o or 80 leagues. It was in this part of Ame-
rica, according to M. Guignes, that fome Chinefe
muft have landed, and it is in the fame latitude that
Admiral Fuentps found the mouth of the AichipclagQ
of St. Lazarus, 'i'':<fl} ! j
I was very far from believing the conje<^ure pf M.
«le Gpignes, pr the narrative of the Spaniih admiral,
whofe very exiftence I conteft ; but ftruck with the
obfervation I have already rnadq, that all the iflands
and countries defcribed in the ancient Spanitb narra r
tives, though very ill determined both in latitude and
longitude, have been again difcovcrcd in thefe days,
I was inclined to imagine fome ancient naviga.
tor of that laborious nation had difcoyered a bight,
whofc entrance might be in this part of the coaft ;
and that this faél alone h;id formed the bafis pf the
ridiculous romance of Fuentçs apd Bernarda, I had
no intention however of entering this chanpel, ihould
I flill in with it. The feafon was too far advanced,
and I could not have liicrificed to this refcçirch the
whole plan of my voyage, but in the hopes of arriv-
ing in the caftern ocean, by travelling the continent
of An. erica ; and being certain fince the voyage of
Hearn that this paHage is a mere chimera*, 1 was
•La Peroufe, too acurate himfelf to fufpcA the narrative of
Hearn to be a political impofition, here adopts an opinion, of which
bereafter I ftiall maintain direftly the reverie. §ee notes on pages i
and 107." Freijeb EJitsr^
■Â:
1786.] ROUND THE WORLD," 173
fully rcfolved only to determine the breadth of the
channel, and its depth as far as 25 or 30 leagues,
flccording to the leifure I might hnve, leaving it to
nations who, like the Spaniards, the Englifh and the
Americans, have pofîèmons on that continent, to ex-
plore it more accurately, and which could be of no
ufe to navigation in general, the fole obje<it of our
voyage.
The fog, the rain, and the calms did not ceafé
till the 4th at noon, when we obferved in 57° 45'
N. lat. at three leagues from land, which wc only
perceived indiltinélly, on account of the fog. It
difperfed at four, and we clearly diftinguifhed th$
entrance of Croft Sound, appearing to form two
very deep bays, where it is probable fhips might find
very good anchorage.
It is at this found the high mountains covered
with fnow terminate. Their fummits are from 13 to
1400 toifcs high. The lands that form the coaft
to the S. E. of Crofs Sound, though 8 or 900 toiles
high, are covered with trees to the top, and th«
chain of primary mountains feemed to go very far
into the interior of that continent. At fun-fct I had
the weflernmoll point of Crofs Sound bearing N. 25*
W., diftant about five leagues : Cape Fair Weather
then bore N. 50° W. and Mount Crillon N. 45° W.
This mountain, which is almoll as high as Mount
Fair Weather, is to the northward of Crofs Sound,
as Mount Fair Weather is to the northward of the
bay des Français. Thcfe points ferve as land-marks to
the harbour they furround, and it would be very eafy
to miflake the one for the other in coming from the
fouthward, as their latitude did not ditîcr 15 mi-
nutes. Mount Fair Weather is alfo accompanied
with two left elevated mountains, and Mount Crillon,
which is more ifolated, inclines its point to the fouth-
ward* I continued to range along the coaft at a dif-
tance of three leagues, the mountains being con-
ftantly
>:. ■,•!
: 1!
9
174 tA PKKOUBE*» VOYAOK [iJ^SÔ.
ilantly covered with fog. We only perceived the
low lands at intervals, and endeavoured to diftinguifh
the Aimmits, IcfLwe (hould break, the conneiSlion of
our bearings.
Our progrcfs was very flow, advancing only lo
leagues in 24 hours. At day-break I faw a cape to
the fouthward of Crofs Sound, which I called Cape
Crqfs*, bearing north 29** weft. We were then abreaft
of an infinity of fmall low iflands very thickly wood-
ed. The high hills appeared in the fécond range,
and we no longer perceived the mountains that were
covered with fnow. I approached thefe iflands near
enough to fee the breakers on their coafts from the
deck, and I diftinguifhcd fevcral channels between
them, that muft have formed good roads. It is this
part of the coaft, Capt. Cook has called the Bay of
JJlands, At funfet we had the mouth of port de Los
Remedios bearing Ë. 2^ S., that of Guadaloupe Bay
E. 1\^ S., and Cape Enganno E, 33° S. : but all
thefe points and capes were very indiilinél, owing to
the fog which envclloped their fummits.
From Crofs Sound to Cape Enganno, an extent of
coaft of 25 leagues, I am perfuaded there are twenty
different harbours, and that three months Would
fcarcely fuffice to explore this labyrinth of navigation.
I confined myfelf to the plan I had formed at my
departure from Port des Français, to afcertain with
precifion the beginning and the end of this clufter of
lilaiids, with their direélion along the coaft, and the
entrance of the principal bays.
On the 6th the Iky being clearer, we were able
to take the fun's altitude, and compare the true
time with that of our time-keepers. Our latitude
* Capt. Cook alfo called it Cape Crofs, but fixes its latitude in
57deg. 57inin. This difference remit arife from the outline of
the coaft> which here prefents feveral capes : and Cook has doubt-
lefs determined the pofition of that, which on the chart appear»
moil to the {outhward.-^F7gm& Editor.
was
1786.] HOUN» THE WORLD. 17.'»
was 57** 18^40", and our longitude, according to the
laft rate of our tinic-kccpcrs, us obfcrvcclupon the IJlî
du Cénotaphe^ 138" 49' 30". I have already men-
tioned the great pcrfcj'ilion of M. Bcrthoud s tinîc-
kcepers : their lofa upon the mean daily motion of
the fun is fo trifling and fo uniform, that we have
reafon to believe, that artift has attained the greatcft
degree of perfcélion of which they arc fufccptible.
The fit h was a tolerably clear day, and our bear-
ings were taken with as much facility as we could
délire. At feven in the evening we ilill perceived
Mount Crillon bearing N. Q(P W. Moimt St. Hya-
cinth N. 78" E. and Cape Enganno ♦ E. 10« S. which
laft is a low land covered with trees, and ftretching
far out to fea. Mount St. Hyacinth reds upon it,
and forms the fruftum of a cone, but rounded off at
top, and is at leaft two toifes high.
On the morning of the fcventh we faw the oppofite
fide of Cape Enganno to that we had coalled the pre-
ceding evening. Mount St. Hyacinth waspcrfe^ly
diftinguifhable, and we difcovercd to the eaûward of it
an cxtenfive bay, whofc depth was concealed by the
fog. But it is fo open to the S. and S. E. winds, which
are the moft dangerous, that navigators ought to dread
anchoring theref . Its fhores are covered with trees, and
of an equal height with tbofc to thcfouthwardofCrof»
Sound. A little fnow covers the fumraits of the hills,
which are fo pointed and fo numerous, that the fmall-
eft change of fituation entirely alters their appearance.
Thefe hills are (bme leagues within the land, and feem
to be a third range of mountains. Smaller hills lie
* Mount St. Hyacinth and Cape Enganno are the Spanifti names
for Mount and Cape Edgecombe of Capt. Cook. — French Editor.
' t Dixon anchored there to trade for furs; and gave it the name of
Norfolk Sound. Its lat. was 53» 3' N. and its long. 138" 16 W.
from the meridian of Paris. He anchored in 8 fathoms water over
a fandy bottom, at three quarters of a mile from the fliore Cook
perceived the mouth of this creek on ihi fécond of May 1778, but
did not anchor there. — French Edlt.r.
againft
;
Hil
Ir '
II. '
1
k
■111 .
1 i
Ji \
1
li
I- '
I
\
176 tA PEROÙSE*S VOYAG* [1780,
againfl their fides, and are connected with a low and
undulating bafe, extending as far as the fea. Iflands,
refembling thofe already défcribed, lie before this
undulating ihore ; but in the chart we have only
laid down with precifion the moll remarkable : the
others are fcattered about, merely to fhew they are
extremely numerous ; for to the northward and
fouthward of CapeEnganno the coaft is bordered with
iflands for the fpacc of 10 leagues. We had palîèd
all thefe by ten in the morning, when the fmall hills
appeared clear of them, fo that we could di(lingui(h
the windings of the (hore. At fix in the evening
we faw to the N. E., a cape that ftretched far out to
the weftward, forming with Cape Enganno the S. E*
point of the great bight, a third of which I have al-
ready defcribed to be crowded with, fmall iflands*
From the extremity of thefe iflands to the new cape
we faw two large bays f, which appeared to ftretch
very far in land. To this cape I gave the name of Cape
Tfchirikow^ in honour of the celebrated Ruffian na-
vigator, who landed on this part of America in
1741. Behind it we found to the eaft ward a large
bay which I alfo named Tfchirikow bay. At feven in
tlie evening I faw a clufter of five iflands f , feparated
from the continent by a channel four or five leagues
wide, which neither Capt. Cook nor the pilot Mau-
♦ Thefe two bays, which La Péroufe named Ar. Necier^ and Port
Guiierft «re fo near together, that it is impoflible to afcertain in
which of them Dixon anchored. But that navigator having failed
along the (hore, to the rieht and left of his anchoring place, which
he called Port Banks, onfy found bays much fmaller than that he
entered, and thofe totally uninhabited.
The latitude of Port Banks is 56° 35', its W. long, from Paris
137020'. — frencit Editor.
■\ Dixon has diilinguifiied thefe five iflands by the name of Fo^gy
JJlands. La Péroufe has placed them in 55° 50' N. lat. and 1 37° 1 1'
W. long. Dixon in 55° 50' N. lat. and 137* o' 45", reduced to the
meridian of Paris. 1 deem it unneceflary to detail the r'^afons, why
the place afligned them by La Péroufe ought on every account to be
prerrned,— F/rwiJ» Editor,
. ' ' rcllo
1786.] ROimD THE WORLD. 177
Tcllo have noticed. T named thçm IJles de la Croyhey
from the celebrated French Geographer, Delifle de la
Croyère, who accompanied Capt.Tfchirikowj and who
died during thac voyage. As night,was coming on I
fhaped a courfe to pafs outfide of them. The wefter-^
ly breeze continued in our favour throughout the
eighth, when, by obfervation, we were in 55" 39'' 31''
N. lat. and 137** 5' 23" W. long, according to our
time-keepers. We perceived feveral great openings
between conliderable iflands, which prefentcd them-
felves to us in various points of view, the continent
being fo far from us, that we no longer perceived it.
This new Archipelago, which is very different from
the preceding, commences four leagues to the S. É.
of Cape Tfchirikow, and apparently extends as far as
Cape He6lor. The currents in tne vicinity of thefe
iflands were very ftrong, and we felt their influence,
though at a diftance of three leagues. Port Bucarelli
of the Spanifh pilot Maurello is in this part. I could
not underftand either his chart or the difcourfe in^
tended to elucidate it : but his volcanos, and his Pott
Bucarelli are (ituated in iflands 40 leagues perhaps
from the continent. I confefs I fliould not be much
furprifed, if from Crofs Sound we had only coafted
along iflands * : for the appearance ï)f the coaft was
very different from that further to the northward, and
I faw the high chain of Mount Crillon extending tO'
the eaflward as far as I could diftinguifli.
On the morning of the ninth, continuing to fail a-
Jong the coaft at a diftance of three leagues, I faw the
ifles of San Carlos, the principal of which lies S. Ë.
m
;■;;• Jifl
itii
4t
* Dfxon is of the fame opinion, which appears to be confirmed
by every probability,—" fo that we were near the middle of the
* ifliind towardi the northward and eaftward. In this fituation we
faw high land to the N. W. near 30 leagues diftant, and which
" evidently was the fame we had feen on the firft of July. This cir-
^ cumftance clearly pioved the land we had been coafting along
•• for near a month, to bei» group of iflands." Dixon's Foyage, p.
at;. — French EdUor.
Vol.. L N ' and
178 LA pérouse's voyage [1786.
and N. W., and may be two leagues in circumfer-
ence. A long chain connects it with other little
illands, which are very low, and ftretch far out into the
channel. I am perfuaded however, there is a channel
of confiderable width *, though I was not fufRciently
certain to attempt it, particularly, as 1 muft have en-
tered it before the wind, and in cafe my conje6lure
was ill founded, it would have been extremely diffi,
cult to have weathered the iflands of San Carlos,
while I (hould lofe that time which was extremely
precious. I therefore ranged along that fartheft
from the continerit, at the diftance of half a league,
and as I had , its S. E. point bearing E. and W. at
the fame diftance at noon, we afcertained its place
with the greatefl; precifion, being 54° 48' N. lat.
and 136° ig^W.Iong.
Having now a flrong breeze from the W. N. W.
with foggy weather, I ftood in under a crowd of fail
for the land, which became covered with fog as we
approached. At half pafl: feven in the evening we
were fcarcely a league dift:ant, and yet I could with
difficulty diftinguifh it, though I perceived the breakers
from the deck. I had then a large cape bearing E. N.
E. by the compafs ; but feeing nothing beyond it,
we could not poffibly determine the direélion of this
land. I therefore refolved to put about, and wait
for clearer weather. The fog, however, never dif-
perfed but for a fingle moment.
On the 10th of Auguft towards noon, we were in
54° 20' N, lat. by obfervation, and 135° 20' 45" W.
long, by our time-keepers. I had ftretched in for the
land at four in the morning, and perceived it during
this clear interval at a league and half diftance to the
S. E. ; when it refembled an ifland. But the glean]
was fo tranfient, and fo limited in extent, that it was
f This channel fcems to be real. Dixon alfo faw it, and made
ufe of it to delineate^ though partly by guefs, the lirait to which he
}ia? given hi» own name,— /)fWi^ Editor.
', t , ^ ijupofliblc
1786.J ROUND THE world/ 179
impoffible to diftinguifh any thing. We had not
even fufpedled land in that point of the compafs ;
which increafed our uncertainty concerning the di-
rection of the coail. We had in the night crofîèd
the moft rapid currents I had ever experienced in the
open fea ; butas we found no difference between our
obfervaiions and reckoning, it is probable they were
occafioned by the tide, and therefore counteraéted
each other.
In the night between the 10th and 1 1th, the wea-
ther became very bad : the fog thickened, it was
very frefli, and I tacked to the offing. At day-
break we flood in again for the land, and got fo
clofe in (hore as to recognize, at one o'clock, the
fame point we had feen the preceding evening, ex-
tending from N. N. E. to S. E. by S. ; and thereby
connected almoft all our bearings, except an inter-
val of 8 or 9 leagues, where we did not fee land,
whether owing to the fog, or fome deep bay or other
opening : br; ^ ^ould rather fuppofe the latter, from
the violenc: he currents. Had the atmofphere
been clearer, no doubt would have been left on this
fubjecSt, for we got within a league of the Ihore, and
diftinélly perceived the breakers. The coafl trends
much more to the S. E. than I (hould have imagined
frorn the chart of the Spanifti pilot, which cannot be at
all relied on. We obferved at noon in 54° g^ 20" N.
bt. and I continued to range the coaft, at a league
diftance, till four in the afternoon, when the fog was
fo thick, that we could not diftinguifh the Aftrolabe,
though within hail. I therefore flood out to the fea.
We had no clear interval on the 12th, and I got
ten leagues from the land in confequence of my
uncertainty refpeéling its dire6lion. On the 13th
and 14th the weather was foggy and almofl: calm;
but I took advantage of fome light breezes, to near
the coaft, from which wc were ftill Ave leagues dif-
tant at fix in the evening. • •. ..w
N2 Since
m
if il
ISO L> PB»OU9B*8 V0YA9E [l789.
*j Since we pafîèd the iflands of San Carlos we could
not llrikc ground, even at a league from the land,
with a line of 120 fathoms.
On the morning of the 15th we got within two
leagues of the coaft, which in fome parts was fkirted
by breakers, extending a conlidcrable diflance towards
the offing. The wind was eafterly, and we faw a
fpacious bay. Our horizon was very exteniive, the*
the fky was overcaft, and we diftingui(hed 18 or 20
leagues of coaft on each fide, extending from N. N.
E. to S. S. W. and feeming to run S. S. E. and N.
K. W. much more to the fouthward than I had ima-
gined.
At eight in the morning I was obliged to fland out
to fea, on account of a thick fog that enveloped us,
and which continued till the l6th at ten o'clock,
when we had a very confafed view to the N. E. but
the fog foon obliged us to regain the offing. The
whole of the 17 th was calm, the mift at length dif-
perfed, and I faw the coaft at eight leagues diftance.
Though there was not wind enough to near it, we
took excellent lunar obfervations, for the fiïû time
iince our departure from Port des Fra?tçais. Our
latitude was 53^ 1 2' 40" north, and longitude, by our
time-keepers 136° 52' 57'^, and the mean refult of
the diftances of the fun and moon gave 137° 27^ 58"
or as'' 1^^ more to the weftward : and that of the
Aftrolabe 1 5 minutes lefs. The breeze having frelh-
ened from the W. N. W„ and the weather continu-
ing clear, I approached the knd> and on the 18th at
noon was only a league and a half diflant. Preferving
that diftance, I ranged along the coaft, and faw a
bay ftretching fo far in Iqnd, that I could not per-
ceive its (bores. I called it £a Touche Bay. Its
N. lat. is 52° 3g^, and its long. 134° 4^ weft, and I
doubt not it affords very good anchorage.
A league and a half further to the eallward, we faw
a bight, where fhips might poiiibly find ^ fhchcr
ti^--c ■ -■ • equally
••♦
1786.] îlôUtîtt tHÊ WORLD» 181
equally fecure ; but it appeared much inferior to La
Touche Bay. From 55 to 53° the fea was covered
with the fpecies of diver, called by Buffbn macareux
de Kamtjchatha. Its body is black, its beak and feet
red, and two white ftreaks rife like a tuft upon its
head, (imilar to thofe of the catakoua. We faw fome
of thefe birds to the fouth ward, but more rarely, and
thole appeared mere birds of pafliige. Thefe birds
never go above five or fix leagues out to fea, and
therefore, when navigators meet with them in foggy
weather, they may almoft certainly infer the vicinity
of land. We killed two, which were fi:uffcd. This
bird was unknown previous to the voyage of Behring.*
On the IQth at night we faw a cape, apparently
terminating the coafl: of America. The horizon was
very clear, and we only perceived four or five fmall
iflands near it, which I named IJlots Kerouart, and
the point Cape Heélor.f Wc were becalmed during
the whole night at three or four leagues from the land,
which a light breeze enabled me to approach at day-
break. I was then convinced the coaft we had fol-
lowed for 200 leagues terminated here, forming in all
probability the entrance of a very extenfive gulf, or
channel, for I perceived no land to the caftward,
though the weather was very clear. I therefore di-
reded my courfe to the northward to dilcover the
oppofite fide of the land I had coafi^ed to the eafi;ward.
I ranged along the Kerouart Iflands and Cape He6lor,
at a league dillance, and crofled fome very ftrong cur-
rents, which even obliged me to bear away and fi^and
off from the coaft. The pofition of Cape He61or,
which forms the entrance of this new channel, ap-
'ki P
* Capt. Cook alfo met with this fpecies on the coaft of Alalka.
French Editer.
t This is the Cape St. James of Dixon, of which the north la-
titude is according to La Péroufe Çideg. 57 min. 20 fee. W. long.
i33deg. 37 min.; according to Dixon N.iat. 51 deg. 46 min. W.
long, reduced to the meridian of Paris 1 3 2 deg. 20 min.— /> . Editor*
' N 3 peared
182 LA perouse's voyage [I78(>.
peared to me very important to determine. Its N.
lat. is 5 1" 57' 20" and its W. long, by our time-keep-
ers 133° 37^. Night coming on, prevented my get-
ting further to the northward, and I therefore fpent it
in making fhort boards. At day-break I fleered the
fame courfe as the preceding evening, and the weather
being clear, faw the oppofite coaft of La Touche Bay,
which I named C//^ Buache ; and above 20 leagues of
the eaft coaft, along which I had ranged on the pre-
ceding days. Recolle6ling the outline of the land from
Crofs Sound, I was much inclined to think this bight
refembled the fea of California, and extended to the
57th degree of N. lat. : but neither the feafon, nor my
other objeéls admitted of my determining this point.
I refolved, however, to afccrtain the breadth eaft and
weft of this channel, or gulph, whichever it be called,
iliaping my courfe to the N. E. On the 2lft at noon,
Ï was by obfervation in 52° V N. lat. and 133° f 3l"
W. long, Cape Hcdlor bearing S. E. diftant 10 or 12
leagues ; but we could not ftrike ground without our
longeft line. The wind foon (hifted to the S, E. and a
thick fog fucceeded the clear flcy, which had that morn-
ing permitted us to difcover land 18 or 20 leagues dif-
tant. It now blew very ftrong, and it became impru-
dent longer to continue my courfe to the N. N. E. I
therefore hauled clofe to the wincj, and ftood off and
On during the night, under clofe-reefed topfails. At
day-break the wind having moderated, though the ho-
rizon was equally hazy, I ftood in again for the land,
which appeared at noon through the fog, our latitude
by account being then 52° 22': the coaft extended
from N. by E. to E. by N. our depth of water being
100 fathoms over a rocky bottom. After a clear inter-
val of fhort duration the fog returned, and bad weather
appeared to be coming on. I therefore ftood out to the
ofiing, after having fortunately taken very good bear-
ings, and afcertained the width of the channel, or
gulph, from eaft to weft ; which was about 30 leagues
, , , , . between
î786.] kOUND THE WORLD. ' 183
between Cape He(^or and Cape Fleurieu *, giving it-
the fame name as to the ifland lying moft to the S. E*
of the new clufter i had difcovered on the eaflern coaft
of this channel. It was behind this clufter of iflands I
perceived the continent, where the primary mountains,
deftitute of trees, and covered with fnovv, appeared
at various diftances, and having peaks which appear-
ed to be above 30 leagues inland. Yet we had only
feen little hills fince we palïèd Crofs Sound, and my
conjcdlures concerning a bight of fix or feven de-
grees to the northward became ftill more probable.
The feafon precluded my further lucidating this
opinion, it being already the end of Auguft, the fogs
almoft uninterrupted, and the days (liortened. But
a much more important confideration, the danger of
milîing the monfoon of China, induced me to aban-
don this refearch, to which we muft have facrificed at
leaft fix weeks, on account of the precautions necef-
fary in this kind of navigation, which ought only to be
undertaken in the longcft and fineft days of the year,
A whole feafon would fcarcely fuffice for fuch an ex-
pedition, which ought to be the obje6l of a feparatc
voyage. Ours was infinitely more comprehenfivci
and therefore its defign was accompliflied by an exa6l
determination of the width of the channel, which w6
ran up about 30 leagues to thù northward. We alfo
ttfcertained the latitudes and longitudes of the Capes,
which form its entrance, with a precifion entitled to
equal confidence with thofe of the moft remarkable
capes of the coafts of Europe. I perceived with cha-
grin, that during 23 days fince we departed from Bate
des Français, we had made very little way ; and we
had not a moment to lofe before our arrival at Mon-
terey. The reader will eafily perceive, that during
* Dixon calls it Cape Cos. Its N. lat. according to La Péroufe,
is 51 deg. 45 rain. W. long. 131 deg. 15 min. according to Dixon,
N. lat. 51. deg. 30 roin. VV. long, from Paris 130 deg. 32 min. —
French Et/i.'cr.
'm
N4
the
I
184 LA PÉROUSE*^S VOYAGE [\7S6.
the whole courfe of this expedition, my imagination
and ideas wore extended 2 or 300Q leagues from my
Ihip, becaufe my courfe lay through the region of the
inonfoons, or was fubjeift to the influence of feafons,
in all the parts of either hcmifphere we were deftin-
ed to explore : being obliged to navigate in high la-
titudes, and to traverfe between, New Holland and
New Guinea, ftraits apparently fubjedl to the fame
monfoons, as thofe of the Moluccas or the iflands of
that fea.
The fog was very thick during the night, and I
fteered S. S. W, At day-break we had an interval
of very clear weather, which, however, was of fhort
duration. At 11 o'clock the atmofphere became
quite clear. We then had Cape Fleurieu bearing
N. E. by N., and took excellent obfervations. Our
N. lat. was 51° 47' 54", and our W. long. 132"
Q'' 50" by our time -keepers. We were becalmed
the whole day, but the wind changed to the N. W.
after fun-fet, with a very hazy horizon, before which
I had fet Cape Fleurieu bearing N. by E., its latitude
and longitude as determined by M. Dagelet being
51** 45', and 131° O' 15".
I have already faid this Cape forms the point of a
very high ifland, behind which I then no longer per-
ceived the continent. It was concealed by the fog,,
which became Hill thicker during the night : and I
often loft light even of the Aftrolabe, though within,
hearing of her bell..
At day-break the fky was clear, and Cape Fleurieu
bore N. W. 18° W. diftant 1,8 leagues. The con-
tinent -extended to the caftward^ and the horizon,
though rather hazy, admitted of my perceiving it at
adiftance of 20 leagues. I flood' to the eaftvvard in.
order to approach it, but the coaft wiis prefently ob-
fcured again, though a clear fpace to the S. S. E. allow-
ed me to difcover a cape in that point of the compafs.
I now changed my courfe, to avoid being embayed,
■:, - by
1786. 1 ROUND THR WORLD. 185
by running to the eaftward, before the wind, to a
gulph from which I (hould find it difficult to get out^
But I foon perceived this land to the S. S. E., toward»
which I was ftcering, confided of feveral cluftcrs of
iflands, extending from the continent to the illands
in the offing, and on which I did not perceive a fingle
{hrub. I pafled within a mile of them, and favv gra(»
and drift wood upon the fliore. The latitude and lon-
gitude of the wefternmoft of them was 50° 56', and
131° 38^ I named thefe various clufters, IJles Sar-
tine* Probably a paflage might be found between
them ; but it would be imprudent to attempt it with-
out much precaution. After weathering them, I
flood in for the continent, Iteering E. S. E. It ex-
tended from N. N. E. to S. E. by E., and the horizon
was fomewhat hazy, though confiderably extcnfivc j
and if we could not perceive the fummits of the
mountains, we perfe<i\Iy diftinguiflied the low lands.
I flood off and on all night, to avoid paffing the
woody point of Captain Cook, which that navigator
laid down, forming a continuation of the coaft from.
Mount St. Elias to Nootka, and whicli, by affijrding
me an opportunity of comparing our longitudes with
his, baniihed every doubt that might have remained
concerning the accuracy of our obfci-vations. At day-
break I flood in for the land^ and pafled at the dif-
tance of a league and half of the woody point, which,
at noon, bore N. by W., diftant about three leagues.
Its lat. is precifely 50° 4^ N.,and its long. 1 30° 2b\ W.
Captain Cook, who did- not approach lb near this
point, and only determined its place by bearings,;
lays it down in his chart ift 50°, and 130° 1& (me-
ridian of Paris) that is four miles more to the fouth-
ward, and five miles more to the eaflward. But
our obfervations deferve more confidence, becaufe
* The iflands of Beresford of Captain Dixon, who lays them
down in 50 deg.cs min. N. lat., and 13a deg. 3 min. VV. long, from
the meridian of rai ii. — French Editor. - ■
we
i'
mm in
rm ,
185 LA pIrouse's voyage | 178^.
wc were much nearer to the land, and our reckoning
was lefs fubjcél to error with regard to the diftanccw
I may here be allowed to remark the aftonifliing pre-
cifion of the new method, which will, in lels than a
century, aicertain the true place of every fpot of the
earth, and contribute more to the advancement of
geography, than the united labours of every preced-
ing age.
On the 25th I continued to run to the eaflward to-
wards the entrance of Nootka, which I was defirous
to make before night, although it could not be very
important, after having precifcly determined the pofi-
tion of the woody point. A very thick fog, which
arofc at iive in the evening, entirely concealed the
land, and I direded my courfe towards Breaker's
Point, 15 leagues to the fouthward of Nootka, in
order to furvey the coaft between Cape P'lattery and
that point, a fpace of about 30 leagues, which Capt.
Cook had no opportunity to explore.
On the 26th the weather was very foggy, and the
wind ihifted between N. E. and S. E. by fudden
fqualls : the barometer fell, but there was no wind.
Thus we were becalmed, and had not age-way till
the 28th. I had taken advantage, however, of
feme, light breezes to get off the coall, which I
imagined to trend to the S. E. We were now fur-
rounded by fmall land birds, that rcfted on our rig-
ging, and fevcral of which we took ; but their fpecics
are fo commorTin Europe, as not to merit defcrip-
tion. At length on the 28th, at five in the evening,
we had a clear interval, when we recognized and
fet Cook*s Breaker's Point, which bore north, the
Lnd ftretching from thence to the N. E., and,
although the clear interval was of lliort duration, it
afforded us an opportunity of taking good bearings.
The atmofphore was equally obfcure on the 29th
of Auguft ; but the barometer rofe, and I flood in
for the land, hoping for clear weather before night.
1786.] ROUND THE WOULD. ' itf
and founding every half hour. We pafîcd from 70
fathoms water, with a fandy bottom, to one of round
Hints and 4o fathoms ; and (landing on, after a league
fell again into 75 fathoms water, with a bottom of
muddy fand. It wîls evident we had palled over a
bank, though it is not very caly to explain, how a
mountain of round flints lôO feet high, and a league
in extent, fhould be placed on a flat bed of fand eight
leagues in the offing. We know thefe flints become
round only by continual friction, and this accumula-
tion at the bottom of the fca, fuppofes a current fimi-
lar to that of a river.
At length my hopes of the fog difperfingat fun-fet
were realized, and \vc took a furvey of the land from
E. N. E. to N. \V. by N., a furvey which exactly-
united with that of the preceding evening. We wrrr.
at noon in 48° 37^ by oblervation, and our longi-
tude 128° 21' 4'l" by our time-keepers. The laft
point we had fecu ben ring S. E. could not be above
fix or feven leagues tVom Cape Flattery, which I was
very delirous to uiake, had not the fog been too thick.
On the 30th the fca became very heavy, and the
wind variable between S. and S. W., when 1 Hood
out to fea. Having an horizon of Icfs than half , a
league, I fl^eered a courfe parallel to the coafr, in
order fpeedily to arrive in 47°, and explore it as far
as 45°, that interval forming a hiatus in Ciiptain
Cook's chart.
On the 111: September, I got fight, at noon, of a
point or ea{)e, bearing N. N. E. diflant about 10
leagues, and precifely in 47° by our bearings. The
eoaft trended to the eafuvard, and I approached within
three or four leagues of it : but its outline was indif-
tinét, and all its windings obleured in fog. Our Int.
obferved at noon, was 46° 36^ 2 1" N., our long. 127°
2' 5" W. by our time-keepers, and 12(3° 33^ by lunar
obfervations. The currents on this eoaft are uncom-
monly violent. We were in a vortex that did not.
- -, . , . ' permit
188 LA pinOUSE's VOYAGE [l7Ô(J.
permit the fhip to fleer, tliough with a wiiul thut
would have carried us three miles, an hour, and ut
a diilance of five leagues from land.
I ranged along the coaft during the night under
enfy fail, and fleering to the fouthward. At d.jy-
break I flood to the caflward, to near the land ; but
we were becalmed at four leagues from the fhore, and
ioiTcd about by the currents, which made us put
about every moment, and kept us in continual fear of
running foul of the Aftrolabe, who was in no better
iituation. Fortunately we had a good muddy bot-
tom to anchor upon, had the currents fet us in fhorc ;
but the fea was very heavy, and our cables would,
with difficulty, have relifted the pitching of the fliip.
Cape Rcdondo of the Spaniards bore E. 5° S , and
the land ftrctchcd from thence to the S. Our lati-
tude at noon was 45° 55' N., and our longitude 126*^
47' 35" W. by our time-keepers, and 120*^ 22' by
lunar obfcrvations. The weather had at laft admitted
of thcfc obfcrvations the preceding evening, which
was but the fécond opportunity finee our departure
from Fori des Français. They differed from our
tim'fc-kecjjers only 25' 35". This calm day was one
of the moft uncafy we had pafled finee our departure
from France. We had not a breath of wind during
the night, but founded every half hour, in order to
drop anchor, notvvithftanding the heavy fea, in cafe
we were drifted towards the 'land; but we always
found 80 fathoms water over a muddy bottom.
At day-break we were at the fame diftance from the
fliore as the preceding evening, and we obferved, ar«
on the day before, in 45° 55' ; our bearings were
nearly the fame, and being driven to and fro by cur-
rents, which counteraéled each other, we feemed to
■ have been turning, as it were, upon a pivot, during
24 hours.
At length, at three o'clock, a light breeze fprung
up from the N. N. W. by tlie aid of which we were
\:- "- : • . -. , • able
1780] ROUND THF. WORLD. I89
able to gain an offing, and get out of the cuircnts, in
which we had been engaged during two days. This
breeze carried before it a body of rnirt, in which wc
were enveloped, and which made us lofe fight of {he
laud. We had now fcarcely more than five or fix
leagues of coaft to plow as far as lat. 45*^, where Cap-
tain Cook's obfervations recommenced. The wc^i-
iher was too favourable, and I was too much prcficd
for time, not to take advantage of this fair wind.
We therefore crouded fail, and (leered S. by E.*almoft
parallel to the coaft, which lay N. and 3.' The night
was fine, and at day break we faw land bearing N. by
E. the Iky being clear in that quarter, though very
foggy to the eaftward. We faw the coall, how-
ever, to the E. N. E. and as far as E. S. E. i\t timrs,
though only for a moment. At noon, our latitude,
by obfervation, was 44" 41'' N., and our longitude
126° 5(y \7" W. by our time-keepers, at about ( ighi.
Icîigues from the coail, which we approached by ilc?r-
ing a little more to the eallward. At fix in the evening
our diftance off (bore was four leagues, and the land
extended from N. E. to E. S. E. and was very micli
covered by fog. The night was fine, and 1 ranged
along the coaft, which we diftinguifhed by moon-
light. The fog obfcured it at fun-rife, but it emerg-
ed at noon, during a clear interval, extending fruni
N. E. to S. by E. the depth of water being 75 fathoms.
Our latitude was 42° 58^ 56", and our lovigitude,
by the time-keepers, 127*' 5^ 20". At two o'clock
we were a-breafl: of nine fmal! iflands, or rocks, ly-
ing about a league off Cape Blanco, which bor. N.
E. by E. : I named them Necker IJÎands. I continued
to range along the land, fleering S. S. E. At three
or four leogues diftance we only perceived the fum-
mits of mountains above the clouds, covered v/ith
trees, and without fnow. At night the land ftret'^hed
as far as the S. E. but our people 'ooking out at the
maft-hcad declared they fiu^ it iis far as the S. by E.
Uncertain of the dircdtion of this coalt, which had
never
S.''!|
wMM\
- N/
19© . I.A PÉRpUSE*S VOYAGE [l789.
never been explored, I made eafy fail, fleering S.
S. E. At day-break we ftill perceived the land, extend-
ing from the N. to N. by E. I fleered S. E. by E. to
approach it, but at fevcn in the morning a thick fog
e"<^irely concealed it. Wc found the atmofphcre Icfs
purt in this part of America than in high latitudcvS,
where navigators enjoy, at leall by intervals, a view
of every thing that is above their horizon, whereas
here the windings of the land did not become once
diflinélly vifible. On the 7th the fog became ftill
thicker than the preceding day ; yet it cleared away
towards noon, when we f-iw funimits of mountains
to the eaftward, at a confiderable diftance. As we
had made good a fouth courfc, it is evident that from
4QP the coaft begins to fly otF to the eaflward. Our
lat. was at noon, by obfcrvation, 40^ [48'' 30" N.
and our long. \Q.QP 59' 45" W. by the time-keep-
ers ; and I continued to ftand in for the land, from
which I vi'as only four leagues diftant at the clofe of
day. We then perceived a volcano, at the top of a
mountain bearing E. the flame of which was very
bright ; but a thick fog foon entirely concealed this
objeél, and we were again obliged to ftretch oft^ from
the land. As I feared, that by fleering parallel to the
Goaft, wc might fall in with fome ifland or rock, lying
at a diftance from the continent, I flood out to fea, for
the fog was very thick. On the 8th, towards 10 o'clock
in the morning, wc had a clear interval, when we
perceive3 the fummit of the mountains, but an
impenetrable barrier of fog concealed the low-lands
from our view. The weather had now become very
bad, it blew very frefh, and the barometer fell con-
flderauly. I therefore continued running to the S, E.
till the clofe of the day ; a courfe which, by keeping
along the coafl, would bring us nearer to it, but we
had loft fight of it fince noon, and the horizon was
fo thick at dufk, that I might have been very near the
fhore without being able to diftinguifli it. As there'
was an appearance of a gale of wind, and fliould it
come
1786.1 nOUND THIÎ WORLD. IQl
come from the W. I {hould be embayed, I refolved to
ftand off under the fore-Hiil and main-top-fail. It foon
blew hard, but not equal to what I cxpcéted. At day-
break the fky was clouded, but the wind moderated,
and I flood in to the eaftward for the land. The fog
foon obliged me to change my eourfc, and ftccr nearly
parallel to the eoaft, which I fuppofed to iie S. by E.
The atmofphere was no clearer on the 10th and 1 1th,
and the rofult of our courfes thefe two days was
alfo S. by E. ; our horizon never extending to two
leagues, and being very often Icfs than a mulket-
ihot. Our latitude however was 36^ 58'' 43'' by ob-
fervation, and our longitude, by the time-keepers,
120^ 32'' 5". Either the currents or a bad reckon-
ing had carried us 30 miles to the fouthv/ard, but
we were ftill l6 miles to the northward of Monte-
rey. T fleered E. Handing rig-ht in for the l.ind ; for
though the atmofphere was ù)'j:gy, we had im horizon
of two leagues. I flood oft"' and on throughout the
night, and the fl^y was equally cloudy the next day,
but I continued flanding in for the (hore. At noon cur
longitude was 124*^ 52^, but I did not fee land. The
fog returned at four in the afternoon, and I deter-
mined to make diort boards, "'.'11 the weather be-
came clearer. We mufl then have been very near
the coafl, as feveral land-birds hovered around our
(hips, and we took a gyrfalcon. The fog continued
throughout the night, and at 10 the next morning we
perceived the l.'md very much covered with fog, and
very near us. It was impoffible however to diftin-
guifh it, though I approached within a league, and
faw the breakers very di^inétly, being in 25 fathoms
water ; but though I was certain we were then in
the bay of Monterey, it was impoffible to difcover the
Spanifh fettlement in fuch foggy weather. At duflc
I again flood out to fea, and the next day fleered
in for the land with a thick fog, wliich did not dif-
appear till noon. I then kept the coall clofe aboard,
-'. and
^■..ii
ig2 LA PÉROUSE's VOYAGE [J7â0.
and at three in the afternoon we got fight of tlie fort
-of Monterey, and two three mailed (hips in the road.
The contrary winds obliged us to anchor two leagues
from the land, in 45 fathoms, over a muddy bottom ;
and the next <lay we dropj)ed anchor two cables
•length off fhore, in 12 fathoms water. The com-
mandant of thefe two fhips, Don Eftevan Martinez,
fent us pilots on board during the night, having been
apprized of our cxpeéled arrival in this bay by the
Viceroy of Mexico and the Governor of the Prefidio.
' It is remarkable, that during this long run, though
conftantly enveloped in the thickeft fogs, the AUro-
lable was always within hail, till I gave her orders
to reconnoitre the entrance of Monterey.
i Before I conclude this chapter, which will only be
Interefting to geographers and navigators, I think it
neccflàry to declare my opinion on Admiral Fucntes's
channel of St. Lazarus. I am convinced no fuch Ad-
miral ever exifted *, and that a navigation in pie in-
terior of Ameiica, acrofs lakes and rivers, performed in
ib (hort a fpace of time, is io abfurd, that nothing but
that love of fyftem, fo prejudicial to every fcience,
would have prevented geograpers of a certain re-
putation from rejeéling this hillory : a hiftory, total-
ly deftitute of probability, and fabricated in Eng-
land, at a time when the partizans and oppofers of
the N. W. pafliige fupported this opinion, with as
much entbuiiafm, as could at that time have fired
the public mind in France, on queflions of theology
ftill more ridiculous and futile. The legend of
Admiral Fuentes refembles thofe pious frauds, which
found reafon has fmce rejeded with contempt, and
which cannot bear the light of inveftigatioii. But
it may be confidered almoil certain that from Crofs
Sound, or at leall from Poit dc Los Remcdios to
Cape Heéior, all the navigators have only coaft-
j^ * See note on page 107.
cd
i786.J ROUND THE WOftLD. 1^3
ed the iflands fituated in 52°, and that bctweeti
thefe and the continent is a channelj whofe breadth
eaft and weft may be confidcrable, though I do not
think it can exceed 50 leagues, as it is reduced to 30
at its mouth, between Cape Fleurieu, and Cape Hen-
tor. This channel is probably full of ifla^ ids, which
render its navigation difficult ; and I am verfua.ded,
that between thefe iflands are many paliages com-
municating with the great ocean. Port de los Re-
medios, and Port Bucarelli of the Spaniards, are at a
grfcat diftance from the continent, and were not the
form of taking pofleflion without eftablifliinga fettle-
ment too ridiculous to found a title, that of Spain to
this part of the continent might be juftly contefted.
For it is demonft rated, that Maurello did not even fee
that continent from 50° to 57** 20^ : and I am abfo-
lutely certain, that to the northward of Crofs Sound,
at Port des Français, vi^& were in America itfelf; becaufc
the river of Behring in 59° 9'' is too confiderable to be
met with in any land th'Jt is not of an immenfe depth.
I was delirous to reconnoitre it by our boats, but the
current was fo rapid at its mouth, they could not
ftem it. Our fhips anchored at its entrance, and
ibe water was white and frefh three or four leagues
out at fea. Thus it is probable, that the channel be-
tween the iflands and the continent does not run fur-
ther to the porthward than 5^^ 30^. I know, geo-
graphers may, with a ftroke of their pen, draw a line
to the N. E., leaving Port des Français and Behring
river in America, and extend their channel to the
north and to the eaft, to the utmoft boundary of their
imagination : but fiich a proceeding, unfupported by
fi.Jls, is a mere abfurdity, and it is very probable, that
on the coaft of America, which forms the eaftern fliorc
of this channel, the mouth of fome other river, per-
haps navigable, may be found, as it is hardly poflible
the declivity of the land fliould {lii'e<^ them all to
the eaftward. Behring river would itfelf form an ex-
VoL. I. Q ception
L- IE
^m
I
I
m
194 LA pérouse's voyage [l786.
ception to that rule. Nor is it probable, there (hould
even be a bar at the mouth of thefe fuppofed rivers,
becaufe this channel, which is not very wide, is fhel-
tered by the iilands oppofite to it to the weftward :
whereas bars are known to be formed by the reaélion
of the fea on the currents of rivers *.
* This chapter, fo iiiterefting, to navigation on the great fcale,
fiill leaves fomething to be done for the fatisfaétion of feamen, and
geographers, particularly the partizans of a northern paflage.
Though myfelf of that opinion, I cannot but obferve, that had
La Péroufe determined to reconnoitre all the bays, and all the great
openings, which that immenfe extent of coaft, interfperfed with
iilands, prefents, he mud have abandoned all the ulterior objeéls of
his voyage, and have direélly difobeyed his inflruétions.
The honour of completing the defcription of the habitable parti
of the globe, will belong to the 19th century. The important
queftion of a communication of the two feas to the northward of
America, will then be decided. Let us referve a place then in the
tablet of fame, for the immortal name of» the enterprifing naviga»
•tor, who ftiall difcover that communication. ,
To accelerate this period, let us remove every diflieartening in-
certitude, and let us add a few words to what we have already faid,
in the notes of page i, 107, and 172.
The fliip Padre Eterno, commanded by the Portuguefe Capt,
David Meiguer, departed from Jr pan in 1660, and ran to the
northward, nearly to the 84th degree of lat. ; from whence he fleer-
ed between Spitzbergen and Greenland, and palling to the weft-
ward of Scotland atid Ireland, returned to Oporto.
The Dutch Capt. Vannout, even pretends to hive actually got
into the South Sea by Hudfon's Straits.
I would alfo requeft thofe, who attend to this queftion, to read
the colleélion of obfervations on the probability of a N. W. paf-
fage, inferied in Capt. J. Meares's Yoyagcs.-^Frmcl!/ Editor, , .,.
UM,
Si.
%
"'**« if."-
i^^'J'itT.ln:
iii>-ftf!j:iâ
it tnki::y hi
.„• ,ii>t.J 30 Ï' ^■ï .'J'lC
'.►'^ iL} f;r;'Vi Wi^l ll^^-^y -ii^vh mixdifi . .,hit_ CHAP.
iiCJ
.KJ
*?
w
1786.]
ROUND THE WORLD.
CHAP. Xi.
1Q5
DESCRIPTION OP MONTEREY BAY-=— HISTORICAL AC-
COUNT OP THE TWO CALIPORNIAS, AND THE MIS-
- SIONS THERE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OP THB
CONVERTED, AND OP THE INDEPËNIJENT INDIANS
GRAIN, FRUIT, AND LEGUMINOUS PLANTS OP
EVERY KIND QUADRUPEDS, BIRDS, PISH, SHELLS,
ETC. MILITARY CONSTITUTION OP THESE TWO
PROVINCES PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO COM-
MERCE, ETC.
THE bay of Monterey, formed by New Year's Day
Point to the northward, and Cyprefs Point to
the fouthward, is eight leagues acrofs at its entrance
in that dire6tion, and nearly fix in depth to the eaft-
ward, where the lands are low and fandy. The fea
rolls in to the very foot of the downs of fand, with
which the coaft is ikirted, with a noife which we
heard at above a league diftance. The lands to the
liorthward and fouthward of this bay are elevated,
and covered with trees. Ships intenjding to put in here,
niufl keep the fouth (hore aboard, and after doubling
Fir Point, which ftretches out to the northward, they
will fee the Prefictio, and may drop anchor in ten
fathoms watef within, and behind this point, which
fiielters them from the fea breezes. The Spanifh
fliips that intend making a long (lay at Monterey,
are accu domed to approach within one or two cable's
length of the fhore, in fix fathoips water, where they
moor to an anchor which they bury in the fand of
'the beach. They are then (heltered from thé fouth
winds, which are fometimes very ftrong, though not
dangerous, as they blow off (bore. We got foundings
all over the bay, and anchored four leagues from
the land in 69 fathoms water, over a bottom of foft
O a ' mud.
\W:^
IQÔ LA pinOUSE's VOYAGE [1780.
mud. But the fea is very heavy there, and {hips can
only remain a few hours at fuch an anchorage, while
waiting for day light, or the clearing of a fog. At the
full and change of the moon it is high water at half
pall one, and the tide rifes feven feet ; as the bay is
yery open^ its drift is almoll imperceptible : I never
knew it more than half a knot an hour. I cannot de-
fcribe the number or familiarity of the whales that
furrounded us. They were continually blowing at
the diflance of half a piftol (hot, and occalioned a very
difagreeable fmcll in the air. This was an efFe6i un-
known to us, but the inhabitants informed us the water
blown by whales always had that quality, which fpread
to a confidcrable diflance. But it would doubtlefs
have been no new phenomenon to the lifhermcn of
Greenland, or Nantucket.
The coafl;s of Monterey Bay are covered by almofl
eternal fogs, which render it difficult of approach,
though in other refpeéls there fcarcely exifts a bay
more cafily entered ; for there is no funken rock a
cable's length from the beach, and if the fog is too
thick, there is anchorage every where, till a clear in-
terval expofc diftinélly to view the Spaniih fettle-
ment, lituatcd in the angles formed by the fouthern
and eaflern ihores.
The fea is covered with pelicans, but it appears thefe
birds never go above five or fix leagues from land ;
fo that navigators who perceive them during a fog,
will be certain they are within that diflance. We
faw them for the firft time in this bay, and I have fince
learned, that they are very common on all the coaft
of California. They are called by the Spaniards Al-
'catras.
/•'^ A lieutenant colonel, who rcfides at Monterey, is
governor of both the Californias. Though his go-
vernment is 800 leagues in circumference, his real
command extends but to 282 foldiers of cavalry, who
garrifon five finall forts, afKl furnifll detachments of
four
. •«■'M^rtA
»\ ^^
•4
w
1786.J BOUND THE WORLD. 107
four or five men to each of the 25 miffions, or pa-
rifhes, into which Old and New California are divided.
Thefe little guards fuffice to keep in fubjeélioi^
about 50,000 wandering Indians *, fprcad over this
\ai\ extent of the American continent, and of whom,
near 10,000 have embraced Chriftianity. Thefe Indi-
ans arc generally fmall and feeble, and afford no
proofs of that love of independence and liberty, which
chara6lerifes the northern nations, to whofe arts and
induftry they are (Irangers. Their complexion very
nearly refembles thofe negroes whofe hair is not woolly :
that of this nation is long, and very ftrong, and they
cut it four or five inches from the roots. Several of
them have beards, while others, according to the Mif-
fionaries, never had any ; though it is an undecided
point in the country itfelf ^f-. The governor, whp
had travelled much in the interior, and had lived with
the favages during 1 5 years, aflured us, thofe who
had no beard, had extracted it with bivalve (hells,
ufed as pincers. But the prefident of the miilions,,
who had refided in California an equal length of tifltic,
maintained the contrary. Thus travellers are v/hplly
unable to form a decifion, and as we cannot aflèrt
what we have not witnefied, we muii acknowledge
we only faw beards on one half .of the number of
adults : fome of them having it fo thick, as to have
made a refpeélable figure, even in Turjiey, or the
.environs of Mofcow J.
Thefe Indians are very adroit in the ufe of the bow,
And killed .the fmalleft birds in our prefence. It is true,
* They qhange their refidence very often, according to thefiihiog
and hunting jCcafon. f'^ir i?
+ We .have given our opinion ;«garding the beards of the Ame-
ricajis in the preceding chapter. But writing as we proceed on our
voyage, and as we adopt no (v'tiem, when we learn a new fa£l we re-
Jate it without hefitation. .' V/. '
t The governor had travelled much more than the miffionarv,
and his opinion would have carried mod weight, were I to decide
the queflion.
; O 3 ' their
t/ ,
m
îgd LA PÉnOtySE*S VOYAGB [l786.
their patience in getting near their prey is incon-
ceivable. They conceal themfelves while creeping
up to it, and rarely pull the bow, till within fifteen
paces.
Their induflry in hunting is ftill more furprifing.
We faw one of them crawling on all fours, with a
flag's head fixed on his own, as if he were broufing
the grafs ; and performing his part fo well, that all our
hunters would have fired at him at a difiance of 30
paces, had they not been apprifed of that manoeuvre.
Thus they approach a herd of flags within reach,
and kill them with their arrows.
Loretto is the only prefidio of old California on the
caflern coafl of that peninfula. Its garrifon confifts of
54 cavalry men, and furnifhes detachments to the 15
following miffions, of which the functions are per-
formed by the Dominican monks, who have fucceed-
ed the Jefuits and Francifcans. Thefe laft, however,
remain in undifturbed pofleflSon of the ten miflions
of New California. The 15 mifllions of the depart-
ment of Loretto, are San Vicente, S. Domingo, El
Rofario, S. Fernandez, S. Francefco de Borgia, S.
Gertrude, S. Ignacio, La Guadalupe, Santa Rofalia,
La Conception, S. Jofef, S. Francefco Xavier, Lo-
retto, S. Jofef de Cabo Lucar, and Todos los San-
tos. About 400 Indian converts, colle6led round
thefe 1 5 parifhes, are the only fruit of the long apof-
tlefhip of the various religious orders, who have fuc-
cefiiively undertaken this painful duty. In the hiftory
of California by father Venegas, we may read an ac-
count of the ellablifhment of the fortrcfs of Loretto,
and the various miffions it protects, whereby, com-
paring their pad condition with that of the prefent
year, it is evident their progrefsis very flow. As yet
there is only one Spanifh village. It is true, the cli-
mate is unhealthy, and the province of Sonora, which
forms tîie boundary of the Mar-Vermejo, or Red-Sea,
to the eaflward, and California to the weflward, is
n - , >' . much
1786.] ROUND THE WORLD. 1Q9
much more attra^live to the Spaniards, who find there
a fertile foil and abundant mines ; objeéls far more
important in their eyes, than the pearl fifhery of the
peninfula, which requires a conliderable number of
flaves, who can dive, and thefe often very difficult to
procure. Yet North California, notwithftanding its
great diilance from Mexico, appears to combine in-
finitely greater advantages. Its firft fettlement, which
is San Diego, commenced only on the 26th July
1769, and is the prefidio mod to the fouthward, as
that of Francefco is the mod northerly. This laft was
conilitutedon the QthOélober 1776, that of Santa Bar-
bara's Channel in September 1786, andlaftly, Mon-
terey, now the capital, and feat of government of both
Californias, on the 3d of June 1770. The road-
ftead of this prefidio, was difcovered in l602, by
Sebaflian Vizcayno, commodore of a fmall fqua-
dron equipped at Acapulco, by order of the Vifcount
of Monterey, who was Viceroy of Mexico. Since,
that epocha the galleons, on their return from Ma-
nilla, have fometimes put into this bay, to pro-
cure refrefhment after their long runs ; but it was
not till the year 1770, that the Francifcans eftabiifh-
ed their fir ft miflion there. They have now ten, com-
prehending 5143 converted Indians. The following
table will {how their names, dates, niMnber of bap-
tized Indians, and the prefidios on which they de-
pend. I will here obferve, that with the Spaniards,
Prefidio is a general name for all forts, whether in-
Africa or America, placed in the middle of a country
of infidels, and implying, that there are no other in-
habitants, than the garrilbn which rcfides within thp
citadel.
Xm-r
04
r- y;!'-:
'JW
Pnriihes5.
200
LA PÉ rouse's voyage
[1786
Parlflies.
San Carlos
San Antonio
San Luis
Santa Clara
San Francefco
San Buena Ventura
Santa Barbara
San Gabriel
Sanjuan-Capiflran
San Diego
Prefidioi on
which they
depend.
Monterey
idem
idem
San Francefco
idem
Santa Barbara
idem
idem
San Diego. .
idem
Dace of their
foundation.
3d June 1770
1 4th July mi
iftSept. 1772
1 8th Jan. 1777
9th Oa. 1776
3d May 1782
3d Sept. 1786
8th Sept. 1771
1 ft Nov. 1776
26th July 1769
Number of
Indians
convcited.
711
850
492
475
250
120
843
544
858
5143
The piety of the Spaniards has, at a heavy expence,
kept up thefe miffions and prefidios to the prcfcnt
time, from no other motive, than to convert and ci-
vilize the Indians of thefe countries ; a fyflem far
more praife- worthy than that of avaricious individuals,
who feem inveftcd with national authority, merely to
commit with impunity the crucllcft atrocities. The
reader will foon perceive, that a new branch of com-
merce may procure to Spain more folid advantages,
than the richeft mines of Mexico ; and that the falu-
brity of the air, the fertility of the foil, the abundance
of furs, for which they have a certain market in Chi-
na, give this part of America the moft important ad-
vantages over Old California, whofeunwholefomenefs,
and fterility, cannot be compenfated by a few pearls,
colle<5led from the bottom of the fea.
Before the Spaniards fettled here, the Indians of
California- only cultivated a little maize, and almoft
entirely fubiifted on fiftiing and hunting. No coun-
try abounds more in all forts of fi(h and game. Hares,
rabbits and ftags are very common ; otters, and fea-
wolves as abundant as to the northward ; and they kill
in winter a very large number of bears, foxes, wolves,
and
/,ff
^*
Vi.
JM.yll -h.,/,.
\
.MEROPS pf NORTH C A I^ T f-ORNT/
g
■ . . ' '' ■
. ■ ■■','-. ■ /"' '
WÊÊk
^—^/b
■ ',1/1''
1
h
¥■
1
mm\
^'^
*
1
*-■ *^ .. -"
. ■ * - * "
1^
V .*
* ' - , '' '
1 .■._"_
1
%
!
»
1786.] ROUND THE WOULD. 201
aiid wild eats. The coppices and plains are full of
iiidd; igrey, crefted partridges, which, like thofe of
£u(ope, flock together but in covies of three or
éO0.. Theyl arc fat, and very well flavored. The
(roes Bfe the habitation of the moft charming birds,
rv«i<4;Ou« dmithologifts fluffed many varieties, of the
' iparrciwSj 1?1m€ jays, tom-tits, fpotted magpies, and
trtauÊi^ii^f birds of prey were the white-
|]irfiw^âNt««|$^^^ falcon, gofs-hawk,
Jl|»n:^4£ii^ ll^ great horn-owl, and the
'^mm-^i lPhe«iWlf3àj|«^^ on pools, and on the
fcii^fti wére(^iiî9Éâ|j|j^,^ grey and white yel-
]&f various kinds, cor-
er, fmall gulls,
pt^lted a promerops,
to belong to
^bl4b^ni1
The feitUity of^ié^
forts of kguminoûs plaî
ma we «iriched the
miffions, with various feeds we Blpught from Paris.
They were perfe6tly well prefervéé, and will ipcreafe
the âock of ^heif^^jçï^oyments. ^,
"I ThchiBn;:ûfkoi'lB^^fh&r\€y^ wheat, and pcis, can^'
^^he-com^m^^S^ a fertility, of
|ll^irtbe^i<tiropiiy|^^ form no ade-
«Juste ideakH Itâjii^^^ pco(lM0e of corn is from 70
to 80 fbldy and^^,;«||^^ 6(^mé lOO. Fruit
lieei artt #yet ^^^0it^ lut ^e dirnate is pericét-
}^ adapt^sJltè thepi^lng nearty that of our Ibuthern-
iWîft pièvirices in feance. At leaft the cold is never
mère Icvere, though the heats of fummer are much
more modetate, in confequence of the perpetual
pifls, which fecundate the earth with confiant
moiilure.
The forefts contain the pine-npple fir, cyprefs,
;jpver-green oak, and wefl;ern plane-tree, all thinly
l^wn. A green-Award, very plealant for walking,
covers
ion. All
t perfedion,
govemer and
I'M'- 1
»\>v
•> •■ -.
202 LA pérouse's voyage [i780.
covers the earth within them, and they have open-
ings of many leagues, forming vaft plains amid the
furrounding forefts, and abounding in every fort of
game. The foil, though very fertile, is fandy and
li^ht, owing, I imagine, that excellence to the hu-
midity of the air, a« it is very ill watered. The near-
eft ftream to thé prefidio, is at a diftance of two
leagues : it is^a rivulet, which runs near the million
of San Carlos, and called by the ancient navigators
Rio de Carmel. This diftance from our Ihips was
too great for us to water there : we got it from
the ponds behind the fort, though the quality was
indifferent, hardly diflblving foap. The Rio de
Canhel, which furniihes a falubrious and agreeable
beverage to the miffionaries and their converts, might
with little labour be made to water their garden.
It is with the livelieft plcafure, that I defcribetbe
wife and pious conduct of thefe monks, who fo fully
correfpond with the objecfl of their inftitution; though
I (hall not conceal what I deem reprehcniible in their
internal adminiftration. But I declare, that good and
humane in their individual capacity, they temper the
Kufterity of the rules laid down by the fupcriors of
their order, with the mildnefs and benevolence of
their private character. Iconfefs, that more attached
to the rights of man than theology, I ftiould have
wifhcd them to combine with the principles of chrif-
tianity, a legiflation calculated to make citizens of a
race of men, whofe condition fcarcely differs from
that of the negroes of our colonies, in thofe planta-
tions which arc condu61:ed with moft mildnefs and
humanity.
' lam perfedly aware of the extreme difficulty of
this new plan. I know thefe men poHefs few ideas,
llill Icfs fteadinefs, and, if their condu6lors ceafc to
cDnficler thcni as children, run away from thofc who
have had liic labour of inilruéting them. I know too,
that reiiloniui.^ is almoft loft upon thcni, that an
appeal
1786.] ROUND THE WORLD. 203
appeal to their fenfes is neccfîàry, and that corporal
punifhments, with a double proportion of rewards,
have hitherto been the only means adopted by their
governors. But is it impoffible for men influenced by
ardent zeal, and poflèflèd of extreme patience, to de^
monftrate to a fmall number of families, the advan-
tages of a fociety founded on the rights of nations,
to eftablifh among them the iiiftitution of property^
fo engaging to the reft of mankind, and by this order
of things, to induce every one to cultivate his field
with emulation, or devote himfelf to fome other fpe-
cies of induftry.
I allow the progrefs of this new mode of civi-
lization would be very flow, the neceffary labour
of it very painful and tediouSj and the fcenes of a6lion
at very remote diftances ; fo that the applaufes due
to the chara6ler, who fliould devote his life to deferve
them, would never reach his ears. Nor am I afraid
.to confefs, that mere humanity is an inadequate mo-
tive to undertake the oflice. The enthufiafm to
which Religion gives birth, and the rewards flie pro-
mifes, can alone compenfate the facrifices, the tedi-
oufnefs, the fatigue, and the rifles of this mode of life.
I have 3nly to wifli the auftere, though charitable and
pious individuals, I met with on thefe millions, pof-
feflèd a little more of the true fpirit of philofophy.
I have already declared with freedom my opinion
of the monks of Chili, whofe irregularity appeared to
me a general fcandal * to their order. I fhall with
equal truth pourtray thofe truly apoftolic individuals,
who have quitted the lazy life of the cioifler, to en-
counter every kind of fatigue, of care, and of folici-
tude. I lliall as ufual give the narrative of our own
adventures, by relating their hiftory, and placing be-
* There are, however, among the monks of Chili, individuals of
great worth, though, in general, they enjoy a licence inconfillent
with the way of life they have embraced. ,, ,.
1 . fore
m^\]
11:11
r
204 LA PÉROUSE-S VOYAGE [l786.
fore the reader all we faw, or learned, during our Ihort
ftay at Monterey.
Wc anchored on the 14th of September in the even-
ing, two leagues off fhore, within fight of the prefidio,
and the two iliips that lay in the harbour. They had
fired a gun every quarter of an hour, to apprife us of
the anchoring place, which the fog might conceal from
us. At 10 o'clock at night, the Captain of the corvette
la Favorccida came on board in his long-boat, and of-
fered to pilot our (hip into the harbour. The corvette
h Prince/a alfo fent her long-boat with a pilot on
board the Aflrolabe. We then learned that thefe two
iTiips were Spaniih, and commanded by Don Eftevan
Martinez, lieutenant of marine of the department of
San Blap, in the province of Guadalaxara. The go-
vernment keeps up a fmall navy in that port, under the
orders of the Viceroy of Mexico, confifting of four
corvettes of 12 guns, and a fch(X>ner, whofe particular
defli nation is the victualling the prefidios of North
California. It was tbefc fcixie fhips, that performed
the lad voyage of the Spaniards on the N. W. coaft of
America. They are alfo fometimes fent as packet-
boats to Manilla, to carry with promptitude the dif-
patchcs of the court.
We had got under way at ten in the morning, and
anchored in the road at noon, where we were faluted
by feven guns, which we returned. I then fent an
officer to the governor with the letter of the Spanifh
minilier, delivered to me before my departure from
France. It was unfealed, and addrefled to the Vice-
roy of Mexico, whofe jurifdi6lion extends as far as
Monterey, though fituated 1 100 leagues (by land)
from his capital.
Scnor Fagas, commandant of the fort of the two
Californias, had already received orders to give us the
fame reception, as to the iliips of his nation ; and he
executed them with an air of gracioufnefs, and
warmtli of iutcreft, that deferve our finccreft grati-
tude.
1
I
1786.] ROUND THE WORLB, ? ' 205*
tude. He did not confine himfelf to kind expreflions,
but fent on board oxen, milk, and vegetables in great
abundance. The defircto lerve us, threatened even to
difturb the good underftanding that reigned between
the commandant of the two corvettes and the com-
mandant of the fort, each being defirous to engrofs
the right of excluliyely fu'pplying our wants ; and to
compcnfate thefe attentions, and balance the ac-
count, we were obliged to infill on paying for them,
before they would accept our money. The vege-
tables, the milk, the fowls, all the labour of the gar-
rifon, in affiflin^^^ us to get wood and water, was fur-
nifhed gratis, and the oxen, (beep, and grain were
charged at fo moderate a price, that it was evident
they only prefented the account becaufe we had been
urgent in demanding it.
Senor Fagas added to generous manners the great-
eft politenefs of behaviour; his houfe was ours, and
every one under his command was at our difpofal. 'j'^
The monks of the miffion of San Carlos, fituated
two leagues from Monterey, foon arrived at the pre-
lidio, and with the flime politenefs we had experi-
enced from the officers of the fort and fhips, invited
us to dine with them, promifing to make us ac-
quainted with the minutiae of their inftitution and
mifîians, the manner of life of the Indians, their artss,
their newly adopted manners, and in general, every
thing that could excite the curiofity of travellers.
We eagerly embraced thefe offers, and lliould not
have failed to have made an application to that efFe6f,
had they not anticipated our folicitations. We agreed
to go two days after. Senor Fagas was defirous to
accompany us, and undertook to procure us horfes.
After crofiing a fmall plain, covered with herds of
cattle, but only furnifhcd with a few trees, that fervc
as a fhelter to thole animals from the rain, or fultry
heats, we afcended fome hills, where we heard feve-
lal bells announcing our arrival, of which the monks
r . had
h]t
if i;
Mm
m
111
206 LA PÉROUSE's A'OYAGE I 1786.
had been apprifcd, by a horfeman previoufly fent for-
ward by the governor.
They received us like lords of the manor making
their firft entry on their ellates. The prefident of
the miflions, in his ceremonial habiliments, and with
holy water in his hand, received us at the door of the
church, which was illuminated as on the grandeft fcf-
tivals ; and conducting us to the (leps of the high
altar, began to chaunt a Te Deum for the fuccefs of
our voyage.
Before we entered the church, we had crofTed a
fquare, where the Indians of both fexes formed a line ;
but their countenances {heiX'ed no furprife at our ar-
rival, and even left it doubtful whether we fhould be-
come the fubjeél of their converfation during the re-
mainder of the day. The parifh church is very neat,
though covered with thatch. It is dedicated to St.
Charles, and decorated with tolerable good paintings,
copied from thofc of Italy. Among others, is a pic-
ture of hell, where the artift fcems to have borrowed
the imagination of Callot. But as it is indifpenfably
necefîàry to ftrike the fcnfes of thefe new converts in
a lively manner, I am convinced fuch a reprefentation
never was more ufeful in any country, and that it
would be impoffiblc for the Proteflant religion, which
profcribes images, and almoftall the ceremonies of the
Gallican church, to make any progrefs among this
nation. I doubt whether the pi6lure of Paradife op-
polite, produces on them fo good an effeél. The
quictifm it pourtrays, and the foothing fatisfaétion of
the ele6t, who furround the throne of the Moil High,
are ideas too fublime^for the minds of uncultivated
favages. But it was neccfiàry to place the rewards,
as well as punilhmcnts before them, vvh'lc it w'S an
indifpenfable duty, not to admit of any do iation nom
the kind of plealures held out to man b^ the Catho-
lic religion.
On coming out of the church, we pafîèd the fame
ranks
1786.] ROUND THE WORLD. 207
ranks of Indians, who had not quitted their poll du-
ring the Te Deum. The children alone had nrjovcd,
forming groups near the houfe of the miffionaries,
which, with their feveral magazines, are oppolite to
the church. On the right is the Indian village, con-
fiding of about 50 huts, inhabited by 740perfons of
both fexes, including children, who altogether com-
pofethe mifiion of San Carlos, or Monterey. . ^ ,ff
Thefe huts are the moft miferable that cxift among
air, nation. Theirformis circular, andfixfcetdiamctcr
by four high. Some (lakes about the lize of the arm
being fixed in thé ground, and brought together in an
arch at top, compofe their frame, and eight or ten
trufles of ftraw, badly arranged upon thefe flakes, de-
fend the inhabitants more or lefs from the rain, and
wind. More than half this hut remains open in fine
weather, and their only precaution is to keep two or
three fpare trufl^s of llraw near each of their houfcs.
This agreilic architcdlure, which is univerfal
throughout the two Californias, the exhortations of
the Miffionaries have never fucceeded in changing.
The Indians reply that they love the open nir, and
that it is convenient to fet fire to their houfcs, when
they are too much annoyed by fleas, and then rebuild
them in an hour or two. The independent Indians,
who fo frequently change their abode, have, like eve-
ry nation of hunters, additional motives to this pre-
ference.
The colour of thefe Indians, which is that of ne-
groes, the houfe of the monks, their magazines, which
are built of brick, and plaiftered, the threlhing-floor
on which they tread out the corn., the cattle, the
horfes, in fliort, every thing we obferved, prefented
the appearance of a plantation in St. Domingo, or any
other colony. The men and women are alfo ul-
fembled by the found of a bell, and a monk leads
them to work, to church, and to all their employ-
ments. We declare with pain^ that the refemblance
is
:M\>-
\n.
'^j- li
1
! ; If
«if
m
m
'208 LA pérouse's voyage [1786.
is Co exaél, that we faw both men and women loaded
with irons, while others had a log * of wood on their
legs; and even the noife of the la{h might have availed
our ears, as that mode of punifliment is equally ad-
mitted, though employed with but little feverity.
''^ The anfwers of the monks to our various queftions,
made us perfc6lly acquainted with the regulations of
this religious community, for fuch the adminiftration
eftablilhed here muft be called. They are the tem-
poral, as well as fpiritual fuperiors, and all the pro-
duce of the earth is confided to their management.
The day is divided into fevcn hours of work, and two
of prayer, but four or five on Sundays and feaft days ;
which are wholly devoted to reft, and religious wor-
fhip. Corporal punishments arc infliéled on the lu-
rlians of both fexes, who negleél their pious exercifes,
:nid many faults, which in Europe are wholly left to
divine juftice, are here punifhcd with irons, or th^
log. In ihort, to complete the parallel with the reli-
gious communities, from the moment a neophyte is
baptized, he feems to have taken an eternal vow. If
he runs away, and returns to his relations among the
independent villages, he is fummoned three times,
and fliould he ftill rcfufe to come back, they apply to
the authority of the governor, who fends a party of
foldiers to tear him from the bofom of his family -{•,
and deliver him to the millions ; where he is con-
demned to a cctajn number of lailics. Yet thefe peo-
ple are fo deftitute of courage, that they never oppofe
any refiftance to the three or four foldiers, who fo
glaringly violate the rights of nations in their per-
* The log is a folic! block of wood fawed throughout its length,
with a hole large enough tor a common fizedleg. One end is con-
neéled by a hinge ; the other, being opened to put in the leg of
the prifoner, it 19 then fliut, and taftened with a padlock ; thus
obliging him to lie down, or remain in a very uneafy pofture.
f As thefe people are at war with their neighbours, they can" ne-
ver go to a diftancc of above 20 or 30 league*^,
foilS.
,t' I
1786.] * ROtND THB WOkLb. lOQ
fons. Thus is thip cuftom, againft which reafbn ex-
claims fo loudly, continued, merely becaufe a num-
ber of theologians have ch'ofcn to decide, that bap-
tifm fhall not be ^dminiftered to men of fo much le-
vity, unlefs the gfjvernment become in fome meafure
their fponfors, an\^ cngagfc for their pcirfçverance in
Chriftianity.
The prcdeccfTor of Senor Fagas, Don Felipe de
Neve, commandant of the inland provinccis of Mexico,
who died four years fince, was a.tnah of great humani-
ty, and a kind of Chriflian philofopher. lliat worthy,
man protcllcd againfl this cuftom, thinking the jpro-
grcfs of the Chriflian faith would be more rapid, and
the prayers of the Indians more agreeable to the Su-
preme Being, if they were voluntary. He wifhed for
a Icfs moi\aftic conltitution, more civil liberty for the
Indians, and lefs defpotifm in the executive power of
the prcfidios, the adminiftration of which, ttiight
fomel imes be placed in barbarous or avaricious hahdé.
He thought it might even be neccfîàry to moderate
their authority, by creeling a magiftracy, which ïhould
be as it were the tribunal of the Indians, and might
have fufficient authority to protedl them from op-
preffion. Though this juft man had borne arms in
the defence of his country from his infancy, yet he was
free from the prejudices of his profeflion, knowing
that a military government is fubje(?l: to great incon-
veniences, when it is not tempered by an intermedi-
ate authority. He ought, however, to have perceived
the difficulty of maintaining this balance of three
powers, at fo great a diftance from the Governor
<Teneral of Mexico, iince the Miffionaries, though fo
pious, and fo refpedlable, are already at open war with
the governor, who apjjeared to me to be a meritori-
ous officer. ": " il '."' ■■':■:
We were defi/Ous of being prefent at the diflribu-
tions made after «ach meal ; and, as every day is alike
Vol. L P with
iV .. t
I
'ilO LA pkrouse's voyagp: [l78()
with thcfc monaftic kind of men, by delir'^ating the
hiftory of a day, the reader will know that of the year.
The Indians, like the miifionaries, rife with the fui),
and then go to prayers, and to mafs, which hiil an
hour. During this time, three great cauldrons of bar-
ley meal are boiled in the middle of the fquare, the
grain having been roaftcd before it is ground ; this
. mefs, which the Indians call atoky and which they
are very fond of» is neither feafoned with butter nor
fait, and would le to us very infipid food.
Each family fends for the allowance of all the inha-
bitants of their cottage, which they receive in a vef-
|fcl of bark. There is no confufion or diforder in the
^ diilribution, and when the cauldrons are empty, what
cakes to the bottom is given to the children who fay
, their catechifm beft.
• This repaft continues three quarters of an hour, af-
.ter which they all go to work ; feme to plough with
t oxen, others to dig the garde n, each according to the
; different labours requifite in the colony, and always
under the fuperintendance of one or two monks.
The women have little other employment than the
condudl of houfehold affairs, that of their children,
and the roafting and grinding their grain. This ope-
ration is very long and tedious, becaufe they have
no other method than crulhing it on a ftone wilh a
cylinder. M. de Langle, obferving this operation,
prefented his mill to the miffionaries, than which, we
could fcarcely have rendered them a greater fervice ;
.for now four women can do the work of 100, and
even have time to fpin the wool from their flocks, and
manufacture fome coarfe fluffs. Hitherto the
j monks, more occupied with their celeftial than tem-
poral concerns, have neglected to introduce themo.ft
common arts. They are even fo auflere vvith regard
to themfelves, as rot to have one chamber with a
fire-place, though the winter is fometimes fevere;
nor
1786.] BOUND THE WORLD. 211
nor did the flridlefl: anchorites ever lead a more edify-
ing life •.
At noon tho bells ring for dinner, when the Indi-
ans quit their work, and fend for their nieflcs to the
lame cauldrons as at breakfuft time. This fécond
broth, however, is thicker than tiie flrfl, forbefides
the corn and maize, it contains peas and beans. The
Indians call it tonjjole. They return to work from
two o'clock, till four or five, after which they go to
evening prayers, which lad near an hour, and are fol-
lowed by another meal o( atoîe fimilar to their break-
faft. Thus thefc diflributions fufficc for the fubfift-
cnce of the majority of the Indians, and this very
economical foup, might perhaps be advantageoufly
adopted in Europe in years of fearcity, with the addi-
tion of fome kind of feafoning. But all the art of
cookery pra6tifed here, confifts in roafting the grain
before it is reduced into flour. As the Indians have
no earthen, or metal vefîèls for this operation, they
perform it in bafkets of bark over fmall lighted coals,
turning them with fo much adroitnefs and rapidity,
as to make the grain fwell and burl}, without burning
the balkcts, though compofed of very combuflible
materials. We may even venture to affirm^ that the
bed roafted coffee does not approach the equality
of roafting, produced by the Indians. It is diftri-
buted to them every morning for this purpofe, and
the fmalleft infidelity in their return, is puniflicd by
the lafh, to which, however, they very rarely expole
themfelves. Thefe puniftiments are ordered by In-
dian magift rates called Caciques, of whom each mif-
fion has three, elc6lcd by the people from all thofe
not difqualificd by the miflionaries. But to give a
juft idea of this magiftracy, we (hall obfcrve, that
• Father Firmin de la Suen, prefident of the mtfïïons of New
California, is one of the moft worthy, and refpeftabte men I ever
met with. His mildnefs, his charity, his love for the Indians, are
iiidefcribable.
P2 their
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^12 LA péroûse's voyagé [1786.
their Cacicjues, like ftewards of plantations, are mere
paflîve beings, and blind executors of the will of their
îuperiors : their principal functions being thofe of
beadles, and maintaining good order, and an air of fe-
' rioufnefs in the church. The women are never flog-
ged in the public fquare, but in a fccret place, and at
• a diftance, in order, perhaps, to prevent their cries
exciting too lively a compaflion, and thereby flimu-
'lating the men to revolt : whereas the men are ex-
/ ,'pofed before all their fellow citizens, that their pu-
' nifhment may ferve as an example. In general, they
. 'aik fbrgivenefs, upon which the executioner dimi-
nilhes the force of his ftrokes, but the number is al-
ways irrevocably fixed.
Their rewards confift in fmall individual diftribu-
fions of grain; of which they make fmall cakes,
, baked under the brazier; and on, feaft days their mefs
is of beef, which many eat raw, efpecially the fat»
which they efteem equally delicious With the fineft
' butter, or the moft excellent cheefe. They ikin
all animals with the greateft addreft, and when they
, are fat, they croak with pleafure like a crow, devour-
• ' ing at the fame time the parts they are moft fond of
• with their eyes.
They are often fufFered to hunt and fifh for their
own benefit, and at their return, prefent the miffion-
aries with fome fifh or game, proportioning the
quantity to their precife wants, but encreafing it if
they know their fupcriors to have any additional
guefts. The women keep a few fowls round their
huts, and give the eggs to their children. Thcfe
- fowls are the property of the Indians, as well as their
c^>othcs and other utenfils, both domefiic and for
the chace. There is no example of their robbing
One another, though they have no other door than a
trufs of draw laid acrofs the entrance when all the
family are abfent.
- Thefe manners will appear to fome readers, to be-
long;
L'-i
\786.J HOUND THE WORLD. 213
long to patriarchal ages, who may not coniider, that
in thefe huts they have no objeéls capable of tempt-
ing the cupidity of their neighbours. For their fub-
liflence being Ibcurc, they can have no other objedl of
defire, but to give birth to beings, deftined to be
equally ftupid vvith themfelves.
The men have facrificed more to Chriftianity than
the women ; for to them polygamy was allowed, and it
was even the cuftoin to marry all the fillers of a family.
The women, therefore, have gained by it the exclufive
enjoyment of their hufband. But I confefs, that,
notwithftanding the unanimous account given ty
the million aries, of this pretended polygamy, I never
could conceive it poffible among a nation of favages.
For the number of men and women being ' nearly
equal, many of them mull live in involuntary celi-
bacy, unlefs conjugal fidelity were lefs llriélly obr
ferved than in the millions, where the monks have
made themfelves the guardians of the Womens' virtue.
An hour after fupper, they Ihut up all thofe whofe
hulbands are abfcnt, as well as all girls above nine
years old, and place them under the care of matrons
duringtheday. Even thefe precautions are infufficient ;
for we faw men wearing the log, and women in irons, ,
for having cfcajped the vigilance of thefe feqijile ar-
gufes, whofe eyes are inadequate to watch thetp,
The converted Indians have prefervcd 'all the an-
cient culloms not forbid by their new religion j the
fame huts, the fame games? the fame drellès. The
richcft wear a cloak of ottdf-lkin, which covers theiç
loins, and reaches below their middle. The leall in-
dullrious only wear sc piece of cloth furnilhed by the
million to cover their nakednefs, and a little cloak
of rabbit- Ikin tied with a pack-thread under tbc chin,
which covers their Ihoulders, and reaches to thei^
loins, he reft of the body being naked as well as the
head; Ibme, however, wear a ftra>y Jial; extre^nely
\vell matted. '
P 3 The
/
/
214 LA PÉROUSB*S VOYAGB [l786.
The women's drefs confifts of a cloak of ftag's-
ifkin, badly tanned. Thofe of the miffions generally
convert them into a little jacket with fleeyes, which
with a fmall apron of rufhes, and a petticoat of ftag's-
lk;in that covers their loins, and reaches half down the
leg, forms their whole attire. Young girls under
nin^ years old have only a girdle, and the boys are
totally naked.
The hair of both men and women is out four or
five inches from the roots. The Indians of the Ran-
cherias * having no iron utenfils, peform tliis opera-
tion with fire-brands, and paint their bodies red,
changing it to black when in mourning. The mif-
iionaries have profcribed the former, but have been
. obliged to tolerate the black, thefe people being,
fo flrongly a]ttnched to their friends, as to fhed tears
^yheh reminded even of thofe who have long been
dead, and feeling offended, if their names are in-
advertently mentioned in their prefence. But here,
family conne(5tions have lefs force than thofe of friend-
fliip; and children fcarcely know their own father,
deferting his hut as foon as they are able to provide
for themfelves. They retain, however, a more du-
rable attachment to their mothers, who bring them
up with the greatefl tendernefs, and only beat them
when they (hew cowardice in their little battles with
children of their own age.
The old men of the Rancherias, who are no longer
able to hunt, live at the joint expence of the whole
village, and arc treated with general refpeét. Though .
the independent lavages are very frequently at war,
their fear of the Spaniards, prevents their committing
any outrages on the miffions, which is, perhaps, not
the leaft of thecaufesof the augmentation of the Chrif-
tian villages. Their arms are the bow and arrow,
pointed with a flint very Ikilfully worked. Thefe
Dows being made of wood, and ftrung with the nerve
* Villages of the Ipdepeadent Indians,
1786.] ROUND THE WORLD^ 21 S?^
of an ox, are very far fupcrior to thofe of th"e inhabit- '
tantwS of Port des Français.
' We were afTured, thefe Indians neither eat their
prifoners, nor their enemies killed in war, although,
\vhen they have conquered and put to death fome
chiefs and very brave men in the field of battle, they
cat fome morfels of their bodies ; not fo much to de-
monfirate their hatred and vengeance, as to do ho-
mage to their valour, and from a belief that fuch food
would increafe their courage. Like the Canadians,
they take ofFthe fcalp of the conquered, and tear out
their eyes ; which they have the art of preferving from
corruption, keeping them as the mod precious tro-
phies of victory. They are accuftomed to burn their
dead, and depofit their alhes in a moraï. -»
Two games employ all their leifure time. One is
called takerjia, and confifts in throwing, or rolling a
fmall circle three inches in diameter, on an area ten
toifes fquare, cleared from grafs, and inclofed with faf-
cines. Each party has a flick five feet long, 'of the
fize of an ordinary cane, on which they endeavour
to catch the ring while in motion. If they fucced
they gain two points, but if they only catch it at the
end of its motion, they count one ; and three points
are the game. This play becomes a violent cxercife,
as the circle or the Hick are in confl:ant aélion.
The other game, called toiilp, is lefs fatiguing, and
is played by four hands, two on a fide. Each party
in turn, hides a piece of wood in one hand, while his
partner endeavours by a thoufand geftiires, to engage
the attention of the adverfaries. It has a fingular ef-
feét to a fpeélator, to obferve them fquatting oppofite
each other in perfeiSl fiîence, watching each other's
countenance, and the minuted circumftance that
may alfift them in gueffing which hand conceals the
piece of wood. They gain or lofe a point according
to their guefs, and thofe who win have the next turn
to hide. Five points make the game, and the ftakc
' ufually
Îl6 L4 rÉ!lOU8E*8 VOYAQE [l786.
ufually CQtîfiils of fome beads; or, among the indc-
^ pendent Indians, the favours of their wives. Thcfe
lad haye no knowledge of a Qod or a futurç ^tate,
except fomq of thç foutherq nations, who bad a con-
fufed idea on the fubjeél before the; arrival of the mil- •
iionaries. They placed their paradife in the middle
. of the fea, where the good cnjoj'cd a çoolnefs never
to be felt amongft their burning fands ; while they
^'' imagined a hell fituated in the hollpws of the moun-
tains.
The miffionaries convinced, either by their preju-
dices or their experience, that the reafon of thefe men
is never matured, deem this a fufficient rpotive for
treating them as children, and only admit a very
fmall number to the communion. Thefc individuals
are the men of genius of their village, who, like New-
ton or Defcartes, might hâve enlightened their conn-
trymen and their age, by teach' ng them that two and
two make four ; a calculation above the [X)wers of a
confidcrable number. The regulation of the mif-
iions is not likely to emancipate them from the reign
of ignorance, where every thing is merely directed to
, obtaining the rewards of a future life, apd the moft
common arts, eVen that of a village furgeon of
France, wholly unexplored. Children frçqiientlv pe-
rifh in confequence of hernias, which the fmallcft
degree of Ikill might cure ; and our furgeons weie
happy in relieving a few, and teaching them the ufc
of bandages in that difotder.
It muft be acknowledged, that if the Jfefuits were
not more pious or more charitable than thé prefent/
miffionaries, they were at leaft more llcilful. The
immeïife edifice they erected in Paraguay, ihuft ex-
cite the greateft admiration, though mankind will
ever have to reproach them, whether frofn their am-
bition or their prejudices, with that fyftem of com-
munity fo inimical to theprogrefs of civilization, and
which is too fcrvilely imitated in all tlie iiiiilions of
' ../■•■■ Califoniia.
i'
/786.J ROUND THE WORLD. ' 217
California. This government is a trae theocracy
with regard to the Indians, who believe their Supe-
riors to hold an immediate and continual jntcrcpurfc
with God, bringing him dOwn each day upon the
altar. Under the protection of this opinion, the fa-
thers live in the midft of the villages In perfeél fecu-
rity, nor is their door (hut during the night, though
the hiftory of their miflion already furni{he$ an m-
ftance of a prieft being maflacred. This aflàffina>
tion, however, was the confequence of a commotion
caufed by an aét of imprudence, for murder is very'
uncommon even among the independent tribes,
though only punifhed by general contempt. But if
an individual falls urider the united attack of feveral
aflailants, he is fuppofed to have deferved his fate, as
he had drawn upon him fo many enemies.
North California, of which the moft northern fettle-'
mentis San Prancefco, in 37° 58^ N. lat. has no other
bounds, accofci|ng to the opinion of the Governor
of Monterey, than thofe of America itfelf ; and our
ihips, penetrating as far as Mount St. Elias, have not
found its Umits. In addition to the motives of piety,
that detçrmined Spain to facrifice confiderable fums in
the maintenjance of her prefidios and miffions, power-
ful realbns of ftate direct the attention o^ the go-^
vernment to this important part of America, where
bttcr fkins are as common as in the Aleutian illands,
and other parts ffequented by the Ruflians.
.We found at Monterey,' a Spanifh commiflàrj%
named Don Vicente Vafladrc y Vega, who had
brought the Governor orders to Cplleét all the otter
Ikiiis of his four prefidios and of the ten miffions,
of which the Goverrior referves the excliifive trade.
Senojr Fagas affured me he could furnifh 20,000
every yba^ ; and as he knew the country, he faid,
that if Chin^ could take oft' 30,000 flcins, two or three
additional fcttlements to the northward of San Fran-
Icefco would foon procure them for the national trade.
(... ... . . i Ij.
1
21 a LA p£rousb*8 voyage [i7b6.
It Is truly aftoniOiing that the Spaniards, having
fnch frequent and cafy communication witli China
through Manilla, ihould ftill be ignorant of the va-
lue, of thefe important furs.
They owe to Captain Cook and to the publication
of his work this important information, which will
confer on them' the greateft advantages. Thus has
this great man travelled for the beneèt of the whole
world, while his nation enjoys nothing exclulivcly,
but the glory of giving birth to the enterprize, and
of obfervmg its progrels.
The otter is an amphibious animal, as common on
the weftern coaft of America, from the 28th to the
6oth degree, as fea- wolves on the coaft of Labrador
and Hudfon's-Bay. The Indians, not being fo good
feamen as the Efquimaux, and their canoes at Mon-
terey being only made of reeds*, take them on fhore
with fnares, or knock them down with flicks when
at a diftance from the land» For this purpofe they
conceal themfelves behind the rocks, for at the moll
trifling noifc thefe animals take alarm, and plunge into
the fea. TiH the prefent year an otter-lkin bore no,
higher value than two hare-fkins, and the Spaniards
had no idea they could ever be much in requeft. They
had never fent any to Europe, and Mexico was too
hot a country to fuppofe they could be difpofed of
there. iî^» i
I am of opinion a great revolution will take place
in a few years, in the commerce of the Rufîians to
Kiatcha, in confequence of the difl^culty of fup-
porting this competition. The comparifon I have
made of the otter-fkins of Monterey with thofe of
Porf des Français induces me to think the fkins of
the South are rather inferior. But the difference is
fo inconfiderable, that I am not abfolutely certain
* Thofe in the channel of Santa Barbara and of San Diego
have canoes built of wood, nearly fimilar to thofe of Mowee, but
yrithout out-riggers, iijj ^^ , . aiÊj;vv'i.j «^vV VMi»<«' -^..v
' - of"
■.'A
17 86 J HOUND THE WORLD. 21 ^
of the fat^, and I doubt much whether this inferio-
rity can occafion a difference of \0 per cent, on the
fale. It is almoft certain that the new Company of
the Manillas will endeavour to become mailers of
this branch of commerce, and this will be a moil for-
tunate event for the Ruflians, as it is the nature of
cxclufive privileges to deftroy, or at lead to para>
life every fpecics of commerce and indullry ; while it
is the charaéleriftic of a free trade to communicate to
both all the activity of which they are fufceptible.
California, notwithflanding its fertility, cannot be
faid to have a fingle inhabitant. A few foldiers,
married to Indian women, wbo live within the forts,
or are fpread as it were in patroles among the various
mifliqns, conilitute as yet the whole of the Spanifh
nation in this part of America. Yet it is in no re-
fped: inferior to Virginia, to which it is oppofite,
were it but lefs didant from Europe ; its proximity to
Afia might, however, counterbalance that difadvan-
tage ; and I am of opinion, that a good iyilem of le-
gillatiou, and, above all, the liberty of commerce,
would procure it fome inhabitants fi'om the Spanifh
territories, which are fo extenfive, that it will proba-
ble be a very long time before the population of any
of their colonies will increafe. The great number
of celibatifls of both fexes who have devoted them-
felves to that condition from an idea of moral per-
feélion, and t.<f confiant policy of the government in
tolerating only one religion, and employing the
mofl violent meafures in its fupport, will continually
oppofe an additional obflacle to every advancement, r/
The adminiflration of the villages converted to
Chriftianity would be more favourable to population,
if property and a certain degree of liberty formed its
balls. However, fince the eflablifhment of the ten
difterept miifions of North California, the holy fa-
thers have baptized 7701 Indians of both fexes, and
have buried only 238&t But wc may remark, that this
iiJilj ilatement
f
■•'laT s
m
#
•
220 LA rAROU9E*8 rOYAGE t)7<*^,
ftatcment docs not inform us, like that of our towns
in Kuropc, whether the population encreafes or dimi-
nifhes, bccaufc they baptize fonic of the inclcpnulcnt
Indians every day. It only proves that Chriflianity
ei»crcafes ; and I have already laid that the affairs of
the future Hate could not be confided to better
hands.
Ahnoll all the Francifcan inilîîonaries arc Euro-
peans. They have a college at Mexico*, whofe
guardian is, in America, the general of his order.
This houfe is not dependent on the province of
the Francifcans at Mexico, but has its fupcriors in
Europe.
The Viceroy is fole judge of the difputes and dif-
ferences of the various miflions, not under the
authority of the Commandant of Monterey, wlio
h only obliged to aflift them with the niilithry
power whenever they demand it. But as he has
power over all the Indians, and particularly "over thofe
of the Ranchcrias, and is alfo commanflant of the
d£tachment of cavalry ftationed in the miflions, thcfc
various relations very frequently difturb the har-
mony between the military and religious govern-
ment, which laft, however, has fuch a powerful in-
tereft in Spain, as to preferve to them the afccn-
dancy. Thefe affairs were formerly carried before
the governors of the interior provinces ; but the new
Viceroy, Don Bernardp Gqlvcis, has re-united all
the powers in his own perfon.
Each miflionary receives from Spain 400 piadres a
year ; their number being fixed at two for each parilh ;
and if there i§ a fupernumerary, he receives no falary.
Yet money is of very little ufe in a country where
they find nothing to buy. Beads are the only mo-
ney of the Indians, confcquently the College of
Mexico do not fend a piaftce in fpeoie, but invell
ritiJ Jii * sThc name given to their Moriaflry. * l)i>i i.'iCJ ,:• i
Ï i'A'jiif'jifii . . • , their
1780.] ROUND THE WORLD.
their value in cfFeél», fuch as candies for ihe churcli,
chocolate, fugar, oil, wine, end ibme cloth, which
the iniflïonaries cut into finall girdles, to furniOi a
covering for the converted Indians, though deemed by
their independent countrymen unnccedhry. The Go-
vernor's (alary is 4000 piaftrcs ; that of his deputy,
450 ; that of the infpcéling captain of the 283 ca-
valry-men diftributetl over the two Califbrnias, 2000.
Each foldier of cavalry has 217, out of which he
muft fubfift himfclf, and furnifh his horle, cloathing;
arms, and every thing. The government keep ftud» *
of horfes and herds of cattle, and fell the former to the
foldiers, as well as the meat they confume. The
price of a good horfe is eight piaftrcs, and that of
an ox five. The Governor has the difpofal of the
horfes and of cattle, and making the dcduélion to
each, at the end of the year, from the remainder of
his pay, liquidates the balance with great exadtnefs.
As the ibldiers '^ had rendered us an infinity of
little fcrviccs, I alkcd leave to prefent them a piece
of blue cloth, and fcnt the miffion fome coverlets,
fome fticks, beads, uteniiis of iron, and, in general,
all the little articles they might want, and which
we had not djftributed to the Indians of Pori des
Français, The Prefident declared to the whole
village, that it was a prefent from their ancient and
faithful allies, who profefled the fame religion as the
Spaniards: which {o excited their benevolence, that
every one of them brought us a trufs of hay or ftravv
the next morning, for the oxen and fliecp we were ta
take on board. Our gjirdcncr alfo gave the miffio-
naries fome potatoes of Chili perfeélly well preferved,
Virhich I by no means conlidcr one of our meanci'l
prefents, as I am of opinion this root will fuccccd
peifedlly in the light and highly vegetative foil of
the environs of Monterey.
• •. • ■
Sill lO fii
• • There are but eighteen iu the whole prcCdio. :
From
§
' I
;îf?S 1
^1 ■
222
LA ?é]lOC8B*8 VOYAO»
L1785.
From the deyof c^rtrrivol we hnd been emolov
ed in get
allow
the
ich laft we were
ur boats. In
a moment
but the
ifummcr
(bed
, our
t and
fou-
of
]| or
crifte
c Go-
nity of
ur ufe,
ce of vc-
our bo-
isful. On the pioun-
I, in the hollows, and by the fea-fide,^ they
bnlylbund a light argillaceous ilone, eafiiy detom*
pofed, and formed oC^ kinfl of marl. They alfo met
with block»,
buried
and
'^ns of which were
s of porphyry,
lycr of the mc-
equidMy few, cx-
le é^léi de nier, fm^^^ with
^r«|U)lh|r ol ]p6ar^i abd Wit inches
" 16^ reft are iDiHMb the
♦■ ■TO^,(B^JiM-IWt-lbuthern
fiiîiaeil ncfiei^lli this braneh
ilmiîOl 0]^rs, who;(ê peurls
z^ ià'^f^g^ teyioïî or the
wouM fÉ{i^l^É|^ aHS^ of
olif es, buccbM, and vmdl iUeUs of the
great
I \
Ifo met
h were
rphyry,
hemc-
w, ex-
d with
inches
^b the
Uthern
minch
pearls
or the
cle of
of the
great
i<i
ii
m
■11
'T'f ^r-'w^^
tihj
1786. «OUNI> THE WOHLD. 223
great value and certain fale in China. But it is im-
poffible for the Spaniards to cultivate every fpeciesof
induftry their vaft dominions would encourae^;
l|1||i,^2d at night evfry thing vr^i^mWimi^
^jîm^jÉf^our leave of t|e Governor ^é^MÉlâifîi^
^^iSS^l^/:v-1JI^ carried awa^ >vith us ai'^i^ifil^^Skyte
ot pr|^a$9pft' as from La^ Conception :. 1 m^ tÉlpJile
âoçI;"^:|è#ry of Senor I^'agas and tht^owWilt* ^'a*
tiit^i^^^pilfii to our coops, /fiilfl the latter ^<d<IM 4ome
corn, Jbeans, and pqgs, retailÉ)^ onljpywhat Wal^abfo-
lutely neceflary for ,^hemfelV««i For^ll thefe articles
they refufed to accept any j^a^ment, i||nd only yielded
to ott^ ïÇprefentatipn, that they weije ftewards, not
pft^pri^^ of the produce of the millions.
^Mé^i?;^ the wind was contrary, lMife1ifi|^
||i^&.^i%p 24th we t^ i^il with a In^cx^lfepii
|i^ lll^l^^ Don Eftei^tt; Martinee bipÉ^^iHe
èo^l^iai^;# day4>reak^ Éùâ His long-boat ^kj^i;H(^É[^
were conllantly at our diffxjfal, and gave u>:èvëry
affiftance. Indeed, I can but feebly exprefs thé Sen-
timents of gratitude we owe him lor his attentions^
as well as to Don Vicente Vaflhdre y Vega, a young
man full of genius and merit, who was on the eve of
his 4^pai?t|are for China, to conclude , a tr^a^. of
cpmnfii^çe Illative to the fale of otter-Ik^$* ;
111
r„ r
;; ; hi: !
•i;r' !
Œ
7.\.
.\f;V"'
IÎ
\n^
\: ■•*•'■>
ï-^^-v
V-» ' I J..
^K|^'.onl^i:,"
CHAP.
224
LA PÉROUSE*» VOtAÔ*
iHsô.
CHAP.XIÏ. .^M'
ASTRONOMICAL OBRERVATIONS<^i^COÎ\)lPAni8ÔNOP THÈ
RESULTS OBTAINED BY THE DISTANCES OP THE
MOON PROJH THE SUN, AND BY OUR TIME- KEEP-
ERS, WHICH SERVED AS THE GROUND^WORK Op
OUR CHART OP THE AMERICAN COAST-TREASONS
POR THINKING OUR LABOURS DESERiE THÉ CONFI-
DENCE OP NAVIGATORS^— VOCABULARY 0^ THE
LANGUAGE OP THE DIFFERENT TRIBES IN THE
i VICINITY OP MONTEREY, WITH REMARKS ON THEIR
« PRONUNCIATION.
'HILEour crews were employed in contpjeting
.ing our wood and water, M. Dagelefe j^ofc
his quadrant afhorc, in order to determine witlK the
gréateft precifion the latitude of Monterey. }^6
J'egretted much, thatcircumftances did not admit of
my ftaying long enough to rcfunie the comparifon
of ou"r time-keepers. The robbery of the i^^ajDers con-
tainin-g our obfcrvations, by the favîiges at Port des
Français left him in fome uncertainty concerning the
daily lofs on mean time o{ the time-keeper No.
19,*by wWch we had determined all thc' points of
the coaft of America. That aftronomer even thought
he ought to confidcr the comparifons made in the
Ifle du Cénotaphe as null, preferring thofc of the bay
of Talcaguana in Chili, though perhaps too long
pad, Hill to dcferve full confidence. But it ought
not to be forgot^ that each day we compared the rç-
fult of the longitude given by the time-keeper, with
that deduced fk)m lunar obfcrvations taken on board
each frigate, and that the conftant and perfect agree-
ment of thefe refults, cannot leave any doubt, con-
cerning the accuracy of thofe to which we have ad-
hered.
As thofe #bo apply themfelves to the fludy of
■ feienccs,
'■#'
Ï786.] ROUND THE WORLD. 225
fcicnces» may be defirous to know the limits of the
errors, of which the determinations of longitude at
fea, deduced from obfcrvations of the diftance of the
moon from the fun, are fufceptible, it will not appear
mal-apropos to give an idea of it in this place.
l^heory, affifted by a long ferics of obfervations,
has not yet been jible to furnifti perfedlly accurate
tables of the moon's motion. Yet, confidcring the
degree of prccifion thefe tables have already attained,
this firfl fource of error only leaves an uncertainty
of 40 or 50 féconds of time at moil, and generally
not exceeding 30 féconds, making only a quarter of
a geographical degree of longitude ; becaufe the mo-
tion of the moon with refpeÀ to the fun is, by a mid-
dle term, half a minute of a degree for every minute
of time, and the minute of time anfwers to a quarter
of a degree of longitude. From whence it follows,
that the longitudes deduced from a comparilbn of the
difbinces obferved at fea, with the diftances calculated
for the fame points of time, and for a fixed meridian,
cannot be afFeéled by an error in the tables, if there
is one, above a quarter of a degree in moft cafes, often
lefs, and very rarely more.
The fécond fource of errors, ariling from the im-
perfection of the inftruments and want of accuracy
or fkill in the obferver, cannot be determined with
equal precifion to that refulting from the imperfe<5tion
of the tables.
As to quadrants and fextants, the limits of the
error depend, as far as regards the inftrument, ou
the accuracy of the divifions ; and with regard to the
obferver, ift, on the difficulty of verifying the point
0 ; 2d, on that of accurately obferving the contadt
of the two planets : and this lafl depends on the
goodnefs of the light, habit, and IkiU of the ob-
server.
The refleéling circles have no common caufe of
error with the feâants and quadrants, but the difficulty
Vol. I. Q of
ii t '
ma
fi Ï:
Q.'IÔ LA pÉROUSE'ô voyage [lîTSG^
of observing the contaéls ; whereas they pofîèfs fe-
veral advantages which render them more certain.
The principal of thefe are, that the error to be ap-
prehended rn their Vérification is a nullity ; becaule
the obfervations being made fuccefîively in oppofite
direélions, to the right and left, there is no occalion
for thefe verifications». As to the inaccuracy of the
divifions, it is reduced at pleafure, according to the
frequency with which the obfervations are repeated ;
and it depends on the patience alone of the obfervcr,
that the error arifi"ng from the divifions may, at laft,
be confidered as a mere nuUity.* After having thus
eftablifhed the limits of the errors, we are authorifed
to conclude, that the medium of our refults,. for the
determination of the longitude by lunar obfervations,
could not in any cafe be afFeéled by an error exceed-
ing a quarter of a degree. For having conflantly
Mfed the refleéling circle, and having never negleél-
ed, for each operation, to repeat the obfervatjon as
often as the circumftances of the weather would per-
mit, and the obfervers being alfo perfeéMy praélifed.
We had nothing further to fear, than, the uncertainty
or limited error that might ariic from the imperfec-
tion of the lunar tables.
Thus then we were enabled to employ wkh con-
fidence the refults of thefe operations, repeated almoft
daily, to eftablifti the regularity of the time-keeper,
by the comparifon of its refults with thofe of the for-
mer. We confide alfo, and doubtlefs not without
fufficient reafon, in the combination and confiant
agreement of the feveral refults of obfervations ob-
tairred in different circumftances, feparately, as 1 have
already flated, on board each (htp ; which ferving re-
ciprocally as proofs, have furniflied a jpint and in-
• The iextants we ufed were made by the Englifti optician
Ramfden; the reflcAing circles, invented by M. de Borda, wefc
executed by Lénûif, a French mathematical and agronomical in-
ilrument maker, <.i.
'•' conteftible
178.6.] ROUND THE WORLD. !127
conteftibîe argument of the undeviating regularity of
the time-keeper, No. 19, by the aid of which we de-
termined the longitudes of all the points of the coaft
of America, we reconnoitred. The precautions pf
every kind, which we multiplied and accumulated, af-
ford me an affurancc, that our determinations arrived
at a degree of precilion which ought to procure them
the confidence both of learned men and navigators.
The utility of time-keepers is fo generaWy ac-
knowledged, and fo clearly explained in the Voyage de
M. de FÏettr/eUf that we (hall only fpeak of the ad-
vantages they procured us, in order more fully to
fhow how much M. Berthoud has furpaflfed the for-
mer limits of his art, fince, after an interval of 18
months, No. 18 and No. IQ gave refults eoually fatis-
faâory as at our departure, and permitted us to de-
termine, feveral times in a day, our exa6l iituation as
to longitude, according to which M. Bemizet con-
ftrudled the chart of the coaft of America.*
This chart, no doubt, leaves much to be done ih
regard to minutiae ; but we can anfwer for the prin-
cipal points of the coaft, which are determined with
pcrfe6l precifion, as well as for its direiftion. It ap-
peared to us in general bold; we perceived no
breakers m the ofting, and though there might be
fomc fand banks near the coaft, wc had no reafon to
think there were.
M. de Lamanon, who is the author of the follow-
ing obfervations, is of opinion, that it is extremely
difficult to give accurate vocabularies of the lan-
guages of the various tribes inhabiting the vicinity of
* I ought to'obferve, that the labour of the aftronomical ob-
fervations of (he chart was common to both (hips ; and as M.
Monge had quitted us at Teneritfe, M. de Langle, who is hirofelf a
very good auronomer, was charged with the direâion of all this
?art of the work, in which he was aifilled by Meflrs. Vaujuas»
.aurifton, and Blondela ; of whom the iaft mentioned drew part of
the charts, according to the obfervations with which he was fiir-
niibed,
Q2 Monterey.
!;! i;: M
mi
22S LA péROUSB*8 VOYAGE [l786.
Monterey. All he could anfwcr for, is the great
pains and attention he beilowed to avoid being the
caufc of the adoption of errors. He could not, per-
haps, even himfelf place any confidence in his own
pbfcrvations, had he not, at the millions where he
ilaid four days, met with two Indians, who, being
perfectly acquainted with the Spaniih, afforded him
the greateft alHflance.
I fhall therefore obfcrve, from the remarks of M.
Lamanon, that there is, perhaps, no country where
the various languages of the inhabitants are fo ex-
tremely multiplied as in North California. The nu-
merous tribes that divide that country, although
iituated very near each other, live in an infulated
manner, and have each a feparate language. It is the
difficulty of learning them all, that confoles the Mif-
0onàries for not being acquainted with any of them.
Thus they Hand in need of an interpreter in their
fermons, and in their exhortations at the point of
death.
Monterey, and the Miffion of San Carlos, which
is dependent upon it, comprehend the country of the
Achaillians and the Ecclemachs. The languages of
thefe people, partly united in the fame miffion, would
foon form a third, if the converted Indians ceafed to
hold communication with thofe of the Rancherias.
The language (>f the Achaftlians is commenfurate
with the feeble devdopement of their intelle6t. As
they have few abftra6l ideas, they have very few words
to exprefs them : they did not even appear to diftin-
guifh, by different names, all the fpccies of animals ;
and Galled by the fame name of ouakeche both toads
and frogs : nor do they diftinguifh better the vege-
tables they make ufe of. Their epithets, when ap-
plied to moral fubjecl:s, are almoU all borrowed from
the fenfe of tailing, which they are fondeft of gra-
tif}'ing ; thus they ufe the word mi/pch to exprefs a
good
J786.J ROUND THE WORLD. fl2g
good man or favoury food^ and keches for a bad man
or corrupted meat.
They diftingui(h the plural from the lingular, and
conjugate fome tenfes of verbs; but they have no
declenfions, and their fubilantives are much more
numerous than their adjeé^ives. They never make
ufe of the labials p and b, or of the letter x; biit
they have the chr as at Port des Français , as chrjkon-
der^ a bird, and chruk, a hut ; though their pronuncia-
tion is generally (bfter. »
. The diphthong ou occurs in above half their words,
as chouroui^ to fing ; touroun, the (kin ; iouours, a finger-
nail ; apd the moft common initial confonants are t
and K ; but their terminations are very various. >•
They make ufe of their fingers in counting as fhf
as 10, few of them being able to do it by memory,
or without the affiftancc of fome external fign. If
they would exprefs the number nine, they begin to
count with their fingers, one, two, three, and flop
when they have pronounced the word with which
they fhould have begun. They fcarcely get as far
ever) as the number five without this aid.
' Their numerical terms are
One tnoukala.
Two . . ouiis.
Three capes
Four • . - outiù.
Five is.
Six etejahe.
Seven kakis.
Eight ouloujmajakhen.
Nine ......«..% pak.
Ten tonta.
The country of the Ecclemachs extends above 20
leagues to the eaflward of Monterey. Their lan-
guage is totally different from all thofe of their neigh-
bours, and has even more refemblance to the lan-
Q 3 , guages
Vi III
230 LA PÉROUSE^S VOYAGE [1786.
guages of Europe than to thofc of America. This
grammatical phenomenon, the moil curious in this
itefpeet ever obierved on the continent, will, perhaps,
be interefting to thoie of the learned, who feek, in
the analogy of languages, the hiftory and genealogy
of tranfplanted nations. It appears, that the lan-
guages of America have a charaélcriftic difference,
which to&lly ieparates them from thofe of the ancient
hemifphere. In comparing them with thofe of Bra-
zil, Cnili, ahd a part of California, as well as with
thb numerous vocabularies given by various travel-
lers, it appears, that the American languages in ge-
neral are deficient in labials, and particularly the
letter p, which the Ecclemachs however employ, pro-
nouncing it like the Europeans. The dialeél of this
tribe is, in other refpeéls, more copious than that of
the other nations of California, though it cannot be
compared with the languages of civilized nations.
Should it be inferred from hence, that the Eccle-
machs are foreigners in this part of. America, it muft
be at leafl admitted, that they have inhabited it for a
long time, (ince they differ neither in colour, in
countenance, nor in their general make and external
appearance, from the other riatiops of that country.
Their numerical terms are,
One fek.
Two ouhch.
Three ouUef.
Four amnahon.
Five feniaca*
Six pekouJana.
Seven houlakoolano.
Eight , koulefaht.
Nine kamakoualane.
Ten tomoila.
Friend nigefech.
Bow r . .jpagounaçh,
* 3eard
178Ô.] lOUND TH3 WOKLp.
Beard tfcotre.
To dance mefpa.
Teeth . » ^. aour,
Phoca opopabos.
No maaL
Yes ike.
Father aoi.
Mother atzia.
Star aimouJus,
ISTight toumanes.
931
CHAP. XIII.
DEPARTURE FROM MONTEREY-
-OUK PROJECTED
ROUTE FOR CROSSINQ THE WESTERN OCEAN TO
CHIN*. VAIN SEARCH FOR THE ISLAND OP NUBS,-
TRA SENORA DE LA ÔORTA DISCOVERY OF THE
ISLAND OF NECKER WE MEET WITH A S17NKHK
ROCK IN THE NIGHT, ON WHICH WB WERE NEAR-
LY CAST AWAY DESCRIPTION OF THIS ROCK-
DETERMINATION OF ITS LATITUDE AND LONGI-
TUDE VAIN SEARCH FOR THE ISLAND OP LA
' MIRA AND^ GARDEN ISLAND WB MAKE THE
ISLAND OF ASSUMPTION, ONE OF THE MARIANAS
OR LADBQNBS — DESCRIPTION AND TRUE PLACB OP
THIS ISLAND^ BOTH IN LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE
— ERROR IN THE ANCIENT CHART OP THE MARI-
ANAS— ^WE DETERMINE THE LATITUDE AND LOK-
-GITUDB OF THE BASHEE ISLANDS WE ANCHOR IN
THE HAB.BOUR Of MACAO..
THE part of the great ocean we had to crols,
in order to reach Macao, is almofl unknown,
and afibrded us an expeélation of nieeting with fbme
undifcovered iflands. The Spaniards, who alone
frequent it^ have no longer that ardour for difoov^
Q4 ries^
Î32 LA pârovsë's voyage [1786.
ric8, which their thirft of gold perhaps firft excited,
but which induced thein to encounter every danger.
To that ancient cnthuliarm have fuccccdcd the frigid
calculations of fecurity ; and their track, during thi:ir
run from Acapulco to Manilla, is confined within a
A)ace of twenty leagues, between the thirteenth ami
iourtccnth degree of latitude. On their return they
nearly run on the parallel of the fortieth degree, by
the aflillance of the weflerly winds, which are very
frequent in thefc parts. Certain, from long ex-
perience, of not meeting with either funken rocks
or (l)oals, they can navigate by night with as little
precaution as in the fcas of Europe ; and their runs
being more direc^t, become fhorter, and the intercfts
of the owners lefs expofcd to lofs by (hip wreck.
..VThe objeét, however, of our voyage being to make
<ti6wdifcoverie6, and to advance the progrefs of navi-.
ettion in feas as yet but little known, we avoided the
moft frequented tracks with as much care as the gal-
leons employ to keep, as it were, in the very wake
of the veflei that preceded them. We were, how-
ever, obliged to navigate within the latitude of the
•trade winds, as we could not expect, without their
«id, to arrive at China within fix months, fo as to
accompliOi the ulterior objeéls of our voyage.
On leaving Monterey, I intended to direct my
courfe to the S. W. as t*ar as thebtitude of 28",
in which parallel fomc geographers have placed
the iAand of Nueftra Senora de la Gorta. All
roy refearches to know what ancient navigator firft
difcovered this iiland, were unfucoeikfu]. I re-
peatedly turned over my own notes, and all the
printed voyages on board of both our fhips, but I
found neither a hiftory nor a legend of this pretend-
ed ifland, to which I imaginç geographers have con-
tinued to give a place in thç. great ocpan* iperel)' in
conformity tpthe chart taken by Adpiiral X^rd An-
fon on bojird the jgalleon from Mànilt^\^^; j,^,^,^^ ,
^ ■'''*^ • See note on pages 85 and 86.
At
178Ô.] ROUND THE WOKLD. 233
At Monterey I had procured a iiiunurcript SpanKh
c tnrt ot' this ocean, which however dkti'eri but very
4 ttle from that engraved under the diredVion of the
cdiiorot Atifon's voyage. And it may be uiierted, that
iltii T the capture of the galleon fi-oin Manilla by that
mhnirai, and even tor the UiA two centunc»,. no ad-
vances have been made in the knowledge of thii iea,
except in conf^cjuence of the fortunate difcoveru of
the Sandwich iflnad» ; the Kcfolutiun and thc^Dif*
covcry being the only (hips, except the Jioufloleand
the AArolabc, which, for '200 years, Jiavc qiiitled
the track pursued by the galleons *. , A.umt>:
We were detained two days, in fight of iMonten^;
by contrary winds and calms, but. they ibon. fettled
at N. W. andlcndhied me to get into the latttudo
of '28^, on ffwhich ^raiiel I pro|}ofed to run dowa
500 leagues, as far as the longitude affigued to the
ifland of Nuefira Senoiii dc la Gorta; iels indeed
with a hope k)f meeting with that ifland^ ihan to cx>
punge it from our charts, iJbecaufe it would be dofir-
abic ibr the intoreils of navigation, that ijQands, whoie
latitude and longitude (ure eiToneouily laid down,
fhou Id remain in oblivion or. totally. unknown, till
accurate obfervations^ at leafl, of latitiutc have given
the line of their true place, Ihould no obfen'ations
of longitude havic admitted of detcrpiining the pre-
cife point they tx.'cupy on the furface of the globe.
I. intcirded afterwards tpjncline towaixls the S. W.
and to' trrofe^thd track of Capt. Clcivke, in the 20tli
degree of latitudcj.and the 179th degree» of E. Ion*
gitude, frciBntiie meridian of Paria ; whidi is neailijr
the fpot where thia Englifb captain was obliged to
quit that tfiiiêki in ofcder to reach Kitmtfchatka f. "'*
^^^m'>^: «^':l:-r;'»^m' - ::. ' ■. • ,,,,,■■ '-^
• Aflil»ir3« /^nfoiii anil, venous buccançei's, having no object.
hut tp,niàki^ <;jspfm'(;i. hay^..alwavs.foilôW^^(^ tlfe comAioa track.
f Captain t)!ei-keç|fferipii)ec(, aiurleavirz tUeSandwichlflands,
40 run along thé parallel of 20 deg. âs far 9S the fneridian of
M Unn -jiifnv , iori-)!^. * Kamtfcfiatka j
' ( i
;i'
I'l
■WM
^34 LA pé0USE*S VOJTAGE [j 786.
Mjrun WM at firft very fortunate. The wind
changed from N. W. to N. £. and I doubted not
we had got into the regioi^ of the periodical winds $
but from the 18th of 0<Siober they (hifled to the
weûward, and continued as obflinâtely in that quar-
ter as in the high latitudes, only varying from N. W.
to S. W. I ilruggled againil thefe obflacles eight or
ten days, taking advantage of every variation in the
wind to get to the westward, and thus at lad get
into the longitude I propofed.
We had, during that time, almoil continual rains
and ftorms, which caufed an extreme humidity in the
between-decks, and drenched all the failors clothes :
I much feared the fcurvy would be the confequence
of this bad weather ; but we had only a few degrees
to run to arrive at the meridian I wiOied for ; I reach-
ed it on the 27th of Oâober. We had then no
iigns of land, but two birds of the coulon-chaud kind *,
which were caught on board the AUroIabe, and thefe
were io lean, that it feen^d extremely probable they
had loft their way for a long time out at fea, and
might come from the Sandwich Iflands, from which we
were but 120 leagues. Theifland of Nueftia Senora
de la Gorta being laid down on my SpaniOi map 45
miles more to the foutbward, and five degrees more
to the eaflward, than upon Admiral Anfon*s chart, I
ihaped nny courfe to pafs this fécond point, though
with no better fuccefs. The wefterly winds ftill
continuing to blow in thefe leas, I endeavoured to
approach the tropic, in order at length to meet with
tne trade winds, which wpuld carry us into Alia, and
Kamtichatka; becaiife that track being uofrequented, he hoped
' to make difcoveries there. He did not alter nis courfe till the
50th Marrh, 1779, when he was in 180 deg. 40 min. E. long, or
<79> deg. 20 min. weft of the meridian of Greenwich; which gives
178 deg 20 min. E. bng. from that of Paris. — French Editor.
^ Thefe are a marine bird, better known by the name of
fea-iarks.
whofe
a..:.-
1786.J ROUND THE WOULD. !i35
whofe temperature feemed more calculated to main*
tain the (hips companies in good health. It is true
we had not as yet one fick man on board, but our
voyage, though already very long, was fcarcely com-
menced, if compared with the immenfe fpace we
had ftill to pafs over. If the vaft plan of our navi-,
gation difheartened no man, yet our fails and rig^
ging reminded us every day, that we had been 1Ô
months conllantly at fea ; for at every inilant fome of
our running ropes were breaking, and our fail-makers
were fcarcely fufficient to repair our fails, which were
almoft entirely worn out. We had, it is true, otha*
fuits on board, but the length of our intended voyage
demanded the ftri(5teft economy, and almoft half our
cordage was already unferviceable, though we were
ftill very far from having accompliihed half our pro-
jeâied navigation. ■ .'*■
On the 3d November, in 24** 4' N. lat. and 105®
0/ W. long, we were furrounded by birds of the
noddy, man-of-war bird, and tern kinds, which gene^*^-
rally go but a little way from the land. We there-
fore flood on with more caution, fhortening fail at
night ; and in the evening of the 4th November, got
ftghtof an ifland bearing weft, diftant four or five
leagues, which, though it appeared inconfiderable,
we flattered ourfclves was not alone. -^
I made the fignal to keep clofe to the wind, and to
ftand off and on all night, waiting with the greateft
impatience for day-light to purfue our difcovery.
At five in the morning of the 5th November, we
were but three leagues from the ifland, and I bore
away right before the wind to reconnoitre it. I hailed
the Aftrolabe to make fail a-head and prepare to
anchor, in cafe the coafl fliould afford an anchorage
and a creek where we might land.
This ifland, which is very fmall, is almoft a mere
rock, about 500 toifes long, and at moft 6o high ;
and though totally deftitute of trees, it is furnifti-
■I'.j . , ed
.i,;!ii'V
i;ii
236 LA PBOUSE*S' VOYAGB [l78^.
ed with a great deal of herbage towards its fum-
mit. The naked rock is covered with the dung of
birds, and appearing white, forms a contrail with
the various red fpots where grafs has not grown. I
approached it within a mile, and its fhores were as
perpendicular as a wall, the fea breaking violently
againft it in every part, fo that it was impoflible to
« attempt a landing. As we went almoft round this
illand, we laid it down with great precifion. Its la-
j titude and longitude, as determined by M. Dage-
let, are 23° 34' N. and 166^ 5'y W. from Paris. 1
• named it IJle Necker. If the fterility of this ifland
1 renders it of little importance, its precife place is ex-
^tremely interefting to navigators, to whom it might
^ otherwife be fatal. I pafled very near its Ibuthern-
moft ihore without founding, to ^void flopping the
(hip's way. Breakers appeared on every part of the
fhore, except the S. E. point, where was a fmall
ridge of rocks that might extend two cables* length.
Wifhing to knovir, before we continued our route,
whether we could ftrike ground, I founded, as did
the Aftrolabe, who was near a league to leeward,
when on board each (hip we only found 25 fathoms,
over a bottom of broken fhells. M. de Langle and my-
felf were far from fuppofing there was fo fmall a depth
of water, and I thought it evident that Necker liland
rs nowbutthe fummit or nucleus of a much more con-
fiderable ifland, which the fea has, by degrees, waflied
away, becaufe in all probability conflfling of a tender
fubftance, or eafily broke away; though the rock which
now remains is very hard, and will equally defy, for
fuccceding ages, the filent mouldering of time and
the boifterous efforts of the fea. As it was impor-
tant we fliould afcertain the extent of this bank, we
continued founding on board each ftiip, and fleering
to the weftward. The depth encreafed gradpally as
we got further from the land ; and, at about ten
miles diftance, a line of 150 fathoms did not reach
h- , , , the
1786.] ROUND THE WORLD. 237
the ground. Throughout this fpace of ten miles
we only found a bottom of coral and broken (hells:
The whole of that day we had men continually
looking out at the mad-head. The weather was
fqually and rainy, though from time to time we had
very clear intervals, during which we could fee ten
or twelve leagues. At fun-fet it was as fine- as pof-
lible in every quarter, and we faw nothing all
around except birds, whofe number had not dimi-
nifhed, flights of feveral hundreds croffing each
other's track, and thus baffling our obfervations, re-
garding the point of the horizon to which they di-
reéled their courfc.
We had fo fine a view at dnlk, and the moon,
which was almoft at the full, afforded fo flrong a
light, that I thought we might fafely ftand on. In
fa6t I had perceived in the evening Necker Ifland at
four or five leagues diftance. However, I ordered
all the iludding fails to be taken in, and to reduce
the way of both (hips to three or four knots an hour.
The wind was eafterly and we were fteering to the
weftward ; nor had we had a finer night, or a
fmoother fea, fince our departure from Monterey :
but this very fmoothnefs of the weather was nearly
fatal to us. About half pad one in the morning we
perceived breakers at two cables' length a-hcad of onr
fhip, but the fea being fo fmooth they fcarcely made
the leafl noife, and only broke at long intervals, and
veryflightly. The Allrolabe perceived them at thefame
time, being a little farther dillantfrom them. We put
Our helm harda-flarboard both at the fame moment, and
dood to the S. S. E. and as w.e made head-way during
this manœuvre, I think we cannot reckon our diftance
from thefe breakers above a cable's length. I then
founded, finding nine fathoms water over a rocky
bottom, and foon after 10 fathoms, and then 12 fa-
thoms ; and a quarter of an hour afterwards we did not
ftrike ground with a line of 6o fathoms. Thus did we
efcape the moil imminent danger that navigators
yn'h^i^y.'j ':■' ' ' . could
338 LA PKOUSE^S VOYAGE [178^.
could encounter. It is a duty I owe to my crew to
(declare, that I never faw lefs diforder or confulion in
fimilar circumftances. The fmalfefl: negleél: in the
|)errormance of the manœuvres to be made, in order
to get clear of the breakers, would have been ine-
vitably fatal. We perceived the contmuation of
thefe breakers near an hour, when they ran out to
the wcftward, and at three o'clock we loft fight of
them. However, I continued ilandtng to the S. E.
till break of day^ which was very fine and very clear :
and we then faw no breakers, though we had only
run five leagues fince we had changed our courfe. I
am perfuaded, that had we not more particularly re-
connoitred this rock, we (hould have left many doubts
concerning its cxiftence ; but it was not fufficient to
> tc certain of this, or to have efcaped the danger ; I
I was deiirous no future navigator fhould be expoied
to it. I therefore made the fignal, at day-break, to
put about, in order again to find it. We perceived
it at eight in the momint bearing N. N. W. when
i crowded fail to near it, and loon perceived an iflet
or fplit rock, of 50 toifes diameter at moft, and 20
or 25 high. It was fituated at the N. W. extremi-
ty of this (hoal, whofe S. E. point, on which we
were fo near being loft, extended above four leagues
in that direélion. Between the iflet and the break-
ers towards the S. E. we faw three fand-banks, not
more than four feet above the furface of the fea.
They were feparated from each other by a kind of
greeniih water, which appeared to be not above a
^thom deep. Some rocks even with the water's
edge, on which the fea broke violently, furrounded
. this fhoal, as a ring of diamonds furrounds a me-
dallion, and thus defended it from the fury of the
; fea. We failed along it, at lefs than a league dif-
■^ tance, to the eaftward, to the fouthward, and to the
wcftward. The north fide alone remained unexplor-
ed, as we had only a bird's eye view of it from the
maft-head. Thus, it is polRble, it may be much more
^..-. » , extenfive
T .
1786.] BOUND THE WOBLD. 23^
cxtenlive than we imagined ; but its length from Su
E. to N. W. or from the extremity of the bredkers^
that had been nearly fatal to us, to the iflet, is ioar
leagues. The geographical poiition of this iflet, which
is the only apparent c^jeâ, was determined by M.
Dageletto be 23** 45' N. lat. and 188° !(/ W. long.
It lies W. by N. from Necker Ifland, diftant 23
leagues. It mufi not be forgotten that the eaftem-
moil point is four leagues nearer. I named this fhoal
Baffe ties Frênaies Françai/es, becaufe it was very
near being the termination of our voyage. ia%
Having thus determined, with all the prccifion in
our power, the geographical po(ition of this (hoal,
I dire<5led my courfe to the W. S. W. I obfen^-
ed that all the clouds feemed to coUeél in that quar-
ter, and I^ flattered myfelfto find at lafi a land of
fome importance. A great fwell which came from
the W. N. W. led me to conclude there was no
ifland to the northward, and I could fcarcely pcrfuade
myfelf that Necker Ifland, and the Skoal of the French
frigates did not belong to an archipelago, which
might cither he inhabited, or at leafl inhabitable.
My conjecturés, however, were not realized. Thç
birds foon difappearcd, and we lofî; every hope of
meeting with any further objeâ.
I did not alter the plan I had formed, of croiiitig
the track of Captain Gierke in the 179th degree of É.
long*, and I reached that point on the l6th Novem-
ber. But, although above two degrees to the fbutb*
ward of the tropic, we did not meet with thofe trade
winds, which in the Atlantic Ocean only fufîèr very
flight and momentary variations. Fora fpace of 800
leagues, as far as the Marianas, we followed the paral-
lel of 20^ with witicls almofl as variable, as thofe met
with in June and July, upon the coafts of France.
The N. W. winds, which made the fea rife, veered
to the northward, and then to the N. E. \ the wea-
ther becoming clear and very fine. They foon
' ^ ihifted
'iiiii
^P
li
\\
!'
3 «I
./
240 LA P^ROUSS'S VOYAGE [l7S6.
Ihiftéd to the E. and S. E. The- Iky was then watery
and dull, and it rained very hard. Some hours after,
when the fame wind had fhifted to the S. E., then to
the W, and laftly, to the N. W. the horizon cleared
up. This change continued two or three days, but
it did not once happen that the wind came about
from the S. E. to E. and to N. E.
- I have entered into thefe particulars of the regu-
larly variable winds at this feafon, and in this lati-
v/ tudc, becaufe they appear to contradiél the theory
' of thofe, who explain the conftancy, and the regu-
, "■ larity of the winds between the tropics, by the rota-
tory motion of the earth. It is very extraordinary,
that on the mod immenfe fea of the globe, and in a
fpace^ where the reaétion of the land can have no in-
fluence, we (hould find variable winds for near two
months, and that they (hould be continually eaf-
terly only in the neighbourhood of the Marianas ■*♦.
^bi;i. Though
* If the caiife of the trade winds is uncertain, the knowledge of
' their exiftcnce, and the period when they blow is not the lefs im-
portant and tifeful to navigators. But a certain rule cannot be
laid down, till the South Sea has been repeatedly traverfed iti alt
icafo.ns. The voyages, however, that have hitherto been made,
prove -that the eafterly winds reign on the feas defcribed by La Pé-
' roufe. A reference to the tables of the route in Cook's third voyage,
will prove their conftançy, during the months of March, April, &o.
IfQerke changed his courfe fooner, he did not intend to do fo, and
it was not in confequence of the change of the winds, for as foon
' as they blew from the fouthward, he took advantage of them to run
to the oorthward. Captain King thus expreflès himfelf on the con-
ftancy of the winds. *' During the continuance of the light winds,
*' which prevailed almoft conftantly ever fince our departuic from
*' the Sandwich Iflanda."' And in the following page, he fays,
*> On the 6th of April, at noon, we loft the trade wind."
On comparing Dixon's journal with his table of the route, it ap-
pears that he left Atoui the iStli September, and arrived at Macao
on the i8th November, having in çi days of navigation, between
the equator, and the 13th degree of N. lat. "un 88 degrees of longi-
tude, with only one day of fouth wind : all the reft of the time the
wind continued eafterly.
" Our C' jit on judged it more prudent to fteerto the fouthward,
•■' ** till we were in about ij.deg. 30 min., and then bear away to the
"weft-
r?^'-
K
1786.] HOUND THE WORLD. ,^41
Though we only purfued one track upon this ocean,
this is not a fa6l entirely infulated^ for our run cpa-
tirtued near two months.
J agree, however, that we ought not hence to con-
clude, that the zone comprehended between the
northern tropic, and the 19th degree, is without the
limits of the trade winds in the month of November
and December. One lingle voyage is not fufficient
to change received opinions^ but we may afïèrt, that
the laws on which they are founded, are not fo uni-
verlal, as to admit of no exceptions, and confequently,
that they may be explained by thofe, who think they
have penetrated into the fecrets of nature. -
Even the theory of Halley concerning the varia-
tion of the magnetic needle, would have appeared to-
tally undeferving of confidence, even in the eyes of
its inventor, had that aftronomer, fo juftly celebrated
in fo many various ways, departed firom Monterey ia
. 1 24° W. long., and crofled the great ocean as far as
160° E. long. : for he would then have perceived,
that in a fpace of 76°, or more than 1 500 leagues, there
is a difference in the variation of only five degrees, and
that confequently the navigator cannot draw any con-
cluiion from it to détermine or rectify his longitude.
The method, however, by lunar obfervations, particu-
larly when combined with that of the time-keepers,
leaves fo little to be done in this refpeift, that we made
Aflump^ion Ifland, one of the Marianas, with the
greateft precifion, in the fuppofition that the ifland of
Tinian, of which Captain Wallis has given the place
I
:\v '
It
I'i .iU:
m
I!
I
** weft ward, as that track was tnoft likely fora true trade, and it had
*' been found in Captain Cook's laft voyage, that in the latitude 20
" and 21 deg. to leeward of thefe iflands, the winds are at beft buC
" light, and often variable. — Dixon* t f^oyage, p. 281. '' ^'*
" From the 2 2d Oftober to the 31ft, we had little variety. Acon-
" fiant eafterly trade wind caufed a heavy fwell, &c,— xWfrt, p. 285.
Here then is an additional proof, that the trade winds reign be-
tween thefe parallels, during the months of September, October,
and November, -^French Etlttor. '
Vol. I, R according
V»
'I
if
r
^é
tX VlfeOVib'g VOVXGE
3P^-
t
é
tl78(5-.
kiiiiB^nfe tb >ife a'fti-vàtibHs, lay nearly fouth of Af-
IftSiililbti ; â flîi'éftiô'h ivhich âll geographers, and na-
vigators have agreed in ailij^Miù'g to thé Ladroties or
ItSK^iîà'à. Ve mkàe tKèS'îflanils on thé V4th be-
"fc^mt^é^r àt't^ô îti 't>ie iltohodn. I had Ihaped my
^édui'fe't6yafs BiétWcéfi'^he iflà'ftd bf Mira, and that of
^ÈHlfei^a. ancl Gàrrfen tùitidj ivtiofe empty names oc-
• "fciif^y 'Wdce^ oh thie chart, Ivhfere ho land ever exifted ;
^lis'deëèîvîn^ 'navigators. Who ivill, perhaps, hereafter
Irtj'éét^Wîth them fdveral diegrees to the northward or
«fô<i^h#aM\ Â'ftîimption Maria itfclf, which forms
i 'pah '^( this "Well known clufter, of which we
have a hiftôt*y in 'feveral volumes, is placed in the
Jeîiiîts* "cliart (firice ôôpied by all other geogra-
Jphci^^ 30^t66 much to th e north ward . Its true place
' ?s ï ^^ 4V N. m., artd Ui^ is' E. long,
' . 'A.'s'i^eYâw^t'rbyi bur anchoring place Mangs beàr-
fhjET 1^8" Sï^ëft, ^iftaht about five léaffués, we found
That the three fôcks 6f that haine are alfo placed 30'
. ^6b miiéh to the ribfth'vvard ; and it is almoft certain
^he^lSmfe;érrôr 'ëxiils with règahl to Uracas, ihe laft
'of 'the lllarfeha tïTahcl's, of which the archipelago
'îïipMil ;biily ^extend as far as ' 20*^ Î20' N. lat. The
'Je^itsKaVe pretty accurately appreciated iheir dif-
; 'ï^néès'lfrèm'eaéh other, but they have made very bad
lâftfbhblhical' ôbtervâtioiis in tliis réfpecSl, Nor have
. {hëy,beeh liappiér in fixing the fize of Aflump-
'iVdn IlTând, for which they had probably fio other
jîieiihôd i;l>ûn 'their reckoning. For though they
^ 'd'èrcHbb'it as ïîx'leàgues îh circumference, the angles
*■ j^f pur furvey,r^4uce it to half that extent ; its higheft
,iij iii ,
,f,,o.
..*.riîaye'âïready advanced loathe notes on pages 24, 31, and 35,
t^at "^we are hot àutbpnféd, and that it would even be dangerous
to, expunge from pur charte, every ancient difcovery, for which
fôrriê nàYi^ator nwiy fiave fought in vain. An additional proof of
<his j^rtioi^.. is afforded by Captain Marfliall, who returning
frioiji'^ot'any Jpaj^ to Macao, in 17Ô8, naet with, (garden tfland, or
'ïfla"(le los Jarcîînes în'aïf deg. N. lat. and 14,0^ W. long, from the
meridian of Paris.— /><?»c/i jju^/w, ,_ *■ i -ji
t*, point
l!„
01780.1 jipy^D Tm y^AftLp» (ïW?
Îloint being about 200 tQife^ abavp the l^V^ ç£\hp.(l^'
^ t would ;be dii}îçi|Uifor th^rpoil lively imaeinjation tp
paint a more horrid .plaçc> though ,the n\qn oirdin^
afped after fodong A ri|n would l^iyel^pen deljgl^tf^i
1Ô us : but ft peifwft çpnp, whQfe)Ôi^açe,..9S f^rjas^
totfcis above the level of the fea.w^ ^ bj^qk as.ço^,
could only eaoite painful ^f^tiQns,,by cl^illiiig.pv^
iflattering ihope : for during ifn^ny yfc^ks p^À, ,w^
thad anticipated the turtles and , cocoa . puts, in yfh\^
.we, hoped to luxuriate on one of the-^ariap^ ifl^nfis.
In,faél we perceived fon)exocoa7nuttre;çs,,>vyçh,pQ-
cupy fcarçely /a fifteenth part of the çjrcumfç^pce ,ç£
this ifland, for a depth of 40 toifes, and wjiieh jy^ere. jn
a manner concealed jan^riheltercd from tbe eafl: iwipd.
3'his was the only part of the ifland .^here it jiv^s
poffible to anchor^ the depth of watçr being .^pfathpfas
over.a.bottom of blackjand, whioh ex^çpjcjs Ms ^liafi
3 quarterof ,a league. The ;iVftroJi*be (b^id gajp^
this (anchoring place, I lia4 ^aKo çojçne to ,wit})ifi
pistol (hot .vf her; but having rdrove ba^,a çaWeJs
length,, our anchor loft its hçM,i^p4. we. wpçe oblige
^o.'weigh it again with 100. fathoms, /i^f cable .p^tj^^d
m5,ke two bcjards tft^t in, with the; lanjd. [J^j^s litj^Je
accident gave mc: njgtt m.uchi wfleaiin^s, as I pçricîçix^
the i^and .<Jid .not .merit, a i JioQg ft?iy . JV^y bp^it ^s
gfixne aihore under the içiommanid, pf rM-: Pputin, ^V^-
tetjant.de vaiffe.au, ,as weJl as that of the ^l]t;rQlabe,
in which M. de X^angle went bimfelf, together with
JV^eflrs. de. la Martinière, .Ya^ijiuas, Preypft, , and ;Fa-
Iber Receveur. . I obftrved, by tl)e ,, help of iT^y glafs,
that tj^eyi had. great difculty in landing,. as the fça
broke . every where ; but they hfvd taken advajjx^gp
©f a fmooth interval, by leaping into the >yatçr;^p
to, their necks, il was fearful thQy ,\yQi|ild,find,i(lill
greater difficulty in re-embarking, as the fuff imigl^t
increafe, every mproent. TJiis was the only circum-
ûftnce . that could . induce . ,me . tp anchor; t^ere, .^ fpr
we were all .uâïv ^as .&Bi;iQys . to >depaf t, .. aSijye^^lj^d
R2 ' been
\
n
.1: ^
%
1
I < t I
I
l' ■ !Ri I
ll
m>- »
€
244 LA pilRdU8E*ft V0YA6E [l786.
been ardently dcffirous to arrive. I was therefore
'vfefy happy to fee our boats return at two o'clock,
and the Adrolabe got under way. M. Bontm in-
'formed me the ifland was a thoufand times more
'horrible than it appeared at a quarter of a league dif-
•tance. The lava that had flowed from it has formed
precipices and. hollows, boi-dcred with a few flunted
tocoa-nut trees, very thinly fcattorcd, and mixed with
limes, and a fmall number of plants, among which
it is almoin impoflible to go lOO toifcs in an hour.
Fifteen or fixteen men were employed from nine in
the morning till noon in bringing about 100 cocoa-
nuts to the boats, though they had only to pick them
under the trees ; for they found the greateft difficulty
in carrying them to the fea-lide, notwithftanding the
diftancc was very (hort. The kiva which had iftued
from the o.fatcr, had covered the whole circumference
as far ar» e border of -about 40 toifes towards the fea.
The fummit appeared in a manner vitrified, but re-
fembling black glafs of the colour of foot. We never
perceived the termination of the iummit, which was
capped with clouds. Although \n'e faw no fmoke,
the fulphureous fmell, which extended half a league
out to fea, led me to fufpeét itVas not entirely ex-
tinguifhed, and that its lad eruption was poffibly not
very ancient ; for there appeared no trace of decom-
pofition m the lava on the middle of the mountain.
^^^ Every thing fhowed that no human creature, nor
even a quadruped, had ever been unfortunate enough
to have this iiland for its home. We faw no-
thing but crabs of the largeft kind, very dangerous
during the night to the weary traveller who fhould
refign hjmfelf to flecp. One of them was brought
on board. It is probable this fhcll-fi^fh has driven
away from the ifland the fea-birds, who always lay
on ihore, and whofe eggs they would devour. We
only faw three or four noddies at the anchoring-
place : but when we approached the Mangs, our iliips
ii'^P'ii
were
jf
ê'
1^86.J IIOUND HE WOBLD. »i
were furroundcti with in umcrn' 'o flights of oitHlk*
On Afliimption Ifland M. i\e L Je kil J otic i,-^,.
fembling a Wack-bircl, and oi t lame viour, but
it was not added to our colleé^i^ i, as it icii down a
precipice. Our naturalifts f'ouini, in the hollows of
nocks, fome very fine (hells ; and M. de la Mmtiniôrc
made an ample harvcft of plants, bringing on board
three or four Ipeeics of the banana-tree, which I had
never feen in any country. We did not perceive
any other fifh than a red ray, fome fmall Iharks, and
a fca ferpent, which might be three feet long, and
three inches thick. The ,100 cocoa-nuts, and thft
fmall quantity of fpecimens of natural hillory we hadi .
{o rapidly fnatched frou) the volcano, for fuch is the
true defcription of the ifjand, had cxpofpd our boat»
and crews to coniiderablc dangers. M. Boutin,
obliged to throw himfelf into the fea, both to get on
fhore and to re- embark, received lèverai wounds ir^
his hands, having been neceffitated to lean on the
fharp rocks with which the ifland is Ikirted. M. dc
Langle alfo ran fome rifks, but thefe are unavoidable
in landing in fuch fmall iflands, and particularly thofe
fo circular in their form. The fea, which comes
from to windw.ard, glides along the fhore, and forms,
at every point, a furf which renders debarkation ex-:
tremely dangerouSi
Fortunately we had a fufficiency of water till our
arrival in China; for it would have been difficult tq
take it in at AfTunjption Ifland, even fhould it afford
any. Our adventiirers perceived none, except in ,
ithe hollows of fome rocks, where it was prcferved
as in a bowl ; nor did the moil conlidecable of thefç
contain more than fix bottles.
At three o'clock, the Aflrplabe having got under
fail, we continued our courfe W. by N., ranging along
the Mangs, which bore from us N. E. by N. diftant
three or four leagues. I was delirous of determining
the polition of Uracas, the northernmoll of the Maria-
R 3 . U nas.
>
■*<w,
%*v
#
*'
*#
4.
r
*
i4i^ CA ^éiteùiW's voY)fcE [178^.
nift^, bUf ^€ itittfl: hrfV« ftteriffccd a night, ntid I wjw
art^ious to rèàth China, left the European fhips ll^ould
hë failed befort*. oui* arrival. By them I ardently
iVifhed to fend hofne to France, an account of our
fûbônrs on the côaft of America, 08 #ell as of our
Voyage to Maôao ; and, therefore, that vrc might not
Ibfe à moment, I (food on under a crowd ( }( fail.
Both our (hipâ Were furroundcd, during the night,
>^ith it)numerable flights of birds^ arpparently inhabi-
tjants of the IVIaln^s dnd Uracas, which arc mere rocks,
it is evident thefe birds do not go to a diftance
fi"om them, but to lecvVard ; for we fcdrcely faw any
l!o the eaftward of the Mariana, and they accom-
panied tis 50 leagues to the WeftWard. The greatcll
Auftrtfcer of thefe were a fpecies of man-of-war birds '
and noddies, with fome gulls, terns, and tropical
Mfds. We met with ftrong breezes in the channel
tbat féparateë thé lylariatias from the Philippine
Iflàntfe, a very heivy (fed, and currents, that fet us
èbttftkntly to the fouthward : their drift may be efti-
Ihiited at hëlf a knot an hour. My (hip now made a
little viâlét for the firft time fmce our departure from
Fràticè, which I attributed to fome of the oakum in thd
feâms near the wàte'i^ line Having rotted. Gur taulkers,
whb, during this run, eiamined thé (hips (ides, found
feveral feams almoft open, and they fufpeéled thofc
îréâr the water to be in the famé ûatt. They had
fiot bèeh àblèto re^lr them at fèa, but it was their
jîrli bu(iAë(^ ott ô'tor arVivàl in the i'oad of Macno.
ÛÛ the 28th we faW the Bàfhec Idandsj* of which
ifttdiinîrûl Byron has laid dov^'ri the longitude, though
Wàiicutàtèljr ; that of CAptain Wallis being nearer
the truth. We paflcd at a league diftance from the
îiortberhmôft fdckè. They oiVght, however, to be
'^hïïtd ijlets, Aotivithftandi'ng the authority of Dam-
• ' . '• • ► - . ■
,♦ Thq Bafhee or Baçhi Iflands, were fq named by William Dam-
^ier from an intOAicatine; liquor drunk therlj in ereat abuudaiice.
*--~FreiichEâté.--'-'^\'-' y-' ;'=^-»*,^-^ "^ i^v.>«^' -^ ■*' ^
-.; ^. y »^ 4 . r ^i Ï pier.
'f'"-
•
1767>J RQUl^D TJIR WOSLD. ^7
pier, for the fmallefl of them is half a league in cir-
cumference ; and although it is not wooded, we faw
many herbs on the eail fitlc of it. l^e ead longitude
of this iflet \vas determined when bearing tbuth of us,
(HHant three miles ; and according to a mean of above
t)0 fets of lunar obfervations, taken in the moft favour-
able cirumf^ances, was fixed at 1 19° 41^ and its la-
titude at 21" 9^ 13" N. ». M. Bcrnizet alfo deline-
ated the relative fituation of all thcfe iflands, and
drew a plan of thenf, which was the refult of above
200 bearings. I did not propofe to put in there, the
Bafhec's having been already repeatedly .vilited, and
there being nothing interefting to invitfc us.
Having therefore determined their pofition, I con-
tinued my courfe towards China, and on the firft of
January, 1787, I ftruck ground in do fathoms water.
The n^xt day we were furroundcd by a grc^t nufn^
bcr of fi(hing-boatç, vvjiich kept t}!^ fea in fpit^ of
bad weather, but could uot diyert their attcntjop tip7
vfa,rd^ U9 for a njioment, the nati^re of their ^i)?ery
not permitting them tq turn alide to come along lidç
of a (hip, while dragging along the ground pet9 pf
an extreme length» that could not be raifcd in twq
hours. ,
On the 2d of January we faw White-rock, find ?w-
chored at night to the pprthward of Ling^ting,ap,d thç
ne3^t day in the road of Mac^o ; airier having pa^jbd
a ch9.iinpj,-fr which, though very faie, I believe to bç
but little frequented. We took Chine(c pilqt$ ()^
boiird >vit,hip t^ iijai)4 9^ J^W^*
* I thyik it qeceflTâry to apprife qavig^tors, that thefe pretended
rocks nre fmall iflanuls, becauie that çrroneipus name led nie into an
error during feveral hours.
t Navig^ors \vho wi(h to kni99f this «hannpi, ought to prç^virç
Pahympie's chart, pjjbUflje^ ia t^e Ncp^ui\e of Dapr;^. >Ve left
the great Lema, the iflafids of Ling-tinig, Chichow, Laf-j^m-mee,
Long-fhitow, and Chang- chow, to the fouthward; and to the
northward only the iflaad of Sockpchow, and the great iflaAd of
iUntaq,
R4 CHAP,
* '
4»
248
hX PEROUSE S VOYAGE
[1787.
f ..^
CHAP. XIV.
•V --v
ARRIVAL AT MACAO STAY IN THE ROAD OP TYPA —
. POLITE RECEPTION OP THE GOVERNOR DESCRIP-
«.( TION OP MACaO^ITS GOVERNMENT POPULA-
? ^ TION AND RELATION WITH CHINA. DEPARTURE
*f FRspM MACAO OUR LAND-PALL IN THE ISLAND OP
, *» LUCONIA UNCERTAINTY OP * THE SITUATION OP
f THE BANKS OP BULINAO, MANSILOQ, AND MARI-
I VELLE WE ENTER THE BAY OP MANILLA BY
^ , THE SOUTH CHANNEL, HAVING TRIED THE NORTH
. IN VAIN MARKS POR WORKING INTO THE BAY
^ ") OP MANILLA WITHOUT DANGER ANCHORAGE AT
• CAVITA.
THE Chinefe, who had piloted us into Macao,
refused to condu6l us to the anchorage of Ty-
pa, fhowing the greateft anxiety to get away with
their boats; and we have lince learned, that had
^ they been feen, the mandarin of Macao would have
demanded of each of them half the money they re-
' ceived ; a fort of contribution vi^hich is generally
preceded by lèverai found baftinadoes. This nation,
whofe laws are fo panegyrifed in Europe, is perhaps
the mod miferable, the moil: oppreiîèd, and the moft
arbitrarily governed people on the face of the earth ;
at leaft if we may judge of the Ghinefe government
by the defpotifm of the mandarin of Macao.
The weather, being very cloudy, had riot yet per-
mitted us to diflinguifli the town ; but it cleared
up at noon, when it bore W. l° S. diftant about
three leagues. I then fent a boat afhore, under the
command of M. Boutin, to apprize the govcriior of
our arrival, and to inform him we propofed making
fome ftay in the harbour, in order to procure re-
freihments, and give repofe to our (hips' companies.
Senhor Bernardo Alexis de Lemos^ governor of Ma-
.'^ ^ cao,
1?.
' m
. . -t
/ il4. ■
is«'-
1787.J ROUND THE WORLD. 24^
cao, received that officer with the greateft politenefs,
and offered us every affiftance in his povver, fending
immediately a Malay pilot on board to carry us to
the anchorage of Typa. We got under fail the next
day at day-break, and dropped anchor at eight ia
the morning, in three and a half fathoms water over
a muddy bottom, the town of Macao, bearing N. E,
diftant five miles.
We anchored alongfide a French (hip armed enflûte^
commanded by M. de Richery, enfeigne de vatffeau.
This (hip came from Manilla, and was ordered by
Mcflrs. d'Entrecafteaux and Coffigny to cruize oft*
the eaftern coalls to proteéi our trade. Thus, after
an interval of 18 months, had we the pleafure of
meeting, not only with our countrymen, but even
our friends and acquaintance. M. de Richery had,
the preceding evening, come on board with the
Malay pilot, bringing us a confiderable quantity of
fruits, vegetables, frefh meat, and, in a word, every
thing he imagined would be agreeable to us, after
fo long. a voyage. Our healthy appearance feemed
to furprize him, and he informed us of the political
tranfa<5lions of Europe, whofe fituation was precifely
the fame as at our departure from France ; but all my
enquiries at Macao, for fome one who might have any
packets for us were in vain. It was more than pro-
bable, no letters addreflèd to us had arrived in Chi-
na, and we felt a painful alarm left our families and
friends had forgotten us. But unhappy circum-
ilances render men unjuft ; and it was poffible the
letters, we fo feverely regretted, might have been
fent on board the Company's (hip that had loft her
voyage. Her confort had arrived alone, and it ap-
peared by the captain's information, that the greateft
part of the funds and all the letters had been put on
board the other (hip. The misfortunes that had pre-
vented the arrival of this (hip, did not perhaps give
fo much pain to the ftockhoiders themfelves as we
. 4- , experienced
s>
X
#•
#■
'Ife
11
25a ' LA PÉROUSB's VOYAQB [l7S7.
experienced at this difappointment ; fiop dottjd wc
avoid remarking that of twenty-nine Englifh (hips,
five Dutchmen, two Danes, a Swede, two Anjeri-
cans, and two French, the only one that loft her
voyage was from our own country. As the Engljfli
never entruft their (hips but with thorough bred fea-
mcn, fuch an event to them is aUnoft unheard of.
Even when they arrive in the feas of China fo late
as to find the N. E. monfoon fet in, they obftinate-
ly ilruggle with this opponent, and often get to the
eaftvvard of the Philippines, and then getting up to
the northward in this Tea, which is infinitely more
extenfiveand Icfs expofed to currents, they return
fouth of the Bafhee iflands, ftand in for Piedra
Blanca, and, like us, pafa to the northward of Great
Lema. We ourielves witnefted the arrival of an
Englifh (hip, which, after purfuing that track, anf
chored ten days after in the harhonr of M^cao, and
immediately afterwards went up to Canton ♦,
My firft ftep, after mooring the fhip, was tq go on
Ihore with M. de Langle, to thank the Governor for
his polite reception of M. Boutin, and to aik his per-
miffion to have a dation on (hore for fetting up an
obfervatory,and to accommodate M. Dagelet, who was
greatly fatigued with our laft voyage, and M. Kollin
our furgeon-major, who after prcferving us froni the
fcurvy, and all other diforders, by his attention and
advice, would himfelf have funk beneath the fatigues
of tbis long run, had we arrived a week later.
Senhor de Lemos received us like countrymen. All
we had afked was graintcd, with a politenefs no lan-
guage can defcrihe. He offered us bis houiê, and ps
he did not fpeak French, his wife, a young Portuguefe
from Liïbon, aéled as interpreter. She coniinuni-
* D'Ëotrecaftaux performed a voyage frono the Ifle of France to
Chiua ^aiaû the moni'oons, croifing the fea# by aimed nQkiiown
tracks, and difeovered fevet;al rociis net laid down in any chart. —
, ,, :: -^ ' . ' cated
-*,
.»
*
»•
#
t
W
^V'
1787.] ROTUND THE WORLD. 251
catcd her hufband's replies with a gracefiilnefs, and
sn amiability peculiar to herfelf, and exceeding every
thirtg a traveller might flatter birafelf with finding in
tbe principal cities of Europe.
Dona Maria de Saldanha had married Sfenbor de
LemosatGoa twelve years before ; and I aiTived at that
place foon after the nuptials, then commanding La.
Seine, a fhip armed en flute. She politely reminded me
of that crrcumlldnce, of which, however, I had a very
lively impreffion, kindly adding that I was an old
acquaintance. Then calling her children, fhe faid it
was thus fhe! always prefented herfelf to her friend^
their education being the objeét of all her care : that
fhe w a« proud of being their mother, and that we muft
forgive that pride, as fhe vrifhed to introduce herfelf
with all her faults.
No part of the world, perhaps, could exhibit a more
enchanting piélure. The moft beautiful children
furrounding and embracing the mofl charming of
ilnothers, wbofe goodnefs and fweetnefs difFufed a ge- *
neral warmth of colouring over every thing around
her.
We foon perceived that, added to her accomplifh-
ments and domeftic virtues, fhe poiîèlîèd a firmnefs
of chara6ler, and an elevation of mind, in confequence
of which Senhor de Lemos had, in many fituations
of delicacy with regard to the Chinefe, been confirmed
in his generous refolutions by his lady ; both of them
coinciding in opinion that they ought not, like their
prèdecefîbrs, to facrifice the honour of their nation to
any other obje6l. The adminiftration of Senhor do
Lemos .would have formed an epoch a in that fet-
tlcment^ had the government at Goa been fufficient-
ly enlightened to continue him longer in office than
three years, and left him time to accultom the Chinele
to a rcliftance, obliterated even from their memory
for above a centurv.
An inhabitant of Macao being as much a ftranger to
f * China
/^.
i.
'«#
^
n
■(
A *
IT*
■ÉtM
#.
^
#<-
4
*■
«"
.:*,
252 LA pérouse's voyage I^TBT.
China as if in Europe, in confeqiience of the extreme
difficulty of penetrating into that empire, I (hall not
imitate thofe travellers who have fpoken of it with^.
out knowing it, but fhall confine myfelf to a defcrip-
tion of the commercial relation between the Euro-
peans and the Chinefe, the extreme humiliation they
experience, the feeble protection they receive from
the Portngucfe fettlement on the coaft of China,
and, in fliort, the importance whith the town of Ma-
cao might poffcfs, in the hands of a nation that would
condiié^ itielf with juftice, with firmnefs, and with
dignity, againft a government, perhaps, the moft un-
juft, the mod oppreffive, and at the fame time, the
moft cowardly that exills.
The Chinefe carry on a trade with the Europeans
amounting to 50 millions, two fifths of which are
paid for in filver, and thcrefl in Englifh woollen ma-'
nufaé^urcs, Batavian or Malaytutenag, Surat and
Bengal cotton, opium from Seringatam, fandal wood,
and pepper from the Malabar coaft. Some articles of
luxury are alfo brought from Europe, as the largcfl
plates of glafs, Geneva watches, coral, and fine pearls:
but thefe laft fcarcely dcferve mention, as they can
only be fold in very fmall quantities, and with little
advantage. In exchange for all thefe riches, China
only gives green and black tea, with fome chefls of
raw filk for European manufaélures : for I do not
reckon the porcelain, broup;ht home as ballafl, or the
lilks, which produce fcarcely any profit. Certainly
no nation carries on fo advantageous a trade with fo-
reigners, impofes conditions fo hard, or multiplies
rcftraints and vexations in fo many various ways.
Not a cup of tea is drunk in Europe, which has not
occafioned fome humiliation to its purchafers, its
fliippers, and thofe who traverfe half the globe to
bring this leaf to our markets.
I cannot here refrain from relating, that two years
ago, an Englifli gunner being ordered by his Cap-
^-\ ■ "* m K- , .^ ;- . " ^ ' tain
* .^-
,t
'.îK
1787.] BOUND THE WO<lI,I>. " 253
tain to fire a falute, killed a Chinefe fiflierman in
a fampane, which lay imprudently in the range of
. his gun, and which the former could not perceive.
The Santock, or Governor of Canton demanded
the gunner to be delivered up, which was not
complied with, till he promifed no harm ihould
be done to him, adding, that he was not fo unjud as
to puni(h an involuntary homicide. On this afliir-
ance the poor fellow was given up, and two hpurs af-
ter was hung. The honour of the nation required
a prompt and exemplary vengeance, but merchant-
Ihips had no means to enforce it, and the Captains,
accuftomed to a6t with precifion, good faith, and mot-
deration, in order not to compromife the property of
their employers, could not engage in a generous re-
iiflance, which would have coft the Company a lofs of
40 millions, by theic (hips returning empty. But they
ifhavé doubtlefs denounced that injury, and flatter
themfelves with the profpeél of obtaining (ktisfac-
tion. I dare affirm, that all the perfons employed
by the different European companies, would joyfully
unite in, facrificing a great part of their fortunes, to
teach thefe bafe mandarins, that there are limits -to
their injuftice, and that their enormities have exceeded
the bpunds of humanity to tolerate. j lur??^
The Portuguefe have more rcalbn to complain cî
the Cbinefe than any other nation. Their refpec-
table title to the poflcffion of Macao is well known.
The grant of the fite of that city is a monument c^
the gratitude of the* Emperor Camhy, granted to
them as a reward for deftroying the pirates, who from
the iflands in the vicinity of Canton, infefted the feas
and ravaged all the coalls of China. It is a vain de-
.clamation to attribute the lofs of their privileges to
their abufe of them. Their only crime is the feeble-
nefs of their government. The Chinçfe every day
load them with new injuries, and every moment in-
creafe their pretenfionsj to which the Portuguefe
govern-
1^
in
ii
'#
V'
Î54 LA »é»OU9E's VOYAGE {l7^7.
govcmtnent never ojjpofed the leaft refîftance ; land
'§>1I8 this liation, tfroih whiSh a nation tl^sfKifl^flkl
•thé lead onorgy, tisi^ht overaw the£inpe9pr,^jQ|)îii9,
'is fcaroely inMvellfhan a «mere Chinefe village, >ièhek«
<the Fortugudfe are 'tolerated, althou^ po^^giétt
'incohtetlibïe right to • command, ^n4 'the itaéi^iio
'màkeitbemrelves'râfpc^d, had they^.but a;ganiiba?éf
.^eOO i^uropeang, with two frigates^, ^a i&w ^ûtmftttà,
-and a feontb-kctch.
Macao, which is lîtuated at the «mouth >clf^lh«|il^
"gt^^ ha6>a road-tflead fpacious epough ito «coptoinfôp
•gan^Oiîps at the entrance ^ofiTypa, >and <in ttS(|iaé-
-bour, which' is 'below the 'town, and «cbminonicataB
/with the river up to the caftward, '(hijws ^of isven
tft eight ^hundred tons, -with half their >^i|ig.» ,:àc-
^ordîng'tcKOur obfervations it+isin lOP il^^ 4i3f* r^,
iât. and lii*^ i^^ao^tE.ioiïg. ,
iptfThe 'fnouth of this harbour .is defended hf m(
-ùit^C» of two batteries, whit^h muA be ' kept .withià
f»^-f{hdt in entering. Three ^frn^i ibrts, two ii[^*
firliieh .at«e > mounted with twelve «uas^ land tjbb
third'with -fl'x, pi-otëi6l the • fouth ifioe ^of the itmm
#om eFCi^'tttempti of' thei (i>hinefe. ' (Shefecfortifiear-
%ions, '^p^hkh arè^in the wot^ft fàKûie tUB^ivrùuAâ
fie far from formidable to lEuropeaas, but' tliey< may
«a^ty 0Mer-awe all the «natitime: forces jof^tftiei Chi-
nese. Â «lountâân 'àlib commands the coaft, ^Jivher^
Ai'detaèhment of troops •would holfd outa ^tery Joi^
l^egc. ^hecPortu^uéfe^rMacao, mwe «devout thall
warlike, 'have built a chr^jireh on* the> ruina. df ^a^ ^ptf^
^irliièh crowned this'mouutàin^^ming/vt that tinib^
!an*4mpr«gaable pctfl.
' 'xThe- fide f next - the land ^ is «defended ibyi^tm) Jfiar-r
trefTcs, one of '«whièhis -inounted -with i4Û «gusns»
«lid eap&ble of;contaioing>a^garrl(bri'ôf laOQ BQen;
ft'is provided 'wiïh a^^dftern,' 4wo ifSsiiigs-Gf^nftiiBiag
M^ter, <^a«id > opfemaies^ toiay lUp ivaaitie ammiun iitian
Ktié;pro^lk)fis. ^Picctber^ <Mi^biéh>fn«mintSj30~guns,
cannot
'^-
ce; land
' : - 'J*'.-. ' .1
fts(|iac-
lunicataB
of iMa
vt.wôthiâ
^ two .(^*
«od tjbe
tiefitii»^
fortificii^
iciChi-
try isog
>iit th^
attime^
mo £&[".
10 nien;
Aoniitiiail
O-guns»
cannot
m.
« t
1787.] ■ BOUND THE WoîiLir. ' 255
cannot receive above 300 men, and has a very
abundant fpring that iicVer fails. Thefe two cita-
dels command the whole country. The Portuguefe
frontiers extend nearly a league from the town, and
are bounded by a wall guarded by a mandarin and a
few foldiefs. This mandarin is the true governor
of IVlfacao, Ivhom all the Chinefe obey, though he
is not allowed to fleep wit'hin thefe limits. But he
may examine all the fortifications, infpedl the cUftom-
houfes, &c. and on thefe occafions the Portuguefe
are obliged to give him a fdliite of five guns. But no
European can make a fingle flop on the Ghinefe ter-
ritory beyond the Wall, andthe leaft imprudence of
this kind would leave him .at the mercy of the
'Chinefe, who might either keep him in prifon, or
exadl from him a'hcavy eontnbution. Some of the
officers of our flîips, however, expofed themfelves
to this riik, without this a<?l of levity being followed
by any unhappy confequences.
The whole population of Macao may be com-
iputed at 20,000, of Whom 100 are Portuguefe by
'birth, 2000 metis, or half Indians and half Pottu-
•guefe, as many Ctiïïre îlaves, their domeflics. The
réft are Chinefe, who eniploy themfelves in com-
merce and dilffererit trades, by whkh they lay the
Portuguefe themfelves under contribution to their
in'diiflry. Thefe 1 aft, although almofl all miilat-
toes, would think themfelves difgraced, if they fup-
porljied -their iamilies by éxercîfing any mechapic
art, 'thoiightheir, pride is not above ' continually fb-
liciting charijy, with importunity, from every one
thg^pafs. M. , , , >
The Viceroy of feoa nominates to àîl civil and mili-
tary offices at- iClàcâo, arid appoints the Governor aiTd
àirthe "Senators, \^ho participate "in the civil autho-
l4ty. He has lately fixed. the garrifom àt l'ÔO 'Indian
feapbySj'and' l'2tO militia men; whofefervice cûhlifts iu
patrolcs àt night. The" foîdiers are: atmed with'Hicks,
A- and
■IPT'
«
t
II
i : ,
*...
.#*•
%;
250 LA PEROUSE S VOYAGE L*^^/'
and the officer alone has the privilege of wearing a
fword ; though he can on no occafion employ it
.againft a Chinefe. Even fhould a thief of that na-
tion be found breaking the door of a houfe, and car-
rying away his goods, he muft arrcft him with the
. greateft caution ; and fliould the foldier, in defend-
ing himfelf againft the thief, have the misfortune to
kill him, he is delivered up to the Chinefe governor,
imd hung in the market place, in the prefcnce of the
guard to which he belonged, of a Portugucfe magi-
flrate, and of two Chinefe mandarines ; who, after the
execution, are falutcd by the forts as they quit the
city, in the fame manner as they are on entering it.
But if, on the other hand, a Chinefe kills a Portii-
guefe, he is only configned to the judges of his own
nation, who, after having plundered him, perform the
other formalities of juftice ; but fufFer him to efcapc,
and turn a deaf ear to the remonftrances of this in-
jured nation, which are never followed by any fitis-
fadion. ,^„ . -^^^ ri,^..u.,,r^,
. The Portugucfe, however, nave of late made an
effort of vigour, which will be engraved on tablets of
brafs in the fafti of the Senate. A feapoy having
killed a Chinefe, they (hot him in prefence of the
mandarines, and refufed to fubmit this affair to the
^(lecifion of the Chinefe tribunal. '''"■ *t'' ' *' ^
The Senate of Macao is compofed of the Gover-
nor, who is prefident, and three vereadores, who are
the auditors of the city finances. The revenue con-
fifts of the duties laid on merchandize, which can
only be imported in Portugucfe veffels. They are fo
unenlightened, that they would not permit a fhip of
any other nation to land their cargo, even on paying
thefe eftabliflied duties, as if they feared to encreafe
the revenue of their own treafury, or diminifli that of
the Chinefe at Canton. V ■. „ ,-..:.. ^-*
It is certain that were Macao made a free port, and
tad that city a garrifon capable of defending com-
1 ^ ^ ^ mercial
17B7.J ftOUNl) THE WORLD. 557
mercial property, when depofited there, the revenue
of their cuftom-houfc would be doubled, and would,
doubtlefs, be adequate to all the expences of the
government. But a trifling intereft oppofes this re-
gulation which found policy fo clearly di6lates. The
Viceroy of Goa fells Portugucfe commiflions to the
merchants of the various nations who carry on a
Goading trade in the Eaft Indies ; and thefe fame
fhip owners make prefents to the Senate 6( Macao,
according to the importance of their voyage ; a com-
mercial motive which would be an invincible obdacle
to the eftablifhmcnt of a free trade, though Macao
would be thereby rendered one of the moft flourifh-
ing cities of Afia, and inconceivably fuperiortoGoa,
whofe utility to its mother country will never be con-
lidcrablc.
Next in rank to the three vereadores already men-
tioned are two Judges of Orphans, whofe department
includes the adminiftration of the property of minors,
the execution of wills, the nomination of tutors and
guardians, and, in general, every thing relative to
fucceflions. From their decifion lies an appeal to
that of Goa.
Other civil or criminal caufes are alfo cogniz-
able, in the firft inftance, by two fenators, who
are nonriiriated as judges. A treafurer receives the
produce of the cuftoms, and pays, under the orders
of the Senate, the falaries and difburfements, which,
however, when exceeding 3000 piaftres, mull be
fan6lioned by an order of the Viceroy of Goa.
The moft important magiftracy is ihat of the Pro-
curator of the city, which is an intermediate office
between the Portugiiefe government and that of
China. He gives anfwers to all foreigners who may
wititer at Macao, aiid receives and tranfmits to their
l'èfpeétive governments th% mutual complaints of the
two nations, of which a Secretary, who has no deli-
berative voice, keeps a regifter, as attb ai all the dé-
VoL. I. i liberation»
iii
1 !
if
ii
; f
■ 1
1
1 ;
1
1
i
1 "{
V f
. si
- 1
1
1 !
!
-.
Ji
258 LÀ péROU8E*8 VOYAGB [l787:
liberations of the council. This is the only office for
life, that of the Governor being triennial, and the
other magiftatcs replaced every yeai;. So frequent a
change, which is inimical to every regular fyftem, has
contributed not a little to the annihilation of the
ancient rights of the Portuguefe, and doubtlefs can
only be continued, becaufe the Viceroy of Goa finds
his advantage in having many places to give away or
fill ; a conjcélurc authorized by the general manners
and cuiloms of Afia.
An appeal lies to Goa from all the decifions of the
fenate, and is rendered extremely necefiary by the
known incapacity of the Senators. The colleagues
of the Governor, who is himfelf a man of great merit,
arc Portuguefe of Macao, and are extremely haughty
and conceited, though more ignorant than a country
Ichoolmafter.
The appearance of this city is extremely pleafant.
Among the remains of its ancient opulence are feve-
ral fine houfes occupied by the fupcrcargoes of the
different companies, who are obliged to pafs the win-
ter there ; the Chinefe compelling them to quit Can-
ton as foon as the laft fhip of their nation has failed,
and not permitting them to return till the arrival of
ihips from Europe in the following monfoons.
Macao is rendered a very agreeable winter refi-
fidence by the différent fupereargoes, who are gene-
rally men of diflinguifticd merit, extremely well in-
formed, and have falaries that enable them to keep an
excellent houfe. The obje<5t of our miffion procured
us the politeft reception from them, for we (hould
Tiave been quit forlorn, had we come with no other
title than that of Frenchmen, our Eaft India com-
pany as yet having no reprefentative at Macao.
We owe a public teftimony of gratitude to M.
Elftockenftrom, the principal agent of the Swedifli
Eaft India company, whofe behaviour towards us was
that of an old friend and fellow-countryman, who
err ^-.c-i • c- warmly
;r refî-
1787. J ROUND TflE WORLI>.' 23j)
Warmly efpourcd the intcrcfts of our nation. He was
even (Icfirous at our departure to take upon hiinfclf
the fale of our furs, the jwoduce of which was to bo
divided among our crews, and he very kindly pro-
mifed to remit the amount to the li\c of France.
The value of thefc furs did not now exceed one
tenth of the price, when Captains Gore and King
arrived at Canton, bccaufe the Englifh had this year
fitted out fix expeditions to the N. W. coaft: of Ame-
rica ; two (hips in that trade having failed from Bom-
bay, two from Bengal, and two from Madras. The
two hifl: alone had returned, and brought but a Imall
quantity of Ikins. But the report of this equi[)ment
had fpread at China, and they only obtained 12 or 15
piaftres for the fame quality as in 1780 would hftvô
produced 100.
We had 1000 Ikins which a Portuguefe merchant
had agreed to purchafe for 9500 piaftres ; but at the
time of oUr departure for Manilla, when he was to
have paid the money, he hcfitated to receive them un-
der various frivolous pretexts. As this bargain had
deprived us of every other buyer, who were all return-
ed to Canton, he hoped, no doubt, that in this dif-
ficulty we fhould accede to any price he might chufe
to give ; and wc had even reafon to fufpeit, that he
fent fome Chinefe merchants to us, who offered a
much fmallcr fum. But, though unaccuflomed to
thefe manoeuvres, they were too clumfily contrived
hot to be feen through, and therefore we pofitively
refufed to fell them.
There now remained no other difficulty than that
of landing our furs, and depofiting them at Macao
as an enterpôt. The Senate, to whom our conful M.
Vaillard applied, refufed the permiffion he folicited :
but the Governor being informed they were the pro-
erty of failors employed in r,n expedition, whofe uti-
ity extended to all the maritime nations of Europe,
thought it his duty to fulfil the views of the Portu-
. .... Sa : guefe
!^
'i
il
l6o LA pérouse's voyage 1^767*
guefe government, by departing from the prelcribed
forms, and adied on this, as on all other occalions,
with his accuftomed delicacy *.
It is unneceflary to obferve, that the Mandarin of
Macao made no* demand for our Hay in the road of
Typa, which, together with the other iflands, form»
no part of the Portugucfe territories. His claim^
had he made any, would have been rejected with
contempt ; but wc learned, that he demanded 1000
piaftres from the comprador, who fupplied us with
provifions. That fum, however, was but a trifle,
when compared with the impoiitions of this compra-'
dor 4-, whofe account, for the five or fix firft days,
amounted
• Having feized every opportunity impartially to prove the cre-
dit due to Dixon, I doubt not the perufal of La Péroufe's voyage
will occafion tl\at Captain fome concern, for having accufed our
navigators of impoftare or of mercantile views, Juftice demand»
that I fhould repel this calumnious imputation. I fliall quote thft
palTage from Dixon's voyage, page 320.
" The L'Aftrolabe and Bouflale, two French fliips, commanded
" by M. Peyroufeand de Lan gle, failed from France in 1785 ; they
*♦ are faid to have traced the N. W coaft of America, from the
•' Spanith fettlements of Montrerv to 60 deg of N. lat. ; but this
•* feems rather improbable ; for though thefe vcflcls were profefled-
•• ly fitted out on difcovery, yet the commanders did not forget that
*' Airs were a valuable article, and, accordingly, whilfton the Ame-
•' rican coaft, they procured about 600 fea-otter flcins, chiefly in
•' pieces of a very inferior quality, and evidently the fame as thofe
•' imported by the Spaniards ; whereas, had thefe gentlemen been
•* well in with the coaft to the northward, they undoubtedly mull
*' have met with fea-otter (kins of a quality far fuperior to what
•' they procured."
After obferving that La Péroufe trafficked for otter (kins, merely
in conformity to his orders tn Art. ix. of the fécond part of his
inftruftions, and in order to be furnifiied with fafts in this branch
of commerce, on which to found his report, and that he only dif-
pofed of them for the benefit of the (ailors, I Ihali remark, in
contradiéVion to Dixon's aflertion, that this purchafe took place at
Port des Français^ in ç8 deg. 37 min. N. lat. and therefore La Pé-
loufc was right in a(rerting that there could not be ten per cent.
difFe.ence between the (kins procured at Port des Français and thofe
of yionttvty .~- French Editor.
f 'Î Every vefTcl was fupplied with whatever provifions they
«« wanted.
J 787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 26 1
amounted to more than 300 piaftres ; after which,
being convinced of his knavery, we difchargcd him.
Our commifïàry's clerk afterwards went daily to the
market, as in any town of Europe, to make the ne-
ceflary purchafes, and then the expence of a whole
month did not equal that of the firft week.
Probably our œconomy difpleafcd the Mandarin :
but this was mere conjecîlure, for we had no commu-
nication with him. The Chinefe cuftom-houfes have
no tranfa6^ions with Europeans, except concerning
the articles of traffic, which come from the interior
of China in boats of that country, or are embarked
in the lame boats to be fold in the interior of the
empire. But what wc purchafed at Macao to be
brought on board in our own boats, was not liable to
any (earch.
The climate of the road of Typa is at this feafon
very changeable, the thermometer varying eight de*
grees from one day to another, and almoft all of us
had fevere colds attended with fever. Thefe, how-
ever, yielded to the fine temperature of the ifland
of Luconia, which we made on the 1 5th of February.
We left Macao on the 5th, at eight in the morning,
with a north wind, that would have enabled us to
pafs between the iflands, had I had a pilot. But
wifhing to avoid that expence, which is confiderable,
Ï followed the ufual track, and went to the lbuthwar4
of the great Ijadrone, having taken on board each
** wanted, by an officer called a compradvr^ who always demanded
*• a cumjhanu or gratuity of 300 dollars, exclufive of the profit
** which would accrue to him from ferving us with proviGons.
" A demand of this nature appeared fo very exorbitant, that we
** determined, if poflible, to avoid it ; and a Captain Taflcer,
** from Bombay, whofe veflel lay near ours, kindly offered to fur-
** nifh us with beef for the prefent. This, however, could not be
*' done without caution ; for we had a hoppoy or cuflom-houfe
*' boat on each fide of the vefTel, with officers on board, who
♦* made it a point to prevent any beef coming on board, 'jnlefs
•• furnifbed by a comprador." Dixon's Voyage^ p. z^z,-— French
S3 fhip
i
fi62 LA PÉROUSPi's VOYAGE [l787,
(liip fix Chinefc failors, to replace thofe wc had un-:
fortunately loft when our boats were wrecked.
This nation is fo wretched, that, notwithftanding
the laws of the empire prohibit quitting the country,
we could eafily have engaged 200 men in a week, had
wc been in need of them.
At Macao our obfcrvatory had been fet up in thç
convent of Auguftins, where we determined the
longitude of that cily to be 111° 1 9' 30" E. by the
mean of feveial fets of lunar obfervations. We had
alfo verified the rate of our time-keepers, and found
that the daily lofs on mean time of No. IQjWas 12^36",
which exceeded any deviation we had experienced
previous to that period. It muft, however, be ob-
fervcd, that iluving '24 hours the winding up this
tinie-kecpcr hadbcei) forgotten, and that having thus
been ftoppcd, the want of continuity in its motion
had probiibiy ciufed its derangement. But on the
fiippufit'on, that till our arrival à Macao, and pre-
\i()us fO the i.v'gle(9;, of which cknowledge we
were guiity, the lois of time by ^io. IQ was the fame
ar that «ietcrmincd at la Conception, this time-keepei*
would have given 1 lb° 33' 33" as the longitude of
îvl;:cao, that, is 2*^ 14'' 3" more than it really is, ac-
cording to v>ur lunar obfervations. Thus the error
of the L 'me- keeper, after ten months navigation,
would only have been 45 leagues.
T >e iiortnerly wiiu'.p now permitted me to get
to the ealtwaid, and Ï fhould have got fight of Piedra
31anca, had they not prefcntly fliifted to the E. S. E.
The infonnuion I had procured at Macao, concern-
ing the bell track to purfuc a«s far as Manilla, had not
determined my opinion, whether it was better to go
to the norihwii.u or fouthward of Banco de Pratas,
and I concIiKled, from the diverfity of opinions on
that point, ih î one route was as good as the other.
Tiie e;.ficrlv \'. . ds blowincr (trôner, determined me to
ftand clofc-hauicd upon the itarboard tack, and to
' ' ^ direél
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 263
diretft my courfe to leeward of that bank, which is
crroneoully laid down on all the charts previous to the
third voyage of Captain Cook. Captain King, hav-
ing determined its latitude with precifion. has render-
ed an important fcrvice to the navigators who go
coafting voyages from Macao to Manilla. Formerly
they followed, with confidence, the chart of Dalrym-
ple, which M. Daprès has alfo copied. Thefc two
authors, who are fo eftimable and accurate when they
conftruéled plans from their own materials, were not
always able to procure the bed accounts of indivi-
dual places, and the (Ituation of the Prata fhoal, that
of the weftem coaft of the iflnnd of Luconia, and of
the bay of Manilla, are totally undcferving of con-
fidence. As I was defirous to make the illand of
Luconia, in lat. 17**, in order to pafs to the noilh-
ward of the bank of Bulinao, I ranged along the
Pratas as near as poflible, and even, at midnight,
pafled over the point it occupies on the chart of M.
Daprès, who has extended this dans:erous fhoal 25
miles too far to the fouthward. The pofition he
has afîigned to the banks of Bulinao, Manfiloq, and
Mirabella, are not more exa^l. An ancient cuflom
has taught feamen they have nothing to fear in mak-
ing their land fall to the northward of 17°, and this
obfervation has appeared fufFicient to the governors
of Manilla, who have not, during two centuries,
found a fingle moment's leifure to fend out a few
fmall fhips to reconnoitre thefe dangers, or even to
determine their latitude, together with their diflancc
from Luconia, which we made on the 15th February,
in 18° 14^ We flattered ourfelves we fhould then
only have to run down the coaft with north eaflerly
winds as far as the entrance of the bay of Manilla ;
but the monfoons did not extend along the land»
where the wind was variable between N. W. and S.W.
for many days. The currents alfo fet to the north-
ward at the rate of a mile an hour, and till the 19th
S 4 . February^
ib.
iu; .,;
f ti
î^64 LA pékouse's voyage [1787,
February, we did not advance one league a day.
At length the north wind freihening, we failed along
tl>e Illoco coall, at the diftance of two leagues, and
faw a fmall two mafted veflel in the port of Santa
Cruz, probably taking in a cargo of rice for China.
It was impoflible for us to make any of our beaiings;
coincide with the chart of M. Dapres, but our own
charts enable us to give the direélion of this coafl,
which is very little known, though much frequented^
We doubled cape Bulinao on the 20th, and on the
2 111 made point Capones, bearing eail, djreélly in
the wind's eye. We made feveral boards to approach
it, and gain the anchoring place, which extends but
a league from the fhore. We faw two Spanilh (hips
which feemed afraid to open the entrance of the bay
of Manilla, from whence the eailerly winds blovy
with violence, and therefore kept under the lee of
the land We ftretched to the fouthward of the
ifland of Mirabella, and thé wind having chopped
about in the afternoon to the E^ S. E., we directed
oi^r courfe between this ifland and that of la Monhaji
entertaiping hopes of entering the north channel,
J^ut after having made feveral boards in the entrance
of it, which fcarcely exceeds half a league in width,
\ve perceived that the currents fet to the weftward
with confiderable ftrength, and irrefiftibly oppofed
our intention. We then determined to put jnto the
port of Mirabella, which lay a league to leeward, ixk
order there to wait either for a fairer wind, or a more
favourable current. We anchored there in J 8 fa-
thoms water over a muddy bottom, the village bear-»
ing N. W. by W., and the Hogs (los Puercos) S. by
E. 33^ S. This port is only open to the S. W. winds,
and there is fuch good holding ground, that I a.n of
opinion, flaps might ride there without the leaft dan-r
ger, duringthe monfoons whenever they prevail.
As we wanted wood, which I knew to be extreme-
ly dear at Manilla;, I determined to pafs 24 hours at
Mirabella^i
Iremc-
iurs at
ibella^
1787 .J HOUND THE WORLD, " 205
Mirabella, to take in a quantity. The next morningf
at day-break, we fent our long boats afhorc, with all
the carpenters of both (hips, and at the fame time, I
employed our jolly-boats in founding the bay, and
referved the reft of the crew with the barge, for a
fiftiing party in the creek near the village, which ap»
pcared fandy and commodious for hauling the feinc,
Put this was a mere illufion, and we found rocks there
and fuch a fiat bottom two cables' length from the
fliore, that it was impoflible to fifh there. We de-
rived no advantage from our labour, except fome
thorny fea-pies in good prefervation, which we added
to our collection of (hells. Towards noon I went
afhore at the village, which conlifts of about 40 houfe?
built of bamboo, covered with leaves, and raifed
about four feet above the ground. Thefe houfos are
floored with fmall bamboos, laid at a diftance from
each other, fo as to give thefe huts the appearance of
bird cages. They are afcended by a ladder, and I
do not believe all the materials of a houfe, including
the roof, weigh 200 pounds.
Oppofite to the principal ftreet is a large edifice of
hewn ftone, but now almoft entirely ruined, whercj
however, we faw two brafs guns at the windows,
which ferve as embrafures. We learned that this ruin
was the curate's houfe, thechurCh,and the fort, though
thefe n^mes had not intimidated the Moors of the
fouthernmoft Philippine Iflands, who in 1760 had
fcized it, burned the village, fet fire to the fort, which
they deftroyed, as well as the church and the parli^n-
age houfe, made (laves of all the Indians who had
not time to fly, and went off with their captives
without the icaft moleftation. This event fo terrified
the colony, that they dare not novy apply to any fpe-
cies of induftry. Almoft all the land is uncultivated,
and this pariih is fo poor, that we could only purchafe
a dozen fowls and a fmall pig. The curate Ibid us a
yovmg ox_,, at the famq time aliuring us, it was an
eighth
*iA
1 i!
i- '
265 LA PEROÛSfE's voyÀGfe [l787,
eighth part of the only herd in the parifh, the lands
of which are ploughed by buffaloes.
This pried was a young Indian mulatto, who care-
lefs of its condition, inhabited the ruin I have de-
scribed, a few earthen pots and a truckle bed com-
pofing the whole of his furniture. He informed us,
that his parifli contained 200 perfons, of both fcxes
and of all ages, who on the leaft alarm, take refuge in
the woo^ls to efcape the Moors, who continue to
make defcents on the ifland, and are fo audacious,
and their enemies fo little on their guard, that they
often penetrate to the head of the bay of Manilla.
During the fhort ftay we afterwards made at Cavita,
fcven or eight Indians were carried ofFin their canoes,
within a league of the entrance of the harbour. We
were aflured that paflage boats from Cavita to Ma-
tiilla were often taken by thcfe fame Moors, though
the paflage is nearly the fame, in all rcfpeéts, as that
from Breft to Landerneau by fea. They perform
thefe expeditions in very light row-boats, and the
Spaniards oppofe to them a flotilla of galleys, which
arc very bad failcrs, and have never taken any of
•^bcm.
The next officer to the curate is an Indian, who
bears the pompous title of Alcalde, and enjoys the
fupreme diftin<£lion of carrying a filver headed cane.
He appears to cxercife a high authority over the
Indians, none of whom could fell us a fowl, till he
granted hispcrmiflion, and fixed the price. He alfo
poflèflèd the fatal privilege of felling for account of
the government, tobacco for fmoaking, of which the
Indians make :i very great and almofl: continual con-
fumption. This monopoly has only been eftabliflied
within a few years, and the poorcft of the people can
fcarcely bear its opprefl[ion. It has already given
birth to fevcral revolts, and I fliould not be furprifed,
if it fliould one day produce efteéls fimilar to thofe of
the tax^s on tea and ftamps in North Amepica. Wç
• ... faw
*4
1787.] ROUND THE WORLD.' ^6f
faw at the prieft's three fmall antelopes, which he in4
tended for the Governor of Manilla, and which hé
refufed to fell us. Nor, had we made the purchafb^
could we have hoped to preferve them, as thefe little
animals are very delicate, and do not here exceed the
fize of a large rabbit. Both the male and female are
precifely the flag and hind in miniature.
In the woods our fportfmen obferved the moft
charming birds, variegated with the moft brilliant
colours: but thefe forefts are impenetrable, on ac-
count of the Iifi?ieSf which climb and interweave
among the trees. Their excurfion, therefore, was
not very produ6live, as they could only (hoot uport
the fkirts of the wood. We purchafed in the village
{omç, Jtahhed turtle-doves ; a name originating from a
red mark upon their breaft, exaélly refembling a
wound made by a knife.
At length we re-embarked at dulk, and made every
preparation fpr getting under way the next day. Onfe
of the two Spanifh fhips we had feen on thé 23d, at
Point Capones, had like ourfelves put into Mirabella,
to wait for more moderate weather. I fent to the
Captain to aik for a pilot, when he fent me his boat-
fwain, an old Indian, who did not infpire me witU
much confidence. I agreed, however, to give him
15 piaftrcs to carry us to Cavita, and on the 25th at
day-break we got under fail, and flood through the
fouth channel, the old Indian afliiring us it would be
in vain to attempt that to the northward, where the
currents always fet to the wellward. Though the
diftance from the harbour of Mirabella to that of Ca-
vita is only feven leagues, we were three days making
this little run, and came to an anchor every night in
the bay, in a good bottom of mud. We had here an
opportunity to obferve that M. Daprès's plan is very
inaccurate, the ifland of Fraïle, and that of Cavallo,
which form the entrance of the fouth channel, being
Jjadly laid down there, and in a word the whole is ^
mer§
4
• i-
9/l9 LA VJ&R0Utt*8 VOTAOE [}7^7»
OMr^tiiTuiPiQr errors. But we (hould have done better,
4)fe||. td follow that guides than our Indian pilot, who
pfiaHy run us aground, on the bank of St.- Nicholas,
1^ perliVlcid in. (landing on to the fouthward, not-
Vtth(b|;iding-,aiy reprefeuiations, and we (hoaled our
ntfttc^ in 1^^ than a minute from. 17 to foup fathoms.
I immediately, talked, and I am convinced, we fhould
^m^ toufched» had weiibaod on a piilol (hot farther.
Tbfii vi$tCK iSrfo fmoQtK inthia bay, that there is not
th<) leaft appearance oC the ihoals ; a iing^e obferva.T
tH»», hQWQveir, wilt render it perfedbly eaAr to work
V^t» it Is you fi^uft alwayakeep the ifknd of )a Monha
9if(Mi win): the, north channel of the iiland of Mirâ>
\Mtkt aiMtipuit about aa foon as thiaiHand begins to be
tfmtJn* At, length on the 28th we anchored in the
baci^puf qf Cavita^ in three ^thorns water oyer 9
muddy bottom, two cables' lengifc from the town. \
^^ rOur,'i;^f) flpmMacaoto Cayita was 23 days, and
lKti|ld h^ife beerv much longer, had we. conformed to
^eiQuftoiT^ ^f) ^^6 old Portuguefe and Spaniûi navi-
g^tQ»ç», widr perfifted ioi paiSng to the northward of
HwPrata-^^al.
.^
»<
/ I
CHAK
S.!\- -,,,:.
[1787.
5 better,
lot, who
Nicholas,
•d, not-
ilcd our
athoms.
sihould
farther,
e is not
sbferva^
0 work
Monha
fMirâ.
ns to be
1 in the
oyer a
tawn. , \
lys, and
rmed to
ÙI navir
ward of
i ■■■' r^
<;.
WlT.
h,
\ \ s.
I »-'
>(,
''H"
/*■-?%
',^Ki\,^
.^'
- iifh^ifcilWlilll' ' ■
1787.]
HOVKD THE WOKLO.
000
CHAP. XV.
ARRIVAL AT CAVITA — MANNER OF OUR lLECBl>TlOïr
BY THE COMMANDANT ^M. BOUTIN, LIEUTENJINT
D£ VAISSEAU, IS DISPATCHED TO THE OOVBRlfOB
GENERAL AT MANILLA — RECEPTION OP. THIS OFFI*
CER— "DETAILS RELATIVE TO CAPITA AND ITS AR*
SENAL DESCRIPTION OF MANILLA AND ITS ENVI-
RONS—ITS POPULATION^-— DISADVANTAGES RB-
SULTIN6 FROM THE GOVERNMENT THBRE ESTA-
BLISHED— PENANCES, AT WHICH WE WERE PRE-
SENT, DURING PASSION WEEK IMPOSTS ON TO-
BACCO— INSTITUTION OP THE NEW PHILIPPINS
COMPANY REFLECTIONS ON THAT ESTABLISH»
MENT DETAILS RELATIVE TO THE SOUTHERN-
MOST PHILLIPPINE ISLANDS — CONTINUAL WAR»
WITH THE MOORS, OR MAHOMETANS, .^P THBSB
ISLANDS STAT AT MANILLA MILITARY STATU
OF THE ISLAND OP LUCONIA.
WE bad fcarcely caft anchor at the entrance o^
the harbour of Cavita, when an officer came on
board from the commandant of that place, to requeft
us not to attempt any communication with the (hore,
till orders arrived from the governor-general, to whom
he intended to difpatch a courier, as foon as he was
informed of our objeét in putting in there. We an-
fwered, that we wifhed to procure provifions, and
permiflion to refit our (hips, in order, as fpeedily
as poffible, to continue our voyage ; but before the
officer left us, the commandant of the bay* arrived
at Manilla, whence they had defcried our (hips. Ho
informed us notice had been received there of our ar*
* The commandant of the bay is, in Spain, the chief of thé
cuftom- houle officer», and hat a military racut. At Mliaiiia be hal
tbat of captain.
rival
'SiàxTan/irstma
y
13
^ync«iis
Chabt
//r/» P if c o V I? ri es />?
Ibe Sca.v of
CïilNAundTARTARY
from
Manilla to AvatschaH.iv
rra<
vLenoitiiiif East o( l'a ris
140
li
rw
\10
- X/
f
SJ^O LA^PÉROUSE's VOYAGE [itSfi
rival in the Chinefe feas, and that letters from the
Spanifti minifter had announced us to the governor-
general feveral months before. This officer addedj
that the feafon admitted of our anchoring before
Manilla, where we fhould meet with every accom-»
modation, united with every relbiirce, that could
poffibly be procured in the Philippine Iflands : but
we were lying at anchor before an arfenal, within a
mulket-fhot of the (hore, and we were fo impolite
as to acquaint this officer, that nothing could com-
penfate tbefe advantages. He readily permitted M.
Boutin, one of my lieutenantSj to go in his boat, to
give an account of our arrival to the governor-ge-
neral, and requeft him to give orders that our va-
rio.us wants might be fupplied before the 5th of
April, the ultimate plan of our voyage requiring
that our two fliips (hould fail the 10th of the fame
month. Senor Bafco, brigadier de la armada^ and go-«
ver nor -general of Manilla, gave the officer I fent to
him a handfome reception, and iffiied the moft pofi-
tive orders that nothing (hould retard our depar-»
lure.
He alfo wrote to the commandant of Cavita, to
permit us to have free communication with that
place, and procure us every affiftance and accom-
modation in his power. The return of M. BoutiUj
charged with difpatches from Senor Bafco, rendered
us all citizens of Cavita, and our veflels were fo near
the (hore that we could land and return on board every
minute. We found various houfes wherein to re-
pair our fails, fait our provifions, build two boats<
and accommodate our naturalifts and geographical
engineers; and the commandant very kindly lent us
his own to fet up our obfervatory. We felt as per^
feélly at our cafe as if we had been in the coun-
try, and found in the market and the arfenal the
fame refources, as in the beft ports of Europe.
Cavita, which lies three leagues to the S. W. of
Manilla^
ii».,
. of
ilia.
V. >m
^'m-
.■'- 0%
*^-v
■>)\
■M
%..
Iji^yNI^THB WORLSi^t Ofl^
'im'^^m^^». W^j^jCçxqCidcfaiiûe place ^
s PhU|p|!|||is mand^, as in Europe, the great
iU$» 9s1t W^e, the fmall- ones, and there
ûp('^fijllm ^itmmandant of the arfcnal, a
"" pt, two port lieutenants, the
lytn, ] 50 ibldiers in garrifony.
1^1^ b#Piing to that corps.
^0lhf iiiçabitauts are metis*, (a fpecies oC
or It^diaus, belonging to the arfenals;!
together, with their families, which are
fjSfy nui?i9rous, a population of about 4000
divided between the town and the fuburb
There are two pariihes, and three mo-
r men,' «jach; occupied by two eccleliaftics,
Irty might eafily be accommodated. The
had formerly a very fine houfe, of which
^^e trading company, eflablifhed by the govern-
p|||^ obtiained^ pofleiîîon. In general, no-
<ng j^àt be feen but rujns ; the ancient edifices of
iJiÉ^pitielerted or ©copied by Indians, who never
fipir:i|f«|^ Î and Cayfl^ the fécond town in the
]^n^pP^é lÂands, and j^pital of a province of the
iinié'iliutié, is now only % paltry village, uninhabited
Sl^ibià]^, j^ept the military officers, and thofb
the civ^a«||iiniftratioii; But if the town prcfents
'l^j^fîjl^ieifli^; of ruins,; i^^ not lb with the port,
"SlIiÉill'^enor Ber brigadier de la armada , who
ia-^iÉ^ittî^ there, has eûablifhcd an order and dif-
çip^\% which excite regret that his talents are en:
çd ^n fo confined a theatre. All his workmen ;i<\"
In^^ns^ and he has precifely the fame kind of wori. -
0)0^ as thofe of our arfenals in Europe. This ofii
<a[§j^^tvho ifi of the fame military rank as the gover-
canliders nothing too trifling for his
.-• "ï^^j^niard» aad Portugiiefe have different names for the
^^ô|^li#|rses of confanguinity with blacks. The firft of thefe
ittw^âlNéèif'VwhM^^^i^ the half- black, or immediate offupring
lÀ %«r|^tt nk^ .«ri^ • bUck woman. — Tranjlàtor's note.
' mh^- ■' '■ ■"• ■ attention ;.
•,'t
m
-272 tA >éROt9È*k VbtA6» fl/êf.
attentîdti; ahâ 'his cdnTériàti&ti ûohvifiiféi ilft^ lliit
nothing Was aboVé thé fpherë ôf his khowleaj^-Mb
granted every thttt^ We afkéd ôf him with Ihe ^itM»^
las ky
la
^ tan^e âtrf m0f ém^Héè^
ôvei'haul all ôarri|gîfig;àM #^ ouflôWèft»^^
This precaution involved lit» 1^ of tittte, fiS We
ivere obliged to^t'lft léaltiÉ «ndfifth fb^ mprèVi-
Ûotis, a lift ôrwhfe» W^ h«d fMfdïttèJd t<i the in-
tendattt of MsiMi^.- ^
The letîcrtid d^ after obt- airival at€aV|^ I «ih-
barked, t^g^thét Vith M. âe Lang^ fbr 41^ ^kï^
accomjjanied by feveral ofllcers. We wiif twô^
hours and a half in making this trip in dl|é boatd/i
which were armed v^ith foldiers, on accdulvi ôf th^
Moors, who frequently înfeft the bay of MâitlMllw
Our firft vint was to the governor, Wito lisèpt ttô W
ditincr, atid fent the cajptaih of his guat^s fo côiiv
duel us to the archbifhop, the intôndàfe[it> i|^d tl^
different otdors. This was not one of Ûit liatl* ft*
tiding days ôf our voyage. The heat Wa* «lire^i^
âfld we were on foot, in a town where th6 ôitiiSiJSfit
never go out but in a carriage. lïere th^e we*^
none to be hired as at Batavia ; and had not M.
Sebir, a French merchant, who had by accident
heard of our arrival at JVlanilia^ fent us his chia^
riot, we Ihould have been obliged to decline iMff^
of the vifits we intended to make.
The town of Manilla, including the fUbuibé, i»
Tcry confiderabie. Its population is computed at
38^000, in whi«jh are included foàroëly 1000 or^
1200
\^
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d..
1787'] ROUND THE WORLD. 2/3
1200 Spaniards; the reft are Metis^ Indians, or..
Chinefe, who cultivate all the arts, and puribe every
ipecies of induftry. The leaft opulent ot the Spanim
families keep one or two carriages, or more, and a
pair of very fine horfes, which cofl thirty piaflres,
and their keep and coachman^s wages fix piaflres a
month.. Thus in no country is the expence of a
carriage more trifling or more necefîàry. The envi-
rons of Manilla arc enchanting. The mofl beautiful
river meanders through them, branching into various
channels, of which the two principal end in that ce-
lebrated lagune or lake of Bahia, which lies fevcn
leagues up the country, and is bordered by above
a hundred Indian villages, fituated in the midfl of
the mofl fertile country.
Manilla is built on the fhore of the bay of the
fame name, which is more than twenty-five leagues
in circumference. It lies at the mouth of a river
navigable as far as the lake from which it rifes, and
is perhaps the mofl delightfully fituated city in the
world. Provifions of all kinds are in the greatefl
abundance there, and extremely cheap ; but cloath-
ing, European hardware and furniture bear an ex-
ccfïively high price. The want of competition, to-
gether with prohibitions and refl;raints of every kind
laid on commerce, render the produ<5lions and mer-
chandize of India and China, at leafl, as dear as in
Europe ; and this colony, although the various
impofts bring near 800,000 piaflres annually into
the treafury, cofls Spain 1,500,000 livres befides, ^
which are fent there every year from Mexico. The
immenfe pofîefîîons of the Spaniards in America have
not admitted of the government efîentially direi^ing
its attention to the Philippines, which refemble the
eflates of thofe great lords, whofe. lands lie unculti- '.
vated, though capable of making the fortunes o( ]
many families. . -^ ,
I fhould.not hefitate to afïèrt, that a very great
Vol. I. T ' nation.
27-* l'A pâiiousi'i voYAor [1787*
natioiij poflifcflèd of no other colony than the Phi-
Hppme Iflands, and who ihould eilablifh the beH^
TOveminent of which they are capable, mieht behold
all the European fettleraents in Africa and Americ»
without envy.
Three millions of inhabitants people thefe various
iflands, of whom that of Luconia contains near one:
third. Thefe people appear in no refpe<51: inferior to
thofe of Europe. They cultivate the earth like men
of underdanding, are carpenters, joiners, fmiths,
gdd^iths, weavers, malbns, &c. I have walked
through their vilfTages, and found tliem kind, hofpi^
table, and communicative ; and though the Spauiards
fpeak of and treat them with contempt, I perceived
tW the vices they attributed to the Indians, ought
rather to be imputed to the government they have
themfclves cftabKfhed. It is well known, that the
avidity for gold, and the fpirit of conquell, with
which both the Spaniards and Portuguefe were ani-
mated two centuries ago, induced adventurers of
thofe nations to traverfe the different feas and i (lands
of both hemifpheres, with no otlier view than to
fbarch for that precious metal.
Some gold fanded rivers, and the vicinity of the
fpice iflands, were no doubt the motives of the firfl
{fettlcments in the Philippines ; but their produce did
not corre^ond with the hopes that were entertained.
To thefe avaricious motives fucceeded the enthufiafm
of religion. A great number of milîionaries, of every
order of Monks, were font there to preach Chrifli-
anity, and the harvcft was fo abundant, that thefe:
iflands foon contained eight or nine hundred Chrif-
tians. Had this zeal been tempered by a little phi-
lofophy, that fyftem was doubtlefs beft adapted to
fecure the conquefVs of the Spaniards, and render
this fcttlement ufeful to the mother country. But
their only object: was to make Chriftians, not citir-
aens. The colony was then divided into parifhes.
and
1787 J ROUND THE WORLD. 275
end fubjedled to the moil frivolous and extravagant
ceremonies. Every fault, every pretended fin, was pu-
ni(hed by a whipping, the abfence from prayej and
from mafs were taxed, and the puniihment infliétcd
both on mon and women at the church door, by order
of the curate. Their holidays, their religious ooa-
fraternities, their private devotions, confumc a very
confiderable portion of time ; and as in hot climates
the imagination takes a itill loftier flight than in
more temperate regions, I have, in paflion week,
beheld penitents in niafks, dragging chains through
the ftreets, with their legs and loins furrounded with
a girdle of thorns ; and in this condition, receive at
tveiy Jiation, before the church door, or before the
oratories, feveral flrokes of the whip, in the way of
difcipline, and in a word, fubmit to equally rigorous
penances with the faquirs of India. Thefe pradticeSi
more calculated to form enthufiafts than to infpire
true devotion, are now prohibited by the Archbifhop
of Manilla j but it '- highly probable, fome confef»
fors flill recommend, if not enjoin them.
This monaftic difcipline not only enervates thô
mind of thefc people, naturally inadlive through the
influence of the climate, and the fmaJl number of
their wants, but perfuading them that life is but a
journey, and the good things of it unprofitable,
combines with the impoiïibility of felling the fruits
of the earth for a price that would compenfate their
labour, to paralyfe their induftry. Thus, as fboft
as the inhabitants have the quantity of rice, of fugar^
and of vegetables, necefîàry for their fubfiftance^
the fuperflux is of no value whatever. In fuch cir-
cumftances fugar has been fold for lefs than a half-
penny the pound, and rice remained upon the
ground without being reaped. It would be difHcult
for the mofl unenlightened fociety to form a {yûem
of government more abfurd, than tliat which has
regulated thefe colonies for the two laft centuries^,
T 2 The
276 tA PÉROUSK^S VOYAGE [l787.
The port of Manilla, which ought to be free and
open to all nations, has been, till very lately, (hut
again (I Europeans, and open only to a few Moors,
Americana, and the Portnguefe of Goa. The go-
vernor is inverted with the mod dcfpotic authority :
and the uludiencîa, which ought to moderate his
power, is totally impotent before the reprefentative
of the SpaniOi government. In point offaél, though
not by law, it lies irt his bi'caft to admit or to con-
fifcatc the merchandize of foreigners, whom the hope
of advantage may have brought to Manilla, and who
would not expole themfelves to this rifk, but on the
probability of a very great profit, ultimately ruinous
to the confumcrs. No liberty whatever is enjoyed
there. Inquifitors and Monks dirc6l the confcienccs
of the people, the didors overlook all the affairs of
individuals, and the governor regulates the moil
innocent amufements : even an cxcurfion up the
country, or a converfazione, are within his jurifdic-
tion. In a word, the fincft and mod charfning
country in the world, is certainly the laft a lover of
liberty would chufe for his reudence. I faw at
Manilla, that worthy, that virtuous governor of the
Marianas, Senor Tobias, rendered too famous for his
own repofe by the Abbé Raynal. I have feen him
perfecuted by the Monks, who, by reprefenting him
as impious, even alienated the affections of his wife,
and induced her to demand a reparation from him,
that (he might not live with this pretended reprobate;
while every fanatic applauded her conduct. Senor
Tobias is lieutenant-colonel of the regiment that
forms the garrifon of Manilla ; and is acknowledged
to be the beft officer in the country. Yet the go-
vernor has decreed that his falary, which is very con-
iiderable, fhoul ) be paid to his pious wife, leaving
him only 26 piaftres per month, for the fubfiftencc
of himfelf and his fbn. This brave officer, thus re-
duced to defpair, was waiting for a proper oppor-
tunity
•it,
1787 .J ROUND THE WORLD. TJ^
)t,unity to eïcnpc from this colony, in order to demand
juftice. There is a very wife, but unfortunately an
incffedlual law, vrhich ought to have moderated this
inordinate power, and by which every citizen is per-
mitted to profccute the ex-governor before hin fuc-
ceflbr. The latter is, however, interefted in juflifyine
fîvcry thipg his prcdccefTor is reproached with ; and
the citizen who is imprudent enough to complain, ia
expo fed to new and cncreafed injufticc.
The mod galling diftinéilons are eftablilhcd, and
fupported with the ilriiSlcft fevcrity. The number
jof horfes ufed in carriages is fixed for every rank,
and coachmen are bound to give precedence to the
fuperior number ; fo that the mere caprice of an oidor
may detain behind him a whole line of carriages,
that have the misfortune of travelling the fame road.
So many abufes in this government, fo many vex-
Mions that refult from it, have not however totally
deftroycd the advantages of the climate, and the
peafantry difplay an air of happincfs not to be found
m the villages of Europe. I'heir houfes are ad-
mirably neat, and (haded by fruit trees, which grow
fpontaneoufly. The tax paid by each mafter of a
fmall houfe, is very moderate, being limited to 5{
reals^ including the churph dues, which is received
))y the nation ^ all the bifhops, canons, and curates,
jbeing paid by the government. But they have efta-
jjliflied fome perquifites, which compenfate the Imall-
nefs of their (lipends.
A dreadful oppreffion has, however, of late year$
taken place, and threatens to deftroy the little en-
joyment allowed them. I mean the tax upon to-
bacco. Their paflion for fmoking this narcotic
is fo immoderate, that there is not a moment in
the day when either men or women have not a
fegar* in their mouth, and children fcarcely out of
* A feear (or cigarro) is a leaf of tobacco, rolled upj and fmoke4
in lieu of a pipe.'— /^V-wfifr £<///<ir.
T 3 their
ii
li!
à7S LA péouse's voyage * [1787.
their cradle contract the fame habit. The tobacco
of the Ifland of Luconia is the beft in Afia. Eyery
inhabitant cultivated it round his houfe for his own
confumption, and the fmall number of foreign fhips
that had permiflion to land at Manilla carried it to
every part of India.
A prohibitory law however has lately been promul-
gated, and the tobacco of each individual has been,
pulled up, and the cultivation of it limited to grounds
where it is grown for the benefit of the government.
The price has been fixed at half a piaftre per pound, ,
and though the confumption is diminifhed, the daily
pay of a workman is inadequate to procure tobacca
for himfelf and his family. All the inhabitants agree,
that a tax of two piaftres, added to the capitation
tax of thofe who are liable to it, would have produc-
ed to the revenue a fum equal to that of the fale of
tobacco, without giving birth to the diforders the
latter has produced. Infurrccftions have threatened
every corner of the ifland, troops have been employ-
ed to fupprefs them, and an army of cuftom-houfe
clerks and officers employed to prevent finuggling,
and to compel the confumers to apply to the nation-
al warehoufes. Several of thefe have been maflàcred,
though fpeedy vengeance was infiidled by the tribu-
nals, who pafs judgment on the Indians with much
fewer formalities than on the other citizens. There
flill remains however a leaven of revolt, in which the
leafl: fermentation might produce a formidable acti-
vity, and it is not to be doubted that an enemy who
might entertain projeéls of conquell: would find an
army of Indians ready to join their ftandard the mo-
ment they fet foot on the ifland, and furnifli them
with arms*. The picture that might be drawn of
the
♦ The Philippines, from their extent, their climate, and the qua-
lity of their foil, polTefs every means of producing al! the colonial
comnfiodities. I'hey are fiunilhed with the precious metals, and
iKpxi'^ ■ ■ '--• - their
1787.] ROUND TmS WORLD. ^ 279
the ftate of Manilla a few years hence would be very
clifFeront from its prefent condition, were the govem-
jnent of Spain to adopt a better conftitution for the
Philippine Illands. The foil is adequate to the mod
valuable produé\ion, 000,000 individuals of both
fexcs, who inhabit the ifland of Luconia, might be
encouraged to cultivate it, and the clinlate admits of
ten crops of filk, within the year, while that of China
fcarcely affords a profpeél of two.
their fituation is moft advantageous for trading with India and
China. An European nation, if cftabliflied there on a folid foun-
<lation, and poflefiing a port for an entrepot and refrefiiment on the
coafts of Africa, of Madagafcar, or in the neighbouring feas, might
abandon their pofTelfions in America without the fnnalleft rehic-
♦ance. This important property appears however not to be jurfil)r
appreciated by the Spanifli government. Their apparent inditfe-
lence arifes from the difficulty of fupporting the immenfe weight
of their pofleffions in the two hfimil'pheres, and the impofllbility of
their giving to ail of them the fpecies of activity calculated to draw
from them all the aid th. mother country would have a right to
expe{\.
The Philippines therefore are not only extremely likely to be co-
veted by the other maritime powers of Europe, but if the enemies
of Spain do not take advantage of the weak ftatL ia which they lan-
guifii, they will one dav become a prey to the Moors.
VVhen the metallic nches and vegetable produiflions of the South
Sea Iflands are better known, when new tracks, opened to com-
njerce and navigation fliall admit of a C.xft and fpeedy communica-
tion to the very centre of thiî Tea, the importance of the Philip-
pines will be perceived. The Spaniards, who already have a fet-
tkment in the Bafliee Iflands, will foon have another on the Sand-
wich Iflands, although Hying fomewhfit to the northward of the
track of the galleons ; and their poflelfions, if fuflfeted to encreafe,
will form a kind of chain embracing the whole earth. The Ruf-
fians will then difcover all the advantages they may derive from
the commerce of the South Sea, and ail their maritime views will
be direded to the ports of Kamtfchatka.
This ftate of things however will only continue till the energy
of the nations who people that part of the globe Ihall fet bounds to
this impolitic extenfion of territory; till the moment when they
Ihall relume their natural rights, by driVing out all the Europeans,
in order to carry on a free trade with every nation. But that period
15 ftill very diftant, and before it arrives the Spaniards, as Kaynai
has predicted, weakened by polTeffions, too numerous to be effeftu-
ally protefted, will be fuccelTively driven from their multiplied fet-
tlcments by fome more powerful uatipn.— /V^rrri Editor.
T 4 Cotton,
f
280 LA pérouse's voyage [1787
Cotton, indigo, the fugar-cahe, p.nd cofîee, grow
without cultivation around the footfleps of the inha-
bitants, who defpife them, and every thing indicates
that even fpiccs would not be inferior to thofe of the
Moluccas. A perfe6lly free trade for all nations
would enfure a market that would encourage every
fpecies of cultivation, and a moderate duty on all the
exports would in a very few years be adequate to all
the expenccs of the government. Religious tolera-
tion granted lo the Chincfe, together with fome
other privileges, would prefently draw 100,000 in-
habitants from the eaftern provinces of that empire,
driven away by the tyranny of their mandarines. If
to thefe advantages the Spaniards added the conqueil
of Macao, their fettlements in Alia, and the advan-
tages they would derive from them, would undoubt-
edly exceed thofe of the Dutch in the Moluccas and
at Java. The eflablifhment of the new Philippine
company feems to indicate, that the attention of the
government is at length dire6led towards this part
of the world, and they have adopted, though only in
part, the fyflem of Cardinal Alberoni. That minify
ter perceived that Spain, hav'i.g no manufactures, it
would be more politic to enrich the nations of Afia
with her metals than thofe of Europe, who were her
rivals, and whofe commerce (he nourifhed while ffie
augmented their ftrength, by confuming the obje6ls
of their induftry. He was therefore of opinion, that
Manilla ought to be an open mart for all nations,
and was defirous to invite the fhip-ovvncrs of the va-
rious provinces of Spain to go and load at this mar-
ket with the cotton or other manufactures of China
and the Indies, that were necefîhry for the confump-
tion of the colonics and of the metropolis.
Cardinal Alberoni however is well known to have
pofTefled more genius than fcience ; and though he
was pretty thoroughly acquainted with Europe, he
had not the fmallefl idea of the affairs of Afia. The
o
fump-
have
igh he
', he
The
)bjeéls
17 87. J ROUND THE WORLD. 261
objeéts of the greateft confumption, both for Spain
and her colonies, arc thofe of the Coromandcl coaii
and of Bengal ; which it is certainly as eafy to carry
to Cadiz as to Manilla, the latter being (ituated at a
great diftance from that coaft, and its feas fubje(5t to
monfoons, which expolc navigators to lofles and
conliderable delays. Thus the difference in price
. between Manilla and India rauft be at leaft 50 per
<;ent : and if to this price are added the immenfe ex-
pences of outfits in Spain for fo long a voyage, it
will be evident that the produce of India, which
comes by the way of Manilla, muft be fold at very
high prices in the part of Europe under the Spanifh
dominion, flill dearer in their American colonies, and
that the nations, who, like England, Holland and
France carry on this trade direélly, will always be able
to fmuggle them in there with the greateft advantage.
It is however on this defedive fyftem that the foun-
dation of the new company has been laid, and, which
is ftill worfe, accompanied by reftriélions and impofts
rendering it far inferior to the projeél of the Ita-
lian minifter — fuch in fhort, that it appears impofii-
blc for this company to fublift four years more, al-
though its privileges have in a manner fvvallowed up
the whole commerce of the nation with her Ameri-
can colonies. The pretended fair of Manilla, where
the new Gsmpany is obliged to provide itfelf with
cargoes, is only open to the Indian nations, as if they
were afraid to augment the competition of fellers, or
to obtain the cotton manuft>6lurcs of Bengal at too
low a price.
It may alfo be remarked, that thefe pretended
Moorifli, or American (hips from Goa. only bring
Englifh goods ; and as thefe modes of difguifing them
are attended with additional expences, this falls ulti-
mately on the confumer. I'hus ihe difference be-
tween the price in India, and that of Manilla, no
longer continues at 50 per cent;, but has rifen to 6o
* and
282 LA PÉROUSE*S VOYAGE [1787.
âhd even to 80. With this error is combined, that of
the exchifive right of the Company, to purchaie the
produ6lions of the illand of Luconia, whofeinduftry
not being excited by a competition of buyers, will
ever- continue in the inert (late, to which it owes its
infignificance for the two lail centuries. Many other
authors have fpoken of the civil and military govern^
ment of Manilla, I therefore thought it my bufinefs,
to make the reader acquainted with that city, under
the new point of view, which the eflablilhrxient of this
new Company has perhaps rendered interelling, par-
ticularly in an age, when all men who are lO hold an
elevated rank in the ftate, ought to undcrlland the
theory of commerce.
The Spaniards have fome fettlements in the various
iflands to the fouthward of Luconia ; but they feem
onlv to be on fufferance there, and their iituation in
Luconia does not induce the inhabitants of the other
iflands to acknowledge tlieir fovereignty. On the
contrary, they arc always at war with them. Thefc
pretended Moors, of whom I have already fpoken,
and who infeft their coafts, making very frequent
defcents, and carrying into captivity the Indians of
both fexes, who are under the Spanifh yoke, are the
inhabit'ants of Mindanao, Mindoro, and Panay. They
acknowledge no authority but that of their rcfpeétive
princes v*?ho are called Sultans, with as little pro-
priety, at> thefe people arc called Moors. In faél
they are Malays, and have embraced Mahomctifm,
nearly at the fame period that Chriftianity began to
be preached at Manilla. The Spaniards have deno-
minated them Moor», and their fovercigns Sultans, in
confequcnce of the identity of their religion, with that
of the nations of the fame name in Africa, who have
for fo many centuries been at enmity with Spain.
The only military eftablifhment of the Spaniards, in
the fouthcrn Philippines, is that of Saraboangan in
the ifland of Mindanao, where they keep a garrifon
of
j.>
lave
I)ain.
in
Bi in
ifon
of
17 87 .J BQUND THE WORLD. 283
pf 150 men, under the command of a mlltary Go«
vernor, who is appointed by the Governor General
of Manilla, In the other iflands are only a few vil^
lages, defended by bad batteries, ferved by militia,
and commanded by.Alcaydes, nominated by the Go-
vernor General, but eligible from all clafies of citi-
zens, who are not foldiers. The real mafters of the
various iflands, where thefe Spanifh villages are fili-
ated, would foon deftroy them, had they not a very
important intereft in their prefervation. Thefe
Moors, though at peace when at home in their own
iflands, fit out veflfels to commit piracies on the coaft
of Luconia, and the Alcaydes purchafe a very great
ni*mber of the Haves made by thefe pirates, which
faves them the trouble of carrying their prifonera
to Batavia, where they would obtain a much lower
price. Thefe particulars pourtray the weaknefs of
the government of the Philippines, better than all the
reafonings of the various navigators, who have vifited
them. The reader will perceive, that the Spaniards
are not fi:rong enough to prote6l the commerce of
their vaft polîèflSons, and all the benefits conferred
by them on the natives, have hitherto had no "bther
obje6!, than their happinefs in a future life.
We ftaid but a few hours at Manilla. The Go-^
vernor having taken leave of us immediately after
dinner, to take his fiefta or afternoon nap, we were
at liberty to vifit M. Sebir, who rendered us the mofi:'
efîèntial fervices during our ftay in the bay of Ma-
nilla. This French merchant, the moft enlightened
of cur countrymen, whom I have met with in the feas
of China, had imagined, the new Philippine Com-
pany, and the intimacy of the cabinets of Madrid and
Verlaillcs, would procure him the means of extend-
ing his fpeculations, which were cramped by the re-
eftablifiiment of the French Eaft India Company.
He had confequently fettled all his affairs at Canton,
and at Macao, where he had been many years eftab-
lilhed.
284 LA P£ROUSB*S VOYAGE [l^S^/
liflicd, and had formed a houfe of trade at Manilla,
where he alfo folicited the decifion of a very important
law-fuit, in which one of his friends was concerned f
but he already perceived, that the prejudices againft
foreigners, and the defpotifm of the adminidration,
would be infuperable obftacles to the accomplilh-
ment of his vvilhes, and at the time of our arrival, he
propofed rather tp wind up aU his affairs, than to en-
ereafe their ramifications,
We returned tp our boats at fix in the evening,
and got on board our (hips at eight ; but being appre-
henfive, that while employed in repairing our fhipç
at Cavita, the bifcuit and flour contraàors, &c.
would make us the yi<5lims of the ina6iivity, fo gene-
ral among merchants of that nation, L thought it ne-
ceilary, to order an officer to refide at Manilla, and
every day to vifit the various agents, to whom the
Intendant bad introduced us. I made choice of
M. de Vaujuas, one of the lieutenants of the Aftro-
labe. That officer, however, foon wrote me, that his
Hay at Manilla was ufelcfs, as Don Gonzalp Car-
yagnal, Intendant of the Philippines, was (o careful
of our intereft, that he went round every day himiclf,
to watch the progrefs of the workmen employed for
our (hips, and that his vigilance was equally aélive,
as if he had been h imfelf engaged in the expedition.
His obliging and ready attention, demand a public
teftimony of our gratitude: liis cabinet of natural
hiftory was thrown open to our naturalifi:s, to whom
he prefented a part of his colleclHiion, in the animal,
getable, and mineral kingdoms, and at the moment of
our departure^ I received from him a complete double
colle'Slion of (hells found in the Philippine feas.
Thus his dciire to ferve us, extended to every thing
that Kould be interefling to us.
A week after our arrfval at Manilla, we received a
letter from M. Elfl:ockenftrom, the principal fuper-
eargo of t^e Swedifh Ea(l India Company, apprifing
,.... ,. us.
us,
17870 itOUND THE WOnLDi ISS
US, he had fold our otter Ikiris for 10,000 piaftres, and
giving us permilïïon to draw for that fum. I was
very dcfirous to procure this money at Manilla, in
order to diftribute among the failors, Who having left
Macao without receiving it, were apprehcnfive their
hopes would never be realized. M. Sebir had at that
time no remittance to make to MaCao, and we had
recourfe to Don Gonzalo, to whom every thing of
this nature was entirely foreign, but who made ufe of
the influence his amiable chara<51er procured him,
over the various merchants of Manilla, to induce them
to difcount our bills : and the produce was divided
among the failoi's previous to our departure.
The great heats of Manilla now began to produce
fome bad effets upon our crews,andfome of the failors
were attacked with colics, which were not, however,
attended with ferious confeqnertces. But Mefîi^. de
Lamanon and Daigremont, who had brought fome
iymptoms of dyfentery from Macao, caufed probably
by a checked perfpiration, in lieu of finding relief on
fhore,grew worfc there, infomuch that M. Daigremont
was given over the 2J^d day after our arrival, and dieA
on the 25th. This was the fécond perfon who died on
board the Aftrolabe. We had not experienced any
limilar misfortune on board the Boulîble,, although,
perhapjs, in general, our crew had enjoyed an inferior
flate of health to that of the Aflrolabe. It mufl,
however, be obferved, that the fervant who died dur-
ing our run from Chili to Eafter Ifland, was con-
fûmptive when he came on board, and M. de Langie
only yielded to the requeft of his mafler, who flat-
tered himfelf that the fea air and warm climates would
cfFe<5l his cure. As to M. Daigremont, in fpite of
his phyficians, and unknown to his friends and com-
panions, he tried to cure himfelf with burnt brandy,
pimento, and other medicines, which the moft robuft
could not have withftood ; and he fell a victim to
his own imprudence, and the dupe of the too high
opinion.
* ,.
286 LA péaOUSB's VlotAGÉ [l^&f»
Opinion he entertained of the firength of his con-
Ûitution.
On the 28th of March all our labours at CavitA
were iinifhed ; our boats built, our faiia repaired, the
rigging overhauled, our Ihips completely caulkedj
and our fait provifions barrelled up. This laft ope-
ration we were unwilling to entruft with the agents
at Manilla, as we knew the fait provilions of the gal-
leons never kept fweet three months ; and our con-
fidence in the method pradlifed by Captain Cook was
very great. A copy of the procefs, ufed by Captain
Cook, was therefore given to each falter, and we fu-
perintended this new fpeciesof labour ourfelves. We
had on board both fait and vinegar from Europe, and
we only purchafed pigs of the Spaniards, and thele
at a very moderate price.
The opportunities of communication between Ma-
nilla and China were fo frequent, that we received
news from Macao every week. By thcfe we learned,
with the greateft aftonifhment, the arrival of la Ré-»
folution under the command of M. d'Entrecafteaux,
and la Subtile frigate, under that of M. la Croix .
de Caftrics, in the river of Canton. Thefe fhips had
left Batavia when the N. E. monfoon was in full
force, had run to the eaftward of the Philippines,
coafted New Guinea, traverfed feas that are full of
fhoals, without even having a chart of them on board,
and after a navigation of 70 days, were at length ar-
rived at the mouth of the river of Canton, where they
anchored the day after our departure. The aftro-
nomical obfervations they made during this voyage
will be extremely important towards the knowledge
of thefe feas, always open to fhips that have miflèd
the monfoon ; and it is very aftonifhing, that our
Eaft India Company (hould make choice, for the com- .
mand of the ihip which loft its voyage this year, of a '
Captain who was totally ignorant of this track.
, At Manilla I received a letter from M. d'Entrecaf-
' < teaux.
1787.] ROUND THE WÔRt». ^^7
teaux, informing me of the motives of his voyage ;
and prefently after la Subtile frigate brought mc fur-
ther difpatches.
M. la Croix de Caftries, who had doubled the Cape
of Good Hope in company with the Calypfo, brought
us the news of Europe. But thefc news were dated
She 24tb of April, and we had an interval of a whole
ear to regret in unfatisfied curiofity. Nor had our
families and friends taken this opportunity to write
to us ; and in the ftate of tranquillity which Europe
enjoyed, our intereft in its political events was com-
paratively feeble, to that which agitated our individual
hopes and feai-s. It afforded us, however, an addi-
tional opportunity to convey letters to France. La
Subtile was fo well manned, as to permit M. la Croix
de Caftries partly to repair the lofs of foldiers and
officers we had fufFered in America. He transferred
to each of our (hips an officer and four men. M.
Guyet, enfeigne de vai/feauy came on board the Bouf-
fole, and M. de Gbbien, garde de la marine, on booi'd
the Aftrolabe. This recruit was very neccfîàry, as
we had eight officers lefs than at our departure from
France, including M. de Saint-Ceran, whofe impaired
ftate of health obliged me to fend him to the Ifle of
France, on board la Subtile, as all the furgeons de-
clared it impoffilale for him to continue the voyage. -
In the mean while our provilions were put on board
at the time we had previoufly fixed ; but Paffioa-
week, which fufpeods all bufinefs at Manilla, occa-
fioned fome delay in our individual wants, and I was
obliged to fix my departure for Eafter Monday : for
the N. E. monfoon being fliil very ftrong, a facrifice
of three or four days could not be injurious to our
expedition. On the 3d of April we got all our agro-
nomical inftruments on board. M. Dagelet had not,
fince our departure from France, met with a more
commodious fpot for afcertaining, with prccifion, the
rate of the time-keeper, No. 19, having ercded our
., obfervatory
288 LA pérouse's voyagé [1787",
ièrvatOfy in the Governor's garden, about 120 toifc*
from our (hips. The longitude of Cavjta, deduced
from a great number of lunar obfervations, was 118^
so' AQI' eaft*, and its latitude, taken with a quadrant
of three feet radius, lA^li/ g" north. Had we de-
termined its longitude, according to the daily lofs,
attributed at Macao to our time-keeper, No. 1§, it
would have been 1 18° 40' 8", that is 4' 32" lefs than
the refult of our lunar obfervations.
Before we fet fail, I thought it my duty to go
with M. de Langle, to make our acknowledgments
to the governor-general, for the difpatch with which
his orders had been executed ; and dill more parti-
cularly to the intendant, from whom we had eî<pc-
ricnced fo many marks of politenefs and friendfhip.
Having dilcharged thefe duties, we both took ad-
vantage of a refidence of forty-eight hours at M,
Sebir's, to vifit, either in a boat or a carriage, the
environs of Manilla. Though we faw no fuperb
houfes, parks, or gardevis, yet Nature unadorned is
here fo beautiful, that a fimple Indian village on
the bank of the river, or a houfe in the European
ftyle, furrounded by a few trees, afford a view far
more piduref^ue than that of our moft magnificent
manfions ; and the coldeft imagination cannot avoid
pourtraying to itfelf undifturbed happinefs fmiling
amidft this delightful (implicity. Almoft all the
Spaniards are accuilomed to quit their town refi-
dence immediately after Eafter, and to pafs the fea-
fon of the fcorching heats in the country. They
have not attempted to embellifh a country, which
has no need of the aids of art. A neat and fpacious
houfe, built on the edge of the water, and furnifhed
with the moft commodious baths, though deftitute
* See the explanation of the method of taking longitudes, in the
tables of the routes of our fliips, fi om Manilla to Kamtfchatka,
given by M. Dagelet, and inferted at the end of the fécond volume.
^^French Editor»
...^ ^ "i • •. -of
\l
\l
of
1787.*] ROUND THE WORLD. . ÎBgT
of viftas, avenues, or gardens, and only (haded by
fruit trees, forms the dwellings of the riehefl; citi-
zens ; and this country would be one of the moft
charming fpots in the world to live in, if a milder
government and fewer prejudices rendered the civil
liberty of the inhabitants more fecure. The fortifi-
cations of Manilla have been augmented by the go-
vernor-general, under the dirc6lion of Senor Sauz,
a fkilful engineer ; but the garrifon is far from nu-
merous, and confifts, in time of peace, of a finglc
regiment of infantry, compofcd of two battalions,
each comprehending a company of grenadiers, and
eight of fufileers: the two battalions forming to-
gether a body of 1 300 cfFeélive men. In this regi-
ment, which is compofcd of Mexicans, all the fol-
diers are of the colour of mulattoes, and it is aflerted
they are not inferior, either in valour or intelligence,
to European troops. There are alfo two companies
of artillery, commanded by a lieutenant colonel, each
compofcd of 80 men, whofe officers are a captain, a
lieutenant, an enfign, and a fupernumerary ; three
companies of dragoons who form a fquadron of 150
horfe, commanded by the oidcil of the three Cap-
tains, and laftly, a battalion of 1*200 militia, formerly
raifed and paid by a very rich Chinefe Meti, named
Tuaflbn, who was ennobled. All the foldiers of this
corps arc Chinefe Metis, do the fame duty in the
town as the regulars, and now receive the fame
pay, but they would be of little ufe in war. In cafe
of need 8000 militia might be raifed in a very (hort
time, divided into provincial battalion?, and com-
manded by Eropean officers. Each battalion has a
company of grenadiers. One of thefe companies
has been difciplined by a ferjeant, taken from the re-
giment at Manilla ; and the Spaniards, although
more prone to decry than pancgyrife the valour and
merit of the Indians, afîcrt that this company is in
no refpedl inferior to the regiment of Europe,
Vol. I. U The
.^J<^
IMAGE EVALUATION
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Hiotographic
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Corporation
33 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y, 14580
(716) 872-4503
^
fl^
6^
990 lA rkRov§is,*B TOYAftB [1787.
The Httle garrifon of Samboangan, in the iiland
of Mindaneo, is not taken fixxn that of the ifland of
Luoonia. Two corps, of 1 50 men each, have been
Ibrmed for the Mariana Iflands, and for that of Min«
éaaeo^ and theic corps are invariably appropriated to
thote colonies.
SMI> OF VOL» I.
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